*I bought this model for my 14 ft Jon boat. **enjoyable.fishing** recommend love it!!! It pushes my boat with ease ( 2 men 220 each). I would highly recommend this to anyone.*
You can peel up the back hatch from the factory marine goop and re-seat the lid with no issues. The marine goop doesn't need to be replaced and will re-seal the hatch after you spin it around. I've done it to 3 different 128's now. Works great.
@@wesjones7260 BRO! I'm so sorry to hear that. I hate thieves. Are you able to get a new setup? You should do a Go Fund Me and I'll help you out a bit if you need.
@@SergioAicardi thanks man, I'm gonna get one hopefully in the next couple months. What sucks is bass pro doesnt sell the 128T any more, so I think I'll have to go with the 12T
@@wesjones7260 ok good to know. Good luck man, you may want to get a GPS tracker on your next one in case someone tries to steal it. They have really cheap gps trackers on Amazon.
For those of us less electrically inclined, could you dummy down an explanation on; 1) how you connect to motor wires to the trailer connection (I presume there's not a one-to-one wire connection), 2) how the trailer connection is joined to the battery (same thing) and 3) the modifications needed to the basic control switch to move it to the seat area (this I presume IS a simple one-to-one connection)? Since we couldn't see the switch, I'm guessing it remains somewhat intact but with the control stem sticking up through the floor into your steampunk "knob". Saw your other updated video but I need to walk before I can run.
Super straight forward, just maintain a one to one connection. You want to make sure where you hook the red/black/yellow/white wire in the plugs will match the same wire on the receiving end.
I use reverse too much to want to zip tie the lock lever open. Also, the purpose of the way my lift system is designed is to allow me to use the motor at different depths without having to keep constant pressure on the foot pedals.
you can remove the rear hach very easy. just heat it where the marine goup is, warm it up and it will come off easy. then just turn it around, re heat it and screw it down and it will be seal itself. very easy to do.
Fat Robs Fishing worth every bit of money and effort for sure! It's the kinda thing that once you do it, it's done! Maintenance free. I expect this to last me the rest of my life.
Do you have a video on how you built the Trolling motor setup? The receiver is interesting with the hitch connection. I wish I could see how you hooked up the start and change speed controller. Thanks for sharing.
I'm using a Mighty Max brand (from Amazon). It was $130 with free shipping and is 55Ah. The first time I took it out, I was on the water from sunup to sundown, 14 hours, and ran the motor about half that time on speeds ranging from 1 to 5. When I got home, it still had 50% charge. EXTREMELY pleased with the battery, glad I opted for 55Ah instead of 35.
Hey Wes, how's your L-Bracket holding up on your trolling motor setup? Would you still recommend that route, or have you had any hickups or learned anything from it? I'm going to attempt to set mine up in the same manner this week. I'll be using a 55lb Thrust motor and wondered how the torque would affect the integrity of the kayak. Also, did you use washers (to hold the l brackets snug) on the inside of the kayak?
Im several months in with using this trasom setup and I am still 150% happy with it. Ive actually hooked my 2.5hp suzuki outboard to the same transom and it was more than capable of withstanding the torque!
@@wesjones7260 Thanks for the reply! Could you tell me what size it is? I bought 1" but not wide enough. I also read one of your responses about wanting a lighter kayak. Have you looked at the 12T? Mine's 77 lbs. Not as much storage room though. Thanks again.
@@darrenengland3793 i actually just upsized my motor to a 55lb and its really scoots now. I didnt want to get a 12T because it doesnt have a rear hatch so installing the plug and wiring would be more difficult. I believe the size wire loom I have is 3/4''
How is the steering connected to motor and does the pvc just slide over or does that hold it in place. I want to do my steering this way but lost on how its connected and how to use the pvc
Theres a hole in the top of the shaft from where the stock minn kota head/handle/control mounts with a screw. I just drilled a hole in the pvc and used the same hole in the shaft.
