I do appreciate the time it takes to make one of these videos. It’s really hard to give it flow and keep it tied together. I’ve tried making a few because I want to share some of my own rather unusual trade, but I’ve never produced a satisfactory result. Kudos to you! I really enjoyed watching this.
I said it before and I'll say it again... stunning. I never would have thought to use the black Rubio in this way, but it does bring out the natural beauty of the grain. Well done, sir.
@@fantinwoodworking They did a study once on amongst other brain related things, how our sub-conscious processes problems while we are sleeping. When I find myself wanting a fix for a problem, sometimes I let it ride for days, and eventually I wake up and go "Yes! That's it!" I certainly advocate this approach as it certainly has come through for me several times.
Really well done. The design, construction, build description, all really nice. Showing and explaining your mistakes and how you dealt with them is important because we learn from them as well.
This was very enjoyable to watch. Excellent craftsmanship and attention to detail, resulting in a beautiful piece of furniture. The videography was also very nicely done, and I particularly appreciated hearing your reasoning about why you were doing each step, as well as showing us how. More please! 🙂
@@EddyCarroll I really appreciate your feedback. It’s great to know the video adds value in someway. Woodworking is somewhat of a lonely sport, so this is a great way to be able to share (most of) the thoughts that goes through my mind during a build so others can perhaps take advantage of it as well. Thanks again!
really like that subtle curvature on the drawers. I'd might have overlooked it if I'd encounter that furniture in the wild, but it takes it to a whole new level
Excelent workmanship, I found myself almost screaming at you when you were machining Dominos to the back panel. My first son is 45 years old and I have been a cabinetmaker years beforehe was born. The way you solvedthe front/side curve was a stroke of genius. The advise I recommend whenever backs are required, for many reasons, always screw them on. Excellent work. from design to finish.
Not gonna lie, cried a little when you poured the rubio black on there, but it did come out great in the end! The curved drawer fronts definitely upscale this piece.
Any thoughts on using red oak for an application like this? Would be indistinguishable from white oak after an opaque black finish and save everyone some $$$
@@SteveKuznetsov it’s “almost” indistinguishable, except the grain is much more open and it would likely cause more problems in the shaping of the sides and drawer fronts.
Great job! Thank you for leaving in your “mistakes”, very helpful seeing how you adjusted and corrected. Keep producing content of this quality and your subscriber numbers will grow significantly.
Great video......because you reveal the mistakes and (almost) heartache when something goes wrong - real world experience. Also, a simple and elegant project. Thankyou.
A very nicely designed piece made with a great deal of skill. I want to particularly express my appreciation about the quality of the video. Not only the quality of the shots but also the voiceover in explaining all the steps and including the (inevitable?) issues we all get during a build. I do use black oak on my builds. Usually as a contrast to, say, a cherry top rather than a piece wholly black. To achieve shades from grey to jet black, I prefer to use the very old method of ebonising. To do this, I simply mix pieces of steel wool with vinegar in a glass jar and let it stand overnight. When applied to any timber with a tannin content (and oak has that in spades), the timber immediately darkens. I can leave it for 5 minutes to go jet black or stop it earlier (I use rag with an alkali on it) to get shades of grey. This method is really cost-free and very natural. It dries within a few hours and then I apply a suitable finish. For tables, I have learned to use Natura Hard Wax oil as it goes further and costs less than Rubio. I find it goes to that essential touch-dry state within 30 minutes or so - depending upon workshop temperature and humidity. A couple of points if I may. You seem (quite possible a feature of the video editing) to use pieces straight from the crosscut saw. I always find saw marks and with oak, burns. So, I always finish with a hand plane to remove those marks and get the best finish. If you do this, then you might want to show it so that newbies understand that step. The second point is really to show your tool sharpening process and how often you do it. It would be very helpful for everyone to understand how you get those essential sharp blades and if/how during a prolonged chiselling or planing part, you maintain the sharpness. And I liked and subscribed.
@@theofarmmanager267 thank you very much - very good points! I wanted to use the Rubio intense black on this versus the vinegar / steel wool process because I wanted to match the “blackness” of the other piece I had made for this same client which was in the same “room”, so I didn’t want to risk it - I find that this product will give me a very consistent color across the same project or different projects. As far as using pieces straight from the crosscut sled, I didn’t get much burn, if at all for this project. And I prioritize getting the parts absolutely right as far as size goes, and if end grain is visible at all and it has burn marks, I will use a block plane or a bench plane after to fix it. I had to do that mostly at the bottom of the cabinet, since the side piece had end grain visible at the bottom - good point to show it in a future video. I’ve yet to try the Natura hardwax oil, been gravitating towards Rubio simply due to my familiarity with it. Thanks for the sub, really appreciate it!!
Just stumbled on your video and decided to subscribe when I saw how you addressed your "mistake" on the curved side pieces and made the fix an improvement on the design. Very good quality video, well produced and edited, too. Thanks. I look forward to seeing more of your work.
