== 🕐 Time Stamps - Cut to the action 🕕 == 01:30 - Turning off individual circuit breakers 03:00 - Locking off the isolator 03:16 - KEEP HOLD OF THE KEY 05:22 - Proving your test equipment on a proving unit 06:15 - Exposing the incoming supply cable terminations] 07:21 - Testing between neutral and L1, L2 and L3 08:02 - Testing between the Earthing conductor and neutral 08:45 - Testing between the Earthing conductor and L1, L2 and L3 09:34 - Testing between L1 and L2, L1 and L3 and L2 and L3 10:15 - Reprove our voltage indicator on our proving unit
Brilliant video! Really informative. I have been working as an Electrical Improver for the past 14 months on a commercial site after a career change at the age of 40. Even though I won't be doing this sort of work on distribution boards until I'm a qualified electrician, this video has given me the knowledge to safely isolate a supply. Even though I'm only an improver at the moment, I want to be more than just a guy who passes over the tools to electricians and keeps the area tidy. I want to actually know what's going on during this task. Having this knowledge is vital to me so many thanks.
Not an improver then , your a mate Improver is someone who is working as an electrician near enough but just isn’t finished his qualifications A mate passes tools
My AM2 didn't have a remote isolator so had to loto the main switch. I always test. CPC to L1-L2-L3 LOAD SIDE CPC to NEUTRAL NEUTRAL to L1-L2-L3 LOAD and SUPPLY side. If the supply side is still live this also re-proves the voltage indicator as we go. Then L1 to L2, L1 to L3, L2 to L3 load side Re-prove. Worth mentioning, everytime you put the voltage indicator down RE-CHECK and RE-PROVE. My assessor said that showed great care and yes at that moment of puttingit down it could have broke.
On dead testing I would go to CPC then neutral 1st. Then CPC to L1 L2 L3 also shake the leads with probes in the proving unit. And yes check from L1 to L2 and L3 and all the rest.
Great video, with the am2 I believe we have to do 3 other safe isolation tests for the fault finding sections, a lighting circuit a motor circuit and distribution board. Are the 2 circuits locked off individually and checked at the end of circuit and then the distribution board the same as this safe isolation in the video??? Thanks
Excellent video as always! That board really is really a bit messy inside. But for the demonstration of proofing if the board is dead it is sufficient. I don't know the regulations in the UK for this, but some things which catched my eye: -grey used as neutral, which is normally L3 in a three-phase system. I don't count in the incoming wires of the supply of the board, black was the neutral in the old UK wiring afaik, and the red, yellow and blue indicate that this is an older colour code. In Germany this would be correct btw., in the old german colour code grey was used as neutral or PEN. -all lines are of the same colour, this is only permitted here if you use single conductors and not cables. The different colours make it easier to get the right direction of the rotating field in a three-phase system. The direction is clockwise, or right. Otherwise this can have massive consequences, because electric motors are rotating in the wrong direction. In case of a three-phase table saw the nut which holds the blade could become loose and fly arround. Quite undesirable. Here almost every distribution board is three-phase, even in residentials. It spares much installation material. For example, kitchen cookers and ovens are connected three-phase in a modern installation. They're normally connected with 5G2.5mm² NYM-J, and fused with a 3x B16 A MCB. That are ~11 kW. But the cookers are not 400V appliances, they are diverted equally on the 3 phases. Normally a large and a small cooking plate on one phase, the baking oven is connected to L3. So you can also use these appliances on a single phase system, but you'll have to install copper bridges between the terminals for the three line conductors. And for locking out: Use always your own lock and not one for example distributed by the customer! You never know who else has a key for that lock.
I found out recently that 3 phase to homes is being phased in in some areas - pardon the pun ! I've thought about how I'd split my cooker to run off my 3ph generator. I think left hobs L1, right hobs L2 and ovens/grills L3. BUT as my gen is only 2.2kW per phase, I'd leave the cooker on one phase, kettle on another phase and everything else on the third phase. As for the locked switch - just remove the 4 screws holding the front of the switch on, lift off the cover red knob & lock and operate the switch from inside - easy !
In the 2391 exam there is an extra point missing here for safe isolation which is to seek permission from responsible person before isolation. This is just incase someone is on a ventilator or life support in one of the bedrooms.
Hi gaz I’m currently completing my testing section for my nvq when I get evidence for safe isolation will it still be okay if I use the main incoming tails to prove indicator is working As not all installations have a linked switch between meter and board
People often laugh about level of testing and proving But in my 35 years as refrigeration engineer have had both Incoming isolator to panel not disconnecting And tester failure DURING USE So do it correctly and always I've said to apprentices repetition breeds habit
my lecture always told me to prove it is live using all 10 stages before turning off the power so that you know that you have personally turnt of the power
Great question... some covers cannot be removed with a locking device in place so take each case on its own merits. Always isolated before removing any cover and restrict access to the area etc. Gaz 👍
Not recommended. Essentially the value given on a digital multimeter is a calculated RMS value worked out by the internal electronics of the meter. They can & have given errors. There is also the possibility of selecting the incorrect range i.e D.C instead of A.C (I've seen it happen!) They also have internal fuses which may be blown/ruptured. With proper voltage/potential indicators the lights etc on them are driven directly from the source of supply. There are no ranges to select or get incorrect. Couple this with a proper proving unit or 'known source of supply' you are properly indicating to yourself that the supply is dead. It's the last step before you potentially come into contact with electricity. I do it without fail every time. I like life!!
