Yes! Thanks for posting this video. I cleaned my throttle body and it started making this noise. So I took the battery terminal off to clear the memory and then restored power. I turned the key to the on position to let the throttle body sweep. Then I started my truck and let it idle for 30 minutes and it relearned the idle setting and the noise went away! Thanks again!
That clicking Is loud because I was doing my oil change yesterday and when I turn it on it was making that noise that I thought it might be the belt tensioner or maybe one of the pulleys bearing going bad but I’m glad someone made a video because that would have been a nightmare to find.
I’m a mechanic. My friend just came over with his 2017 f150. He called me and said that he was hearing engine knock. And when he came over I opened the hood and I heard that knocking or ticking sound and I could tell it was coming from the throttle body. And when I saw this video that’s exactly how it sounded. It has to be this because the moment I heard it my hand went straight to the throttle body. Great vid. Thanks.
You’re the man. Just had to replace my intake tube and heard this for the first time and it kinda freaked me out, got on the tube and found your video. Appreciate it man.
You the man! Thank you so much for posting this video! I just got a 2016 5.0 and it has this exact issue. I narrowed it down to the throttle body and searched on RUclips and found your video. So relieved now! Will remove intake hose to verify, but this is definitely it! Cheers from Sweden!
294k on my 2015 5.0L. Runs great WITH that randon tick exactly as it is heard here. I thought it was a typical Ford lifter. Now I know where to look. Awesome find - well done to this content creator, and even better that you shared it. I haven't seen it discussed accurately ANYWHERE else. Your video, friend, is the only one I have seen showing the origin of this noise. You should charge admission!
So I'm at 299k miles now and mine is NOT the throttle body. It is most assuredly a rod bearing knocking. I'll swap rod bearings this summer by dropping the pan with the engine still in the truck. It's not fun, but it's just a weekend and not much money (180 bucks with the bearings, oil, and pan gasket) and I will likely drive it a few years afterward with no issue. For what it's worth and for anyone interested, rod bearings (and their knock) are down low, down in the oil pan. They have a distinct knock that sounds like two plastic screwdriver handles banging together repeatedly. While a harmless upper engine tick sounds like the metal shafts of the same two screwdrivers hitting each other. Again: Handles banging together is the rod knock sound. Metal shafts clicking together is the upper engine sound and harmless, usually. Best to you- J
@KollynJ So, dropped oil pan, pulled rod caps, and found perfect FoMoCo rod bearings all the way around. Zero wear and like new. Also checked wrist pins (moved rods up and down looking for pin play) and there was none. No scoring of cylinders seen from underneath and no damage apparent to bottom skirts of pistons. Changed rod bearings since they were out (back in with Ford brand) and now running the engine with valve covers off to listen with stethoscope. But tick/knock is only when engine is warm. I'll try to get it warm without covering truck in slung oil and will do my best to report back. BTW cam lobes all look good and no excessive play in rockers (cam followers) when unloaded. So likely not the follower needle bearings. Still hunting.
Throttle body reset should fix the tick. Let engine completely cool first. Remove neg battery cable. Jump positive to disconnected negative cable for a minute or so. Drain all the capacitors to reset memory values to zero. Reconnect neg cable. Turn key to on, wait for gauge check to complete. Then start and let idle from cold to hot before driving.
Good catch on the throttle body. A friend has a 2016 (I think) F150 5.0L and he just finished putting a Edelbrock super charger on his. Took care of the ticking problem. And his towing gas mileage went up… The normal driving mileage went down! 😊
I have a 2015 5.0 I had a that famous tick since then , 200k miles after still runs like champ! It's been paid off , I'm driving it till motors goes , coming up to 300k it paid itself once by now
Yeah they say when it stops making noise as you got to worry LOL I hope mine makes it that far I had a 2003 Harley-Davidson with the 5.4 with 230,000 miles and it looks brand new and would do 140 down the interstate like nobody's business
Those T connectors always leak its an oring seated inside it. Not replaced separately through ford (only as full connector) however you can get just the oring aftermarket.
I don't believe that is the cause of the ticking noise prevalent in this engine. That throttle tick is also a problem with the 5.0 and we clean the throttle body or replace it and re-initialize the computer and it takes care of that problem. It's caused by an error in the Idle control from the throttle plate not sitting correctly. The typewriter tap is different and comes from the valve train, probably caused by a design flaw in the oil passages and improper oil flow through the valve train. that's why it sounds like it's coming from the back of the engine.
I’ll say one think it’s one beautiful truck!!! A buddy of mine had a 76 Ford F150 back then, it ran great for back then, but he was always looking problems and always under it, Change the oil and as long as she’s running good forget it.
@@s.t.k.r. yep, I’m old and I’ll tell you that truck is a Cadillac compared to the old trucks and honestly it was hard to get 100k out of them old truck without a ton of work. I got a 2017 2.7 STX and I figure I’ll have to do the hoses this spring, might go ahead and do the water pump too, don’t look like to bad of a job.
Wow! Wow! Wow! How awesome finally mystery solved. Thank you so much and i gave up on even searching for an answer over a year ago. Finding this video today was an accident. Man what a relief i have a 2011 fx4 5.0 and 2013 platinum 5.0 the 11 been sittng for years cuz of the ghost tick i could never find. My wife thinks Im nuts. Thank you so much man. 😊
Beautiful truck! Dorman makes an aftermarket upgrade to the coolant Y that is metal. My 2015 had the leak from the same place as yours and I've had the new metal Y on there for 4 months with no issue, only time will tell.
Yes I bought two of those metal ones off of Amazon put on two different trucks so far so good both trucks I made a hose coming from radiator to y with clamps so I will never have that problem again. What I'm reading is people are just replacing the O-rings but that plastic gets so brittle. I just hate it that you know it's going to happen just when on vacation or 3 hours from home who knows
My 2016 just started doing this. Glad I found your video cause trying to find this was definitely driving me crazy! Thanks for putting it out there! Anyone else delt with the stalling out (intake manifold runners/control)and just went the delete route?
My truck is currently with a mechanic. Nobody can ever duplicate the stall. I will get a random stall after running a bit for a while..and sitting at lights it will stall after a minute of idling. Is this what happened to you?
So that factory radiator hose has two o rings that can be replaced for $2-$7 bucks. Even though the shops will tell you they can't be, they are full of it.
