You need a catch can setup my dude, those breather filters are going to shoot oil droplets all over the engine bay. Otherwise this is an amazing setup.
Great video! Considering the cost of the setup you have is very enticing. Definitely worth it. Hope to see more vids in the future and thank you again for the video
The secondary throttle plates can help alot during the low end air modulation in order to avoid a lean spot condition due to very reluctant acceleration enrichment. It's a bit of a fiddly issue to set this up with your standalone but in fact manages to deliver better low end driveability which is an issue with all the ITB's. Also staged injection of a GSXR ITB's is essential for WOT enrichment and delivers stable AFR during high velocity stream.
If you could add a solenoid to the second set of butterflies you could probably install a small motor to open it slowly as rpms rise to have better lowend torque while still being able to breathe in upper rpms
Thanks for the idea man! You inspired me to mess around with using a stepper motor to actuate the secondary butterflies. Much cheaper than buying a Suzuki stva. I'll be sure to post a video in the future once I've worked on it some more
That tick is crud stuck in the hydraulic lifters. Give them a good cleaning, then there’s no more tick. Had the same sound with my MX6 about 15 years ago. Cleaned the garbage out, and never heard another sound out of the lifters.
Hi to anyone reading this. I'm doing something similar on a BMW M52 i6. The BMW engine likes vacuum in the crank case apparently. If you wanted to run the crank to vacuum how would you go about doing it? You can't connect to a single runner like you/he did with the brake booster as it's an open system so you're introducing a vacuum leak. I think the 3mm hoses on the gsxr ITBs are fine for Map or fuel reg but too weedy to vent the crank case. If I add a plenum I could tap into that but I wouldn't create much vacuum there (non under boost, however I'm not likely to do this) and unless a catch can worked really well my ITBs would get all messy. I'm a little stumped on this one. Thoughts appreciated.
Sounds like an awesome project! I hadn't considered my fpr/brake booster lines being an open system, but it makes sense. Strange that I haven't had any issues though. It's been awhile since I posted a video, but I've routed my crank case ports into a catch/breather can, and said can seems to hold vacuum. I'm not entirely sure what the vacuum level is, but it definitely makes the RPM rise if I open the can, so I'd assume its achieving vacuum. Wouldn't that work find for your situation? It'd be isolated from your ITB vacuum lines as well, so I doubt they'd get 'messy'. Not too familiar with m52's, sorry if I'm missing something obvious.
@@toomanymiatas hi there. Sorry I wasn't clear, I believe it would only be an issue running the crank case vent into a single runner. Brake booster should be fine as it will only let extra air into the single runner immediately after pressing the brakes, so unless you dab a brakes a lot then open the throttle I don't think you would notice (this is all assumption). So does you catch can plumb into the skinny 3mm gsxr vacuum hoses? This seems like the easiest option, I just wasn't sure if they are big enough for the job. Many thanks
@@richardschofield2201 My catch can is plumbed directly into the valve cover/crank case, since there are two ports on it stock for me., and my catch can has a breather port for ventilation. I'm not too familiar with your engine, so I wasn't sure if your valve covers have breather ports - if they do, just route those into a catch can. It's all entirely separate from the throttle body vacuum system. Might be wrong to do it this way but It's been working okay for me so far.
3D printing injector plugs seems like a cool idea. But I think you could try out the dual injection feature on the Speeduino. Secondary injection should add some horses to the top end.
I feel like I won't really need the secondary injectors when it's NA, but that's definitely something I want to experiment with in the future once it's boosted! It'll be interesting to see how much boost I can get away with on stock injectors + gsxr injectors.
