I have a dual hybrid system (heat pump/natural gas) . One thing I recently learned was the only way you can tell which system is running is by watching your kws. I happen to have the Tesla app which monitors my kws. This is how I found out my unit was always operating on heat pump!
What about using a dual fuel system with zone control boards? Usually your zone control boards are for heat pump or gas. Can they still be set up to work with the dual fuel heat pump/gas system?
You left out the solar panel consideration: California has several areas with mild climates, and most homes use natural gas. We are also seeing a tidal wave of solar panels installed since homeowners are taking advantage of the rebates and tax incentives for going solar. In this situation, choosing a heat pump instead of a traditional condenser makes sense since the gas is only sometimes necessary. Additionally, many homeowners have only 100 amps capacity at the main circuit breaker panel, so the dual fuel/natural gas combo is a good choice since the furnace runs off 110v and draws fewer total amps than an all-electric HP system, especially when there's 50a breaker is dedicated to the electric car charger in the garage.
I have a hydrocoil in my handler. Debating between a ducted mitsubishi hyper heat with a matching handler connected to my hydrocoil or a bosch . Which one makes sense in the northeast?
Great video.. How about zone 5 rural Iowa with only propane available? Ive heard the newer dual fuel heat pumps like the Daikin Fit can operate in low temperatures. Or would bills be lower running a high efficiency 98% gas furnace converted to propane and conventional AC? Less whistles and bells to break down ie inverter motors.. Or do all 98% furnaces have variable speed motors now?
What if you're in the middle of the U.S. and want one of these new inverter cold climate heat pumps but are having trouble finding companies experienced with them?
Hey, Thanks for the video. Great Info, question I already have a heat pump setup, ball park how much would it cost me to add the furnace to my system. I’m In PA. Thanks
Thanks, Good info!!! Regarding your "through wall fan" vid, What do you do about the positive pressure to the room? (im guessing you ignore it because your only pumping approximately 100 cfm ) any info/advice is greatly appreciated. !
Interesting question. I think most interior rooms would benefit regardless. In other words a loop of air isn't a bad thing through the room anyway. I'd be concerned if the air being pulled doesn't have somewhere to go (like under a door)
I believe crappy return Ducts is why old 1930 Michigan homes like mine have bigger spaces under the bedroom doors. My house has heat Ducts in every bedroom upstairs but only has returns downstairs in the dining room end living room. But air can easily flow under rge doors and out into the hallway and down the stairs. I just recently had my 80,000btu 80% furnace replaced with a 70,000btu lennox 98.7% slp99v modulating furnace and I will say even with my crappy old ducting my house is still alot more comfortable and both my electric use and natural gas use has decreased. My usage should decrease even more when I have my walls injected with foam insulation soon
I do worry in the summer I may still have to use a window ac in my bedroom. I went with a air conditioner with a high seer rating and Variable speed compressor since I have a modulating furnace with a Variable speed blower and its like 50% more efficient than the seer 10 I had so I was hoping that now instead now instead of setting my ac at 80 in the summer to just keep my house cool enough my dogs weren't having heat strokes and using a window ac in my bedroom to keep it cooler so I can sleep now I should be able to set my whole house cooler and still save a little bit of money. But I wonder since heat rises and the thermostat is downstairs my bedroom will really be as cool as what I set the rest of my house for or if I'll still need a window ac. If I do still need a window unit I noticed they now make inverter ones with Variable capacity compressors so I will get one of them as well. But im hoping I won't need it
I'm from Québec and I'm checking to change to a furnace with natural gas and a heat pump..I'm waiting for all hvac guys to show up but the first one give me a estimate of almost 30k for all instal...I don't have duckt and no natural gas...so a think this is a reasonable price 🤷🏼♂️
That sounds really high. I'm not sure about exchange rate and currency value difference between Canada and US, but I just had a lennox 70,000btu slp99v modulating gas furnace and a Variable capacity el18xcv 3 ton ac unit installed for 11,195 USD I would think it should only be a few thousand more for a ac that is also a heat pump but I'm not 100% sure. You don't need a air handler I don't think because it uses the furnaces air handler
pierre -> have you looked into the dual energy program? You keep your furnace and add a heatpump, in exchange they give you an ultra-low electric rate when it is above -12c, below that a much higher rate. Run heatpump only when rate is low, switch to natural gas at -12c or higher. If you buy a conventional hp designed that looses capacity quick as it gets colder, would probably need to switch over before that point.
