This video is not new, but I figured I'd give everyone some advice since things have changed prices a lot recently, 460$ and no core from Detroit axle, they road simulator test it before you get it, and the core can be sent in to get a lifetime warranty. No paying for the core beforehand, just if you don't turn it in, you get no warranty.
Thank you for this video. I successfully replaced my rack and pinion in my 2010 this weekend (in the Michigan cold!) thanks in part to your video. Some advice for those coming after me, regarding how tight it is getting the old unit out (and the new one in): As this video makes clear, it causes a lot of additional trouble to lower the subframe beyond the chassis studs that hold it in place. Lowering it in such a fashion will certainly create additional clearance for removing/inserting the rack and pinion (and trust me, you *will* be frustrated enough to be tempted to do this), but the additional headache is not worth it. Try this instead: 1. Loosen all (4) subframe corners (21mm nut) as William Greenlee showed. 2. Lower the rear half of the subframe as much as possible without going beyond the studs. Keep a floor jack under there to prevent it from going too far, as William Greenlee showed. I lowered mine such that about 1/2" of the studs remained inside the bushing, and no more. 3. The engine roll restrictor must already by detached, if you haven't detached it already. The entire engine/trasaxle will rotate quite freely, as it is floating on its engine mounts which are on opposite sides of each other, near each strut tower. 4. Then, with another floor jack, position it near the front of the engine, close to where the oil filter is. 5. If you jack upward in this area, against the oil pan (which is an aluminum casting), the front of the engine will roll upward, and the rear of the engine will roll downward. Obviously do this gently, with rags/cushion to protect the engine, but as you can see in this video, and as I mentioned, when the roll restrictor is detached, the engine rolls very easily. You could presumably do this with another person simply pushing by hand and tying it off with some rope material. 6. Doing the above will create significant additional space for the old rack and pinion to be removed, which of course is the same additional space needed for the new rack and pinion to go in. I did this after struggling trying to remove the old unit on the driver side. Once I rolled the engine, it easily added another 1" of clearance and the R&P came out fairly easily.
Mann I been putting it off all summer because I thought i would have to drop the whole subframe. Well wish me luck I will have power steering once again
joshua wrzesinski mine went out the other night, you can unhook your battery and it will come back on. Probably still needs the rack and pinion replaced. But that’s just a get by till you can get it fixed antidote.
Ford Dealership priced me $2600 to replace rack. I done it myself with the help of your video. I'm no mechanic and took less than 3 hours with no lift. That's definitely not a $2600 job.
Thanks for the tip about the recall/warranty. The dealer just agreed to replace my steering on my 2011 Fusion. You saved me a lot of money and time, as I was planning to do this repair. You're video was well done, and although I didn't need to do the job, I would have been able to proceed with the help of your tips. Keep up the great work!
Just did this on mine thanks for the video! It was a life saver!! Also used the "rock the engine back" technique to get the old one out and the new one in without going past the frame bolts!!
Thanks for the video, you inspired me to try this job at home. Its much easier with 2 people. I removed the rack from the drivers side, but replaced it from the passenger side. It went in much essier. The job took about 4 hours in total.
Chris Howells hey man are you experienced with stuff like this? My wife's fusion is starting to act up and I was thinking about trying it myself to save some cash
Thanks for the video. Replacing mine tomorrow. Recall replacement lasted less than 2 years. Now since recall replacements do not have a warranty I have to pay $2800 or do it myself. The dealer can take that $2800 estimate and shove it
Thank you for the video, If you can do this on a lift, you don't have to take the exhaust out, but its a two man job to work the steering gear back and forth as you get it past the exhaust, than transmission, and then through the unibody. This video was very helpful otherwise, as I have never removed this. I appreciate people that help the community like this.
2010 w/2.5 L 4 cylinder, Thank you Will for direction. ****** read past notes also helped me people. I was able to reach bolts w/ long extension , wire plugs and U-clamp with a 4" grinder from top side, I used 2 floor jacks BUT found that if the motor is loose you can manipulate it to your advantage, in the end I only had the front passengers side 21mm nut on and loose to the end of threads, Note to self "if was tough to pull out". I might drop the under carriage. If you lift it straight up it might not bind. If you loosen under carriage first you would have more room to work.
Thanks for this! We will be replacing ours too. Dealer quote was $1600 for anyone interested. You should consider MAPP gas in the yellow bottle. It's comparably hot as oxyacetylene and WAY hotter than propane. It's the most affordable red hot wrench that actually works. Propane doesn't do much, especially on bigger steel parts.
Thank you, took me about 5 hours with a brake job thrown in. Monday ill have it aligned and programmed at Les Schwabs. The steering shaft has a boot around it that comes off , I fought for awhile to get it in the hole and figured out that big gasket comes off.
Thanks again for your video brother!! Probably only actually took me 4 hours last 2 days. But I'd a never tackled it without this video. Appreciate it so much! !!
I do these racks in about an hour on my lift but I’ve been a mechanic for 30 years gotta say I’d never Reccomended working on a car in Sandles but when your a hick in Michigan I guess that’s the norm?? Anyway I love watching inexperienced people working on their cars it’s extremely entertaining to me. I will give credit the kid got it done so kudos to him.
so vito question for you sir... does the rack have to be flashed ? i saw someone on a dif video unhook the battery prior to removal/install and after install rehook battery and all was well... is this an actual necessary step or no?
