I just want to say that you make the best videos that shows you HOW TO not How to go somewhere else... Great stuff. You deserve a tv spot on SPEED channel
I am a proud owner of the four disk badshoe 5.0 swap! Absolutely worth the money, if you are a somewhat knowledgeable novice such as myself it is a must for your first small block Ford build.
This is true and if you watch the being of the clip you will see a note saying that pushrod length and valvetrain geometry was checked and detailed earlier in the complete 4 hour DVD. This short clip verifies that the lifter preload or "lash" is correct for the pushrod selected.
@lions66666 Your father is correct, pedestal rockers are not adjustable, you can only torque them down tight. And yes, the lifter will keep the lash at zero even as the valvetrain wears. The concern however is when you start changing rockers, cams, heads etc. the lifter may not be able to take up the lash if the pushrod is either too short (rocker will be loose) or too long (lifter plunger bottoms and the valve won't close). Therefore the video clip shows how to verify that the pushrod is okay.
I'm really using an in-lb torque wrench watching for 240 in-lb (20 ft-lb). The beam type wrench only has one moving part. The dial or click style wrenches has more parts that can vary a reading and at their heart, is some piece of spring steel as used in a beam wrench. Any torque wrench version should be fine for this work. We're not building a space shuttle here anyway.
@70Ford302 It may indicate the push rod is alittle long which makes sense because the head was cut. If you have a .050" shorter or adjustable push rod, you could check again to see if it makes any pattern difference.
@346ls6camd No, the engine's oil pressure is the only thing that will pump them up. Normally the lifter's spring pressure is enough to verify the lash adjustment as in the video. To check PTV clearance and push rod length, a lifter modded to a solid lifter and an adjustable push rod is needed. The full length Swap vol.1 DVD shows all that info.
The video answers your question. You just have to install a rocker and push rod and check. If you get from 1/4 to one full turn preload as shown in the video, your fine. If you get no preload, then the push rod is too short. If the preload is over one turn, you need to shim. Most performance setups like to keep it between a 1/4 to 1/2 turn.
This is when the lifter's plunger just starts to move down into the lifter's bore. The push rod will rotate and move easily as you tighten the rocker down but you feel resistance the moment the plunger starts to push down.
@BadShoeProductions thanks for the reply, I did re-check the pattern with an adjustable rod, didn't really seem to make a difference with how these rockers are set up. My question is, do you think anything bad will happen if the tips are slightly off center? My machine shop doesn't seem to think so, but this is going in my daily driver, so I want to make damn sure! haha!...I'll post a video with the rockers i'm using.
Try to get it as close to 90* as you can however, the valves will still be closed a few degrees before and after TDC compression stroke. Therefore the lash check will be correct for that cylinder.
@BadShoeProductions Anytime man, you keep doing this for people all the time and I admire that. It's about time someone took the time and litterally and in plain ENGLISH, step by step tell you pretty much how to check for things and not half way say. not "This is what you do now run to your local shop and tell them to finsh it". I just love this stuff man. If people would watch your stuff, no more local shops... just you
@346ls6camd As said in a statement below, the lifters spring pressure is normally enough to tension the rod cup against the clip. When you torque the rocker down, the valve may open from a tight lifter but don't worry, it will squeeze down against the valve spring pressure.
@cacthuptoit Yes, the 351 with pedestal rockers have the same lash checks. However, the complete dvd has much more detail about geometry, push rod length and valve tip contact which should also be checked.
No plans for a 5.8L build at this time however my 5.0L swap video has lots of info on checking normal engine component wear, camshaft, valve spring installation, checking rocker arm geometry and torqueing torque-to-yield head bolts all of which can apply to the 5.8L. as well.
Of course all rockers need to be checked individually which is why I show how to bring up all the cylinders to compression stroke. Stamped rockers leave such a wide contact patch on the valve head that moving the rocker on it's slot won't be much value but rollers might be helped somewhat. Fact is, pedestal rockers are not adjustable other than use of shims which should kept to a max. of .090". Therefore with pedestals, having the correct lash is the most important concern. DVD set has details.
