On a somewhat unrelated subject, I just did the slave cylinder seals on my lt77 yesterday and managed to break the plastic slave pushrod retainer, have a new one sitting in the shed but turns out fitting it is a bar steward and a half. Have you a tip for this? :) love the videos.
In the past I have put the clip on the push rod, then held it in place with a tube and dunked it in hot water to make the plastic more flexible - then push it into the fork
I can remember going into a BLMC dealers in Balham to buy a new layshaft for a Cooper S gearbox that had the same wear as yours. On apprenticeship wages it's something I still remember all those years ago. Gearbox parts have never been cheap though, although a lot more interesting to work on than engines.
@@BritannicaRestorations I just had a look at a dealers in Hertfordshire that specialise in Minis. They want £201 for the part I bought, all those years ago.
hello Mike, greetings from england, make sure that rear oil seal is replaced, ! the amount of times i have had leaking seals over the years is incredible,it all goes in to the transferbox and then you have to drain that to level.but great fun in the 70s, not really a good design.these series 3 g/boxes were not as good as the 2a boxes ie not as strong,
my S3 box leaks a fair bit, but changes fine, and no nasty noise, except in reverse, where there a nasty worn bearing sound, I assume it's the bearing in the gear. the actual gear lever is a soppy floppy as well, I assume it should spring back to a neutral position, but it does not, no idea what that is though, hope you that later on!
Sloppy feel is usually down to a loose or worn grub screw in the side of the gear stick pivot, allowing the stick to rotate instead of pivot. Reverse gear a,ways is noisy on these units because they have straight cut teeth, not helical like all the forward gears. It is the reverse gears that are damaged on the lay shaft in these videos, and they are engaged with the idler gear which then engages on the teeth outside the 1st/2nd synchro, which is the bright shiny assembly Mike said looks like was replaced (I agree, definitely new). That noise is normal. Any bearing issue other than on the small reverse idler gear would manifest in forward motion too. These boxes always sweat a bit through the selector shaft seals and the detent spring covers, but shouldn’t lose much. It was common for LR not to bother with the bearing seating compound fitting the main shaft bearing to the carrier and the carrier to the main casing. With that compound (not dissimilar to threadlock) missing, they leak oil into the transfer box quite quickly, causing low oil in the gear box and an over-full transfer box. More SIIIs are like that than not.
Mike, if the reverse idler gear has a plain bush, it is suffix A. B and onwards have a needle bearing. If the dog teeth on third gear and the pinion have recessed flats and the dog teeth of the 3rd/4th synchro hub are coffin shaped, then it is suffix D, but if they are all plain and parallel sided, it is C or earlier. That is important for ordering parts, as the D lay shaft, pinion, 3rd gear and 3/4 synchro are incompatible with earlier units, and the A reverse gear and pin are not interchangeable with later or vice versa (can’t retrofit later pin as it won’t fit the casing). I have a factory recon suffix E, which is a suffix A (plain bush reverse and pin) with suffix D lay shaft, pinion and main shaft parts. It can get confusing…
@@BritannicaRestorations so was mine, with a glued on tag one the bell housing denoting it a suffix E. At this age, there is no way of knowing what the internals will be until you see them (except the reverse idler) - it wasn’t just the DIY owner/repairer that fit different suffix parts to reused casings.
Most of the parts are still availible. a few years back i needed to use a couple of webshops to get it all sorted. the layshaft i dont know.. i did not dare to replace this one due to the cost. and worry that i needed to replace all the other gears as well. and with the selector, indeed dont filldle with it to much. they are a nightmare to get them back together when they fall apart. not to meantion the challange of finding all the little bearings that fly out of it ;-)
again with aquestion. On my Disco 2 TD5 2002 Model the ECU dont send voltage to the Alternator(new) so the result is the Alternator dont load the Battery Do you know where I can get Infos about the ECU (Drawing etc) ? Best regards Axel
I love your videos saved me countless hours of haynes manual reading on my Discovery 200tdi, you sound like you have a local accent for me? do you come from North Yorkshire originally? keep up the videos. Finn - Whitby North Yorkshire.
I'm gonna check my series 3 see if it has a filler cap!
On a somewhat unrelated subject, I just did the slave cylinder seals on my lt77 yesterday and managed to break the plastic slave pushrod retainer, have a new one sitting in the shed but turns out fitting it is a bar steward and a half. Have you a tip for this? :) love the videos.
