Man, Id make sure Id have several belts on standby. I used to own that same grinder and anytime I did any type of heavy grinding/removals it would snap belts. But those HTC800's look like they are rockn and rolln for you. Thats a pretty serious prep job and great job! So much goes into a job like this behind the scenes that newcomers arent aware of..like how you figured out how to get all that dust removal from second floor, how to get power close enough, having a plan B when something doesnt go right or if your tooling choice didnt work out Great work on a tough project!
I just chiseled, demo hammered and used a floor sander with a real low grit to remove thinset from a bathroom and kitchen it took forever. I wish I knew this tool even existed, definitely the right and easy way.
That's an easy way to pick up thin set. Thankfully thin set is soft, so that's why the bits look new. When I retiled my rental, just 1100sqft of chipping old thinset up took a week by hand. I never thought to rent a grinder and do it. Lol
actually soft/abrasive material like thin set will wear out diamond tooling faster than anything. PCDs like he used, are very hard and do not wear fast. .
Looks very nice to me. I think it is finished well enough for any type tile job. New thinset is forgiving to some extent. So seeing the end results, I think you got it correct...
That's what great, I did 8000sqft of thick capet glue with a htc 550. I was there for 3 days, hopefully soon I'll get a monster like yours and then jobs are going to get a bit easier. Keep up the great work grentmen.
man, I wouldnt want to do 8000 sq ft of anything with a little htc550 lol. But 3 days actually isnt that bad for that little guy. If it was a full grind and polish you would have been there for 2-3 weeks
Great job as always. Very fond memories of Honesdale. Would go there as a kid…40 + years ago 😫. I don’t believe there was a building there that large back then?
Looks like those machines really made that job manageable. My garage has a similar, but different problem. A previous owner decided they didn't like the look of the control joints and had a contractor cover them with what I assume is concrete floor resurfacing mix. It looks like concrete, but with vanishingly fine aggregate. They feathered the area around the "patches" to make them blend in, but you can tell the floor is slightly higher where the joints are. Of course what happened is the thin coat of resurfacer cracked over all the joints. It's coming up in small chunks now and I can see some sort of plastic that was laid over the joints probably to keep the layer thin to avoid problems with the resurfacer shrinking where it would have been thickest in the joints. I wanted to put an epoxy or urethane coating on the floor, but I need to deal with this problem first. Right now there is just a set of cracks in the shape of a + on my floor. Do you think my best option is to rent a smaller floor grinder to grind down those areas? Maybe I could try to break the resurfacer up with a hammer where I can first to make the grinding process faster. Once ground down with the plastic strips removed I assume the original control joints are under there in good condition, but regardless I need to restore the joints to the way they were installed to prevent any coating from cracking and possibly coming up at the edges of the cracks. What do you think? It's a 20x20' garage and the control joints form a cross splitting the slab into 4 sections. The slab is in great condition otherwise. I would like to make it as flat as possible. Thanks.
If you reach out to me, I can get in touch with you tomorrow and we can discuss what you can do for your floor. Email me jason@concretefloorsolutions.com
How bad was that original tile job? It looks like the tiles must have just popped right up when they removed it without the thin set actually bonding that well to the tile.
PCDs are awesome 👌. The silica dust does suck though, I like to use a soft squeegee, I know they're meant for wet flooring but it helps with pushing the dust into a pile and pick it up later. It creates less dust. Awesome work guys, keep it up. As always your videos make it look easier than it actually is, everything about the concrete grinding is noisy and long hours. 😀
Wow! That worked great. I had to grind off about 3/4" of concrete in my entryway because of a bump in the slab when I installed porcelain tiles. Even with a large fan sucking air out through the front door, my house still has concrete dust in the nooks and crannies of every room.