For your Tach output.... there are 2 different toyota coils types. Four and three pin. The fourth pin is a tach output signal you cane use :) I drove it 6 years with this coils no issues
I didn't know there were 3 pin types, good to know! My coils are of the 4 pin type - main issue I ran into was not getting the correct tach reading on my cluster. My ECU always read the correct tach reading, but the cluster doubled the rpm reading if all 4 coils tach outputs were in series. With one coils tach output wired in series, the reading on the cluster is 1/4th, rather than double, with the ECU still reading the correct RPM. Really odd behavior, feels like I was missing something obvious ha
@@toomanymiatas Hi, if I remember correctly (it was 4 years ago when I replaced it) I had used a pullup resistor in the wiring harness to get the correct speedometer signal. The ECU gets the signal from the engine speed trigger. Since I drive with the VAG coils I have my cluster the values from the ECU via the speedometer output forwarded.
@@ferox1183 I actually tried a bunch of different pullup resistors, since none of them really seemed to change anything. I might revisit it in the future, but since my ECU is still reading the correct rpm I'm just going with a pi dash.
Anyone tried the bolt on boots from gsxr1000? I have a spare manifold and dan st has a blank flange. I'm convinced it could be done with no welding, and reusing the bike injectors
That's definitely an option! You'd be going from tuned port injection ( I think that's the right term ) to throttle body injection by doing so, and you'd no longer have the injectors firing over the valves to cool them, but I'm not sure how detrimental any of that would be. I've been prototyping an intake manifold with stock 1.6 injector holes and fuel rail mounts with runners at the correct angle/spacing to adapt to the GSXR ITB's with no welding required, so that'll be an option soon enough too!
It's actually super simple on a Miata! I wired the AFR gauge/wideband controllers signal wire into the stock AFR gauge signal wire, which on an NA6 pnp unit is already plugging directly into the Speeduino. Ground the wideband controller at the ECU, and grab 12v from the ECU. It'll help with sensor readings. Then you've just gotta calibrate the sensor under Tools -> Calibrate AFR, and choose the gauge you bought in the drop down menu or put in your own calibration if yours isn't listed there. To get it to show up on the dashboard, right click the gauge -> snesor inputs -> AFR 1
It's possible, but you'll have to make a couple more things to get it to work. You'd need to make an adapter for the stock narrowband TPS to mount on the ITB's, and you'd need to make a plenum box with an adapter for your MAF. Plus youd probably need to mount your IAC onto said plenum box. VALCISAW on youtube did something similar. Give it a shot man!
I actually forgot to throw that in the dropbox, but I'll make sure to do that now, my bad guys! Here's the pinout that I ended up using ; www.dropbox.com/s/2pp58h2swunk60c/GSXR%20750%20Pinout.png?dl=0 www.locostbuilders.co.uk/viewthread.php?tid=34956 Uploaded to dropbox just in case that forum ever ends up going down.
Hey amazing video, I don't know if you mentioned it, probably didn't listed to it, but how many horses did you made with the itbs? And a boring question haha how's your mile per gallon with them?
Hey mate, you should try and get the catch can soon if you have not already done so. Having the breather just above your hot exhaust manifold is a recipe for disaster.
Thanks for the concerns! I hadn't actually considered that when I originally installed the breather. I've installed a catch can already, but an easy solution would've been to use the stock hard line/vaccum line and just route the breather to the left side of the engine bay.
I don't think OEM GSXR injectors would be capable of methane, but it'd be pretty easy to convert those injectors to an AEM meth injection kit, or even natural gas injectors. That'd definitely be a fun project in the future, thanks for the idea!
I'd recommend 750's, 1000's, or 1300's. Same bore spacing on both, but the 1300's are have a larger diameter by 2m, and you can respace them easier iirc.
by cpu do you mean ecu? They do not. You are able to, if using the original air flow meter. However this adds a large restriction, taking away many benefits from ITBs.
They're generic Toyota COP's. I honestly don't remember the exact car/year that I grabbed them off of, but I've got a video on my channel that goes into more detail.
There are horsepower gains to be had if you have complimenting mods, like cams, bore/stroke'd block, etc. Fundamentally ITB"s allow more air into the cylinder at a faster rate and a better control of the airs velocity.
