@@rcprinter I finished the build, and it works! BTW, I bought your kit with all parts included about a year ago (before you included the brass tubing). I only just now finished the build because of this video. I'm going to order the metal diff. just a precaution. The one I printed out of Alloy 910 nylon seems to be holding up though.
@@The0nionKnight hey that's great! For me it was the bells on the sides of the diff that went rather than the gears but hopefully yours holds up a while.
@@rcprinter Thank you. I got the metal diffs in the mail. The front metal diffs don't work with the Quanum Vandal front CVD's; theyre too short. Does that mean I have to use the adjustable driveshafts ?
Hi, how hard is it to turn the spur gear? Mine seems excessively tight. I know belts have to be tight but the load on the motor seems excessive. I know my diffs are not binding in the cases. Do the belts break in? thanks
Love the video , I printed the original designs you said theres a new tensioner at the front and rear are there new files on Cults ? Or are the on the Forum ?
Just found your channel and love it. Going to order a kit soon and take on one of these builds. I’m looking at this one or robak 2. Which one would you go with? Or maybe another model? Thanks I’m advance. Also would printing this in Asa or nylon be workable?
Hey they're both great cars. The robak is beefier and has an all metal drivetrain. The mkultra is a smaller belt driven buggy. Personally I like the buggy better but it depends what you're looking for.
can this be printed entirely with PLA+? oh and also the FS Racing Differentials is absolutely hard to find, will an HSP differential or a ZD Racing 1/10 differential work?
you can print everything in pla+ except I'd print the motor mount in something more heat resistant like abs or petg. We sell the diffs here: rcprinter.com/products/1-10-scale-rc-metal-differential-for-mkultra or you can get them in one of our kits here: rcprinter.com/products/mkultra-build-kits
Well, 1 roll of filament. Then you have to add in fasteners/bearings/servo/motor/esc and we have a kit for that which is $175. rcprinter.com/products/mkultra-build-kits Then you'll need belts ($12), diffs ($50), Driveshafts ($20) which we also sell. Then you'll need shocks ($30), Pinion/Spur ($20), wheels ($20) and then whatever you want to go with for batteries, chargers, receivers, transmitters which hopefully you already have from other cars but maybe not if this is your first build. So minimum $275-300 or so depending on what components you choose. More likely 300-$350 if you bring your own Tx. Then you can go waaay up from there depending on how fancy you wanna get.
Is there a particular reason to use cylinder head screws? I've got a lot of the M3 screws from previous projects but they're round head. Would it make a significant difference? Thanks for the great build video!!
Hi there. This is on my list of builds for sure. Ill start with the F1 probably. Eventually Ill build his M Car and Badger. Can you get any parts for those? Also, to tune your printer for accuracy, did you do anything besides E steps? Thanks
I mostly use my Prusa i3 mk3s printers and they're pretty accurate so i don't really do anything other than the auto calibration. I have some ender 3s as well and after calibrating esteps and adding bltouchs they're pretty accurate too.
are the M2 screws supposed to thread into the ID of the 3mm rod to secure it? The M2 screws just slip in the ID for me. Also is there anywhere with STEP files of the CAD instead of just the STL print files?
Hey, no I think the m2 screws you're referring to are to stop the hinge pins (rod) from sliding out and they go through the 3d plastic and hit the rod from the side. I don't believe the STEP files are available anywhere AFAIK.
So the complete max kit online that u sell is missing what exactly? Ran across your videos but dont have a 3d printer and would love to build the max 4x4 van
Our max kit doesn't include radio controller/receiver, tires, battery/charger, electrical wiring bits, window plastic, lube/ solder/threadlocker. Check the 3dsets list here: docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1qJsxQu0FI6UC8y0_C5d2Fdbl568DwP7dJHV4J_-2tOU/
just bought your kit for this model and everything was going great till i got the the links i cant get them to stay on the ball links they are way to tight or just pop off i must have reprinted them 5 times do you have any advise how i can get them to work or maybe some links i can print like the open f-1 rc or something i can buy? thanks for offering the kit with drive shafts and diff. it made the build fun up to these links
I would like to create this car but I'm afraid I won't find all the parts from France, it takes a lot, I've already created a 3D RC boat but it was much easier next door ^^ Good video
It's a great car but there are definitely simpler builds out there. It's worth it though if you want something with enhanced performance. We have kits at www.rcprinter.com if you can't find what you need locally.
@@rcprinter I want a high-performance and above all resistant car. I know your site but the complete kits do not include the elements that are difficult to find such as the suspension part etc...