I have a home that has an overlay of concrete over existing slab. The overlay was then stamped. Its too rough and in a few spots its cracking. Im assuming we would need to do this method to get rid of the heavy stamp and ridges to lay new floor? Some other issues is the kirchen cabinets will need to.be worked around and the toilets in bathroom will.need to be removed. Not to mention covering everything
Wow that worked great man. What do you charge for a service like this? We install floors and often use a Mikita chipping hammer for stuff like this. Way more dusty and probably takes 10x longer
I can't remember which video it is, but you have a 'knee cart' or 'knee creeper' you talked about and use frequently. Do you have more information on that? (brand, where to buy, etc). Thank You.
The grinder worked better than I would have expected it to, but I'm curious why topping the well bonded mortar with a SLU and encapsulating it want an option?
I guess the question is, how much does it cost to put down minimum 3/8 inch self leveling topping over 27,000 ft.², then adding thin set, then adding tile? Compared to removing thin set, applying thinset placing tile? Is that much self leveling mortar even available in this market? I don't know I'm just asking.
@@ConcreteFloorSolutions Agilia is self leveling and can be placed with a concrete pump...so yes, that much is available, what I don't know is how much it costs... I was a huge fan of the Canadian TV program Holmes on Homes and he used Agilia in a few of his basement slab jobs and if I remember what he said, Agilia costs more than standard concrete mixes but since it's self-leveling, you save money on not needing to smooth and finish trowel it so the final cost per volume ends up about the same...
@@ConcreteFloorSolutions Self-leveler is readily available in most parts of the country. There are some labor and polymer shortages but with a week or so head’s up you should not run into any issues. You are going to want to use a No Prep leveler which has shrinkage control properties so it will lay flat and not curl or peak. A solid clean surface is all that is needed for a leveler to perform. Vacuum the surface and prime then pour. Figuring cost is not complicated but there are variables that I don’t know. If you have water very near and you can mix close to where you are pouring you can move quickly with just 4 guys. Man 1 mixes, man 2 helps mix, man 3 moves the leveler barrels to the wet edge, man 4 dumps and spreads. 4 guys can break 120 bags/hr which is 3,600 ft per hour @ 3/8” thick. If your guys are tired or things just don’t go right, safe to assume 45 man hours. Material is 735 bags of leveler @ $26ea or $19,110. Might be cheaper than all of the grinding if you factor labor and clean-up. Your 1 killer will be clearances for doorways, step height, appliances etc.
We do have a couple sets of those on the trailer already. I really enjoyed using the plates with the PCD is mounted permanently on them, sometimes the tools pop off and these don't.
@Concrete Floor Solutions Inc. that makes sense, nice job. I was jealous when I saw a size job like that. Also how far can you run your power out without major loss from the generator, talking length in feet.
Apparently on the outside perimeter. They had a whole bunch of offices framed out before we even got our equipment off the site. They were way behind schedule after attempting to remove it themselves. They originally removed 2000 ft.² and it took them all week. We did 27,000 ft.² in the same amount of time
taboo question mate. Bidding jobs you must take in account for many things, and it requires years of successes and failures to achieve a good system for proper bidding; not many will reveal their hand. You can assume $.50 - $1.00 a SqFt.; but then again you will be assuming.
Great work! I have about 300 sq ft to do so this might not be completely applicable but still fun to watch. Has anyone told you that you sound like Jon Hamm?
Awesome work , I have learned a lot from your guys and I have a question, A self leveling concrete (compound) could be a solution rather than grind the floor ?
Could be a solution, yes, but you still need to prep the floor, add a leveler and still put a floor on top of that. It will probably cost more than just grinding it off. Plus your floor elevation will now be approximately 3/4" inch higher than removing it
I have a 60 sf area (15' x 4') with a disastrous attempt to use self-leveling compound. It varies from 1/8" to 1/4" thick. I'd like to remove it back to the sub-flooring. Any ideas how to get this done? Thanks.