Hey man, I really hope you're ok. I bought the 3D-printed bracket from you on eBay and it's been almost 3 months with no response. I've emailed you three times. You don't seem like the kind of person to dupe people, also, your store has 100% positive feedback. I honestly hope everything is good bro.. This doesn't feel right as your channel has been dead lately too...
You got me frantically searching trying to replicate this setup, it is amazing!
You need a catch can setup my dude, those breather filters are going to shoot oil droplets all over the engine bay. Otherwise this is an amazing setup.
Great video! Considering the cost of the setup you have is very enticing. Definitely worth it. Hope to see more vids in the future and thank you again for the video
Thanks for the kind words man! More videos will be coming, for sure. If you've got anything specific you wanna see, feel free to let me know!
This set-up is awesome! I'm excited to see where it goes!
Nice! You can’t beat that gergling sound of the ITB’S
I know! I need to get a GoPro for some cabin footage of the sound. It's amazing
The secondary throttle plates can help alot during the low end air modulation in order to avoid a lean spot condition due to very reluctant acceleration enrichment. It's a bit of a fiddly issue to set this up with your standalone but in fact manages to deliver better low end driveability which is an issue with all the ITB's. Also staged injection of a GSXR ITB's is essential for WOT enrichment and delivers stable AFR during high velocity stream.
Any issues with overal pedal travel when you used the smaller diameter actuator?
Sweet conversion and it does sound awesome.
If you could add a solenoid to the second set of butterflies you could probably install a small motor to open it slowly as rpms rise to have better lowend torque while still being able to breathe in upper rpms
Thanks for the idea man! You inspired me to mess around with using a stepper motor to actuate the secondary butterflies. Much cheaper than buying a Suzuki stva. I'll be sure to post a video in the future once I've worked on it some more
That tick is crud stuck in the hydraulic lifters. Give them a good cleaning, then there’s no more tick. Had the same sound with my MX6 about 15 years ago. Cleaned the garbage out, and never heard another sound out of the lifters.
boosted ITBs? would be cool to see
How is it running with no massairflow sensor
Great video great content great explanation
Essentially exponential 😮
its just wonderful mods, i really love it, thanks sir
Hi to anyone reading this.
I'm doing something similar on a BMW M52 i6.
The BMW engine likes vacuum in the crank case apparently.
If you wanted to run the crank to vacuum how would you go about doing it?
You can't connect to a single runner like you/he did with the brake booster as it's an open system so you're introducing a vacuum leak.
I think the 3mm hoses on the gsxr ITBs are fine for Map or fuel reg but too weedy to vent the crank case.
If I add a plenum I could tap into that but I wouldn't create much vacuum there (non under boost, however I'm not likely to do this) and unless a catch can worked really well my ITBs would get all messy.
I'm a little stumped on this one. Thoughts appreciated.
Sounds like an awesome project!
I hadn't considered my fpr/brake booster lines being an open system, but it makes sense. Strange that I haven't had any issues though.
It's been awhile since I posted a video, but I've routed my crank case ports into a catch/breather can, and said can seems to hold vacuum. I'm not entirely sure what the vacuum level is, but it definitely makes the RPM rise if I open the can, so I'd assume its achieving vacuum.
Wouldn't that work find for your situation? It'd be isolated from your ITB vacuum lines as well, so I doubt they'd get 'messy'.
Not too familiar with m52's, sorry if I'm missing something obvious.
@@toomanymiatas hi there.
Sorry I wasn't clear, I believe it would only be an issue running the crank case vent into a single runner.
Brake booster should be fine as it will only let extra air into the single runner immediately after pressing the brakes, so unless you dab a brakes a lot then open the throttle I don't think you would notice (this is all assumption).
So does you catch can plumb into the skinny 3mm gsxr vacuum hoses? This seems like the easiest option, I just wasn't sure if they are big enough for the job.
Many thanks
@@richardschofield2201
My catch can is plumbed directly into the valve cover/crank case, since there are two ports on it stock for me., and my catch can has a breather port for ventilation.
