Once you notice the black rubber lower window trim is painted on the door, you can't un-see it. They taped off the rear quarter glass trim, but not the doors... Hmmm
You can see the imperfections in the phone light, it looks like it’s bumpy, overall though besides the obvious lack of attention to detail it doesn’t seem to bad and on camera from distance it looks great.
@@gundamxzero3 Well, my sister has a 2008 outlander in silver, never been garaged, exposed to the strong southern California sun now for 14 years, no clear coat failure anywhere. Still looks great. I hand wax it for her once a year. Let's see Honda and Toyota do that. All thier clear coat goes to shit around 7, 8 years here.
@@johnfranklin5277 you must take great care of it. Waxing goes a long way. I know some colors are better than others. I heard the early 2000's yellow and red lancers had really bad paint jobs
If you can see the "pitted" imperfection but cannot feel it through the clear coat, it's likely that the base coat is the layer that has a bit of orange peel. Hope that helps, looks pretty good overall!
From what I saw on camera that is solvent pop. Pretty common with these kinds of places. The move them out in the sun, or put heat lamps on it before the solvent has time to evaporate
I had my NB painted by MAACO 3 years ago. I paid $1200 for single stage plus a new driver side front fender. Overall it has held up perfectly fine. The main imperfections are mild orange peel, a couple of spots where it looks like dust got on the paint, and some poor masking around the window trims. There was also some overspray on my wheels but I was able to get that off with some lacquer thinner. Overall, it looks perfect from 10 feet away and I’m the only person who even notices the imperfections. Other people say it looks good as new. For anyone looking to get a MAACO paint job it’s important to know that somebody else’s experience isn’t necessarily applicable to you, considering there are hundreds of locations all staffed by different people, and the person spraying the car will have the biggest impact on the result. Definitely look at reviews for your location shop over the experience of someone on the other side of the country.
I took my first truck to maaco after doing months of body work. I paid for their most expensive package it was around $3600 back then. The entire truck was d/a down to 350 then wet sanded down to 600. The paint surface was perfect. When i got my truck back it had terrible orange peel, was the wrong color, and started bubbling before 30 days because they A. Didnt clean the truck before painting it and B. Didnt put on a primer coat which i specifically paid for. When i called them out about it the owner got in my face and told me it was my prep work that caused it, my above and beyond prep work caused it because i used a primer to cover up some bare metal in a spot that wasnt even fucking bubbling. I basically told the guy if he didnt get out of my face things were gonna get out of hand and that if that was in fact the cause the coat of primer i paid to be put on shouldve 100% dealt with that issue. Then he argued that they sprayed primer so i litterally had to go out to the truck and peel a piece of bubbling paint off to prove to this asshole that they never sprayed primer. So then he told me to tape off the areas that were bubbling and he would have them fixed so i did. Then they let my truck sit outside in the sun (its the beginning of summer) and the masking take glued to the paint and they ripped the paint off my truck then called me and told me to "come get my fucking truck" and told me it was my fault because i used the wrong type of masking tape... This is knowledge even an idiot can comprehend, if you leave an adhesive in the sun/heat what does it do? It hardens. I had to go into the shop and tear the owner up and told him if he didnt fix my truck then i was headed back to town to see a lawyer and he ended up giving in and redoing the whole truck and it finally came out right, with the color, primer, and the amount of clear coat i paid for. Moral of the story if youre gonna get a car painted send it somewhere more professional and spend the money cuz if you want to save money, wrap is inexpensive, easy diy, and requires a lot less prep work.
If Maaco is going to use excuses based on the vehicle's condition when they take it over to do their "magic", they should note all of that in writing and explain why their paint job will have issues not long after leaving the shop.
Honestly at that price it's not too bad, this is kind of a good option for when you don't want to deal with doing it yourself but don't want to pay for a super pro job either.
The pitting is called solvent pop. It’s caused when the clear dries faster then the base. They didn’t wait long enough for the basecoat to dry and it cause it to push through the clear. Happens when hot or humid. Have to use slower hardener and wait longer in between base or clear coat.
Bodyman here. The paint issues at 8:45 is called "solvent pop" or "fish eyes." This happens when silicone is introduced at some point in the sanding, prepping, painting/clear process. Usually someone had a little grease on their hands and touched the car and transferred it. Using wax and grease remover is part of the prepping process that Macco did a poor job of resulting in the solvent pop.
In my experience with Maaco removing parts like side markers, mirrors, headlights, taillights, sideskirts, moldings on your own before dropping off and once you arrive meeting with the office person to circle with a marker dings and areas of concern will result in a great paint job with only needing a cut and buff when it's done. They also get to paint the other parts ( mirrors sideskirts bumpers etc) off the car which come out looking great
I used to work at a Maaco, they always get a bad reputation because they're willing to do $500 paint jobs, which you get what you pay for. But if you actually pay, they're able to do some great work. Atleast that was the case at the one I worked at.
I had a 1996 Civic painted with their enamel coat for $650. That paint is still good and no peeling lol. It was painted mineral gray over an aqua color. It came out really good. Only had 1 issue with maaco but that was employee based and not the actually paint job.
I worked at a Maaco during the summers when I was in high school. Here are a few tips to get the best results. 1- always get the base cost/clear coat. All of the paint used at the shop I worked at was good PPG paint, but the 2 stage paint let’s them know you actually care about the car. If you plan of wet sanding the car after, see if they can spray an extra coat of clear. Usually two is all you will get. 2- when you get a car painted there everything is an up charge. If they say your car needs extra prep work because of pealing paint, pay for it. 3- they usually never remove headlight/taillights. Take them out yourself when you drop off the car. 4- expect overspray, they are a production shop. things get moved through faster than you would believe. The record at my store was 14 cars painted in one day. We usually tried to take care of any issues like overspray or fisheyes, but things move quickly and get overlooked. Lastly you have to remember that most people who go to maaco are not car people, they can get away with rushed work because their customers don’t know the difference between a $10,000 paint job and a $1,000 paint job. Some people just want their Chevy cobalt painted hot pink for $500.
When it comes to paying for services, theres three main types of work youre gonna find: A Fast job. A well done job. A cheap job. You can only ever choose 2.
Nonsense- no such thing aa cheap and well done in one. No reputable shop would touch my hooptie for under 12grand, and it has zero body damage beyond some paint chip and spiderwebbing (all fiberglass)
@@_Gingium_ lol take a look and let me know. My roof has the same little texture as your fender, i think it's just not enough clear coat. Laid on too dry.
Every single Maaco is only as good as their painter and body guy is. The key to using them is to find the closest location near you that has the best reviews and has the best looking quality jobs that you can see in person in their finished state. I used them once back in the 90's chose the best location in my eyes and came out with a fantastic paint job in the end and that was for a car that I drove daily and entered in car shows on weekends. The only issue that I had was delamination of paint and clear which was my own fault because I used silicone based dressing on my moldings for years before the car was repainted. They took care of it no problem even though it was my doing. I'd use them again but sadly they closed up like 5 years later
Which is why I'm keep my 370z ceramic coated/obsessively clean, regular top coats (Carpro specific products); While it can be a lot of time, 8 years later, the car looks better than most on the road. People are really just lazy. It takes 15 mins - 20 mins to do a basic wash and carefully dry a car. People have ZERO clue as to how fragile car paint really is. It's a thin layer, so basically, don't let anyone or anything TOUCH your car. I'll abandon a trip to a store if I cannot find a specific parking spot.