I'm not a contractor but I'd say the best way to remove tile from a wood sub-floor is a tile/concrete saw to divide the space into manageable areas, pry up each area, sand the now exposed sub-floor smooth and level, reinforce with new plywood to replace the lost wood thickness and lay whatever new flooring you've chosen... Unless it's a concrete building (walls and roof) in that case, fire...LOTS of fire to remove the wood sub-floor making removal of the now detached tile and mortar easy......but that's just my Inner Pyromaniac speaking... 😄😁😆😅😂🤣
How much smoother for a new epoxy floor ? I have been experimenting with epoxy on all kinds of materials from foam, concrete, OSB, MDF , and tile. Epoxy seems quite thick enough to cover small imperfections
You would need to fill all the spalls and cracks prior to putting epoxy down. Unless you don't mind it reflecting through. The grinding performed in this video was only to provide a smooth surface for thinset and tile.
@@ConcreteFloorSolutions thank you. I have an existing cheap epoxy on my garage floor and will be replacing it with a better product and was curious on how to remove the existing epoxy in the corners. it seems that even a hand grinder wouldnt get all the way in the corner just because its round.
@@devingallagher4454 I would definitely use a hand grinder, as long as you can get 3/8 of an inch from the edges you are good. Here is a link to the popular kits we sell on our website:concretefloorsolutions.com/product/500-sq-ft-complete-epoxy-flake-floor-kit/
Did you quote the job accurately? In other words did you guys make money? I would love to see a follow-up video of the new flooring that was installed. Guys did a quality job!!
We did well, this jobsite is 2 hours away from us so a follow up probably won’t happen, unless we are called for the rest of the building. There is another 50,000 ft.² and probably needs to be done at some point.
@@ConcreteFloorSolutions The best thing is the contractor that hired you will be a future reference. At some point someone he knows will ask him if he can recommend a floor guy and I expect your name will come up. Great work
Yes, wear respirators. I've worked with ceramic tiles and thin set for many years and there is warnings on the bags indicating that there are cancer causing agents within the compound.
probably sort of a relief to just get called in for an occasional glue removal job instead of having to go over the whole place a million times for a full grind/polish
Holy Moly!!! But it just goes to show you that the right equipment makes all the difference! Great work, folks!
Cool commentary and example of a large-scale job and what challenges come with that. Great video guys!
Someone who never tried removing thinset will not be able to appreciate the awesomeness of this.
exactly,
Being halfway through a job and finding this is unbelievable. I’m hiring one tomorrow
That's a really great crew working together like a hand and glove. First class work from top notch pros
Thanks for watching.
Great commentary as someone also said. I need to get resin off my floor and found this very helpful. Thanks for posting.
The average person, myself included, has no concept of the weight of that thinset sitting there. A huge eye opener this was! Very informative video!!
Man, Id make sure Id have several belts on standby. I used to own that same grinder and anytime I did any type of heavy grinding/removals it would snap belts.
But those HTC800's look like they are rockn and rolln for you. Thats a pretty serious prep job and great job!
So much goes into a job like this behind the scenes that newcomers arent aware of..like how you figured out how to get all that dust removal from second floor, how to get power close enough, having a plan B when something doesnt go right or if your tooling choice didnt work out
Great work on a tough project!
Excellent work. Am. A. Floor installer. Lookin. To. Get. Into. The. Demo. Grind. And. Floor. Prep business great. Work. You. Guys did
If you have any questions during start up, feel free to reach out. jason@concretefloorsolutions.com
I just chiseled, demo hammered and used a floor sander with a real low grit to remove thinset from a bathroom and kitchen it took forever. I wish I knew this tool even existed, definitely the right and easy way.
You probably wouldn't be able to get it in the doorway... 🙄😅
Too big for home jobs. I'm using a grinder also. I'm on day 8 of 350sq feet. It's the worst
That's an easy way to pick up thin set. Thankfully thin set is soft, so that's why the bits look new. When I retiled my rental, just 1100sqft of chipping old thinset up took a week by hand. I never thought to rent a grinder and do it. Lol
actually soft/abrasive material like thin set will wear out diamond tooling faster than anything. PCDs like he used, are very hard and do not wear fast. .