Yes you are correct but a lot of the time they get brittle and break it's worth a shot but might not last long and yes they are expensive 130 or so from Ford and they say it's best to do both at the same time which I'm sure helps them LOL
Greetings I have a 2016 Mustang Gt . Just heard the same noise today . Comes and goes . Only hear it with hood open . Car runs great . It's super hot out different air density . Perhaps just dont open hood anymore . Do service when needed close hood . Breathe Relax Rip on it , have fun . I Am a Child of God God Loves Me My car loves Me All is Well . Thank You Universe Kind cyote Truck Guy .
With modern vehicles using electronic control units ( ECU's / computers) to monitor and control engine operation, the electronic parts are indeed more expensive and require expensive tools ( needed ) even when you install a new part - as in your case - an ELECTRONIC throttle body. When many new ELECTRONIC parts are installed - the repair technician has to use expensive vehicle ( bidirectional diagnostic engine analyzer ) to perform computer ( ECU ) relearn functions to ensure proper calibration of air / fuel mixture for the ELECTRONIC fuel injectors - as certain ELECTRONIC parts are not just plug ( install ) and play - fuel injectors and throttle bodies require such computer relearn procedures.
I'm going to see probably this weekend I'm putting new spark plugs in going to pull it off in and clean it the best I can and see if it helps. I know using some throttle body cleaner with the intake pipe off did help
My 15 GT had the same issue around 80k clicking and tapping like crazy and I bought a used one on eBay, swapped it, problem solved. I’d rather have these minor issues over the lifter issues in a Chevy.
Seems to be a pretty big issue and if it was to go out I think it could be considered a safety issue which should be a recall I think there is a TSB on it but Ford will not pay for it even under my extended warranty
Pull air take put hand over throttle body , care full . it will replicate sound , put large screw driver on throttle body you can hear and feel . I replaced mine , stock , it was dirty on back side . Didn't bother with cleaning . Easy job .
Is that what that is??? I have a 2018 5.0 F150 with the same sound - I've brought it to 2 different dealers at least 4 different times to have this looked at while it was under warranty, without any certain answer. I have had them perform whatever TSBs have been issued with no resolve. I've always chalked this up to engine knock (which Ford and their TSB 19-2144 claims is completely normal and a regular operating characteristic of the 5.0) RUclips for the win once again. Going to check this out on mine. Thanks!!
Yeah I found this out by accident Ford says it's because it gets dirty and it's kind of normal without the intake pipe off it sounds like it's coming from everywhere
Those irrigation clamps you have on that reservoir hose will expand and get loose when it’s hot they aren’t meant for motors my dealership kept using those on my Jeep wrangler and it kept leaking until I told him to replace all those clips with oem ones and BOOM the leak was fixed!😂
Yes they can get loose but I have about fifteen thousand miles on it with no leaks so far I'm eventually going to get oem ones and do it right. But $130 for a little bit of rubber is ridiculous but that's the way the world is house
I have a 2023 Mustang GT, California Special with just over 5500 miles on it. The other day, I had the hood up and was putting windshield washer fluid in, and I heard this random metal on metal clicking noise. In about one minute, it did it about 3 to 5 times. Then, it would just disappear. I had my friend listen and he thinks its in the front of the motor and down by the pulleys. When I give it a little throttle, he said it goes away. Your noise sounds exactly like mine does, but mine just does not do it as often. No codes, no stalling and no drive-ability issues. I'll bring it up at my next service. Thanks for the video!
It's pretty simple if you're comfortable just pull your intake off and you can watch it but if it's not doing it all the time it might be tough to see it
@@s.t.k.r. Unfortunately, I'm not mechanically inclined. LOL! I'll mention it to the dealer when I bring it in for my next service. It's a shame I have this noise with only 5k miles on it:(
I just bought my 23' GT manual 4 months ago and it has 4000 miles on it now. Had the hood up while it was running to show some friends and low and behold, the intermittent popping near the front of the intake manifold comes and go every 15- 20 seconds then itll disappear. Upon closer inspection it is definitely the throttle body popping as i can hear the whole engine change tone ever so slightly each time it does it. Like you I dont have any codes and car drive perfectly fine so not sure whats up but im going to take it in and get it fixed under warranty because it should not be doing that at idle. Im worried tho that even if they replace it with a new oem throttle body whos to say it wont just happen to that one too? Poor quality parts if you ask me
I don't know for sure but what I've Been Told from ford and other mechanics the throttle bodies have to be programmed to or truck so if you buy a new one which is 400 bucks $500 you have to pay them to program it mine has been doing it for over a year and it causes no issues other than sounding like somebody's under the hood. I refuse to pay ford more money while I'm paying a big truck payment and give them more money for something they should already fix
Cleaning it will help but actually need a new throttle body and be reprogrammed or they say they can reprogram your old one update it but you have to pay for it and if it don't work you're out of the money
I know this is a strange request. I’m sure you have much better things to do with your time but if I sent you a couple of videos of the sound that my truck was making, would you mind giving them a listen and letting me know what you think? I’d really appreciate it.
No. But I'm about to do plugs and thinking about removing intake to clean it or at least tb. Spraying it with cleaner helped for a few days. Which told me it's at least part of the problem
@@s.t.k.r. remove it completely, its an easy job, clean it thoroughly with spray tb cleaner. I used mother's mag and aluminum polish on mine, thru the bore and on both sides of the plate. Get the edges of the plate as well. It idled better, and had a much crisper throttle response when it was done.
I couldn't agree more on the rad hose wire clamp system. Worst design ever. I replaced mine the bottom rad hose on my 09 and thoght I had it on securely, 1 month later my truck runs hot because the hose came loose and leaked half the fluid. Hopefully its secure now but still makes me nervous.
2015 F250 here... My truck had the same ticking noise and it took me forever to find it. I was sure it was a coil or plug wire arcing. 8 coil packs and 16 spark plugs later and nope..but like you, I found out it was the throttle body by accident.
2016 64K hot idle clicking, no codes. Listened thru stethoscope and it’s obvious, pulled intake boot and watched throttle plate random open close as shown. Replaced throttle body and did relearn all good. Probably the TB lost its mind and couldn’t find “closed” anymore
Yes seems to be a common issue and even under extended warranty ford does not want to fix it. They said it might need a reprogram but after paying them for that they can't promise anything
FWIW I use truck for towing during snowmobile season so I didn’t want it to “fail” during a 10hr trip north. Otherwise I would probably run till failure. Motorcraft replacemnt TB wasn’t obscene from Rockauto.