I have no idea what push rods to use. That's why you do the test in the video to verify. If your changing from 1.60 to 1.7 rockers, you might be getting into a piston to valve clearance concern.
Yes that is a 302 (5.0L). What year model and type of car are you working on? The engine I use in my 5.0L swap vol.1 video is from a 99 Explorer and is the style used from the mid 80's and later. Go to my web site for dvd and download info.
@346ls6camd You can do both rockers for that cyl. at once when your on the compression stroke. No need to turn the crank again for that cyl. When you turn the crank two times, your back where you started from, both valves closed, compression stroke for that cyl.
@lions66666 Any time you make a change, always recheck pushrod length. After a perload adjustment, the lifter will relax a bit and the rocker may loosen which is normal.
when you get the lifter before you drop them in you said make sure its pumped up against the ring .. do they come like that new or did you get oil in them? how do you get them to pump all the way up? and once they are pumped up when you are getting rid of valve lash how do you make sure they are not pumping the lifter down when you are torqueing down the rocker? thanks on the input
Even at TDC, the valve will drop out. Compressed air in the cyl. or some old-timers have taken a rope stuffed through the plug hold, then bring the piston up to TDC by hand or until it stops turning. Hopefully that will keep the valve from dropping. Frankly, the head should be removed so the valves can be checked and spring height measured.
Ken, my heads on my 302 were milled .010"...the roller tips on my rockers ride slightly to the outboard side of center on the valve tips. Will this be a problem?...I'm using comp pedestal roller rockers (cca-1052-16) with the adjustable pushrod cups which are used to set the preload.
Hey ken! I was on your website today and was wondering if in the future there may be a windsor rebuild video I would be very interested in this along with several others I'm sure. The reason I am asking is because I am ready to get my hands dirty and I don't do well with reading then doing. It's so much better when you have a professional show you. Unfortunately I have no one to show me or help. I plan to buy your c6 video this winter so I can freshin up my tired trans thanks for everything!
The rockers are not adjustable. It may be low mileage but it's still 27 years old. The engine might be sludged up or you may be hearing an exhaust leak which may sound like a rocker. It's possible the balls on the push rods or the sockets on the rockers are worn down. If so, once again there is likely other internal wear.
Will this video walk me through the whole head setup? I need a walk through for a head swap on my mustang. I need to know everything from PTV, Push rod length, Valve lash, setting the lifters etc..
I have no idea, not enough info. If you are using pump gas now, you should be able to use it after a cam change. If your adding a supercharger with 20 psi of boost along with this cam, then pump gas may be a problem.
Understand that on non-adjustable pedestal rockers you don't have a choice on how much to turn since they must be fully torqued. Normally anymore than one turn of of preload indicates the need for shims or a shorter push rod.
Perfect thanks a lot man, I have one more question , if im installing new retainers and springs and doing a camshaft job , do I need to compress air in the cylinder or can I just keep it TDC?
hi, do you know how to identify stock cams, i just buy a 5.0 engine non roller that suppose to has a aftermarket camshaft , but i can see any logo on the back the only thing i can see is a number 21044, is that a stock cam?
hey great video...i have a 1982 mustang GT with the 5.0L H.O and i want to check my valve clearence for exhaust and intake valves it has headers and is ported and polished what should i set the clearence to
May I ask what would be the normal compression number for that set up, looks like we are using the same rollers. I'm having issues with cyc 1 and 3 lower compression than the rest.
I don't think I ever checked the compression on that engine, but I would think 150 lb. is a good number. You need to do a leak down test to see what the problem is.
What prevents the rocker from moving around side to side once its torqued down to preload specs .Stud mounts have guide plates on the pushrods to keep it aligned how do these pedestal mount ones work .????
Ken , this seems like an informative video. This is the very area that tripped me up on my last buid costing me some sweet afr 165's when it let go. Anyway the blurb at the begining of this "sample" says you went into more detail earlier in the video,is there enough "detail" to walk a decent "B" level tech through this on some gt40p's/E303 stuff
I dont get it , if there not adjustable why cant he just put in in TDC and just tighten the bolt and torque it ? Why does he check if the push rod moves if hes gonna tighten it anyway ?