I'm not too familiar with your engine, so I wasn't sure if your valve covers have breather ports - if they do, just route those into a catch can.
It's all entirely separate from the throttle body vacuum system. Might be wrong to do it this way but It's been working okay for me so far.
3D printing injector plugs seems like a cool idea. But I think you could try out the dual injection feature on the Speeduino. Secondary injection should add some horses to the top end.
I feel like I won't really need the secondary injectors when it's NA, but that's definitely something I want to experiment with in the future once it's boosted! It'll be interesting to see how much boost I can get away with on stock injectors + gsxr injectors.
For your Tach output.... there are 2 different toyota coils types. Four and three pin. The fourth pin is a tach output signal you cane use :) I drove it 6 years with this coils no issues
I didn't know there were 3 pin types, good to know! My coils are of the 4 pin type - main issue I ran into was not getting the correct tach reading on my cluster. My ECU always read the correct tach reading, but the cluster doubled the rpm reading if all 4 coils tach outputs were in series. With one coils tach output wired in series, the reading on the cluster is 1/4th, rather than double, with the ECU still reading the correct RPM. Really odd behavior, feels like I was missing something obvious ha
@@toomanymiatas Hi, if I remember correctly (it was 4 years ago when I replaced it) I had used a pullup resistor in the wiring harness to get the correct speedometer signal. The ECU gets the signal from the engine speed trigger. Since I drive with the VAG coils I have my cluster the values from the ECU via the speedometer output forwarded.
@@ferox1183 I actually tried a bunch of different pullup resistors, since none of them really seemed to change anything.
I might revisit it in the future, but since my ECU is still reading the correct rpm I'm just going with a pi dash.
Very helpful. I’m going down this road too. What year range gsxr tbs fit up?
Anyone tried the bolt on boots from gsxr1000? I have a spare manifold and dan st has a blank flange. I'm convinced it could be done with no welding, and reusing the bike injectors
That's definitely an option!
You'd be going from tuned port injection ( I think that's the right term ) to throttle body injection by doing so, and you'd no longer have the injectors firing over the valves to cool them, but I'm not sure how detrimental any of that would be.
I've been prototyping an intake manifold with stock 1.6 injector holes and fuel rail mounts with runners at the correct angle/spacing to adapt to the GSXR ITB's with no welding required, so that'll be an option soon enough too!
hay man how did you get the afr gauge to work with speeduino. the one i wont to buy has a built in wideband but not sure how to get a gauge to work
It's actually super simple on a Miata! I wired the AFR gauge/wideband controllers signal wire into the stock AFR gauge signal wire, which on an NA6 pnp unit is already plugging directly into the Speeduino. Ground the wideband controller at the ECU, and grab 12v from the ECU. It'll help with sensor readings.
Then you've just gotta calibrate the sensor under Tools -> Calibrate AFR, and choose the gauge you bought in the drop down menu or put in your own calibration if yours isn't listed there. To get it to show up on the dashboard, right click the gauge -> snesor inputs -> AFR 1
Doing this to a d16 civic. Thanks for the info!
It's probably a stupid question but is there any way I can do this exact setup but on stock ECU? Like tricking it somehow
It's possible, but you'll have to make a couple more things to get it to work. You'd need to make an adapter for the stock narrowband TPS to mount on the ITB's, and you'd need to make a plenum box with an adapter for your MAF. Plus youd probably need to mount your IAC onto said plenum box.
VALCISAW on youtube did something similar. Give it a shot man!
@@toomanymiatas thanks dude really appreciate it!!
gsxr 750 throttle bodies are what is used for the mx5 right? just curious as im trying to figure out what i want to do
Yeah, I went with GSXR 750's for the 1.6 - don't go with 600's, too small in my opinion.
Will a SpeedyEfi stand alone ecu work for this? Been wanting to do this to my 92.
For sure! SpeedyEFI is idential to Speeduino, which is what I'm running.
Is the link for the wiring diagram you used in the drop box?
