SOLVED: Subaru WRX STI Failed Head Gasket after 18 Miles?
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- Опубликовано: 14 янв 2024
- My 2007 Subaru WRX STI went through an entire fresh build as we bought the car blown up. it ran great for 18 Miles then I wanted to return to the grave that I dug it out of. The STI Continues to overheat and the Thermostat will not open, at first, we tried vacuum bleeding it, Burping it, Swapping the thermostat, and more. Ultimately I decided to pull to the engine, and redeck the head, to get this thing sorted. We finally tracked down the issue and I am so glad to have this thing working again!
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Tanner! Bummer that you had an issue with the pump :(
Like Tanner mentioned, this is a first for us as well, so of course we have to go down the rabbit hole of figuring out what happened. We are in the process of getting the pump back, and will do a full diagnosis on what the issue may have been. Well also be going back to our vendor (who has made millions of these pumps, including the one in my STI) to work with them so it doesnt happen again. -Mark
This!
Personally I’ve used plenty of these pumps in the past with no issues at all. So this is a rare occurrence 🫡
No worries company 23, and thanks for actually coming to provide input here!!!!
Good call. I was having the same exact issues. But I don’t know if I had the same water pump (shop built the car)
Great to see you guys sending comments and making us feel better about your company we trust you guys as Subaru enthusiasts 👍
No process is perfect. It's all what you do after issue is found and you guys are doing all the right things. Especially getting it back and figuring out what is going on. Since there were bubbles, maybe some cavitation? Then again the heads were not super flat and some coolant was getting into the combustion chamber... it's a fun one. Good luck with the diagnosis!
moral of the story: stick with OEM water pump.
I’ve used those other pumps numerous times and have never had one fail out the box before. Can’t go wrong with OEM Though
Especially the parts being produced (rebuilt) now. Better to go OEM as they seem to have a lower failure rate. On my vehicles, I have a 30% failure rate on AutoZone and Rockauto parts in the last two years.
The company 23 is a japan made oe manufacturer water pump
Glad the pump problem was found and fixed, a lengthy process but suppose better safe than sorry. Respect the hard work you do. Showing the whole camera angles step by step, not easy I take it. Great work and stay warm my dude✌🏼.
Rather have this thing stay and be at 100% then have to jump back into it again 😅
Love the advice at the end. Don't give up, it's your car. It's not magic, there has to be something mechanically wrong and you will find it if you don't give up.
Eventually you will find the issue 😅
I’m glad it worked, I was praying it worked! I know the feeling and that is a lot of work to watch the temps still rise and up.. Keep inspiring us subie owners to do our own work!
Glad you were able to get it working and back together! Watching you work on these engines is so enjoyable. It's clear that you know them from top to bottom.
Taken a couple of them apart now 😅
I really enjoyed this video, gutted you had to go through all of that and it turned out just to be a water pump but at least you and everyone has learned from it and you ironed out the issues that would of played on your mind when driving it. Well done Tanner 👏
Amazing that you found the issue and basically did this all on your own. Love the content. You know your stuff. Mad respect all the way from Canada🇨🇦
Thank you Mika 🙌 the support is always appreciated 🥳🫡
I love watching these. I’m finally in the position to get back into one of these and these videos remind me of all the wonderful perks of Subaru ownership lol
Man this man pull that engine so fast. I know it’s sped up but damn he got it memorize
The excitement you had seeing that coolant temp going was definitely a road I've been down. Frustration definitely comes with it. Keep the content coming better
Glad to hear you found all the cooling problems.
Glad it got sorted, and i learned a lot through all of this. Thank you! I like the longer videos btw
Glad to be able to share 🎉 and the longer ones are nice every now and then🥳
That's why I love the channel.
Always transparent and willing to put in the work to get things done right. 💪🏼🔥 keep up the great work and content. 🚗 Subi power
Always appreciate the support my mans! I definitely try to show everything when doing this stuff 🙌🫡
Ok so….First off your videos are technically amazing. Second the positivity that you instill in the Subi community is second to none. Thanks for doing what you do it inspires people to do shit the correct way themselves and I have learned more about about my 02 GG than I ever thought possible.
Tanner is living the life...loving it!!
I am not a mechanic and I'm sorry you had to go through all that you did to fix this problem. I takes patience, skill, and precision, which you clearly have. You made a great video! Thank You.