This test is to verify the push rod is the correct length. If I get no preload as the rocker is torqued, the push rod is too short and the rocker will be noisey. If I get preload then still have to turn the bolt 2 or 3 turns, the push rod is too long and may hold the valve open and cause a misfire. If the rod is only a little bit long, a shim under the rocker may set the preload just right.
yea im gonna order the springs for that cam hopfully nex week an also i have crane cam roller rockers tho cobra oem ones ? their 1.7s so should i use the stock pushrods then ?
Hey I have a 351 Windsor I'm installing a new comp cam 512 lif and I'm useing 1.6 roller rocker arm is there a special way to do it or do I just follow the steps you showed.
A compression test won't tell you anything. Even if the push rod is too long the lifter will just squeeze down as long as it hasn't bottomed out. Simply install a push rod and tighten the rocker as shown in the video. If it torques down before any preload is felt, the rod is too short. If you run the bolt down and feel preload and then if it turns more than a full turn before you get to 20 lb-ft, the push rod is too long or you'll need to shim the rocker. It's just that simple.
Hi Ken, Irineu from Brasil, Is this engine are you using is the 5.0L 302 small block Ford?? Because is similar the one i have in my car, i´m interested in this vídeo,,, Thank you.
Great video!! Keep 'em coming!! Have you ever heard of swapping a higher lift cam into a 5.0 with stock pedestal rockers and having one or two tick? All lashes were set to 1/2 turn past zero. The wear groove from the lower lift stock cam can cause this correct? I have a bet with somebody ;)
i have a question i have a 350 sbc and i put a high lift cam in with valve springs and lifters but now my eshaust rockers will barly touch springs when tighend all the way down plz help do i just need 1.7 rockers?
I have 2 questions for you A)When adjusting the Valve lash with stock rocker arms, do you torque them down or do you get it to zero lash and then do a half turn? B) I know it should be done on overlap on each cylinder before tightening them down but what if I when I turn the motor 90 degree's clockwise it doesn't seem to follow the right firing order?
hey nice video bty i have an 87 mustang i put gt 40 heads not the Ps an a comp cam with a 529 lift when i put the regular rockers on an pushrods i had some slack bewtween the rocker arm an tip of the valve ?? an i went a 100 thousands longer than stock wich would be 6.350 an stock is 6.250 an now i get a valve float at 5500 rpm but when i had the stock pushrods it diddnt do that but it back fired at around 5 k plzzz write back all this is confusing me an also ur runing 6.300 in ur motor right
Hello! Good video, I have watched a couple times. I have a question though in regards to this. First I have the 5.0 in an 89 mustang with Gt-40X heads and the Ford X-cam. I also have the same rockers you show in the vid. My problem is That when I get to zero lash, I torque the rocker bolts to 20 ft lbs which takes about half a turn. But, it also slightly pushes in on the valve as well. Do I need to shim further? I'm up to.090 already with the FMS shim kit. I do have the stock push rods. What do you think?? Thanks!
+mechanized331 You're fine. The lifter is pumped up and will relax after a minute or two. After tightening a few more rockers, go back to the first one you torqued, you'll find the valve is closed and the push rod will likely turn by hand (with the cam on the base circle of course).
I wonder if I need to go slightly longer as well I have this intermittent pop that is occurring after engine reaches about normal operating temp. I have 1997 Ford Explorer early vin GT40 4 bar heads on my 5.0. I also have 1.6 ratio roller rockers
@vXLiViNGvXvEv1LXv You won't know if you need them until you test the preload as in the video clip. You may need a different length push rod as well. That's why you do this prceedure.
A *BAR* type torque wrench? Seriously? For some of us it's a source of amusement to see people spend thousands of dollars on machine work and parts only to go on the cheap when buying vital tools. Heres a clue: Dad got a C******** Lb-Ft torque wrench in the early '70s, I checked it yesterday and it came well within 2 Lbs @ 50 Lb/ft.
I just want to say that you make the best videos that shows you HOW TO not How to go somewhere else... Great stuff. You deserve a tv spot on SPEED channel
I am a proud owner of the four disk badshoe 5.0 swap!