My truck now is clicking like hammers but not affecting anything. I keep planning to take it off and clean it. The last time I hit it with carb cleaner it calmed down
Perfect. I got 2016 yesterday and two ticks one on driver head and one exactly right here , glad I don’t have to chase one of them. You saved me 50% of my stress :)
@@169abr Ford has new updated cam phasers available they are just hard to find right now. Just make sure they are the new style if you have to replace them. I think Fordtechumechlo (sic) did a recent RUclips video on updated cam phasers.
Add it to the list of crap wrong with the fords. Shame on me for getting a 2018. So far I've had cam phasers, replaced tail gate, fuel pump (2) and the best of all.... 2 new transmissions. Now it's the way I drive it apparently. It's a truck not a race car
Shit I drive mine like I stole it. The computer has limits it sets. Ford sets them. If it's too much. That's their fault. It seems 2 of same truck same year 1 Vin off and 1 truck will be fine the other will be shit.
You replaced two fuel pumps? Mine died one me 2018 f50 and it threw codes for low fuel pressure…. I’m in the process of getting the pump in and having it replaced. 65000 miles run e85 in it
@@kkassen1 I have never ran a 85 mostly just 87 and I drive the s*** out of my truck no doubt Ivel put 40,000 miles on it in 2 years I've had one cam sensor go bad that shut the truck down ford replaced all kind of stuff to figure out it was a 80 dollar sensor. I think cars and trucks for hit and miss you can get one to last forever then you get one that won't make it five thousand mile
I had 1995 f150 ,302 it had lifter tap every Time , started it ,until the Motor warmed up for a minute or two that truck had 155,000 miles when I traded it on my 2014 never had any issues with it put some new shocks on it shock towers water pump very reliable truck I would recommend if you want to buy an old work truck that you can beat the hell out of get a 1995 or 92;93, F150 with a 302 or straight . They’re very noisy motors but they just don’t die..
I have a 2015 F150 5.0 and I can feel the clicking coming from the black piece right above the throttle body without taking the intake off. And I took the intake off and it is black all over (carbon), so I’ll clean mine and or replace it with a better one
I have the same exact sound! Also no driveability issues but when I took my truck to the dealer they said I’ll need a new engine block for $5,000 😂 So glad I didn’t go with that.
Same sound coming from mine..... so glad I googled this 1st.. had someone in a mustang group say throttle tick and dang If that's gotta be the sound. Right from the throttle body... I could hear it and it sounds like thumping coming out of my cai
2016 gt same thing just found heard today and the Universe sent me a support group . Pretty cool . Thing runs great only hear SOMETIMES with hood Open . I leave hood closed . Fixed .
I had the same throttle body clicking as you did. Its simply a dirty throttle body. The dirt and build-up snags with the flap. Your throttle body is clearly very dirty. Hope this helps.
Yes I clean mine it got quiet for a few days now it is barely ticking Ford dealership said they could reprogram it but couldn't promise anything but they would charge LOL
I have a 2016 5.0 also. I just cleaned my TB and did Seafoam spray treatment. I never noticed the ticking until I got ready to do the cleaning. Anyways - doing both really worked wonders with the throttle response and just seems to run smoother. I haven't had any issues at all with my truck but I'm trying to keep it that way.
@@s.t.k.r. Its not, and I'll show you how to tell. When you go into the module programming section of IDS, look at the list of all programable modules. If its not on that list, you can't program it. You may be thinking of the abs pump where the module bolts to the pump itself. That can be programmed because its an actual module. I know it may look that way, but its not. There is a relearn procedure, but its automatic, and is done by the PCM. You can speed up the relearn process a bit by touching the battery cables together to drain the excess electricity in the system first, and then let the vehicle idle for a few minutes. But its not necessary, and the relearn takes place in the pcm. The PCM is the module for the throttle body, just like it is for injectors, coils, O2 sensors, etc. In my first post, I said that only modules can be programmed. While that's true, there can be some confusion. Certain parts, like free running actuators, need to be "programmed", or "learned". Things like Window actuators, sun roof and sunshade actuators and wiper motor actuators, can all be directly "programmed". When you program a module, you remove and replace actual software. When you program actuators, no software is involved. Since the actuators are free running, they need stop values, or range of operation. Those values are stored in the actuator itself. Just as an example, look at how wipers work. On traditional wiper systems, you have 1 motor that spins a lever in a circle that moves the rods that the wiper arms bolt on to. You don't have to program anything. You put the wiper arms on in the right spot, and everything works fine. On wiper arm actuators, that's not the case. Each arm gets its own free running actuator. These actuators are not connected to each other mechanically, and they share no information. If you don't program range of motion into each actuator, the wiper arms will crash into each other. Its easy to confuse this type of "programming", with an actual software update. Sorry for any confusion. I should have explained all this in my original post.
My 2016 f150 had the same radiator hose issue really poor design and my truck ticks as well .....and come to find out 2024 f250 diesel do the same ticking . .. ford says it's common and it won't hurt the motor lol I guess we gotta live with it 80,000 f250 brand new ticking truck .....crazy
Holy shit...I have a 2021 Ranger that has a slight ticking at low speeds....I thought maybe it was the direct injectors....but fuck, it could be the throttle body! Damn, I'mma take a look tomorrow.
Great Find. And the Dealers make how much MONEY and 8 times outta 10 "or More" come back with the "Can't Duplicate the Problem"??? I have a BRAND NEW 2022 F-150 with 2400 Miles on the ODO with a Knocking sound/Noise, (To hard to Describe here) that One dealer say's it's "NORMAL" and another Dealer say's NOPE, That Aint Normal, It's gotta be Diaged. That, and this is a 3.5 EB that I swear has the Cold Start Up Rattle, (STILL) Or perhaps this is part of the KNOCKING Issue that I have??? Don't know, but what a PISSER!!!!! $87,000.00 for this UNIT too???!!!
Have 18 f150 5.0, sounds worse than a diesel. They make these things to last long enough to run out the warranty. And your right. Ford says nothing wrong and keeps putting you off until it's out of coverage.