In the past I have put the clip on the push rod, then held it in place with a tube and dunked it in hot water to make the plastic more flexible - then push it into the fork
I can remember going into a BLMC dealers in Balham to buy a new layshaft for a Cooper S gearbox that had the same wear as yours. On apprenticeship wages it's something I still remember all those years ago. Gearbox parts have never been cheap though, although a lot more interesting to work on than engines.
New layshaft is about £100 - not too bad
@@BritannicaRestorations I just had a look at a dealers in Hertfordshire that specialise in Minis. They want £201 for the part I bought, all those years ago.
Back in the day, we were buying minis for £50 with a bit of test on them, if they were worth it, get a new test on them and flog 'em, off for £100
hello Mike, greetings from england, make sure that rear oil seal is replaced, ! the amount of times i have had leaking seals over the years is incredible,it all goes in to the transferbox and then you have to drain that to level.but great fun in the 70s, not really a good design.these series 3 g/boxes were not as good as the 2a boxes ie not as strong,
Rear seal was rock hard - never changed
my S3 box leaks a fair bit, but changes fine, and no nasty noise, except in reverse, where there a nasty worn bearing sound, I assume it's the bearing in the gear. the actual gear lever is a soppy floppy as well, I assume it should spring back to a neutral position, but it does not, no idea what that is though, hope you that later on!
Yes, we will look at this box later
Sloppy feel is usually down to a loose or worn grub screw in the side of the gear stick pivot, allowing the stick to rotate instead of pivot.
Reverse gear a,ways is noisy on these units because they have straight cut teeth, not helical like all the forward gears. It is the reverse gears that are damaged on the lay shaft in these videos, and they are engaged with the idler gear which then engages on the teeth outside the 1st/2nd synchro, which is the bright shiny assembly Mike said looks like was replaced (I agree, definitely new). That noise is normal. Any bearing issue other than on the small reverse idler gear would manifest in forward motion too.
These boxes always sweat a bit through the selector shaft seals and the detent spring covers, but shouldn’t lose much. It was common for LR not to bother with the bearing seating compound fitting the main shaft bearing to the carrier and the carrier to the main casing. With that compound (not dissimilar to threadlock) missing, they leak oil into the transfer box quite quickly, causing low oil in the gear box and an over-full transfer box. More SIIIs are like that than not.
Mike, if the reverse idler gear has a plain bush, it is suffix A. B and onwards have a needle bearing. If the dog teeth on third gear and the pinion have recessed flats and the dog teeth of the 3rd/4th synchro hub are coffin shaped, then it is suffix D, but if they are all plain and parallel sided, it is C or earlier. That is important for ordering parts, as the D lay shaft, pinion, 3rd gear and 3/4 synchro are incompatible with earlier units, and the A reverse gear and pin are not interchangeable with later or vice versa (can’t retrofit later pin as it won’t fit the casing).
I have a factory recon suffix E, which is a suffix A (plain bush reverse and pin) with suffix D lay shaft, pinion and main shaft parts. It can get confusing…
Casing is marked suffix A
@@BritannicaRestorations so was mine, with a glued on tag one the bell housing denoting it a suffix E. At this age, there is no way of knowing what the internals will be until you see them (except the reverse idler) - it wasn’t just the DIY owner/repairer that fit different suffix parts to reused casings.
following with interest, I've got my own Series box to do sometime! Thanks
Go for it!
Most of the parts are still availible. a few years back i needed to use a couple of webshops to get it all sorted. the layshaft i dont know.. i did not dare to replace this one due to the cost. and worry that i needed to replace all the other gears as well. and with the selector, indeed dont filldle with it to much. they are a nightmare to get them back together when they fall apart. not to meantion the challange of finding all the little bearings that fly out of it ;-)
I know at one point you could not get the synchros - seems the layshaft is about C$200
again with aquestion. On my Disco 2 TD5 2002 Model the ECU dont send voltage to the Alternator(new) so the result is the Alternator dont load the Battery Do you know where I can get Infos about the ECU (Drawing etc) ? Best regards Axel
Email me and I will send a manual
I love your videos saved me countless hours of haynes manual reading on my Discovery 200tdi, you sound like you have a local accent for me? do you come from North Yorkshire originally? keep up the videos. Finn - Whitby North Yorkshire.
Guisborough!
@@BritannicaRestorations brilliant, my uncle lives on Enfield Chase in Guisborough, small world!!
I'm surprised the rear gear has less damage compared to the layshaft. You would think the layshaft is sacrificial part.
Looks like someone has been in before and replaced the cheaper parts
That gear on the layshaft isn't looking good. Surprised that someone put it back in like that! Cost probably.
My thoughts exactly