Absolutely worth the money, if you are a somewhat knowledgeable novice such as myself it is a must for your first small block Ford build.
This is true and if you watch the being of the clip you will see a note saying that pushrod length and valvetrain geometry was checked and detailed earlier in the complete 4 hour DVD. This short clip verifies that the lifter preload or "lash" is correct for the pushrod selected.
@lions66666 Your father is correct, pedestal rockers are not adjustable, you can only torque them down tight. And yes, the lifter will keep the lash at zero even as the valvetrain wears. The concern however is when you start changing rockers, cams, heads etc. the lifter may not be able to take up the lash if the pushrod is either too short (rocker will be loose) or too long (lifter plunger bottoms and the valve won't close). Therefore the video clip shows how to verify that the pushrod is okay.
I'm really using an in-lb torque wrench watching for 240 in-lb (20 ft-lb). The beam type wrench only has one moving part. The dial or click style wrenches has more parts that can vary a reading and at their heart, is some piece of spring steel as used in a beam wrench. Any torque wrench version should be fine for this work. We're not building a space shuttle here anyway.
@70Ford302 It may indicate the push rod is alittle long which makes sense because the head was cut. If you have a .050" shorter or adjustable push rod, you could check again to see if it makes any pattern difference.
@346ls6camd No, the engine's oil pressure is the only thing that will pump them up. Normally the lifter's spring pressure is enough to verify the lash adjustment as in the video. To check PTV clearance and push rod length, a lifter modded to a solid lifter and an adjustable push rod is needed. The full length Swap vol.1 DVD shows all that info.
The video answers your question. You just have to install a rocker and push rod and check. If you get from 1/4 to one full turn preload as shown in the video, your fine. If you get no preload, then the push rod is too short. If the preload is over one turn, you need to shim. Most performance setups like to keep it between a 1/4 to 1/2 turn.
Both heads are GT40P units. If you look close through the whole clip, you can easily see the 4 bars on both heads.
This is when the lifter's plunger just starts to move down into the lifter's bore. The push rod will rotate and move easily as you tighten the rocker down but you feel resistance the moment the plunger starts to push down.
@BadShoeProductions thanks for the reply, I did re-check the pattern with an adjustable rod, didn't really seem to make a difference with how these rockers are set up. My question is, do you think anything bad will happen if the tips are slightly off center? My machine shop doesn't seem to think so, but this is going in my daily driver, so I want to make damn sure! haha!...I'll post a video with the rockers i'm using.
@caperoot That's correct using this method. This makes sure each testing cylinder is on compression and both valves are closed.
@old5oh If you race it some, you might try the thinnest rocker shim under the rockers with more than one turn preload.
Try to get it as close to 90* as you can however, the valves will still be closed a few degrees before and after TDC compression stroke. Therefore the lash check will be correct for that cylinder.
@BadShoeProductions Anytime man, you keep doing this for people all the time and I admire that. It's about time someone took the time and litterally and in plain ENGLISH, step by step tell you pretty much how to check for things and not half way say. not "This is what you do now run to your local shop and tell them to finsh it". I just love this stuff man. If people would watch your stuff, no more local shops... just you
@346ls6camd As said in a statement below, the lifters spring pressure is normally enough to tension the rod cup against the clip. When you torque the rocker down, the valve may open from a tight lifter but don't worry, it will squeeze down against the valve spring pressure.
Same applies to any style pedestal rockers. On a non-performance setup, more that one turn normally won't cause a concern.
@cacthuptoit Yes, the 351 with pedestal rockers have the same lash checks. However, the complete dvd has much more detail about geometry, push rod length and valve tip contact which should also be checked.
No plans for a 5.8L build at this time however my 5.0L swap video has lots of info on checking normal engine component wear, camshaft, valve spring installation, checking rocker arm geometry and torqueing torque-to-yield head bolts all of which can apply to the 5.8L. as well.
Of course all rockers need to be checked individually which is why I show how to bring up all the cylinders to compression stroke. Stamped rockers leave such a wide contact patch on the valve head that moving the rocker on it's slot won't be much value but rollers might be helped somewhat. Fact is, pedestal rockers are not adjustable other than use of shims which should kept to a max. of .090". Therefore with pedestals, having the correct lash is the most important concern. DVD set has details.
