I'm a 56 year old female. My husband passed away and had always taken care of vehicles. I am now learning important things to know like this. Thank you.
I always have a hard time getting the thingy on the tire thingy and it seems like air leaks out and I wonder if I am even getting any air in or wasting my $2
@@kaytriott the part we use is called and air chuck, and the part on the tire is the valve stem . Always best to buy a pressure gauge from a parts store they are only a few dollars. 😊
Here’s a tip: the paid timer gas station air supplies have you racing around your vehicle to beat the clock. Park appropriately, take off all valve covers, and quickly slightly overinflated each tire. Don’t waste time checking pressures while pump is giving you air. Then use a quality tire gauge with air bleeder button (I like Intercomp brand and keep one in each truck) and gently bleed each down to your exact desired pressure.
Good idea if one must pay for air. I refuse. Discount/America's Tire will air you up for free, just drive up.. And/or buy a reliable inflator, use it at home.
@@recoveringsoul755 No, DT/AT do not use/sell N2, never have. They use the good old fashioned and 'free'; 78%N2 air. Bought tires there since early 2000s, been very satisfied. Also, free proper (USTMA) (wheel and tire off, inside tire plug-patch w/rebalance) puncture repair to all, no purchase needed. So air up free, and keep a good gauge in trunk or glove box, check occasionally.
On most tires it says *maximum pressure.* It does not say normal operating pressure. That maximum pressure is the pressure above which there is a significant risk that the tire will blow off the rim and cause you to lose control of the vehicle if you fill it above that pressure when the tire is cold and then if you run the vehicle at highway speeds long enough to heat the tire up a lot.
I have argued with tires shops so many times about this exact same topic. They always want to inflate to the tires' max, and I tell them don't go beyond what is listed inside my door. They never listen, and then I am standing there letting air out right in front of them before I leave. The tires I buy say 51psi max, but my truck says 35 psi. I typically run with slightly more than my door says, but only a few pounds. Like between 37 and 40. Usually 40 on the front where the engine weight is, and 37 on the rear with an empty bed. If I am hauling a lot of weight I add air to the rear tires, and if it's a heavy load I put the full max 51 psi. As soon as I am done hauling I let the air back out to 37.
Well done. Would add three things; 1) you can drive up to most tire shops and they'll check and correct tire pressure in each tire for free. You don't have to get out of the car, you don't need an appointment, and it's generally done in real time. 2) Tires should be checked at least once a month because all tires leak air. 3) If the outside temp changes by 40 or more degrees for an extended period of time, you'll need to correct the air pressure (most of us don't have nitrogen filled tires). Many thanks for the great vid!
No way some jackleg Auto shop guy is gonna drop what he's doing to check your tires, your not money and are a waste of time, if some long Legged pretty Asian babe pulls up he will check her tires and drop the Monkey wrench on his toes to get to her car.
I always keep a tire pressure gauge in the glovebox and an air pump in trunk. I've also found 32psi to be a pretty safe bet for topping up a vehicle you are unfamiliar with. I've helped plenty of people running around with 15psi in their tires. It's kinda scary thinking about how many car are driving highway speeds on under inflated tires
There's plenty of folks out there running around with 35psi or whatever in their tires and wearing a strip down the middle of the tire. That's bad personal economics. You got it, guy
I have found, through many years of airing-up my own tires, that 30-32psi gives me the most even tread wear. That, plus rotation, will give you maximum life.
I mainly keep a little 12v compressor in the trunk just in case I have to use my spare tire. I check the psi a couple times a year but these cheapo temporary spares leak down fast compared to real tires.
How fast the tire inflates is directly related to what pressure your air tank regulator is set on. Filling a tire with 40 psi coming through the air hose takes a bit longer than if the regulator is set up to 90 psi. Use a good pressure gauge and check your pressure often when filling them up. Just drive up to Discount Tire, they check it for free. They may not make the pressure perfect but it's probably a lot better than 95% of the tires on the road right now.
When I serviced aircraft tires, taking the up to 250 psi, we would use 500 psi line pressure. It would still take time to raise the pressure five pounds.
Had replacement tires installed at Discount Tire. Something felt odd while driving down the freeway. Got home and checked the pressure after the tires got to ambient. They were all spot on at max rated pressure. Maybe new guy?