I had mine painted at MAACO recently, spent double what you paid, but they fixed the dents and did a two stage paint. Honestly for a third of what a couple body shops quoted it looks really good. I would say in a least in my experience it was a good as a factory paint job.
That paint issue you pointed out was either fish eyes or solvent pop, solvent pop usually happenes when someone throws another coat over something drying and it bubbles up through the clear, fish eyes is when some sort of contaminant got into the paint and leaves fish eyes
Who remembers Earl Schieb? "I'll Paint any Car any Color for $49.99". A friend bought a van used by a pool company and took it to Earl. It was now black along with overspray on a few windows, tires and bumper but it looked good (from a distance). Within 4 months it looked like the blue van again with black potato chips glued all over it.
The clear coat pitting is solvent pop. It's caused by not waiting long enough between coats of either paint or clear. You can sand and buff out some of it but really big bubbles are hard to sand out. (work at a body shop)
Had a Maaco paint job on my 1991 tsi awd, turned out rough, but after a lot of polishing and cleaning overspray it was looking great. Painted the roof just too! Miss that car
I had a Volvo Turbo wagon some years ago. After the wifey banged up the side and because the car was metallic, I decided to have them (MAACO) respray the whole thing. It was a decent car and I wanted a decent paint job, so I spent a couple days taking the car apart. Bumpers, window trim, even door handles and lock bezels. Basically, everything that could be taken off, I took off. Got the car back a week later. As here, there were places that a couple shots of hi-build primer and a block would have taken care of, that weren't. The quality of the finish was mediocre at best. But the thing that really sealed the deal for me, (and the reason I've never returned to MAACO) was a small decal near the fuel filler door that said "Unleaded Fuel Only" The decal (which was original to the car) had clearly had a rectabgular piece of masking tape placed over it prior to painting. After a couple coats of paint and clear, the ridge around it stood out like a sore thumb. I have no idea WTF the prep guy or the painter were thinking, or even if they were. It was horrible...I winced every time I looked at it. We sold the car at a loss. As an aside, the quality of a paint job is NEVER better than the quality of the prep. Also, the cost of removing a bad paint job can easily exceed the cost of aplying it in the first place. Choose your painter wisely!
the problem with these paint jobs is, they ALWAYS paint the parts that are supposed to be black the same color as the rest of the car. Th "A" and "B" pillars, the wing, the roof, the trim below your freaking windows.
Late 1991, My Father purchased a 1992 White w/red interior Mitsubishi Eclipse G.S. & I grew up in that car! Love it!!! Always wanted a G.S X. Or a 3000GT vr4
4K video while most, if not all people, watch RUclips on phones that don't have 4K screens nor need them because the pixel density is already high. But there is a really valid reason to shoot in 4K or (my personal preference) 5K or higher. You can, while editing, zoom in on the image without losing quality if your target would be 1080p (or shoot in 5K and go down to 4K). That is a really powerful tool.
You know, not a bad deal. Just wet sand buff, polish and it'll look good. I'd definitely consider it on a normal car, or pickup of mine, but Definitely not a nice car lol
A little wet sand and she will be good 👍 I owned 2 fwd turbo versions, one of the funnest platforms I’ve ever owned. People don’t realize how quick these generations actually are. They handled ok and honestly I fell in love with the looks and the interior. It was a car that was ahead of its time and laid path for all fwd turbo cars that exist today. Of course the AWD or GSX versions were more sought after but in my opinion the GST was the best value for the money. I spanked quite a few mustangs and camaros in this car. My high school car memories are hitting 40 psi with every video. Thank you for building obtainable cars like this, let’s the younger generation know you don’t have to own a mclaren to get out there and have fun. Setting a good example among a sea of clueless “car enthusiasts” who slap burble tunes and windshield banners on their cars and call them builds.
clearcoat pitting happens when the applied paintjob and clearcoat is left to dry in normal air temp conditions, pitting is eliminated when the car paint job is dried under heated temps. some paint rooms can be heated, thus baking the paint. The heat levels out the applied clearcoat giving the overall paint job a super smooth and wet look.
Dude for that price that is a solid paint job. Not to mention the fact that the car looks SOOOOO much better! You are bringing this thing back from the edge of death! SOMEBODY FIND THIS MAN A SHOP!!!
Being in the industry I look at this paint job and I think "damn, they really rushed this one". I see this kind of stuff a lot too. It just takes a little more effort to have paint look good. If it was any other body shop I'd tell them to fix it. People are saying wet sand and polish will fix this and honestly it will help a lot but some of that pitting isn't going to smooth out. Since the dents were not filled before paint you would now have to rely on PDR to fix those and you could risk pulling the paint.
Good to see someone giving a DSM some love. My buddy had a serious fast (at the time) DSM. My dad had bought a brand new 2006 SRT8 and that DSM was even from 40-125. I've been a fan ever since and have had several different types of performance cars. Somewhere deep within I still wanna build a DSM someday. The car looks great my dude. Enjoy the fresh paint and this amazing boost weather.
They did a decent job on my 2007 FJ Cruiser. But they jacked up my triple windshield wipers. And the rear wiper is still broke! I can't complain about the paint, that all Tuxedo Black Metallic looks like a beast!
Back around 92, I had a little 80s Honda Civic hatchback that got a macco paint job for like $300. This was exactly the type of quality I was expecting. They do cheap work for cars you don't care about the details
Wow, takes me back. My brother bought one of those brand new, in red also. Was a great, fun car. We took many trips from Southern California to Vegas in that car.
I think it's horrible when the door jambs and the engine bay don't match, so I think the red is the right choice. The paint job isn't perfect but it is fine for what it is and it protects the car against rust n everything, doesn't look awful, it absolutely gets the job done!
Had my old lowrider truck painted there I had it painted white it was in about the same condition as your paint my dad and I wet sanded the whole truck and it came out really nice ✌🏽
I did the body work on my '63 Bug and took it to Maaco. They totally gouged both doors and then sprayed over their gouges. When I went to pick up the car they said: " you told us not to do any bodywork, that you had already done it."
As a detailer you’ll definitely need to sand it back, 3 stage correction and ceramic coat it. You’ll have a much much better finish and the ceramic will keep it good for longer.
I seen many guys and go get a maaco paint job and spend way more fixing it. I've heard you should do that body work yourself, Also deliver it with the all the lights and any trim you need removed because they will tape it as you found out. Also, tape the under side.... like you found out. A foam tape the body gaps you don't want paint in or over spray. Then be prepared to fix imperfections. Paint is 100% in the prep.... its where they lack based on the time given for the paint job.