Yes and what I've been told if you buy a new one or used one it has to be reprogrammed by ford. Things are just getting too technical I'm about to go back old-school LOL
It amazes me how they know these things are gonna happen and they still build them this way i guess they cant build to last forever hey they gotta sale new ones huh ? But they could
I replaced mine with an aftermarket bbk 90 mm had the same problem with the stock one. It makes a loud clunk noise makes it seem like something’s really wrong.
I've had a Ford technician tell me that they need to be reprogrammed in the computer I may try this that if it gets any worse just don't see how a throttle body can go bad maybe they reprogram the throttle body itself I don't know
It just doesn’t seem like it’s the actual throttle body even if it’s dirty. It looks like it make be a computer deal or something it looks like it’ wants to engage on its own if you look closely I have the same truck 17 5.0 and it does the same thing. I noticed it at around 15k I’m 112 k in already. Haven’t had any issues my intake manifold control thing messed up so I had to find a air intake manifold to replace it. Some leaky hoses but just change the o rings on them and your good
While I have a 2017 doing the same thing and as a mechanic I see things that dont make sense the engineers do their job making no sense to us mechanics but it works. And on a 2nd gen coyote the last of the good ones it idles like silk and zero drivability problems. I think seeing other people seeing the same thing for all intents and purposes it is normal like the ticky rattle the coyote has. Why it does that only the engineers know.
That's about as bad as the stupid plastic thermostat housings used on the 05 to 09 mustangs and the horror's of the 5.4 3valves plastic chain guides. Ford needs better QC
It's Electronically controlled I don't know if a new throttle body will help it Ford says it needs to be reprogrammed I'm going to update after I take mine off and clean it I used some throttle body cleaner while it was still on the intake and it helped for about a month
I thought I got a good warranty too! Warranty companies figure out how to get out of paying us. Its a waste of money. Warranties are written by lawyers. Whats really a-shame! The warranty companies, manufacturers and sells company have no regard for their reputation.
Well my ticking noise dropped 3 cylinders. BAHAHAHAHA 😂😂😂 9 months later after they said a new long block , still ticking. Lol Mine is because the correct oil pressure isn't getting to the tensioners. I think it's from bad casting in the block. And there is no way in hell they put a new block. Surly my luck ain't that bad to get 2 bad blocks. My dad seems to think that's the problem. He has 60 yrs experience and head mechanic at Ford for 20 years and owned his own shop for 40. He said ford had same problem in the mid 80s.
Yes! Thanks for posting this video. I cleaned my throttle body and it started making this noise. So I took the battery terminal off to clear the memory and then restored power. I turned the key to the on position to let the throttle body sweep. Then I started my truck and let it idle for 30 minutes and it relearned the idle setting and the noise went away! Thanks again!
Isn’t the purge valve supposed to click?
@@KollynJ Yes, but that is not what is clicking in this video
That clicking Is loud because I was doing my oil change yesterday and when I turn it on it was making that noise that I thought it might be the belt tensioner or maybe one of the pulleys bearing going bad but I’m glad someone made a video because that would have been a nightmare to find.
I’m a mechanic. My friend just came over with his 2017 f150. He called me and said that he was hearing engine knock. And when he came over I opened the hood and I heard that knocking or ticking sound and I could tell it was coming from the throttle body. And when I saw this video that’s exactly how it sounded. It has to be this because the moment I heard it my hand went straight to the throttle body. Great vid. Thanks.
Yeah this has fooled alot of people. I was actually fixing the radiator hoses when I noticed it
So what did you exactly do to rectify the sound?
😅😅Yj,#t
You’re the man. Just had to replace my intake tube and heard this for the first time and it kinda freaked me out, got on the tube and found your video. Appreciate it man.
You the man! Thank you so much for posting this video! I just got a 2016 5.0 and it has this exact issue. I narrowed it down to the throttle body and searched on RUclips and found your video. So relieved now! Will remove intake hose to verify, but this is definitely it! Cheers from Sweden!
Greetings I just replaced my throttle body today 2016 Gt easy job odd ugly noise Gone Yeaaaaa . Running smooth with Mobile One 5 30 Cheers from Fl
I have 2018 and have the same clicking. Good to know it's not a lifter or something serious. I took my off to verify. Thank you.
How did you fix it?
294k on my 2015 5.0L. Runs great WITH that randon tick exactly as it is heard here. I thought it was a typical Ford lifter. Now I know where to look. Awesome find - well done to this content creator, and even better that you shared it. I haven't seen it discussed accurately ANYWHERE else. Your video, friend, is the only one I have seen showing the origin of this noise. You should charge admission!
What did you find? I thought purge valves were supposed to click
So I'm at 299k miles now and mine is NOT the throttle body. It is most assuredly a rod bearing knocking. I'll swap rod bearings this summer by dropping the pan with the engine still in the truck. It's not fun, but it's just a weekend and not much money (180 bucks with the bearings, oil, and pan gasket) and I will likely drive it a few years afterward with no issue.
For what it's worth and for anyone interested, rod bearings (and their knock) are down low, down in the oil pan. They have a distinct knock that sounds like two plastic screwdriver handles banging together repeatedly. While a harmless upper engine tick sounds like the metal shafts of the same two screwdrivers hitting each other.
Again:
Handles banging together is the rod knock sound.
Metal shafts clicking together is the upper engine sound and harmless, usually.
Best to you-
J
5.0 Doesn't have lifters its dual overhead cam engine
@KollynJ So, dropped oil pan, pulled rod caps, and found perfect FoMoCo rod bearings all the way around. Zero wear and like new. Also checked wrist pins (moved rods up and down looking for pin play) and there was none. No scoring of cylinders seen from underneath and no damage apparent to bottom skirts of pistons. Changed rod bearings since they were out (back in with Ford brand) and now running the engine with valve covers off to listen with stethoscope. But tick/knock is only when engine is warm. I'll try to get it warm without covering truck in slung oil and will do my best to report back. BTW cam lobes all look good and no excessive play in rockers (cam followers) when unloaded. So likely not the follower needle bearings. Still hunting.
Throttle body reset should fix the tick. Let engine completely cool first. Remove neg battery cable. Jump positive to disconnected negative cable for a minute or so. Drain all the capacitors to reset memory values to zero. Reconnect neg cable. Turn key to on, wait for gauge check to complete. Then start and let idle from cold to hot before driving.
that noice sounds like what i just starting hearing in my 2020 f150 tonight thats a relief i went thruough 4 engines from different issues
Did this ticking increase a d decrease with acceleration but stop entirely just before 2000 rpm ?
