I think I may try one of these on my windowsill soon. My summer temps are like 85-100f days and night at 63-68f. My winter temps are 70-80f day and 60f night. My humidity is similar to your but closer to 50%. Do you think I could grow them there?
If you've grown other nepenthes by your windowsill with no issues I don't think there would be any problems. I say that because bicals are quite pricey and I hate to lose one. In my case I grew a ventrata first outdoors and learned when to water, temps, humidity. those parameters you've mentioned all worked for my bicals, and are even less extreme. have a plan B, just in case
please dont, bicalcarata are lowland and live in near bog conditions at 29 - 35 °C (83 - 95°F) during the day, and 19 - 25°C (65 - 77°F) at night. and 90-100% humidity, when temp goes under 75 for prolong time is detrimental for the plant, you plant will probably live, but wont thrive and may get sick plus it is a very big plant! it get 6foot wide leaf to leaf and way more that 10feet tall!
@@motatwo I understand what you’re saying. I’m not the only one who grew bicals this way, I got advise frompeople who raise their bicals here in TX. Other outdoors until temps of 60s before they get them indoors. There are other hobbyists that has shared their experiences that worked. I’ll do updates but as far as I can say they adapt to a wide variety of ranges in terms of temps and humidity. I respect your advise but that is not the only way.
@@motatwo their size is another thing that I’m planning for the future. But as you saw in the video, it took a while since I figured out how yo make them happy. So I think I have a couple more years to plan it out.
@@mokong4427 on that one, i was speaking to the other dude... highland and intermediate especially the cross are very adaptable, but low land way less, they really need to be hot and humid, so much so that you even can keep them in water without fearing root rot! ive done tons of reashearch as alot of ppl will give bad advice that they think are good advice, ive tryed to help, but lets talk at your next update and my bical will be 3x the size of yours and 100% healty, even my mirabillis x rafflesiana would be kind of sad at 80f and its not an ultra lowland as bical is... good luck!
you realise its way harder to heat water than air plus its your water that heat air....so its a very non efficient way to heat your tent, the good thing is as you said, it keep and add humidity... with a simple 150w infrared heat lamp, i get mine at 93f, but be carefull not to burn them if lamp is too close and it burn humidity as a bad side, i counter it with humidifier and the bulb is only 20$cad and you can localise the heat
yeah, keep your air tight or it cool down the tent and you lose humidity and then the room is too humid...lol! keep your all in, put the fan so it move the air close to the substrate to prevent mold but keep all that heat and himidity in!!! i even picked forest moss that i putted around my pots so it look more natural and help keep humidity up, i even put extra drosera capensis seeds that i have in the moss, it look like it grow well even tough it must be full of minerals...lol but i dont care for those capensis, i was sure it wouldnt grow, but it did!
Good point. I ran this tent without plants for a month. It does warm up the tent gradually. When I was in the testing phase I found several factors that worked quite well in my situation. First the tent is small, so heating it up won’t take too long. Next, the 5 gallon tank is heated by a 100w aquarium heater that I used for my 40 breeder. So heating a 5 gallon did not take long. The light I bought from amazon produced a lot of heat, from the actual reviews from Amazon. And it does heat up the air that I opened the vent on top a little bit and even moved the fans to get better circulation. I did get molds on the bical pitchers and I was told in forums that it is due to the nectar that the pitchers produce. Not a big deal as long as it does not affect the plant. As for the humidity escaping into the room, so far I don’t find that an issue. The infra red light definitely is a good suggestion and will keep it in mind if ever I decide to get a bigger tent, cause I don’t think this method will work on a bigger tent.depending on what happens this winter, I might keep this setup permanent, our Texas summers are so harsh.
As for temperatures go, I targeted 85f and find to hot in a small space. So I dialed it down to 80F and so far I get the right humidity of around 75-80%. The bicals are still getting newer pitchers. So far so good.
I think I may try one of these on my windowsill soon. My summer temps are like 85-100f days and night at 63-68f. My winter temps are 70-80f day and 60f night. My humidity is similar to your but closer to 50%. Do you think I could grow them there?
If you've grown other nepenthes by your windowsill with no issues I don't think there would be any problems. I say that because bicals are quite pricey and I hate to lose one. In my case I grew a ventrata first outdoors and learned when to water, temps, humidity. those parameters you've mentioned all worked for my bicals, and are even less extreme. have a plan B, just in case
please dont, bicalcarata are lowland and live in near bog conditions at 29 - 35 °C (83 - 95°F) during the day, and 19 - 25°C (65 - 77°F) at night. and 90-100% humidity, when temp goes under 75 for prolong time is detrimental for the plant, you plant will probably live, but wont thrive and may get sick plus it is a very big plant! it get 6foot wide leaf to leaf and way more that 10feet tall!
@@motatwo I understand what you’re saying. I’m not the only one who grew bicals this way, I got advise frompeople who raise their bicals here in TX. Other outdoors until temps of 60s before they get them indoors. There are other hobbyists that has shared their experiences that worked. I’ll do updates but as far as I can say they adapt to a wide variety of ranges in terms of temps and humidity. I respect your advise but that is not the only way.
@@motatwo their size is another thing that I’m planning for the future. But as you saw in the video, it took a while since I figured out how yo make them happy. So I think I have a couple more years to plan it out.
@@mokong4427 on that one, i was speaking to the other dude... highland and intermediate especially the cross are very adaptable, but low land way less, they really need to be hot and humid, so much so that you even can keep them in water without fearing root rot!
ive done tons of reashearch as alot of ppl will give bad advice that they think are good advice, ive tryed to help, but lets talk at your next update and my bical will be 3x the size of yours and 100% healty, even my mirabillis x rafflesiana would be kind of sad at 80f and its not an ultra lowland as bical is...
good luck!
you realise its way harder to heat water than air plus its your water that heat air....so its a very non efficient way to heat your tent, the good thing is as you said, it keep and add humidity...
with a simple 150w infrared heat lamp, i get mine at 93f, but be carefull not to burn them if lamp is too close and it burn humidity as a bad side, i counter it with humidifier and the bulb is only 20$cad and you can localise the heat
yeah, keep your air tight or it cool down the tent and you lose humidity and then the room is too humid...lol! keep your all in, put the fan so it move the air close to the substrate to prevent mold but keep all that heat and himidity in!!! i even picked forest moss that i putted around my pots so it look more natural and help keep humidity up, i even put extra drosera capensis seeds that i have in the moss, it look like it grow well even tough it must be full of minerals...lol but i dont care for those capensis, i was sure it wouldnt grow, but it did!
Good point. I ran this tent without plants for a month. It does warm up the tent gradually. When I was in the testing phase I found several factors that worked quite well in my situation. First the tent is small, so heating it up won’t take too long. Next, the 5 gallon tank is heated by a 100w aquarium heater that I used for my 40 breeder. So heating a 5 gallon did not take long. The light I bought from amazon produced a lot of heat, from the actual reviews from Amazon. And it does heat up the air that I opened the vent on top a little bit and even moved the fans to get better circulation. I did get molds on the bical pitchers and I was told in forums that it is due to the nectar that the pitchers produce. Not a big deal as long as it does not affect the plant. As for the humidity escaping into the room, so far I don’t find that an issue. The infra red light definitely is a good suggestion and will keep it in mind if ever I decide to get a bigger tent, cause I don’t think this method will work on a bigger tent.depending on what happens this winter, I might keep this setup permanent, our Texas summers are so harsh.
As for temperatures go, I targeted 85f and find to hot in a small space. So I dialed it down to 80F and so far I get the right humidity of around 75-80%. The bicals are still getting newer pitchers. So far so good.