The pitting is probably solvents that weren't cleaned off before paint which makes the paint or clear react and get fisheyes or pitting from where the paint can't adhere correctly.
I painted my hood recently and I got some pitting that can only be seen in a certain light. I was told by a paint shop that because I did not have a booth and turn my fan off overnight that is why they explained that when it dries without airflow that the vapor dries and goes up but because of no airflow it falls back down and that is what causes the pitting. I am not sure if that is a complete truth but, it kinda makes sense. Looks good from here though, thanks for the content.
The black roof, rear view mirrors and window trims were part of the 1G DSM look or design language . The different versions of the 1G DSM had different variations of the black roof and targa (B-Pillar) with some panels being body colored with black as a contrast. Personally I think it's a little too red. The black parts definitely breaks up the monochromatic look. Still for the price, it definitely looks better than before. I'll probably wind up taking my Conquest to the local Maaco when it comes time to get it painted.
I know Maaco Paint Jobs, both as a customer and a manager/sup of the body and paint guys. And, I remember the $99 in & out 1 day deals! There was even a $79 deal in 1997 unreal
Maaco painted our 2009 Hyndai Sonata white for 1000, its been 8 months and already the paint is peeling. They also painted the trim, and there was a considerable amount of white powder in the car.
Maaco uses limpco paint products which is as cheap as you can get. The imperfections are solvent pop which is spraying to many coats to fast, so the top coat dries and then when then bottom layers evaporate they leave little holes where the gas escape
The clear coat bubbling/pitting definitely looks like solvent pop. From my understanding, if they didn't let the base coat dry enough that will happen. Would also explain my part of the car looks better because it probably had a bit longer to dry. The weird shallow spots that almost look like small puddles in the clear coat though, I have no idea what that's about. Maybe where they used some kind of body filler for small imperfections and it ended up shrinking a bit? Might also explain why the dents kind of came back, because the body filler sunk a bit. The quick turnaround time may have been the curse of this paint job. Not taking out the lights is also pretty lame. I gladly pay an extra 50 bucks for that on my paint job hahaha. Overall, I think you got what you paid for, but I would probably call it like a 3.5 out of 5 stars. The car still looks awesome if you don't get close to scrutinize, and amazing on camera!
MAACO can do a good job. Shop around, Im in a larger metro area, all MACCOs are not the same. One place in Costa Mesa CA bid $3500 just to strip all my old paint off, before even considering body work or finish paint. I went to the MACCO in Orange and the stripped, body and paint, color sand and buff, all for $2500. So... shop around.
Robbie Ferreira had this clear pits thingy on his car. I think he talked about why did nt hapoened and how to fix it but didnt fix it cause it was his drift car
4 days isn't that much of a monumental achievement considering. 1st day, getting it cleaned & broken down. 2nd day, Bondo and old paint removal. 3&4 Paint & Clear Coat
The bumps look like water/oil in the air lines for the sprayer. Desiccant filter prob was I need of replacement. Maybe cut and polish it and let us know if it improves?
I know people will disagree but having owned 2 1g dsms i will claim they are some of the best cars ever made. Yes I was always fixing them but they were so much fun and look good. Fast. Awd burnouts. Decent rear suspension so they handled well enough. good memories.
Ok, I am glad your satisfied with it. Maaco did a really good job on there part, but even then, there huge list of things things that don't get covered by the 1600 dollars. Luckily, its not super hard to fix most of the issues you got. At this point.. I would wet sand, cut and polish.. and also pull the front bumper and then paint anything under it black... that is going to bug everyone on youtube so you might as well do that. As for brownie points, I would vinyl wrap most of the roof black again. Every first gen DSM looks great with the roof being black, Rattle canning it black is not going to be fun or easy... But vinyl is super cheap to do it with, Like 100 bucks would cover the roof and maybe even a the front hood and bumper of the car... So they you get your bug and rock protection covered also. Also... Explaining what your going to do to the roof of the car, then doing it, and judging the results of your actions will easily eat up 3 minutes of film time to show you doing it. Yea.. there is other ways to pad out video.. but I feel like its been a while since we seen you tackle Vinyl and its a super effective project any car guy should learn how to do if for no other reason then to keep there car's front bumper looking nice. Best of all if you hate it, you can peal the vinyl off later.
Should've done the prep tho, every time I hear of a Maaco paint job failing, it's because of inadequate prep, so if you do it yourself, you'd guarantee an even better result
@@gavip24 Really depends on how rough the old paint is. But generally the most important part is removing things like headlights, taillights, window trim, etc because Maaco is not gonna remove that, they're just gonna tape around it and the result is gonna be meh, because the paint will chip around the tape line, you'll have overspray, etc.. Then there's sanding, if your paint is still ok underneath, a good pass with 400 then 800 grit all over the car is good, then you have to bondo the damaged parts, make sure you're not putting too much thickness, or it will crack, so if the dent is deep either try to pop it back out as good as possible to use less filler, or use fiberglass body filler, if your paint is chipping in places, I would use a much lower grit sand paper like 180 and sand enough to get to the primer or if not possible even to bare metal, all bare metal will need to be covered with a layer of primer because Maaco doesn't use primer since they spray over the old paint, you know little details that go a long way but that Maaco won't bother doing. Then there's a very important step, degreasing and cleaning the car before painting with wax and grease remover, but usually they won't let you do that step since it needs to be the last thing done right before painting and they don't exactly want you in their shop lol
@@imnota thanks for the detailed response! Another question am I degreasing and washing the car before or after I sand? Or will the sanding help degrease?
@@gavip24 If you don't wash before sanding you will clog up and dirty up the sand paper and you will wear it faster and use more of it, so clean it before, but it doesn't need to be spotless or degreased, simply needs to not be dirty. After it's sanded just before you get it painted it needs to be thoroughly washed, there can't be any dust left, it needs to be degreased, basically it needs to be as clean as you can make it.
Looks like solvent pop. Hammering material on without letting it flash correctly traps solvents below the top layer that eventually works out and creates little pits
Macco replaced the back bumper on my wife's 13 malibu and painted the rear. I went to pick up the car and they could not find her rear license plate. The guy was wandering around the shop aimlessly and eventually disappeared. I was inspecting the paint in the parking lot and discovered they installed the new bumper over the license plate that was zip tied to the rear bumper bracket. On the other hand I have a 93 s10 single stage paint job that is over 10 years old that still looks amazing. I guess it all depends on what Macco you go to.
If you do that again, just do the partial prep yourself, remove those light lenses and trim that you can before you drop it off. Also, if they left you enough clear, after the paint cures in about a month, you can wet/sand and buff out the paint. Just note that if you do that, every single little ding on the body will be much easier to see.
From others who have used Maaco it's a fact that after 4 days the paint needs to harden before the paint can be worked on. A Maaco Manager / Owner has said it depends on the Manager as to how he runs the shop and what level of quality your final finish. II also hear if you have some gripes over the finish and dent removal not up to par often if you tell the manager he will get it sorted.
