I am very much overall impressed with your modeling of the M-60A1 tank. I was on these tanks as a crewman throughout the 1970’s, as well as M-60 and the Sheridan for awhile. Reason primary to this note is that I want to disagree with respect, regarding the painting of center guides and end connectors. On the inside of the road wheels and compensating idler wheel was a piece, later multi-piece attachment called a “wear plate”. When the tank is driven any distance, with a few turns, the sides of the center guides were bare metal, and somewhat polished. They were made of steel, of course, so after sitting for awhile, yes they did develop a light coat of rust. But not much, and to my memory they turned a darkish gray. They, like the end connectors came from the factory with the same baked-on(?) OD Green as the tank. Speaking of the end connectors, in use, the main wear on the end connectors was to the forward arc of the connectors from wear against the drive sprocket which was also polished on the inside only, where end connector and sprocket met. Incidentally, the heater exhaust was invariably rusty, like the muffler/exhaust of panzers, and, every M-60/A1 I was around had a thin angle iron protector bolted to the fender support, and the same width as the fender, and sufficient girth to cover the diameter of the exhaust pipe. We often used this to scrape the mud off our boots prior to getting in the tank. Thought you might like to know! All the best! Jeff Clark
Yes I am aware of the wear plates and were part of the reason why they went with Aluminum alloy on the M60's wheel rims. I usually paint my guide horns as I do because from the majority of the 60's I have seen in person and also in some period pics they are rusty like the ones on my build. Granted these vehicles have not been driven in a while so the rust builds up. If I wanted to depict a tank that has been driven I would still paint them the same way but add another step with the paint being a swipe of silver paint on the sides of the teeth. I was thinking about doing this on my next generation of Patton based tanks. Also As I mentioned in the video if you want to depict a newer tank you would use a dark grey color in place of the rust color, then you can add the silver dry brushing over for the driven but not too old effect
Also here is a pic of the condition of the tracks I generally see on these vehicles, www.reddit.com/media?url=https%3A%2F%2Fi.redd.it%2Ftxup9yltpiv71.jpg
Great posting..... I have Several 'Tamiya' tanks with this vinyl track and I'm glad I found you.... 1) Acrylic paints, huh..... I Just saw a video posting showing using 'Humbrol' enamel paints, then letting it dry and using a Clear Coat on top BEFORE doing Any weathering/coloring.. 2) Nice to see that you show some of the "mistakes" that you experience while doing this posting....( one using your hands and fingers removing paint from bottle...Yeck!! 🤢😉) 3) LATEX Paint(s)??!! Which brand.....more importantly what is the PSI on your airbrush to push that paint through? What needle size do you use? 4) The use of hand-brushing and airbrushing is Great....just smearing the paint (licking {!!}) might be un-necessary. 5) OVERALL..... I have to admit, though different, I Like this method....simple, no Un-necessary paints, washes, pigments and the results look "good" for basic weathering of these types of model tracks.👍👍👍 I Hope that you answer some of the comments I made....I getting ready to paint my 'Hobby Boss' Leopard 2 AVLB with Their vinyl tracks ( it is my first tank build in decade!! ) Especially the PSI question and brand of latex paint. Lastly, saw you Facebook Channel with other pics and Those of the M1 look good as well!! 👍👍👍
lots to unpack so I'll start in order. 1, On the Enamels. I have seen more than one occasion where the enamels will harm the vinyl tracks, this tends to happen in the years that come after the model is finished and when the model begins to age. Depending on the kit or the paint used I have seen the negative reaction immediately once the paint is applied. It's because of these factors is why I play it safe and just roll with the acrylics, as it appears these issues are not present with this paint method. 2, The LATEX paint I use is exterior flat house paint, the stuff in home improvement stores. So Bear, gliden, Valspar... etc 3, the psi, is much higher compared to most ppl, I have a large 30gal air compressor and I'm running between 40 ~ 60 psi. With the larger compressors you get to better dial down the air, so for fine work if needed I have that option, but on average I like the results with the high power psi 4, the needle, I think I am using the #3 if I'm not mistaken I hope this helps, and thanks for enjoying the content
@@oddball759mm .... Wow.... Thanks for the Quick Reply!! I Did like this posting, you make so Easy!! I too, use acrylics ( used 'Model Master' [acrylic] ....now 'Vallejo - Air' ) A 30-gal air compressor..... hmmmmmm.....well I don't have that. I Do have an air compressor, but a moderate tank, though it Can go up to 60psi, but Rarely run it that high. As for the needles, I do have a 'GREX' air brush with a #5 needle....that Should push the paint in a bigger area so I probably need to mask a bit. And as far as paint.... I could probably get away with some "tester jars" of paint from Home Depot.
