That’s the right way to do it. It’s a bigger deal for the N14. The N18 will need it but less frequently. Run them on the highway always use 93. No short trips. It’ll reduce the frequency on walnut blasting. Keep up with oil and plugs. Honestly I go early on them. The Mini Cooper S says 10k for oil 8k after some miles. I do it every 5k. Spark plugs are 60k. I change them at 30k. Only iridium. If you take a road trip. Consider running a lower gear. It’ll help burn some carbon out (be mindful of the turbo and valves when you do this). I always idle for 10+ minutes at the end and last few miles drive normally to allow the turbo to cool. Cokeing is something you don’t want. Drive it hard every-once in awhile. But be graceful with it. It’ll buy some time. High Octane. You absolutely have to do this with Direct Inject. The Gas never touches the back of the valve. Your asking for it with lower octanes. Techron from Walmart is cheap too. It won’t help with the back of the valve. But running it once in awhile wouldn’t hurt. That’s Minis formula. Just rebranded Techron. Ultimately it’ll come to walnut blasting and it’s not cheap.
csllover Thanks! Direct Inject has its benefits. Performance wise. But comes with the Carbon cons and inability to clean easily. Theirs a few things you can do during ownership to buy time. Walnut Blasting is unavoidable these days especially on the Mini. Even the dealers have chimed in with the method. Figured I’d post so people would take it more seriously. Plenty of mechanics unfamiliar with walnut blasting but it’s a real thing and is becoming more common especially on the German car. AutoLogic showed everything correctly. Have to have the correct adapters which varies from car to car to do it etc. People that get it done say 60k or later probably see a performance gain as well (HP). But people needing walnut blasting at early mileage or having misfires due to carbon early are probably infrequent on oil changes not using high octane and on short trips etc. So I figured it was worth mentioning what I know about the cars etc.
Remember if you don’t a walnut blasting machine then you can do it manually just the same, you need carbon remover and degreaser etc, use rags and licks to work away at the carbon, blow it out with air and inspect... repeat process
@@aycarambas 1 year late reply but it’s pretty easy to set TDC, you just need to remove the spark plug and put something long like a screwdriver into the spark plug hole so it touches the top of the piston then slowly rotate the engine by hand, it’s at top dead centre once the screwdriver reaches its highest point before it starts to drop down again.
Hi, can anyone confirm which side the intake manifold support bracket fastener is located? On other videos they're either removing the wheel liner and using extended bars to get to it or using a mirror to get to a bolt much lower down. Thx
You don't need to take wheel off, that is silly. The 10mm bolt is accessed from the passenger side. Find it with your finger, put a long 1/4" socket on it then the ratchet afterwards ( I have a ratchet without the detent ball ) then undo. It's easy. This guy who goes thru the wheel well is awfully silly, it's not even that hard to get to.
@@denniscanon1558 Please accept my apology for the delay! I someone looped back to this video. It is basically a drinking bottle and an harbor freight air gun and harbor freight coarse walnuts. A big plus if you have a compressor with you too and the N54 Vacuum Blaster Adapter. You can reuse the walnut blaster over and over as well. This is the video I watched and replicated it. So you don't need anything fancy at all. I found the video of the blaster: ruclips.net/video/k6L_ArXCbYs/видео.html
Welding Junkie, buyer beware if you haven't purchased one of these trust me stay away. Any mini with an R56 engine you will have leaks like crazy. The parts they used in this engine can not handle the temp of the engine, the seals will go bad. Unless you like spending a ton of money and have plenty of time don't do it.
@@garybrnt87 If I had to do it all over, I wouldn't. A piece broke off an exhaust valve for me. I am still in the middle of the rebuild. The R56 N14 will fail and it will.
I feel your pain, I finally let my wife convince me into letting it go a few weeks ago. Very fun to drive, a lot of folks like them but never ever again. good luck on the rebuild.
![BLACK BAG - Official Trailer [HD] - Only in Theaters March 14](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Du0Xp8WX_7I/mqdefault.jpg)
That’s the right way to do it. It’s a bigger deal for the N14. The N18 will need it but less frequently.
Run them on the highway always use 93. No short trips. It’ll reduce the frequency on walnut blasting. Keep up with oil and plugs. Honestly I go early on them. The Mini Cooper S says 10k for oil 8k after some miles. I do it every 5k. Spark plugs are 60k. I change them at 30k. Only iridium.
If you take a road trip. Consider running a lower gear. It’ll help burn some carbon out (be mindful of the turbo and valves when you do this). I always idle for 10+ minutes at the end and last few miles drive normally to allow the turbo to cool. Cokeing is something you don’t want.
Drive it hard every-once in awhile. But be graceful with it. It’ll buy some time. High Octane. You absolutely have to do this with Direct Inject. The Gas never touches the back of the valve. Your asking for it with lower octanes.
Techron from Walmart is cheap too. It won’t help with the back of the valve. But running it once in awhile wouldn’t hurt. That’s Minis formula. Just rebranded Techron.