That light thing would have pissed me off so much. They knew it got broken on their watch. They probably did the fronts first, damaged the headlight and said NOPE and taped the tails. Still scummy that they didn't tell you they messed up. Those specific parts for old Japanese cars are an arm and a leg in good usable condition. I also appreciate you putting the in video ad at the back of the video and letting us know it was coming right in the beginning. Nothing pulls me out of the story more than bringing it up in the first 1/3rd of the video. RUclipsr: Today we are talking about XYZ Me: YAY! RUclipsr: But first a word from our sponsor Me: FUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUU
Paint looks pretty solid in person too! At least from the back... I was behind you this morning when you pulled out from the axe throwing place (you don't see many DSM here, especially with Illinois plates).
The cost is low, but do check and see how long the store has been around. In my region they come and go, and prices vary widely between stores. If the store you went to closes up, you get to find and deal with another store. For resale, cant beat it. For a show car, good luck.
Yeah, it's not perfect but with a wet sand and polish that you mentioned it's going to be at least 50% better! I think that anyone with a basic knowledge of what a good paint job requires would be shocked what price you got that done for. Frankly I'm shocked that for $1600 they didn't poop in your glove box and siphon your gas
About 18 years ago, $1600 USD could get me a very thorough OEM quality legit paint job with all dents fixed and all lights and nozzles removed or properly taped.
in 92 I got a macco paint job for $300 and it's about the same quality as this. I didn't care about the car because it was only the car I drove to work in. Macco is for a car you bum around in for a 2nd car
IF you have an older car, and the grill, trim, bumpers, marker lights, tail lights, anything like that is easy to remove, remove it all yourself... You will get a better paint job. Doing color change with door jobs? remove the door sills, its like 5 screws.. EASY... The more prep you can do, the better... Wipe clean, and lightly sand door jams, weather strip gutters jambs, ask what can you do to help before leaving the car... You will get a better paint job.
still have my first car. it still has a 200.00 maaco paint job. they got paint on the trim and even got some on the glass. the paint used was decent enough cause it still looks good. needs a coat of wax, but it still looks ok.
The weird texture that you are getting on that one fender is called fisheye. it generally happens when there is some water in the air lines during the painting process and normally when shooting the clear coat. Theres really no way to fix it but to sand and re-clear coat it.
I think the paint job is fitting for the car. It's not a show car so it doesn't need to be perfect, and when you're flying past people on the highway they wont notice any tiny issue lol
1st thing I noticed was how they painted the lower door molding but the rear lower window to match...lol...You better get some Blk Vinyl wrap and wrap the B-Pilar and that door molding piece.
I'm about to do this and a few friends have already done it and given me advice - your video reinforces all of it. Keep the same color. Get the 2 step. You will need to wetsand it again because shops never spend enough time on that. Remove your own lights. If necessary, drive to the shop with the lights loose, and spend a few minutes pulling them out in their lot. Tape off behind any gaps yourself, especially under the hood. Any automotive masking tape works. $8 for a roll. Things I learned from your video: remove the washer nozzles (seriously that's so crazy they didn't) and probably do some body work ust treatment yourself.
For all the people saying it's fish eyeing it's not. From the camera seems to be just poor spraying. Seems like dry spraying i.e the paint flashing off too fast. Or they didn't use a tack rag between coats. Pretty much seems on par for maaco lol Edit* all the wavyness is from the sander. They didn't use a primer and sprayed right over your color. Because of that and the fact that they probably aren't using an interface pad they got mad waves.
Yeah the black roof is iconic to the 1g DSM's. They do not look right painted all one color. I remember seeing one on the dsmtuners forum painted 100% tan metallic oh man did that look awful.
"Fix dents" Mayco : Fill the dents with 2 part epoxy, because bondo takes 10x longer to do and finish. Either way, for what it is, you'd be a fool to spend more than this on it.
My father had an 02 EP3 painted Destroyer Grey by Maaco and spent $2000, I had an 03 EP3 professionally painted black with red metallic for $4600 and I will say Maaco knocked it out of the park in comparison. For my next project I’ll definitely be taking it there. No they’re not perfect but they are the best bang for the buck
Gingium: "We're finally at 4k baby."
RUclips's auto quality logic: "480p sounds nice."
mine gets ut to 360p
@@LovelieMaki wait, there is a video? I only have sound
@@_underscore_2381 wait yeah what was i talking about? theres a video?
Dude if werent for your comment i wouldn even notice video quality hahha :D tnx mate
Also apple logic be like: pay $2000 for a phone and get 1080P
Definitely could use a wet sand, cut and polish. But for $1600 its a really good starting point
Oh yea, and I think he's prooooobably capable of handling that himself? Granted he never did it to the rx7 lol
haha I came here to say this.
I would rather spend 1,600 on paint vs wrap am I wrong y’all?
Wouldn’t be maaco if they didn’t paint the trim lol
Fr that door trim being red makes me mad lol
What are ya kidding.. what’s the prep time worth !? That’s the key question. Laying coloring doesn’t hide the potholes in the panels .
Seriously, 2 more hours of prep and this paint job would look 10x better. Such laziness
Once you notice the black rubber lower window trim is painted on the door, you can't un-see it. They taped off the rear quarter glass trim, but not the doors... Hmmm
@@stacyholt6529 professional shops . Charge that xtra 10.75 per hour for those details
You can see the imperfections in the phone light, it looks like it’s bumpy, overall though besides the obvious lack of attention to detail it doesn’t seem to bad and on camera from distance it looks great.
Yeah its certainly not great. But good enough for video!
$1600
Good from far and far from good. Worth not having to do it yourself IMO
@@_Gingium_ What that is or what i call it is orange peel texture of an orange peel it will buff right out just dont burn the clear while buffing
Pretty solid better than I was expecting and you won’t be too pissed if a shopping cart hits it or something
He would definitely be pissed, even if it wasn’t painted that well.
Why wouldn't you be pissed if a shopping cart smacked in to your car?? I WOULD.
As a 1G DSM owner: the paint from the factory wasn't great anyway. Just a cut and buff will probably help a lot.
Sadly Mitsubishi's in general have pretty poor paint jobs.
@@gundamxzero3 Well, my sister has a 2008 outlander in silver, never been garaged, exposed to the strong southern California sun now for 14 years, no clear coat failure anywhere. Still looks great. I hand wax it for her once a year. Let's see Honda and Toyota do that. All thier clear coat goes to shit around 7, 8 years here.
@@johnfranklin5277 you must take great care of it. Waxing goes a long way. I know some colors are better than others. I heard the early 2000's yellow and red lancers had really bad paint jobs
That’s what you call a 20/20. Looks good at 20 feet or 20mph.
Lmao
💀💀
If you can see the "pitted" imperfection but cannot feel it through the clear coat, it's likely that the base coat is the layer that has a bit of orange peel. Hope that helps, looks pretty good overall!
Or is silicone throughout the clear coat
@@dooglemaples1914 This.
@@DickTrikle I’m assuming you’re also a painter? Not typical knowledge for a non painter
That pitting is caused when the undercoat is off gassing and the clear coat is sprayed before the undercoat has time to cure properly.