I have your 8.8 and T5 videos, always good info, thanks Ken.
I have no idea what push rods to use. That's why you do the test in the video to verify. If your changing from 1.60 to 1.7 rockers, you might be getting into a piston to valve clearance concern.
Yes that is a 302 (5.0L). What year model and type of car are you working on? The engine I use in my 5.0L swap vol.1 video is from a 99 Explorer and is the style used from the mid 80's and later. Go to my web site for dvd and download info.
This is a non-adjustable rocker which is why this test is so important.
@346ls6camd You can do both rockers for that cyl. at once when your on the compression stroke. No need to turn the crank again for that cyl. When you turn the crank two times, your back where you started from, both valves closed, compression stroke for that cyl.
@lions66666 Any time you make a change, always recheck pushrod length. After a perload adjustment, the lifter will relax a bit and the rocker may loosen which is normal.
when you get the lifter before you drop them in you said make sure its pumped up against the ring .. do they come like that new or did you get oil in them? how do you get them to pump all the way up? and once they are pumped up when you are getting rid of valve lash how do you make sure they are not pumping the lifter down when you are torqueing down the rocker? thanks on the input
Thanks for the info I'll try, oh yea what is the right way to break in a new camshaft.
Even at TDC, the valve will drop out. Compressed air in the cyl. or some old-timers have taken a rope stuffed through the plug hold, then bring the piston up to TDC by hand or until it stops turning. Hopefully that will keep the valve from dropping. Frankly, the head should be removed so the valves can be checked and spring height measured.
Ken, my heads on my 302 were milled .010"...the roller tips on my rockers ride slightly to the outboard side of center on the valve tips. Will this be a problem?...I'm using comp pedestal roller rockers (cca-1052-16) with the adjustable pushrod cups which are used to set the preload.
Hey ken! I was on your website today and was wondering if in the future there may be a windsor rebuild video I would be very interested in this along with several others I'm sure. The reason I am asking is because I am ready to get my hands dirty and I don't do well with reading then doing. It's so much better when you have a professional show you. Unfortunately I have no one to show me or help. I plan to buy your c6 video this winter so I can freshin up my tired trans thanks for everything!
The rockers are not adjustable. It may be low mileage but it's still 27 years old. The engine might be sludged up or you may be hearing an exhaust leak which may sound like a rocker. It's possible the balls on the push rods or the sockets on the rockers are worn down. If so, once again there is likely other internal wear.
Will this video walk me through the whole head setup? I need a walk through for a head swap on my mustang. I need to know everything from PTV, Push rod length, Valve lash, setting the lifters etc..
This video was a tremendous help, could it be possible that one bank needs shims, while another bank does not?
Should you be able to spin your push rod after 20 lbs? theres not up and sown but i can rotate my push rod.
I have no idea, not enough info. If you are using pump gas now, you should be able to use it after a cam change. If your adding a supercharger with 20 psi of boost along with this cam, then pump gas may be a problem.
So doing all 8 cylinders you would spin the crank a total of two times around or do you do both cylinders at once: 1&6 then 3&5, 7&4 then 2&8?
Excellent video, time to digest all your other ones
Understand that on non-adjustable pedestal rockers you don't have a choice on how much to turn since they must be fully torqued. Normally anymore than one turn of of preload indicates the need for shims or a shorter push rod.
Great video ! Kill all my doubts !
If I need to shim the pedestal roller rockers , can I use regular washers? I haven't access to a shim kit here ...
Yes, 5.0L Swap vol.1 shows all that detail and more. Part of it can be seen on this youtube channel for free. Give it a look.
@BadShoeProductions so if you spin the crank 2 full 360 turns you would do both rockers for that particular cylinder correct...or not thanks on input
Yes, my 5.0L swap video series has all the detail and more for any 5.0L head/cam installation.
Good video I'm about to set mine and needed help
Perfect thanks a lot man, I have one more question , if im installing new retainers and springs and doing a camshaft job , do I need to compress air in the cylinder or can I just keep it TDC?
