You are such an optimist Richard- you always say “I don’t think it’s too bad, I can do a local repair” and then next we know it’s most of the floor and reality sinks in. This is why I couldn’t do what you do- I have the skills having done my own restos over the years but I could not stop myself treating it like I would if it were mine and stripping it right back. I suspect I have an element of OCD that kicks in…..
There is a fine line between lots of local repairs and just ripping it all out to repair it correctly off the car and then reinstalling it. I do my best to be economical with my time
Jup, been there, done that! How ever, not too botherd with originality, so i try too eliminate as many dubbel layer steel as i can. I also use galvanice steel.... nasty stuff tough, only weld outside! Keep up the good work! And sorry for my spelling!
They don't build em like they used to, and have got rid of the rust problem by having them self destruct by fire 🔥🔥🔥 😂🤣😂 Just don't park too close to a new one 😬
Dealt with that bulkhead area below the windscreen on my 94 softdash about 20 years ago. The entire channel drains badly (if at all) and water rots down through the bottom seam and holes, in a long line, through the bulkhead into the interior. Water everywhere. After "repair" (where possible) I lined the complete channel with adhesive roof flashing tape material like a waterproof gutter. I formed and sealed drain tubes in the low points (near the centre section) which drain water away behind the engine. Never had a problem since.🤞 I also have a 1973 2 door (owned 40 years) and the same area is perfect with no rot whatsoever! Amazing difference. Is it down to change in steel quality and/or very poor seam sealing and paint prep on the late vehicles? The original chassis on the 2 door is still fantastic, even after a career heavy off roading. I had to fit a new galvanised chassis to the '94 this year, it was well and truly ''toasted" despite years of chasing rot holes. Definitely a case of inferior steel quality for the later and subsequent Discovery models. Love my RR Classics!
I am frequently finding just primer, and where there is a top coat, no primer is under it. These were thrown together towards the end of the production run
Same on mine (95) - holes in the lower sides of the foot wells, one or two in the bulkhead where the front inner wings attach, the inner wings similar to this one, rot at the ends of each sill, the edges of the boot floor and inside the rear cross member. Most of it was better than typical, but a rotten sill is a rotten sill, no matter how small the hole. Just had all those parts replaced so the shell is now like new and has been epoxied. The bit that had worried me most was a hole in the front of the driver’s A post where the longitudinal member that holds the wing top had filled with water. Strangely, the rear arches only had issues where the spot weld flange of the side curtains met, but were free even of surface rust inboard of there and not a trace of rust around the seat belt anchors, so they were saved. It certainly had a cosseted life, waxoiled (not very well) from new.
I've done this area on my Disco 1. Worse sills, better floor. Leaks from the oval wiring grommet onto the super absorbent footwell heavy layer. I get a bit stressed when I start the strip down. Will I be able to put it back together??? Doing the cant rail under the RH alpine light at the mo. Again, quite scary till the metal starts going back in. Good luck to you & me, Richard!
Don't despair Richard.not as bad as the latest breed of Range Rover that spontaneously combust in airport carparks. Hopefully another nail In the EV coffin.rumour has it that it was a diesel hybrid and it was either the battery that went up or it decided to do a dpf regen on its own. All that rust in the footwells is a pain in the butt and yes it was probably caused by crusty seam sealer and condensation under the mats . When I did my rebuild once all the repairs were completed the entire inside of the passenger compartment was primed then given a heavy coating of sprayed stonechip then primed and topcoated so that if their was any water ingress it couldn't get to the steel.
Similar to mine, though I wish I'd gone and replaced the whole sills and pillar bottoms because I know the patches wont hold back the inevitable tin worm.
the main part of the sill structure and also the base of the door pillars are exceptional on this body shell. lots of protection will be going in at the end
I've had a lot of classics over the years and by far the worst for early years rust in general and particularly under the dash area were the soft dash. I had one ex police that was bare metal on the dash underside and had rusted through the ends at 5 years old. I believe the late shells were being built and painted by hand off line as the body in white line was being converted to build P38.
Only the last few were built along side the line, which by then was dedicated to the P38. The Police and ops cars were taken off the line at an earlier point and sent to Northolt iirc. I have a book all about it someplace
The thing is, the customer will have the satisfaction of going home with a properly refurbished car. All down to you sir. Thank you for posting.