Way to overcome! Glad to see you figured it out. Well done!
Thank you 🙌🫡
I was pulling for you at the end, was praying that it was the water pump. Something like that is very bothersome, especially when
you run out of things to try. you are probably lucky enough to catch the heads, and get the redecked. Glad it is fixed!
I was triple checking evvvvvverything going through this one. I did not want to have to go back in there again 😅 I’m hyped it’s finally fixed 🥳
great to see you found the issue.
Congrats. New huge fan here. I am learning a lot as a new Subaru owner.
Eyyyyy appreciate the support 🙌🫡
Called it! After a bazillion VWs, I’ve gotten really good at spotting water pump issues. Glad you got it sorted
I have the same issue. It makes the car seem like it’s a head gasket issue
Glad you got it sorted, thanks for the coil overs!
Anytime my man! Hyped that it finally works 😂
Your camera on the close up work looks awesome! The lighting is super too!
Thank you 🙌 tried making it a bit artsy 😅
Happy you could find it 😊😊
Keep up with the content 😎
I’m just hyped it’s finally fixed 😂 thing has been a pain in my ass lol
good job
wish i had the space and knownledge to do all this type of stuff to my subie.
time consuming but really rewarding doing stuff by yourself
Seems rare that a water pump would fail so quickly. Glad you solved the issue . Sorry you had to tear the block down again. It's a good day
I’ve never seen one fail that quickly before. Definitely not a common occurrence. But glad it’s sorted 😅
Best camera edit yet! Love it!
Eyyy thank you 🙌🫡
Almost right when I got home from work have a good week!
Have a good week Ryan 🙌🫡
Took a lot of work but great job! So nice being able to have the knowledge of doing these things yourself. Someone else would have been out a couple thousand dollars to get this sorted out.
Definitely, that’s why I try to put out as many of the DIY videos as I can for people to hopefully try and save em some $$$$
Sometimes its the simplest things that give the most trouble Happy you found the issue
Seriously, I’m just hyped it finally works 😂😅
@@Smeedia I can relate to the feeling 😄. Been working on them for over 15 years and they can be pretty problematic. Waits patiently for the next step in this 07 journey 😎
I just got caught up with your videos but it has happened to me with a fresh build. I had to stay at 4k rpm to keep my cooling temp down during summer. Wish I commented on your previous video sooner. I had an oem one but with a bad bearing. I thought my thermostat was stuck closed. pretty much step by step, I just didn't rip my motor apart since I had a my heads done.
This was a very therapeutic video for us viewers. I cant say the same for you though 😅. Thanks for keeping it real with us!
Not too bad to do anymore, definitely a frustrating little issue to have to deal with 😅
Absolute legend, too few people are afraid to admit any failings or mistakes, always refreshing to see. (not that this was one of those)
Always super educational and in depth, you are the David Attenborough of the car world, always speaking truth and always ensuring correct usage of we know or we think etc, could watch/rewatch your content for days non stop and not be bored or even remotely disinterested.
Always appreciate the support Josh. I’ll always show my short comings, failures etc. if my shortcoming helps someone else avoid the same issue I’m game. 😅
Glad to see it going back together, good call on milling the heads
Felt better about cleaning up those low spots while the heads were off. Don’t wanna have to do it again 😅
@@Smeedia don’t blame you a lot of work
Bravo sir! Thanks for documenting the journey...
Thanks Rick, definitely try and share everything to try and help others with similar issues 🙌
Long video, good video. Good on you for going overkill this time. Let's get this puppy rippin!!!!
Ain’t no way I wanna rip this thing apart again. So triple checked evvvverything
Good tunes and engine building.
My kinda ASMR 😎
🙌🎶🎶🎶
Any part OEM or aftermarket can have issues, there is QC measure but on big quantities full inspection can happen every 50-100 parts or more if no issues are found in full inspected parts. It’s all about diagnosing symptoms & sometimes there are more than 1 issue at play. Patients and open mind like you were got the job done.
We used to do the same thing in aerospace when I was an inspector. We would QC “X” number of parts and if that number checked out. We would send em all. Even though 1 or 2 could have issues. (Obviously non essential parts)
Just hyped it’s fixed 🙌
Hellz yeah man! I sear every time I watch videos like this you make me motivated to fix my GD .... Then I remember I'm broke lol So it sits in garage until I can lol
Ahhh! Nothing more enjoyable than seeing that wiggle pin on the thermostat.