I grinded a whole warehouse prob about the same Sq footage and it's still quite a job! Respect guys! Well done!
Oh side note we didn't have the vacuum system! Lol what a mess!
Looks very nice to me. I think it is finished well enough for any type tile job. New thinset is forgiving to some extent. So seeing the end results, I think you got it correct...
That's what great, I did 8000sqft of thick capet glue with a htc 550. I was there for 3 days, hopefully soon I'll get a monster like yours and then jobs are going to get a bit easier. Keep up the great work grentmen.
man, I wouldnt want to do 8000 sq ft of anything with a little htc550 lol. But 3 days actually isnt that bad for that little guy. If it was a full grind and polish you would have been there for 2-3 weeks
Nice job!
Good job guys
Great job as always. Very fond memories of Honesdale. Would go there as a kid…40 + years ago 😫.
I don’t believe there was a building there that large back then?
Amazing! Nice work!
Great informative video, we look forward to sharing some of our techniques in the future as well
True professional’s 😎
Very interesting to big jobs done, with the right equipment. Great jobs guys. Just subbed.
Tremendous videos !! Incredibly interesting ! 👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
Excellent job. Helps to have the correct tools.
I used to do concrete polishing...damn hard job.
I used to do it too very tedious and time-consuming
Looks like those machines really made that job manageable.
My garage has a similar, but different problem. A previous owner decided they didn't like the look of the control joints and had a contractor cover them with what I assume is concrete floor resurfacing mix. It looks like concrete, but with vanishingly fine aggregate. They feathered the area around the "patches" to make them blend in, but you can tell the floor is slightly higher where the joints are.
Of course what happened is the thin coat of resurfacer cracked over all the joints. It's coming up in small chunks now and I can see some sort of plastic that was laid over the joints probably to keep the layer thin to avoid problems with the resurfacer shrinking where it would have been thickest in the joints.
I wanted to put an epoxy or urethane coating on the floor, but I need to deal with this problem first. Right now there is just a set of cracks in the shape of a + on my floor. Do you think my best option is to rent a smaller floor grinder to grind down those areas? Maybe I could try to break the resurfacer up with a hammer where I can first to make the grinding process faster. Once ground down with the plastic strips removed I assume the original control joints are under there in good condition, but regardless I need to restore the joints to the way they were installed to prevent any coating from cracking and possibly coming up at the edges of the cracks.
What do you think? It's a 20x20' garage and the control joints form a cross splitting the slab into 4 sections. The slab is in great condition otherwise. I would like to make it as flat as possible.
Thanks.
If you reach out to me, I can get in touch with you tomorrow and we can discuss what you can do for your floor. Email me jason@concretefloorsolutions.com
Best video yet!
What do you guys dispose of the dust?
dumpster, it is just ground concrete dust.
How bad was that original tile job? It looks like the tiles must have just popped right up when they removed it without the thin set actually bonding that well to the tile.
The tile was actually in great shape. Apparently it took a lot to get the tile off but the thinset did not come up at all.
When you can’t estimate your way out of a job. Kidding aside, Thanks for taking the time to share this and hope you got a nice check.
PCDs are awesome 👌. The silica dust does suck though, I like to use a soft squeegee, I know they're meant for wet flooring but it helps with pushing the dust into a pile and pick it up later. It creates less dust. Awesome work guys, keep it up. As always your videos make it look easier than it actually is, everything about the concrete grinding is noisy and long hours. 😀
Price ????
Love your work boys.
Professional
Organised
Clean
Tidy
Smart
Thank you for watching
Phenomenal job!
Who popped up the old tile? That also had to be quite a job, although it didnt seem to have a very good bond with the thin set.
I don't know who, but they had a ride on floor scraper and it was quite a project
Credit to yous sir dealing with that dust .