I have had a few that had to be programmed and some that haven’t but it’s a fairly simple process even with the autel scanner which is a fairly inexpensive one. It seems to me that getting the used ones from salvage yards usually didn’t need it but brand new did. Hope this helps
Ford quoted me $1900 to fix the rack, paid $365 for a rebuilt one can’t remember the name of where I purchased it but was off the internet. You don’t have to remove the flex pipe. thankfully I kept the sub frame inside the studs, took about 8hrs start to finish. Started it and it feels good, some reason my advanced Track is still chiming on the cluster as well as my check brakes. But I have power steering again lol, My son whose 11 hung out and helped me so it was great for him and I, Main plug on the rack with the red tab I feel like it isn’t all the way in gonna check in the am. Otherwise happy!! Thanks again for the video boss saved me a ton
Went to the junk lkq by my house,took one out for $26😂 and installed on my 2012 mkz hybrid and reprogrammed it with ford latest calibration using the ford IDS software with j2534 tool and only took me 1 hour and even updated my pcm and EPAS ecm,ask me how and I will tell.there is a lot of this rack in the junk yard
I've got a rack that's not electronic... I have a 17mm banjo bolt that needs to torqued back down. Any idea what the spec is for that one? Also, is the two big subframe nuts up front (21mm) that you loosened but not fully removed also 111 ft lbs?
Great video. Very helpful. Just pulled mine out and waiting for a second hand unit I purchased off eBay. I have a 2010 Fusion and ran the vin and found it has 3 recalls, one of them requires flashing the computer, so I'm hoping when it goes in for those I get a free flash for the rack too.
Wasn't too bad at all. One thing they didn't cover was removing the metal shield over the wires. It's something easier to do after you have the rack ready to come out. mainly because you have to turn it a little to reach the back screw. I also found it only comes out the passenger side as he stated in the video. You have to turn it and lift the end of the rack a little as it comes out - takes a bit of fiddling but it comes out. Putting the new one in wasn't too bad either - just take your time - and you definitely need to drop that sub frame a good ways. I loosened the front subframe nuts first as far as seemed reasonable, and then I lowered the rear subframe - the rear bolts were just about out of the holes but not all the way because then it's a bit more of a hassle to get it back in place as this guy stated. I did have to use the 2x4 trick to force the rear subframe down far enough - I just kept the jack under it so I wouldn't force it down too far. The electrical connector has a plastic clip that keeps it in place - you have to fiddle with it to get it disconnected. If you're not in a big hurry to do the job it goes along pretty smoothly. I also have another rack if you're interested in buying it let me know. For some reason I ended up with two racks delivered - $170 per rack. The used rack seemed to work just fine for me. Didn't reprogram it either.
After making the replacement of the rack and pinion I have to take it to the ford so that they install some program so that it works? or can I just do it with a scanner like the autozone? or the rack and pinion will start working immediately?
The rack and pinion fits multiple vehicles, it does not necessarily come with the proper programming for YOUR vehicle. There is a note that comes in the box that says the module should be flashed BEFORE driving. Mine worked no problem, but I still took it to Ford to make sure it had the right module programming. And no I would take it to Ford only for this, Autozone only has code scanners, not OEM flashing tools.
Very grateful for your video today! Hoping I have no codes afterwards. Looks like with your 4" subframe drop "accident" it may have been *needed* with the fighting of getting the new one in?
It's a recall that's covered up to 10 years or 150,000 miles. Whichever comes first. They won't do anything about it if you're over that amount of miles
@@joshking5864389951 it's been a thing since 2015. They're only for certain Fusions and Lincoln MKZ hybrids that came out in 2012. If your car was manufactured in Mexico, your car should be able to qualify.
I heard its power steering motor that fails power steering in fusion 2012 models.Can someone tell me where this motor sits? My steering fails occasionally and resurrects on several restarts. What can be the problem.
Complete "Failure Of Power Steering Assist" on my 2012 Fusion SEL AWD (46,000 mi) as identified on dashboard message. The wheel won't even turn! Hard as a rock! I bought this car exactly 2 weeks ago! Called Ford about the "Field Service Actions" listed on their site when I registered my car VIN#. "The EPAS Steering Efforts Action" is #15N01. Ford told me at that time there was a 50% chance of this failure but that I was covered for 10 years from 2012 or 100,000 mi. (WCF). I plan to call the Dealer and have my car towed tomorrow. It is completely un- drivable. I'm sick about this! What should I tell the Dealer? Would appreciate anyone's advice. Thank you all! Subscribed
I paid my 2012 Ford Fusion off and the very next day I got this issue! Literally the very next day. My uncle (a mechanic) put me on a new rack and pinion thing, drove it for 5 minutes and it started doing the same exact thing!!! Talk about wasted money! I have no idea what the issue is. So frustrating. My dealership had a car tracker in my car which they have not removed yet so I’m wondering if that’s triggering something.
My 2011 Ford Fusion starts making like grinding scratching noises when it’s a hot day outside. Would it be because I need to change out what your doing now?
Doubt you see this... but I have the same exact car. Dealer diagnostic says I need a new steering gear (internal fault is all they say) but I have the SAME EXACT cluster messages and problems. What’s the difference between the steering gear and rack & pinion? Steering gear much more expensive everywhere I look :/
If you have this exact same issue with your car, the steering gear vs. rack & pinion question is irrelevant. You will only be able to replace it with an electric rack & pinion. Older vehicles and trucks have steering gears.