Maybe should have replayed it then Doh, didn't think you would miss that super Gaz. Just a question i was taught to go between earth and neutral first so you going between the least dangerous conductors what's your thoughts on this?
Can I use a simple multimeter for taking these measurements to see if the circuit is live? Also, what kind of measurement equipment did you use for this video? Thanks
== 🕐 Time Stamps - Cut to the action 🕕 ==
01:30 - Turning off individual circuit breakers
03:00 - Locking off the isolator
03:16 - KEEP HOLD OF THE KEY
05:22 - Proving your test equipment on a proving unit
06:15 - Exposing the incoming supply cable terminations]
07:21 - Testing between neutral and L1, L2 and L3
08:02 - Testing between the Earthing conductor and neutral
08:45 - Testing between the Earthing conductor and L1, L2 and L3
09:34 - Testing between L1 and L2, L1 and L3 and L2 and L3
10:15 - Reprove our voltage indicator on our proving unit
Any additional 3 phase testing would be appreciated as I approach my am2s in the coming months.
Thanks for the great content as always.
Brilliant video! Really informative.
I have been working as an Electrical Improver for the past 14 months on a commercial site after a career change at the age of 40. Even though I won't be doing this sort of work on distribution boards until I'm a qualified electrician, this video has given me the knowledge to safely isolate a supply. Even though I'm only an improver at the moment, I want to be more than just a guy who passes over the tools to electricians and keeps the area tidy. I want to actually know what's going on during this task. Having this knowledge is vital to me so many thanks.
Lee, thanks for the detailed positive feedback and all the best 👍. Gaz
Not an improver then , your a mate
Improver is someone who is working as an electrician near enough but just isn’t finished his qualifications
A mate passes tools
if only there were videos like this for the Scottish FICA assessment. good work.
Thanks for the kind words of support 🦾👍
My AM2 didn't have a remote isolator so had to loto the main switch.
I always test.
CPC to L1-L2-L3 LOAD SIDE
CPC to NEUTRAL
NEUTRAL to L1-L2-L3 LOAD and SUPPLY side. If the supply side is still live this also re-proves the voltage indicator as we go.
Then
L1 to L2, L1 to L3, L2 to L3 load side
Re-prove.
Worth mentioning, everytime you put the voltage indicator down RE-CHECK and RE-PROVE. My assessor said that showed great care and yes at that moment of puttingit down it could have broke.
Bro your a life saver
Everyone working towards there gold card is great-full
i failed mine for using 1.5mm, spec said use 1.0mm , apparently thats enough to fail the entire section, no matter how much i argued otherwise lol
Superb video for any electrical bod. Either learning or CPD. Especially Safe for September.
Thanks 👍🏻
Great video Gaz
Hi GSH, thank you for all of your videos. I have learn more from your videos then Able Skills training centre.
Thanks for the support 👍
Thanks for the upload, good content !
Thanks 👍
Nice one Gaz, really appreciated, very informative. 👍
Excellent video, thanks Gaz
Brill vid! Currently studying for my unit 5! Wish me luck haha
All the best Ben and thanks for commenting and watching 👍🏻
Wow brilliant clear
great video! thanks for uploading,
Thanks for the great comment 👍
On dead testing I would go to CPC then neutral 1st. Then CPC to L1 L2 L3 also shake the leads with probes in the proving unit. And yes check from L1 to L2 and L3 and all the rest.
Great video,
with the am2 I believe we have to do 3 other safe isolation tests for the fault finding sections, a lighting circuit a motor circuit and distribution board. Are the 2 circuits locked off individually and checked at the end of circuit and then the distribution board the same as this safe isolation in the video??? Thanks
Hi thanks for your detailed message. Gaz
Very helpful!
👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻 Thank you Gaz.
Fab video appreciated 👍
well said brother thanks
Excellent video as always!
That board really is really a bit messy inside. But for the demonstration of proofing if the board is dead it is sufficient. I don't know the regulations in the UK for this, but some things which catched my eye:
-grey used as neutral, which is normally L3 in a three-phase system. I don't count in the incoming wires of the supply of the board, black was the neutral in the old UK wiring afaik, and the red, yellow and blue indicate that this is an older colour code. In Germany this would be correct btw., in the old german colour code grey was used as neutral or PEN.
-all lines are of the same colour, this is only permitted here if you use single conductors and not cables. The different colours make it easier to get the right direction of the rotating field in a three-phase system. The direction is clockwise, or right. Otherwise this can have massive consequences, because electric motors are rotating in the wrong direction. In case of a three-phase table saw the nut which holds the blade could become loose and fly arround. Quite undesirable.