![KSI - Thick Of It (feat. Trippie Redd) [Official Music Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/At8v_Yc044Y/mqdefault.jpg)
I am very much overall impressed with your modeling of the M-60A1 tank. I was on these tanks as a crewman throughout the 1970’s, as well as M-60 and the Sheridan for awhile. Reason primary to this note is that I want to disagree with respect, regarding the painting of center guides and end connectors. On the inside of the road wheels and compensating idler wheel was a piece, later multi-piece attachment called a “wear plate”. When the tank is driven any distance, with a few turns, the sides of the center guides were bare metal, and somewhat polished. They were made of steel, of course, so after sitting for awhile, yes they did develop a light coat of rust. But not much, and to my memory they turned a darkish gray. They, like the end connectors came from the factory with the same baked-on(?) OD Green as the tank. Speaking of the end connectors, in use, the main wear on the end connectors was to the forward arc of the connectors from wear against the drive sprocket which was also polished on the inside only, where end connector and sprocket met. Incidentally, the heater exhaust was invariably rusty, like the muffler/exhaust of panzers, and, every M-60/A1 I was around had a thin angle iron protector bolted to the fender support, and the same width as the fender, and sufficient girth to cover the diameter of the exhaust pipe. We often used this to scrape the mud off our boots prior to getting in the tank. Thought you might like to know! All the best!
Jeff Clark
Yes I am aware of the wear plates and were part of the reason why they went with Aluminum alloy on the M60's wheel rims. I usually paint my guide horns as I do because from the majority of the 60's I have seen in person and also in some period pics they are rusty like the ones on my build. Granted these vehicles have not been driven in a while so the rust builds up. If I wanted to depict a tank that has been driven I would still paint them the same way but add another step with the paint being a swipe of silver paint on the sides of the teeth. I was thinking about doing this on my next generation of Patton based tanks. Also As I mentioned in the video if you want to depict a newer tank you would use a dark grey color in place of the rust color, then you can add the silver dry brushing over for the driven but not too old effect
Also here is a pic of the condition of the tracks I generally see on these vehicles, www.reddit.com/media?url=https%3A%2F%2Fi.redd.it%2Ftxup9yltpiv71.jpg
Great posting.....
I have Several 'Tamiya' tanks with this vinyl track and I'm glad I found you....
1) Acrylic paints, huh..... I Just saw a video posting showing using 'Humbrol' enamel paints, then letting it dry and using a Clear Coat on top BEFORE doing Any weathering/coloring..
2) Nice to see that you show some of the "mistakes" that you experience while doing this posting....( one using your hands and fingers removing paint from bottle...Yeck!! 🤢😉)
3) LATEX Paint(s)??!! Which brand.....more importantly what is the PSI on your airbrush to push that paint through? What needle size do you use?
4) The use of hand-brushing and airbrushing is Great....just smearing the paint (licking {!!}) might be un-necessary.
5) OVERALL..... I have to admit, though different, I Like this method....simple, no Un-necessary paints, washes, pigments and the results look "good" for basic weathering of these types of model tracks.👍👍👍
I Hope that you answer some of the comments I made....I getting ready to paint my 'Hobby Boss' Leopard 2 AVLB with Their vinyl tracks ( it is my first tank build in decade!! ) Especially the PSI question and brand of latex paint.
Lastly, saw you Facebook Channel with other pics and Those of the M1 look good as well!! 👍👍👍
lots to unpack so I'll start in order.
1, On the Enamels. I have seen more than one occasion where the enamels will harm the vinyl tracks, this tends to happen in the years that come after the model is finished and when the model begins to age. Depending on the kit or the paint used I have seen the negative reaction immediately once the paint is applied. It's because of these factors is why I play it safe and just roll with the acrylics, as it appears these issues are not present with this paint method.
2, The LATEX paint I use is exterior flat house paint, the stuff in home improvement stores. So Bear, gliden, Valspar... etc
3, the psi, is much higher compared to most ppl, I have a large 30gal air compressor and I'm running between 40 ~ 60 psi. With the larger compressors you get to better dial down the air, so for fine work if needed I have that option, but on average I like the results with the high power psi
4, the needle, I think I am using the #3 if I'm not mistaken
I hope this helps, and thanks for enjoying the content
@@oddball759mm .... Wow.... Thanks for the Quick Reply!!
I Did like this posting, you make so Easy!!
I too, use acrylics ( used 'Model Master' [acrylic] ....now 'Vallejo - Air' )
A 30-gal air compressor..... hmmmmmm.....well I don't have that. I Do have an air compressor, but a moderate tank, though it Can go up to 60psi, but Rarely run it that high. As for the needles, I do have a 'GREX' air brush with a #5 needle....that Should push the paint in a bigger area so I probably need to mask a bit.
And as far as paint.... I could probably get away with some "tester jars" of paint from Home Depot.
Yeah 😃😃😃I was mentioned!!! 😁😁😁
Did I win anything (apart from being able to tap into your wisdom)?
yeah, a crisp thumb up 👍