2012 ford fusion, have seen the advancetrac and power steering assist fault pop up in the last week. It rattles when idling, turning, accelerating. I don't have problems with the steering though. It's just loud. Mechanic said needs new engine. Can power steering problems cause noise, but not handling issues?
Where is the sensor that controls the rack and pinion and the power supply sensor to controls the rack and pinion where's it located at on the car on the motor could you please show me the exact spot on a 2010 Mercury Milan thank you. My name is Dwayne.
Very important to make sure: 1-the car is NEVER driven with a flat tire on the front (aka don't drive with a flat to a tire shop, get it towed) and 2-power down the electronic power steering system before doing any shock loading to the front end components, such as hammering out ball joints. I knew this, but the shop who did the ball joints on my father's car did not and the power steering completely failed a few days after they worked on it.
@@WilliamGreenleeI had a tire on the front passenger side split and aused damage to the outer CV joint boot after removing the axle to replace the boot I had to do some hammering and when I drove the car to work and back home the alarm went off and the message came up on the screen 2 different messages the last one says service power steering now definitely it happened after the right front axle repair happened.
In this video I was wondering if he could just change the rack motor and save time to still get good results? I watched a video of a guy repairing racks and it looked a lot quicker and easier then doing all that.
Uhh I think I talked about it at the end of the video. You are supposed to program it to the car. BUT, depending on which vehicle the remanufactured rack and pinion came out of, it may just work out of the box. Mine worked, but I took it to the dealer anyways and they told the the software was already correct for the car, and all they did was change the VIN in the rack to now be for a Fusion.
They told me that mine only needed a software reflash until it was out of the warranty extension, then it needed a new rack and wanted $1800 installed. No thanks!
@@reanactor13 Yes it is. I talk about it near the end of the video. What I was told is that you do not need to program it if the steering rack came from a similar enough vehicle (these remanufactured units), apparently mine was, but yours might not be and you could be stranded until someone programs it. I've not yet heard of that happening to someone though.
Mine just went out completely and if I want to get the non remanned one it's 1200 with a 500 dollar core.... the remaned was around about half that so I'm basically in it either 900 or 1700... I hate it, it's an expense I can't really afford with my first baby on the way 🎉🎉
I didnt have to flash mine... also I found it easier to drop the passenger side of the sub frame and just loosen the driver side enough to wiggle across to the passenger side
Hard to say, totally depends. But my video is very thorough, I recommend watching it all the way through and making sure you have all the tools you'll need and such and make your best guess.
@@WilliamGreenlee Thank you very much! your video was extremely well put together I really appreciate that thanks for sharing and helping others, God bless!
@marcuslgelite2 - Recently, I got my first POWER STEERING ASSIST FAILURE message on my 2011 Ford Fusion, and when I called FORD MOTORS they told me according to my VIN#, my particular Fusion was not part of the 2015 recall because it was built at a different location from the other 2011 Fusions that were recalled! I don't get it! My car is the same year, and model and has the exact issue described in the 2015 recall but Ford is unwilling to fix my car without charge! I was quoted by the dealership over $2K to replace the steering rack in order to solve the problem.
@@kevinp8108 I replaced my steering rack by myself and it was much easier than I expected after watching a few videos on youtube. I saved myself probably $1,500. However I did still have to take my car up to a license ford dealer and they had too I believe "flash" was the term they used they essentially had to hook up my car and sync the electronic rack and pinion with the car's computer since it is not hydraulic. That cost me I think about $120
Jose Pina hard to say. I worked on it after work, on and off, for about 2 weeks. Then again I didn’t have a video like this to help me. I tried to include everything in the video so you’ll just have to watch it and make your best guess. I’d probably be wary of attempting it in one weekend. Don’t forget to add an alignment and computer flash at the end.
William Greenlee thanks! I just finished replacing one in a 2016 Taurus, I did it in 2.5 hours because I didn't have to loosen the subframe bolts or the down pipe
The Taurus's may be different, but the electric racks risk not working at all when they are first installed. Hopefully it will and you'll be able to drive it to the dealer and you'd tell them a new rack was installed and needs to be flashed.
I have a question about flashing after the install. You said after installing your new gear, it worked when you started the car, before driving it? The dealer is telling me the car needs scanned before the gear is changed, then flashed again after the new gear is installed. I'm wondering why the car needs scanned before the installation of the new part. I don't see why I can't just change it, then drive to the dealer even if it doesn't work, and have them flash it then?
Yes DON'T replace the rack yourself if there is recall on it. BUT, the 2010 models were not included in the recall. Also, eventually racks can fail for other reasons and someone might want to do it themselves.
Ford sucks they said my solenoid was out and wanted 1800 to fix. I end up buying a $300 transmission instead as encouraged by tranny shop. My buddy threw it in and i ford reprogram it. Afterwards the steering light pop on now they said rack and pin, wanted over 1500 to fix it. Instead found one at savage yard for 100.00 and have to get alignment and programmed smdh. One big headache I don't know why they didn't see it in the solenoid diagnostic.
Do you think you could have bought a used one and replaced the electronic motor component like in this video... ruclips.net/video/K5lS5Ge5RBo/видео.html but while the rack is installed. Is there room to do that under the car? Anyone attempt this?