Gotta play with it a bit 😂
Hey Tanner, i remember there being issues with the cast impeller(the one that looks like it has blades) on water pumps not flowing well in wrx's/sti's/fxt compared to the wheel type water pump. Just another thing to look into.
You made short work of that but like you said you need to diagnose before you go mental your a top Subaru mechanic lovely work
Wanted to get this knocked out asap 🙌🫡
Looking forward to the vacuum leak diagnosis video!
Should be in the next few days 🫡
I called ittttttttttt, glad you got it fixed dude!
I was bamboozled to find a new water pump doing that. But hyped it’s fixed 🙌
@@Smeedia true words man! I feel like the propeller shaft may be spinning inside the bearing or something to that affect
Hey, i always take a brand new out of the box thermostat and start a pot of water on the stove and drop the thermostat in and with an instant read thermometer verify the opening temp and to make sure it even works, had an old guy tell me about this trick once and always blew him off till i had a problem with a jeep low and behold went through 3 brand new one because they didnt even open
I knew it was the water pump lol. I commented that on the last video, but I do understand you wanting to deck the heads as well, can't blame you there! Also i'm still promoting doing the seat belt chime disable lol So easy to do takes 30 seconds
I’ve got some aftermarket seats on the way so we will be doing away with that chime here soon 😅
Tbh I would not have thought that a new pump would cause it. But learn something new everyday 😅
We love these tiny issues causing big problems
Aren’t they the best? 😂
Dosent matter if it take a day or a week to fix it. Fix is fix😅
Glad you are now able to enjoy it🚀
🚗💥💨🔥
14 degrees?! Yikes. I'm over here whining over our 30 degree weather in socal hehe.
You know you're like a doctor, all this looks so complicated but you make it look so easy! Goodjob Dr. Tanner 😂
I wish we were at 30*, finally almost above freezing today 😂
Probably gonna stick to oem. Not sure why we need aftermarket ones if they do the same job. Nice job subie fam!
Well at least it made you resurface the head and change the head gaskets. Those could have given you bigger problems if you had gone on to tune it with Bader with those problems unresolved.
OEM water pumps ftw. I stopped using replacements when I had the same experience.
May be same reason us RB engine people have overheating issues with daily. Using the "upgraded" N1 water pump designed to flow more at higher rpms so engine can seem to overheat at idle when hot but not when driving. So most people go back to stock pump and it's more street able. Compare design of impeller from stock to upgraded one you have
My quad four cavalier is doing the exact same thing at 155k. It’s never had the timing chain or water pump changed. I tested for exhaust gasses and the head gasket appears to be fine. It happens randomly but only appears to do it when it’s cold outside. Same deal no flow cold radiator at idle but when it’s hot outside it has no issues.
Good job, love the videos man....
Thanks Jean, always appreciate the support 🙌🫡
I admire your work.
I appreciate your support Miguel 🫡
07 STI is my absolute favorite. I had an 07 STI and I had an 06WRX but that 07 was the white guitar in Wayne’s world for me and I put a whole shit load of money in it and she broke my heart several times over, but if I ever had a chance I’d build another one and I have UB and the guy to help me build that bitch because she I know she be nasty it be that An Tain type of thing where you buy one that’s absolutely perfect and then you still take it completely disassemble, it put it on a rotisserieand spend like 250 K on it I mean if I could, of course, either way man you’re doing an outstanding job on your channel I am subscribed, and I will continue to watch your magic be made with a love of Subaru in mind
Another hurdle! You just attack problems until you defeat them. Good on you not giving up!
I despise having cars sitting not working. If it’s within my power to make em work, we will 😅
So this has me thinking about what might be the real problem with my v6 sti. My rad has fins that are leaking, but in the video, you mentioned the cooling system being open. When i burp my car, the temp gauge on the dash reads right about what normal should be. But after i burp it and let it run for about 5 minutes, the gauge will rise. I'll wait till the next morning, and I'll add extra coolant to the surge tank, and that will help my temps stay lower a bit longer, but they eventually still get pretty high. I do have an aftermarket gauge i need to install, as well as stock rad i got from a buddy since the rad i bought for replacement went on back order after purchasing. What confuses me is that the leak is so small. Even after a week, there's still very minimal coolant loss. Like, im just about a third of the way through a jug of coolant in over 2 months. When opening the cooling system to burp it, the temps are normal, but when throwing that cap back on, the temps rise within 5 minutes. I can understand there is air getting in the system. That's why i burp it so frequently, but at idle, immediately after burping and closing the system, temps rise. Im hoping it's just the rad, but something has me feeling it's possibly something else.