@ksking89 The 5.0L 94-95 Mustang and Explorer also use that chain cover.
Ok so if getting this right, u would have to turn the crank a full 360• rotation twice to do all 8 cylinders right?
hi, do you know how to identify stock cams, i just buy a 5.0 engine non roller that suppose to has a aftermarket camshaft , but i can see any logo on the back the only thing i can see is a number 21044, is that a stock cam?
@VICTOR400HP The number means nothing to me but if you degree the cam and check lift, you should be able to see if it's stock.
hey great video...i have a 1982 mustang GT with the 5.0L H.O and i want to check my valve clearence for exhaust and intake valves it has headers and is ported and polished what should i set the clearence to
@BadShoeProductions do you have to leave new hydraulic lifters in a flooded pan or bucket of oil to get them to pump up? thanks sir..
Yes, if you want to verify the lash on each cylinder as each one very be just a bit different.
and when you do that half turn , is that the limit or will it turn like alot more but you should only do 1/2 turn basicly?
i have rocker arm noise on 1985 grand marquis 5.0 302 is it hard to fix it
May I ask what would be the normal compression number for that set up, looks like we are using the same rollers. I'm having issues with cyc 1 and 3 lower compression than the rest.
I don't think I ever checked the compression on that engine, but I would think 150 lb. is a good number. You need to do a leak down test to see what the problem is.
What prevents the rocker from moving around side to side once its torqued down to preload specs .Stud mounts have guide plates on the pushrods to keep it aligned how do these pedestal mount ones work .????
There's a trough the rocker fulcrum fits into keeping it from rotating.
Ken , this seems like an informative video. This is the very area that tripped me up on my last buid costing me some sweet afr 165's when it let go. Anyway the blurb at the begining of this "sample" says you went into more detail earlier in the video,is there enough "detail" to walk a decent "B" level tech through this on some gt40p's/E303 stuff
I dont get it , if there not adjustable why cant he just put in in TDC and just tighten the bolt and torque it ? Why does he check if the push rod moves if hes gonna tighten it anyway ?
The man we’ve all been looking for lol
This test is to verify the push rod is the correct length. If I get no preload as the rocker is torqued, the push rod is too short and the rocker will be noisey. If I get preload then still have to turn the bolt 2 or 3 turns, the push rod is too long and may hold the valve open and cause a misfire. If the rod is only a little bit long, a shim under the rocker may set the preload just right.
yea im gonna order the springs for that cam hopfully nex week an also i have crane cam roller rockers tho cobra oem ones ? their 1.7s so should i use the stock pushrods then ?
If you have a roller cam does that mean you have the HO???
@rcwest1971 That might be the cause but frankly, you should be using roller rockers.
Hey I have a 351 Windsor I'm installing a new comp cam 512 lif and I'm useing 1.6 roller rocker arm is there a special way to do it or do I just follow the steps you showed.
You really need some good aftermarket valve springs and roller rockers.
@bentboybbz The adjustment is the same on HO and GT40 heads. The GT40 heads flow better than the HO's.
A compression test won't tell you anything. Even if the push rod is too long the lifter will just squeeze down as long as it hasn't bottomed out. Simply install a push rod and tighten the rocker as shown in the video. If it torques down before any preload is felt, the rod is too short. If you run the bolt down and feel preload and then if it turns more than a full turn before you get to 20 lb-ft, the push rod is too long or you'll need to shim the rocker. It's just that simple.
Hi Ken, Irineu from Brasil, Is this engine are you using is the 5.0L 302 small block Ford?? Because is similar the one i have in my car, i´m interested in this vídeo,,, Thank you.
Great video!! Keep 'em coming!! Have you ever heard of swapping a higher lift cam into a 5.0 with stock pedestal rockers and having one or two tick? All lashes were set to 1/2 turn past zero. The wear groove from the lower lift stock cam can cause this correct? I have a bet with somebody ;)
so if I install adjustable rockers , I dont need shims?
