Great instructional video! Very good advice to use only the replacement sections that you need. This way everything stays in the correct location. Just because you've purchased a full replacement panel doesn't mean that you need to use it all.
Sam, you and the crew make it look a lot easier by taking specific repair areas one at a time. It's a lot less intimidating now to those of us who don't have the broad knowledge base for repairing such as of yet. Thanks for sharing and keep up the great video work.
Great job! Thought about doing a similar repair on mine, but when I found that it was completely broken off under the napoleon hat, decided to weld in a new frame head.
What rust converter spray brand do you recommend? Also, what brand and settings were you using for your welder? I know each make model and type of welder is different, I was just curious. Thanks! I’d be lost without your videos!!
For rust converter, what ever happens to be in stock or close by. Rustoleum seems to be the most prevalent. Corroseal is a better option but isn't commonly found in stores. I have a 20 year old Miller 175 and use initial settings that are listed on the lid and adjust as needed from there. Rusty old metal usually takes a little less heat and a little more wire than recommended but adjust accordingly.
You mean just like we say in the description? "While we were replacing the floor pans in our 1971 Super Beetle we also had to repair the front frame head support. This area is often referred to as the “Napoleon’s Hat” understandably. While we could have cut off the entire section as we did have the replacement, our tech prefers patching in the ends. Follow along as he cuts out and repairs the ends of our Super Beetle chassis."
Great instructional video! Very good advice to use only the replacement sections that you need. This way everything stays in the correct location. Just because you've purchased a full replacement panel doesn't mean that you need to use it all.
Absolutely, just because you CAN, doesn't mean you SHOULD!
Sam, you and the crew make it look a lot easier by taking specific repair areas one at a time. It's a lot less intimidating now to those of us who don't have the broad knowledge base for repairing such as of yet. Thanks for sharing and keep up the great video work.
It is our pleasure, thanks for the encouragement!
Great job! Thought about doing a similar repair on mine, but when I found that it was completely broken off under the napoleon hat, decided to weld in a new frame head.
So much better than replacing the whole frame head.
I think so, keep as much of the German steel as possible!
What rust converter spray brand do you recommend? Also, what brand and settings were you using for your welder? I know each make model and type of welder is different, I was just curious. Thanks! I’d be lost without your videos!!
For rust converter, what ever happens to be in stock or close by. Rustoleum seems to be the most prevalent. Corroseal is a better option but isn't commonly found in stores.
I have a 20 year old Miller 175 and use initial settings that are listed on the lid and adjust as needed from there. Rusty old metal usually takes a little less heat and a little more wire than recommended but adjust accordingly.
Nice! 👏👏
This isn't the frame head. It is the Napoleon Hat or front chassis cross member.
You mean just like we say in the description?
"While we were replacing the floor pans in our 1971 Super Beetle we also had to repair the front frame head support. This area is often referred to as the “Napoleon’s Hat” understandably. While we could have cut off the entire section as we did have the replacement, our tech prefers patching in the ends. Follow along as he cuts out and repairs the ends of our Super Beetle chassis."
First viewer 👍🏿