Nice video I learned some things, I personally rarely have come across dual fuel setups in my service area (also still a newer tech). Pretty much see NG furnace or boiler, or all electric. The few dual fuel setups I've seen seem inefficient, even on a slightly colder day still seems more cost effective to run gas furnace opposed to heat pump. Not too familiar with defrost in these applications, what is a good setting to lockout the heat pump (40 deg?). Having furnace coming on during a defrost cycle seems like a waste and short cycle potential.
@@virtual_bomber5698 True, my thinking in terms of defrost cycle being so short and gas furnace going through its normal sequence would the blower even run before defrost is terminated.
@@dmvhvactech That would probably happen if defrost is happening to quickly. I guess you could say on average it takes about 90 seconds from a call for heat to the blower running (gas furnace). If your defrost cycle is happening under that amount of time then usually there is a board/sensor issue (and possible refrigerant not at the correct charge). A good solid defrost will usually take a few minutes, unless it is really mild outside. I know you probably know these things, I’m just kind of thinking out loud.
I have a dual hybrid system (heat pump/natural gas) . One thing I recently learned was the only way you can tell which system is running is by watching your kws. I happen to have the Tesla app which monitors my kws. This is how I found out my unit was always operating on heat pump!
What about using a dual fuel system with zone control boards? Usually your zone control boards are for heat pump or gas. Can they still be set up to work with the dual fuel heat pump/gas system?
For about 3-4 months out of the year in the south I pay a-lot for gas heating so I may consider this regardless.
You left out the solar panel consideration: California has several areas with mild climates, and most homes use natural gas. We are also seeing a tidal wave of solar panels installed since homeowners are taking advantage of the rebates and tax incentives for going solar. In this situation, choosing a heat pump instead of a traditional condenser makes sense since the gas is only sometimes necessary. Additionally, many homeowners have only 100 amps capacity at the main circuit breaker panel, so the dual fuel/natural gas combo is a good choice since the furnace runs off 110v and draws fewer total amps than an all-electric HP system, especially when there's 50a breaker is dedicated to the electric car charger in the garage.
Thanks for the info. Especially the thought of heat rise being less with a heat pump.
Live in the midwest, local utility announced natural gas price will double this winter. Time for dual fuel?
If electric is reasonably priced yes. What utility is that?
Is it possible to add a furnace backup to an existing Heat Pump system that only has Heat Strips as the backup Heat Source?
Yes. You can replace the air handler with a furnace and coil.
Love your channel. Keep up the good work.
Thanks pal
I have a hydrocoil in my handler. Debating between a ducted mitsubishi hyper heat with a matching handler connected to my hydrocoil or a bosch . Which one makes sense in the northeast?
The Canada love it!
Great video.. How about zone 5 rural Iowa with only propane available? Ive heard the newer dual fuel heat pumps like the Daikin Fit can operate in low temperatures. Or would bills be lower running a high efficiency 98% gas furnace converted to propane and conventional AC? Less whistles and bells to break down ie inverter motors.. Or do all 98% furnaces have variable speed motors now?
This is exactly the setup I'm looking into for my house in northeast Ohio. I spent $3,000 in propane last year
Hello I live in Maryland which one do you recommend heat pump or gas furnes thanks
Depends on your home. Get a pros opinion 🙂
Another good video. May I ask does your experience with Daikin HVAC equipment continue to be favorable?
For the most part, they’ve been good.
@@NewHVACGuide So you have had some issues with them .
What if you're in the middle of the U.S. and want one of these new inverter cold climate heat pumps but are having trouble finding companies experienced with them?
I’ve heard of several markets that way. Where exactly are you located?
@@NewHVACGuide Southeast Nebraska
Gotcha. Someday those folks are gonna have to make the jump
Electricity is cheaper for me in Toronto Canada then natural gas. So dual fuel is a win in Canada here.
Hey, Thanks for the video. Great Info, question I already have a heat pump setup, ball park how much would it cost me to add the furnace to my system. I’m In PA. Thanks
Every market is different. I recommend getting several quotes.
Im in PA and have the opposite situation. Have propane and need the heatpump to reduce gas usage!