I found your channel tonight so congrats - you must be doing something right if RUclips is push you forward. Creating good content is very difficult but you have cracked it my friend. Great woodworking skills and really personable audio content - don’t change a thing, well done. Gerard
Based on the production quality and audio, I was surprised to see your subscriber count. Keep doing videos like this and you’ll find a great audience. Love the video and project!
Same reaction here - and of course I hit the subscribe button. This video: the quality, the editing - yes, also your humour - on a very high level. Big thanks from Cologne 👋
@@fantinwoodworkingyes totally agree, it’s strange with RUclips how great videos don’t always attract a big audience, but if you carry a like this with great videos you’re gonna have a massive audience, I too have only been on RUclips for a few years and you find it suddenly goes from a couple of thousand to 5000-6000 subs with one video. I’m definitely subscribing and looking forward to more of your videos. 👍🏼
Its all a lot easier when you have all the machine tools you have, unlimited possibilities with all that lot. Well done looks great a true professional.
Love the way you made the curved corners, I’ve been thinking about how to make a drawer box to go under a baby crib I made for the latest grandson coming in October, thanks, you gave me a great idea how to do it
Super interesting project, very smart solutions and a beautiful outcome. Great work! Thank you for sharing! (And thank you for the mistakes too. Learned a lot. 🙂)
@@fantinwoodworking After the first minutes I was wondering how you would manage the different grain direction between body and drawer at the critical rounded outside, but with the beautiful black finish, this question is not really relevant. You talked about "the designer" if this wasn´t ironical because it was you :-) : The only thing, I saw in the last ready and attached view: If the bottom of the shelf closed up in the middle section with the front of the drawers, it would not look like "a missing peace/drawer". It would look "closer" and not as a "gap". Hard to explain, but I´m shure, you saw that too and thought about it already. Anyway, maybe a matter of taste...
@@marcusbrammertz3792 When I say designer I mean the interior designer I partner with for a lot of my projects, and we collaborated together on this piece, although the final design was mine. And there was a need for an open shelf in the piece to showcase some decor items, it was a design requirement :).
@@fantinwoodworking Yes, I understand. I ment the front end of the free space between the drawers. It would be "more closing" and more intentional, if the bottom of the field in the middle (at the bottom) closes up with the front of the drawers. Hard to explain :-)
I was intently watching the video until at 24:18 into the video I saw my life flash before my eyes. There is was, the antagonist of the video... black Rubio Monocoat. The grain once beautiful, in all it's quarter-saw glory lay stripped. Looks great, I am subscribing.
That Domino dock is fantastic, I didn't know that existed. Great content, fantastic build, please keep it up. P.S. I was pretty stressed when you were routing the rabbet and the piece was sliding away from you. some sort of hold-down or even just something behind it to keep it from sliding would make that cut a lot safer and less error-prone.
the piece turned out beautiful. I'm wondering why you didn't use red oak if you were going to stain it black anyway? The material cost would be 1/3 of the white oak, wouldn't it?
Thank you, yes it would be cheaper but red oak’s pores are a lot more open than white oak, and shaping the curves like I did on this one would not only be more difficult but would likely not turn out as refined as this one.
Very nice! I liked the fact you showed your mistakes and how you rectified them… I’ve subbed, looking forward to more builds. Just out of interest where are you based? I noticed you are using imperial measurements.
Thank you so much for the words and the sub! I'm based in the US, Washington state :). Yes, I have a bit on an accent so not originally from here, but been here long enough to get used to the imperial system :).
Thanks for the detailed insights on this build. I like the design very much. I would have tried to keep the grain direction of the sides and drawer fronts in the same direction, which of course would weaken the drawer front edges. Did you consider this option in the design?
I did. The main reason for going with this approach was because I wanted grain continuity from left to right. A less important factor is also that I didn't have a board wide enough for the width of the fronts, or a planer / jointer wide enough to make that one piece, and joining boards like I did with the sides wasn't an option, since I I don't like seeing boards joined at the top of drawer fronts, which is often an area of focus. Hope that makes sense.
Looks great! Something I don't understand is how the back panel will allow for wood movement, considering the wood movement is mostly tangential, wouldn't the back panel push against the top and bottom in the case that it expands? Considering you chose to account for that with the side panels and diveders, I'm curious what your thought process was with this? All the best!
Great question, I should have mentioned that. The back panel was 1/16” shorter than the overall height, exactly to account for that. It was pinned at the bottom and allows for movement at the top. The gap was at the top and the French cleat piece was behind it so you can’t really see it. Hope it makes sense.
I'm curious at 6:50 in your video. How are you accounting for wood movement of the top and bottom as those boards seem to be held by the dominos? thanks for the video, beautiful work!