@@sebgln Yeah are kits are growing over time but we don't have shocks yet unfortunately. MkUltra is a good bet for a performance RC. You could also take a look at the Robak2 if you want something with bigger truck-like tires and a full metal drivetrain/steering. I hope to have kits for Robak 2 soon as well.
@@sebgln I haven't played with mine too much yet but it should be speedy. I hope to do more testing on it in the next few weeks and I should have a video on it then.
just wandering ... Sombody calculated how much this costs ? ... to compare with an out of a box kit / build car ... of course they both have benefits ...
It's not quite as durable as an injection molded car but it's close. My son and I were bashing these around yesterday and we crashed them directly into eachother pretty hard and nothing broke but just a top suspension arm popped off. When I roll them usually nothing happens except the rear wing will crack a bit more each time, I should probably print it out of something a little more flexible like petg.
I guess it also depends on where are you planning to drive them? if on grass I think they will be robust enough to take some abuse but on rough terrain like small rocks etc IMO forget it, it will take a hit or two but its not an injection moulded car, on rougher terrain it would break unless you print certain parts like the shock tower and lower parts from hard shore TPU. I think in that way it will take more durable.
Yes, you can get them on amazon, look for a diff by fsracing 511687 but we also sell them here: rcprinter.com/products/1-10-scale-rc-metal-differential-for-mkultra You'll need the adjustable driveshafts as well: rcprinter.com/products/4-driveshaft-set-for-mkultra
what's the bed temp that you are using? 60deg? if so raise the temp by 5 more deg. if the problem still persists make sure that the bed is well cleaned and try to use a simple enclosure. if a cardboard box or a simple garbage bag over the printer will do. if you have a temp gauge on the printer make sure that the temp is stable inside with no Air drafts going on the print.
@@dethdron the chassis??, sure its not just the motor mount? If the whole thing is deforming could be also a long exposure to sunlight UV or leaving the car in a very hot enviroment, for ex in the car boot during transit or parked in a parking lot during a hot day.
www.thingiverse.com/thing:3328520 here's the main files. All I added were a few small tinkers... TPU Cover seal: www.tinkercad.com/things/ehAVoYtd1jL TPU Servo seal: www.tinkercad.com/things/beES4gdfuWc ABS Motor mount: www.tinkercad.com/things/fZYOfry3xQD
![Chino Pacas - Modo Capone (with Drake & Fuerza Regida) [Video Oficial]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/zjv8TQ0gBkg/mqdefault.jpg)
Thanks to your video, I'm starting the MK3 this wintertime. As a thank you for this build guide, I'm ordering one of your build kits. Keep it up!
That's awesome thanks for the support! Enjoy the build!
is there a newer version of this? I can only find the one on cults
Thank you for this video. I've been having a hard time building mine.
Glad I could help. Its not the simplest build in the world so hopefully this makes it easier.
@@rcprinter I finished the build, and it works! BTW, I bought your kit with all parts included about a year ago (before you included the brass tubing). I only just now finished the build because of this video. I'm going to order the metal diff. just a precaution. The one I printed out of Alloy 910 nylon seems to be holding up though.
@@The0nionKnight hey that's great! For me it was the bells on the sides of the diff that went rather than the gears but hopefully yours holds up a while.
@@rcprinter Thank you. I got the metal diffs in the mail. The front metal diffs don't work with the Quanum Vandal front CVD's; theyre too short. Does that mean I have to use the adjustable driveshafts ?
Nice and helpful video as always - would never have figured out all the screw sizes ;-)
Glad it helped. The screw sizes are only my interpretation of what they should be so similar sizes will likely work in many cases.
Amazing work
Thank you! Cheers!
Hi, how hard is it to turn the spur gear? Mine seems excessively tight. I know belts have to be tight but the load on the motor seems excessive. I know my diffs are not binding in the cases. Do the belts break in?
thanks
Thank you. Good video!
Glad you liked it!
Love the video , I printed the original designs you said theres a new tensioner at the front and rear are there new files on Cults ? Or are the on the Forum ?
They're included in the files now if you download them.
Just found your channel and love it. Going to order a kit soon and take on one of these builds. I’m looking at this one or robak 2. Which one would you go with? Or maybe another model? Thanks I’m advance. Also would printing this in Asa or nylon be workable?
Hey they're both great cars. The robak is beefier and has an all metal drivetrain. The mkultra is a smaller belt driven buggy. Personally I like the buggy better but it depends what you're looking for.
