I have the same ESC, with the exact same MOSFET burned out. I wonder if it's a huge coincidence, or if it's a design problem. Either way, looks like you did half the work for me, thanks for the video!
Nice Video! Few things I'd like to note. When checking Mosfets it's a quick and easy method to just check the motor pads for shorts to both ground and Vbat, certainly worth showing. What I also did not see is replacing the stock lead free solder with leaded solder, or at least with the alloy you have on hand, which is rather certainly going to be a different tin alloy. Just wipe the pad with solder wick and apply fresh solder after. And at last, I like to gently press on the top of the part to get all the excess solder out from below the part, as this might cause pins like the gate to not catch solder, if the big bottom pad has a big pile of solder on it. This will cause a blob like the one you scraped with your tweezers, likely much bigger. This is no problem at all, just take your iron, touch the blob and pull it all around the part. This will help make sure every pin has solder on. Since you already applied a proper amount of flux to the board, the solder will not stick to places it should not, and every pad will take just as much solder as it needs to function properly. Apart form that I think it's a very satisfying technique which especially helps with the real tiny parts once mastered. Nice video, well produced! I'm really surprised by the microscope!
12:04... The second I realize my 80's-early 90's college training no longer matters! I went to college for Electronics, Robotics and Computers, while component repairing DG Nova and Supernova Minis. (NASA and JPL refrigerator sized computers). I never imagined my hand to eye coordination being an issue in the future. Obviously I knew things were getting smaller, but this is ridiculous!!! I'm retiring my business this month and have my eye on your microscope and meter. Thank you for linking them.
Dude thank you from a builder! I seriously needed this ,I can't tell you how many boards I've messed up trying to do this w a magnifying glass.Although I've had a few successes ,for theost part.it has been futile.lol I love the microscope your using and I'm getting one . However the knowledge u impart is second to none .Thank you again.
Excellent job I need to watch more. I’ve done it before but I didn’t use any of the cool tools that you had. Makes it a lot more difficult and took a lot more time just to do it, now I could do it and not feel frustrated thanks for the video. Wow!
Thanks man! Watched this video months ago and finally burnt my fist couple fets. Was on a crazy bee f4fr. Was like shaving with a straight razor… Have a good one!
Did you happen to replace the burnt ones? I'm having issues with the Eachine Novice-II board (which is very similar to the crazy bee and has the same firmware f4fr). The issue I'm having is that one of the motors spins ~30% slower than the other 3. It flies normally but doesn't have the power it once had. Tried to replace motors and stuff and it looks like it's the ESC. All 3 FETs look ok, but that's to be expected, because if there was any fully blown FET, the motor wouldn't work at all. Maybe one of the FET's is just a bit damaged, but still somehow works (I've never seen that happen with FETs in all my career though), or maybe it's the gate driver or capacitor or resistor... I don't know... it's all so small and it's really hard to probe those little bastards :)
@@gregor.potrebujes Some times the drivers as well as the relative components burn too, the time it takes to replace all related components, unless you know exactly what your doing you’ll probably be better of going for a replacement fc. It’s sometimes obvious that it’s burnt, but you can still fly with a partial bunt fett. Look for a burn bubble in the bottom left of each fett. Drone mesh has a awesome tutorial on fett testing, try that if u can’t see anything
Hello I'm researching fixing a flight controller and the area I'm working on has components on the opposite side of the board. Will the components on the underside of the board fall off from the area im working?
So that flux also solders mosfet back to it place when you heat it, or did you use sonething else when you put new mosfet on place and heated it. It solders it self when heated?
i have a new Xrotor 4in1 40A (20x20) esc, never used, where one of the 4 motors pin out looks like have problem because motors even make sound when i connect lipo, and can´t be recognized via blheli 32, all others 3 do it but one not, in this case is the M2, i did make sure that is not a motor problem because i changed the motor by one that sound, what can be the issue with it?
Do they make a tiny suction device to secure and move the fets/chips? I saw a machine that placed chips work like that. It would be cool if there was one made for hobbiest.