The sides and top and bottom all move in the same direction and roughly at the same rate. The sides move front to back, so do the top and bottom. That’s actually another reason why the sides grain are laid vertically versus horizontally. If they were horizontal, the sides would “lock” the top from moving, hope that makes sense.
beautiful work and lovely edit, loved the drawer reveal continuing around the curved sides. Where are you from if you don't mind me asking? you use 'merican units but don't sound like one. I'm also interested why you chose to add the metal tabs for the handles.I feel they are surplus to requirement, for instance a bullnosed router bit could create a nice finger grip on the underside of the drawer fronts. subscribing btw :)
Thank you so much for the words and the sub! You’re right, I’m not originally from the US but have been here for 20 years. So already used to the imperial units but still with an accent lol. And good question! The bullnosed drawer front or something integrated was definitely a consideration but the designer and the client opted for bringing some black metal element (which was prevalent in that room) to the piece.
@@plop31 I've calculated the maximum movement possible for this, it will be more than fine for rift sawn and the gap I left. And this was a client's decision.
It's very nice! However drawer handles sucks. I would keep it without handles or add hidden cut underneath front for open draw. Or use push-2-open drawer system.
@@yellooweyes89 push to open would require the drawer front to sit slightly proud of the top and sides, so wouldn’t work for this piece. Bottom line is I also agree a cleaner look would be nice, but when you’re making a piece for a client, they have the last call, and that’s the one they’ve made.
Have been in this business over 40 yrs and your table saw cuts at the 8 minute mark really got my pulse rate up. It worked out for you THIS TIME, but in the mid 80's I had an apprentice who did a similar cut and it damaged him slightly, the saw, the blade, the work, and a large chunk shot across the shop and hit the one actually smart apprentice (a girl btw) in the back while she was using a machine. It also ended his time in the shop with me since I know when the universe is telling me to take action. Retired now and watch videos over coffee, so this is my free opinion- please work smarter.
@@kingofcastlechaos I use a miter sled now for these cuts - i didn’t have one then. I knew there was a risk of the piece rotating and that’s why you see me holding it closer to the fence with 2 hands and going super carefully. You will never see me advocating for it, but I did know that I was doing. Appreciate the concern!
@@imakedookie make yourself a sled that holds the work securely and gives the operator a sturdy place to make the cut in safety. We have done some INSANE cuts over the years in total safety because we took the time to make a sled. Also, per his remark- fantinwoodworking knew he was doing something sketchy, and I could see by his grip in the video. TRUST YOUR GUT! and you will do well in this industry. Remember to have fun and pick every old brain you can. When I was an apprentice I would use the "What's the neatest trick you know regarding xxxx? (layout, weird joints, finishing, etc.)
@@fantinwoodworking I would have used the bandsaw to rough out that excess stock. I did like that tip about sanding too close to an edge- I have ruined a LOT of work with powered sanders. Actually not "ruined", but most of those oopsies became "features" (lol). Since you were working with a designer and a client you would not have had that leeway. You do good work, stay safe.
@@kingofcastlechaos thank you! I was assuming it would be similar to a tapered leg sled.. so when a sled is used, I assume it is better to have built in clamps even if adding and adjusting them to hold the workpiece might take more time... Or is it enough to just build a jig shape and use hand pressure?
I paused it for a minute and though; why did I spent time of my life watching perfection culminating by ruining it with pouring rubio black on it. But NO I loved it. Still woud love to see a clear finish to compare
This was a client piece and I typically don’t disclose the cost, but if you’re interested in something similar, you can reach out to me and we can discuss. Thanks so much!
At 4:13 your assembly table? (First time on the channel-you’ve already got a sub) is that phenolic plywood that you used? If so I had a few questions about it for you.( If you already have another video, you can point me that way as well) does it help prevent glue from sticking? Any downsides to using that material? I like the black so everything stands out better. I know it is expensive though, so I wanted to ask questions from someone who has experience using it on the daily
Hey thanks for the sub! Appreciate it! This is my assembly / outfield table, and because it needed to be sturdy, I've used a bottom layer of 3/4" plywood, then a 3/4" MDF and a black laminate on top (i.e.: Formica). It certainly does prevent glue from sticking - and frankly that's why I decided to use it. Clean up is a breeze. The only downside I can think of is that it's somewhat of a "slippery" surface in case you want to try and secure a piece you are working on with hand tools. My next assembly table will likely still have a black laminate, but with dog holes, and I think that's going to give me more options and help secure pieces more firmly (I have T-tracks at the moment, which I don't recommend as a primary way of securing pieces to your workbench). Hope that helps! I will soon make a new assembly table and make a video about it, hopefully that can help as well.
Running the short ends of your sides against the rip fence without the sliding miter fence also is a great way to get a very violent kick back,very dangerous
@@tomwise7783I have a miter sled I use for these operations now, but didn’t have one then. I was aware of the risk and went really carefully. Thanks for your concern though.
