Imagine blowing out the back edge with your router plane right at the end, after you've put in all the work. I've certainly never done that. Well, not since the last time.
There are so many great tips in this video, particularly with chisel use! My question here is, how do you sharpen the router's bit? I've sorted your video collection but may have missed that content.
That router blade drop by one shaving is a really useful thing to know. I would like to see how you approach doubly stopped rebates. These are useful on cabinet doors that require a flat back and hold mirrors. I had to work out a method on my own, and would really appreciate seeing some pro tips.
Thanks James. I made a thing. A wooden frame to hold some chicken wire mesh to run the climbing roses up the fence. It's made from bed side rails and pallet wood so the boards are different widths.I didn't trust my skills to make mitered half lap corners so I did halving joints. Half lapped full width of the narrow planks and then marked and cut out the wider plank to fit at the 90 deg corners. Table saw, pull saw and chisels. My question is; Is a Stopped Halving Joint a thing or just something I did to pass the time? Take care & stay safe.
Assuming with hand tools only, here. If I was forced into, I'd probably cry inside, first. I've seen there are some Asian-style saws with teeth along on a curved saw plate, specifically for sawing in the middle of a board; but not something I've played with personally. Look up an "azebiki saw" for an example. Alternately, you'd probably skip all manner of saws and it would be completely chisel (and marking knife) work. Score walls with the knife, then make v-shaped cuts with the chisel into those knife lines to define the shoulders. Very gently at first. Deepen the shoulder lines as James showed here (knife or wide chisel), then chisel into them a little farther until you're close-ish to depth. You'll be left with an inverted-V (or mountain) of wood down the length of the center of the dado, which you attack with a chisel (bevel-down, similarly to what is seen here). Finish with a router plane.
Only kind of related to your video, how do you sharpen a saw like the one you're showing at 2:11? I have a few of them in varying degrees of age and they're all duller than they should be. Do you have a video or could you make one?
You could. I just find it to be an extra step that's not really needed. I don't generally chop all the way down to depth I stop a good bit short of that and the router plane can clean it up.
I made a small shelf unit is shop class. We cut the stopped dadoes as far as possible with a dado blade on a table saw. Transferred the stopping point of the dado to the end of the stock, and drew a line on the table in line with the point the dado blades protruded from the table, to know where to stop. Then my instructor showed me how to finish with a chisel. He picked the shortest dado to demonstrate. That dado was shorter than the chisel. The other dadoes were longer than the chisel. We didn't have paring chisels, and had never even heard of a router plane. Had to use the chisel bevel down. Still a good shelf all these years later.
You can make a great one. But when it comes to router planes the price is a good indicator of quality. ruclips.net/video/-6WaPXnw9Do/видео.htmlsi=HvtviwHSuKmMPlKL here is the one I like to make.
This comment I'm leaving down below, I would also love to see you do a half lap dovetail joint. I like using these on little toes I make and I would like to see your variation on it.
The traditional way taught in trade schools in Norway is to chop out a mortise (2-3 inches) in the front of the groove before sawing. That way you can push out the sawdust in the mortise. I think it majes it easier to get a consistent angle on the sawcut, especially for stopped sliding dovetails. Also allows you to run the saw cut to the full depth making it quicker to chisel out. Japanese pullsaw along a straight edge also works very well.
Stopped dadoes really slow down production so their application must be considered judiciously. In more than a few examples, it can be more effective to slice off the stopped section and reglue it after the joint is assembled or to cover a throughdado with a piece of molding
Imagine blowing out the back edge with your router plane right at the end, after you've put in all the work. I've certainly never done that.
Well, not since the last time.
Thanks for the 70 tip! That was a problem for me this past week.
Great video! And thank you for showing how to adjust the router plane! One of those "its so obvious!... AFTER you see it!" Thank you!
I love it when you make videos showing how to cut different joints by hand. Great video! Thank you James!
So we all know now you have ESP. I need to make a shelf this weekend and this video pops up.
The video will help me get this made, thanks.
Thanks a bunch for the tutorial, James! 😃
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Well you learn something new everyday. Never knew that about adjusting the cut of a router plane. Thanks James
Nice trick - no wait - technique on the lowering of the blade. Thanks!
I lone the slop trick!
I was hoping for aze-biki nokogiri to do the cutting. ;-) Nice demo!
Hand tool work is becoming a lost art. Thank you for helping restore the diminishing skills and teaching how to make awesome stuff with actual skill
Sliding dovetails or how to make and fit draws in a carcase
I should do that one again. here is an old one. ruclips.net/video/yPbVhF761KQ/видео.html
There are so many great tips in this video, particularly with chisel use!
My question here is, how do you sharpen the router's bit? I've sorted your video collection but may have missed that content.
I've got a few videos on that one. Here's one of the most recent ones. ruclips.net/video/fTp3vYES13U/видео.htmlsi=uWfx0a1QRVJNHjHI
@@WoodByWrightHowTo Thanks, Dude!
That router blade drop by one shaving is a really useful thing to know. I would like to see how you approach doubly stopped rebates. These are useful on cabinet doors that require a flat back and hold mirrors. I had to work out a method on my own, and would really appreciate seeing some pro tips.
In that case it is just a long mortise. I do it the same. I just do not start with the Shaw. I just cut the sides with the chisel.
@@WoodByWrightHowTo Thanks.
All Aboard!!
Next stop, stopped sliding dovetail.
Oops, nevermind. You did that 5 years ago, lol.
Thanks!
Thanks. by the way love the user name!
Comes from having 3 kids close in age.