Maybe the engine is worn out and there's not enough oil pressure to hold the lifters up.
i have a question i have a 350 sbc and i put a high lift cam in with valve springs and lifters but now my eshaust rockers will barly touch springs when tighend all the way down plz help do i just need 1.7 rockers?
my 5.0 is supposedly a 93 HO motor...whats the diff???
I have 2 questions for you
A)When adjusting the Valve lash with stock rocker arms, do you torque them down or do you get it to zero lash and then do a half turn?
B) I know it should be done on overlap on each cylinder before tightening them down but what if I when I turn the motor 90 degree's clockwise it doesn't seem to follow the right firing order?
If you have pedestal rockers, they are not adjustable, so you simply torque them down.
were can I get your video full video it offers at the end. ty
Did anyone notice that the passenger side head is a gt40p head "ford explorer head" and the driver side is just a regular 5.0 head?
hey nice video bty i have an 87 mustang i put gt 40 heads not the Ps an a comp cam with a 529 lift when i put the regular rockers on an pushrods i had some slack bewtween the rocker arm an tip of the valve ?? an i went a 100 thousands longer than stock wich would be 6.350 an stock is 6.250 an now i get a valve float at 5500 rpm but when i had the stock pushrods it diddnt do that but it back fired at around 5 k plzzz write back all this is confusing me an also ur runing 6.300 in ur motor right
Yeah I see that now lol i couldn't see it that great!
Do you know the length of the pushrod you used? Is it around 6.3”?
I did use 6.30" rods.
Sure the other bank could be different, even the two valves on the same cylinder.
Sounds like the push rods are too short.
Hello! Good video, I have watched a couple times. I have a question though in regards to this. First I have the 5.0 in an 89 mustang with Gt-40X heads and the Ford X-cam. I also have the same rockers you show in the vid. My problem is That when I get to zero lash, I torque the rocker bolts to 20 ft lbs which takes about half a turn. But, it also slightly pushes in on the valve as well. Do I need to shim further? I'm up to.090 already with the FMS shim kit. I do have the stock push rods. What do you think?? Thanks!
+mechanized331 You're fine. The lifter is pumped up and will relax after a minute or two. After tightening a few more rockers, go back to the first one you torqued, you'll find the valve is closed and the push rod will likely turn by hand (with the cam on the base circle of course).
are the hydraulic lifters supposed to be compressed or at the top at zero lash?
It's at the top for zero lash.
ye my bad , should of look better , I was thinking of none adjustable roller rockers..
That's correct, in fact there won't be any place to install a shim.
Thanks for the help
@cacthuptoit If it's a roller cam, just start it up and go. If it's a flat Hyd. cam, run engine at 1.5K-2K for 15 mins, then go.
@70Ford302 It will likely be fine for a daily driver.
@BadShoeProductions thanks just wanted to make sure sir nice vid..
No, you really need to use shims made for that purpose.
@Jeffmtbr No, frankly I'm a teetotaler but after 10 years of being in front of a camera, I still get nervous..Ken.
the car has very low miles on it and i just noticed it goes away win the car gets warmed up
what ratio are your roller rockers?
+Jeremy Kieler 1.6
I wonder if I need to go slightly longer as well I have this intermittent pop that is occurring after engine reaches about normal operating temp. I have 1997 Ford Explorer early vin GT40 4 bar heads on my 5.0. I also have 1.6 ratio roller rockers
I would think if your push rods were too short, you simply would hear tapping.
well I don't hear tapping, but i had more than half turn on some of my valves.
+Jeremy Kieler 1/2 turn to one full turn is fine. More than one turn indicates the push rod is too long.
@stangredemption Thank you very much.
@vXLiViNGvXvEv1LXv You won't know if you need them until you test the preload as in the video clip. You may need a different length push rod as well. That's why you do this prceedure.
A *BAR* type torque wrench? Seriously? For some of us it's a source of amusement to see people spend thousands of dollars on machine work and parts only to go on the cheap when buying vital tools. Heres a clue: Dad got a C******** Lb-Ft torque wrench in the early '70s, I checked it yesterday and it came well within 2 Lbs @ 50 Lb/ft.
@saw426 Yes
@jessnipe Just what you see in this clip.
@old5oh If it's just a street driven car, you should be fine.