Interesting you say that, the 2012 service manual tells you to remove it from the passenger side, but 2010-11 it says do it from driver's side. Not sure why.
This video is not new, but I figured I'd give everyone some advice since things have changed prices a lot recently, 460$ and no core from Detroit axle, they road simulator test it before you get it, and the core can be sent in to get a lifetime warranty. No paying for the core beforehand, just if you don't turn it in, you get no warranty.
Awesome advice, thanks for posting!
Thank you for this video. I successfully replaced my rack and pinion in my 2010 this weekend (in the Michigan cold!) thanks in part to your video. Some advice for those coming after me, regarding how tight it is getting the old unit out (and the new one in):
As this video makes clear, it causes a lot of additional trouble to lower the subframe beyond the chassis studs that hold it in place. Lowering it in such a fashion will certainly create additional clearance for removing/inserting the rack and pinion (and trust me, you *will* be frustrated enough to be tempted to do this), but the additional headache is not worth it. Try this instead:
1. Loosen all (4) subframe corners (21mm nut) as William Greenlee showed.
2. Lower the rear half of the subframe as much as possible without going beyond the studs. Keep a floor jack under there to prevent it from going too far, as William Greenlee showed. I lowered mine such that about 1/2" of the studs remained inside the bushing, and no more.
3. The engine roll restrictor must already by detached, if you haven't detached it already. The entire engine/trasaxle will rotate quite freely, as it is floating on its engine mounts which are on opposite sides of each other, near each strut tower.
4. Then, with another floor jack, position it near the front of the engine, close to where the oil filter is.
5. If you jack upward in this area, against the oil pan (which is an aluminum casting), the front of the engine will roll upward, and the rear of the engine will roll downward. Obviously do this gently, with rags/cushion to protect the engine, but as you can see in this video, and as I mentioned, when the roll restrictor is detached, the engine rolls very easily. You could presumably do this with another person simply pushing by hand and tying it off with some rope material.
6. Doing the above will create significant additional space for the old rack and pinion to be removed, which of course is the same additional space needed for the new rack and pinion to go in.
I did this after struggling trying to remove the old unit on the driver side. Once I rolled the engine, it easily added another 1" of clearance and the R&P came out fairly easily.
That would have been great info to have, thanks for helping others!
What were the actual part numbers of everything you need for it? I have to do mine. And thank for writing the process out in your comment!
Mann I been putting it off all summer because I thought i would have to drop the whole subframe. Well wish me luck I will have power steering once again
🤮🤮🤮 this makes me weak. Just moved down to Orlando from Michigan a few days ago. Last night my power steering went out 😭😭
joshua wrzesinski mine went out the other night, you can unhook your battery and it will come back on. Probably still needs the rack and pinion replaced. But that’s just a get by till you can get it fixed antidote.
Ford Dealership priced me $2600 to replace rack. I done it myself with the help of your video. I'm no mechanic and took less than 3 hours with no lift. That's definitely not a $2600 job.
Just quoted 3000 from a dealer
It is a 3000 dollar job
Frankly it is whatever the mechanic says it is unless you're able to fix it
Thanks for the tip about the recall/warranty. The dealer just agreed to replace my steering on my 2011 Fusion. You saved me a lot of money and time, as I was planning to do this repair. You're video was well done, and although I didn't need to do the job, I would have been able to proceed with the help of your tips. Keep up the great work!
The Ford dealer refused to honor the recall on my 2012 Fusion, due to the mileage being over 150 thousand 🤬
What years was this? I have a 2006 Mercury Milan, same as Ford fusion. Was it only 2012 they covered?
I’m having this same problem now. This video was the best I’ve found. Thank you for the great information
Just did this on mine thanks for the video! It was a life saver!! Also used the "rock the engine back" technique to get the old one out and the new one in without going past the frame bolts!!
Thanks for the video, you inspired me to try this job at home. Its much easier with 2 people. I removed the rack from the drivers side, but replaced it from the passenger side. It went in much essier. The job took about 4 hours in total.
Chris Howells hey man are you experienced with stuff like this? My wife's fusion is starting to act up and I was thinking about trying it myself to save some cash
Will try that when my replacement gets in.
Thanks for the video. Replacing mine tomorrow. Recall replacement lasted less than 2 years. Now since recall replacements do not have a warranty I have to pay $2800 or do it myself. The dealer can take that $2800 estimate and shove it
agreed Found On Road Dead..F.O.R.D.
jdi358 $2800... $1850 installed at the dealership. You were over quoted
jdi358 I just had mine done on the recall for free and they quoted me 2 year unlimited mileage warranty 🤔
My dealer just told me 3,500 for the job no thank you
Thank you very much for this video. I was wondering what I was getting myself in to.
Thank you for the video, If you can do this on a lift, you don't have to take the exhaust out, but its a two man job to work the steering gear back and forth as you get it past the exhaust, than transmission, and then through the unibody. This video was very helpful otherwise, as I have never removed this. I appreciate people that help the community like this.
2010 w/2.5 L 4 cylinder, Thank you Will for direction. ****** read past notes also helped me people.