I have a few questions. What sive PVC did you use and What is that know you attached to the switch? It look like some sort of brass fitting. Id like to use something like it
I used 1" pvc for the primary and a reducer bushing down to 3/4" for the arms. The switch was a brass fitting i attached to the switch with a machine screw. Check out the top comment, i have an updated build link.
Just came across you're video and like some of you're ideas I also have an ascend but it's a 2017 12t and did upgrades nice video I just started my channel and maybe some of my ideas may help you I know some of will help me I have subscribed to you're channel thanks tigth lines
The hinges are crap and will warp and leak. The seats will rust and the rivnuts fail. The rest iof the kayak is pretty good if you don't need to travel too far. I've had one for several years and it has held up well.
Id like to do this to my yak but ill be transporting on top of my car and will have to take motor off while going to launch site how do u detach the speed module so motor can be taken off
@@wesjones7260 ok, I'm gonna definitely need some guidance on how to wire up the 7 way connector properly. Did you make a video of that part? I have yet to take apart the motor handle but I'm guessing the orientation of the connection between the motor and connector is supposed to be done in a certain way.
@@SergioAicardi when you take it apart theres only 5 wires and they plug into the speed coil pack and it is clearly marked with words which colors connect to which lead
Nice man congrats! No, I have never flipped this or even came close. Though one time I did almost fall off it while I was standing up on it paying no attention to currents around me.
Hello there. I flipped mine, on Easter 4 years ago. I actually flipped it 3 times in about 5 min. Lost around 400 bux on fishing gear. Water was 65 degrees. Was rescued by the Florida wildlife commission boat after radioing for help... What a shame!
In many cases once you add a trolling motor to kayak you have to register your boat . How hard was that or maybe does your fish and game control let you pass on it where you live ? Here in texas you have to register it once you add a trolling motor.
Another plus with registering it is that now my auto insurance policy covers it in addition to my home insurance. Which was good this kayak ended up getting stolen from me.
would be cool if you1 did a series on Modern out one of those cheap Sun Dolphins I saw in the background for us broke peps . YOU HAVE DUN AN ALSOM JOB . be proud !
The PVC is 1" on the main body, and 3/4" on the arms. The speed control is a pulse width modulator, and I've been told the company that makes them has since gone out of business.
well I gotta be honest with you, my kayaks have barely been used since I bought them I got the same one you got and a 10 footer version for my fiance. I already ordered all the parts to mod them the same way you did. Question - do you think the 10 footer is too small for the same setup??
Love the build wes i cant spot watching vid. Im about to start work on my yak so ill probably have ton of questions lol. The mighty max im about to order a battery is that a marine battery and would it be worth getting a higher mill amp or not cause that seemed to give plenty of run time. Im in late 50s so i want to reduce my paddle time lol
It's a sealed lead acid battery, suitable for mounting in any position and perfect for marine applications. I have the 55ah, and it's never got below 40% on me even after 8hr+ fishing days with nearly continuous use.
UPDATED BUILD! 😆😆😅
ruclips.net/video/97cb8BTof_k/видео.html
Can you send specs on trolling motor and batt?
@@teedub68 now days I use a 55lb thrust minn kota and 55ah might max SLA battery
Speedy delivery. Easy installation. Quiet operation. Priced reasonably.
Yah I'm pretty awesome
Thanks for doing this video. You have done a great job on the mods.
Thanks brother!
*I bought this model for my 14 ft Jon boat. **enjoyable.fishing** recommend love it!!! It pushes my boat with ease ( 2 men 220 each). I would highly recommend this to anyone.*
You can peel up the back hatch from the factory marine goop and re-seat the lid with no issues. The marine goop doesn't need to be replaced and will re-seal the hatch after you spin it around. I've done it to 3 different 128's now. Works great.
Great advice! Any particular tool you'd recommend for separating the the hatch from the goop?
Just grab the inside edge and pull. It will take a little effort to remove but not much.