Cutting that long piece sideways against the fence instead of using a miter gauge or cross cut sled seemed like a big kickback risk to me. little bit cringey, but nice looking project
Not sure why you didn’t solve the mistake by simply beveling that edge so that the seam between drawer front and side panel would be perpendicular to the tangent of the curve? It would have also hidden the drawer hardware, but it would have eliminated the fragile knife edge of the side panel by giving you a 90 degree corner on both sides at the break in the curvature.
@brandonrippeonphoto I said essentially painted it black. I looks like shit. Dark black stain. Total shit. Urethane would have made that wood grain pop. Combined with a light stain first. You think that shit looks good? You must read in braille.
For this specific piece, I don't have permission from the client to reveal the price, but if you are interested in a similar piece, I'd be happy to have a discussion. My email is listed on my channel page. Thanks a lot!
I'm a german joiner and can just say: great work and video!keep it up!
@@StefanDaking1 Vielen Danke! :)
I do appreciate the time it takes to make one of these videos. It’s really hard to give it flow and keep it tied together. I’ve tried making a few because I want to share some of my own rather unusual trade, but I’ve never produced a satisfactory result. Kudos to you! I really enjoyed watching this.
Thank you! It's not easy to get it right and it’s a process, but it's a lot of fun. Keep trying!
I said it before and I'll say it again... stunning. I never would have thought to use the black Rubio in this way, but it does bring out the natural beauty of the grain. Well done, sir.
@@MarkLitchfield thank you so much Mark - I agree, the grain gets elevated to the first plane this way :)
Excellent work! The comments about turning mistakes into improvements is inspirational.
@@micron001 thanks so much! I feel like mistakes will always happen, so it’s better to always think about how things can be better.
@@fantinwoodworking They did a study once on amongst other brain related things, how our sub-conscious processes problems while we are sleeping. When I find myself wanting a fix for a problem, sometimes I let it ride for days, and eventually I wake up and go "Yes! That's it!" I certainly advocate this approach as it certainly has come through for me several times.
@@micron001 very interesting. And very true. This happens a lot.
Looking forward to the next one. This piece was one of the most professional looking and well designed I’ve seen in a long time on RUclips.
@@Dennisknutsson wow thank you so much. Really appreciate it!
You got me with the ad read joke.
This turned out great!
@@gregmize01 haha - I’m glad you liked it, thank you!!
I instinctively went to skip knowing it was about to be a clumsy ad transition
Really well done.
The design, construction, build description, all really nice.
Showing and explaining your mistakes and how you dealt with them is important because we learn from them as well.
@@JuliusD.Haversack thank you so much!
This was very enjoyable to watch. Excellent craftsmanship and attention to detail, resulting in a beautiful piece of furniture.
The videography was also very nicely done, and I particularly appreciated hearing your reasoning about why you were doing each step, as well as showing us how. More please! 🙂
@@EddyCarroll I really appreciate your feedback. It’s great to know the video adds value in someway. Woodworking is somewhat of a lonely sport, so this is a great way to be able to share (most of) the thoughts that goes through my mind during a build so others can perhaps take advantage of it as well. Thanks again!
really like that subtle curvature on the drawers. I'd might have overlooked it if I'd encounter that furniture in the wild, but it takes it to a whole new level
@@DresdenFPV thank you so much!
Awesome looking piece of art. Thank you for filming it out for us. Loved it.
@@PapaDoo thank you so much - appreciate it! :)
You're an AMAZING woodworker and I love the way you explain and show things. Great job
@@tracyk415 thank you so much Tracy!
Thoughtful design and beautiful execution! Well done Fantin. I am very excited you now have a RUclips channel and will share your knowledge!
Thanks my friend… glad you liked it :)
Excelent workmanship, I found myself almost screaming at you when you were machining Dominos to the back panel. My first son is 45 years old and I have been a cabinetmaker years beforehe was born. The way you solvedthe front/side curve was a stroke of genius. The advise I recommend whenever backs are required, for many reasons, always screw them on. Excellent work. from design to finish.
@@davidanthonyguy167 hahaha thanks David. I truly appreciate it!
Not gonna lie, cried a little when you poured the rubio black on there, but it did come out great in the end! The curved drawer fronts definitely upscale this piece.
@@5ElementsWoodworking thanks TS!! Appreciate it!
Any thoughts on using red oak for an application like this? Would be indistinguishable from white oak after an opaque black finish and save everyone some $$$
@@SteveKuznetsov it’s “almost” indistinguishable, except the grain is much more open and it would likely cause more problems in the shaping of the sides and drawer fronts.
Great job! Thank you for leaving in your “mistakes”, very helpful seeing how you adjusted and corrected. Keep producing content of this quality and your subscriber numbers will grow significantly.
@@kevinc5234 thank you so much!!
Now that looks REALLY nice! The black looks so good. Ash is amazing and inexpensive wood to work with.
Great Job Fantin! Love the bold look of the black dye.
@@ScottWalshWoodworking thank you so much Scotty :).
Great video......because you reveal the mistakes and (almost) heartache when something goes wrong - real world experience. Also, a simple and elegant project. Thankyou.