I have the same car. It’s happened to me multiple times. The problem is that the coolant temp sensor is on the top and it gets a small pocket of space that has air trapped until the first time the thermostat opens. The car then shows a much higher temp than the coolant is on the very bottom and does not open yet because the temp to open isn’t being seen from the thermostat. Still do not let it over heat on the gauge ever so shut it off let cool for 5 min and start again because it takes time for the temp to be passed from the metal of the engine to the fluid in the coolant channel. By the third start it should work. This happens on this car every time I pull the motor which has been 20+ times and since I figured this out I can get it to work correctly every
single time.
we do disassembly in a little different of an order. I would take the exhaust manifold off first, then the heads, then the pan last. I would however, forget to put the oil catch on the ground during all of it
I try to let as much of the oil and coolant drain out as I can. I’ve made so many messes 😂 we all got our rhythm for it 🙌
Oh man, and the attention to prep work you do, just cleaning the headstud washers off with brake clean alone. Top Notch.
I remember posting this on your last video, i am glad it was the water pump in the end and my theory was right
@MrBadIntent
7 days ago
I would personally check the Water Pump, sounds weird i know but i have had issue before where the car would just get really hot and when revving it would cool down again and turned out that the water pump was not pushing water through properly while under idle and low revs, replaced it and sorted issue
evo boys gonna have a field day with this one
Will they though? 👀
You should keep coffee filters handy for cleaning. A lot cheaper than shop towels
Woohoo! Glad it's fixed.
Sameeeeee 🙌🙌🙌
It lives!
She livesssss healthy this time 😂
loving the videos tanner! just curious i’ve been watching you’re videos now for a while and i don’t think i’ve ever seen you install head studs after putting the head on is there benefits? or is it all the same?
The only reason I did it that time was to make it a bit easier to put the ARP lube on the stud threads 😅 wayyyy easier that way
Bro I called it ! I told you my STI was having the same problem and I was pretty sure it was the water pump.
You were indeed spot on 😅🙌
I am officially your car wizard master now and you must listen to my advice moving forward. 😂😂
Do i win a prize for calling a bad water pump in the earlier video?!😂 Glad you sorted it and impressive work ripping all that out so quickly.
I got a jet tag with your name on it if you want it 😅
Niceeeee. Glad you figured it out.
The little issues are always the worst ones 😅
@@Smeedia indeed
Yay my thinking was correct, at idle the water pump ain’t spinning fast enough to flow water, but as revs increase the pump gets faster allowing to circulate water correctly
I never noticed but that water pump had a whine to it as well, I had always thought it was that alternator
@@Smeedia I would have thought alternator too over a brand new water pump. We are only human. Glad you got this sorted 👍👍 now please tell me why my ej20 out of a 2002 prodrive sti only lasted 800km after a full forged rebuild, I used ACL bearings in rebuild that failed but second build I used all oem Subaru bearings and it was faultless
@@Andrew_kiwi_AFcan’t speak too much on ACL, I’ve ordered some bearings before from them and got some bad sets. Typically I always use King
@@Smeediawhen I ordered the acl sets I just requested for 2002 sti, not stating its pro drive, I believe the bearing clearances are ever so slightly different. It was machined by well known shop. To this day it’s a mind fuck lol at least the ecu shut engine down and I rolled to the side of the road before to much damage but this is what I get for trying to push things time wise. Had all the good stuff, cp pistons, Eagle rods, arp studs, sard injectors, sard fuel pressure regulator, Walbro fuel pump, 10mm braided fuel lines with custom rails and split rail set up, link ecu, custom
Intake with pod filter in guard, the turbo had been free flowed with bigger compressor wheel, I actually took the headers off and put factory ones back on gained power on dyno. First run
In tune was 910nm torque with 245kw at all 4. 5 ppl in 6th gear I would just stand on it up hill and wind off the clock. Oh how I miss power lol
EJ257 are head gasket eater! Guys, stay on 2.1L or 2.35L strokers and you do not have to worry about head gaskets
Glad you figured it out. Sounds like you got a taste of real winter too😅
It be COLD COLD 🥶
@@Smeedia that's shorts weather in Minnesota
I got like 4 layers on 💀🥶
@@Smeedia it's -27 with the windchill here but it's amazing what you can build a tolerance too
It was -7 air temp in Wisconsin this morning I dont want to hear it :D@@Smeedia
How much feed back knock is still good lol and when do I need to worry
Heck yes . Eventually hopefully this spring i will be sending off my assembled block to Outfront to have them do 1/2" headstuds so i can then get this Legacy GT on the Road and enjoy it. Since it has been sitting with out a motor for over 10yrs.