I have to say this is the cleanest setup looks good
Thanks!
This is state of the art technology. Well done man!
Thanks brother. Sadly was stolen very recently.
@@wesjones7260 BRO! I'm so sorry to hear that. I hate thieves. Are you able to get a new setup? You should do a Go Fund Me and I'll help you out a bit if you need.
@@SergioAicardi thanks man, I'm gonna get one hopefully in the next couple months. What sucks is bass pro doesnt sell the 128T any more, so I think I'll have to go with the 12T
@@wesjones7260 ok good to know. Good luck man, you may want to get a GPS tracker on your next one in case someone tries to steal it. They have really cheap gps trackers on Amazon.
I just used mine last night in a pond first time. mine has no mods at all n it didn't come with a back storage but still was 1k
Very good review
What kind of seat do you have and where did you purchase it?
It came with the kayak. I bought it at Bass Pro shops.
Sweet upgrades man. I really like your trolling motor add. Really nice trailer.
Thanks brother!
Very clean setup brother.
aviator1352 thanks man!
For those of us less electrically inclined, could you dummy down an explanation on; 1) how you connect to motor wires to the trailer connection (I presume there's not a one-to-one wire connection), 2) how the trailer connection is joined to the battery (same thing) and 3) the modifications needed to the basic control switch to move it to the seat area (this I presume IS a simple one-to-one connection)? Since we couldn't see the switch, I'm guessing it remains somewhat intact but with the control stem sticking up through the floor into your steampunk "knob". Saw your other updated video but I need to walk before I can run.
Super straight forward, just maintain a one to one connection. You want to make sure where you hook the red/black/yellow/white wire in the plugs will match the same wire on the receiving end.
that's freaking awesome!!!!!!!!!
If you zip tie the tilt locking lever open you can just push both feet forward to tilt the motor , thats the way Ive built mine and works great
I use reverse too much to want to zip tie the lock lever open. Also, the purpose of the way my lift system is designed is to allow me to use the motor at different depths without having to keep constant pressure on the foot pedals.
Awesome score on the trailer.
Awesome setup cool trailer 👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
Much appreciated!
You think this setup is gator proof? I’m comfortable being around them but always good to be safe.
Definitely not.
That's why I always bring my sidearm...ya never know..
you can remove the rear hach very easy. just heat it where the marine goup is, warm it up and it will come off easy. then just turn it around, re heat it and screw it down and it will be seal itself. very easy to do.
Yup you'll see in my updated build video, I did just that. Except I didn't have to heat it, just pried it up with a caulk knife.
Nice setup, I have been considering adding a trolling motor to mine too.
Fat Robs Fishing worth every bit of money and effort for sure! It's the kinda thing that once you do it, it's done! Maintenance free. I expect this to last me the rest of my life.
The front piece is for your paddles when you take them apart that’s really what it’s for,
Danny Evans Yep that's what I'd been using mine for. Ive since removed it and put another 8" deck hatch in its place to maximize my storage potential.
Wes. Excellent video.
Thank you
Do you have a video on how you built the Trolling motor setup? The receiver is interesting with the hitch connection. I wish I could see how you hooked up the start and change speed controller. Thanks for sharing.
Yes, new video coming soon with exactly that!
What would you call those angled grommets or chase pieces where you ran the foot pedal cable through?
Aluminum Ferrule and Stop Set
Picked mine up at Lowes 🤙
I will need those aswell but the cable pass through piece you have, where the cable runs through the hull thats what im looking for
Nvm i must be thinking of another video
Sweet setup, man
Great review video on this ! What battery are you using and its amp hours rating? does it last awhile?
I'm using a Mighty Max brand (from Amazon). It was $130 with free shipping and is 55Ah. The first time I took it out, I was on the water from sunup to sundown, 14 hours, and ran the motor about half that time on speeds ranging from 1 to 5. When I got home, it still had 50% charge. EXTREMELY pleased with the battery, glad I opted for 55Ah instead of 35.
