When starting to surge/overlock a "closed circle" like this, I prefer to lift the foot, releasing the thread tension, pull a bit of thread out at the needle. Then I pull the "thread-tail" off the fork. This enables me to place the fabric under the foot and needle exactly where I want to start. No loops hanging on the edge of the fabric. To stop I go an inch past the beginning, lifting the foot and turn the fabric 80-90º to surge off the fabric. You seem to have an awesome machine for blind hemming? Blind-hem only? It is absolutely possible to use my serger to do this, but I prefer using my sewing machine. (I'm just an happy amateur!)
I would love to see you do a military ‘break’ in the front and a 3/4” longer in the heel. How would you measure and Mark this? Thank you for the tutorial.
I find the three-quarter inch length to be a little awkwardly long so I’ll usually only do half an inch difference, and I mark it as a straight slant with a plastic ruler from front to back and then round over the creases.
Oh geez. That's an awesome machine for blind stitching. I only have a Bernina reg sewing machine. Blind stitch never comes out great. I often find myself just wanting to hand stitch a blind stitch. Also, I don't have a serger, so finishing a raw hem is less beautiful w/ a zig zag :( If anyone has any suggestions or tips for finishing a raw edge or hemming pants w/ just a reg machine, please share!
One of the things you can do specifically for suit pant bottoms is press a half an inch fold so that you are pressing the raw edge down and then fold your hem allowance up again so that you’ll just be stitching a clean folded edge on the inside of the pant. And if you don’t like the function you have on your machine, the blind can always be done gently by hand with a very similar look.
@@sewshowwithshae Thanks for the reply! So, I pink'd the pant bottoms (less fray), did the 1/2" turn & stitched w/zigzag. The problem there is that my 1/2" wasn't a perfect 1/2", so when I turned up the final 1.5" & pressed, I realized that the hem didn't meet the pant leg evenly all the way around. This, in turn, would mean doing a machined blind stitch would be a problem as I would not be able to keep a consistent turn-back on the fabric entering thru the BH sewing foot (where the needle will grab just a tiny bit of the pant leg fabric). Thus, the needle would grab the pant leg at random places all the way around & make the hem look puckered. If you've done a traditional sewing machine BH stitch, you *know* what I mean. I ripped out the BH stitch several times before throwing in the towel & simply doing a hand stitch of the BH. SO much easier & quicker. Came out looking nice. I give up with the BH stitch on my machine. No matter how much pinning or whatever, I always have gaps (which I don't realize until I'm almost done), and then the hem looks puckered. BLEH. Thanks for the reply!
@@CritterGal68 yes, I know what you're saying. On a tapered pant leg, some of the sides need to be taken in slightly to match the bottom of the pant leg. I'm going to attempt right now:)
@@hpfeiffer715 You know, I would understand about the tapering, but in this case, it's a straight leg. It's almost like a need to press the hem & then press the turn-back as well (to ensure I catch the pant leg material as I blind stitch around the leg. I could say it might be due to the soft pant material -- heavier weight material would not be as much of a problem, I think. Regardless, I know there are people out there that have had this problem (know what I'm talking about) -- how do they get a BS to work??? UGH. So, so frustrating. And, I consider myself to be an otherwise solid intermediate level sewer (have made plenty of costumes, drapes, etc.). This one always hangs me up.
Usually just a gentle taper in either direction, a bit in and then a bit out depending on the different in circumference. Most pants allow a 1/2 on bot inseam and outseam so you have a bit of play for this procedure.
This sounds like a timing issue, if the wheel is fighting you and not getting a good grip on the bobbin thread you are due for servicing to get the top and bottom parts running together!
Hi Kelly...well....let's just say there is not a 'direct translation', the blind hemmer is a totally seperate machine with a bent single needle and no bobbin, its really quite different from the regular machine. I will admit, there is a 'blind hemming foot' attachment for regular machines (but secretly I don't care for it as a general personal preference) and it is not similar to this function.
I'm so confused by the intro. Where is the second example in this video? That's what I came here looking for, but looks like it was first example only. Second one should just have been left out of the intro then.
They are the same procedure, the 2 example pants are just showing the various ways the pants may come to you from the store; either already hemmed or loose. Both are them hemmed the same way the only difference being that you will have to cut the stitching if the pant is already hemmed and you are now wanting to make it shorter.
I recently purchased a blind hemmer and this has helped me tremendously. Thankyou so much.❤
Thank you for this tutorial, this is exactly the skill I wanted to learn!
Hi infound the mat and roller scissor. What ruler are you using? Nice tutorial.
Hello, great video tutorial! What is the brand name of the metal ruler safety guide you use to cut the pants? Thanks!
When starting to surge/overlock a "closed circle" like this, I prefer to lift the foot, releasing the thread tension, pull a bit of thread out at the needle. Then I pull the "thread-tail" off the fork. This enables me to place the fabric under the foot and needle exactly where I want to start. No loops hanging on the edge of the fabric. To stop I go an inch past the beginning, lifting the foot and turn the fabric 80-90º to surge off the fabric.
