As a retired CAT&CUMMINS knuckle buster and if I wanted real answers as to why it broke I would take it to a metallurgist. And from what I see in the video its been cracked a while. I say that because of the RUST in the crack! As for welding it if your not a CERTIFIED BRIDGE WELDER to me it would be a WASTE of time and electricity!!!
That isnt your falt i v broken or should i day that the loaded bracket on my 3510 has broken twice on both sides It is a engineering problem and kioti redesigned the brackets and bucket ac Assembly in 2021 sp they you have it and i v contact thr corporate office and they refused to let me see a representative. I'm picking my tractor up for the fourth time of replacement of the bracket as you told me too hard on equipment that's three-quarter inch steel bucket assembly, and pistons blown out or bent before that bracket broke never buy, Coyote.
I have a CK 30, with the KL 130 Loader attachment. Neighbor up the road gave us the tractor, he is 86. he bought it for a guy and family to use living on the property...long story. The tractor was beat up pretty bad as far as to maintenance. Has 635 hours. Going over it once I got it home, discover the Loader Mounting bracket, similar to yours is cracked pretty bad. Reason why mine is cracked, the 10 or so bolts that hold it on, 8 were sheared off from being loose. 1 1/2 were holding it on. Right side had 2 sheared off, but that Bracket was not cracked. When the Ram`s are pushing forward to lift, there is the other force pushing back, which caused it to twist and crack, Crack on mine looked almost the same as yours, plus a couple other areas. This is one item in the pre=op and General maintenance to check at every oil change as per the Dealer. Dealer said this is pretty common as the run of the mill week end tractor operator doesn`t have a clue. They see it all the time. They also said they do not weld them, just replace, as the will just crack again. But for $1000, I got mine welded up by a welder friend that has been doing it for 50 yrs. On the CK 30 model, is a thick (cast Iron ?) Piece that will need to be replaced. The tractor needs to be seperated to replace it. Guy said sort of like a Bell Housing piece. On each lower side it is drilled with 4 holes for the big bracket, and the lower corner is broke off...Lucky me...and gave me a price for another $1000. It`s in the shop (Dealer) now to have bolts drilled out etc... full service, new Ign Switch, (key broke off) and new seat belt. Free Tractor probably $3500 +, still not a bad deal. + $110 new battery, and $298 for one front tire. Hungry Beaver, looks to me yours is just a weak area that was not made strong enough. Find a good Welder and grind it out, weld and add some thicker steel to beef it up.
Its from internal stress created from the welding and not reheating the steel to relieve the stress. Once the crack starts it will spread out to the entire piece
Manufacturing defect the bolts are designed to give before the part yes weld it 7018 drill stop crack make a nice angle weld it hot. I looked at my kioti ck 4010 I noticed some porosity on the welds on my tractor
Unless you bought your tractor just for Sunday parades, it'll eventually get pushed to its limits. I've done all the same things with way too big boulders & logs, back blading, etc. Some bushings are showing wear on the loader but never had cracks like that show up. Could be just a fluke but I suspect there's some steel components from China there which contributed to the problem. I'd have tried to weld it up and slapped 'er back on before dropping the $600 on another one. But that's me being a tightwad. You probably made the right move getting a new component. Your narrative delivery always gets me chuckling. Educational & also entertaining videos - a great combination!
The weld in the corner above it has slag embedded in it. Poor weld, and I would grind both out and weld them. It's worth welding both , although you are going to have to grind from the top all the way down into the corner slag to get at it.
I have I have contacted Coyote dealership in North Carolina and I asked for a representative or someone in a technical department to speak with the situation broken brackets on lower brackets response click I will never buy another Coyote tractor again
@@MarkMenard-oz3ci I bought the same tractor CK3510 in gear version back in 2021 and at my age it's the last one. I also have a [07] Kubota L3400dt and can tell you that the loader mount is 10 times stronger then Kioti, but I'm not sure about the newer Kubota's. So this year based on your video I'm going to try find away to make the Kioti loader mount stronger....... I bought Kioti because I feel Kubota has ONE BIG GIGANTIC FLAW that no one else but me has an issue with!!!!! The issue that needs to be looked at when buying a tractor is, where is the rear Top-Link mounted to, ALL L Series Kubota's is on the rear of trans case, where the trans fluid and 10,0000 gears are. So when an attachment like my pto winch top-link is hook to rear of trans case, 75% of pulling force is on the top-link, and in my case it cracked my trans case, which is $3,000.00 just in parts for repair, the repair I did is another story..... Right now I know of 3 tractors that DONT have top-link mounted to trans case JD, which cost $8k more then Kioti and Bobcat which from what I see is a white Kioti. These top-links are mounted to the top lift housing, if that breaks the repair is 10 times easier and will cost less........ At the time I bought my CK I had 3 tractor choices with dealers within 40 miles, JD, New Holland and Kioti, other brands was 50+ miles away..........