I have no idea why I enjoy watching these videos lol but I do
awsome work!
great video, what would be the cost per SF to do this? Thanks
Good stuff
Wow! That worked great.
I had to grind off about 3/4" of concrete in my entryway because of a bump in the slab when I installed porcelain tiles.
Even with a large fan sucking air out through the front door, my house still has concrete dust in the nooks and crannies of every room.
Thats not good
Wow just wow👍🏻👍🏻🏁🏁
Wow! you guys are awesome I wish i could be in you team I know this is not easy event if you have the beast grinding machine ! Cheers !
I have a home that has an overlay of concrete over existing slab. The overlay was then stamped. Its too rough and in a few spots its cracking. Im assuming we would need to do this method to get rid of the heavy stamp and ridges to lay new floor? Some other issues is the kirchen cabinets will need to.be worked around and the toilets in bathroom will.need to be removed. Not to mention covering everything
Impressive dust extraction as you can't see any floating in the air where the sunlight is shining through.
We have gone to great lengths to create a dustless system.
@@ConcreteFloorSolutions well hats off to you for it. I'm nothing to do with that industry, but really enjoyed watching the video 👍
how much this machine? And where are we can purshase ?
What's the grinder called? What're the brand and model?
HTC-800 CLASSIC.
😮😮😮wow great job!! How much did you charge?
Get the floor wet day before and you should most 40% faster. Greta work by the way...
how much did you charge for that if you don't mind me asking. roughly.
Wow that worked great man. What do you charge for a service like this? We install floors and often use a Mikita chipping hammer for stuff like this. Way more dusty and probably takes 10x longer
$2 sq ft
How much do charge to take thinset off
How many blades did you go through?
How much a sq.f something like this work is charged ?
PCD’s are awesome! How many set of diamonds did you go through?
We only use 10% of the first set, we used orange diamonds very hard compound.
How did you dispose of 20k lbs of thin set dust/ debris
@@MFCSTUDIOS dumpster outside
I can't remember which video it is, but you have a 'knee cart' or 'knee creeper' you talked about and use frequently. Do you have more information on that? (brand, where to buy, etc). Thank You.
This?
concretefloorsolutions.com/product/racatac-with-chest-support-01rac3cs/
Looks great. Do you have a preference between the large plate PCDs vs the T-Rex segments?
I have tried both, I would definitely say the wolf series from Sase is hands down my favorite. 11" plates
The grinder worked better than I would have expected it to, but I'm curious why topping the well bonded mortar with a SLU and encapsulating it want an option?
I guess the question is, how much does it cost to put down minimum 3/8 inch self leveling topping over 27,000 ft.², then adding thin set, then adding tile?
Compared to removing thin set, applying thinset placing tile?
Is that much self leveling mortar even available in this market? I don't know I'm just asking.
@@ConcreteFloorSolutions Agilia is self leveling and can be placed with a concrete pump...so yes, that much is available, what I don't know is how much it costs...
I was a huge fan of the Canadian TV program Holmes on Homes and he used Agilia in a few of his basement slab jobs and if I remember what he said, Agilia costs more than standard concrete mixes but since it's self-leveling, you save money on not needing to smooth and finish trowel it so the final cost per volume ends up about the same...
@@ConcreteFloorSolutions Self-leveler is readily available in most parts of the country. There are some labor and polymer shortages but with a week or so head’s up you should not run into any issues. You are going to want to use a No Prep leveler which has shrinkage control properties so it will lay flat and not curl or peak. A solid clean surface is all that is needed for a leveler to perform. Vacuum the surface and prime then pour. Figuring cost is not complicated but there are variables that I don’t know. If you have water very near and you can mix close to where you are pouring you can move quickly with just 4 guys. Man 1 mixes, man 2 helps mix, man 3 moves the leveler barrels to the wet edge, man 4 dumps and spreads. 4 guys can break 120 bags/hr which is 3,600 ft per hour @ 3/8” thick. If your guys are tired or things just don’t go right, safe to assume 45 man hours. Material is 735 bags of leveler @ $26ea or $19,110. Might be cheaper than all of the grinding if you factor labor and clean-up. Your 1 killer will be clearances for doorways, step height, appliances etc.