Good catch on the throttle body. A friend has a 2016 (I think) F150 5.0L and he just finished putting a Edelbrock super charger on his. Took care of the ticking problem. And his towing gas mileage went up… The normal driving mileage went down! 😊
I have a 2015 5.0 I had a that famous tick since then , 200k miles after still runs like champ! It's been paid off , I'm driving it till motors goes , coming up to 300k it paid itself once by now
Yeah they say when it stops making noise as you got to worry LOL I hope mine makes it that far I had a 2003 Harley-Davidson with the 5.4 with 230,000 miles and it looks brand new and would do 140 down the interstate like nobody's business
@@s.t.k.r.does the 5.4 startup rattle?ever have to do timing chain?
260k on my 2011
Those T connectors always leak its an oring seated inside it. Not replaced separately through ford (only as full connector)
however you can get just the oring aftermarket.
That’s not true at all. I have the part numbers for both of those o-ring connections and replace them often. They are available through Ford.
I don't believe that is the cause of the ticking noise prevalent in this engine. That throttle tick is also a problem with the 5.0 and we clean the throttle body or replace it and re-initialize the computer and it takes care of that problem. It's caused by an error in the Idle control from the throttle plate not sitting correctly. The typewriter tap is different and comes from the valve train, probably caused by a design flaw in the oil passages and improper oil flow through the valve train. that's why it sounds like it's coming from the back of the engine.
I’ll say one think it’s one beautiful truck!!! A buddy of mine had a 76 Ford F150 back then, it ran great for back then, but he was always looking problems and always under it, Change the oil and as long as she’s running good forget it.
Yeah this one runs. Just some bad engineering. But that's every car I guess
@@s.t.k.r. yep, I’m old and I’ll tell you that truck is a Cadillac compared to the old trucks and honestly it was hard to get 100k out of them old truck without a ton of work. I got a 2017 2.7 STX and I figure I’ll have to do the hoses this spring, might go ahead and do the water pump too, don’t look like to bad of a job.
Yes the water pump is not bad at all while you're doing the hoses would be a good time to do it
Where you get that Ford emblem?
Wow! Wow! Wow! How awesome finally mystery solved. Thank you so much and i gave up on even searching for an answer over a year ago. Finding this video today was an accident. Man what a relief i have a 2011 fx4 5.0 and 2013 platinum 5.0 the 11 been sittng for years cuz of the ghost tick i could never find. My wife thinks Im nuts. Thank you so much man. 😊
this is an incredible find and hilarious at the same time. i wonder if this is the noise my mustang makes
Probably so if it's not a consistent tick.
My Mustang makes this sound as well. But it sounds like it's coming from under the car though. But I will look into this.
What kind of mechanic uses screw hose clamps instead of constant tension?
Beautiful truck! Dorman makes an aftermarket upgrade to the coolant Y that is metal. My 2015 had the leak from the same place as yours and I've had the new metal Y on there for 4 months with no issue, only time will tell.
Yes I bought two of those metal ones off of Amazon put on two different trucks so far so good both trucks I made a hose coming from radiator to y with clamps so I will never have that problem again. What I'm reading is people are just replacing the O-rings but that plastic gets so brittle. I just hate it that you know it's going to happen just when on vacation or 3 hours from home who knows
those this apply for a ford mustang gt cuz its the same engine and i have a tick
thanks bro, just knowing the cause is comforting. love the5.0
Thank you for this. Took my truck to the dealer and they tried to tell me it was a l valve tick and that it lowered the value of my truck by like 5k
THAT'S A NICE TRUCK. LOVE THE REDD TRIMMINGS ON YOUR FORD F-150
My 2016 just started doing this. Glad I found your video cause trying to find this was definitely driving me crazy! Thanks for putting it out there!
Anyone else delt with the stalling out (intake manifold runners/control)and just went the delete route?
I believe you can delete it but it has to be tuned out also
My truck is currently with a mechanic. Nobody can ever duplicate the stall. I will get a random stall after running a bit for a while..and sitting at lights it will stall after a minute of idling. Is this what happened to you?
@jeffa9678 no it never stalls out if anything it has a high idle. I think they should run live data it could be numerous things
@@jeffa9678I had the same problems it was my vct solenoids that went bad, got them replaced then never had the issue
Its the coyote tick, it really doesn’t actually harm anything
what is the recommendation? removed and clean? or just clean? Mine is doing that noise and I am new with Ford?
So that factory radiator hose has two o rings that can be replaced for $2-$7 bucks. Even though the shops will tell you they can't be, they are full of it.
Yes you are correct but a lot of the time they get brittle and break it's worth a shot but might not last long and yes they are expensive 130 or so from Ford and they say it's best to do both at the same time which I'm sure helps them LOL
Who in the world made that front ford emblem? I am a Veteran. I need one of those
I got it on the front and the back. Ebay Amazon. Just make sure to get the right size
@@s.t.k.r. bad ass, Thanks Boss👍🏽
Did replacing the throttle body fix it?
Greetings
I have a 2016 Mustang Gt . Just heard the same noise today . Comes and goes . Only hear it with hood open . Car runs great . It's super hot out different air density . Perhaps just dont open hood anymore . Do service when needed close hood . Breathe Relax Rip on it , have fun . I Am a Child of God God Loves Me My car loves Me All is Well . Thank You Universe Kind cyote Truck Guy .
With modern vehicles using electronic control units ( ECU's / computers) to monitor and control engine operation, the electronic parts are indeed more expensive and require expensive tools ( needed ) even when you install a new part - as in your case - an ELECTRONIC throttle body. When many new ELECTRONIC parts are installed - the repair technician has to use expensive vehicle ( bidirectional diagnostic engine analyzer ) to perform computer ( ECU ) relearn functions to ensure proper calibration of air / fuel mixture for the ELECTRONIC fuel injectors - as certain ELECTRONIC parts are not just plug ( install ) and play - fuel injectors and throttle bodies require such computer relearn procedures.
Yeah that's why I think I'm going to old school muscle next. Maybe with new style fuel injection from holler. Idk
How does the liquid ceratec fix this type writer sound issue for most people if its just the throttle body? Or are these 2 different issues?
I wonder if you clean it and relearn idle if that would fix it???
