Like some people say, " If I can help at least one person, I 'll feel like I made a contribution to my fellow man!) Now then on my '93 GMC Sierra 1500 it stared ticking on the way to the store this morning, I already know what it sounds like when it's a lifter. I then remembered what this old timer (no disrespect/was my friend) once told me, "Whenever those lifters start tapping, you need to pull of that valve cover, and make your adjustments. but remember when you take off the valve cover, and you try to adjust them, you going to have oil, spill on your engine. What you need to do, is go to the junkyard, find you a valve cover (same vehicle or the years compatible) if you want to, get both the covers, it wouldn't hurt, you'll have a spare one. Ok when you get home, get you a hack saw, of course everyone these days, have one of those handheld battery hacksaws, or I used my Ryobi reciprocating saw. What you need to do is to cut a window, on top of the cover, so you can adjust you valves/lifters. When you make you window, make sure that you don't cut to deep, just enough opening to see your lifters ( I think you all get the idea) Well I did this, and everything worked out great! No oil anywhere. Please, please be careful when you cut through the cover, either one of these saws is very dangerous. That's why I also say maybe just a hacksaw. Either way be careful!! I'm sorry I wrote a novel, hope this helps. Take care and God bless you all!
Dear Tony .. Your old friend is WRONG BRO . The ONLY WAY .. YOUR GOING TO HAVE OIL "SPILL OUT" all over your engine is if your oil returns are plugged up from really really poor engine maintenance because the ONLY way oil returns get plugged up is if nobody bothered to do timely oil changes ..what ever oil does get pumped up to the top can be easily handled using rocker clips that you temporarily install on the rocker arms that keep hot oil from spraying all over you and your headers ..But if you really wanna try something less invasive the next time your a quart of oil down try using some Marvel Mystery oil and just go about life and you might NOT have to life off your valve cover at all Bro .. Now you don't have to take my word for it I've only been building small block chevys since 1975 so what do I know .. Just try it and see ...let me know what happened ..
WOW, What a great idea! I’m just now learning how to quiet my lifters (or which ever one is the problem) so I’m taking in as much information as I can.
I was looking for reassurance that it's 1/4 turn after quiet, all the videos I ran across were overly scientific and required precision tools that many people around here don't have/need on a 30+ year old engine. Thank you for this video and your insight, very helpful! I always imagined a crows beak pecking on something really fast when they get to clackin haha, cheers!
On my engine 1/4 turn on my buddies 1/2 turn and on the person that wants to race me 3/4 turn for just that little bit of an edge and this is super old school how the service manuals said to do it for the 1963 shop service manual I used to own
Hey bro, congrats on showing an old school way. That is the basics that everyone should know, owning. That is a piece of history . I restore classic rides for a living so I know what I'm talking about. 1/4 turn is good for a 1 /4 mile drag race, your friend you would do 1/2 turn so you can be quicker, anyone else 3/4 LOL Depending of course on the set up you have. On my personal 87 R10 I'm running 1963, 461 double hump heads. I've read a lot of the reviews here, as for the oil issue I will get to that soon. First, there is nothing wrong with any lifters sticking...if it was it would've eaten your cam lobe up..... Meaning, you wouldn't have to worry about the normal ticking those heads always had. It's a Chevy clikity clack. It's cool! Its normal! You want to solve your problem with the oil you do this. Get you a m55a, not m55. The m55a, you can keep the same volume of oil in your oil pan but it creates about 20 psi more pressure, comparing to the pathetic stock oil pump we all inherited from buying Any Chevy stock!! It will keep your oil pressure at idle at about 40 , 45 Hi at around 60. Instead of barely 50 and 20 on idle. When engine is running temp. First cold crank will be higher at about70 ,75 psi ,GOOD. Cold lubrication, run a 15w40 oil. You can , if you want to start with a simple test. Get you a smaller filter instead of those BIG ph5 etc... Smaller filter , Less travel, equals more pressure. Do not put a HIGH volume and pressure oil pump, it will suck the stock oil pan dry when you're running at high rpm, and you wouldn't have to worry about oil pressure anymore😂 If you decide you want too, then you need a 7 quart oil pan. dont waste your time on that unless you are racing hard. Remember standard volume, high pressure . I hope this was helpful for you, and for anyone else that might read it. Just some more old school knowledge that I deal with everyday for anyone to add to their own✌😎
What would we do without folk like you thanks for taking the time out of your day putting in your input and teaching us something new and very informative I’m very appreciative of you good sir
You are suppose to Back the Rocker off until you hear the Clicking Noise then Tighten until the Noise Stops and then 1/4 of a Turn this is the way I was Taught.
THANKS man. Did a quick search - found 5 videos, yours was the best. Great camera angle, loved that you could actually HEAR the ticking start and then stop again - heading out to the garage now to adjust on my '67 Camaro SS small block. Just put new headers on with a magno flow exhaust, but all I can 'hear' is that damn ticking noise. THANK you.
Now that's the true way of getting your adjustments correct is when the engine is running. But the way I've done it is I've took oh wild covers and cut the top side of them and bubbling back down to the top of the head in that way there's no oil comes out unless you rip it up and shoot out the property. But that's the way I've done it for a long long time I'm not saving 5 years old all these other guys has got their way I'm black I'm like you you're a man I've been doing it I'm wondering if you're just wanted to adjust it and that is exactly the true way to find out if it's going to work enough. Sometimes you have old bad lifters that have to be replaced. And you need replace one to you need replace them all. Very good job you're doing.
