Army Painter Speedpaint vs Citadel Contrast - Which is BETTER?
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- Опубликовано: 8 сен 2024
- Is the new Army Painter SpeedPaint range a challenger to Citadel Contrast paints? Is it better, or are they just different? Let's find out!
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now knowing that the red re-activates, we can find ways to work around it. Varnishing seems to be the method that everyone has come up with but I am going to try just using red as the very last color to put on and be extra careful around sections that meet with other colors. Tests like this really help the community get a head start for when this range is released, thank you so much
No problem at all, glad it was useful!
Very good video comparison. I preordered a dozen paints since the whole sets were sold out. One thing I wish you did was a longer and close up shot of the final models. It felt too short of a reveal. Other than that nice job man! I’ll be doing tests when mines finally get in 🤓
Thanks Alex 😊 Yes I agree, should have done a longer, more detailed comparison - I'm still very née to this RUclips stuff 😂 thanks for the support!
Great video again, succinct and interesting, feel better :)
Thanks man!
Wow, there's so many different kinds of paint. 😱😳
There certainly is :D
Great video, the reactivation is a non starter for me. I bought the paints and have done tests from 6mm up to 28mm. As you say I could varnish in between layers, but I never had to with Contrast, plus when I make a slip with a briush, I just want to undercoat and repaint. Not varnish, undercoat and repaint. I am surprised that you are the only second RUclips channel i have seen that has mentioned this... this definitely seems an honest review, therefore you have yourself a new follower.
Thanks Stephen, appreciate the support! Yes, I'm surprised that only a few people have picked up on this too. I will always strive to be honest with what I'm doing, I don't want anyone wasting their money!
@@DenePaintsThings sadly I got to your video after buying the starter set.. j found out the hard way 😁... some of my 6mm Italian wars miniatures seem to have yellow fever. I know these aren't Contrast paints, but to be brutally honest that's what they are set up in competition with... and in case anyone wonders, the only GW things I buy are my Contrast paints.
The paint re-activating is a strange & disappointing one.
Still on the fence to try army painter as I have a local GW store making it easier & faster to access contrast paints for me.
Yes, it's a big downside for me to be honest, but it did only happen on the red 🤷♂️
I have said it on other videos, pick up some single colours and decide after that. They are a good amount cheaper than contrast, straight out of the bottle they are a thicker consistency thus easier to control than contrast. And especially good for painting greater volumes of models. Paint up a squad of regular infantrymen very fast and to a decent quality is their biggest quality. Also miniscule stuff like leather pouches or hair becomes very easy with them.
The reactivation issue makes these a non starter for me sadly. Especially as they are harder to control as they are thinner, I would be more likely to be having to touch areas up.
Honestly, it's a big downside. I'm not sure I can learn to be 100% precise with my first application!
Let me know your thoughts below, which range do you prefer?
Based on everything I'm readying, the issue seems to be this: in order to get speedpaints to flow better and dry with less splotching than contrast paints, AP used a base which isn't typically used in acrylic paints formulated for plastic models. As a result, speedpaints do seem to address some of the biggest issues contrast has when it comes to a genuine "one and done" coat that requires no further work to look genuinely good.
The problem is that the nature of speedpaint goes against decades of technique in model painting. It's just far too fragile unless it is sealed with varnish before further application of product over it. Contrast paint is also fragile and GW warns that it should be varnished when a model is completely finished. But it's not THIS fragile.
It is disappointing because I worry many people are going to get burned here. Speedpaint will end up being more difficult to work with in a lot of situations. The one workaround may be using a gloss, quick-drying pure acrylic varnish (such as by vallejo) to spot-varnish only parts of a model you need to clean up and repaint, or are going to apply further effects on such as dry brushing. Now this doesn't take TOO long - I use vallejo pure acrylic varnish with a brush. It self-levels just fine, and dries in a few minutes. Then paint can be applied over it. Still, that's an extra level of complexity that contrast/speedpaint is conceptually intended to remove from the process.
Yeah, you've described my issues perfectly. They are great paints for being "one and done", but if you need to go back and neaten things up or apply further highlights/layers then you might be in trouble.
Absolutely spot on here…. Defeats its own purpose…. It’s too bad, I was really looking forward to this set but I might as well just go buy some liquitex acrylic gouache if varnishing between layers is required….
It’s not even about layering but applying new colors to different areas of model only to have them “bleed together”. That’s pretty terrible product design right there…. Feels like a false start to me quite honestly.