What vacuum is that
Blastrac 6-54, 480 v 3 phase
I run husqvarna units but they have the htc plates as well look into the t-rex with backer diamonds those are really nice as well they are from htc
We do have a couple sets of those on the trailer already. I really enjoyed using the plates with the PCD is mounted permanently on them, sometimes the tools pop off and these don't.
@Concrete Floor Solutions Inc. that makes sense, nice job. I was jealous when I saw a size job like that. Also how far can you run your power out without major loss from the generator, talking length in feet.
@@tylerdavis4875 The furthest we have ever run is 300 feet and I never had a problem.
How do you transport tons of dust and dump it?
Dumpsters the owner takes cafe of
They going to save the drywall ???
Apparently on the outside perimeter. They had a whole bunch of offices framed out before we even got our equipment off the site.
They were way behind schedule after attempting to remove it themselves.
They originally removed 2000 ft.² and it took them all week. We did 27,000 ft.² in the same amount of time
Nice work what would you charge for that job?
What do you regularly charge per square foot for that grinding?
taboo question mate. Bidding jobs you must take in account for many things, and it requires years of successes and failures to achieve a good system for proper bidding; not many will reveal their hand. You can assume $.50 - $1.00 a SqFt.; but then again you will be assuming.
@@mindseyeproductions8798 that would be the range I’d be thinking to.
What was the cost of your Scarifying blades
Great work! I have about 300 sq ft to do so this might not be completely applicable but still fun to watch. Has anyone told you that you sound like Jon Hamm?
Never heard that before.
I will have to listen closely next time.
Got a good way for a smaller area 800sqft just as thick or thicker
cost per square feet ??
Water helps soften stuck thinset and keeps dust down. Thats if your using hand scrapers.
Awesome work , I have learned a lot from your guys and I have a question, A self leveling concrete (compound) could be a solution rather than grind the floor ?
Could be a solution, yes, but you still need to prep the floor, add a leveler and still put a floor on top of that. It will probably cost more than just grinding it off. Plus your floor elevation will now be approximately 3/4" inch higher than removing it
@@ConcreteFloorSolutions I agree , thank you for quick reply 🙏
I would have just put down a tough underlay for the carpet padding and call it good. How much was this job?
Have you guys made a video on removing oil stains from concrete? If not can you please make one?
If you don't grind the thinset, can you put the self leveling concrete on top of the thinset??
Yes , that is deffinetly possible, more expensive..
Gah dam. That thing is a beast
I have a 60 sf area (15' x 4') with a disastrous attempt to use self-leveling compound. It varies from 1/8" to 1/4" thick. I'd like to remove it back to the sub-flooring. Any ideas how to get this done? Thanks.
Either a grinder or heavy duty floor scraper. You would need to check with your local rental company and see what is available.
What is your process for low spots? Our machines are superabrasive brand, with a variety of sizes.
The floating heads on our grinder go into the low spots.
Best way to get it off of wood subflooring?
No idea. We only deal with Concrete floors underneath.
I'm not a contractor but I'd say the best way to remove tile from a wood sub-floor is a tile/concrete saw to divide the space into manageable areas, pry up each area, sand the now exposed sub-floor smooth and level, reinforce with new plywood to replace the lost wood thickness and lay whatever new flooring you've chosen...
Unless it's a concrete building (walls and roof) in that case, fire...LOTS of fire to remove the wood sub-floor making removal of the now detached tile and mortar easy......but that's just my Inner Pyromaniac speaking...
😄😁😆😅😂🤣
@@HappilyHomicidalHooligan yeah, I'm figuring the subfloor will come up. Probably the easiest option.
How much smoother for a new epoxy floor ?
I have been experimenting with epoxy on all kinds of materials from foam, concrete, OSB, MDF , and tile.
