The good ol’ Fuji vs Hassy MF debate . . . Ive shot both systems professionally, many of the bodies and lenses from both brands, and here’s my personal summary: Pros - Hassy X: leaf shutter lenses, cleaner UI/UX, smaller/lighter Pros - Fuji 100: better lens selection, more affordable system, better eyeAF Glad you found Kuyper’s handy profiles; but I highly suggest anyone shooting any camera system go through the exercise of creating their own conversion profiles in their software of choice; I build them for every camera I own, and every use case (mainly fashion, beauty, and landscape). It’s highly valuable experience, and you realize quickly that you can make almost any properly-exposed image file mimic any manufacturers color science. It’s also a way to begin formulating your own personal “look” to your imagery, which in itself is exciting and rewarding! C1 is built for this, with tons of tools for perfecting every little aspect of a profile/look; you can do it in LR too, but it’s more fiddly. I also dismiss the notion that “Hassy has more natural colors OOC” or “Fuji has film sims, giving you more native color options” . . . The argument is BS, because it’s all subjective. Learn to build your own profiles, and all comparisons being equal, any cameras native color science becomes moot. If you’re a shooter that likes Hassy, good for you: you’ll spend more, carry a lighter system, but you’re happy to do so in that case. If you’re a shooter that likes Fuji, good for you; you’ll spend less, carry a bulkier/heavier system, but you’ll spend less to do so. Most Important: buy the camera that makes you want to shoot it more often. . . That excites you when you hold it, so much so that you can’t help but take more pictures more often. I’ve used that for years now to select my camera systems, and I wake every day excited to create something. Both cameras make equally fantastic files. No one loses. Brand loyalty debates serve the manufacturer, not the photographer. ✌🏻
@ thanks for the kudos! 🙏🏻 Photo: A7R5, GFX 100ii and 100Sii, Rittreck 5x7 (large format film) Video: FX6 and FX3 - The GFX and Rittreck see the most photo use, with A7R5 used mostly for quick-moving subjects when necessary - FX6 is my A-cam for most shooting, and FX3 is my B-cam/gimbal cam/vertical content cam - C1 for tethering and color grading; I still test/try LR every 6mos or so to see how any updates might have enhanced its usability/customisability, but it’s still WAY behind C1 for professional profiling and editing/grading.
@@matthewbushey9455 oooooh, the Rittreck, that's a great film sleeper pick! And it seems like lots of folks have landed on the Sony + GFX combo...at least until Fuji fixes/perfects their video/continuous AF! I'd also mention that I agree about C1 - the real reason I had to use LR for this video was that C1 won't take Hassy files.
@ yeah, there’s no better camera for professional video than a video-first cam. 👌🏻 And in a world where most modern LF systems are wood or composite these days (which is great), the all-metal build of the Rittreck - which folds up into its own hard body - is a treat! And 5x7 aspect ratio makes for a unique perspective, it’s rectangularity being a benefit for landscapes and portraits. Keep up the great work with the vids! It’s nice to see real-world comparisons and use, and not just a bunch of charts or microscopic AF measurement differences. 👏🏻
Thanks for the video Marc. I brought the X2D for the soul and image quality but I was finding if extremely frustrating that Hasselblad have such a limited lens range especially being an architectural photographer (plus the customer service here in Australia is basically zero). Tempted to go the Fuji but the files are just not as good, very time consuming processing and let's face it kinda ugly! I've recently brought the Techart adapter to use my Canon EOS 17mm TS on the X2D & the results are VERY good. Think I'm sticking with the Hassey. =)
@@Michelle-n4n6j that was my initial reaction to the two cameras as well (Hassy’s customer service in the U.S. is basically zero too - it’s one guy named Bernard that is shared between the U.S. and Canada), but the linear profiles + Fuji’s pristine native tilt shift lenses has really changed my mind!