Thank you so much!
A very nicely designed piece made with a great deal of skill. I want to particularly express my appreciation about the quality of the video. Not only the quality of the shots but also the voiceover in explaining all the steps and including the (inevitable?) issues we all get during a build.
I do use black oak on my builds. Usually as a contrast to, say, a cherry top rather than a piece wholly black. To achieve shades from grey to jet black, I prefer to use the very old method of ebonising. To do this, I simply mix pieces of steel wool with vinegar in a glass jar and let it stand overnight. When applied to any timber with a tannin content (and oak has that in spades), the timber immediately darkens. I can leave it for 5 minutes to go jet black or stop it earlier (I use rag with an alkali on it) to get shades of grey. This method is really cost-free and very natural. It dries within a few hours and then I apply a suitable finish. For tables, I have learned to use Natura Hard Wax oil as it goes further and costs less than Rubio. I find it goes to that essential touch-dry state within 30 minutes or so - depending upon workshop temperature and humidity.
A couple of points if I may. You seem (quite possible a feature of the video editing) to use pieces straight from the crosscut saw. I always find saw marks and with oak, burns. So, I always finish with a hand plane to remove those marks and get the best finish. If you do this, then you might want to show it so that newbies understand that step. The second point is really to show your tool sharpening process and how often you do it. It would be very helpful for everyone to understand how you get those essential sharp blades and if/how during a prolonged chiselling or planing part, you maintain the sharpness.
And I liked and subscribed.
@@theofarmmanager267 thank you very much - very good points! I wanted to use the Rubio intense black on this versus the vinegar / steel wool process because I wanted to match the “blackness” of the other piece I had made for this same client which was in the same “room”, so I didn’t want to risk it - I find that this product will give me a very consistent color across the same project or different projects. As far as using pieces straight from the crosscut sled, I didn’t get much burn, if at all for this project. And I prioritize getting the parts absolutely right as far as size goes, and if end grain is visible at all and it has burn marks, I will use a block plane or a bench plane after to fix it. I had to do that mostly at the bottom of the cabinet, since the side piece had end grain visible at the bottom - good point to show it in a future video. I’ve yet to try the Natura hardwax oil, been gravitating towards Rubio simply due to my familiarity with it. Thanks for the sub, really appreciate it!!
This was a fantasic video! I really enjoyed you talking through your reasoning behind certain wood types, or directions etc. I learned a lot!
Glad you enjoyed it! Thanks so much!!
Just stumbled on your video and decided to subscribe when I saw how you addressed your "mistake" on the curved side pieces and made the fix an improvement on the design. Very good quality video, well produced and edited, too. Thanks. I look forward to seeing more of your work.
@@thomlipiczky9021 thank you so much! Really appreciate that!
Beautiful work! Thanks for sharing how you did those round-over corners!
@@fiveduckstudio thank you so much!!
Again i learnd a lot from a nother men's work. Looks brilliant and was fun to watch. Thanks for sharing
I appreciate that!!
I found your channel tonight so congrats - you must be doing something right if RUclips is push you forward. Creating good content is very difficult but you have cracked it my friend.
Great woodworking skills and really personable audio content - don’t change a thing, well done.
Gerard
@@gerardgreenan907 I truly appreciate that!!
Based on the production quality and audio, I was surprised to see your subscriber count. Keep doing videos like this and you’ll find a great audience. Love the video and project!
@@furthur4u that means a lot thanks so much!!
Same reaction here - and of course I hit the subscribe button. This video: the quality, the editing - yes, also your humour - on a very high level. Big thanks from Cologne 👋
@@fantinwoodworkingyes totally agree, it’s strange with RUclips how great videos don’t always attract a big audience, but if you carry a like this with great videos you’re gonna have a massive audience, I too have only been on RUclips for a few years and you find it suddenly goes from a couple of thousand to 5000-6000 subs with one video. I’m definitely subscribing and looking forward to more of your videos. 👍🏼
@Terrythemaker really appreciate it!!
@@thomasbechtelmechtl5405Danke Shön!!
Its all a lot easier when you have all the machine tools you have, unlimited possibilities with all that lot. Well done looks great a true professional.
super cool... suits their house beautifully too. Can see your channel growing a lot, enjoyable watch!
@@LeonWiddicombe I really appreciate it!
beautiful build! Functional and unique! And thanks a ton for mentioning the Domino Dock!
@@ramonartful thank you so much Ramon! The dock is awesome and so are you :).
Lovely design and nicely executed. Thank you for sharing the issues and how you over came them
@@Parafinn1970 thank you so much!!
I love the shadow line u put on it. Makes it look so clean. Good work
Thank you so much!!
I was a bit worried when you put that dark Rubio on it but wow, that turned out really nice in the end. Wonderful craftsmanship!
@@stumcconnel thank you!!
Let the haters hate, Fantin… because that is STUNNING!! I love your style and love your videos! Keep em coming!!