Use a foot or 1 1/2 foot piece of a broom stick to listen to what's going on inside the engine, that works wonderfully. My brother who's deaf from loud explosions while he was in Afghanistan tuned his El Camino that way and he did it better then what I could ever have done and I have above average hearing. Just saying my friend. I would like to see your whole truck, I like older trucks like yours, I have a 1971 F100 I restored
My buddy did that but he putthe broom handle on the head and it slipped onto the end of the rocker and the broom hit him in the head bam bam bam ha ha ha!
If one must do it this way, get an old valve cover and cut out the top to where the rocker are stud and nut can just be accessed. After the chatter, give it a half turn.
The true old school way is to start the engine and turn the rocker down until you get a miss then back it off until the miss goes away then back it off 3/4 turn more. Done. Do them all that way and they will be perfect.
I know it's been 3 years 3 years too late but I thought I would give my two cents worth it looks like on number one intake I'm not for sure if it's intake or exhaust which one you're on.... Anyway back off until you hear clicking turn it in till it stops clicking and then go one quarter to halfway down. Do not I repeat do not turn it down one quarter or half way from it clicking.. I have performed hundreds of these valve adjustments while it's running on small block Chevy's over 30 YEARS..
Sir if I could contact you somehow. I have a few questions on re adjusting mine in my 1980 305. I tightened the rocker that was clicking. Well I was a dumbass and tightened all of them a quarter turn(on both side) and now my motor is having trouble running. So I back off a quarter turn on all of them, now I believe the exhaust valve on cylinder 3 is barely moving along with intake valve on cylinder 6. What do I need to do
@@alexanderbozeman5361 Need to get the engine warmed up, then adjust the rockers one at a time like he did. Slowly. That is the only way you will ever get it right. What you did was disturb the seat on the stud, which has stretched over the years of it running. You need to let it find its new seat. Basically, do what hes doing, and it should be fine. Unless the stud is pulling loose from the head (it happens).
Now that you loosened all of them then tightened them the 1/4 turn to stop the clock which is slack now you go back and tighten 3 more quarter turns to get them fine threads to get into the lifters 30% adjusted then you should start seeing some oil.. also if your not seeing a lot of oil have an oil can to lube everything moving especially around adjustable nuts it will flow down from there until your prime. A lot of mechanics think a quarter of a turn for slack is enough but your dealing with fine thread
Youre doing it the RIGHT WAY. FYI, all the other videos you will see are doing it wrong. The correct way to adjust any hydraulic lifter is zero lash and a one eighth turn.
I will tell you what it is since you dont know,, its a lifter getting stuck run some marvel mystery oil in the motor or some kind of treatment to free the lifter up because it is sticking it isnt the valve lash or the rocker makeing that tapping noise it is a lifter sticking! They are hydraulic lifters and a hydraulic lifter has a plunger assembly in the top of them when the oil pressure comes up it pressurizes the plunger area so it rises until it hits a lock pin keeping it from going any further it has small holes in it so the oil bleeds off slow causeing the lifter to collapse it acts as a plunger going up and down with oil going in and out causeing the pushrod to go up n down if them holes or a hole in the lifter gets cloged with grit from dirty oil it will not pump up fast and that causes the pushrod to bang and thats the noise your hearing, NOW u can replace the lifter by takeing it all apart OR u can simply do an oil change and ADD to the oil some treatment throu it like marvel mystery oil to free the sticky lifter up believe me it works evrything u just did in this video was pointless it was not any adjustment needed on the lash JUST put some marvel in it and drive the piss out of it and it will unstick maby right away or it might take a few days but it will unstick and sound quiet n purrr!!!!
THE ENGINE BUILDERS USE ONE HALF TURN FOR PERFORMANCE A STOCK ENGINE IS ONE FULL TURN. WHEN YOUR DONE ALL THE ROCKER STUDS SHOULD HAVE THE SAME NUMBER OF THREADS SHOWING OR WITH ROLLER ROCKERS THE ADJUSTING NUTS SHOULD BE EVEN ACCROSS THE ENTIRE HEAD. HUMAN ERROR IS YOUR ONLY ENEMY. CHECK YOUR WORK AND CHECK IT AGAIN. IF YOU HAVE SOME HIGHER THAN THE REST THE CAM WAS NOT COMPLETELY AT THE BOTTOM WHEN ADJUSTED JUST BRING THE HIGH ONES DOWN EVEN WITH THE REST.
Yea you got a 555 pump will hold up the slack i just done a 305 with a 555 pump pulled the cam and the bearins were bras showing on the bottom half and some slack in the timing chain the chain was new double roller and still running with good pressure
You may have a stopped up lifter or a pushrod hope you're taking it out and gets you some pipe cleaners like a smoking pot cleaners and you can turn them out by putting break cleaner on it or other stuff that you clean out gasoline rusta or old deposits usually that's what it is.
Hi I have a rebuilt 350 just did the 500 mile oil change. I wanted to tune my Edelbrock so I hooked up vacuum gauge and found my needle bouncing around between 15 and 20. I have also noticed a loose rocker arm noise. Could this be causing the issue? I also bought me a set of those clips from Mr.Gasket. Look forward to trying this method. I'm a novice to this but I love learning! 😎
i work at a off road shop and he's done it the best most efficient way. all you saying 1 half turn this or that. that's for your motor. everyone is different. and i like to go a eighth past. barely past clatter stop. but it's motor preference. if you take time to adjust therm then drive it. then adjust little more until you find that peak spot. then check them with feeler in a week check again.
really. so when they're pumped up checking for 0 lash. you cant use a feeler gauge? i mean i don't. but by the gm manual it says it helps to find proper lash . looking at it now. "with lifter pumped up using manual oil prime tool. and piston is at TDC on compression stroke. tighten rocker nut until proper lash is achieved. using a feeler guage with manufacturers specifications for thickness of guage. then tighten 1/2 turn. turn crank to continue to next cylinder " coukdnt take picture of paragraph.