@@artsilva I think there’s some truth to that, but was also surprised when applying this technique that a lot of that look actually comes from the luma curves applied to the files and HNCS. That said, I’ve also got the adapter to put H series lenses on the GFX coming…
@@SneakyCaleb I have and it does. The Q2 monochrome is great, and I own an M11 Monochrom. They are better than full frame, but not as good as these medium format cameras. The bigger sensor just gives better roll off and transitions. Not sure if it’s the 16-bit vs. 14-bit or what, but it’s noticeably better with the Hassy and Fuji MF.
btw. using Lr with anythign professional expensive is like shitting on it. in C1 you have already a linar profile… also much better colors and everything.
@@TasteofTaboo that’s part of the issue- C1 won’t take Hassy files. Tony K’s linear profiles are superior, so may apply in LR and then port over to C1, since you can do that with the Fuji. Can also tether with C1 + Fuji!
@@MarcAdesso shure because Hasselblad has phocus. Using Lr for both is really the worst possible solution. Especially color wise, details, shadows phocus and C1 are 10 years ahead. When you touch any slider it gets even worse with Lr. Skin tones are really horrible in Adobe and so much better in the other both solutions.
Great video! Thanks for sharing all this stuff. Capture one already has a built in 'linear response' profile built in for the gfx - is this the same thing?
Dear Mark your video is really phenomenal! And can change the Life of a professional like me! I continue to see differences also with the linear profile, and for this reason It could be possibile to download your photo example to test on my computer? Thanks a lot you are marvellous!! Greetings from Italy
By linearizing the Hasselblad you take their „magic“ and specific looks away and then argue that you can make the Fuji one look the same (means same boring). Where is the advantage in that?? Useful would be a way to make the Fuji pics (or those of any other camera) look like the ORIGINAL Hasselblad pictures.
I actually address this in the video, but since I have gotten a couple of questions on this question, I plan to make a new video about it- the Hassy files are actually pretty close to the linear files, so this is easy to do. The challenge I was having was that the original Fuji film sims/profiles were seriously degrading those files so it made it quite hard to match the Hassy files. Once the Fuji files are linearized, it's actually pretty easy to put the Hassy 'magic' on them. Stay tuned!
I think you could probably make any two camera look the same by removing both manufacturers colour science, which kind of defeats the purpose of buying cameras like this unless you’re doing reproduction work. Speaking of which, there’s a linear profile for Hasselblad cameras in Phocus, specifically for people doing reproduction work.
My thought exactly. If you neutralize the starting point, then the files can be worked up exactly the same. The question is, could the Hasselblad color science be emulated within a profile that can be used on Fuji. This would level out the difference.
@@dezfoto7534 interesting! I already sold the x2d, but am thinking about getting an H6D since they are pretty cheap now, so will check the linear profile in Phocus if I do. Sensor size and lenses of MF cameras still make a big difference over FF, even if you take color science out, so definitely not leaving MF after this discovery. I also have a video about Phase One and repro folks coming, so stay tuned!
@@ihavevitiligo the Hassy is basically a neutral starting point, so yes, very easy to make the Fuji look that way once the linear profile was applied. I talk a little about this in the video. But might make a separate video doing this to drive the point home…thoughts?
I own and love my GFX 100s ii...it destroys the Hassleblad for focus ...I've shot sport's, portraits, landscapes... It's a way better all round camera. Lighter 883 grams ...faster focus (again!!) Lens choices on GFX system is way better too. 👌 The hassleblad only has one advantage its leaf shutter. I have the 20-35 and it's stunning The 50 3.5 Is a great walk about lens?
@@bertagriese8282 that's a very subjective opinion considering I've made $15,000 from Prints alone out of a GFX in the last six months I would say my customers speak. .... I think they voted!! And that's considering that I do Photography part-time as a professional not a full-time gig. I print a photo and put it in my little gallery and it walks out the door. I guarantee you if I had to hasselblad that would not be the same!
@@MarcAdesso 45 beats the 38, 55 beats the 55, 110 beats the 90. 23 v 25 seems similar. the 250 or the ts lenses don't really have counterparts. the others from fuji are crap tho (30, 50, 63, 80)
@ Interesting! I agree the 50 is bad, haven’t tried the 30, but a bit surprised about the 63 and 80- I’d heard they were quite good? Also, don’t suppose you’ve compared the 20-35s? Another reason I wanted to get off the Hassy train was the cost of their version, but am also admittedly curious the lens. I think to have priced it that way, they must be quite confident in its quality!