Hi, bro! How are you doing? I hope everything is better with your family now! Congratulations again for your rich videos and knowledge that you bring to us. So... For the last 12 months, I'm working on the development of a sub 250g quadrotor and my focus in the last 3 months was on the ESC component. I'm using Li-Ion batteries because the energy density is better than Li-Po and there are currently some Li-Ion 18650 cells with a good discharge rate. The problem is that ESCs are made for Li-Po and maybe all of them have a low voltage cut-off (LVC) feature that was made for Li-Po cells, because it cuts off power when the cell voltage drops below ~3.3V. I bought 12 models of light 4-in-1 ESCs, some 1-2S, some 2-4S. My drone battery is a 2S Li-Ion, and the voltage starts at 8.4V and can drop up to 5.2V, but the ESC doesn't let it go below 6V. I tried to open the BLHeli_S code to check if is it possible to modify this LVC feature but I couldn't find where to do it. Another possibility is to change some part of the ESC, maybe removing some resistor, I don't know... Do you think is it possible to record a video about this subject? A lot of people are starting using Li-Ion cells in micro-drones because of its good energy/weight ratio, but this issue with the ESC is really a bottleneck. Any help would be very welcome. Thanks in advance and have a wonderful day!
hello dalrc 6 mosfets needed for esc. Where can I find these mosfets? What are the thickness and dimensions? I would really apreciate if you help. thanks.
Hi, i have an ESC aerostar 150amps HV and it keeps beeping , the motor doesn't start. I have checked everything, the servo tester is working fine and i also tried recalibrating it and even reprograming it but it doesn't respond in any way. What do you think it might be the problem with it? Thanks
This is so cool thanks for your video just getting into this type of repair work Have you ever use solder paste ? The microscope really helps doing the work with everything
hello i have a dalrc rocket 45a 4 in 1 buth have the battery connection the wrong way connect and the only thing that geth´s hot is the 0m25 by the + and - is this the problem can you help mi bofor i order one and try
Question. I heard you mention about how kiss has different fets and they are one of the only escs that use it... What were the other ones that also use them? Thanks. Great content as always!
I have a esc that works upside down at full speed but if I try to ride I get a hardware failure message does that sound like a mosfet issue or something else?
hello thanks for video need some advice !! i have gpu shorted to the ground so i test mosfets and capacitor some of them are shorted to ground , i remove all shorted to ground mosfet and keep 2 that's not shorted and between leads are 12v dc so it maybe a solder under gpu or vram or other shorted capacitor ! for that could i inject 12v in mosfets leads that is shorted and see wich place is seem to be hot? or any advide i will apréciate that any suggestion about how much volts and current to inject in lead or some place suggested by you! thanks and have nice day thanks for everyone who reads my comment :) see you next replay ^^
I hope you can answer me. So i have aleays wondered why esc burn so commonly. I mean there is a lot of electronic components in our lifes and not other componen is so unreliable and fails so spectacularly as rc escs. Now that i watched your video maybe you are qualified enough to know the reason. It has to be any desight flaw in them. I have bought countless cheap ebay esc and i refrigerate them a lot (its not a matter of heat) i have used them with less voltaje and ask of them a lot ñess current than they are rated for (low gearing and hight timing in a low grip tyre)
The problem was you never read the instructions hobbywing insists to use a external cap no matter what the board needs more filtering I broke one arming it fett fried they replaced it an after using caps I have 4 on 6s 1900kv builds so whatever. U do add a 35v 1000 cap
Early batch has manual saying cap is only necessary for 5S or 6S setup. Only after a lot of people reporting fires, they revised the "disclaimer". Out of all ESC's DM tested, only HW45 failed, literally. If others survive, why HW45 doesn't considering it's more expensive than most ESC tested. It's not an excuse, bad component selection and layout is the main problem.
This is awesome wow I’m so excited this video is just amazing and you are just too fucking cool man I’ve got to get a microscope and some fucking tweezers now
Replacing FETs are a myth. Ive done almost perfect jobs on 4 soeedybee f405 escs and just did my mamba f405 mk2. No success yet. Using a smoke stopper and after replacing the one bad FET on my mamba. Still acts the same and the FET was def bad and is the only issue i and their techs see as bad
The Playlist
ruclips.net/p/PLoPtpxJIxgnZXd0o3jwUju9Kg4_zCiPzO
I have the same ESC, with the exact same MOSFET burned out. I wonder if it's a huge coincidence, or if it's a design problem. Either way, looks like you did half the work for me, thanks for the video!