Nice build video
Thanks bud!
This is awesome.
Thanks!
where did you get those screwdriver tips? Thanks and great work on this stuff.
Those are MIPS speed tips... they're pretty expensive but you can get cheap hex driver tips on amazon.
Why is there no clutch and servo saver to protect the drivetrain? Also personally id use metal ball links over 3d printed.
can this be printed entirely with PLA+? oh and also the FS Racing Differentials is absolutely hard to find, will an HSP differential or a ZD Racing 1/10 differential work?
you can print everything in pla+ except I'd print the motor mount in something more heat resistant like abs or petg. We sell the diffs here: rcprinter.com/products/1-10-scale-rc-metal-differential-for-mkultra or you can get them in one of our kits here: rcprinter.com/products/mkultra-build-kits
Love the design, How much would it cost approx to print pin yourself and get your own parts? Looking for a nice fit project
Well, 1 roll of filament. Then you have to add in fasteners/bearings/servo/motor/esc and we have a kit for that which is $175. rcprinter.com/products/mkultra-build-kits
Then you'll need belts ($12), diffs ($50), Driveshafts ($20) which we also sell.
Then you'll need shocks ($30), Pinion/Spur ($20), wheels ($20) and then whatever you want to go with for batteries, chargers, receivers, transmitters which hopefully you already have from other cars but maybe not if this is your first build.
So minimum $275-300 or so depending on what components you choose. More likely 300-$350 if you bring your own Tx. Then you can go waaay up from there depending on how fancy you wanna get.
Thank you for the videos. Of all Racing Buggies you built, which one you like the most and its most durable? Thank you
This one for sure
Is there a particular reason to use cylinder head screws? I've got a lot of the M3 screws from previous projects but they're round head. Would it make a significant difference? Thanks for the great build video!!
The design has recesses for the heads of the cylinder screws. The button head screws might be a bit too wide but you could make them work.
Hi there. This is on my list of builds for sure. Ill start with the F1 probably. Eventually Ill build his M Car and Badger. Can you get any parts for those?
Also, to tune your printer for accuracy, did you do anything besides E steps?
Thanks
I mostly use my Prusa i3 mk3s printers and they're pretty accurate so i don't really do anything other than the auto calibration. I have some ender 3s as well and after calibrating esteps and adding bltouchs they're pretty accurate too.
@RC Printer sweet, your down the road at the shuswap, im in kamloops. Small world.
Great video! I am going to make my own, and i am looking at springs. What size should i get?
I mean shocks offcourse :)
For shocks it calls for 81mm in the rear and 91mm in the front (eye to eye). cults3d.com/en/3d-model/various/mkultra-3d-printable-1-10-4wd-buggy
are the M2 screws supposed to thread into the ID of the 3mm rod to secure it? The M2 screws just slip in the ID for me. Also is there anywhere with STEP files of the CAD instead of just the STL print files?
Hey, no I think the m2 screws you're referring to are to stop the hinge pins (rod) from sliding out and they go through the 3d plastic and hit the rod from the side. I don't believe the STEP files are available anywhere AFAIK.
So the complete max kit online that u sell is missing what exactly? Ran across your videos but dont have a 3d printer and would love to build the max 4x4 van
Our max kit doesn't include radio controller/receiver, tires, battery/charger, electrical wiring bits, window plastic, lube/ solder/threadlocker. Check the 3dsets list here: docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1qJsxQu0FI6UC8y0_C5d2Fdbl568DwP7dJHV4J_-2tOU/
Im looking to buy a Ender 3 , so my question is how long would it take to print out this chassis/car? thanks
I'm not certain total print time but at least a couple of days of printing.
Are self tapping screws needed for this build?
Nope, just regular metric screws
@@rcprinter Awesome, thank you! Not my first 3d printed project but it is the first to need to be screwed together.
just bought your kit for this model and everything was going great till i got the the links i cant get them to stay on the ball links they are way to tight or just pop off i must have reprinted them 5 times do you have any advise how i can get them to work or maybe some links i can print like the open f-1 rc or something i can buy? thanks for offering the kit with drive shafts and diff. it made the build fun up to these links
What size print bed do you need for this project? Would a prusa mini be up to the task (180 x 180 x 180 mm)?
yup should be. Just checked and the chassis will fit on the plate and I'm certain that's the biggest part.
I would like to create this car but I'm afraid I won't find all the parts from France, it takes a lot, I've already created a 3D RC boat but it was much easier next door ^^ Good video
It's a great car but there are definitely simpler builds out there. It's worth it though if you want something with enhanced performance. We have kits at www.rcprinter.com if you can't find what you need locally.