I'm going to see probably this weekend I'm putting new spark plugs in going to pull it off in and clean it the best I can and see if it helps. I know using some throttle body cleaner with the intake pipe off did help
@@s.t.k.r. spray the cleaner on a lint free shop towel. dont spray the cleaner directly into the throttle body its self.
@@sking5282 why is that? Spray it straight into my civic so curious if I shouldn’t do that
My 15 GT had the same issue around 80k clicking and tapping like crazy and I bought a used one on eBay, swapped it, problem solved. I’d rather have these minor issues over the lifter issues in a Chevy.
Seems to be a pretty big issue and if it was to go out I think it could be considered a safety issue which should be a recall I think there is a TSB on it but Ford will not pay for it even under my extended warranty
And yes it is an easy issue to fix we also have the cam phaser problem
Thank you for the video!! Has anyone found a fix for this?
How loud is it from underneath?
Y have the saim problem in may 2015 f150 2015 5.0
My 2015 makes that exact same noise and I was hoping it wasn’t a lifter or something like that. This just pinpointed it exactly.
Pull air take put hand over throttle body , care full . it will replicate sound , put large screw driver on throttle body you can hear and feel . I replaced mine , stock , it was dirty on back side . Didn't bother with cleaning . Easy job .
3:25 is the actual problem for those not wanting to hear all the unrelated rambling to your issue.
Is that what that is??? I have a 2018 5.0 F150 with the same sound - I've brought it to 2 different dealers at least 4 different times to have this looked at while it was under warranty, without any certain answer. I have had them perform whatever TSBs have been issued with no resolve.
I've always chalked this up to engine knock (which Ford and their TSB 19-2144 claims is completely normal and a regular operating characteristic of the 5.0)
RUclips for the win once again. Going to check this out on mine. Thanks!!
Yeah I found this out by accident Ford says it's because it gets dirty and it's kind of normal without the intake pipe off it sounds like it's coming from everywhere
A lot of the trucks made in dearborn, MI have been having VVT issues. I got 120K on my 2016 5.0L and they are starting to act up
the dealer calls it a typewriter tick and its normal lol ..
Yeah I bet they do LOL
Those irrigation clamps you have on that reservoir hose will expand and get loose when it’s hot they aren’t meant for motors my dealership kept using those on my Jeep wrangler and it kept leaking until I told him to replace all those clips with oem ones and BOOM the leak was fixed!😂
Yes they can get loose but I have about fifteen thousand miles on it with no leaks so far I'm eventually going to get oem ones and do it right. But $130 for a little bit of rubber is ridiculous but that's the way the world is house
I have a 2023 Mustang GT, California Special with just over 5500 miles on it. The other day, I had the hood up and was putting windshield washer fluid in, and I heard this random metal on metal clicking noise. In about one minute, it did it about 3 to 5 times. Then, it would just disappear. I had my friend listen and he thinks its in the front of the motor and down by the pulleys. When I give it a little throttle, he said it goes away. Your noise sounds exactly like mine does, but mine just does not do it as often. No codes, no stalling and no drive-ability issues. I'll bring it up at my next service. Thanks for the video!
It's pretty simple if you're comfortable just pull your intake off and you can watch it but if it's not doing it all the time it might be tough to see it
@@s.t.k.r. Unfortunately, I'm not mechanically inclined. LOL! I'll mention it to the dealer when I bring it in for my next service. It's a shame I have this noise with only 5k miles on it:(
@@tommyelse3817 no doubt
I have 2016 Gt with 85 000 first heard today , hood open comes and goes I leave hood closed All Is Well .
I just bought my 23' GT manual 4 months ago and it has 4000 miles on it now. Had the hood up while it was running to show some friends and low and behold, the intermittent popping near the front of the intake manifold comes and go every 15- 20 seconds then itll disappear. Upon closer inspection it is definitely the throttle body popping as i can hear the whole engine change tone ever so slightly each time it does it. Like you I dont have any codes and car drive perfectly fine so not sure whats up but im going to take it in and get it fixed under warranty because it should not be doing that at idle. Im worried tho that even if they replace it with a new oem throttle body whos to say it wont just happen to that one too? Poor quality parts if you ask me
I thought it was my water pump, dealer thought it was intake, but couldn't get into it. Guess I know what to swap now.
I don't know for sure but what I've Been Told from ford and other mechanics the throttle bodies have to be programmed to or truck so if you buy a new one which is 400 bucks $500 you have to pay them to program it mine has been doing it for over a year and it causes no issues other than sounding like somebody's under the hood. I refuse to pay ford more money while I'm paying a big truck payment and give them more money for something they should already fix
5.0 oil weight has been changed from 5W20 to 5W30
Thanks for the video, my truck is doing the exact same thing now I know how to fix it.
I don't think he showed how to fix it.
What headlights are those? Looks great👌
Akkons. Not bad for the price
Great video! Comforting to know that it’s not a big issue….discomforting to know about the toy coolant hoses!🙄
Is the 'fix' to just get a new throttle body or can you clean it or something else? 2016 V8 F150. Mine just starting with this ticking.
Cleaning it will help but actually need a new throttle body and be reprogrammed or they say they can reprogram your old one update it but you have to pay for it and if it don't work you're out of the money
I know this is a strange request. I’m sure you have much better things to do with your time but if I sent you a couple of videos of the sound that my truck was making, would you mind giving them a listen and letting me know what you think? I’d really appreciate it.
@@Ericberkman03 send them to cvs5356@hotmail.com
ruclips.net/user/shortsN7Pk8oipYS4@@s.t.k.r.
ruclips.net/user/shortsJHaiD5eyGhE
Did you remove the tb and clean it? Looks all carboned up forcing the pcm to hunt for idle and throttle plate trim angle.
No. But I'm about to do plugs and thinking about removing intake to clean it or at least tb. Spraying it with cleaner helped for a few days. Which told me it's at least part of the problem
@@s.t.k.r. remove it completely, its an easy job, clean it thoroughly with spray tb cleaner. I used mother's mag and aluminum polish on mine, thru the bore and on both sides of the plate. Get the edges of the plate as well. It idled better, and had a much crisper throttle response when it was done.
Thanks for the advice!!
Liked and Subscribed!!!!