Weld it! Good video! Now you got me thinking I should check my 3510 real good before I take it back to the dealer next week for repairs of the rear diff. Lock and PTO
I would have ground it out an re welded it before spending $600. Your dealer no way would take responsibility to replace it free of charge unless he was one of those exceptional guys!
I would bust out my $99 Yes welder and set on it while I burn some 7018 electrodes with my Hobart engine driven welder. 600 dollars is to much plus I break everything.
That's one nasty crack! The issue with the loader is pretty bad also, hopefully that's just a one-off problem but not a good sign cracking along the welds
Ok for the pro welders out there, how do you actually repair that? I’m assuming you have to grind some of that out but can anyone detail the procedure on how they’d go about that? Not going to tackle a job like that myself as a home farm welding novice because I wouldn’t trust my work. Just curious.
Probably too late but I’ll throw in my .02, I’ve done a little welding. First thing I would do is get all the paint off, then find the end of the crack and drill about a 3/16” or 1/4” hole at the end of it, if this step is skipped, it will continue to crack. Then I would take a cut off wheel and run it down the crack as far as possible. Everywhere else I would deeply bevel with either a stone wheel on and angle grinder or a carbide burr on a die grinder. In those areas I would also run a wire wheel down into the crack to remove any potential rust. Lastly I would wipe the whole area down with acetone. I would probably do this repair with a root pass then a cap pass instead of just one pass
I torque these and the rim bolts every 10 hours on my 3510. They get loose. I work mine very hard and have not broken one of these yet. Keep them properly torqued.
@@dave_1958 the loader bolts are 135 FT LBS. Top link plate is 50 FT LBS with grade 10 bolts (I upgraded from the metric grade 8). Rear wheels are 160 FT LBS. Front wheels you will have to look up. I think they're 135 also but I cant remember off from the top of my head.
Thank you for this document. You make it look easy ! Nevertheless, we don't ought to buy again this 650$ part too often. Let's use common sense. I won't blame either Kioti or the operator here for the damage, however I will share what Kioti salesman told me when I bought my CK4010 with this KL4030 loader on: ''Owww, this is not an industrial loader you know ! ! ! '' Read between the lines, for harder applications, we must use it in a gentle manner, not push too hard, with some delicacy, with extra care.
I have the same problem starting, noticed a small hairline crack starting, my buddy's going to repair it after the holiday. He said it was because they undercut the weld and that caused a weak spot. Basically, they never welded the edge.
You're correct...If it can be picked up we'll pick it up. This bracket should be designed to withstand the limits of the loader lift capacity. I'd say it is a design failure. Kioti is junk. I've had so many issues with my CK3510SE. Pathetic. But not this, yet. That $600 piece of steel cost the Co just about $56 to laser cut, bend, weld and powder coat. If I was near you I would have repaired it for you. Appears a combination of heat stress from several welds close together right near a sharp profile on the plate. You should ask the dealer and Kioti Corp to show you their FEA (finite element analysis) data in that area. FEA will show "hot" spots in the design. I'm betting that area is a weak spot. Good luck.
I don't have it handy, but it's stated in the KL loader operator's manual. They're supposed to be re-torqued periodically. Mine needed a little tightening at 50 hrs, probably from the powder coat wearing.
My questions is; What caused you to notice it was broke? Did the bucket lift funny, unusual movement in the frame? My frame was loose on the tractor. I noticed when lifting things that it was moving. The dealer hadn't installed all the bolts and they one's they did install was loose. I had to chase the treads on the bolt holes, use some new bolts and then used blue Loctite on all the bolts torquing them to specs.
As a retired CAT&CUMMINS knuckle buster and if I wanted real answers as to why it broke I would take it to a metallurgist. And from what I see in the video its been cracked a while. I say that because of the RUST in the crack! As for welding it if your not a CERTIFIED BRIDGE WELDER to me it would be a WASTE of time and electricity!!!
That isnt your falt i v broken or should i day that the loaded bracket on my 3510 has broken twice on both sides
It is a engineering problem and kioti redesigned the brackets and bucket ac Assembly in 2021 sp they you have it and i v contact thr corporate office and they refused to let me see a representative. I'm picking my tractor up for the fourth time of replacement of the bracket as you told me too hard on equipment that's three-quarter inch steel bucket assembly, and pistons blown out or bent before that bracket broke never buy, Coyote.
Love the attitude. Fixable by a good welder.
Bevel the crack out and weld it with a 7018,I just bent the the curl cylinders on my tractor,gonna cost me two arms and two legs...
I have a CK 30, with the KL 130 Loader attachment.
Neighbor up the road gave us the tractor, he is 86. he bought it for a guy and family to use living on the property...long story.