Michael Miller don't need a feeler Guage for hydraulic lifters! Only on solid lifters.... but you can go ahead and use a feeler Guage on a hydro lifter if you want too the world is your pickle 😊
Wow he said losen then go 1/4, and the ones that are tight are the problem, the tight ones are probably sitting on a lobe and opening a valve, I'm watching like a kid watches a scary movie with his hands over his eyes waiting for something to blow up
Maybe I missed something. I did hear a difference in any direction. Before or after. I saw a few videos on this topic, I have an idea of how to do this. Have never done it myself yet.
Its tapping because your cam is wearing out and the lifter cant take up the slack anymore, chevy has small lifters which are inferior to the larger FORD and Mopar ones, they rotate easier making the engine last longer, also dont use Pennzoil, switch to Castrol gtx 20 50 and your engine will last over 65 years, my friends 292 Ford still runs great since 1956.😊
I thought mine was bad until I heard this one! I’m by no means a mechanic but I can hear, and when he did what he did it didn’t seem to make anything better
did the procedure fix your engine problems? I'm having an intermittent valve tick that happens only when I'm on the freeway for about 15minutes, then when I pull off the freeway and the rpms go down for awhile it stops. So I havn't had a good chance to pinpoint the noise with ye olde trusty metal pipe yet lol. I've heard another method to adjust the valves is to take off the covers, loosen them, and then snug them just to where there is no play in the rockers
Try some zinc oil additive. New oil is really good, but newer oil has no zinc. You can run Delo or other diesel oil, but adding zinc is just as good. The clearance on older engines is loose compared to modern engines. Delo, Rotella is great for older small and bb's. Lots of builders swear by diesel oil.
Abraham S. Hey man! I wouldn’t know! To be honest. Sometimes the way to adjust them is using shims between the rocker and valve. It all depends what type of lifters you have.
Dude, of COURSE some are going to be loose and some tight! 1/2 of the valves are open(ing) at any given time and there's going to be tension on them!! Whoever told you 1/4 turn gave you bad info. Specs call for 1 full turn AFTER zero lash. When you back them off until they clatter you tighten them until they just shut up, that is zero lash. After zero lash go at least 1/2 turn more. Like I said, 1 turn is what specs call for, many like to go only 1/2 turn. I personally feel that 1/2turn is too loose, I usually go 3/4 turn after zero lash and call it a nice in-between.
Hey just wondering if the tapping sound was found out? I have a newer gen SBC with a similar sound: ruclips.net/video/iK2Yq33GbYc/видео.html it sounds a bit more "wooshy" than yours but its hard to say. I haven't been able to isolate it yet... I'm about to do this adjustment on my car.
Mine was just valvetrain issue, I had to adjust all my rockers and my truck ran fine after that, I haven’t adjusted it ever since and it runs real good. I saw your video and it does sound like valvetrain too. Have you tried using a hose...putting one end on your ear and the other in the engine block and checking where the noise could come from?
@@NeedMyChevy yup I got a stethoscope but was still unable to pinpoint it with the valve covers still on. It sounds more internal, like it's from the block. I'll get the covers of and check for bent rods, then do the adjustment.
Sadly from 2030 on all combustion cars including classics will be banned from public streets in entire EU and Scandinavia :-( In Germany the Green Peoples Party gave order to shorten fuel supply from 2025 on by reducing all conventional fuel stations to only one state operated central gas station per city or county. Now they even want to slow down all the gas pumps from 20 litre per minute to 2 litre per minute...From 2027 on in the EU certain car spare parts will be banned too....as exhaust systems, turbo chargers and even some engine and gearbox oils...California and New York will do the same from 2027 on.... So no investments should be done in oil burning cars any longer....They even created a new kind of crime here, called emissions and smoke crime.
I used myst oil and 10/30 in my 83 Mercedes. It ran quiet as a kitten. I drained it and tried lucas with 10/40 now I have one lifter tapping. I guess I need.to drain it all and try the myst oil and thin oil again. I thought lucas would be better with thicker oil. Am I wrong here. I hate to drain all that oil out it takes 8.5 quarts.
@@ricardobooker1704 using a heavier oil can be bad. You may not get the lubrication that is needed because it doesnt flow like the recommended oil viscosity from the manufacturer. Use the proper weight and avoid engine damage. If you have excessive oil clearances as in a high mileage engine, then a higher viscosity may help control the flow and raise your oil pressure.
Although could wait until engine was little warmer valves always tight from factory most important thing worry about is slowly unload valve not fast like that can bend pushrods supposed to wait 6 8 seconds before untighting after first throw same tightenting they will fill oil pressure if cinch down to fast bend push rods posable seen it done but
@@trxtech3010 The hydraulic lifter spins on the cam. When you twist the bolt it adds force that can stop the lifter from spinning on the cam. Your socket can also push on the rocker arm making it hard to run. Fuck off, trx tech. Your tech is trash anyways.
Quick update here guys, truck is still running after that fix lol. All these negative comments about don’t do this or don’t do that didn’t really apply to me. Not gonna say they won’t apply to you.
bruh i know this is an old video... but you aint getting no oil to the rocker arms.. shut that damn engine off... next time lower the rpm until the engine bearly runs... 1/4 turn after tapping is good...