@@robert.stokes haha I really appreciate it Robert :) 👍🤪
Lovely, nice to see Miller Dowels used! Great work
@@FDdesigns thank you! I love using them on my drawers.
What a beautiful piece! I really enjoyed your video and the way you corrected mishap throughout your build.
Glad you enjoyed it!
Love your design and finish
Glad you like it!
Love the way you made the curved corners, I’ve been thinking about how to make a drawer box to go under a baby crib I made for the latest grandson coming in October, thanks, you gave me a great idea how to do it
@@solorzano5810 awesome, I’m glad it was helpful!! Congratulations for the grandson!!
amazing work and production AND narration! thanks for sharing. very inspiring!
@@regandediana thank you so much! 🙏🏻
Great work Fantin! Turned out awesome!
@@gandmdesignco thank you so much Greg!!
Beautiful work, Fantin! Awesome job
Thanks a lot!
Excellent video technique and voice over = Very watchable the whole way thru!
@@BlueSky-j9d thank you so much, really appreciate it!
Super interesting project, very smart solutions and a beautiful outcome. Great work! Thank you for sharing! (And thank you for the mistakes too. Learned a lot. 🙂)
@@marcusbrammertz3792 I really appreciate that, thank you!
@@fantinwoodworking After the first minutes I was wondering how you would manage the different grain direction between body and drawer at the critical rounded outside, but with the beautiful black finish, this question is not really relevant. You talked about "the designer" if this wasn´t ironical because it was you :-) : The only thing, I saw in the last ready and attached view: If the bottom of the shelf closed up in the middle section with the front of the drawers, it would not look like "a missing peace/drawer". It would look "closer" and not as a "gap". Hard to explain, but I´m shure, you saw that too and thought about it already. Anyway, maybe a matter of taste...
@@marcusbrammertz3792 When I say designer I mean the interior designer I partner with for a lot of my projects, and we collaborated together on this piece, although the final design was mine. And there was a need for an open shelf in the piece to showcase some decor items, it was a design requirement :).
@@fantinwoodworking Yes, I understand. I ment the front end of the free space between the drawers. It would be "more closing" and more intentional, if the bottom of the field in the middle (at the bottom) closes up with the front of the drawers. Hard to explain :-)
@@marcusbrammertz3792 I think I know what you mean :)
I was intently watching the video until at 24:18 into the video I saw my life flash before my eyes. There is was, the antagonist of the video... black Rubio Monocoat. The grain once beautiful, in all it's quarter-saw glory lay stripped.
Looks great, I am subscribing.
@@jonprovencebell4171 love that! Thank you so much and thanks for the sub!
That Domino dock is fantastic, I didn't know that existed.
Great content, fantastic build, please keep it up.
P.S. I was pretty stressed when you were routing the rabbet and the piece was sliding away from you. some sort of hold-down or even just something behind it to keep it from sliding would make that cut a lot safer and less error-prone.
Thanks a lot. I now use a miter gauge / sled for these kind of things. I didn’t have one at that point but that’s indeed a good point.
A beautiful piece and a stunning execution!
Thank you so much!!
Great technique and beautiful design.
Thank you so much 😊
Phenomenal work. This looks amazing!
@@chuckmeriam9930 really appreciate it!!
I think the project made made with love and passion
the piece turned out beautiful. I'm wondering why you didn't use red oak if you were going to stain it black anyway? The material cost would be 1/3 of the white oak, wouldn't it?
Thank you, yes it would be cheaper but red oak’s pores are a lot more open than white oak, and shaping the curves like I did on this one would not only be more difficult but would likely not turn out as refined as this one.
That's one beautiful piece!!
@@nicros10 thank you!!
wow really very nice work very nice finish excellent technique.
good continuation
Thank you very much
Nice job!
Thank you! Cheers!
Just found this channel and really liked this video. Looking forward to the next ones.
@@ericotm thank you so much!
Priceless piece.
@@richardvankesteren7013 thank you!!
Very nice! I liked the fact you showed your mistakes and how you rectified them… I’ve subbed, looking forward to more builds. Just out of interest where are you based? I noticed you are using imperial measurements.
Thank you so much for the words and the sub! I'm based in the US, Washington state :). Yes, I have a bit on an accent so not originally from here, but been here long enough to get used to the imperial system :).
Beautiful piece 👌🏻
Thank you! Cheers!
Super nice … i don’t know wether people paying for it, appreciate the dedication it requires …. Would you give us a hint how much you asked for it?
@@martinospina4904 can’t really tell you the price because I haven’t gotten consent from the client to do so but northwards of $4K.
Beautiful piece. Well done
@@AncientCityCraftworks thank you so much!!
Beautiful piece!!!
Thank you very much!
Nice job mate
Thank you! Cheers!
good, good , jobs thanks😎👌
Thank you! :)
Thanks for the detailed insights on this build. I like the design very much. I would have tried to keep the grain direction of the sides and drawer fronts in the same direction, which of course would weaken the drawer front edges. Did you consider this option in the design?