10 Years?! 😮 that puppy needs to come back 🔥
@@Smeedia yes sir. It's a fully built motor ,closed deck ,9:8.1 pistons,pinned mains ,BC I Beams +625,+1mm BC Valves,BC Retainers and Springs. BC272 cams,still deciding on turbo currently have a Garrett 5857 but I think it's too small for what I want to do. May do a 6266 or a new g Series Garret
Go 6466 and don’t look back 👀
@@Smeedia what you thinking a 1.01 housing V band . ? If so who has the best pricing on one.
@@lgt304the bigger the better IMO helps with back pressure and flow I run a 1.18? (Largest they offer for my turbo) on the H6
Thanks!
Appreciate the support Rick 🙌🥳
when you shave some metal of the heads do you need account for by using a thicker head gasket or something? or is that amount to small to make a difference? Thanks, love your vids!
I saw you didn’t have the washer seals on the bolts for the valve cover gaskets. Do you not need those on an ej25? Asking as I have reused old washer seals but if you don’t need them on an ej20 sweet. Keep up the work mate. Loving the content
Correct, EJ20/25 does not need them. My EG33 does have the washer seals for the valve cover. Some engines use em, some don’t 🫡
Thanks heaps and when you were building oil pressure, what was that fuse it looked you you plugged in? Is that an external fuse for the fuel pump as you’re hardwired?
I think the Water Pump impeller wasn't pressed onto the shaft to the correct position, which would cause the operation of the impeller to be inefficient i.e. if the clearances of the impeller isn't right in the Pump cavity/housing, it's ability to function correctly. I bet when Company 23 get the pump, they will find that the impeller has either been pressed to far onto, or not enough onto the shaft. At least you fixed it tho! Great!
That’s similar to what I was thinking, the impeller shaft was the only noticeable difference I could spot between the OEM Pump and the C23. The C23 protruded about 1/4” where OEM Was flush
@@Smeedia ah, there you go ...I was hoping that you might've compared the pumps. Do let us know what C23 gets back to you with as an answer. Cheers! Really enjoying your content mate!
We are definitely going to figure out what happened!
I have come across a similar issue with a Toyota, the vehicle was overheating with an aftermarket pump, replaced with an OEM pump. Problem solved.
Issue was incorrect position of the impeller on the shaft. Was causing cavitation in the water pump.
@@Smeedia That would totally cancel out the anti cavitating effect of the disc behind the impellar, it needs to be flush or it it will cause cavitation/air at low rpm. Very unlikely to happen with oem quality control...stock STI water pumps tolerances are good for well past 120,000 miles
Hey man, been watching you for a long time. This is an interesting issue. I was having a similar issue with my 12 wrx, but my issue was resolved when I changed thermostat and upgraded to a mishi rad and did cylinder 4 mod. But I had a question...why is it even getting up to 200s in temp with ambient Temps being so low? It's been between 30s and high 40s here in oregon and mine won't go higher than 180-185. I usually only see the 200s when it's summer. Any thoughts on that? Just chop it up to different years and tolerances, mods etc or? 🤔
Main difference between our builds(that i can see) is im still stock block and turbo and yours is built and GS turbo. But besides that i have every other bolton etc you can do.
Man... I've been watching thing cuz for the past week or two, my temps have been hitting 210-212. I know it's not supposed to go over 205-207, I've been concerned, but not freaking because it's only a few degrees, buuuut today I hit 230...
I don't have bubbling coolant in the overflow, no chocolate milkshake, it hits high when I'm driving, not at standstill, my timing belt, thermostat and water pump were replaced by the dealer maybe 2 years ago, zero issues that time.