I was able to reach bolts w/ long extension , wire plugs and U-clamp with a 4" grinder from top side, I used 2 floor jacks BUT found that if the motor is loose you can manipulate it to your advantage, in the end I only had the front passengers side 21mm nut on and loose to the end of threads, Note to self "if was tough to pull out". I might drop the under carriage. If you lift it straight up it might not bind. If you loosen under carriage first you would have more room to work.
Para mi y mis compañeros, el mejor video, el mas completo y mejor camarografo. EXCELENTE. Felicidades.
You are welcome!
Thanks for this! We will be replacing ours too. Dealer quote was $1600 for anyone interested.
You should consider MAPP gas in the yellow bottle. It's comparably hot as oxyacetylene and WAY hotter than propane. It's the most affordable red hot wrench that actually works. Propane doesn't do much, especially on bigger steel parts.
Just spent $3000 for my 2014 gmc sierra electric rack and pinion gear wish i knew how to do it myself.
Your a beast for doing it with a lift!.
Been watching videos about this type of job for years fusion. By far the best video our there for the job at the moment.
Thank you, took me about 5 hours with a brake job thrown in. Monday ill have it aligned and programmed at Les Schwabs. The steering shaft has a boot around it that comes off , I fought for awhile to get it in the hole and figured out that big gasket comes off.
Thanks, I was wondering about that boot.
My goodness that's a lot of work, having the same problem as a senior people will take advantage of you.
Thanks again for your video brother!! Probably only actually took me 4 hours last 2 days. But I'd a never tackled it without this video. Appreciate it so much! !!
Works great!! No codes :)
Did you have to get it re program?
@@kingshaun2x id like to know the same
I do these racks in about an hour on my lift but I’ve been a mechanic for 30 years gotta say I’d never Reccomended working on a car in Sandles but when your a hick in Michigan I guess that’s the norm?? Anyway I love watching inexperienced people working on their cars it’s extremely entertaining to me. I will give credit the kid got it done so kudos to him.
uh thanks? lol
I guess your welcome?? 😁
so vito question for you sir... does the rack have to be flashed ? i saw someone on a dif video unhook the battery prior to removal/install and after install rehook battery and all was well... is this an actual necessary step or no?
I have had a few that had to be programmed and some that haven’t but it’s a fairly simple process even with the autel scanner which is a fairly inexpensive one. It seems to me that getting the used ones from salvage yards usually didn’t need it but brand new did. Hope this helps
my favorite part of this video(other than it being super helpful) was that when the torch was going closed caption called that noise applause
haha!
Ford quoted me $1900 to fix the rack, paid $365 for a rebuilt one can’t remember the name of where I purchased it but was off the internet. You don’t have to remove the flex pipe. thankfully I kept the sub frame inside the studs, took about 8hrs start to finish. Started it and it feels good, some reason my advanced Track is still chiming on the cluster as well as my check brakes. But I have power steering again lol, My son whose 11 hung out and helped me so it was great for him and I, Main plug on the rack with the red tab I feel like it isn’t all the way in gonna check in the am. Otherwise happy!! Thanks again for the video boss saved me a ton
Joe Rida you need to have the steering gear programmed... 8 hours??? Wow
It would be good if you could remember the name of the place as I can't find anywhere a rebuilt unit for $365.
Well done. I wouldn't have the patience anymore to do a job like this.
Great video. You don't need to take the muffler/bracket/bolt off. Just did it myself.
Went to the junk lkq by my house,took one out for $26😂 and installed on my 2012 mkz hybrid and reprogrammed it with ford latest calibration using the ford IDS software with j2534 tool and only took me 1 hour and even updated my pcm and EPAS ecm,ask me how and I will tell.there is a lot of this rack in the junk yard
What did you use to reprogram? Do you know if the torque sensor threshold can be changed?
Great video! Thanks! working on 2013 explorer very similar.
What service manual did you use and where did you get the rack from and brand of it?
I discussed parts at 35:30. The service manual I used was AllDataPro. I ordered almost all the parts from Rockauto.com.
hey great video! just fyi you did everything correctly but its is much easier to get it out and back in from the passenger side. Great Job!
What steps did you take to diagnose and make sure the rack and pinion was the issue?
I have a 2011 Ford Fusion my rack and pinion had the same problem I took it to the ford dealer and it was a recall got it fixed for free
When did you go to Ford
sir ?
2 months ago
I have a 2010 that went out today and somehow my wasn't on the list but other 2010's were.
Just took mine today, everything covered by the dealer due to the recall # 15S18
doing a 2012 focus rack tomorrow, thanks man!
I replaced mine under the recall then 2 years later it is broken again so now I am looking at doing this myself
same here man....
When I saw the time of this video, I knew it was trouble...and I love working on my own vehicles, but this is insane..
I've got a rack that's not electronic... I have a 17mm banjo bolt that needs to torqued back down. Any idea what the spec is for that one? Also, is the two big subframe nuts up front (21mm) that you loosened but not fully removed also 111 ft lbs?
Your video helped me pull that 30lbs baby out in the right angle.
Great to hear :)
Great video. Very helpful. Just pulled mine out and waiting for a second hand unit I purchased off eBay. I have a 2010 Fusion and ran the vin and found it has 3 recalls, one of them requires flashing the computer, so I'm hoping when it goes in for those I get a free flash for the rack too.