Good video, Lou......many people just don't realize how essential correctly inflated tires are to safe driving. The only thing I would emphasize, (as other commenters have) is to BUY A GOOD QUALITY AIR GUAGE for every car you own. Keep it in the glove box. Also get a 12 Volt air pump and keep it in the trunk. You rarely have tire problems in the parking lot of a tire store......it always happens at the WORST time or situation imaginable....BE PREPARED. Thanks for posting this.
@@tomsnow51 Of course. I was only pointing out the tire related stuff. I always have a spare tire and jack, cheater bar for loosening lug nuts, flashlight, basic tools, blanket and emergency drinking water, spare key, towel, (remember the Hitchhiker's Guide To The Galaxy) etc. As a former Boy Scout, I always try to "Be Prepared". 😀
One tip I think he forgot to mention is to always check your tires after having your oil changed or after having your tires rotated/balanced since the tech checking the tires will usually pump too much air in them. Check them when they are cold though like the morning after the oil change.
I wouldn’t say “usually”, I haven’t changed my own oil in years and have only had an issue with over inflation once, but it did happen. I actually had to fight with the service tech to lower the pressure (he’d inflated the tire to the maximum PSI rating for the tire) back down to something closer to what the vehicle was rated for. He refused to do it until I called his boss out and his boss told him where to look for the correct pressure setting. I only found out because I read his service report, if I hadn’t done that I wouldn’t have known until I checked the tires myself in a month or so.
As a 12 year tire tech veteran I can confirm every word of this video is correct and accurate. Now please good sir master tech, teach them to adjust their side view mirrors. I'd guess more than 90% of the vehicles I pull in have less than half the view they should have for safe driving.
I remember when my son went to a driving school session provided by a major tire manufacturer. The instructor stated that everyone knows what the side if their vehicles look like, you don’t need to see it in your mirrors. You mirrors should be adjusted so that you just see a tiny bit of your door panel. What works for me is using the rear handles as a reference.This provides a wider range of vision off the side of your vehicle. 😊
Growing up i was always told to make sure that you have the right type of air in the tires. It was one or the other summer / winter. That only lasted till I started driving and in auto shop. Man was I gullible. Good on you for informing others👍.
After years of driving different vehicles with different tires I judge by the sticker in the door jam first, then observing the wear. If wear is heavy in the center of the tire it's overinflated. Rule #1.
You're exactly correct in doing this. I've heard, but not confirmed, that over-inflating greatly shortens the life of the tire, but inflating to the door sticker cuts gas mileage. Of course if it's so over-inflated that it wears in the center then that would definitely shorten the longevity of the tire.
Not to beat a horse dead but, have a senior citizen neighbor I help out with vehicles from time to time. Her son firmly believes max tire pressure is the correct psi, and there's no changing his mind. I've been helping out with tire psi (placard) for her. Son came by yesterday and broke out the compressor. So, checked out tires on Civic today, placard 30psi. Cold morning psi, 44, 45, 48, and 49psi respectively. I was SMDH. I reduced all them to 32psi, mom owner wanted and knows what I did. At least taking air out easier than inflating. She has a Ranger truck, I didn't check yet, but can't wait to see tire pressure on those. /s
It’s doesn’t matter when you inflate them because the pressure fluctuates throughout the day based on air temperature and heat from usage. Every change of 10 degrees in air temperature causes your tire pressure to fluctuate 1-2 psi. So if you inflate them before sunrise, then they’re over-inflated at noon. You want to inflate the tires during the time of day that you mostly drive, which likely isn’t before sunrise. And rather than the coolest part of the day, or the hottest part of the day, it’s best to inflate them at the average temperature of the day/week. So if the temperature is between 60-80F that day/week, then inflate them at 70F, which might be 10AM or 6PM, that way you have the least variance. Of course you can still inflate them at whatever time of day is convenient for you, just be sure the tires are cold, and adjust the air pressure based on the temperature you’re inflating them at. So if you inflate them at 60F, but the average temperature for the day/week is 70F, then under inflate them by 1-2 psi. If you’re driving through Death Valley at high noon in the middle of summer, adjust the air pressure for that temperature. Give it a try. Since you already inflate your tires before sunrise, check the air pressure at the hottest time of the day. It may not be much on a day that only fluctuates 10-20F, but on a day that fluctuates 20-40F it could make a big difference.