HAHA you have bigger problems than valve lash. You have no oil delivery to the valve train. Take an oil pressure reading and see if your oil pump is weak. One reason why your not getting rid of the ticking noise. Oh and I love that your giving mechanical advice when your using baling wire for your $400 aluminum radiator.
What is it with these narcissist noobs on youtube that have to show you that they discovered something new but still don't know what they're doing yet.
So out of the blue you with all your many many years building chevy small blocks decided to "adjust a few" on your chevy 350 inch motor ? CAN I ASK YOU WHY You thought is was necessary to "adjust a few" lifter's on an Hyd cam motor ? The reason I ask is if they have become noisy to the point of being loud enough that you hear them there is a reason it happened and I'm willing to bet you anything it's NOT because they went out of Adjustment . So Mr Master Mechanic ...I would take some advice from people who have been on earth a bit longer than you and rethink your next move..Or you can be naive & foolish and think you know better ...It's all you ...
Don't ever adjust your valves like this!!! you are taking years of life off of your cam this is one of the worst things you can do to a flat tappet cam
This is for hydraulic lifters. You can adjust solid lifters like that on some cars if you know what you're doing. You loosen the lock nut and stick your feeler gauge in there and you can get them perfect, really quick. Sometimes you need a 3rd hand depending on the lock nut.
ON A STOCK ENGINE ITS ONE FULL TURN PAST ZERO LASH. YOU GOT NO OIL BECAUSE YOU HAVEN'T ENOUGH PRELOAD. I WISH YOU BACK YARD MECHANICS WOULD STOP MAKING THESE VIDEOS. FROM A 30 YR. VETERAN OF HOT RODS AND RESTORATIONS. AND A MULTITUDE OF AUTO REPAIRS. THE FIRST TOOL IN YOUR BOX IS A BRAIN DON'T STOP ASKING QUESTIONS DO YOUR RESERCH ON EACH JOB.YOU NEVER KNOW ENOUGH. SCHOOL EVERY DAY.
Like some people say, " If I can help at least one person, I 'll feel like I made a contribution to my fellow man!) Now then on my '93 GMC Sierra 1500 it stared ticking on the way to the store this morning, I already know what it sounds like when it's a lifter. I then remembered what this old timer (no disrespect/was my friend) once told me, "Whenever those lifters start tapping, you need to pull of that valve cover, and make your adjustments. but remember when you take off the valve cover, and you try to adjust them, you going to have oil, spill on your engine. What you need to do, is go to the junkyard, find you a valve cover (same vehicle or the years compatible) if you want to, get both the covers, it wouldn't hurt, you'll have a spare one. Ok when you get home, get you a hack saw, of course everyone these days, have one of those handheld battery hacksaws, or I used my Ryobi reciprocating saw. What you need to do is to cut a window, on top of the cover, so you can adjust you valves/lifters. When you make you window, make sure that you don't cut to deep, just enough opening to see your lifters ( I think you all get the idea) Well I did this, and everything worked out great! No oil anywhere. Please, please be careful when you cut through the cover, either one of these saws is very dangerous. That's why I also say maybe just a hacksaw. Either way be careful!! I'm sorry I wrote a novel, hope this helps. Take care and God bless you all!
Thank you for that, I had oil all over the place, will cut one today....
Heck I actually appreciate both of you guy's. Thanks
Dear Tony .. Your old friend is WRONG BRO . The ONLY WAY .. YOUR GOING TO HAVE OIL "SPILL OUT" all over your engine is if your oil returns are plugged up from really really poor engine maintenance because the ONLY way oil returns get plugged up is if nobody bothered to do timely oil changes ..what ever oil does get pumped up to the top can be easily handled using rocker clips that you temporarily install on the rocker arms that keep hot oil from spraying all over you and your headers ..But if you really wanna try something less invasive the next time your a quart of oil down try using some Marvel Mystery oil and just go about life and you might NOT have to life off your valve cover at all Bro .. Now you don't have to take my word for it I've only been building small block chevys since 1975 so what do I know .. Just try it and see ...let me know what happened ..
WOW, What a great idea! I’m just now learning how to quiet my lifters (or which ever one is the problem) so I’m taking in as much information as I can.
Very helpful. Thank you
I was looking for reassurance that it's 1/4 turn after quiet, all the videos I ran across were overly scientific and required precision tools that many people around here don't have/need on a 30+ year old engine. Thank you for this video and your insight, very helpful! I always imagined a crows beak pecking on something really fast when they get to clackin haha, cheers!
1/2 to 3/4. 1/4 is not enough on SBC. It will rattle like crazy when cold.
On my engine 1/4 turn on my buddies 1/2 turn and on the person that wants to race me 3/4 turn for just that little bit of an edge and this is super old school how the service manuals said to do it for the 1963 shop service manual I used to own
Hey bro, congrats on showing an old school way.
That is the basics that everyone should know, owning. That is a piece of history .
I restore classic rides for a living so I know what I'm talking about.
1/4 turn is good for a 1 /4 mile drag race, your friend you would do 1/2 turn so you can be quicker, anyone else 3/4 LOL
Depending of course on the set up you have.
On my personal 87 R10 I'm running 1963, 461 double hump heads.
I've read a lot of the reviews here, as for the oil issue I will get to that soon. First, there is nothing wrong with any lifters sticking...if it was it would've eaten your cam lobe up.....
Meaning, you wouldn't have to worry about the normal ticking those heads always had. It's a Chevy clikity clack. It's cool! Its normal!
You want to solve your problem with the oil you do this.
Get you a m55a, not m55.