LOL I feel you. we had 3 in 3 years. all in diapers at the same time. lots of fun.
We had one then it quite two years later had twins.
Thanks for sharing that!
Is a stopped Dino where Fred wins? LOL. One of my favourite joints. Steak!
Thanks James. I made a thing. A wooden frame to hold some chicken wire mesh to run the climbing roses up the fence. It's made from bed side rails and pallet wood so the boards are different widths.I didn't trust my skills to make mitered half lap corners so I did halving joints. Half lapped full width of the narrow planks and then marked and cut out the wider plank to fit at the 90 deg corners. Table saw, pull saw and chisels. My question is; Is a Stopped Halving Joint a thing or just something I did to pass the time? Take care & stay safe.
7:31 Still Harry? Looks more like Ron Weasley's arm to me 😁
Nice video. What do you do if it is stopped on both ends?
Assuming with hand tools only, here. If I was forced into, I'd probably cry inside, first. I've seen there are some Asian-style saws with teeth along on a curved saw plate, specifically for sawing in the middle of a board; but not something I've played with personally. Look up an "azebiki saw" for an example.
Alternately, you'd probably skip all manner of saws and it would be completely chisel (and marking knife) work. Score walls with the knife, then make v-shaped cuts with the chisel into those knife lines to define the shoulders. Very gently at first. Deepen the shoulder lines as James showed here (knife or wide chisel), then chisel into them a little farther until you're close-ish to depth. You'll be left with an inverted-V (or mountain) of wood down the length of the center of the dado, which you attack with a chisel (bevel-down, similarly to what is seen here). Finish with a router plane.
That is a mortice and tenon. but if long like that I do the same thing Just with out the saw cuts at the beginning.
Thanks James
Nice James
Thanks for sharing.
Only kind of related to your video, how do you sharpen a saw like the one you're showing at 2:11? I have a few of them in varying degrees of age and they're all duller than they should be. Do you have a video or could you make one?
Here you go. ruclips.net/video/4E43z02xw4Q/видео.htmlsi=7qo5aRpYf49TpO4l
@@WoodByWrightHowTo Thanks!
Great video!
Would you ever consider using tape to mark desired depth on your chisel?
You could. I just find it to be an extra step that's not really needed. I don't generally chop all the way down to depth I stop a good bit short of that and the router plane can clean it up.
That makes sense, thanks!
Good lesson, thanks!
I made a small shelf unit is shop class. We cut the stopped dadoes as far as possible with a dado blade on a table saw. Transferred the stopping point of the dado to the end of the stock, and drew a line on the table in line with the point the dado blades protruded from the table, to know where to stop. Then my instructor showed me how to finish with a chisel. He picked the shortest dado to demonstrate. That dado was shorter than the chisel. The other dadoes were longer than the chisel. We didn't have paring chisels, and had never even heard of a router plane. Had to use the chisel bevel down. Still a good shelf all these years later.
Loved the video, as usual I wish it would continue as opposed to the dreaded stop... yeah I guess I tried too hard with that pun, I'll stop.
That arm is a hairy Harry! Nice video...
Can you recommend a cheap router plane for a beginner?
You can make a great one. But when it comes to router planes the price is a good indicator of quality. ruclips.net/video/-6WaPXnw9Do/видео.htmlsi=HvtviwHSuKmMPlKL here is the one I like to make.
Great video! Thanks!!!!!
Nice. That was a great video.
What is that extra long marking gauge?
The Wheel gauge is a veritas Morticing gauge.
This comment I'm leaving down below, I would also love to see you do a half lap dovetail joint. I like using these on little toes I make and I would like to see your variation on it.
I have done a live series with that one in it a couple times. I have not done a normal video though. ruclips.net/video/vi0Bj-Xd-O8/видео.html
@@WoodByWrightHowTo thank you
Nice and Happy!
A groove fatter than you want it to be, sounds like me, fatter than I want me to be!
Can you do a knee joint? I have a couple I'd like to replace!
Nice!
Why wasn’t this released on Father’s Da-do? 😂
He could've waited till November 19th & released his Dado video on the Doo-Dah day parade.
Groovy
Nice.
Now do a stopped sliding dovetail. A nice loooooong one, say, I dunno, 12". 😁
Here you go. ruclips.net/video/yPbVhF761KQ/видео.html
Now, if your right arm is Harry, what is the left one named?
Snide remark
A sharpening video could solve the ,,Harry arm" problem 🤣
The traditional way taught in trade schools in Norway is to chop out a mortise (2-3 inches) in the front of the groove before sawing. That way you can push out the sawdust in the mortise. I think it majes it easier to get a consistent angle on the sawcut, especially for stopped sliding dovetails. Also allows you to run the saw cut to the full depth making it quicker to chisel out.
Japanese pullsaw along a straight edge also works very well.
Comment down below
Is the other arm named Ron?
Armed with new hairy knowledge! 😂
comment down below
Remarkably snide remark!
CDB
Real question is, should a relief connection be called a momo?
Cdb
More hairy arms shots!
stopped comment down below.
I know Americans love the right to bare arms, but this video had a bit too much bare arms.
Stopped dadoes really slow down production so their application must be considered judiciously. In more than a few examples, it can be more effective to slice off the stopped section and reglue it after the joint is assembled or to cover a throughdado with a piece of molding
I wouldn't have to do very many like that. I think I will have to stick with my trusty trim router.🙂🙂
Stop wait a minute,no comment
These dado jokes are getting out of hand, they must be stopped!
Harry is hairy. 😂
Harry is a camera hog
CDB
comment down below