Nice Video!
Few things I'd like to note. When checking Mosfets it's a quick and easy method to just check the motor pads for shorts to both ground and Vbat, certainly worth showing. What I also did not see is replacing the stock lead free solder with leaded solder, or at least with the alloy you have on hand, which is rather certainly going to be a different tin alloy. Just wipe the pad with solder wick and apply fresh solder after. And at last, I like to gently press on the top of the part to get all the excess solder out from below the part, as this might cause pins like the gate to not catch solder, if the big bottom pad has a big pile of solder on it. This will cause a blob like the one you scraped with your tweezers, likely much bigger. This is no problem at all, just take your iron, touch the blob and pull it all around the part. This will help make sure every pin has solder on. Since you already applied a proper amount of flux to the board, the solder will not stick to places it should not, and every pad will take just as much solder as it needs to function properly. Apart form that I think it's a very satisfying technique which especially helps with the real tiny parts once mastered. Nice video, well produced! I'm really surprised by the microscope!
12:04... The second I realize my 80's-early 90's college training no longer matters!
I went to college for Electronics, Robotics and Computers, while component repairing DG Nova and Supernova Minis. (NASA and JPL refrigerator sized computers).
I never imagined my hand to eye coordination being an issue in the future.
Obviously I knew things were getting smaller, but this is ridiculous!!!
I'm retiring my business this month and have my eye on your microscope and meter. Thank you for linking them.
Dude thank you from a builder! I seriously needed this ,I can't tell you how many boards I've messed up trying to do this w a magnifying glass.Although I've had a few successes ,for theost part.it has been futile.lol I love the microscope your using and I'm getting one .
However the knowledge u impart is second to none .Thank you again.
where do you buy your FETs, diodes etc.?
Hi, did you find it out? I need mosfet for speedybee 405 v3 esc
@@nazarkokhan no, can't help you there
@@nazarkokhanhave You found it yet? im in the same spot
Awesome guide! Where can one get replacement fets except from other ESC?
Excellent job I need to watch more. I’ve done it before but I didn’t use any of the cool tools that you had. Makes it a lot more difficult and took a lot more time just to do it, now I could do it and not feel frustrated thanks for the video. Wow!
Super 😜🤘 où est ce que tu as trouvé les diagrammes de ton esc ?
Thanks man! Watched this video months ago and finally burnt my fist couple fets.
Was on a crazy bee f4fr.
Was like shaving with a straight razor…
Have a good one!
Did you happen to replace the burnt ones? I'm having issues with the Eachine Novice-II board (which is very similar to the crazy bee and has the same firmware f4fr). The issue I'm having is that one of the motors spins ~30% slower than the other 3. It flies normally but doesn't have the power it once had. Tried to replace motors and stuff and it looks like it's the ESC. All 3 FETs look ok, but that's to be expected, because if there was any fully blown FET, the motor wouldn't work at all. Maybe one of the FET's is just a bit damaged, but still somehow works (I've never seen that happen with FETs in all my career though), or maybe it's the gate driver or capacitor or resistor... I don't know... it's all so small and it's really hard to probe those little bastards :)
@@gregor.potrebujes
Some times the drivers as well as the relative components burn too, the time it takes to replace all related components, unless you know exactly what your doing you’ll probably be better of going for a replacement fc.
It’s sometimes obvious that it’s burnt, but you can still fly with a partial bunt fett. Look for a burn bubble in the bottom left of each fett.
Drone mesh has a awesome tutorial on fett testing, try that if u can’t see anything
@@gregor.potrebujes
Also get your self a pair of multimeter tweezers. Changes the game.
@@gregor.potrebujes Having a similar issue on my playf4 board, did you manage to fix yours?
@@yashasranjan8497 Unfortunately not...
Hi, is it possible to do this with a normal soldering iron ?
when in doubt..... add more flux?