The m55a, you can keep the same volume of oil in your oil pan but it creates about 20 psi more pressure, comparing to the pathetic stock oil pump we all inherited from buying Any Chevy stock!!
It will keep your oil pressure at idle at about 40 , 45
Hi at around 60.
Instead of barely 50 and 20 on idle. When engine is running temp. First cold crank will be higher at about70 ,75 psi ,GOOD. Cold lubrication, run a 15w40 oil.
You can , if you want to start with a simple test. Get you a smaller filter instead of those BIG ph5 etc...
Smaller filter , Less travel, equals more pressure.
Do not put a HIGH volume and pressure oil pump, it will suck the stock oil pan dry when you're running at high rpm, and you wouldn't have to worry about oil pressure anymore😂
If you decide you want too, then you need a 7 quart oil pan. dont waste your time on that unless you are racing hard.
Remember standard volume, high pressure .
I hope this was helpful for you, and for anyone else that might read it.
Just some more old school knowledge that I deal with everyday for anyone to add to their own✌😎
What would we do without folk like you thanks for taking the time out of your day putting in your input and teaching us something new and very informative I’m very appreciative of you good sir
Cool dude
You are suppose to Back the Rocker off until you hear the Clicking Noise then Tighten until the Noise Stops and then 1/4 of a Turn this is the way I was Taught.
You can go 3/4 of a turn past 0 lash. That's when the tapping stops, 0 lash, the 1/2 to 3/4 turn is then your preload.
1/4 of a turn tighter or looser?
THANKS man. Did a quick search - found 5 videos, yours was the best. Great camera angle, loved that you could actually HEAR the ticking start and then stop again - heading out to the garage now to adjust on my '67 Camaro SS small block. Just put new headers on with a magno flow exhaust, but all I can 'hear' is that damn ticking noise. THANK you.
Make sure your Camaro has a hydraulic cam and lifters! If it's a solid lifter cam and you adjust this way, your valves wont close completely!!
I would go 1/2 turn past zero lash back in the day but that's just me. Good video!
NOPE, only a 32nd to 1/8 th of a turn
@@EarlGuyton425 nope he’s right
Now that's the true way of getting your adjustments correct is when the engine is running. But the way I've done it is I've took oh wild covers and cut the top side of them and bubbling back down to the top of the head in that way there's no oil comes out unless you rip it up and shoot out the property. But that's the way I've done it for a long long time I'm not saving 5 years old all these other guys has got their way I'm black I'm like you you're a man I've been doing it I'm wondering if you're just wanted to adjust it and that is exactly the true way to find out if it's going to work enough. Sometimes you have old bad lifters that have to be replaced. And you need replace one to you need replace them all. Very good job you're doing.
Use a foot or 1 1/2 foot piece of a broom stick to listen to what's going on inside the engine, that works wonderfully. My brother who's deaf from loud explosions while he was in Afghanistan tuned his El Camino that way and he did it better then what I could ever have done and I have above average hearing. Just saying my friend. I would like to see your whole truck, I like older trucks like yours, I have a 1971 F100 I restored
My buddy did that but he putthe broom handle on the head and it slipped onto the end of the rocker and the broom hit him in the head bam bam bam ha ha ha!
Better yet, get a mechanic's stethoscope. They aren't expensive, and will help so much to isolate the problem!!
@@kevinshiley9061 I have one but it's back at the airport when I'm working on customers airplanes lol
Thank your Brother for US !
i just use a long extension and put the female part against my ear. amazing how u can chase a sound down so primitively.
Clack…no clack…shut off…3/4 turn…PERFECT!!!
😊
If one must do it this way, get an old valve cover and cut out the top to where the rocker are stud and nut can just be accessed. After the chatter, give it a half turn.
Everybody else: *worries about getting oil everywhere
Our engines: "dont worry bro, i got you, aint gotta worry about no mess"
Haha this is funny. You know it’s been 6 years since I made this and the truck still runs fine. Everyone else is worried about it but not my truck
@@NeedMyChevy that's badass, them SBC run for a long ass time, sad i let go of the Camaro i did this on 😢😂
The true old school way is to start the engine and turn the rocker down until you get a miss then back it off until the miss goes away then back it off 3/4 turn more. Done. Do them all that way and they will be perfect.
All you've got to do is feel of the rockers with it running and you can quickly find the ones that are ticking! I do it all the time.
I know it's been 3 years 3 years too late but I thought I would give my two cents worth it looks like on number one intake I'm not for sure if it's intake or exhaust which one you're on.... Anyway back off until you hear clicking turn it in till it stops clicking and then go one quarter to halfway down. Do not I repeat do not turn it down one quarter or half way from it clicking.. I have performed hundreds of these valve adjustments while it's running on small block Chevy's over 30 YEARS..
Sir if I could contact you somehow. I have a few questions on re adjusting mine in my 1980 305. I tightened the rocker that was clicking. Well I was a dumbass and tightened all of them a quarter turn(on both side) and now my motor is having trouble running. So I back off a quarter turn on all of them, now I believe the exhaust valve on cylinder 3 is barely moving along with intake valve on cylinder 6. What do I need to do
@@alexanderbozeman5361 Need to get the engine warmed up, then adjust the rockers one at a time like he did. Slowly. That is the only way you will ever get it right. What you did was disturb the seat on the stud, which has stretched over the years of it running. You need to let it find its new seat. Basically, do what hes doing, and it should be fine. Unless the stud is pulling loose from the head (it happens).
