Yamaha KX88 Open Cover and Removing Keys (see more for WARNING)
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- Опубликовано: 21 окт 2024
- WARNING: The KX88 is very delicate inside, there is a good chance you may damage the key switches which are hard to find. I do not suggest that anyone actually perform this activity... and not perform this especially if you are not mechanically skilled. I recommend that you have your KX88 repaired by a factory trained technician.
This video shows how to open the main panel and remove and install keys on a 1980's Yamaha KX88 Master MIDI Keyboard. It opens similarly to a DX7 but it is more involved.
The video is very detailed and step-by-step so it is over 48 minutes long but you can skip to various sections as you desire (as shown below), but I suggest you watch the entire video at least once. You will see why this is best left to a factory trained technician.
The first part of the video is how to open up the KX88, the second part is how to remove and re-install the keys for servicing.
Start: 0:00
Logo: 0:01
Title: 0:16
Introduction: 0:23
Opening the KX88: 1:29
Remove/Install KX88 Keys: 6:44
Credits: 43:30
Bonus Footage: 43:41
End: 48:41
Wow! I can't believe the spring goes in that way! The opposite to the FS keybed used on the DX7, M1 etc. So dumb and just asking for trouble compared with having it slot in at the back of the keybed.
Thanks for the feedback. I think you revised your comment before I could reply. I do indeed have the sping in correctly, but I do have to develop my technique. The manual is just two photos and no clues on technique [grimace]. I agree, the DX7 is much eaiser and having that spring channel right next to the switch on the KX88 is as you said "asking for trouble". After I made this video I added the warning in the more section just because of that. I have never even touched a M1, let alone open one up. I now have the connector that I will put on the After Touch cable so the whole Keyboard can be completely removed from the chassis without desoldering. I will make a video on that - it is just a 1/8 inch (3.2 mm) in-line stereo plug and jack.
If you have any questions or requests, don't hesitate to ask.
I got my KX88 from Guitar Center. Their website on used equipment is collection from all their stores all over. Mine was shipped from their California store to my store here in New Hampshire. It was pristine and only $350 US Dollars + plus $20 shipping which was very low. When it arrived I was heart broken... it had been dropped on the right side, which cracked the end piece and that made the two white keys stick, and it was dented in the front rail under the keys about an octave lower causing 3 more keys to stick. Also, the top row of buttons didn't work. But no keys were damaged. These things are built like tanks. The manager said he would give me my money back as it would have to be serviced and resold. I asked if I could fix it myself and get a price break. He was great and gave me a very good deal by giving me some cash back. It took me two days to fix it and aside from some cracks on the right end piece, it is like new... only some very tiny superficial blemishes on the metal parts that I touched up with a black Sharpie marker. The buttons not working was a cold solder joint on a circuit board that opened up over time. The keys, action, velocity, after touch, buttons, sliders, LEDs, jacks, and MIDI are all now perfect. It is rare to find a KX88 with all the buttons so pristine, most have at least one damaged. I made a video on performing a Self Test on the KX88.
I should have watched the entire video before posting my original comment but a few minutes later I realized that the springs did indeed go in 'backwards' compared to the DX7! The DX7 way of doing it makes so much more sense. Maybe they had to do it that way to get more tension on the spring to account for the heavier weights.
The M1 and later Yamaha and Korg keyboards have the same design as the DX7 but they added a little plastic piece in the slot for less friction.
I'm surprised that Yamaha didn't put a connector on the aftertouch cable, or have the aftertouch board attached to the the keybed like the DX7 etc. If I ever do manage to get a KX88 putting a connector on will be one of the first things I do!
I do love the older keyboards where the case opens from the top though. Much easier to work on than everything afterwards where you have to go in from the bottom.
@@ispowart Been there done that... watch a video, comment, and then realize I spoke too soon.
Yes, the way the X series open are great. Pleanty of storage inside to store schematics and maintenance notes. I may scan everything I have gathered about my keyboards into .pdf and my videos and put them on a thumb drive inside as a nice "Easter Egg" for the next owner. I still have to increase the gain on the after touch amp, it's just a resistor change. Since that resistor has to go to a higher value, I just lift one lead of the resistor and solder in a new resistor to it to form a new higher value resistor. This way if I ever want to back out the modification, the original resistor is still there.
@@ispowart The action on the KX88 keys is superb quite actually - very much like a Yamaha Grand Piano. I know you Brits use "quite actually" a lot, do you get commission on it [smile]. Just kidding, I like to poke fun at you guys because you drive on the wrong side of the road [laugh]. But I can take it as much as I can dish it out.