I did. The main reason for going with this approach was because I wanted grain continuity from left to right. A less important factor is also that I didn't have a board wide enough for the width of the fronts, or a planer / jointer wide enough to make that one piece, and joining boards like I did with the sides wasn't an option, since I I don't like seeing boards joined at the top of drawer fronts, which is often an area of focus. Hope that makes sense.
@@fantinwoodworking That makes absolutely sense. Thanks for your answer.
Great build! Awesome!
Edit: I totally believe that that bearded bourbon moth guy would approve of the Domino-hip-thrust©™
Haha I think so too. I like the trademark thingy you did there… might use it in the future :)
Looks great!
Something I don't understand is how the back panel will allow for wood movement, considering the wood movement is mostly tangential, wouldn't the back panel push against the top and bottom in the case that it expands?
Considering you chose to account for that with the side panels and diveders, I'm curious what your thought process was with this?
All the best!
Great question, I should have mentioned that. The back panel was 1/16” shorter than the overall height, exactly to account for that. It was pinned at the bottom and allows for movement at the top. The gap was at the top and the French cleat piece was behind it so you can’t really see it. Hope it makes sense.
@@fantinwoodworking makes perfect sense! thank you for answering 😊
I'm curious at 6:50 in your video. How are you accounting for wood movement of the top and bottom as those boards seem to be held by the dominos? thanks for the video, beautiful work!
The sides and top and bottom all move in the same direction and roughly at the same rate. The sides move front to back, so do the top and bottom. That’s actually another reason why the sides grain are laid vertically versus horizontally. If they were horizontal, the sides would “lock” the top from moving, hope that makes sense.
beautiful work and lovely edit, loved the drawer reveal continuing around the curved sides. Where are you from if you don't mind me asking? you use 'merican units but don't sound like one. I'm also interested why you chose to add the metal tabs for the handles.I feel they are surplus to requirement, for instance a bullnosed router bit could create a nice finger grip on the underside of the drawer fronts. subscribing btw :)
Thank you so much for the words and the sub! You’re right, I’m not originally from the US but have been here for 20 years. So already used to the imperial units but still with an accent lol. And good question! The bullnosed drawer front or something integrated was definitely a consideration but the designer and the client opted for bringing some black metal element (which was prevalent in that room) to the piece.
@@plop31 I've calculated the maximum movement possible for this, it will be more than fine for rift sawn and the gap I left. And this was a client's decision.
nice work. Thanks for sharing!!
@@mvred100 thank you!!!
Thanks for your video. What drawing program do you use?
I use SketchUp.
Stunning piece. Earned a subscribe.
Thank you so much!
@@fantinwoodworking No. Thank you!
Excellent work , can I ask how long did it take to make this project ?
Thank you! It took me a couple of weeks.
Thank you for the reply 🙏
Blessings from Ireland 🇮🇪
Nice!
Thank you! Cheers!
Nice piece but I think that cross cutting of narrow pieces using the fence will one day lead to a nasty kickback.
great video
what is the design software used?
@@mxmartinelli1 I use sketchup. Thank you!
Really Beautiful!
Thank you! 😊
It's very nice! However drawer handles sucks. I would keep it without handles or add hidden cut underneath front for open draw. Or use push-2-open drawer system.
@@yellooweyes89 push to open would require the drawer front to sit slightly proud of the top and sides, so wouldn’t work for this piece. Bottom line is I also agree a cleaner look would be nice, but when you’re making a piece for a client, they have the last call, and that’s the one they’ve made.
Looks amazing
Thank you so much!
Well, you asked: I think it's beautiful!!
@@quicknik107 well, I thank you very much! :)
I’ve.seen this corner. technique on Pedulla Studios channel. I’ll be using on some boxes soon.
Nice, don't remember watching that on his channel. I know Keith Johnson actually used it in one of his projects. Good luck with your boxes!
great video, thanks! what's the name/source of the saw-track router guide?
Thank you so much! It’s a Powertec guide, just added a link in the description.
Mucho trabajo, pero excelente resultado!!
Have been in this business over 40 yrs and your table saw cuts at the 8 minute mark really got my pulse rate up. It worked out for you THIS TIME, but in the mid 80's I had an apprentice who did a similar cut and it damaged him slightly, the saw, the blade, the work, and a large chunk shot across the shop and hit the one actually smart apprentice (a girl btw) in the back while she was using a machine. It also ended his time in the shop with me since I know when the universe is telling me to take action. Retired now and watch videos over coffee, so this is my free opinion- please work smarter.
How would you recommend cutting this bevel properly? For context I am a mill-cabinet apprentice on my 3rd year.
@@kingofcastlechaos I use a miter sled now for these cuts - i didn’t have one then. I knew there was a risk of the piece rotating and that’s why you see me holding it closer to the fence with 2 hands and going super carefully. You will never see me advocating for it, but I did know that I was doing. Appreciate the concern!