The tractor was beat up pretty bad as far as to maintenance. Has 635 hours.
Going over it once I got it home, discover the Loader Mounting bracket, similar to yours is cracked pretty bad.
Reason why mine is cracked, the 10 or so bolts that hold it on, 8 were sheared off from being loose. 1 1/2 were holding it on.
Right side had 2 sheared off, but that Bracket was not cracked.
When the Ram`s are pushing forward to lift, there is the other force pushing back, which caused it to twist and crack, Crack on mine looked almost the same as yours, plus a couple other areas.
This is one item in the pre=op and General maintenance to check at every oil change as per the Dealer.
Dealer said this is pretty common as the run of the mill week end tractor operator doesn`t have a clue.
They see it all the time.
They also said they do not weld them, just replace, as the will just crack again. But for $1000, I got mine welded up by a welder friend that has been doing it for 50 yrs.
On the CK 30 model, is a thick (cast Iron ?) Piece that will need to be replaced. The tractor needs to be seperated to replace it. Guy said sort of like a Bell Housing piece. On each lower side it is drilled with 4 holes for the big bracket, and the lower corner is broke off...Lucky me...and gave me a price for another $1000.
It`s in the shop (Dealer) now to have bolts drilled out etc... full service, new Ign Switch, (key broke off) and new seat belt.
Free Tractor probably $3500 +, still not a bad deal. + $110 new battery, and $298 for one front tire.
Hungry Beaver, looks to me yours is just a weak area that was not made strong enough. Find a good Welder and grind it out, weld and add some thicker steel to beef it up.
Shit happens ..... thanks for the laughs
Another feller had his rear axle crack on him. These lift more than they actually can.
Show a picture of the bucket, that will tell normal wear and tear or abuse
Could have repaired the old one for next to nothing.
It's not a skidsteer, them again you can get a bad cast
Material failure ! Not your fault. This should never have broken what ever you were doing with it. LOL. Good luck buddy.
Its from internal stress created from the welding and not reheating the steel to relieve the stress. Once the crack starts it will spread out to the entire piece
Good fun attitude. Feel it shouldn’t have happened, but who knows for sure.
Manufacturing defect the bolts are designed to give before the part yes weld it 7018 drill stop crack make a nice angle weld it hot. I looked at my kioti ck 4010 I noticed some porosity on the welds on my tractor
Unless you bought your tractor just for Sunday parades, it'll eventually get pushed to its limits. I've done all the same things with way too big boulders & logs, back blading, etc. Some bushings are showing wear on the loader but never had cracks like that show up. Could be just a fluke but I suspect there's some steel components from China there which contributed to the problem. I'd have tried to weld it up and slapped 'er back on before dropping the $600 on another one. But that's me being a tightwad. You probably made the right move getting a new component. Your narrative delivery always gets me chuckling. Educational & also entertaining videos - a great combination!
The weld in the corner above it has slag embedded in it. Poor weld, and I would grind both out and weld them.
It's worth welding both , although you are going to have to grind from the top all the way down into the corner slag to get at it.
It's Kioti's fault for not making that main support housing strong enough. Good video thanks for posting.
I have I have contacted Coyote dealership in North Carolina and I asked for a representative or someone in a technical department to speak with the situation broken brackets on lower brackets response click I will never buy another Coyote tractor again
@@MarkMenard-oz3ci I bought the same tractor CK3510 in gear version back in 2021 and at my age it's the last one. I also have a [07] Kubota L3400dt and can tell you that the loader mount is 10 times stronger then Kioti, but I'm not sure about the newer Kubota's. So this year based on your video I'm going to try find away to make the Kioti loader mount stronger.......
I bought Kioti because I feel Kubota has ONE BIG GIGANTIC FLAW that no one else but me has an issue with!!!!!
The issue that needs to be looked at when buying a tractor is, where is the rear Top-Link mounted to, ALL L Series Kubota's is on the rear of trans case, where the trans fluid and 10,0000 gears are. So when an attachment like my pto winch top-link is hook to rear of trans case, 75% of pulling force is on the top-link, and in my case it cracked my trans case, which is $3,000.00 just in parts for repair, the repair I did is another story.....
Right now I know of 3 tractors that DONT have top-link mounted to trans case JD, which cost $8k more then Kioti and Bobcat which from what I see is a white Kioti. These top-links are mounted to the top lift housing, if that breaks the repair is 10 times easier and will cost less........
At the time I bought my CK I had 3 tractor choices with dealers within 40 miles, JD, New Holland and Kioti, other brands was 50+ miles away..........
I would have welded it up with some 3/32 7818 welding rod before I would have bought a new one the factory welds on it didn't look too strong
tractor not bulldozer
Was that not covered under the warranty?