@@LuckyCharms777 i believe matt means is not Ambient temp,is the tires that get hit by direct sunlight, on my trailer i see as much as 3 psi difference from the tire on the shade side vs the sun side. But when checked during the night they are even. this is without using the trailer for weeks
@@mandytuning Oh, okay, thanks for letting me know, that’s not something that I’ve even considered before. It’s interesting that sunlight caused such a difference in air pressure, but it only makes sense especially considering how hot it can make a vehicle interior. I guess I need to start checking air pressure at night too, and adjust according to expected daytime temperatures. Thanks a lot for sharing!
Nice video. I always follow the sticker in the driver door jam. I used to go by the tire’s max pressure then realized the auto manufacturers put those stickers on the car for good reason and probably should follow their instructions on how to properly maintain my tires.
Thanks for the nice comments, the sticker is the guideline and what the manual and manufacturers recommended. Sure theres cases youll need more pressure but there is no magic answer. I was tryin to raise awareness of the sticker. Thanks for watching!
I always set it at 32 cold pressure. During my driving, i can see the pressure increase to 36. If you dont want your tire to blow up, dont over inflate it. When it was new, the tire pressure was at 50 psi. The dealer did not deflate it to the correct pressure.
As part of 'PDI'(pre-delivery inspection), the dealer is supposed to lower the tire pressures from their shipping value to what is on the vehicle door frame placard, or as I would - one PSI over, to protect the customer, who may never check the pressures until their first oil change, from themselves.
The tire pressure written on the vehicle is for the stock tires with the stock rims. If you have chosen to alter your vehicle, the air pressure may change, example there is often a difference between snow tires verus stock street tires versus low profile wide tires on taller rims.
yup, you go by the tire and what that manufacturer recommends not the door.. This doesn't mean go max psi the tire indicates.. If you go by the door sticker and the tires or rims are different could cause wear problems etc..
@@IbanezGuitarz87 Check with your tire dealer or tech! Many high performance tire manufacturers have recommendations for various upgrades. Back in my day B.F.Goodrich, for the T/A performance line, had a whole book on tire size and pressures and how to calculate the proper pressure for the application. caveat: "back in my day" I probably had to explain a couple of times a week the difference between a radial and a bias ply tire.
@@uview1 Nope. Nuance. No one said it was trash or wrong, just that there may be an alternative. The difference is seldom more than a couple of psi. The sticker is always safe for any of the tire sizes listed. Generally, the car manufacturers want a nice ride. Tire manufacturers want better wear and performance. Neither want to compromise safety. We were all talking about putting on a different size tire and wheel which changes the volume and therefore the load/pressure figure for that tire. Since you usually go up in size not down, for that case the sticker may be a little high. Worst that will do is wear out the center of the tread faster. It is not a safety problem.
I had a flat repaired not long ago and the shop put 42psi in (I run 35) which I knew right away because my KIA has a tpws that shows actual air pressure in each tire pretty much in real time. And these are guys who are supposed to know what they’re doing.
@@jeanenviedapprendre Recently had to use my donut spare, which was never used or checked in 18 years, lol. I was surprised that it appeared inflated when I took it out, but the reality upon installing it and checking the air pressure after it looked low with weight on it, is that it had about 10psi compared to the 80psi it was supposed to have. Still, it was enough to get me to the gas station 1.5 miles away to fill it compared to the completely flat regular tire.
This is great video My local Costco puts nitrogen in tires when you buy from them. Last year they installed brand new two filling stations and guess what it’s nitrogen. If you have local Costco check you can get free nitrogen.
THANK YOU. Been arguing with a couple of the men in my life about this for YEARS. They won't listen to a "girl," but now I can point them to a video by a car dude and maybe I'll get through to them.
Good info. I would add one thing: it is best to use your own gauge, and the same gauge every time. It may not be perfectly accurate, but it will tell you how much air your tires are losing over a period of weeks. The gauge at a service station air pump may be even less accurate, and the accuracy of one gauge to another is likely to vary, so if you don't use the same pump with the same gauge at the same service station, every time you put air in your tires, the difference in accuracy between any 2 of gauges may fool you as to how fast your tires are losing air. Just use the same gauge. And don't drop it! A good bang may either change its accuracy or damage it so that it doesn't work at all. A cheap stick gauge is usually accurate enough. But use a gauge that shows your tires' pressure roughly in the middle of the gauge's range. That is where it is the most accurate. So for example if your tire is supposed to have 30 psi, use a gauge that goes from 10 psi to 50 or 60, and not a gauge that goes from 20 to 100.