It'll go down, it's cold here too, it went from like 231 to 172 lol. I'm at the point where I think I somehow introduced air into the system and I'm finally at a point where I got a couple hours to let it cool, then bleed it. I got one of those funnels too, so at least I just gotta mostly stand there lol. Hopefully this is it... or a thermostat.. not my damn HG, but MLS HGs and it's mostly stock..
Interesting i had a gates water pump fail on me and start to leak on a brand new build in less than 500 miles , replaced with another gates pump and its been great since going on 20k miles now
Bro, what is Soo odd is I have a Company23 water pump on my wife's 05 Fozzy and it's doing the same thing and now I'm curious if that pump ends up being part of the problem as well. Very interesting.
this video was amazing
Thanks duuuuude 🥳😂
Said in the last video sounded more like a water pump, had a similar issue on a different platform, but still the same situation.
I’m surprised seeing a bad pump straight out the box. But good to know going forward of symptoms of a new pump failure
@@Smeediayeah. When you was revving it, and it was dropping, but going up at idle, my brain said, oh, that 1986 2m6 fiero did that when the water pump was failing lol. Took me back in time to college in the 90s. Lol. Glad to see it sorted, sometimes a part gets through QC, probably made on a Friday.
The stress is real!! GG
POV: Saturday mornings in the 90's.. "Previously on X-Men"
Good to know this is fixed. I hate the nagging feeling of unsolved issues lol
I was starting to slowly loose my mind on that one 😅
Do you think the heads would have been and issue later if you had just replaced the pump?
"nobody will fix your car unless you do" Bro, I want to fix my car. When I finished my rebuild I was disappointed that I had nothing left to do. (un?)lucky for me I ran into a few issues lately so I guess the universe solved that complaint.
100% yes, I found trace amounts of burnt coolant on the pistons so that only would have gotten worse over time.
The universe listening to ya 😅
My buddy had a crazy overheating problem on his 02 wrx. He replaced the radiator, the water pump 2x, the thermostat 3x, and a bunch of coolant hoses. We finally figured out how to fix it, selling it to Subaru 🤣🤣
I mean that is one way to fix the problem 😂
Those exhaust manifold covers are pretty sick! Never seen those before. Do you own the entire Company23 catalog now?
I think I’ve got all of their tools at this point 😅
Knew you would trouble shoot it🎉🎉🎉... side note you check/update the merch site often?
Have new designs being done now 🫡 so should be updating soon
Hey man, adjustable Cam are recommended since both side are machines, TDC can be off(
Potentially)
Only need the adjustable idlers if the heads have been decked multiple times. Around .007”+ total material removed
I only use OEM parts on these cars, Everything made today after Covid is a crap shoot with specs and function, The radiator not dissipating heat while stopped will have these issues to until air starts to flow past it while driving
It’s funny that 207 is when your fans kick on. My car doesn’t hit fans until 221 (not a wrx).
I had this exact same issue, and i changed the thermostat sensor, and it stopped the issue. idk the water pump fixed it...i would drive my car, and it would stay just fine, but sitting the sensor would not tell the fans to turn on
Interesting, I’ve never seen one of the sensors go out before on these.
good videos, I always watch everything related to Subaru, it would be a great idea if you could build the engine of my Subaru
We do builds for people 🙌🫡
I’m having a similar issue but with my heater. Car blows regular air on idle but I drive and it’s back to hot. System burped, thermostat replaced, no leaks, no over heating. I was thinking heater core but now I saw your video now making me think it’s water pump, did you had heater problems when over heating?
Sorted ! But what happened to that washer/bolt/nut that fell into the oil-pan ?
I got it out 😅 had to take the pan back off again to get it lol
If the combustion chamber / top of piston has no carbon carbon but others have then its an indication that coolant has been leaning into that cylinder ... I never thought it was head gasket issue.... I've had a similar issue with a water pump failure where the impeller was slipping on the shaft
There was carbon, but there was also an excessive amount of goo in 2 & 4 and smelt like burnt coolant. I don’t think it was a massssssive leak but I think it would have got worse over time
Interesting issue glad it was resolved. Also every time you pull the motor you make it look so easy. I wish to learn the subie engines and be as good as you.
After you do a couple they get suuuuuuuuuper easy I promise 🫡