Hollywood4Fun hey there how did it go looks like I'll be doing the same lost all power assist today thankfully it happened in a parking lot
Wasn't too bad at all. One thing they didn't cover was removing the metal shield over the wires. It's something easier to do after you have the rack ready to come out. mainly because you have to turn it a little to reach the back screw. I also found it only comes out the passenger side as he stated in the video. You have to turn it and lift the end of the rack a little as it comes out - takes a bit of fiddling but it comes out. Putting the new one in wasn't too bad either - just take your time - and you definitely need to drop that sub frame a good ways. I loosened the front subframe nuts first as far as seemed reasonable, and then I lowered the rear subframe - the rear bolts were just about out of the holes but not all the way because then it's a bit more of a hassle to get it back in place as this guy stated. I did have to use the 2x4 trick to force the rear subframe down far enough - I just kept the jack under it so I wouldn't force it down too far. The electrical connector has a plastic clip that keeps it in place - you have to fiddle with it to get it disconnected. If you're not in a big hurry to do the job it goes along pretty smoothly. I also have another rack if you're interested in buying it let me know. For some reason I ended up with two racks delivered - $170 per rack. The used rack seemed to work just fine for me. Didn't reprogram it either.
@@Hollywood4Fun still have xtra rack 4 sale?
Yes - email me at Robhoski@Gmail.com @@kdogger61
Robhoski@Gmail.com
After making the replacement of the rack and pinion I have to take it to the ford so that they install some program so that it works? or can I just do it with a scanner like the autozone? or the rack and pinion will start working immediately?
The rack and pinion fits multiple vehicles, it does not necessarily come with the proper programming for YOUR vehicle. There is a note that comes in the box that says the module should be flashed BEFORE driving. Mine worked no problem, but I still took it to Ford to make sure it had the right module programming. And no I would take it to Ford only for this, Autozone only has code scanners, not OEM flashing tools.
Very grateful for your video today! Hoping I have no codes afterwards.
Looks like with your 4" subframe drop "accident" it may have been *needed* with the fighting of getting the new one in?
Where did you get the procedure steps & torque specs?!?
seems like this should be recalled work.
See video description.
It's a recall that's covered up to 10 years or 150,000 miles. Whichever comes first. They won't do anything about it if you're over that amount of miles
@@Mrsisterfister661 Again. See video description. That only applies to some vehicles.
Wyatt Blackwood since when. Mine literally just went out last night. And I’m under 150k
@@joshking5864389951 it's been a thing since 2015. They're only for certain Fusions and Lincoln MKZ hybrids that came out in 2012. If your car was manufactured in Mexico, your car should be able to qualify.
Doesn’t it have to be programmed with ford ids software?
See 49:40
you have to reprogram? after you put a new one??
Thanks for making the video I’m having the same problem, where did you purchase the rack and how much did it cost?
$260 on rockauto.com. (core was another 240, you'll have to send the old one back via mail).
I ordered mine from city salvage $195 no core
Aaron Krider wher is that located
@@mzzyaya in Charlotte nc it's a junkyard basically
My 2012 fusion will say service power steering every couple days but when I turn it off then on again it will be fine. I dont know what the problem is
Do you solve the problem?
I heard its power steering motor that fails power steering in fusion 2012 models.Can someone tell me where this motor sits? My steering fails occasionally and resurrects on several restarts. What can be the problem.
Complete "Failure Of Power Steering Assist" on my 2012 Fusion SEL AWD (46,000 mi) as identified on dashboard message. The wheel won't even turn! Hard as a rock! I bought this car exactly 2 weeks ago! Called Ford about the "Field Service Actions" listed on their site when I registered my car VIN#. "The EPAS Steering Efforts Action" is #15N01. Ford told me at that time there was a 50% chance of this failure but that I was covered for 10 years from 2012 or 100,000 mi. (WCF). I plan to call the Dealer and have my car towed tomorrow. It is completely un- drivable. I'm sick about this! What should I tell the Dealer? Would appreciate anyone's advice. Thank you all! Subscribed
How much is the price of all your derrickson
I paid my 2012 Ford Fusion off and the very next day I got this issue! Literally the very next day. My uncle (a mechanic) put me on a new rack and pinion thing, drove it for 5 minutes and it started doing the same exact thing!!! Talk about wasted money! I have no idea what the issue is. So frustrating. My dealership had a car tracker in my car which they have not removed yet so I’m wondering if that’s triggering something.
@teawithbee4344 - what was the outcome of your issue?
Its the wheel alignment and the left and right rearward/haft front lower control arms.
Will this steering rack fit a ford explorer?
How did you center the rackin & pinion on the new one to the steering column.
See about 12:30 in my new video here: ruclips.net/video/I6eKI80nENI/видео.html
My 2011 Ford Fusion starts making like grinding scratching noises when it’s a hot day outside. Would it be because I need to change out what your doing now?
Or cv joints or ball joints are out?
Check out the Ford TSB 08-18-4 for front strut noise. A very common issue it seems. One they have not taken any accountability for of course.
where did you order your part, because 250 with the core is dope
Can't find at that price level anywhere !
Beards, Tech, & Tacos www.ebay.com/itm/For-Ford-Fusion-Lincoln-MKZ-2010-2011-2012-Power-Steering-Rack-And-Pinion/323704523831?fits=Year%3A2010%7CModel%3AFusion%7CSubmodel%3ASEL%7CEngine+-+Liter_Display%3A2.5L%7CMake%3AFord&epid=908060644&hash=item4b5e4b0c37:g:I7MAAOSwkCZcbyR7
@@justinheartcarson That link is for a hydraulic steering rack, not an electric rack like is in the video.