The battle against oxidation continues! Deeply satisfying seeing those rusty panels being replaced with shiny new steel! Next episode please! Cheers
You are such an optimist Richard- you always say “I don’t think it’s too bad, I can do a local repair” and then next we know it’s most of the floor and reality sinks in. This is why I couldn’t do what you do- I have the skills having done my own restos over the years but I could not stop myself treating it like I would if it were mine and stripping it right back. I suspect I have an element of OCD that kicks in…..
There is a fine line between lots of local repairs and just ripping it all out to repair it correctly off the car and then reinstalling it. I do my best to be economical with my time
Jup, been there, done that! How ever, not too botherd with originality, so i try too eliminate as many dubbel layer steel as i can. I also use galvanice steel.... nasty stuff tough, only weld outside! Keep up the good work! And sorry for my spelling!
Well, as they say, that escalated fast.
They don't build em like they used to, and have got rid of the rust problem by having them self destruct by fire 🔥🔥🔥 😂🤣😂
Just don't park too close to a new one 😬
The mud flap reinforcing bracket is exactly the same on my 94 Discovery 1
thank you for letting me know
Dealt with that bulkhead area below the windscreen on my 94 softdash about 20 years ago. The entire channel drains badly (if at all) and water rots down through the bottom seam and holes, in a long line, through the bulkhead into the interior. Water everywhere.
After "repair" (where possible) I lined the complete channel with adhesive roof flashing tape material like a waterproof gutter. I formed and sealed drain tubes in the low points (near the centre section) which drain water away behind the engine. Never had a problem since.🤞
I also have a 1973 2 door (owned 40 years) and the same area is perfect with no rot whatsoever! Amazing difference. Is it down to change in steel quality and/or very poor seam sealing and paint prep on the late vehicles? The original chassis on the 2 door is still fantastic, even after a career heavy off roading. I had to fit a new galvanised chassis to the '94 this year, it was well and truly ''toasted" despite years of chasing rot holes. Definitely a case of inferior steel quality for the later and subsequent Discovery models.
Love my RR Classics!
I am frequently finding just primer, and where there is a top coat, no primer is under it. These were thrown together towards the end of the production run
Same on mine (95) - holes in the lower sides of the foot wells, one or two in the bulkhead where the front inner wings attach, the inner wings similar to this one, rot at the ends of each sill, the edges of the boot floor and inside the rear cross member. Most of it was better than typical, but a rotten sill is a rotten sill, no matter how small the hole. Just had all those parts replaced so the shell is now like new and has been epoxied. The bit that had worried me most was a hole in the front of the driver’s A post where the longitudinal member that holds the wing top had filled with water. Strangely, the rear arches only had issues where the spot weld flange of the side curtains met, but were free even of surface rust inboard of there and not a trace of rust around the seat belt anchors, so they were saved. It certainly had a cosseted life, waxoiled (not very well) from new.
I've done this area on my Disco 1. Worse sills, better floor. Leaks from the oval wiring grommet onto the super absorbent footwell heavy layer. I get a bit stressed when I start the strip down. Will I be able to put it back together??? Doing the cant rail under the RH alpine light at the mo. Again, quite scary till the metal starts going back in. Good luck to you & me, Richard!
Don't despair Richard.not as bad as the latest breed of Range Rover that spontaneously combust in airport carparks.
Hopefully another nail In the EV coffin.rumour has it that it was a diesel hybrid and it was either the battery that went up or it decided to do a dpf regen on its own.
All that rust in the footwells is a pain in the butt and yes it was probably caused by crusty seam sealer and condensation under the mats .
When I did my rebuild once all the repairs were completed the entire inside of the passenger compartment was primed then given a heavy coating of sprayed stonechip then primed and topcoated so that if their was any water ingress it couldn't get to the steel.
Apparently it was the new Luton limited edition that comes two tone with a charcoal roof.
Similar to mine, though I wish I'd gone and replaced the whole sills and pillar bottoms because I know the patches wont hold back the inevitable tin worm.
the main part of the sill structure and also the base of the door pillars are exceptional on this body shell. lots of protection will be going in at the end
I'll tell you bad it can get.....similar to your untidy workshop !
But I tidied it up, you wouldn't have wanted to see it before 😲🤬🤡
I've had a lot of classics over the years and by far the worst for early years rust in general and particularly under the dash area were the soft dash. I had one ex police that was bare metal on the dash underside and had rusted through the ends at 5 years old. I believe the late shells were being built and painted by hand off line as the body in white line was being converted to build P38.
Only the last few were built along side the line, which by then was dedicated to the P38. The Police and ops cars were taken off the line at an earlier point and sent to Northolt iirc. I have a book all about it someplace