@@MarcAdesso the 80 is sharp, but has a ton of aberrations. Unfortunately I don't know too much about the 20-35, but I believe i heard the 23 being a sliver better
I think you re going down the wrong path.The gfx was perfectly fine for commercial work.Before you download precepts from some dodgy third party site seriously dude...
@MarcAdesso lol Inaccurate colours....? 😆 I make a pretty good living out of the GFX. And I have watched plenty of reviews in comparison.You have a what's called inherent bias towards one camera brand
@@nevvanclarke9225 did you watch the whole video? Also, Fuji themselves have said their colors are not meant to be accurate…maybe I’ll make a video explaining this, their focus on memory versus reality.
@@nevvanclarke9225 my problem with Fuji's RAW files was that their film sims were 'contaminating' the files. But I found this fix for that (linear profiles), and that has been a game changer- now I can indeed get what I want out of Fuji RAW files!
![[#2024MAMA] ROSÉ (로제), Bruno Mars - APT. | Mnet 241122 방송](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/dgGqD28J6aQ/mqdefault.jpg)
The good ol’ Fuji vs Hassy MF debate . . . Ive shot both systems professionally, many of the bodies and lenses from both brands, and here’s my personal summary:
Pros - Hassy X: leaf shutter lenses, cleaner UI/UX, smaller/lighter
Pros - Fuji 100: better lens selection, more affordable system, better eyeAF
Glad you found Kuyper’s handy profiles; but I highly suggest anyone shooting any camera system go through the exercise of creating their own conversion profiles in their software of choice; I build them for every camera I own, and every use case (mainly fashion, beauty, and landscape). It’s highly valuable experience, and you realize quickly that you can make almost any properly-exposed image file mimic any manufacturers color science. It’s also a way to begin formulating your own personal “look” to your imagery, which in itself is exciting and rewarding!
C1 is built for this, with tons of tools for perfecting every little aspect of a profile/look; you can do it in LR too, but it’s more fiddly.
I also dismiss the notion that “Hassy has more natural colors OOC” or “Fuji has film sims, giving you more native color options” . . . The argument is BS, because it’s all subjective. Learn to build your own profiles, and all comparisons being equal, any cameras native color science becomes moot.
If you’re a shooter that likes Hassy, good for you: you’ll spend more, carry a lighter system, but you’re happy to do so in that case.
If you’re a shooter that likes Fuji, good for you; you’ll spend less, carry a bulkier/heavier system, but you’ll spend less to do so.
Most Important: buy the camera that makes you want to shoot it more often. . . That excites you when you hold it, so much so that you can’t help but take more pictures more often. I’ve used that for years now to select my camera systems, and I wake every day excited to create something.
Both cameras make equally fantastic files. No one loses. Brand loyalty debates serve the manufacturer, not the photographer. ✌🏻
@@matthewbushey9455 this is a phenomenal comment - thank you so much, so much good advice!! I’m curious, what system(s) are you shooting these days?
@ thanks for the kudos! 🙏🏻
Photo: A7R5, GFX 100ii and 100Sii, Rittreck 5x7 (large format film)
Video: FX6 and FX3
- The GFX and Rittreck see the most photo use, with A7R5 used mostly for quick-moving subjects when necessary
- FX6 is my A-cam for most shooting, and FX3 is my B-cam/gimbal cam/vertical content cam
- C1 for tethering and color grading; I still test/try LR every 6mos or so to see how any updates might have enhanced its usability/customisability, but it’s still WAY behind C1 for professional profiling and editing/grading.
@@matthewbushey9455 oooooh, the Rittreck, that's a great film sleeper pick! And it seems like lots of folks have landed on the Sony + GFX combo...at least until Fuji fixes/perfects their video/continuous AF! I'd also mention that I agree about C1 - the real reason I had to use LR for this video was that C1 won't take Hassy files.