@@wizzlestick111 That was mighty kind of you to reply and offer help. I admire and thank you. :)
Now that you loosened all of them then tightened them the 1/4 turn to stop the clock which is slack now you go back and tighten 3 more quarter turns to get them fine threads to get into the lifters 30% adjusted then you should start seeing some oil.. also if your not seeing a lot of oil have an oil can to lube everything moving especially around adjustable nuts it will flow down from there until your prime. A lot of mechanics think a quarter of a turn for slack is enough but your dealing with fine thread
I used to do 3/4 turn on hydraulic lifters
I"ve got the 60 degree V6 chevy and 3/4 turn was too much. 1/4 turn on the hydraulic lifters is golden for my engine.
Connecting a vacuum gauge will also give you important info as you adjust. If you tighten too much, you will see that on the gauge.
maybe an oil change then i would have to check oil pressure.you should have had oil shooting everywhere.and yes,its still ticking.
Youre doing it the RIGHT WAY. FYI, all the other videos you will see are doing it wrong. The correct way to adjust any hydraulic lifter is zero lash and a one eighth turn.
you should have oil squirting out of tops of those push rods,may be part of your noise,lack of lubrication
It wont squirt out until it revs.
Take a little while
Takes time oil heat up
use Valvoline VR1 that's the only oil I use for my 350 in my nova. It has the zinc you need.
Or Lucas Classic Car Oil 👍
@@KGisthenameThat's what I use in my 3 1978 Regals
@grandam Yrp me too it is amazing stuff. It even made my old girls engine sound quiet and healthy. I 100% stand behind their oil friends.
I will tell you what it is since you dont know,, its a lifter getting stuck run some marvel mystery oil in the motor or some kind of treatment to free the lifter up because it is sticking it isnt the valve lash or the rocker makeing that tapping noise it is a lifter sticking! They are hydraulic lifters and a hydraulic lifter has a plunger assembly in the top of them when the oil pressure comes up it pressurizes the plunger area so it rises until it hits a lock pin keeping it from going any further it has small holes in it so the oil bleeds off slow causeing the lifter to collapse it acts as a plunger going up and down with oil going in and out causeing the pushrod to go up n down if them holes or a hole in the lifter gets cloged with grit from dirty oil it will not pump up fast and that causes the pushrod to bang and thats the noise your hearing, NOW u can replace the lifter by takeing it all apart OR u can simply do an oil change and ADD to the oil some treatment throu it like marvel mystery oil to free the sticky lifter up believe me it works evrything u just did in this video was pointless it was not any adjustment needed on the lash JUST put some marvel in it and drive the piss out of it and it will unstick maby right away or it might take a few days but it will unstick and sound quiet n purrr!!!!
It was ticking because chevy has crappy small lifters compared to FORD and mopar, which spin better and last forever if you use good oil not Pennzoil,
I think your right. When he loosened number 7 you can hear the thoomp noise when the lifter sprung open
@@jackrohde4709 except pennzoil has zink in it witch is good 👍
THE ENGINE BUILDERS USE ONE HALF TURN FOR PERFORMANCE A STOCK ENGINE IS ONE FULL TURN. WHEN YOUR DONE ALL THE ROCKER STUDS SHOULD HAVE THE SAME NUMBER OF THREADS SHOWING OR WITH ROLLER ROCKERS THE ADJUSTING NUTS SHOULD BE EVEN ACCROSS THE ENTIRE HEAD. HUMAN ERROR IS YOUR ONLY ENEMY. CHECK YOUR WORK AND CHECK IT AGAIN. IF YOU HAVE SOME HIGHER THAN THE REST THE CAM WAS NOT COMPLETELY AT THE BOTTOM WHEN ADJUSTED JUST BRING THE HIGH ONES DOWN EVEN WITH THE REST.
loosen one until it chatters. the. slowly tighten it until the chatter stops.. then do your adjustment.
Do the adjustments slowly.
Could be a lifter getting weak. Off topic but I was told to use big air filters,
Yea you got a 555 pump will hold up the slack i just done a 305 with a 555 pump pulled the cam and the bearins were bras showing on the bottom half and some slack in the timing chain the chain was new double roller and still running with good pressure
And your gadge must be wrong acording to your lifters said non at 60lb your inerfinder would be covered and thats a fact
Be aware that you. Could have a worn rocker ball or the rocker stud could back out if it is the presses in type.
What chevy 350 does best EASY TO WORK ON WITH MINIMAL TOOLS .
You may have a stopped up lifter or a pushrod hope you're taking it out and gets you some pipe cleaners like a smoking pot cleaners and you can turn them out by putting break cleaner on it or other stuff that you clean out gasoline rusta or old deposits usually that's what it is.
Hi I have a rebuilt 350 just did the 500 mile oil change. I wanted to tune my Edelbrock so I hooked up vacuum gauge and found my needle bouncing around between 15 and 20. I have also noticed a loose rocker arm noise. Could this be causing the issue? I also bought me a set of those clips from Mr.Gasket. Look forward to trying this method. I'm a novice to this but I love learning! 😎
i work at a off road shop and he's done it the best most efficient way. all you saying 1 half turn this or that. that's for your motor. everyone is different. and i like to go a eighth past. barely past clatter stop. but it's motor preference. if you take time to adjust therm then drive it. then adjust little more until you find that peak spot. then check them with feeler in a week check again.
There is no feeler Gage adjustment with HYD lifters dude your off in the weeds
really. so when they're pumped up checking for 0 lash. you cant use a feeler gauge? i mean i don't. but by the gm manual it says it helps to find proper lash . looking at it now. "with lifter pumped up using manual oil prime tool. and piston is at TDC on compression stroke. tighten rocker nut until proper lash is achieved. using a feeler guage with manufacturers specifications for thickness of guage. then tighten 1/2 turn. turn crank to continue to next cylinder " coukdnt take picture of paragraph.