@@tyrellhawkins9230 I'm not quite sure what ou are asking. By "so it won't get blow out" to you mean so that the tire won't get a blow-out? If that is what you mean then the answer is by using a tire pressure gauge to keep the tire at a correct pressure, and by using a tread gauge to make sure the tire has adequate tread you will minimize the chances that the tire will get a blow out but you can still get a blow out if, for example you strike a road hazard, say a "pot-hole" (a hole in the road) or a sharp object that cuts into the tread or the sidewall. If the tire has the correct pressure a pot hole is less likely to cause a blowout, or a flat. If there is plenty of tread left, road hazards are less likely to cause a flat or a blowout.
@@soilmanted thanks for information and I just saying that because I went to discount tire a few days ago and they told me that my REAR Back tire got 4 cracks in it and my Front passenger tire needs a whole another wheel and they said they can’t replace it. Then I went to Belle Tire for tires inspection and they were using a Tire Tread gauge and they told me that my rear back tire is number 4 and the other three were 6,6, and 8 and so I wanna know is having a good tire tread for safety when the tread is messed up… because I ordered one 2days ago
@@soilmanted thanks for information and I just saying that because I went to discount tire a few days ago and they told me that my REAR Back tire got 4 cracks in it and my Front passenger tire needs a whole another wheel and they said they can’t replace it. Then I went to Belle Tire for tires inspection and they were using a Tire Tread gauge and they told me that my rear back tire is number 4 and the other three were 6,6, and 8 and so I wanna know is having a good tire tread for safety when the tread is messed up… because I ordered one 2days ago
I remember a good few years ago, my brother got his tyres changed and came to see me after. He said the ride was a bit rubbish since, I asked him whether he'd checked the tyre pressures and he said the fitter had inflated then to 45 or 47psi and stated that was the correct tyre pressure. He had 15in wheels with 185/55 on his Vauxhall Corsa and they're supposed to be around 30... I then explained that his tyre fitter was wrong (always fun explaining to people how 'professionals' are wrong) and that his overly inflated tyre would've had poor contact patch with the ground and been pretty dangerous in the rain. I also explained the door sticker at that point. So bad the misinformation out there, it's a good thing that at least the correct information provided by people like yourself can end up offering people some insight as it's clearly done here. 😊
This video could not have come at a better time. I’ve been driving around with flat tires for years. Now after this video, I can fill my tires air. Thank you!!!
My dad taught me about the importance of tyre pressures over 60 years ago. My driving instructor taught me about the importance of correct tyre pressures. I always thought every driving instructor did the same. Obviously, they don't. And I always check my tyres every 2 weeks and use a foot pump to top up if necessary. Maybe some people think I'm sad, but hey, I don't care.
Not sad at all, my neighbors probably think I have holes in my tires or something, I check them every two weeks or so as well. It's a good idea to know all about your car, I mean we depend on it with our lives.
Almost every one has become reliant on warning lights. I recommend everyone check at every fuel fill but always as you walk to your car doesnt hurt to take a glance at your tires.
I didn't know to go by the door sticker until I heard rainman ray say it. He also explained that the number on the tire is different because it can fit different vehicles that may require different pressures, therefore as you stated, it is only the max pressure that the tire is rated for.
Do you feel the difference? I recently had high rear pressures (after towing+ a big load in the back) with no load -- lots of oversteer if I came into corners quick! Wet braking would be better too with correct pressures:)
@@nomercyinc6783 its there because vehicle chassis' have rated loads, and have certain weights. I can put the same tyres on a 1 tonne camry as a 2.5T hilux, provided they are rated to support the PSI both vehicles need, but if I put the hilux PSI rating on the camry, they will bulge in the middle and wear rapidly in the middle, while having reduced traction, and the other way around they will bulge on the edge, and the edges will wear rapidly and the tyre could even come off while cornering.
Agree, that is unfortunate. What's also unfortunate, when those same "service people" and even average joe shown the correct psi, i.e., placard psi as Lou states, they still want to believe it's max pressure on tire sidewall. Just read some comments here.
I go by the sticker on the door for the correct psi. For my Challenger is 32 psi on all four tires. I have a longacre analog tire pressure gauge that's extremely accurate and a portable hand held air inflator that works great.
I carry my trusty digital air pump with me at all times. I have it set to the correct pressure, so that if ever ,I need to put air in my tires, the air pump will automatically shut off when reaching the desired pressure. Saves having to get to an air pump.
Thank you for this advice about inflating your tyres with Nitrogen, I wasn't aware of that benefit! A lot of commercial companies and including the military paint the tyre pressure on the top of the wheel arch. On your civvie car you can paint the 'official instruction manual' tyre pressure on the tyre valve stem.