@@imakedookie make yourself a sled that holds the work securely and gives the operator a sturdy place to make the cut in safety. We have done some INSANE cuts over the years in total safety because we took the time to make a sled.
Also, per his remark- fantinwoodworking knew he was doing something sketchy, and I could see by his grip in the video. TRUST YOUR GUT! and you will do well in this industry. Remember to have fun and pick every old brain you can. When I was an apprentice I would use the "What's the neatest trick you know regarding xxxx? (layout, weird joints, finishing, etc.)
@@fantinwoodworking I would have used the bandsaw to rough out that excess stock. I did like that tip about sanding too close to an edge- I have ruined a LOT of work with powered sanders. Actually not "ruined", but most of those oopsies became "features" (lol). Since you were working with a designer and a client you would not have had that leeway. You do good work, stay safe.
@@kingofcastlechaos thank you! I was assuming it would be similar to a tapered leg sled.. so when a sled is used, I assume it is better to have built in clamps even if adding and adjusting them to hold the workpiece might take more time... Or is it enough to just build a jig shape and use hand pressure?
I paused it for a minute and though; why did I spent time of my life watching perfection culminating by ruining it with pouring rubio black on it. But NO I loved it. Still woud love to see a clear finish to compare
what was the peice for this piece?
This was a client piece and I typically don’t disclose the cost, but if you’re interested in something similar, you can reach out to me and we can discuss. Thanks so much!
Good video. Liked and subbed !
@@JulienB_BTW thank you so much!!
Good job!
Thank you!
Very nice!!
Thank you!
At 4:13 your assembly table? (First time on the channel-you’ve already got a sub) is that phenolic plywood that you used? If so I had a few questions about it for you.( If you already have another video, you can point me that way as well) does it help prevent glue from sticking? Any downsides to using that material? I like the black so everything stands out better. I know it is expensive though, so I wanted to ask questions from someone who has experience using it on the daily
Hey thanks for the sub! Appreciate it! This is my assembly / outfield table, and because it needed to be sturdy, I've used a bottom layer of 3/4" plywood, then a 3/4" MDF and a black laminate on top (i.e.: Formica). It certainly does prevent glue from sticking - and frankly that's why I decided to use it. Clean up is a breeze. The only downside I can think of is that it's somewhat of a "slippery" surface in case you want to try and secure a piece you are working on with hand tools. My next assembly table will likely still have a black laminate, but with dog holes, and I think that's going to give me more options and help secure pieces more firmly (I have T-tracks at the moment, which I don't recommend as a primary way of securing pieces to your workbench). Hope that helps! I will soon make a new assembly table and make a video about it, hopefully that can help as well.
great videos, thanks
fantastic
@@ApolloWoodwork thank you!!
Running the short ends of your sides against the rip fence without the sliding miter fence also is a great way to get a very violent kick back,very dangerous
@@tomwise7783I have a miter sled I use for these operations now, but didn’t have one then. I was aware of the risk and went really carefully. Thanks for your concern though.
Subbed - good stuff 👍
Just finished the video - that black rubio 😭not to my taste at all - lovely piece and great craftsmanship regardless👍👍
I love this, except for the stain at the end. Seeing the grain is cool, but not worth it IMO. I won't get over that.
Subscribed. 😉👍
@@pangrac1 thank you so much!!
Cutting that long piece sideways against the fence instead of using a miter gauge or cross cut sled seemed like a big kickback risk to me. little bit cringey, but nice looking project
Not sure why you didn’t solve the mistake by simply beveling that edge so that the seam between drawer front and side panel would be perpendicular to the tangent of the curve? It would have also hidden the drawer hardware, but it would have eliminated the fragile knife edge of the side panel by giving you a 90 degree corner on both sides at the break in the curvature.
nice!
👍👍👍👍👍
Amazing craftsmanship. But it is like you threw it all out the window when you essentially painted it black. Over white oak. What a shame.
you’re nuts the grain pop is beautiful, especially in black
yeah look at the end of the video
he didn’t paint it black, it is a black finish
@@brandonrippeonphoto bullshit ,it looks terrible black. Stain and urethane would be beautiful. You dumbells. You know nothing about wood finishing
@brandonrippeonphoto I said essentially painted it black. I looks like shit. Dark black stain. Total shit. Urethane would have made that wood grain pop. Combined with a light stain first. You think that shit looks good? You must read in braille.
@brandonrippeonphoto your stoned.
Why not use the flush cutter all the way down at the curve.
I don’t think there’s a bit long enough for that…
How much do you charge for this?
For this specific piece, I don't have permission from the client to reveal the price, but if you are interested in a similar piece, I'd be happy to have a discussion. My email is listed on my channel page. Thanks a lot!
At last, I can't help, but hit that 'SUBSCRIBE' button ! I hope you will not disappoint me...😅
I appreciate that! :)