Michael Miller don't need a feeler Guage for hydraulic lifters! Only on solid lifters.... but you can go ahead and use a feeler Guage on a hydro lifter if you want too the world is your pickle 😊
Wow he said losen then go 1/4, and the ones that are tight are the problem, the tight ones are probably sitting on a lobe and opening a valve, I'm watching like a kid watches a scary movie with his hands over his eyes waiting for something to blow up
NOTHING WRONG WITH THAT WAY!!!!!
Does it matter witch one you do first can i just work from front to back on both sides?
you should probably be worried about why there isnt oil shooting all over that card board
Paul Bowers There won't be until he revs it.
At idle its ok.
When was the last oil change? That crap was dirty.
Why you didn't do all of them
Maybe I missed something. I did hear a difference in any direction. Before or after.
I saw a few videos on this topic, I have an idea of how to do this.
Have never done it myself yet.
"These were fucking tight!"
(Like #420.)
Its tapping because your cam is wearing out and the lifter cant take up the slack anymore, chevy has small lifters which are inferior to the larger FORD and Mopar ones, they rotate easier making the engine last longer, also dont use Pennzoil, switch to Castrol gtx 20 50 and your engine will last over 65 years, my friends 292 Ford still runs great since 1956.😊
I thought mine was bad until I heard this one! I’m by no means a mechanic but I can hear, and when he did what he did it didn’t seem to make anything better
That’s a bunch of time I’ll never get back….
half turn once past lash
It still runs loud bro so im not sure what that did.
Did you get the ticking to go away? Was it a bad adjustment or a bad lifter?
i didnt think u losen it till u hear nose then tighten it . the nose supposed to stop then tighten it ?
lol , just do it the right way so it will run right .
I would have set them all to be sure.
Yeah, he still had a loose one when he 'finished'. I was waiting for him to get to it.
did the procedure fix your engine problems? I'm having an intermittent valve tick that happens only when I'm on the freeway for about 15minutes, then when I pull off the freeway and the rpms go down for awhile it stops. So I havn't had a good chance to pinpoint the noise with ye olde trusty metal pipe yet lol. I've heard another method to adjust the valves is to take off the covers, loosen them, and then snug them just to where there is no play in the rockers
Try some zinc oil additive. New oil is really good, but newer oil has no zinc. You can run Delo or other diesel oil, but adding zinc is just as good. The clearance on older engines is loose compared to modern engines. Delo, Rotella is great for older small and bb's. Lots of builders swear by diesel oil.
Would you say this procedure would work on a 83 ranger v6?, just to do n adjustment on them.
Abraham S. Hey man! I wouldn’t know! To be honest. Sometimes the way to adjust them is using shims between the rocker and valve. It all depends what type of lifters you have.
This is how I've always done it.
Why you didn't do all of them....wouldn't that be being more sure
But this helped a lot
Best look it up in a service Manuel
All Chevrolet hydraulic value adjuments
Still had a lifter tick.
Solid lifter use a feeler gauge.
We're going to adjust device you need to do a mode not just number one and number 7 adjust the model
that thing was still tickin like hell! try a half or 3/4 turn next time.
😂😂😂😂😂
you need to clean the engine or put a new oil pump in. that is no oil flow at all.
Did you check other side
uk Ghost yep, it was better
I’ve tried them all , this is fool proof , I’m just saying
Oil pressure?
There should be oil flying everywhere
Dude, of COURSE some are going to be loose and some tight! 1/2 of the valves are open(ing) at any given time and there's going to be tension on them!! Whoever told you 1/4 turn gave you bad info. Specs call for 1 full turn AFTER zero lash. When you back them off until they clatter you tighten them until they just shut up, that is zero lash. After zero lash go at least 1/2 turn more. Like I said, 1 turn is what specs call for, many like to go only 1/2 turn. I personally feel that 1/2turn is too loose, I usually go 3/4 turn after zero lash and call it a nice in-between.
Hey just wondering if the tapping sound was found out? I have a newer gen SBC with a similar sound:
ruclips.net/video/iK2Yq33GbYc/видео.html
it sounds a bit more "wooshy" than yours but its hard to say. I haven't been able to isolate it yet... I'm about to do this adjustment on my car.
Mine was just valvetrain issue, I had to adjust all my rockers and my truck ran fine after that, I haven’t adjusted it ever since and it runs real good. I saw your video and it does sound like valvetrain too. Have you tried using a hose...putting one end on your ear and the other in the engine block and checking where the noise could come from?
@@NeedMyChevy yup I got a stethoscope but was still unable to pinpoint it with the valve covers still on. It sounds more internal, like it's from the block. I'll get the covers of and check for bent rods, then do the adjustment.
@@BCToby alright man good luck! Let me know what you find! Share the knowledge!
Sadly from 2030 on all combustion cars including classics will be banned
from public streets in entire EU and Scandinavia :-( In Germany the
Green Peoples Party gave order to shorten fuel supply from 2025 on by
reducing all conventional fuel stations to only one state operated
central gas station per city or county. Now they even want to slow down
all the gas pumps from 20 litre per minute to 2 litre per minute...From
2027 on in the EU certain car spare parts will be banned too....as
exhaust systems, turbo chargers and even some engine and gearbox
oils...California and New York will do the same from 2027 on.... So no
investments should be done in oil burning cars any longer....They even
created a new kind of crime here, called emissions and smoke crime.
