It most certainly would be better this way. I came up with the idea to make this video after I had already replaced the switch. The switch I am showing is the old switch.
Tried this on my 2008 Mazda 3. After watching the video and for about the first 20 minutes of trying to get the switch out I was skeptical, but eventually it worked. If you take your time and visualize the tab on the bottom you can get it. Only issue was the plastic tab (at least on my car) was fairly brittle and I ended up breaking it. However, it didn't appear to affect the switch too much, it's not really loose and with the knob back on you can't tell that the tab broke.
While replacing my ac expansion valve I realized you can access the back of that switch pretty easily when you remove the glove box, which is super easy to do. 1) remove the grey trim above the glove box, 2) remove the two grey bolts 3) pull the glove box firmly, straight toward the passenger seat, careful not to damage the glove box light 4) remove the glovebox light bulb/socket as one. No need to unscrew the light housing. There are little tabs on the light bulb socket. Press one and it comes out easily. 5) remove the trim piece where your left foot would be if you were sitting in the passenger seat 6) remove two silver flange screws for the center console trim piece that is on the right side of the three ac control knobs. I wasn't able to entirely remove this piece, but removing the two screws gives enough flex in the trim piece that I could stick my hand behind the ac knobs and grab all sides of the two plugs that go into the ac controls. Don't be intimidated. This is super easy. It took me about 5 minutes from fully assembled to touching the back of the ac controls. I would guess with okay mechanical skills it's like a 10-15 minute job to access this. All you need is a Phillips and flat head screw driver for the disassembly. If you want more instructions with pictures for removing the glovebox, search "How To: Change glovebox light mazda3forums.com" and there's a post from 2010 showing it.
Just finished the switch swap on sa 2008 Mazda 3S hatchback. Space is tight to get your hands in under the switch. I used a medium size allen wrench with the short side of wrench going under the switch to push down on the lower latch tab. I also had top of the switch pried with a small flathead slightly past the top two tabs so as to put an outward pressure. Pull on the Allen and the switch pops out. Thank you Ross for you guidance.
Thanks to your comment, I too was able to wiggle it out after getting the top loose. I couldn't get my top top do the pushing but with some rocking and pushing, I heard a click it was out.
It took 15 minutes to get to the switch. It took an hour to firgure out how to disconnect various plugs. Then, it took an hour blindly poking from under the unit trying to pry it off . Then I took a picture on my phone and realized I was poking at the wrong end. Then it took 10 minutes to get the old switch out and another 10 minutes to put everything together. But the schematic helped.
I also was skeptical about the 20 minutes...... but, follow his instructions and that is all it took. You do need one of those tools with the hooks and also pull the switch out first and then you can remove the wired connection, there is enough slack to do this.
Thanks for you great explanation. I, however, wish that you also showed the actual replacement too. Thanks anyway for sharing it.
It most certainly would be better this way. I came up with the idea to make this video after I had already replaced the switch. The switch I am showing is the old switch.
Tried this on my 2008 Mazda 3. After watching the video and for about the first 20 minutes of trying to get the switch out I was skeptical, but eventually it worked. If you take your time and visualize the tab on the bottom you can get it. Only issue was the plastic tab (at least on my car) was fairly brittle and I ended up breaking it. However, it didn't appear to affect the switch too much, it's not really loose and with the knob back on you can't tell that the tab broke.
While replacing my ac expansion valve I realized you can access the back of that switch pretty easily when you remove the glove box, which is super easy to do.
1) remove the grey trim above the glove box,
2) remove the two grey bolts
3) pull the glove box firmly, straight toward the passenger seat, careful not to damage the glove box light
4) remove the glovebox light bulb/socket as one. No need to unscrew the light housing. There are little tabs on the light bulb socket. Press one and it comes out easily.
5) remove the trim piece where your left foot would be if you were sitting in the passenger seat
6) remove two silver flange screws for the center console trim piece that is on the right side of the three ac control knobs. I wasn't able to entirely remove this piece, but removing the two screws gives enough flex in the trim piece that I could stick my hand behind the ac knobs and grab all sides of the two plugs that go into the ac controls.
Don't be intimidated. This is super easy. It took me about 5 minutes from fully assembled to touching the back of the ac controls. I would guess with okay mechanical skills it's like a 10-15 minute job to access this.
All you need is a Phillips and flat head screw driver for the disassembly. If you want more instructions with pictures for removing the glovebox, search "How To: Change glovebox light mazda3forums.com" and there's a post from 2010 showing it.
Just finished the switch swap on sa 2008 Mazda 3S hatchback. Space is tight to get your hands in under the switch. I used a medium size allen wrench with the short side of wrench going under the switch to push down on the lower latch tab. I also had top of the switch pried with a small flathead slightly past the top two tabs so as to put an outward pressure. Pull on the Allen and the switch pops out. Thank you Ross for you guidance.
Thank you. Worked like a charm and I didn't even need the probing tool. I wedged and wiggled it right out of there.
Thanks to your comment, I too was able to wiggle it out after getting the top loose. I couldn't get my top top do the pushing but with some rocking and pushing, I heard a click it was out.
I’m having this issue right now, thanks for the video!!
Thanks for the tips. I was able to push from below near the same spot you mentioned to get it out. And after some cleaning, it's as good as new.
No need to buy new switch just open it up and bend copper taps tighter and clean with alcohol and Qtip.
Maybe post a vid on how to?
It took 15 minutes to get to the switch. It took an hour to firgure out how to disconnect various plugs. Then, it took an hour blindly poking from under the unit trying to pry it off . Then I took a picture on my phone and realized I was poking at the wrong end. Then it took 10 minutes to get the old switch out and another 10 minutes to put everything together. But the schematic helped.
Thanks man
I also was skeptical about the 20 minutes...... but, follow his instructions and that is all it took. You do need one of those tools with the hooks and also pull the switch out first and then you can remove the wired connection, there is enough slack to do this.
Bless you man
Thank you, Ross. This is exactly what happens with my fan control. I have a 2006 Mazda 3 (2.3L) Hatchback. Where I can buy this new switch?