Hello I'm researching fixing a flight controller and the area I'm working on has components on the opposite side of the board. Will the components on the underside of the board fall off from the area im working?
what did you actuall do with the soldering iron? Did you add a bit of fresh solder?
So that flux also solders mosfet back to it place when you heat it, or did you use sonething else when you put new mosfet on place and heated it. It solders it self when heated?
How did you find that they are both n channel fets compared to an n and a p Chanel fet?
i have a new Xrotor 4in1 40A (20x20) esc, never used, where one of the 4 motors pin out looks like have problem because motors even make sound when i connect lipo, and can´t be recognized via blheli 32, all others 3 do it but one not, in this case is the M2, i did make sure that is not a motor problem because i changed the motor by one that sound, what can be the issue with it?
Do they make a tiny suction device to secure and move the fets/chips? I saw a machine that placed chips work like that. It would be cool if there was one made for hobbiest.
I think there is I bought ancheap one before and it was terrible so I lost hope but I'll look into if anything better came out.
Hi, bro! How are you doing? I hope everything is better with your family now!
Congratulations again for your rich videos and knowledge that you bring to us.
So... For the last 12 months, I'm working on the development of a sub 250g quadrotor and my focus in the last 3 months was on the ESC component. I'm using Li-Ion batteries because the energy density is better than Li-Po and there are currently some Li-Ion 18650 cells with a good discharge rate. The problem is that ESCs are made for Li-Po and maybe all of them have a low voltage cut-off (LVC) feature that was made for Li-Po cells, because it cuts off power when the cell voltage drops below ~3.3V. I bought 12 models of light 4-in-1 ESCs, some 1-2S, some 2-4S. My drone battery is a 2S Li-Ion, and the voltage starts at 8.4V and can drop up to 5.2V, but the ESC doesn't let it go below 6V. I tried to open the BLHeli_S code to check if is it possible to modify this LVC feature but I couldn't find where to do it. Another possibility is to change some part of the ESC, maybe removing some resistor, I don't know... Do you think is it possible to record a video about this subject? A lot of people are starting using Li-Ion cells in micro-drones because of its good energy/weight ratio, but this issue with the ESC is really a bottleneck. Any help would be very welcome. Thanks in advance and have a wonderful day!
Thanks .... I have to look into it and if it's a matter of hardware should be a simple fix. Need couple days to get around testing that.
I was looking into 21700s from used Tesla battery packs they look promising 5000mah but are so expensive. For used ones they go $8+/piece.
how do we identify what replacement components to buy?
Were do you get the smd components from?
hello dalrc 6 mosfets needed for esc. Where can I find these mosfets? What are the thickness and dimensions? I would really apreciate if you help. thanks.
Hi, i have an ESC aerostar 150amps HV and it keeps beeping , the motor doesn't start. I have checked everything, the servo tester is working fine and i also tried recalibrating it and even reprograming it but it doesn't respond in any way. What do you think it might be the problem with it? Thanks
I have two 4 in 1 esc that need repaired, would you want to repair them if I payed you?
This is so cool thanks for your video just getting into this type of repair work
Have you ever use solder paste ?
The microscope really helps doing the work with everything
hello i have a dalrc rocket 45a 4 in 1 buth have the battery connection the wrong way connect and the only thing that geth´s hot is the 0m25 by the + and - is this the problem can you help mi bofor i order one and try
Question. I heard you mention about how kiss has different fets and they are one of the only escs that use it... What were the other ones that also use them?
Thanks. Great content as always!
dude any tips on preventing neighboring components from shifting while doing rework? putty?
I have a esc that works upside down at full speed but if I try to ride I get a hardware failure message does that sound like a mosfet issue or something else?
Can you update the product links please?
The mamba 506 esc use QN3109 mosfets, but I dont find the same, It says "QN3109 809 13K", can I use another replacement?
Could you please make a video on how to fix FC particularly omnibus f4 Pro corner? Thanks
Amazing fix, and great video.
I can't find these fets anywhere. Can you possibly drop me a link?
This will probably come in handy, I literally just put my cygnet cx3 in a creek xD cleaned it with IPA and its currently baking in the oven.