Weld it! Good video! Now you got me thinking I should check my 3510 real good before I take it back to the dealer next week for repairs of the rear diff. Lock and PTO
I would have ground it out an re welded it before spending $600. Your dealer no way would take responsibility to replace it free of charge unless he was one of those exceptional guys!
I would bust out my $99 Yes welder and set on it while I burn some 7018 electrodes with my Hobart engine driven welder. 600 dollars is to much plus I break everything.
That's one nasty crack! The issue with the loader is pretty bad also, hopefully that's just a one-off problem but not a good sign cracking along the welds
i would definitely weld it up...i'm assuming the loader is out of warr...
Ok for the pro welders out there, how do you actually repair that? I’m assuming you have to grind some of that out but can anyone detail the procedure on how they’d go about that? Not going to tackle a job like that myself as a home farm welding novice because I wouldn’t trust my work. Just curious.
Grind a v-groove along the entire crack then weld it up. Easy.
@@ericanderson8556 thanks
Probably too late but I’ll throw in my .02, I’ve done a little welding. First thing I would do is get all the paint off, then find the end of the crack and drill about a 3/16” or 1/4” hole at the end of it, if this step is skipped, it will continue to crack. Then I would take a cut off wheel and run it down the crack as far as possible. Everywhere else I would deeply bevel with either a stone wheel on and angle grinder or a carbide burr on a die grinder. In those areas I would also run a wire wheel down into the crack to remove any potential rust. Lastly I would wipe the whole area down with acetone. I would probably do this repair with a root pass then a cap pass instead of just one pass
I torque these and the rim bolts every 10 hours on my 3510. They get loose. I work mine very hard and have not broken one of these yet. Keep them properly torqued.
What is the torque on these bolts
@@dave_1958 the loader bolts are 135 FT LBS. Top link plate is 50 FT LBS with grade 10 bolts (I upgraded from the metric grade 8). Rear wheels are 160 FT LBS. Front wheels you will have to look up. I think they're 135 also but I cant remember off from the top of my head.
@@geremychubbuck3730 thank you !!
Camp Silkie sent me over. I liked, subscribed and am watching.
600 dollars!!!! thats an easy weld repair...
Looks under engineered.
Bevel the crack out and press it back together and weld her up for a spare! Definitely.
Slap some new paint on it and it should be good to go. I go next month to check the kioti tractors as I want one.
BTW weld that sucker up.
This should never break. I’ve put mine thru H and never a crack.
Thank you for this document. You make it look easy ! Nevertheless, we don't ought to buy again this 650$ part too often. Let's use common sense. I won't blame either Kioti or the operator here for the damage, however I will share what Kioti salesman told me when I bought my CK4010 with this KL4030 loader on: ''Owww, this is not an industrial loader you know ! ! ! '' Read between the lines, for harder applications, we must use it in a gentle manner, not push too hard, with some delicacy, with extra care.
Kioti. K eye Oh Tee, not. Key Oh Tee
Oh Key Dokie
I have the same problem starting, noticed a small hairline crack starting, my buddy's going to repair it after the holiday. He said it was because they undercut the weld and that caused a weak spot. Basically, they never welded the edge.
What did you torque the loader bolts too, I can’t find in answer in my manual.
That should of been covered by the warranty.. is your tractor out of warranty??
I have had a couple of older tractors with loaders. They all had weld repairs in several places. Things like that happen.
You're correct...If it can be picked up we'll pick it up. This bracket should be designed to withstand the limits of the loader lift capacity. I'd say it is a design failure. Kioti is junk. I've had so many issues with my CK3510SE. Pathetic. But not this, yet. That $600 piece of steel cost the Co just about $56 to laser cut, bend, weld and powder coat. If I was near you I would have repaired it for you. Appears a combination of heat stress from several welds close together right near a sharp profile on the plate. You should ask the dealer and Kioti Corp to show you their FEA (finite element analysis) data in that area. FEA will show "hot" spots in the design. I'm betting that area is a weak spot. Good luck.
Hey man, how many hours have you got on it?
What is the torque setting for the loader mount bolts?
I don't have it handy, but it's stated in the KL loader operator's manual. They're supposed to be re-torqued periodically. Mine needed a little tightening at 50 hrs, probably from the powder coat wearing.
If you use that loader when the brackets on a tractor were loose it could have Twisted the bracket and made a crack
I'd definitely weld it then take a piece of strap and weld front to back so that area can't spread out again
My questions is; What caused you to notice it was broke? Did the bucket lift funny, unusual movement in the frame?
My frame was loose on the tractor. I noticed when lifting things that it was moving. The dealer hadn't installed all the bolts and they one's they did install was loose. I had to chase the treads on the bolt holes, use some new bolts and then used blue Loctite on all the bolts torquing them to specs.
I vote weld. Especially if it's going to be a backup. Good video. 👍🍻🤠