I actually forgot to throw that in the dropbox, but I'll make sure to do that now, my bad guys! Here's the pinout that I ended up using ;
www.dropbox.com/s/2pp58h2swunk60c/GSXR%20750%20Pinout.png?dl=0
www.locostbuilders.co.uk/viewthread.php?tid=34956
Uploaded to dropbox just in case that forum ever ends up going down.
toomanymiatas thanks brotha
Hey amazing video, I don't know if you mentioned it, probably didn't listed to it, but how many horses did you made with the itbs? And a boring question haha how's your mile per gallon with them?
Awesome brother sounds great!!!!!
Hey mate, you should try and get the catch can soon if you have not already done so. Having the breather just above your hot exhaust manifold is a recipe for disaster.
Thanks for the concerns! I hadn't actually considered that when I originally installed the breather.
I've installed a catch can already, but an easy solution would've been to use the stock hard line/vaccum line and just route the breather to the left side of the engine bay.
What Speeduino board do you have ? sick setup btw
NA6 PNP, one of the earlier units.
methane injection through other injectors?
I don't think OEM GSXR injectors would be capable of methane, but it'd be pretty easy to convert those injectors to an AEM meth injection kit, or even natural gas injectors. That'd definitely be a fun project in the future, thanks for the idea!
Slot of ppl use freeze plugs for the fuel injected holes. 4age guys do it all the time
That makes a lot of sense! Dunno why I didnt think of that, thanks man.
Give us a sound video(driving) , great stuff
How is the idel air control valve routed
There isnt one
I love the liftertick
Hi, orange injectors from R1 have flow rate /3 bar = cc ? THX
230cc.
Any hp gains???very nice and smooth idle!
What could you recommend for a 1.8? I have been interested in making as much na horsepower w/o spending a lot of money.
I'd recommend 750's, 1000's, or 1300's. Same bore spacing on both, but the 1300's are have a larger diameter by 2m, and you can respace them easier iirc.
Question my friend. Do you have a original cpu on the car? Thanks
by cpu do you mean ecu? They do not. You are able to, if using the original air flow meter. However this adds a large restriction, taking away many benefits from ITBs.
@@graham_lewis yes. The ecu. Thank you for the response👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻❤️
Was thinking of going with cbr1000 carbs when I get my mx5 but this sounds a lot easier
Stock ECU or standalone? Love the idea!
Thanks man! Standalone for now.
Is it difficult to tune? I’m not sure what ECU you have, but it looks like the megasquirt program
It's a Speeduino ECU, which uses Tunerstudio as it's interfacing program, so it's incredibly similar to Megasquirt. Super easy to tune imo
bit late to the party but whats the chances you'd drill out the spare injectors and use that rail for nos 🤣
woahh someone is going to install extra injectors in boost build on that ,
That's definitely a plan for the future!
looks great. whats your COP setup?
They're generic Toyota COP's. I honestly don't remember the exact car/year that I grabbed them off of, but I've got a video on my channel that goes into more detail.
Why do people do this? What’s the advantage?
There are horsepower gains to be had if you have complimenting mods, like cams, bore/stroke'd block, etc. Fundamentally ITB"s allow more air into the cylinder at a faster rate and a better control of the airs velocity.
❤️❤️👍👍👍
Great work, thinking out off the box
Love this, now do nos fogger lol
i have a na 1.8 with speeduino but stock intake manifold.
i’m very curious about how idle works and is tuned on tunerstudio without idle valve
Have some one fill those injector holes with a welder
You really should leave this NA, you may as well put the stock stuff back on to turbo it. This is just asking for issues for no gain with a turbo imo
WHO COULD DO THIS IN SAN DIEGO?
Very cool video, you should check out my Miata build!
Hey man, I really hope you're ok. I bought the 3D-printed bracket from you on eBay and it's been almost 3 months with no response. I've emailed you three times. You don't seem like the kind of person to dupe people, also, your store has 100% positive feedback. I honestly hope everything is good bro.. This doesn't feel right as your channel has been dead lately too...
So essentially....