@ yeah, there’s no better camera for professional video than a video-first cam. 👌🏻
And in a world where most modern LF systems are wood or composite these days (which is great), the all-metal build of the Rittreck - which folds up into its own hard body - is a treat! And 5x7 aspect ratio makes for a unique perspective, it’s rectangularity being a benefit for landscapes and portraits.
Keep up the great work with the vids! It’s nice to see real-world comparisons and use, and not just a bunch of charts or microscopic AF measurement differences. 👏🏻
@@matthewbushey9455 love it - thank you!!
Thanks for the video Marc. I brought the X2D for the soul and image quality but I was finding if extremely frustrating that Hasselblad have such a limited lens range especially being an architectural photographer (plus the customer service here in Australia is basically zero). Tempted to go the Fuji but the files are just not as good, very time consuming processing and let's face it kinda ugly! I've recently brought the Techart adapter to use my Canon EOS 17mm TS on the X2D & the results are VERY good. Think I'm sticking with the Hassey. =)
@@Michelle-n4n6j that was my initial reaction to the two cameras as well (Hassy’s customer service in the U.S. is basically zero too - it’s one guy named Bernard that is shared between the U.S. and Canada), but the linear profiles + Fuji’s pristine native tilt shift lenses has really changed my mind!
It's the lens differences for me and I always see a Much better rendering and IQ on the Hasselblads, there is more "pop"and 3D look on them.
@@artsilva I think there’s some truth to that, but was also surprised when applying this technique that a lot of that look actually comes from the luma curves applied to the files and HNCS. That said, I’ve also got the adapter to put H series lenses on the GFX coming…
The black and white won’t look better than a camera like the Leica Q2M with a purely monochrome sensor though. You should try it.
@@SneakyCaleb I have and it does. The Q2 monochrome is great, and I own an M11 Monochrom. They are better than full frame, but not as good as these medium format cameras. The bigger sensor just gives better roll off and transitions. Not sure if it’s the 16-bit vs. 14-bit or what, but it’s noticeably better with the Hassy and Fuji MF.
btw. using Lr with anythign professional expensive is like shitting on it.
in C1 you have already a linar profile… also much better colors and everything.
@@TasteofTaboo that’s part of the issue- C1 won’t take Hassy files. Tony K’s linear profiles are superior, so may apply in LR and then port over to C1, since you can do that with the Fuji. Can also tether with C1 + Fuji!
@@MarcAdesso shure because Hasselblad has phocus. Using Lr for both is really the worst possible solution. Especially color wise, details, shadows phocus and C1 are 10 years ahead. When you touch any slider it gets even worse with Lr. Skin tones are really horrible in Adobe and so much better in the other both solutions.
@@TasteofTaboo you can also use the profiles in photoshop, if that’s helpful.
Great video! Thanks for sharing all this stuff. Capture one already has a built in 'linear response' profile built in for the gfx - is this the same thing?
Thanks! Yes, it's similar in C1, but Tony Kuyper's profiles are on another level- highly recommend!
Dear Mark your video is really phenomenal! And can change the Life of a professional like me! I continue to see differences also with the linear profile, and for this reason It could be possibile to download your photo example to test on my computer? Thanks a lot you are marvellous!! Greetings from Italy
@@ProficuaFIRENZE let me see if I still have the files- if I do, will put a link in the video description. Thanks!
By linearizing the Hasselblad you take their „magic“ and specific looks away and then argue that you can make the Fuji one look the same (means same boring). Where is the advantage in that?? Useful would be a way to make the Fuji pics (or those of any other camera) look like the ORIGINAL Hasselblad pictures.
I actually address this in the video, but since I have gotten a couple of questions on this question, I plan to make a new video about it- the Hassy files are actually pretty close to the linear files, so this is easy to do. The challenge I was having was that the original Fuji film sims/profiles were seriously degrading those files so it made it quite hard to match the Hassy files. Once the Fuji files are linearized, it's actually pretty easy to put the Hassy 'magic' on them. Stay tuned!