Good ole solvent pop. That’s what happens when you try to paint 8 cars a day lol.
First thing that came to mind when I saw it.
From what I saw on camera that is solvent pop. Pretty common with these kinds of places. The move them out in the sun, or put heat lamps on it before the solvent has time to evaporate
I don't think those guys at Maaco is gunna wait for it to "properly" cure.....
I had my NB painted by MAACO 3 years ago. I paid $1200 for single stage plus a new driver side front fender. Overall it has held up perfectly fine.
The main imperfections are mild orange peel, a couple of spots where it looks like dust got on the paint, and some poor masking around the window trims. There was also some overspray on my wheels but I was able to get that off with some lacquer thinner. Overall, it looks perfect from 10 feet away and I’m the only person who even notices the imperfections. Other people say it looks good as new.
For anyone looking to get a MAACO paint job it’s important to know that somebody else’s experience isn’t necessarily applicable to you, considering there are hundreds of locations all staffed by different people, and the person spraying the car will have the biggest impact on the result. Definitely look at reviews for your location shop over the experience of someone on the other side of the country.
Boosted John's message sounded like voice message from NFSMW Razor's cocky personality. Btw car looks sick.
I visited the comments just to find this exact comment! I thought the same thing! Really big NFS vibes
I took my first truck to maaco after doing months of body work. I paid for their most expensive package it was around $3600 back then. The entire truck was d/a down to 350 then wet sanded down to 600. The paint surface was perfect. When i got my truck back it had terrible orange peel, was the wrong color, and started bubbling before 30 days because they A. Didnt clean the truck before painting it and B. Didnt put on a primer coat which i specifically paid for. When i called them out about it the owner got in my face and told me it was my prep work that caused it, my above and beyond prep work caused it because i used a primer to cover up some bare metal in a spot that wasnt even fucking bubbling. I basically told the guy if he didnt get out of my face things were gonna get out of hand and that if that was in fact the cause the coat of primer i paid to be put on shouldve 100% dealt with that issue. Then he argued that they sprayed primer so i litterally had to go out to the truck and peel a piece of bubbling paint off to prove to this asshole that they never sprayed primer. So then he told me to tape off the areas that were bubbling and he would have them fixed so i did. Then they let my truck sit outside in the sun (its the beginning of summer) and the masking take glued to the paint and they ripped the paint off my truck then called me and told me to "come get my fucking truck" and told me it was my fault because i used the wrong type of masking tape... This is knowledge even an idiot can comprehend, if you leave an adhesive in the sun/heat what does it do? It hardens. I had to go into the shop and tear the owner up and told him if he didnt fix my truck then i was headed back to town to see a lawyer and he ended up giving in and redoing the whole truck and it finally came out right, with the color, primer, and the amount of clear coat i paid for. Moral of the story if youre gonna get a car painted send it somewhere more professional and spend the money cuz if you want to save money, wrap is inexpensive, easy diy, and requires a lot less prep work.
If Maaco is going to use excuses based on the vehicle's condition when they take it over to do their "magic", they should note all of that in writing and explain why their paint job will have issues not long after leaving the shop.
Honestly at that price it's not too bad, this is kind of a good option for when you don't want to deal with doing it yourself but don't want to pay for a super pro job either.
The pitting is called solvent pop. It’s caused when the clear dries faster then the base. They didn’t wait long enough for the basecoat to dry and it cause it to push through the clear. Happens when hot or humid. Have to use slower hardener and wait longer in between base or clear coat.
Was waiting for someone to tell him the truth about it. Good to see someone who knows about paint as well
Bodyman here. The paint issues at 8:45 is called "solvent pop" or "fish eyes." This happens when silicone is introduced at some point in the sanding, prepping, painting/clear process. Usually someone had a little grease on their hands and touched the car and transferred it. Using wax and grease remover is part of the prepping process that Macco did a poor job of resulting in the solvent pop.
In my experience with Maaco removing parts like side markers, mirrors, headlights, taillights, sideskirts, moldings on your own before dropping off and once you arrive meeting with the office person to circle with a marker dings and areas of concern will result in a great paint job with only needing a cut and buff when it's done. They also get to paint the other parts ( mirrors sideskirts bumpers etc) off the car which come out looking great
I used to work at a Maaco, they always get a bad reputation because they're willing to do $500 paint jobs, which you get what you pay for. But if you actually pay, they're able to do some great work. Atleast that was the case at the one I worked at.
For $1600 at a Maaco, that's incredible. I've never seen a paint job by them that wasn't orange-peeled to hell and back.
Come down to the painter
I had a 1996 Civic painted with their enamel coat for $650. That paint is still good and no peeling lol. It was painted mineral gray over an aqua color. It came out really good. Only had 1 issue with maaco but that was employee based and not the actually paint job.
I worked at a Maaco during the summers when I was in high school. Here are a few tips to get the best results.
1- always get the base cost/clear coat. All of the paint used at the shop I worked at was good PPG paint, but the 2 stage paint let’s them know you actually care about the car. If you plan of wet sanding the car after, see if they can spray an extra coat of clear. Usually two is all you will get.
2- when you get a car painted there everything is an up charge. If they say your car needs extra prep work because of pealing paint, pay for it.
3- they usually never remove headlight/taillights. Take them out yourself when you drop off the car.
4- expect overspray, they are a production shop. things get moved through faster than you would believe. The record at my store was 14 cars painted in one day. We usually tried to take care of any issues like overspray or fisheyes, but things move quickly and get overlooked.
Lastly you have to remember that most people who go to maaco are not car people, they can get away with rushed work because their customers don’t know the difference between a $10,000 paint job and a $1,000 paint job. Some people just want their Chevy cobalt painted hot pink for $500.
When it comes to paying for services, theres three main types of work youre gonna find:
A Fast job.
A well done job.
A cheap job.
You can only ever choose 2.
Good work aint cheap
Cheap work aint good
Nonsense- no such thing aa cheap and well done in one. No reputable shop would touch my hooptie for under 12grand, and it has zero body damage beyond some paint chip and spiderwebbing (all fiberglass)
Just like a car, fast reliable cheap pick 2
I've been stressed out from work and I love being able to watch your videos and work towards that goal
Glad I can help ya relax!
wet sand, cut, polish, ceramic coat and it's mint bruh. honestly looks about the same as my rattle can job lol.
Yeah it could certainly be fixed! And idk if your rattle can job was really good or this was really bad lol.
@@_Gingium_ lol take a look and let me know. My roof has the same little texture as your fender, i think it's just not enough clear coat. Laid on too dry.
Every single Maaco is only as good as their painter and body guy is. The key to using them is to find the closest location near you that has the best reviews and has the best looking quality jobs that you can see in person in their finished state. I used them once back in the 90's chose the best location in my eyes and came out with a fantastic paint job in the end and that was for a car that I drove daily and entered in car shows on weekends. The only issue that I had was delamination of paint and clear which was my own fault because I used silicone based dressing on my moldings for years before the car was repainted. They took care of it no problem even though it was my doing. I'd use them again but sadly they closed up like 5 years later
First Patreon video im watching! Glad to have early access to these vids
Thank you for the support!