Doubt you see this... but I have the same exact car. Dealer diagnostic says I need a new steering gear (internal fault is all they say) but I have the SAME EXACT cluster messages and problems.
What’s the difference between the steering gear and rack & pinion? Steering gear much more expensive everywhere I look :/
If you have this exact same issue with your car, the steering gear vs. rack & pinion question is irrelevant. You will only be able to replace it with an electric rack & pinion. Older vehicles and trucks have steering gears.
William Greenlee thank you, I appreciate it
my vehicle had this recall work done. work had a warranty of 12 months...... 14 months later (today) its gunna cost me $2400 to fix.
Heard the Ford Fusion where recently recalled for a power steering problem
Some were recalled, early 2010 models were not. I added this to the video details.
2012 ford fusion, have seen the advancetrac and power steering assist fault pop up in the last week. It rattles when idling, turning, accelerating. I don't have problems with the steering though. It's just loud.
Mechanic said needs new engine. Can power steering problems cause noise, but not handling issues?
Where is the sensor that controls the rack and pinion and the power supply sensor to controls the rack and pinion where's it located at on the car on the motor could you please show me the exact spot on a 2010 Mercury Milan thank you. My name is Dwayne.
Same issue i have a mercury milan 2011 and i cant find where the power steering fluid goes
Can I get a new steering rack for the fusion 2012?
Try Rockauto.com
Very helpful info! I have the exact same issue with my lady's 2010. Sucks about the lack of recall >:(
Where did you purchase the replacement?
Yeah it's a major bummer. I purchased the replacement at Rockauto.com. A1Cardone reman unit. Save the box it comes in because their is a core charge!
My 2010 Milan crapped out on the way to work, not looking forward to driving back home. Still no recall on it .
How much would labor be ? For this vehicle without the Part ?
I do not know, but I know it was quite an expensive repair even without the rack cost.
Where did you buy the rack from for $250?
I don't remember it being that cheap, is that what I said? Then maybe. Rockauto.com. A1Cardon reman unit. Still working as of today.
Even after the job why do they have it where it needs to go back to the dealer for programming? That part sucks
do you have to reprogram this ?
So far my wife's '10 has been okay but I'm just dreading when this happens.
Very important to make sure: 1-the car is NEVER driven with a flat tire on the front (aka don't drive with a flat to a tire shop, get it towed) and 2-power down the electronic power steering system before doing any shock loading to the front end components, such as hammering out ball joints. I knew this, but the shop who did the ball joints on my father's car did not and the power steering completely failed a few days after they worked on it.
@@WilliamGreenleeI had a tire on the front passenger side split and aused damage to the outer CV joint boot after removing the axle to replace the boot I had to do some hammering and when I drove the car to work and back home the alarm went off and the message came up on the screen 2 different messages the last one says service power steering now definitely it happened after the right front axle repair happened.
Ugh I’m so sorry! Yes this can totally happen. It’s Ford giving the finger to their customer and I hate it.
Thx for the vid bud good job
How many hours did this take you?
Thanks yo. I want buy a ford fusion. Or anything with a electronic power steering.
Lol why would you want electric power steering? This isn’t a repair you should really have to do
what is the size of the dice plis
Where did you get the written instructions you were referring to?
AllData OEM repair data subscription
In this video I was wondering if he could just change the rack motor and save time to still get good results? I watched a video of a guy repairing racks and it looked a lot quicker and easier then doing all that.
The rack motor is part of the rack and pinion assembly and is not serviceable on its own unfortunately.
Could be your control arm to depends on if u here a cracking noise while actually driving the car.
I changed my rack and pinion yesterday and my wheel still hard to turn
You need to take it to the dealer to uave them program it
Does it have to be programmed?
See 49:30. Also see other peoples comments here. Technically you are supposed to flash it but it seems that most get away with not.
what brand and model number is your impact
But how did you program the new one to your car ?
Uhh I think I talked about it at the end of the video. You are supposed to program it to the car. BUT, depending on which vehicle the remanufactured rack and pinion came out of, it may just work out of the box. Mine worked, but I took it to the dealer anyways and they told the the software was already correct for the car, and all they did was change the VIN in the rack to now be for a Fusion.
how long did it take you
When you say no steering, does that mean no power assist or no steering at all?
No power assist. But it is so heavy it's dangerous to drive.
@@WilliamGreenlee I'm looking for a car for my daughter and I wanted this to be it. Unfortunately, this is a deal breaker. Way too dangerous.
why doesnt this apply to the 2012 model?
The service procedure I followed specified 2010-2011. It may very well be nearly identical to 2012 but I do not know.
They told me that mine only needed a software reflash until it was out of the warranty extension, then it needed a new rack and wanted $1800 installed. No thanks!
You didn't have to program the power steering unit ?
Just a question
@@reanactor13 Yes it is. I talk about it near the end of the video. What I was told is that you do not need to program it if the steering rack came from a similar enough vehicle (these remanufactured units), apparently mine was, but yours might not be and you could be stranded until someone programs it. I've not yet heard of that happening to someone though.
Just an answer.
@@WilliamGreenlee thank you for the just answer lmao 🤣
Where did you get the rack from ?