Here almost every distribution board is three-phase, even in residentials. It spares much installation material. For example, kitchen cookers and ovens are connected three-phase in a modern installation. They're normally connected with 5G2.5mm² NYM-J, and fused with a 3x B16 A MCB. That are ~11 kW. But the cookers are not 400V appliances, they are diverted equally on the 3 phases. Normally a large and a small cooking plate on one phase, the baking oven is connected to L3. So you can also use these appliances on a single phase system, but you'll have to install copper bridges between the terminals for the three line conductors.
And for locking out: Use always your own lock and not one for example distributed by the customer! You never know who else has a key for that lock.
I found out recently that 3 phase to homes is being phased in in some areas - pardon the pun !
I've thought about how I'd split my cooker to run off my 3ph generator. I think left hobs L1, right hobs L2 and ovens/grills L3. BUT as my gen is only 2.2kW per phase, I'd leave the cooker on one phase, kettle on another phase and everything else on the third phase.
As for the locked switch - just remove the 4 screws holding the front of the switch on, lift off the cover red knob & lock and operate the switch from inside - easy !
In the 2391 exam there is an extra point missing here for safe isolation which is to seek permission from responsible person before isolation. This is just incase someone is on a ventilator or life support in one of the bedrooms.
😂😂😂
This is correct you need to ask for permission
@@lukasbarnes clearly haven’t done you’re am2s you need to ask for permission
It should be on an UPS.
Our college teaches us to check the breakers aswell after the 10 step check
Great practice 👍🏻
Cheers mate
The fluke t130 has a built in self test function, is this acceptable in place of the proving unit?
Ask them on the day?
GooD VideO !!!!!👍👍👍👍👍👍
Thank you 🙏🙏
Is the recommended method of isoating an individual circuit feed through a contactor; to remove from the contactor the actuator conductors and test?
You started the 10 points of testing with neutral to phase because it was safest but I thought cpc was safest??
Hi gaz I’m currently completing my testing section for my nvq when I get evidence for safe isolation will it still be okay if I use the main incoming tails to prove indicator is working
As not all installations have a linked switch between meter and board
Prep course I just did only said to isolate DB at switch, I.e. the incoming supply side of switch would still be live, surely this can't be correct?
Does the other end of the prob become live if one is put on a live conductor? Didnt think that would be the case
Thank you
Is there no need to test the metallic board before touching it with a volt stick?
People often laugh about level of testing and proving
But in my 35 years as refrigeration engineer have had both
Incoming isolator to panel not disconnecting
And tester failure DURING USE
So do it correctly and always
I've said to apprentices repetition breeds habit
What have you done with Joe?
His alarm didn’t wake him up 🤣. The late Joe Robinson...
witch one meter tail main isolator with enclosure 100A switch is best to use home
8:45 About to test between E and L1,L2 and L3. Why - having just proved continuity between E & N ? That means you've already done those 3 tests.
The remote isolator has no labelling, identifying what it isolates.
my lecture always told me to prove it is live using all 10 stages before turning off the power so that you know that you have personally turnt of the power
Why would you need 10 steps to prove live? Just stick your voltmeter on L1, L2, L3.
If you're locking of the actual main switch at DB and not a separate isolator, Do you lock of main switch before removing the cover???
Great question... some covers cannot be removed with a locking device in place so take each case on its own merits. Always isolated before removing any cover and restrict access to the area etc. Gaz 👍
Do you build in faults such as failed test equipment and boards that are still live following the isolation process?
Could not a Category IV multimeter and test leads be used for testing?
Not recommended. Essentially the value given on a digital multimeter is a calculated RMS value worked out by the internal electronics of the meter. They can & have given errors. There is also the possibility of selecting the incorrect range i.e D.C instead of A.C (I've seen it happen!) They also have internal fuses which may be blown/ruptured. With proper voltage/potential indicators the lights etc on them are driven directly from the source of supply. There are no ranges to select or get incorrect. Couple this with a proper proving unit or 'known source of supply' you are properly indicating to yourself that the supply is dead. It's the last step before you potentially come into contact with electricity. I do it without fail every time. I like life!!
👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
Thanks
Sorry Gaz did I miss it or did you only do 9 and missed neutral to main earth?
Hi, I did earth to neutral 👍
You missed it. He did it on 8:26.
Maybe should have replayed it then Doh, didn't think you would miss that super Gaz.
Just a question i was taught to go between earth and neutral first so you going between the least dangerous conductors what's your thoughts on this?
Can I use a simple multimeter for taking these measurements to see if the circuit is live?
Also, what kind of measurement equipment did you use for this video?
Thanks
Test Leads and Probes the Requirements for GS38 Electrical Test Equipment for use on Low Voltage ruclips.net/video/mJlwKRk6A8g/видео.html
How come the neutral isn't switched? It always is on a single phase board.
You can get switched or unswitched neutrals on a 3p system
Need this link leave comment so I can find it
Shouldn't have tie wraps in the DB, Gaz.
Totally agree - I didn’t wire it and we use it for visual inspections so learners should pick that up. Thanks for commenting and watching. Gaz 🦾