It's fish eye/scallops
it is absolutely astounding what a simple paint job can do to completely transform the look and feel of a car.
Which is why I'm keep my 370z ceramic coated/obsessively clean, regular top coats (Carpro specific products); While it can be a lot of time, 8 years later, the car looks better than most on the road. People are really just lazy. It takes 15 mins - 20 mins to do a basic wash and carefully dry a car. People have ZERO clue as to how fragile car paint really is. It's a thin layer, so basically, don't let anyone or anything TOUCH your car. I'll abandon a trip to a store if I cannot find a specific parking spot.
That old school seat belt track mechanism brings back a lot of old memories lol. Good ones!
I would definitely attempt an at home cut, buff and polish. Bet it'd make it smooth considering how much clear they like to lay
Also *wink wink* it's a good video topic to cover and would definitely gain some views 👀
this is the right one to introduce 4k. Lets see that paint job brother. so happy for you man. KEEP GETTING AFTER IT BROTHER
Just in time to see all the paint imperfections LOL. Thanks for the support man!
@@_Gingium_ yeah it is a good from far but far from good. looking forward to your next visit.
I had mine painted at MAACO recently, spent double what you paid, but they fixed the dents and did a two stage paint. Honestly for a third of what a couple body shops quoted it looks really good. I would say in a least in my experience it was a good as a factory paint job.
That paint issue you pointed out was either fish eyes or solvent pop, solvent pop usually happenes when someone throws another coat over something drying and it bubbles up through the clear, fish eyes is when some sort of contaminant got into the paint and leaves fish eyes
Who remembers Earl Schieb? "I'll Paint any Car any Color for $49.99". A friend bought a van used by a pool company and took it to Earl. It was now black along with overspray on a few windows, tires and bumper but it looked good (from a distance). Within 4 months it looked like the blue van again with black potato chips glued all over it.
The clear coat pitting is solvent pop. It's caused by not waiting long enough between coats of either paint or clear. You can sand and buff out some of it but really big bubbles are hard to sand out.
(work at a body shop)
This. Ronald Finger got the same thing on his Fiero. Also, everybody come on fhwgads 👏
The pitting your talking about is probably solvent pop or fisheye. That happens when you don’t clean the surface well enough before painting.
Had a Maaco paint job on my 1991 tsi awd, turned out rough, but after a lot of polishing and cleaning overspray it was looking great. Painted the roof just too! Miss that car
I had a Volvo Turbo wagon some years ago. After the wifey banged up the side and because the car was metallic, I decided to have them (MAACO) respray the whole thing. It was a decent car and I wanted a decent paint job, so I spent a couple days taking the car apart. Bumpers, window trim, even door handles and lock bezels. Basically, everything that could be taken off, I took off. Got the car back a week later. As here, there were places that a couple shots of hi-build primer and a block would have taken care of, that weren't. The quality of the finish was mediocre at best. But the thing that really sealed the deal for me, (and the reason I've never returned to MAACO) was a small decal near the fuel filler door that said "Unleaded Fuel Only" The decal (which was original to the car) had clearly had a rectabgular piece of masking tape placed over it prior to painting. After a couple coats of paint and clear, the ridge around it stood out like a sore thumb. I have no idea WTF the prep guy or the painter were thinking, or even if they were. It was horrible...I winced every time I looked at it. We sold the car at a loss.
As an aside, the quality of a paint job is NEVER better than the quality of the prep. Also, the cost of removing a bad paint job can easily exceed the cost of aplying it in the first place. Choose your painter wisely!
the problem with these paint jobs is, they ALWAYS paint the parts that are supposed to be black the same color as the rest of the car.
Th "A" and "B" pillars, the wing, the roof, the trim below your freaking windows.
Yep, 1G DSM's look really weird when the roof and pillars are body color. Only the base models got that treatment from the factory.
Late 1991, My Father purchased a 1992 White w/red interior Mitsubishi Eclipse G.S. & I grew up in that car! Love it!!! Always wanted a G.S X. Or a 3000GT vr4
4K video while most, if not all people, watch RUclips on phones that don't have 4K screens nor need them because the pixel density is already high. But there is a really valid reason to shoot in 4K or (my personal preference) 5K or higher. You can, while editing, zoom in on the image without losing quality if your target would be 1080p (or shoot in 5K and go down to 4K). That is a really powerful tool.
You know, not a bad deal. Just wet sand buff, polish and it'll look good. I'd definitely consider it on a normal car, or pickup of mine, but Definitely not a nice car lol
A little wet sand and she will be good 👍 I owned 2 fwd turbo versions, one of the funnest platforms I’ve ever owned. People don’t realize how quick these generations actually are. They handled ok and honestly I fell in love with the looks and the interior. It was a car that was ahead of its time and laid path for all fwd turbo cars that exist today. Of course the AWD or GSX versions were more sought after but in my opinion the GST was the best value for the money. I spanked quite a few mustangs and camaros in this car. My high school car memories are hitting 40 psi with every video. Thank you for building obtainable cars like this, let’s the younger generation know you don’t have to own a mclaren to get out there and have fun. Setting a good example among a sea of clueless “car enthusiasts” who slap burble tunes and windshield banners on their cars and call them builds.
For what it is, it’s great, for an older car like this, i wouldn’t mind
clearcoat pitting happens when the applied paintjob and clearcoat is left to dry in normal air temp conditions, pitting is eliminated when the car paint job is dried under heated temps. some paint rooms can be heated, thus baking the paint. The heat levels out the applied clearcoat giving the overall paint job a super smooth and wet look.
Next time, do the body work and remove the lights, trim, etc. then have Maaco do the painting. Then it's win win!
Dude for that price that is a solid paint job. Not to mention the fact that the car looks SOOOOO much better! You are bringing this thing back from the edge of death! SOMEBODY FIND THIS MAN A SHOP!!!
Being in the industry I look at this paint job and I think "damn, they really rushed this one". I see this kind of stuff a lot too. It just takes a little more effort to have paint look good. If it was any other body shop I'd tell them to fix it. People are saying wet sand and polish will fix this and honestly it will help a lot but some of that pitting isn't going to smooth out. Since the dents were not filled before paint you would now have to rely on PDR to fix those and you could risk pulling the paint.
Sand, cut, polish, and ceramic coat and it will be gorgeous! It’s gonna Look great!
Good to see someone giving a DSM some love. My buddy had a serious fast (at the time) DSM. My dad had bought a brand new 2006 SRT8 and that DSM was even from 40-125. I've been a fan ever since and have had several different types of performance cars. Somewhere deep within I still wanna build a DSM someday. The car looks great my dude. Enjoy the fresh paint and this amazing boost weather.
They did a decent job on my 2007 FJ Cruiser. But they jacked up my triple windshield wipers. And the rear wiper is still broke! I can't complain about the paint, that all Tuxedo Black Metallic looks like a beast!