Epoxy seems quite thick enough to cover small imperfections
You would need to fill all the spalls and cracks prior to putting epoxy down. Unless you don't mind it reflecting through.
The grinding performed in this video was only to provide a smooth surface for thinset and tile.
@@ConcreteFloorSolutions how would you fill the swirl cutting marks in concrete?
Do they make a rider grinder?
Yes, almost every manufacturer does, normally $100k and up.
How do you guys remove the existing epoxy/thinset in the corners when prepping for epoxy?
You would need to use either chipping guns or hand grinders. That was not part of our contract so we did not do it.
@@ConcreteFloorSolutions thank you. I have an existing cheap epoxy on my garage floor and will be replacing it with a better product and was curious on how to remove the existing epoxy in the corners. it seems that even a hand grinder wouldnt get all the way in the corner just because its round.
@@devingallagher4454 I would definitely use a hand grinder, as long as you can get 3/8 of an inch from the edges you are good. Here is a link to the popular kits we sell on our website:concretefloorsolutions.com/product/500-sq-ft-complete-epoxy-flake-floor-kit/
@@ConcreteFloorSolutions thank you so much for your knowledge
Did you quote the job accurately? In other words did you guys make money? I would love to see a follow-up video of the new flooring that was installed. Guys did a quality job!!
We did well, this jobsite is 2 hours away from us so a follow up probably won’t happen, unless we are called for the rest of the building. There is another 50,000 ft.² and probably needs to be done at some point.
@@ConcreteFloorSolutions The best thing is the contractor that hired you will be a future reference. At some point someone he knows will ask him if he can recommend a floor guy and I expect your name will come up. Great work
But how do you remove thin thickset?
We’ve all done a bathroom or kitchen where we needed one of these machines 😂
How much are these to rent?
I couldn't tell you, I have never rented any grinders. We have always owned ours.
What's a sqft of grinding cost the customer?
very nice. we runbterrco 3100 for any heavy removal. then the planetary to smooth out.
How much to charge for tinset removal only?
That JOB is where you separate “ The wanna BE from the Professionals. 😂
Yes, wear respirators. I've worked with ceramic tiles and thin set for many years and there is warnings on the bags indicating that there are cancer causing agents within the compound.
I mean we saw the thin set removal I can’t imagine the mess and time it took to remove all that tile holy cow
I wasn't there for that part, but I heard it was quite a challenge.
They used a 2" or 3" wide chisel tip on a ride on floor machine.
Close to 13,000 lbs of thin set on 20k SF based on 80SF coverage per bag
We removed 100 dust bins full of dust from the floor, I was guessing 200 lbs per load +/- 20,000 lbs. it was VERY heavy for most of it.
Video Title: "The Easy Way"
Actual Video: "This is not gonna be easy"
LOL
I watched the entire video…..not sure why, but I did.
Does anyone know I good reliable concrete company in the dallas area to redo floors?
Be cheaper just to lay some self leveling compound over the top of it, yes its some extra weight but its not going to collapse the floor.
Over 27,000 ft.²?
The cost of those grinding disks has got to be outrageous. Bet you ARE glad that you didn't go through many of them.
When I went to remove the tile from my foyer I found they had used portland cement instead of thinset. Hadbto jackhammer it out.
probably sort of a relief to just get called in for an occasional glue removal job instead of having to go over the whole place a million times for a full grind/polish
I agree 100%
I know it’s expensive
but you guys earn every nickel
It surely is not easy work. Thank you for recognizing that.
“The easy way”, first thing you say, “this is not going to be easy” 😂
shot blasting, like for terrazzo floors might work...I would have just primed it and floor leveled it...
What does that cost per sq ft?
All that work and expense for indoor outdoor carpeting ? 😳 Madness !
27,000 square feet of tile? I shudder to think of that price tag!
This is what I use to do for a living
that awesome .. can you do my 200 sq. ft. kitchen?