@@rcprinter I want a high-performance and above all resistant car. I know your site but the complete kits do not include the elements that are difficult to find such as the suspension part etc...
@@sebgln Yeah are kits are growing over time but we don't have shocks yet unfortunately. MkUltra is a good bet for a performance RC. You could also take a look at the Robak2 if you want something with bigger truck-like tires and a full metal drivetrain/steering. I hope to have kits for Robak 2 soon as well.
@@rcprinter Oh that cool, I have discover Robak 2 yesterday, I think I'm go to build it. I don't know if Robak 2 are speedy ?
@@sebgln I haven't played with mine too much yet but it should be speedy. I hope to do more testing on it in the next few weeks and I should have a video on it then.
the orange one
@rcprinter can i have the every item that i need to build this nice car except for the 3d printing files please
we sell kits here that will get your most of the way to a finished buggy: rcprinter.com/products/mkultra-build-kits
Roughly how much did it cost you to print the parts.?
Not the motor/esc/radio/servo, just the printed parts.
the whole thing is less than 1 roll of filament which is about $20.
just wandering ... Sombody calculated how much this costs ? ...
to compare with an out of a box kit / build car ...
of course they both have benefits ...
Its all about the enjoyment of the build for me :) You can definitely buy a better car.
How durable is it? Like can it go over a jump and not break? If it rolls, does it break?
It's not quite as durable as an injection molded car but it's close. My son and I were bashing these around yesterday and we crashed them directly into eachother pretty hard and nothing broke but just a top suspension arm popped off. When I roll them usually nothing happens except the rear wing will crack a bit more each time, I should probably print it out of something a little more flexible like petg.
I guess it also depends on where are you planning to drive them? if on grass I think they will be robust enough to take some abuse but on rough terrain like small rocks etc IMO forget it, it will take a hit or two but its not an injection moulded car, on rougher terrain it would break unless you print certain parts like the shock tower and lower parts from hard shore TPU. I think in that way it will take more durable.
What's the top speed. And can I somehow change the gearbox
not sure on top speed but if you want to change the gearing you could try a different layshaft, different pinion, different spur.
Are you printing all the parts in PLA??
yes, except for the motor mount which is abs or petg. Its also better if you print the rear wing out of PETG or something a bit more flexible.
What size belt are you using
rcprinter.com/products/mkultra-belts
what size are the 2 differentials can i get them on amazon?
Yes, you can get them on amazon, look for a diff by fsracing 511687 but we also sell them here: rcprinter.com/products/1-10-scale-rc-metal-differential-for-mkultra You'll need the adjustable driveshafts as well: rcprinter.com/products/4-driveshaft-set-for-mkultra
my pla chassis is deforming due to temperature, do you have any problem with that?
never had that issue.
what's the bed temp that you are using? 60deg? if so raise the temp by 5 more deg. if the problem still persists make sure that the bed is well cleaned and try to use a simple enclosure. if a cardboard box or a simple garbage bag over the printer will do. if you have a temp gauge on the printer make sure that the temp is stable inside with no Air drafts going on the print.
@@ripmax333 I mean the chassis is deformed by the temperature of the engine while driving
@@dethdron the chassis??, sure its not just the motor mount? If the whole thing is deforming could be also a long exposure to sunlight UV or leaving the car in a very hot enviroment, for ex in the car boot during transit or parked in a parking lot during a hot day.
Can I use GT2 or HTD belt?
They would likely work at this small scale but I can't say for sure.
Can you please upload all the files of the upgraded rc jet boat?
www.thingiverse.com/thing:3328520 here's the main files. All I added were a few small tinkers...
TPU Cover seal: www.tinkercad.com/things/ehAVoYtd1jL
TPU Servo seal: www.tinkercad.com/things/beES4gdfuWc
ABS Motor mount: www.tinkercad.com/things/fZYOfry3xQD
Thank you so much!!
What is the pitch of the belt?
I use these belts that are STD profile. rcprinter.com/products/mkultra-belts?_pos=2&_psq=mkultr&_ss=e&_v=1.0
Funny name
agreed :)
Where are the stl files?
cults3d.com/en/3d-model/various/mkultra-3d-printable-1-10-4wd-buggy
i just found this youtube channel TomasHubik1, if you want to print crazy small Rc car, look him up
wow those are neat, super fun little projects. 1/32 is very small. might have to try one someday.