Absolutely love that you posted the entire process of the design. I appreciate seeing you struggle with the initial design and work through to your final design. All too often you only see the polished methods and it isn't realistic for those who are trying to learn. Well done!
What a great idea to make dowels. I think you can still optimize it a bit, but the idea is really brilliant. I wish you and your family a Merry Christmas, a Happy New Year and stay healthy ! Greetings from Germany
I wish somebody would come up with an outfeed that adjusts itself with whatever size dowels your making. It sucks trying to drive a dowel that’s 36” long and trying to hold the dowel coming out of the back side at the same time. I have ideas but I’m not sure how to put them to paper. Turn two v groove bearings on the lathe, somehow mount them into something with decent tension springs that opens up to whatever size dowel your making and holds it enough so it’s not wobbling around. The more the dowel moves coming out of the back side the more inconsistent the size of the dowel will be.
I had this same idea once. I think what you should try is making the angle of the dowel less than 90 degrees against the bit. IE, tilt the router 45 degrees against the feed direction like a pencil sharpener tilt. The wood needs more time against the cutting edge.
@@juliangoulding It's how you were getting those grooves when you said you were doing it too fast. Because the cutter head isn't engaging with the wood long enough. Good work btw.
Cheers mate. Thinnest I've done is 12mm but don't see why it wouldnt work. Might just be a bit harder prepping the stock and you might have to use a harder timber.
@@juliangoulding great. so, if I understand correctly it’s a matter of changing the dowel parameters in the fusion 360 file (9:25 in your video) to make the cutter part that goes on the base plate the correct size.
Could it be possible to 3D print the threaded parts of a hollowtech ii bottom bracket? But with French threading instead of English threading, so you could put a modern crankset to a vintage bike with this threading common in continental Europe without having to destroy the thread
It's a hard maybe. Definitely not with this kind of fdm printing. Threads are difficult. You might be able to do something with a fine resin printer and some high impact resin. Or what you could do is print an insert of some kind that uses the thread of the modern bracket.
Truth is mate I didn't. Good catch tho. I must of tried for like 2hrs to make it work. Work is the you can do it with some plug ins but I didn't want to go down that route
So envy, I think I just found something to put on my vision board to buy.... 3d printers are so cool
Absolutely love that you posted the entire process of the design. I appreciate seeing you struggle with the initial design and work through to your final design. All too often you only see the polished methods and it isn't realistic for those who are trying to learn. Well done!
Thanks mate, means a lot. I learn more from the failures than getting it right and want to share that with everyone.
What a great idea to make dowels. I think you can still optimize it a bit, but the idea is really brilliant.
I wish you and your family a Merry Christmas, a Happy New Year and stay healthy !
Greetings from Germany
Thanks Manfred, same to you! Yeah I'm already planning a few upgrades😉
I wish somebody would come up with an outfeed that adjusts itself with whatever size dowels your making. It sucks trying to drive a dowel that’s 36” long and trying to hold the dowel coming out of the back side at the same time. I have ideas but I’m not sure how to put them to paper. Turn two v groove bearings on the lathe, somehow mount them into something with decent tension springs that opens up to whatever size dowel your making and holds it enough so it’s not wobbling around. The more the dowel moves coming out of the back side the more inconsistent the size of the dowel will be.
So you mean octagon (8sides) not hexagon. Might be different with NZ. Good video and result. Nice one.
Awesome video! Love the idea, this is something I have been wanting for awhile, can't wait for stl and fusion file so I can print. Thanks!
Thanks mate, will sort it out tonight when I'm back from work.
I had this same idea once. I think what you should try is making the angle of the dowel less than 90 degrees against the bit. IE, tilt the router 45 degrees against the feed direction like a pencil sharpener tilt. The wood needs more time against the cutting edge.
Ah yeah. Not a bad plan there. Yeah the cutting area on this on it so small. It works super well but that might be the go for the next one.
@@juliangoulding It's how you were getting those grooves when you said you were doing it too fast. Because the cutter head isn't engaging with the wood long enough. Good work btw.
Fantastic. Keep it up and you'll be at 100k subs in no time. Cheers!
Haha thanks Brandon, that the 2021 goal!
Hi Julian, this is really cool. I was curious if you’ve attempted cutting narrower diameter dowels, such as 6mm (or 1/4 inch)?
Cheers mate. Thinnest I've done is 12mm but don't see why it wouldnt work. Might just be a bit harder prepping the stock and you might have to use a harder timber.
@@juliangoulding great. so, if I understand correctly it’s a matter of changing the dowel parameters in the fusion 360 file (9:25 in your video) to make the cutter part that goes on the base plate the correct size.
Is that a socket on ur drill?
Good project, good video. Continue like that. That's great.
Now you are followed by at least Frensh! :-)
Your video always impress viewers. How about making mtb handguard on the handlebar like the "AVS" but your own version.
Use a round over bit
Bonjour s'il vous plaît donnez moi le nom de ce produit. Merci !
I feel like you would be able to do the sanding in line or maybe even forego the router with sanding some how...to numb can't visualize it dough.
Mint idea. I'll keep this in mind for the next version. Would be less aggressive to use too.
Could it be possible to 3D print the threaded parts of a hollowtech ii bottom bracket? But with French threading instead of English threading, so you could put a modern crankset to a vintage bike with this threading common in continental Europe without having to destroy the thread
It's a hard maybe. Definitely not with this kind of fdm printing. Threads are difficult. You might be able to do something with a fine resin printer and some high impact resin. Or what you could do is print an insert of some kind that uses the thread of the modern bracket.
@@juliangoulding I can't thank you enough!
Would be great if you could share the fusion files. I wonder how you made the parameter value show up as text on the part.
Truth is mate I didn't. Good catch tho. I must of tried for like 2hrs to make it work. Work is the you can do it with some plug ins but I didn't want to go down that route