Thanks for the vid. I’d heard that the Speedpaints were *more* matte than Contrast, so if that varies from colour to colour, and with the reactivation and bleeding, I don’t know if I can be bothered to try them. I have only three Contrast paints, and the glossy shellac-iness irritates me. But I have a LOT of little guys I’d love to paint up quickly for background diorama populations, so I guess I’m still waffling.
Yes, the reactivation issue is a shame 😔 but for diorama models, I don't see it as a big issue if you're careful with your colour choices.
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Excellent video!
Interestingly I had no issues with bleeding on my Deathguard army. Or I didn't notice as I slapped it on!
What primer did you use? Same for both?
Thanks man! I only noticed it on the red when I was cleaning up, I didn't see it between other speedpaints. It's a strange one!
Reactivation is really really rough….I mean why not just go buy a bunch of acrylic gouache if we are going to have to deal with that nonsense.
Yeah, it's a negative for sure, but it did only happen with the red 🤷♂️
The bleeding of the Speedpaint even after drying overnight is concerning. I heard of it, but even reactivating after all the time to dry? Work troubleshooting.
Yeah that was a really disappointing discovery for me. It did only happen on the red, but it's still an issue.
Did you use the speedpaint white or regular acrylic paint for your touch-ups? Because the speedpaint medium will reactive the speedpaint every time.
It was a regualar acrylic white I'm afraid.
On any of the other videos that I've watched in a comparison test you were the first to have an issue with the paint running into another color. the white paint, was it truly dry? I'm sure it was. What brand of white, which white did you use?
Hey Charles, I touched up with a citadel white. I was also surprised I hadn't seen this in anyone else's video coverage of speedpaints, so did some more research and noticed that the TaleOfPainters blog also highlighted this as an issue, particularly for the red.
@@DenePaintsThings And did you only have it with the red paint? Or also some other colors?
@@NovogordV only the red one at the moment.
@@DenePaintsThings Well as a rookie painter, all knowledge is helpful. Thanks.
@@charleslatora5750 no problem at all, glad I can help!
Mmm GW vs AP I am now unsure about which one to get.
The actual results at the end are pretty telling. The Speedpaint model looks drastically better than the Contrast model in color, contrast, smoothness, shadow detail and lack of splotchiness.
What kind of primer did you use exactly, you didn't say other than "white"
The SpeedPaint finish is definitely nicer on average, and I found them much easier to apply.
This was just a hardware store satin white spray can, nothing fancy!
@@DenePaintsThings that's interesting, in another videos comments it was mentioned that the reactivation especially happens with a satin finish primer and to use a matte "toothy" primer instead. Can't remember for sure which video it was, but it may have been Army Painter that said it.
Could also explain why so many videos they do additional SP coats or layer other acrylics right over it without issue (once dry). The Wargamers guys did multiple layers and glazes over the lion they painted no reactivation etc...
First thing I'll try is multiple test models, different primers, dry and test
Also just noticed in Watch it Paint its MD2 video, he did white acrylic up layers after it dried (for what seems was just 30 minutes or so) and no re-activation. In the comments he mentions that he didn't know there was even an issue as it hadn't happened to him, however he was also using Army Painter primer rather than Satin/Contrast paint primer. Now I really want to test all primers.
After dicking about with the GW Blood Angel red, i was hoping this would be a better alternative. But with the reactivation of the paint unless you varnish over it.... not sure about this. unless you treat it as the final paint you would be applying?
Is it only reactivating with the Army painter paints or GW? or what?
I used a GW white to touch up over the red, and that's what reactivated it. Yes it's disappointing for sure, it forced you to be much nester with your initial application.
Is a brush on varnish a viable solution or will this also reactivate the speed paint?
It will work, you just need to be careful not to move it around too much. A neat, quick application does the job.
@@DenePaintsThings thanks.
Army painter themselves suggested to use a spray can or airbrush. They said that brushing could cause reactivation
Gobbertown and one other tried it with brush-on varnish without a problem. Lots have also shown that you can paint over it without it reactivating if you wait for it to be dry (generally 5-8 hours Goober/Dana/Guerilla/WArgamers/watchitpaintit and a couple others). Overnight should have been long enough though so that's a bummer. Someone else mentioned that the reactivation happened more with a satin primer (ala Contrast primers) rather than more toothy primers, but can't remember who.
Did you shake the bottles enough, I've heard that army painter needs a long solid shake before use
I shook them a lot and I used the paints a few times before filming this video. Didn't improve the reactivation issue unfortunately!
Reactivation is a deal breaker for me. Really disappointed as I was hoping to get these after some good reviews of the early samples. I don't want to spray varnish on my minis between base layers and highlights or other layering techniques. Oh well, not for me.