Hey Wes, what do you use to re-charge your battery?
good job
ray g Thanks man!
How heavy is your rig? Could you drag it across 50yards of grass into a lake?
Definitely not.
Its 140lbs with battery and motor LOL
wes jones you should get those wheels for it so you can roll it to the water
@@karen_boomer8603 how many kayaks have you equipped with those that failed?
Because I've had several and they're garbage...
wes jones ive never had one I heard they break easy like your saying though
Hey Wes, how's your L-Bracket holding up on your trolling motor setup? Would you still recommend that route, or have you had any hickups or learned anything from it? I'm going to attempt to set mine up in the same manner this week. I'll be using a 55lb Thrust motor and wondered how the torque would affect the integrity of the kayak. Also, did you use washers (to hold the l brackets snug) on the inside of the kayak?
Ahhhh, disregard.. I found the answers to my questions just a few posts below.. you did a video about your transom mount also!! Thanks buddy..
Im several months in with using this trasom setup and I am still 150% happy with it. Ive actually hooked my 2.5hp suzuki outboard to the same transom and it was more than capable of withstanding the torque!
How did you drill into the kayak for the transom mount?
did you use a special screws and epoxy it on?
nubb1337 here's how i did my transom: ruclips.net/video/Ub23T50KHw0/видео.html
That trailer was a score!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Yeah it was, I was willing to pay $300 for it. It was hard to keep a poker face when I talked them down to $180!
Hey Wes. Love the videos. Curious what you used for the hose coming out of the top of the trolling motor? Looks like a vacuum hose.
Split wire loom, can be found locally at almost any hardware store, real cheap too! Thanks for the comment 🤘
@@wesjones7260 Thanks for the reply! Could you tell me what size it is? I bought 1" but not wide enough. I also read one of your responses about wanting a lighter kayak. Have you looked at the 12T? Mine's 77 lbs. Not as much storage room though. Thanks again.
@@darrenengland3793 i actually just upsized my motor to a 55lb and its really scoots now. I didnt want to get a 12T because it doesnt have a rear hatch so installing the plug and wiring would be more difficult. I believe the size wire loom I have is 3/4''
How is the steering connected to motor and does the pvc just slide over or does that hold it in place. I want to do my steering this way but lost on how its connected and how to use the pvc
Just some simple 1" pvc! I use a bolt to secure the pvc to the motor shaft.
How is the pvc attached to the motor shaft
Theres a hole in the top of the shaft from where the stock minn kota head/handle/control mounts with a screw.
I just drilled a hole in the pvc and used the same hole in the shaft.
@@wesjones7260 thanks
I have a few questions. What sive PVC did you use and What is that know you attached to the switch? It look like some sort of brass fitting. Id like to use something like it
I used 1" pvc for the primary and a reducer bushing down to 3/4" for the arms.
The switch was a brass fitting i attached to the switch with a machine screw.
Check out the top comment, i have an updated build link.
Do you have a video on you mounting the trolling motor. Have the same yak like your idea. Nice vid
Aaron thanks man, and here check out this vid how i did my transom mount:
ruclips.net/video/Ub23T50KHw0/видео.html
Did you trim the shaft down any?
Nope
How do you turn on the trolley
With the PWM potentiometer switch.
Oh thanks
Can you do a video how you did it?
@@answernow2548 ruclips.net/video/97cb8BTof_k/видео.html
The first few mins is me talking abt it
Just came across you're video and like some of you're ideas I also have an ascend but it's a 2017 12t and did upgrades nice video I just started my channel and maybe some of my ideas may help you I know some of will help me I have subscribed to you're channel thanks tigth lines
The hinges are crap and will warp and leak. The seats will rust and the rivnuts fail. The rest iof the kayak is pretty good if you don't need to travel too far. I've had one for several years and it has held up well.
I've had no problem with either, you must have a bad one.