Back around 92, I had a little 80s Honda Civic hatchback that got a macco paint job for like $300. This was exactly the type of quality I was expecting. They do cheap work for cars you don't care about the details
Wow, takes me back. My brother bought one of those brand new, in red also. Was a great, fun car. We took many trips from Southern California to Vegas in that car.
Dude seeing it side by side with the old paint is crazy! It does look awesome in person but I didn’t realize how much of an improvement it was 😂
I think it's horrible when the door jambs and the engine bay don't match, so I think the red is the right choice. The paint job isn't perfect but it is fine for what it is and it protects the car against rust n everything, doesn't look awful, it absolutely gets the job done!
Like many people have already said, a good wet sand, cut and polish would really jazz this paint job up. But for the price, I think it looks great!
Had my old lowrider truck painted there I had it painted white it was in about the same condition as your paint my dad and I wet sanded the whole truck and it came out really nice ✌🏽
I did the body work on my '63 Bug and took it to Maaco. They totally gouged both doors and then sprayed over their gouges. When I went to pick up the car they said: " you told us not to do any bodywork, that you had already done it."
Thank you for the info. I was about to take my vehicle to Maaco, i will scratch off maaco of my list.
As a detailer you’ll definitely need to sand it back, 3 stage correction and ceramic coat it. You’ll have a much much better finish and the ceramic will keep it good for longer.
I seen many guys and go get a maaco paint job and spend way more fixing it. I've heard you should do that body work yourself, Also deliver it with the all the lights and any trim you need removed because they will tape it as you found out. Also, tape the under side.... like you found out. A foam tape the body gaps you don't want paint in or over spray. Then be prepared to fix imperfections. Paint is 100% in the prep.... its where they lack based on the time given for the paint job.
Pleeeeeasseee do a video on learning to wet sand and polish this paint job, it will look insanely good after that
If buffed correctly, she will shine! All paint jobs need cut, wet sanded,buffed, polished, & waxed afterwards! So, it's it's great start!!!!
The pitting is probably solvents that weren't cleaned off before paint which makes the paint or clear react and get fisheyes or pitting from where the paint can't adhere correctly.
I painted my hood recently and I got some pitting that can only be seen in a certain light. I was told by a paint shop that because I did not have a booth and turn my fan off overnight that is why they explained that when it dries without airflow that the vapor dries and goes up but because of no airflow it falls back down and that is what causes the pitting. I am not sure if that is a complete truth but, it kinda makes sense. Looks good from here though, thanks for the content.
The black roof, rear view mirrors and window trims were part of the 1G DSM look or design language .
The different versions of the 1G DSM had different variations of the black roof and targa (B-Pillar) with some panels being body colored with black as a contrast.
Personally I think it's a little too red. The black parts definitely breaks up the monochromatic look.
Still for the price, it definitely looks better than before.
I'll probably wind up taking my Conquest to the local Maaco when it comes time to get it painted.
I know Maaco Paint Jobs, both as a customer and a manager/sup of the body and paint guys. And, I remember the $99 in & out 1 day deals! There was even a $79 deal in 1997 unreal
Maaco painted our 2009 Hyndai Sonata white for 1000, its been 8 months and already the paint is peeling. They also painted the trim, and there was a considerable amount of white powder in the car.
It's peeling because maaco never prepped youre car before paint. They literally sprayed over clear coat, and will cause peeling
Maaco uses limpco paint products which is as cheap as you can get.
The imperfections are solvent pop which is spraying to many coats to fast, so the top coat dries and then when then bottom layers evaporate they leave little holes where the gas escape
The clear coat bubbling/pitting definitely looks like solvent pop. From my understanding, if they didn't let the base coat dry enough that will happen. Would also explain my part of the car looks better because it probably had a bit longer to dry. The weird shallow spots that almost look like small puddles in the clear coat though, I have no idea what that's about. Maybe where they used some kind of body filler for small imperfections and it ended up shrinking a bit? Might also explain why the dents kind of came back, because the body filler sunk a bit. The quick turnaround time may have been the curse of this paint job. Not taking out the lights is also pretty lame. I gladly pay an extra 50 bucks for that on my paint job hahaha. Overall, I think you got what you paid for, but I would probably call it like a 3.5 out of 5 stars. The car still looks awesome if you don't get close to scrutinize, and amazing on camera!
MAACO can do a good job. Shop around, Im in a larger metro area, all MACCOs are not the same. One place in Costa Mesa CA bid $3500 just to strip all my old paint off, before even considering body work or finish paint. I went to the MACCO in Orange and the stripped, body and paint, color sand and buff, all for $2500. So... shop around.
Robbie Ferreira had this clear pits thingy on his car. I think he talked about why did nt hapoened and how to fix it but didnt fix it cause it was his drift car
4 days isn't that much of a monumental achievement considering. 1st day, getting it cleaned & broken down. 2nd day, Bondo and old paint removal. 3&4 Paint & Clear Coat
Its a win if you look at it in its native habitat.... broken down in the driveway and it looks nice and shiny... good ole' DSM.
You’re proud of your 4K and I am sitting in a little town in the Canadian Arctic called Fort McPherson for work, and all I can stream is 360p. Lol.
The bumps look like water/oil in the air lines for the sprayer. Desiccant filter prob was I need of replacement. Maybe cut and polish it and let us know if it improves?
Zack, John and Pasha all back in the video even just a voice recording, is nostalgic, love to se them back in content
I know people will disagree but having owned 2 1g dsms i will claim they are some of the best cars ever made. Yes I was always fixing them but they were so much fun and look good. Fast. Awd burnouts. Decent rear suspension so they handled well enough. good memories.
Ok, I am glad your satisfied with it. Maaco did a really good job on there part, but even then, there huge list of things things that don't get covered by the 1600 dollars. Luckily, its not super hard to fix most of the issues you got.
At this point.. I would wet sand, cut and polish.. and also pull the front bumper and then paint anything under it black... that is going to bug everyone on youtube so you might as well do that. As for brownie points, I would vinyl wrap most of the roof black again. Every first gen DSM looks great with the roof being black, Rattle canning it black is not going to be fun or easy... But vinyl is super cheap to do it with, Like 100 bucks would cover the roof and maybe even a the front hood and bumper of the car... So they you get your bug and rock protection covered also.
Also... Explaining what your going to do to the roof of the car, then doing it, and judging the results of your actions will easily eat up 3 minutes of film time to show you doing it. Yea.. there is other ways to pad out video.. but I feel like its been a while since we seen you tackle Vinyl and its a super effective project any car guy should learn how to do if for no other reason then to keep there car's front bumper looking nice. Best of all if you hate it, you can peal the vinyl off later.
Should've done the prep tho, every time I hear of a Maaco paint job failing, it's because of inadequate prep, so if you do it yourself, you'd guarantee an even better result
What prep do u recommend?
@@gavip24
Really depends on how rough the old paint is.