Who put those so dam tight
is it me or us that a seriously big hose
push down on it with the wrench
Clogged oil Whole whats a good method to Clean
Its not clogged but its worn out on the cam lobe, you can use marvel mystery oil.
I used myst oil and 10/30 in my 83 Mercedes. It ran quiet as a kitten. I drained it and tried lucas with 10/40 now I have one lifter tapping. I guess I need.to drain it all and try the myst oil and thin oil again. I thought lucas would be better with thicker oil. Am I wrong here. I hate to drain all that oil out it takes 8.5 quarts.
@@ricardobooker1704 using a heavier oil can be bad. You may not get the lubrication that is needed because it doesnt flow like the recommended oil viscosity from the manufacturer. Use the proper weight and avoid engine damage. If you have excessive oil clearances as in a high mileage engine, then a higher viscosity may help control the flow and raise your oil pressure.
No oil pressure buddy
It doesnt squirt until it runs. It would be locked up if it disnt have oil pressure.
Did this work out for you in the long run?
Yes, truck ram so much better and it still runs strong
never adjust the valves with the engine running your taking years of life off your cam GM has a tech bulliten that says never do this
Dude shut the fuck up. How does that "Take years off the cam" ??? It literally would not hurt anything
No it does not
Although could wait until engine was little warmer valves always tight from factory most important thing worry about is slowly unload valve not fast like that can bend pushrods supposed to wait 6 8 seconds before untighting after first throw same tightenting they will fill oil pressure if cinch down to fast bend push rods posable seen it done but
@@trxtech3010 The hydraulic lifter spins on the cam. When you twist the bolt it adds force that can stop the lifter from spinning on the cam. Your socket can also push on the rocker arm making it hard to run. Fuck off, trx tech. Your tech is trash anyways.
Quick update here guys, truck is still running after that fix lol. All these negative comments about don’t do this or don’t do that didn’t really apply to me. Not gonna say they won’t apply to you.
whats the 5.8 looks like ?
IT IS A STUCK LIFTER! STOP FKN WITH THE VALVE LASH AND ROCKER ARMS! Read my other comment if u want the tick to stop!
Cuado est prendido
bruh i know this is an old video... but you aint getting no oil to the rocker arms.. shut that damn engine off... next time lower the rpm until the engine bearly runs... 1/4 turn after tapping is good...
Chris Craft oh the engine did have oil coming up. After this video the cardboard was wet with oil.
cool, did you ever get it running right?
Chris Craft yep! After that it ran really good. But now it's down for front suspension work. I may have another email about that
Is it still running.
HAHA you have bigger problems than valve lash. You have no oil delivery to the valve train. Take an oil pressure reading and see if your oil pump is weak. One reason why your not getting rid of the ticking noise. Oh and I love that your giving mechanical advice when your using baling wire for your $400 aluminum radiator.
It could be a bad oil pump and bad bearings. Never just replace the oil pump.
Its a leather not wire, also hes getting good oil flow at that low of rpm.
Oil is not going to spill out
Actually it should.
worn out cam bearings no oil pressure
rachel freeman hmmm, I wonder why I had 60lbs of oil pressure on the gauge and why the truck is still running?
NeedMyChevy your gauge must be wrong.. 60psi and oil would be squirting.
You skipped the third rocket and didn't go back to it smh
What is it with these narcissist noobs on youtube that have to show you that they discovered something new but still don't know what they're doing yet.
So out of the blue you with all your many many years building chevy small blocks decided to "adjust a few" on your chevy 350 inch motor ? CAN I ASK YOU WHY You thought is was necessary to "adjust a few" lifter's on an Hyd cam motor ? The reason I ask is if they have become noisy to the point of being loud enough that you hear them there is a reason it happened and I'm willing to bet you anything it's NOT because they went out of Adjustment . So Mr Master Mechanic ...I would take some advice from people who have been on earth a bit longer than you and rethink your next move..Or you can be naive & foolish and think you know better ...It's all you ...
I like how you think.
It's his truck not yours and yes that's on him. Blah blah blah I've been on earth a bit longer boo hoo😂😅😅😂😅😂😅😂
the engine is actually 349 cu
Don't ever adjust your valves like this!!! you are taking years of life off of your cam this is one of the worst things you can do to a flat tappet cam
This is for hydraulic lifters. You can adjust solid lifters like that on some cars if you know what you're doing. You loosen the lock nut and stick your feeler gauge in there and you can get them perfect, really quick. Sometimes you need a 3rd hand depending on the lock nut.
BEEN AJUSTING VALVES LIKE THIS FOR OVER 35 YEAR'S WORKS EVERY TIME.
ON A STOCK ENGINE ITS ONE FULL TURN PAST ZERO LASH. YOU GOT NO OIL BECAUSE YOU HAVEN'T ENOUGH PRELOAD. I WISH YOU BACK YARD MECHANICS WOULD STOP MAKING THESE VIDEOS. FROM A 30 YR. VETERAN OF HOT RODS AND RESTORATIONS. AND A MULTITUDE OF AUTO REPAIRS. THE FIRST TOOL IN YOUR BOX IS A BRAIN DON'T STOP ASKING QUESTIONS DO YOUR RESERCH ON EACH JOB.YOU NEVER KNOW ENOUGH. SCHOOL EVERY DAY.
You have no clue !
Turn motor on?
Spark plug cable? Wow
1/4 of a turn.
Used to doing it old school way on Chevy 350's, any suggestions for a 95 gmc 4cyl? #4 loose as hell, just bought it.