I think you could probably make any two camera look the same by removing both manufacturers colour science, which kind of defeats the purpose of buying cameras like this unless you’re doing reproduction work. Speaking of which, there’s a linear profile for Hasselblad cameras in Phocus, specifically for people doing reproduction work.
My thought exactly. If you neutralize the starting point, then the files can be worked up exactly the same. The question is, could the Hasselblad color science be emulated within a profile that can be used on Fuji. This would level out the difference.
@@dezfoto7534 interesting! I already sold the x2d, but am thinking about getting an H6D since they are pretty cheap now, so will check the linear profile in Phocus if I do. Sensor size and lenses of MF cameras still make a big difference over FF, even if you take color science out, so definitely not leaving MF after this discovery. I also have a video about Phase One and repro folks coming, so stay tuned!
@@ihavevitiligo the Hassy is basically a neutral starting point, so yes, very easy to make the Fuji look that way once the linear profile was applied. I talk a little about this in the video. But might make a separate video doing this to drive the point home…thoughts?
I own and love my GFX 100s ii...it destroys the Hassleblad for focus ...I've shot sport's, portraits, landscapes... It's a way better all round camera. Lighter 883 grams ...faster focus (again!!)
Lens choices on GFX system is way better too. 👌
The hassleblad only has one advantage its leaf shutter.
I have the 20-35 and it's stunning
The 50 3.5 Is a great walk about lens?
So...? Still doesn’t have the superior Hasselblad colors...
@@bertagriese8282 that's a very subjective opinion considering I've made $15,000 from Prints alone out of a GFX in the last six months I would say my customers speak. .... I think they voted!! And that's considering that I do Photography part-time as a professional not a full-time gig. I print a photo and put it in my little gallery and it walks out the door. I guarantee you if I had to hasselblad that would not be the same!
@@nevvanclarke9225 The Hasselblad has the better colors no matter what you say. That doesn’t mean that the Fuji is crap and cannot sell pics.
@@bertagriese8282 what? colors are 100% subjective; how can they be better?
@@ChrisThe1 Simply closer to reality. I have a Hasselblad and a Sony A7RV - I can say this.
honestly fuji's best lenses are noticeably better than hassy's best, so it's pretty clear where I want to be
Nice! Just out of curiosity, which lenses from the GFX line are you thinking of? And which ones from the Hassy have you tried?
@@MarcAdesso 45 beats the 38, 55 beats the 55, 110 beats the 90. 23 v 25 seems similar. the 250 or the ts lenses don't really have counterparts. the others from fuji are crap tho (30, 50, 63, 80)
@ Interesting! I agree the 50 is bad, haven’t tried the 30, but a bit surprised about the 63 and 80- I’d heard they were quite good? Also, don’t suppose you’ve compared the 20-35s? Another reason I wanted to get off the Hassy train was the cost of their version, but am also admittedly curious the lens. I think to have priced it that way, they must be quite confident in its quality!
@@MarcAdesso the 80 is sharp, but has a ton of aberrations. Unfortunately I don't know too much about the 20-35, but I believe i heard the 23 being a sliver better
@@ChrisThe1 thanks!!
I think you re going down the wrong path.The gfx was perfectly fine for commercial work.Before you download precepts from some dodgy third party site seriously dude...
They are profiles, not presets - key difference that will save tons of time avoiding having to fix Fuji’s inaccurate colors.
@MarcAdesso lol Inaccurate colours....? 😆 I make a pretty good living out of the GFX. And I have watched plenty of reviews in comparison.You have a what's called inherent bias towards one camera brand
@@nevvanclarke9225 did you watch the whole video? Also, Fuji themselves have said their colors are not meant to be accurate…maybe I’ll make a video explaining this, their focus on memory versus reality.
@@MarcAdesso shoot raw you can do whatever you like.....
@@nevvanclarke9225 my problem with Fuji's RAW files was that their film sims were 'contaminating' the files. But I found this fix for that (linear profiles), and that has been a game changer- now I can indeed get what I want out of Fuji RAW files!