I hope this solved everyone’s problem I’m hearing it in my mustang gt no big deal 😅
I have a 18 5L with the same noise 188,000 km runs really good good to know if I want to fix that noise thank you
You are welcome please like And subscribe
Thanks for the video! I recently found that mine was doing it too. Was there any fix to this issue I can do myself?
2016 gt Me thinks wd 40 the intake valve hinge
I couldn't agree more on the rad hose wire clamp system. Worst design ever. I replaced mine the bottom rad hose on my 09 and thoght I had it on securely, 1 month later my truck runs hot because the hose came loose and leaked half the fluid. Hopefully its secure now but still makes me nervous.
2015 F250 here... My truck had the same ticking noise and it took me forever to find it. I was sure it was a coil or plug wire arcing. 8 coil packs and 16 spark plugs later and nope..but like you, I found out it was the throttle body by accident.
2016 64K hot idle clicking, no codes. Listened thru stethoscope and it’s obvious, pulled intake boot and watched throttle plate random open close as shown. Replaced throttle body and did relearn all good. Probably the TB lost its mind and couldn’t find “closed” anymore
Yes seems to be a common issue and even under extended warranty ford does not want to fix it. They said it might need a reprogram but after paying them for that they can't promise anything
I will say spraying throttle body cleaner into it did help a lot it is barely clicking now but I'm sure it will come back
FWIW I use truck for towing during snowmobile season so I didn’t want it to “fail” during a 10hr trip north. Otherwise I would probably run till failure. Motorcraft replacemnt TB wasn’t obscene from Rockauto.
My mustang is doing the same issue, glad to see its not extremely major 😅
My truck now is clicking like hammers but not affecting anything. I keep planning to take it off and clean it. The last time I hit it with carb cleaner it calmed down
Perfect. I got 2016 yesterday and two ticks one on driver head and one exactly right here , glad I don’t have to chase one of them. You saved me 50% of my stress :)
Lower your oil velocity
Have you had your 5.0 stall at idle yet?
No but it lags at time at low speeds
The 18+ seems to have the problems, cam reversion issues.
@@169abr
Ford has new updated cam phasers available they are just hard to find right now. Just make sure they are the new style if you have to replace them. I think Fordtechumechlo (sic) did a recent RUclips video on updated cam phasers.
@@ronh9384 lucky for me I have a Gen 2 that is rock solid, but hopefully this fixed the issue for others
I got a 13 ecoboost that's making same noise not as rapid only when it's cold start. Thanks
Thank you for finding that problem
Are those lights in the flares?
Yes
@@s.t.k.r. nice!
Add it to the list of crap wrong with the fords. Shame on me for getting a 2018. So far I've had cam phasers, replaced tail gate, fuel pump (2) and the best of all.... 2 new transmissions. Now it's the way I drive it apparently. It's a truck not a race car
Shit I drive mine like I stole it. The computer has limits it sets. Ford sets them. If it's too much. That's their fault. It seems 2 of same truck same year 1 Vin off and 1 truck will be fine the other will be shit.
You replaced two fuel pumps?
Mine died one me 2018 f50 and it threw codes for low fuel pressure…. I’m in the process of getting the pump in and having it replaced. 65000 miles run e85 in it
@@kkassen1 I have never ran a 85 mostly just 87 and I drive the s*** out of my truck no doubt Ivel put 40,000 miles on it in 2 years I've had one cam sensor go bad that shut the truck down ford replaced all kind of stuff to figure out it was a 80 dollar sensor. I think cars and trucks for hit and miss you can get one to last forever then you get one that won't make it five thousand mile
Update back at the dealership, transmission felt like someone ran into me from behind. I'm going to trade in for a dodge neon or civic
@@leonsoto8333 SRT-4 will be good
Bought my 2016 5.0 new, been ticking on cold starts for 120k miles. I took it back in about 6 months after I bought it and was told no problems found
My truck ticks constantly if you want to check it out pull the airbox hose off and watch it
I had 1995 f150 ,302 it had lifter tap every Time , started it ,until the Motor warmed up for a minute or two that truck had 155,000 miles when I traded it on my 2014 never had any issues with it put some new shocks on it shock towers water pump very reliable truck I would recommend if you want to buy an old work truck that you can beat the hell out of get a 1995 or 92;93, F150 with a 302 or straight . They’re very noisy motors but they just don’t die..
I have a 2015 F150 5.0 and I can feel the clicking coming from the black piece right above the throttle body without taking the intake off. And I took the intake off and it is black all over (carbon), so I’ll clean mine and or replace it with a better one
I have the same exact sound! Also no driveability issues but when I took my truck to the dealer they said I’ll need a new engine block for $5,000 😂
So glad I didn’t go with that.
Same sound coming from mine..... so glad I googled this 1st.. had someone in a mustang group say throttle tick and dang If that's gotta be the sound. Right from the throttle body... I could hear it and it sounds like thumping coming out of my cai
2016 gt same thing just found heard today and the Universe sent me a support group . Pretty cool . Thing runs great only hear SOMETIMES with hood Open . I leave hood closed . Fixed .
I had the same throttle body clicking as you did. Its simply a dirty throttle body. The dirt and build-up snags with the flap.
Your throttle body is clearly very dirty. Hope this helps.
Yes I clean mine it got quiet for a few days now it is barely ticking Ford dealership said they could reprogram it but couldn't promise anything but they would charge LOL
I have a 2016 5.0 also. I just cleaned my TB and did Seafoam spray treatment. I never noticed the ticking until I got ready to do the cleaning. Anyways - doing both really worked wonders with the throttle response and just seems to run smoother. I haven't had any issues at all with my truck but I'm trying to keep it that way.
@@s.t.k.r. You can't program a throttle body. Only modules can be programmed.
@@AT-wl9yq which is part of the throttle body
@@s.t.k.r. Its not, and I'll show you how to tell. When you go into the module programming section of IDS, look at the list of all programable modules. If its not on that list, you can't program it. You may be thinking of the abs pump where the module bolts to the pump itself. That can be programmed because its an actual module. I know it may look that way, but its not.
There is a relearn procedure, but its automatic, and is done by the PCM. You can speed up the relearn process a bit by touching the battery cables together to drain the excess electricity in the system first, and then let the vehicle idle for a few minutes. But its not necessary, and the relearn takes place in the pcm. The PCM is the module for the throttle body, just like it is for injectors, coils, O2 sensors, etc.