You seem to have an awesome machine for blind hemming? Blind-hem only? It is absolutely possible to use my serger to do this, but I prefer using my sewing machine. (I'm just an happy amateur!)
I would love to see you do a military ‘break’ in the front and a 3/4” longer in the heel. How would you measure and Mark this? Thank you for the tutorial.
I find the three-quarter inch length to be a little awkwardly long so I’ll usually only do half an inch difference, and I mark it as a straight slant with a plastic ruler from front to back and then round over the creases.
Thank yo. I have it pinned at 1/2” now as well. Seems to be easier to hem by hand rather than a blind hem stitch in my machine. @@sewshowwithshae
Oh geez. That's an awesome machine for blind stitching. I only have a Bernina reg sewing machine. Blind stitch never comes out great. I often find myself just wanting to hand stitch a blind stitch. Also, I don't have a serger, so finishing a raw hem is less beautiful w/ a zig zag :( If anyone has any suggestions or tips for finishing a raw edge or hemming pants w/ just a reg machine, please share!
One of the things you can do specifically for suit pant bottoms is press a half an inch fold so that you are pressing the raw edge down and then fold your hem allowance up again so that you’ll just be stitching a clean folded edge on the inside of the pant. And if you don’t like the function you have on your machine, the blind can always be done gently by hand with a very similar look.
@@sewshowwithshae Thanks for the reply! So, I pink'd the pant bottoms (less fray), did the 1/2" turn & stitched w/zigzag. The problem there is that my 1/2" wasn't a perfect 1/2", so when I turned up the final 1.5" & pressed, I realized that the hem didn't meet the pant leg evenly all the way around. This, in turn, would mean doing a machined blind stitch would be a problem as I would not be able to keep a consistent turn-back on the fabric entering thru the BH sewing foot (where the needle will grab just a tiny bit of the pant leg fabric). Thus, the needle would grab the pant leg at random places all the way around & make the hem look puckered. If you've done a traditional sewing machine BH stitch, you *know* what I mean. I ripped out the BH stitch several times before throwing in the towel & simply doing a hand stitch of the BH. SO much easier & quicker. Came out looking nice. I give up with the BH stitch on my machine. No matter how much pinning or whatever, I always have gaps (which I don't realize until I'm almost done), and then the hem looks puckered. BLEH. Thanks for the reply!
@@CritterGal68 yes, I know what you're saying. On a tapered pant leg, some of the sides need to be taken in slightly to match the bottom of the pant leg. I'm going to attempt right now:)
@@hpfeiffer715 You know, I would understand about the tapering, but in this case, it's a straight leg. It's almost like a need to press the hem & then press the turn-back as well (to ensure I catch the pant leg material as I blind stitch around the leg. I could say it might be due to the soft pant material -- heavier weight material would not be as much of a problem, I think. Regardless, I know there are people out there that have had this problem (know what I'm talking about) -- how do they get a BS to work??? UGH. So, so frustrating. And, I consider myself to be an otherwise solid intermediate level sewer (have made plenty of costumes, drapes, etc.). This one always hangs me up.
Thanks dear, is the 2" hem the same for female workwear pants or is it 1" for female pants
Totally a matter of opinion, we stick to 2” just for consistency but functionally you could leave however much you like!
@@sewshowwithshae Thanks dear
How do you address the extra fabric when you sew the hem two inches up and the pant is wider there?
Usually just a gentle taper in either direction, a bit in and then a bit out depending on the different in circumference. Most pants allow a 1/2 on bot inseam and outseam so you have a bit of play for this procedure.
@@sewshowwithshae Thank you so much!
Thank you!
I just bought my blind hemmer! Can’t wait to learn more! Thank you again for your support.
What kind of pressure foot is on the machine for the hem
My machine is not able to pick the thread from bottom, and also it is hard when I try to run the wheel, what might be the problem?
This sounds like a timing issue, if the wheel is fighting you and not getting a good grip on the bobbin thread you are due for servicing to get the top and bottom parts running together!
Nice.Thank you.
How do we do this using a normal sewing machine?
Hi Kelly...well....let's just say there is not a 'direct translation', the blind hemmer is a totally seperate machine with a bent single needle and no bobbin, its really quite different from the regular machine. I will admit, there is a 'blind hemming foot' attachment for regular machines (but secretly I don't care for it as a general personal preference) and it is not similar to this function.
Fancy machines
wenn du der Hose koblen die gute seite nach oben
I'm so confused by the intro. Where is the second example in this video? That's what I came here looking for, but looks like it was first example only. Second one should just have been left out of the intro then.
They are the same procedure, the 2 example pants are just showing the various ways the pants may come to you from the store; either already hemmed or loose. Both are them hemmed the same way the only difference being that you will have to cut the stitching if the pant is already hemmed and you are now wanting to make it shorter.
Do you have to remove th excess fabric from the first example? Cant i just keep it in?
The more material that is left inside the pant leg the more likely you will run into issues with the added bulk being rolled up inside.
What a monumental waste of time. The title should include that this requires both a server AND a blind hemming machine. 🤦🏼♀️🤦🏼♀️🤦🏼♀️
Right? I have the serger, but never heard of a blind hemming MACHINE lol!!