@@billmmckelvie5188 Sorry, I was imagining a scenario where only you inflated your tires. By the way, after watching this video, I came across a few articles concluding nitrogen in passenger vehicle tires is overrated. Apparently the NHTSA did a study, and so did Consumer Reports, that it doesn’t make a great difference in fuel consumption or tire life compared to just regularly checking air pressure. The greatest benefit for consumers is not needing to check tire air pressure regularly, although I recall hearing that blowouts can be less severe as well, but with proper tire pressure there are surely less blowouts. Between the cost to fill with nitrogen and the inconvenience of filling stations, there just wasn’t much of a benefit to make it worthwhile.
@@LuckyCharms777 I agree entirely with regular checking. In the UK we used to use a code word as an aide memoir for checking you car. P.O.W.E.R. Petrol, Oil, Water, Electrics, Rubber. I am old school were we used to have to check points, distributor cap and spark plugs, a slightly sandy residue on the plugs indicated a healthy engine Depending on your mileage your frequency of checking all your levels should be at least fortnightly (8,000 to 10,000 annual mileage) or weekly if you prefer. Fleet use has to be at the start of your shift due to our law. Thanks to integral tyre compressors everything is far more convenient than previously!
When the engineers at Ford found that the explorers we're prone to rolling over their "fix" was to lower the tire pressure. So looking at the recommended inflation's for that Mercedes has 28 psi in the front. At that pressure the tires will be trashed in no time. So I'll stick to running mine at 40 psi in town and 50 psi for highway use on a 51 psi max tire .
I always got a 12V air pump and gauge in my cars. Vacuum-cleaner/air-pump combo works quite nicely and has a built-in gauge that's remarkably accurate (within 1psi). Still, that small gauge is hard to read accurately, so I always also carry a nice big GH Meisner gauge to verify pressures all-around.
I have a 12v inflator but decided to get a battery operated one as well. One month after buying and the cost is long forgotten. The battery unit is perfect for topping off, and ther 12v is always in reserve if the battery runs low.
I 've ran the max tire pressure stated on any of my vehicle tires for over 20 years. There is no question that improves the MPG, but it's a bit rougher ride.
I have found that slightly overinflating my tires delivers an extra 1-2 MPG. I originally had Michelin Primacy tires that said max pressure was 45 psi so I filled them to 38 psi. I have switched to Cross Climate with a max pressure of 50 psi so I am experimenting with 40 psi. I think that as long as you don't mind a slightly harsher ride and stay well under the max pressure rating that keeping tires a bit overinflated (using an accurate gauge to monitor it) can save you a buck or two each tank of gas.
The sticker on the inside of the door is a good recommendation if you keep the stock tire size. However, if you change wheels/tires and they are a different size from the factory size, that sticker isn’t the most accurate recommendation.
I find that you need to inquire of the tire manufacturer of the correct pressure when not replacing with OEM, they do differ. A harder or softer compound requires different pressure, especially if you swap Summer and Winter tires. You also need to monitor your pressures seasonally. There is a big difference in pressure with 90 degree ambient and 30 degree even if you do not switch compounds.
As a 20 year professional if someone asked me this question I would tell them USE THE PRESSURE PROVIDED ON THE DOOR LABEL. You are 100% incorrect, if the tire size is the same as the OEM, the pressure needs to be the same, regardless of tire compound.
@@robertkorn In a static world I would not be interested in arguing. However, the 'cold' PSI driving in Houston in the summer or Duluth in the winter has an operating PSI that would differ greatly, maybe 10 PSI. I know driving my sports car aggressively can alter the 'hot' PSI 4+ pounds. Maybe the recommended pressure is an average, but almost never optimal for longevity, MPG or performance.
@Dave blockhead read his comment next time before trying to answer. His response HAD NOTHING to do with your weather. He is strictly responding to the previous post regarding tire materials. Again learn to read. Its fundamental.
Using smaller compressors take more time. Usually the pancake and small cylinder types are about 3 seconds for 1 psi on a car tire. My pickup (275/7017) seems to be closer to 4 seconds. I’ve even had one max out putting in 70 psi with a load on the truck. Wish I had a compressor with more volume and pressure. Oh 1/4” fittings with 3/8” hose.