In my first post, I said that only modules can be programmed. While that's true, there can be some confusion. Certain parts, like free running actuators, need to be "programmed", or "learned". Things like Window actuators, sun roof and sunshade actuators and wiper motor actuators, can all be directly "programmed". When you program a module, you remove and replace actual software. When you program actuators, no software is involved. Since the actuators are free running, they need stop values, or range of operation. Those values are stored in the actuator itself.
Just as an example, look at how wipers work. On traditional wiper systems, you have 1 motor that spins a lever in a circle that moves the rods that the wiper arms bolt on to. You don't have to program anything. You put the wiper arms on in the right spot, and everything works fine. On wiper arm actuators, that's not the case. Each arm gets its own free running actuator. These actuators are not connected to each other mechanically, and they share no information. If you don't program range of motion into each actuator, the wiper arms will crash into each other. Its easy to confuse this type of "programming", with an actual software update.
Sorry for any confusion. I should have explained all this in my original post.
My 2016 f150 had the same radiator hose issue really poor design and my truck ticks as well .....and come to find out 2024 f250 diesel do the same ticking . .. ford says it's common and it won't hurt the motor lol I guess we gotta live with it 80,000 f250 brand new ticking truck .....crazy
Good video. have a 2013 f150, dont have this issue but just in case. I did have to do the Y of course at around 80k.
Yeah it seems to be 2015 and above
I have a 2018 F150 with 5.0.....love the truck the dealership told me the clicking noise is the Bosch fuel pump🤔and was told they all do that 🤔
That's funny
My 2018 has a fast rattle sound everytime I let off the gas very annoying and loud
That may be a timing parts problem
Is it on just the 5.0s?? Thank God for this video
I'm not sure but I believe so
I have a 18 5.0 love this truck almost 60k and no problems I put a electronic throttle controller on mine
3:10
I have a 2019 e350 6.2
Same symptom
New throttle body
Done
Cleaning it helped a lot. Ford said it needs a program. I just assume to buy another one also
Thanks for this .
Holy shit...I have a 2021 Ranger that has a slight ticking at low speeds....I thought maybe it was the direct injectors....but fuck, it could be the throttle body! Damn, I'mma take a look tomorrow.
Yeah the tick is very erratic seems to be worse when it's hot
Thank you huge help!
Great Find. And the Dealers make how much MONEY and 8 times outta 10 "or More" come back with the "Can't Duplicate the Problem"??? I have a BRAND NEW 2022 F-150 with 2400 Miles on the ODO with a Knocking sound/Noise, (To hard to Describe here) that One dealer say's it's "NORMAL" and another Dealer say's NOPE, That Aint Normal, It's gotta be Diaged. That, and this is a 3.5 EB that I swear has the Cold Start Up Rattle, (STILL) Or perhaps this is part of the KNOCKING Issue that I have??? Don't know, but what a PISSER!!!!! $87,000.00 for this UNIT too???!!!
Yeah I like the old that's a normal noise. And it sounds like somebody's throwing pots and pans LOL
Have 18 f150 5.0, sounds worse than a diesel. They make these things to last long enough to run out the warranty. And your right. Ford says nothing wrong and keeps putting you off until it's out of coverage.
Yes and what I've been told if you buy a new one or used one it has to be reprogrammed by ford. Things are just getting too technical I'm about to go back old-school LOL
Its probably the fuel pump. They can be noisy. Its normal for those units.
Every ford I have ever owned had ticking noise.
It amazes me how they know these things are gonna happen and they still build them this way i guess they cant build to last forever hey they gotta sale new ones huh ? But they could
I replaced mine with an aftermarket bbk 90 mm had the same problem with the stock one. It makes a loud clunk noise makes it seem like something’s really wrong.
I've had a Ford technician tell me that they need to be reprogrammed in the computer I may try this that if it gets any worse just don't see how a throttle body can go bad maybe they reprogram the throttle body itself I don't know
I do know that they have to go through a relearn process but Ford has to do it is what I was told
It just doesn’t seem like it’s the actual throttle body even if it’s dirty. It looks like it make be a computer deal or something it looks like it’ wants to engage on its own if you look closely I have the same truck 17 5.0 and it does the same thing. I noticed it at around 15k
I’m 112 k in already. Haven’t had any issues my intake manifold control thing messed up so I had to find a air intake manifold to replace it. Some leaky hoses but just change the o rings on them and your good
Thank you!!
Catch cans. That is all
While I have a 2017 doing the same thing and as a mechanic I see things that dont make sense the engineers do their job making no sense to us mechanics but it works. And on a 2nd gen coyote the last of the good ones it idles like silk and zero drivability problems. I think seeing other people seeing the same thing for all intents and purposes it is normal like the ticky rattle the coyote has. Why it does that only the engineers know.
Could you imagine it being that simple
Could you imagine going to a dealership or mechanic and them charging you a ton of money saying it has something to do with timing or your engine
Spit it out....what is it
Crazy is what it is
Mine does the same thing, i was told if i pulled it apart and cleaned it... Might help. Never did 😅
That's about as bad as the stupid plastic thermostat housings used on the 05 to 09 mustangs and the horror's of the 5.4 3valves plastic chain guides. Ford needs better QC
Theu want stuff to last 36k. Most stuff don't. Trucks are 50k plus now. They could use good shit
My mustang gt 2017 start to do the same noise that tick
It's Electronically controlled I don't know if a new throttle body will help it Ford says it needs to be reprogrammed I'm going to update after I take mine off and clean it I used some throttle body cleaner while it was still on the intake and it helped for about a month
Replaced mine, sounded like typewriter
Mine does that! Thank you
I thought I got a good warranty too! Warranty companies figure out how to get out of paying us. Its a waste of money. Warranties are written by lawyers. Whats really a-shame! The warranty companies, manufacturers and sells company have no regard for their reputation.
Its just begging to be opened up, thats all
good find.
Well my ticking noise dropped 3 cylinders. BAHAHAHAHA 😂😂😂 9 months later after they said a new long block , still ticking. Lol Mine is because the correct oil pressure isn't getting to the tensioners. I think it's from bad casting in the block. And there is no way in hell they put a new block. Surly my luck ain't that bad to get 2 bad blocks. My dad seems to think that's the problem. He has 60 yrs experience and head mechanic at Ford for 20 years and owned his own shop for 40. He said ford had same problem in the mid 80s.