What dual fuel control do you prefer?
Usually the 8000 with sensor. But I’m trying to be more open minded lately. Just haven’t found anything I like better.
Thanks, Good info!!! Regarding your "through wall fan" vid, What do you do about the positive pressure to the room? (im guessing you ignore it because your only pumping approximately 100 cfm ) any info/advice is greatly appreciated. !
Interesting question. I think most interior rooms would benefit regardless. In other words a loop of air isn't a bad thing through the room anyway. I'd be concerned if the air being pulled doesn't have somewhere to go (like under a door)
I believe crappy return Ducts is why old 1930 Michigan homes like mine have bigger spaces under the bedroom doors. My house has heat Ducts in every bedroom upstairs but only has returns downstairs in the dining room end living room. But air can easily flow under rge doors and out into the hallway and down the stairs. I just recently had my 80,000btu 80% furnace replaced with a 70,000btu lennox 98.7% slp99v modulating furnace and I will say even with my crappy old ducting my house is still alot more comfortable and both my electric use and natural gas use has decreased. My usage should decrease even more when I have my walls injected with foam insulation soon
I do worry in the summer I may still have to use a window ac in my bedroom. I went with a air conditioner with a high seer rating and Variable speed compressor since I have a modulating furnace with a Variable speed blower and its like 50% more efficient than the seer 10 I had so I was hoping that now instead now instead of setting my ac at 80 in the summer to just keep my house cool enough my dogs weren't having heat strokes and using a window ac in my bedroom to keep it cooler so I can sleep now I should be able to set my whole house cooler and still save a little bit of money. But I wonder since heat rises and the thermostat is downstairs my bedroom will really be as cool as what I set the rest of my house for or if I'll still need a window ac. If I do still need a window unit I noticed they now make inverter ones with Variable capacity compressors so I will get one of them as well. But im hoping I won't need it
@@jeffreystaup9885 what a pickle. I did a zoning video that may help. Should be in the last several.
I'm from Québec and I'm checking to change to a furnace with natural gas and a heat pump..I'm waiting for all hvac guys to show up but the first one give me a estimate of almost 30k for all instal...I don't have duckt and no natural gas...so a think this is a reasonable price 🤷🏼♂️
I’m not sure on Canada prices pal
That sounds really high. I'm not sure about exchange rate and currency value difference between Canada and US, but I just had a lennox 70,000btu slp99v modulating gas furnace and a Variable capacity el18xcv 3 ton ac unit installed for 11,195 USD I would think it should only be a few thousand more for a ac that is also a heat pump but I'm not 100% sure. You don't need a air handler I don't think because it uses the furnaces air handler
pierre -> have you looked into the dual energy program? You keep your furnace and add a heatpump, in exchange they give you an ultra-low electric rate when it is above -12c, below that a much higher rate. Run heatpump only when rate is low, switch to natural gas at -12c or higher. If you buy a conventional hp designed that looses capacity quick as it gets colder, would probably need to switch over before that point.
Thank you
Nice video I learned some things, I personally rarely have come across dual fuel setups in my service area (also still a newer tech). Pretty much see NG furnace or boiler, or all electric. The few dual fuel setups I've seen seem inefficient, even on a slightly colder day still seems more cost effective to run gas furnace opposed to heat pump. Not too familiar with defrost in these applications, what is a good setting to lockout the heat pump (40 deg?). Having furnace coming on during a defrost cycle seems like a waste and short cycle potential.
It wouldn’t really be a waste, the furnace is just taking place of electrical heat during defrost so cold air doesn’t come out.
@@virtual_bomber5698 True, my thinking in terms of defrost cycle being so short and gas furnace going through its normal sequence would the blower even run before defrost is terminated.
@@dmvhvactech That would probably happen if defrost is happening to quickly. I guess you could say on average it takes about 90 seconds from a call for heat to the blower running (gas furnace). If your defrost cycle is happening under that amount of time then usually there is a board/sensor issue (and possible refrigerant not at the correct charge).
A good solid defrost will usually take a few minutes, unless it is really mild outside.
I know you probably know these things, I’m just kind of thinking out loud.
Depends on the setup. However, some heat pumps generate heat at much lower temperatures than they used to.
@@NewHVACGuide Yeah, look up Mitsubishi Minisplits with "Hyperheat". Kind of crazy.