Ultimately it’ll come to walnut blasting and it’s not cheap.
This is great advice, especially the parts about higher octane and more frequent oil changes. These are vital.
csllover Thanks! Direct Inject has its benefits. Performance wise. But comes with the Carbon cons and inability to clean easily. Theirs a few things you can do during ownership to buy time. Walnut Blasting is unavoidable these days especially on the Mini. Even the dealers have chimed in with the method. Figured I’d post so people would take it more seriously. Plenty of mechanics unfamiliar with walnut blasting but it’s a real thing and is becoming more common especially on the German car.
AutoLogic showed everything correctly. Have to have the correct adapters which varies from car to car to do it etc.
People that get it done say 60k or later probably see a performance gain as well (HP). But people needing walnut blasting at early mileage or having misfires due to carbon early are probably infrequent on oil changes not using high octane and on short trips etc. So I figured it was worth mentioning what I know about the cars etc.
Kristopher Sullivan Oil catch can or two is a valuable asset to these engines
what mileage (in miles) do you recommend walnut blasting for the N14 engine? thanks
how come its less of an issue for N18? did they block off the breather hose going to intake manifold?
Where do you get the adaptor for the vacuum Part number would be great too !
like everyone has a walnut blaster on hand
Seth Does Nothing there like $30 on eBay
I was surprised how cheap they were
Welding Junkie isn’t it expensive to have it done at a shop? I heard around $1000
No shit lol ugg
No kidding there’s got to be another way other than walnut blast
How do you close the valves? Can't find any information about this anywhere
You have to turn the crank pulley bolt clockwise
So far you guys have the best prices. I just called a place in Culver City and they charge 785$ what a rip off!! You guys are nearly half that!
Great video, it's clear and shows the results well.
will the build up allow the motor to knock
Yes
Remember if you don’t a walnut blasting machine then you can do it manually just the same, you need carbon remover and degreaser etc, use rags and licks to work away at the carbon, blow it out with air and inspect... repeat process
How can you verify your valves are closed before proceeding? How do you set to TDC?
@@aycarambas 1 year late reply but it’s pretty easy to set TDC, you just need to remove the spark plug and put something long like a screwdriver into the spark plug hole so it touches the top of the piston then slowly rotate the engine by hand, it’s at top dead centre once the screwdriver reaches its highest point before it starts to drop down again.
Hello, Where are you located? How much does this clean up cost? I'm having this problem. Thanks.
Hi, can anyone confirm which side the intake manifold support bracket fastener is located? On other videos they're either removing the wheel liner and using extended bars to get to it or using a mirror to get to a bolt much lower down. Thx
You don't need to take wheel off, that is silly. The 10mm bolt is accessed from the passenger side. Find it with your finger, put a long 1/4" socket on it then the ratchet afterwards ( I have a ratchet without the detent ball ) then undo. It's easy. This guy who goes thru the wheel well is awfully silly, it's not even that hard to get to.
Is there any other thing to do than the walnut blast?
No...
What about 505
Update. Cable tie bundle and wd40 worked for me also. Blow out resulting sludge. Fit catch can $20 ebay. Put seafoam in motor oil.
@@ArieteArmsRAMLITEthank you
@@ArieteArmsRAMLITEthank You!
Easy stuff! Squeeky cleaned the valves in my R56 for about $30.
How? Can you explain further your methods. Thanks.
@@denniscanon1558 Please accept my apology for the delay! I someone looped back to this video. It is basically a drinking bottle and an harbor freight air gun and harbor freight coarse walnuts. A big plus if you have a compressor with you too and the N54 Vacuum Blaster Adapter. You can reuse the walnut blaster over and over as well. This is the video I watched and replicated it. So you don't need anything fancy at all. I found the video of the blaster: ruclips.net/video/k6L_ArXCbYs/видео.html
ONCE YOU HAVE DONE THIS.CHECK EVERY OTHER COMPONENT TOO!.BOUGHT A COOPER S FOR A BIT OF FUN..WORST USED BUY EVER!!!.
Chrisuk 1960 why do you say that? I was gonna buy a used cooper to fix up?
Welding Junkie, buyer beware if you haven't purchased one of these trust me stay away. Any mini with an R56 engine you will have leaks like crazy. The parts they used in this engine can not handle the temp of the engine, the seals will go bad. Unless you like spending a ton of money and have plenty of time don't do it.
@@garybrnt87 If I had to do it all over, I wouldn't. A piece broke off an exhaust valve for me. I am still in the middle of the rebuild. The R56 N14 will fail and it will.
I feel your pain, I finally let my wife convince me into letting it go a few weeks ago. Very fun to drive, a lot of folks like them but never ever again. good luck on the rebuild.
@@strongme80 Walnut blasting alone will not break a valve
Omg that’s a lot
Just get the head off and do it properly
Poor directions really.... waste of time on this video imo, I’d try another
This video has some of the best directions on any car video I've seen. What are you talking about? Lol
Andrew Jackson lol,🤦♂️ go watch Mod Mini...you’ll see how directions are done on everything he does and says....