Rockauto
@@WilliamGreenlee thank you !
Can't believe prices have gone as high as they have, from Detroit Axle its $768 for a replacement.
😧
Mine just went out completely and if I want to get the non remanned one it's 1200 with a 500 dollar core.... the remaned was around about half that so I'm basically in it either 900 or 1700... I hate it, it's an expense I can't really afford with my first baby on the way 🎉🎉
My service traction warning light came on also
I have a 2012 ford fusion and it don’t say that on dash
Try holding the camera still for like.... 2 consecutive seconds please.
lol okay will try, hard to do retroactively, actually that was my roommate years ago
I didnt have to flash mine... also I found it easier to drop the passenger side of the sub frame and just loosen the driver side enough to wiggle across to the passenger side
you didnt have to flash? what year was yours?
I have a 2011 and I had this same issue just started yesterday, there is also no recall for this. About how long would you say this repair took you?
Hard to say, totally depends. But my video is very thorough, I recommend watching it all the way through and making sure you have all the tools you'll need and such and make your best guess.
@@WilliamGreenlee Thank you very much! your video was extremely well put together I really appreciate that thanks for sharing and helping others, God bless!
@marcuslgelite2 - Recently, I got my first POWER STEERING ASSIST FAILURE message on my 2011 Ford Fusion, and when I called FORD MOTORS they told me according to my VIN#, my particular Fusion was not part of the 2015 recall because it was built at a different location from the other 2011 Fusions that were recalled! I don't get it! My car is the same year, and model and has the exact issue described in the 2015 recall but Ford is unwilling to fix my car without charge! I was quoted by the dealership over $2K to replace the steering rack in order to solve the problem.
@@kevinp8108
I replaced my steering rack by myself and it was much easier than I expected after watching a few videos on youtube. I saved myself probably $1,500. However I did still have to take my car up to a license ford dealer and they had too I believe "flash" was the term they used they essentially had to hook up my car and sync the electronic rack and pinion with the car's computer since it is not hydraulic. That cost me I think about $120
@@marcuslgelite2 Thank you for the information!
Anyone know how to do this for hybird model?
Aman Deep that’s a good question. Did you sort out your problems?
There was a recall for those...suggest getting the recall fixed before those suckers break
I talk about this in the video. Not all model years were covered under the recall.
I have a 2010 fusion hybrid with 67000 miles on it and power steering went out. Hope its recalled
gnostic lost my power steering yesterday at 130k miles 2010 fusion hybrid.
My god, lower the sub-frame. In and out in about an hour
lol
Come help me then 😭😭
Holy rust batman where do you live on the planet Hoth?
Friggen Michigan man, the salt reclaims the cars.
Nice looking
How long did it take you to complete the job?
Jose Pina hard to say. I worked on it after work, on and off, for about 2 weeks. Then again I didn’t have a video like this to help me. I tried to include everything in the video so you’ll just have to watch it and make your best guess. I’d probably be wary of attempting it in one weekend. Don’t forget to add an alignment and computer flash at the end.
William Greenlee thanks! I just finished replacing one in a 2016 Taurus, I did it in 2.5 hours because I didn't have to loosen the subframe bolts or the down pipe
William Greenlee just call a ford dealer ad say I need a computer flash? I'm going to change the rack on my 2011 sho
The Taurus's may be different, but the electric racks risk not working at all when they are first installed. Hopefully it will and you'll be able to drive it to the dealer and you'd tell them a new rack was installed and needs to be flashed.
I have a question about flashing after the install. You said after installing your new gear, it worked when you started the car, before driving it? The dealer is telling me the car needs scanned before the gear is changed, then flashed again after the new gear is installed. I'm wondering why the car needs scanned before the installation of the new part. I don't see why I can't just change it, then drive to the dealer even if it doesn't work, and have them flash it then?
So, why would anybody do this themself when there is a recall on them? Ford is not going to reimburse you for the cost of the part or your time!
Yes DON'T replace the rack yourself if there is recall on it. BUT, the 2010 models were not included in the recall. Also, eventually racks can fail for other reasons and someone might want to do it themselves.
William Greenlee i have a 2010 also but my struts are bad also should I replace first than check rack and pinion?
@@WilliamGreenlee i got a 2011 ford fusion se' wheres the recal page?
@@abumannocchi8048 just call the local Ford dealer ship and make an appointment
It's only covered up to 150k miles. Mine failed at 210k, so by the time I knew this was even a common issue, it was too late.
You should invest in a good creeper.
right!! no wonder it took 2 weeks
Ford sucks they said my solenoid was out and wanted 1800 to fix. I end up buying a $300 transmission instead as encouraged by tranny shop. My buddy threw it in and i ford reprogram it. Afterwards the steering light pop on now they said rack and pin, wanted over 1500 to fix it. Instead found one at savage yard for 100.00 and have to get alignment and programmed smdh. One big headache I don't know why they didn't see it in the solenoid diagnostic.
Do you think you could have bought a used one and replaced the electronic motor component like in this video... ruclips.net/video/K5lS5Ge5RBo/видео.html but while the rack is installed. Is there room to do that under the car? Anyone attempt this?
Friggin Ford
It is much easier if you remove the rack from the passenger side
Interesting you say that, the 2012 service manual tells you to remove it from the passenger side, but 2010-11 it says do it from driver's side. Not sure why.
cb7 4 life! lol