Need help with this carb. Rebuilt it and floods now. Checked and adjusted the float level well below the half mark in the sight glass. And still would flood...
None of mine on 86 crx have 8mm/screws, they are all old round screws of same metal. Have had to angle grind off most. And the choke was 3 rivits, and not screws.
Bro, you’re the man, these vids are sweet. What’s the risky part about checking how dirty that carb is on the inside (@ 11:20 in the vid)? I’m potentially going to do a full rebuild of the exact same wagon, but figured I’ll just start with making my own seal between the carb and manifold and then see if it moves forward. Would you recommend doing a carb rebuild just because I’ll already have it all out?
Well my main reason I don’t open them up is if you rip or Break a gasket. They are hard to find and a rebuild kit is fairly expensive. But the ones I have taken apart there is very little debris in them. The cars have to fill filters before it even gets to the carburettor.
Do you have any advice on disconnecting those green and off-white connectors? Because for the life of me, I can't get them disconnected even when pushing the tab down.
Is there a replacement carb for these that isn't the Honda one? Traded my Toyota for one of these and they have got rid of all the emissions and vacuum stuff like this. But it still just doesnt run great. Carbs never run perfect but this thing is seriously choppy and only gets like 24 mpg
@@junkyardboiz2896 bro do you have any info on what exactly i need to mount the a3 head on my a1. I would like to switch to injection without swapping. Because you know which injection engine I could mount if I want to keep the gearbox and the 4wd system of my 1986 wagon, it's not real time, it's the one that is activated by button. Thank you very much for your time and for your videos. (I would ask you questions to ask the question but my computer keyboard doesn't want to hahahaha)
Linc Qimiq You still have vacuum to run your brakes and all that but overtime all these rubber hoses and solenoid go bad and make the carburetor not function right which makes the car run terrible.
man i wish you were in NC i would pay you whatever you ask to do this to mine
Can’t wait to see episode 3
Need help with this carb. Rebuilt it and floods now. Checked and adjusted the float level well below the half mark in the sight glass. And still would flood...
I can not see where you put zip ties for manual secondary
None of mine on 86 crx have 8mm/screws, they are all old round screws of same metal. Have had to angle grind off most. And the choke was 3 rivits, and not screws.
Question. Does a weber carburetor means less vacuum lines? Or vacuum delete overall? 1st gen crx
Bro, you’re the man, these vids are sweet. What’s the risky part about checking how dirty that carb is on the inside (@ 11:20 in the vid)? I’m potentially going to do a full rebuild of the exact same wagon, but figured I’ll just start with making my own seal between the carb and manifold and then see if it moves forward. Would you recommend doing a carb rebuild just because I’ll already have it all out?
Do the carbs on those generally not get dirty? Is that why you usually don't open them up?
Well my main reason I don’t open them up is if you rip or Break a gasket. They are hard to find and a rebuild kit is fairly expensive. But the ones I have taken apart there is very little debris in them. The cars have to fill filters before it even gets to the carburettor.
Do you have any advice on disconnecting those green and off-white connectors?
Because for the life of me, I can't get them disconnected even when pushing the tab down.
Is there a replacement carb for these that isn't the Honda one? Traded my Toyota for one of these and they have got rid of all the emissions and vacuum stuff like this. But it still just doesnt run great. Carbs never run perfect but this thing is seriously choppy and only gets like 24 mpg
The best best option is a Weber 32/36 carb kit.
where my electric choke is. there are no “adjustment screws” the “screws” have holes on top and i have no idea how yo get those off.
Probably something for emissions to prevent people from fiddling with them.
Ey! Nice info!.
Did you know which head (for a Inyection swap) can be used in this motor? EW1 /D15A1?
Only Direct swap head you can use is from the D15a3/EW3. Other than that it takes a lot of machine work to fix something else.
@@junkyardboiz2896 bro do you have any info on what exactly i need to mount the a3 head on my a1. I would like to switch to injection without swapping. Because you know which injection engine I could mount if I want to keep the gearbox and the 4wd system of my 1986 wagon, it's not real time, it's the one that is activated by button. Thank you very much for your time and for your videos. (I would ask you questions to ask the question but my computer keyboard doesn't want to hahahaha)
is it legal to drive public road ? when u remove vacuum from engine?
Linc Qimiq Well that all depends on where you live.
@@junkyardboiz2896 I AM FROM ALASKA
@@junkyardboiz2896 I have valve too loose 2 valve on right and rear and other 6 valves is good
What if my air fuel mixture screw is missing?
Most likely the holes is plugged up with something. I’ve never came across a carb without it.
@@junkyardboiz2896 thank you! It was plugged. I want to replace my fuel lines and coolant hoses any recommendations where i can find them?
Fuel line you can get at just about any parts store. Coolant hoses if you’re talking about like radiator and so forth I would recommend rockauto
@@junkyardboiz2896 i want to replace the coolant hoses that go to the intake and the thermostat.
Rockauto has them if you are wanting OE Fitment or you can see what you can find locally an auto parts store
why not need vacuum ???
Linc Qimiq You still have vacuum to run your brakes and all that but overtime all these rubber hoses and solenoid go bad and make the carburetor not function right which makes the car run terrible.
@@junkyardboiz2896 ohh I see I have 85 Honda Civic right here
Bro phone nomber