But generally the most important part is removing things like headlights, taillights, window trim, etc because Maaco is not gonna remove that, they're just gonna tape around it and the result is gonna be meh, because the paint will chip around the tape line, you'll have overspray, etc..
Then there's sanding, if your paint is still ok underneath, a good pass with 400 then 800 grit all over the car is good, then you have to bondo the damaged parts, make sure you're not putting too much thickness, or it will crack, so if the dent is deep either try to pop it back out as good as possible to use less filler, or use fiberglass body filler, if your paint is chipping in places, I would use a much lower grit sand paper like 180 and sand enough to get to the primer or if not possible even to bare metal, all bare metal will need to be covered with a layer of primer because Maaco doesn't use primer since they spray over the old paint, you know little details that go a long way but that Maaco won't bother doing.
Then there's a very important step, degreasing and cleaning the car before painting with wax and grease remover, but usually they won't let you do that step since it needs to be the last thing done right before painting and they don't exactly want you in their shop lol
@@imnota thanks for the detailed response! Another question am I degreasing and washing the car before or after I sand? Or will the sanding help degrease?
@@gavip24 If you don't wash before sanding you will clog up and dirty up the sand paper and you will wear it faster and use more of it, so clean it before, but it doesn't need to be spotless or degreased, simply needs to not be dirty.
After it's sanded just before you get it painted it needs to be thoroughly washed, there can't be any dust left, it needs to be degreased, basically it needs to be as clean as you can make it.
Looks like solvent pop. Hammering material on without letting it flash correctly traps solvents below the top layer that eventually works out and creates little pits
Macco replaced the back bumper on my wife's 13 malibu and painted the rear. I went to pick up the car and they could not find her rear license plate. The guy was wandering around the shop aimlessly and eventually disappeared. I was inspecting the paint in the parking lot and discovered they installed the new bumper over the license plate that was zip tied to the rear bumper bracket. On the other hand I have a 93 s10 single stage paint job that is over 10 years old that still looks amazing. I guess it all depends on what Macco you go to.
If you do that again, just do the partial prep yourself, remove those light lenses and trim that you can before you drop it off. Also, if they left you enough clear, after the paint cures in about a month, you can wet/sand and buff out the paint. Just note that if you do that, every single little ding on the body will be much easier to see.
From others who have used Maaco it's a fact that after 4 days the paint needs to harden before the paint can be worked on. A Maaco Manager / Owner has said it depends on the Manager as to how he runs the shop and what level of quality your final finish. II also hear if you have some gripes over the finish and dent removal not up to par often if you tell the manager he will get it sorted.
if you have them but another coat of clear, you can wet sand the spots in the clear and that will look a lot better.
That light thing would have pissed me off so much. They knew it got broken on their watch. They probably did the fronts first, damaged the headlight and said NOPE and taped the tails. Still scummy that they didn't tell you they messed up. Those specific parts for old Japanese cars are an arm and a leg in good usable condition.
I also appreciate you putting the in video ad at the back of the video and letting us know it was coming right in the beginning. Nothing pulls me out of the story more than bringing it up in the first 1/3rd of the video.
RUclipsr: Today we are talking about XYZ
Me: YAY!
RUclipsr: But first a word from our sponsor
Me: FUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUU
Paint looks pretty solid in person too! At least from the back... I was behind you this morning when you pulled out from the axe throwing place (you don't see many DSM here, especially with Illinois plates).
The cost is low, but do check and see how long the store has been around. In my region they come and go, and prices vary widely between stores. If the store you went to closes up, you get to find and deal with another store. For resale, cant beat it. For a show car, good luck.
Yeah, it's not perfect but with a wet sand and polish that you mentioned it's going to be at least 50% better!
I think that anyone with a basic knowledge of what a good paint job requires would be shocked what price you got that done for. Frankly I'm shocked that for $1600 they didn't poop in your glove box and siphon your gas
About 18 years ago, $1600 USD could get me a very thorough OEM quality legit paint job with all dents fixed and all lights and nozzles removed or properly taped.
in 92 I got a macco paint job for $300 and it's about the same quality as this. I didn't care about the car because it was only the car I drove to work in. Macco is for a car you bum around in for a 2nd car
IF you have an older car, and the grill, trim, bumpers, marker lights, tail lights, anything like that is easy to remove, remove it all yourself... You will get a better paint job. Doing color change with door jobs? remove the door sills, its like 5 screws.. EASY... The more prep you can do, the better... Wipe clean, and lightly sand door jams, weather strip gutters jambs, ask what can you do to help before leaving the car... You will get a better paint job.
Great paint for the car and price! I’d be happy with it.
I like it. Looks fine for the price. It’s not supposed to be a show car. So just enjoy modding it and driving it.
still have my first car. it still has a 200.00 maaco paint job. they got paint on the trim and even got some on the glass. the paint used was decent enough cause it still looks good. needs a coat of wax, but it still looks ok.
The weird texture that you are getting on that one fender is called fisheye. it generally happens when there is some water in the air lines during the painting process and normally when shooting the clear coat. Theres really no way to fix it but to sand and re-clear coat it.
I think the paint job is fitting for the car. It's not a show car so it doesn't need to be perfect, and when you're flying past people on the highway they wont notice any tiny issue lol
Glad to see people are still making content with 1G DSM, awesome bud!
Was thinking the same thing. Honestly any DSM content is good
1st thing I noticed was how they painted the lower door molding but the rear lower window to match...lol...You better get some Blk Vinyl wrap and wrap the B-Pilar and that door molding piece.
I'm about to do this and a few friends have already done it and given me advice - your video reinforces all of it.
Keep the same color.
Get the 2 step.
You will need to wetsand it again because shops never spend enough time on that.
Remove your own lights. If necessary, drive to the shop with the lights loose, and spend a few minutes pulling them out in their lot.
Tape off behind any gaps yourself, especially under the hood. Any automotive masking tape works. $8 for a roll.
Things I learned from your video: remove the washer nozzles (seriously that's so crazy they didn't) and probably do some body work
ust treatment yourself.
For all the people saying it's fish eyeing it's not. From the camera seems to be just poor spraying. Seems like dry spraying i.e the paint flashing off too fast. Or they didn't use a tack rag between coats. Pretty much seems on par for maaco lol
Edit* all the wavyness is from the sander. They didn't use a primer and sprayed right over your color. Because of that and the fact that they probably aren't using an interface pad they got mad waves.
I liked the black roof. Without it, it looks like an elongated celica.
Yeah the black roof is iconic to the 1g DSM's. They do not look right painted all one color. I remember seeing one on the dsmtuners forum painted 100% tan metallic oh man did that look awful.
"Fix dents"
Mayco : Fill the dents with 2 part epoxy, because bondo takes 10x longer to do and finish.
Either way, for what it is, you'd be a fool to spend more than this on it.
My father had an 02 EP3 painted Destroyer Grey by Maaco and spent $2000, I had an 03 EP3 professionally painted black with red metallic for $4600 and I will say Maaco knocked it out of the park in comparison. For my next project I’ll definitely be taking it there. No they’re not perfect but they are the best bang for the buck