How much air and temperature ???? You remove mosfet
Could I send you a few ESC for repairs??
Yo bro do you still replace MOSFET still bro?
Wow, I've burned out mosfet on motor 1 on microquad. I def cant handle this minute level task. Any takers?? 💰
Awesome thanks bud definitely helped 👍🏻
hello thanks for video
need some advice !!
i have gpu shorted to the ground so i test mosfets and capacitor some of them are shorted to ground , i remove all shorted to ground mosfet and keep 2 that's not shorted and between leads are 12v dc
so it maybe a solder under gpu or vram or other shorted capacitor !
for that could i inject 12v in mosfets leads that is shorted and see wich place is seem to be hot? or any advide i will apréciate that
any suggestion about how much volts and current to inject in lead or some place suggested by you!
thanks and have nice day
thanks for everyone who reads my comment :) see you next replay ^^
Where do you get fets? Nice video!!! Subscribe
Mouser just look up the fet number.. Thanks for the Subscribe :)
Awesome video! Thank you!
I hope you can answer me. So i have aleays wondered why esc burn so commonly. I mean there is a lot of electronic components in our lifes and not other componen is so unreliable and fails so spectacularly as rc escs. Now that i watched your video maybe you are qualified enough to know the reason. It has to be any desight flaw in them. I have bought countless cheap ebay esc and i refrigerate them a lot (its not a matter of heat) i have used them with less voltaje and ask of them a lot ñess current than they are rated for (low gearing and hight timing in a low grip tyre)
1. short circuit somewhere
2. Wrong firmware from manufacturer regarding dead time
3. Very large voltage spikes.
4. Sudden motor stops
Last one shitty design
Great video thanks
This guys is genius :)
Nice work brother!!!
👍😀👍
Pretty nice work, dude!!! 😊
Nice video 👍❤️
i have 3 of those escs all with broken at that exact same spot
Thats a realy nice fix 🤘👌 thx and go on 🍀🍀🍀 greets
youre a legend. thank you
The problem was you never read the instructions hobbywing insists to use a external cap no matter what the board needs more filtering I broke one arming it fett fried they replaced it an after using caps I have 4 on 6s 1900kv builds so whatever. U do add a 35v 1000 cap
Early batch has manual saying cap is only necessary for 5S or 6S setup. Only after a lot of people reporting fires, they revised the "disclaimer". Out of all ESC's DM tested, only HW45 failed, literally. If others survive, why HW45 doesn't considering it's more expensive than most ESC tested. It's not an excuse, bad component selection and layout is the main problem.
For starters, where's your grounded anti-static mat and wrist strap ? Go figure ! Where's your solder wick ? What a cowboy !
3:49 capacitors => MOSFETs ???
Yea that is what i meant but hoping you guys would understand its very hard to record such a video
How did you find the freaking schematics
yo man look at the white lipo power clip @17:40
These are super cheap alligator clips if the motor had props they would of acted as a fuse.
@@DroneMesh oh lol can we talk on discord later
You might want to remove the piece of metal that is stuck in the motor winding :-)
It was a string I noticed it while editing the video. ;)
This is awesome wow I’m so excited this video is just amazing and you are just too fucking cool man I’ve got to get a microscope and some fucking tweezers now
When I sit there after watching vid, 450 deg hott air flowing onto a fet for like 1.5 whole minutes and it doesn't come loose.
You need to add more flux.... :) But great video anyway)
I think you blew the FETs with a Gaoneng 2200mah 130C/260C batteries. Chinese never lie, so that mean 570A was flowing throught your ESC!!!
Replacing FETs are a myth. Ive done almost perfect jobs on 4 soeedybee f405 escs and just did my mamba f405 mk2. No success yet. Using a smoke stopper and after replacing the one bad FET on my mamba. Still acts the same and the FET was def bad and is the only issue i and their techs see as bad
did you change the motor? a burn motor will continue to burn the fets
@@emon6436 yes, ive used multiple motors and tried using other same model donor fets and it has me beyond puzzled.
Holy shit.Thats brain surgery.Makes me wish i didn't shake a lil.
Dude u have so many adds on ur channel makes it dam near not wirth watching
Were do you get the smd components from?