Id like to do this to my yak but ill be transporting on top of my car and will have to take motor off while going to launch site how do u detach the speed module so motor can be taken off
Check my updated build that is "sticked" at the top. So long as you have a plug port you can easily detach the motor.
@@wesjones7260 ok thanks ill check it out. Awesome mods by the way
What size PVC did u need to use for the cross Wes?
3/4" on the arms, 1" on the main
@@wesjones7260 you the man, what was the "Thor's hammer" version of the control knob made of?
@@SergioAicardi brass fittings from lowes!
@@wesjones7260 ok, I'm gonna definitely need some guidance on how to wire up the 7 way connector properly. Did you make a video of that part? I have yet to take apart the motor handle but I'm guessing the orientation of the connection between the motor and connector is supposed to be done in a certain way.
@@SergioAicardi when you take it apart theres only 5 wires and they plug into the speed coil pack and it is clearly marked with words which colors connect to which lead
Nice video.
I just bought thus kayak.
Have you ever flipped it?
Please reply
Nice man congrats! No, I have never flipped this or even came close. Though one time I did almost fall off it while I was standing up on it paying no attention to currents around me.
I got one a week ago and nearly flipped it. But I’m fat
Hello there.
I flipped mine, on Easter 4 years ago.
I actually flipped it 3 times in about 5 min.
Lost around 400 bux on fishing gear.
Water was 65 degrees.
Was rescued by the Florida wildlife commission boat after radioing for help...
What a shame!
In many cases once you add a trolling motor to kayak you have to register your boat . How hard was that or maybe does your fish and game control let you pass on it where you live ? Here in texas you have to register it once you add a trolling motor.
Took 10mins at the dmv and was cheap
Another plus with registering it is that now my auto insurance policy covers it in addition to my home insurance.
Which was good this kayak ended up getting stolen from me.
@@wesjones7260 wow sorry to hear of the thieft.
would be cool if you1 did a series on Modern out one of those cheap Sun Dolphins I saw in the background for us broke peps . YOU HAVE DUN AN ALSOM JOB . be proud !
Hey Wes, How do you remove the head from the trolling motor?
just a couple screws in there tht hold it
what happens if you run aground? How do you raise your motor?
Here's the lift system i implemented:
ruclips.net/video/xEXWh_v0tOI/видео.html
Interested in the pvc for the top of trolling motor. Also the switch for the control speeds. Got anymore details???
The PVC is 1" on the main body, and 3/4" on the arms. The speed control is a pulse width modulator, and I've been told the company that makes them has since gone out of business.
well I gotta be honest with you, my kayaks have barely been used since I bought them I got the same one you got and a 10 footer version for my fiance. I already ordered all the parts to mod them the same way you did. Question - do you think the 10 footer is too small for the same setup??
No, the next one I buy will be the 10 footer, the 128 is too heavy long and wide I think the 10 footer will be faster for me
can you stand on the 128T?
Ricky Fennecken yes, i stand up and fish on it more than i sit down!
im either getting this or the pelican catch 120. having a hard time choosing because the pelicans price point
Ricky Fennecken out of my Ascend, my Hobie, and my Feel Free kayaks I've owned, this one has been my favorite by a huge margin.
The 12 ft one is a dream to stand in the 10ft one is tricky not as stable
Can you tell me where the Hull ID is located on this kayak?
I really cant remember.
Every one of these trolling motor mods have the steering cables way up high on the shaft, is there a particular reason for this?
See my lift kit video and you'll understand why. It's a clearance issue
Love the build wes i cant spot watching vid. Im about to start work on my yak so ill probably have ton of questions lol. The mighty max im about to order a battery is that a marine battery and would it be worth getting a higher mill amp or not cause that seemed to give plenty of run time. Im in late 50s so i want to reduce my paddle time lol
It's a sealed lead acid battery, suitable for mounting in any position and perfect for marine applications.
I have the 55ah, and it's never got below 40% on me even after 8hr+ fishing days with nearly continuous use.