Trying to inflate 33in tyres with a cordless compressor takes like...60s per psi ;) The ARB twin air is good apparently. I love the Sherpa Big Air, but you pay for it, in weight too :)
I got tired of trying to find a gas station air fill that wasn't spitting water out so I bought one of those portable tire fill air compressors and do it at home myself. Takes a little longer, but at least I get dry air. I don't rely on it's analog gauge, I simply slightly overfill, and then back off a little using a high end digital air gauge.
@@GrampalettasCamp Because there's no water condensation in the small unit, at least none that can be seen or felt. At the gas station you can literally see water spraying out by pressing the valve.
@@Joseph1NJ When you compress air into a tank, the water condenses out in that tank. It can be drained off or filtered out (or both). When you use a compressor with no tank and fill the tire directly, the water condenses out in the tire. The amount will depend on the humidity when you fill the tire.
You aren’t getting drier air. The condensation is simply happening in your tire rather than in the air hose. If you feel how hot your little compressor gets you will see why. It is hard to condense water out of hot air, but once the air cools in your tire, the water will condense inside your tire.
I had a flat and had the tire repaired by a shop that I was not familiar with. Later I noticed an odd shaking when I got on the interstate. I took it to my regular mechanic and he found that the tire had about a QUART of water in it.
I had a similar experience where I started to get odd shaking in the front end. Went to a great shop where they told me the tire patch that was done elsewhere had finally begun to bulge, giving me an actual bump on the tire itself.
"Master Tech Lou" is in CYA mode due to liability exposure. I have been a Hypermiler for over 40 years, I used to compete in fuel economy events nationwide. If one drives relatively slow, does not corner like a race car driver, and prioritzes MILES PER GALLON, there is nothing wrong with inflating tires up to sidewall max......which is 44 PSI in most tires. I ALWAYS overinflate, and currently am driving 2,100 miles per week on the highway. My tires ALWAYS end up with perfectly even wear across the tread, as modern steel belted radials are very stiff and strong. Currently I drive a 2020 Toyota Prius L ECO, which I purchased new. I already have 280,00 miles on the odometer. Have averaged 81.55 MPG during this time. For sure, the stock Bridgestone Ecopia 422+ rubber does a good job, they are LRR tires, with a hard rubber compound and computer optimized tread pattern. The size is 195/65/15. So remember, for maximum fuel economy, you want tall, skinny tires, NOT low profile aftermarket ones. Drive a little slower than normal and put air in tires up to sidewall max. Use MOMENTUM techniques such as looking WAY ahead to the next stoplight and try to seldom use the brakes.....
hey glad to hear! again as I have stated numerous times the only goal of this video was to show of the sticker spec. from there, you can over or under inflate as needed for each individual case. thanks for watching and reaching out!
No, water does not damage the inside of your tyre. The most obvious way to know that is because you have never seen an old tyre damaged from the inside by water, but they all have water in there throughout their lifetime, as it is not avoidable when putting air in there in the usual fashion, e.g. at home / at the gas station. The inside and the outside of the tyre are made of the same rubber, and the outside is exposed to water all the time and does not get damaged, or else we would not make tyres of rubber. The seals in your water pipes are made of rubber, the seal in your tyre valve is made of rubber, most water tightening seals are made of rubber, it is not reactive to water. The reason you do not want water in your tyre is pressure control. If a litre of water changes in to the gaseous phase, it expands to ca 1 cubic metre, i.e. a factor of 1,000. So having even a little bit of water can have a substantial effect on tyre pressure as the tyre gets warm or even hot due to outside air temperature and/or driving style - but we want to keep our pressure in a controlled range for reliable performance. That is because while water fully changes to the gaseous phase at boiling point / 100 C, some of it always changes to a certain degree as a chemical property of water, even below 100 C, so if a tyre has 30-40-50 C, that already has an effect despite being nowhere near the boiling point. If all you ever do is local trips to the Starbucks, the water in a tyre does not matter, as it never heats up in a substantial way, and if it did, the driving conditions would be well below the tyre's limit. But if you hit the Autobahn for 5 hours on a hot summer day, it matters. That is why some manufacturers will also tell you to measure the pressure at e.g. 20 C, and also specify speed limits for a given tyre pressure. "Cold" tyres means different things to different people, especially seeing how fucking dumb the average person is ;) But of course tyres also have a wide range of acceptable pressure, so it rarely matters whether you check pressure at 18 or 23 C... My tyres even have 2 pressures to choose from, so what is the correct pressure is on a spectrum - it has to be - tyres take a lot of abuse from ignorance and their use cases throughout their lifetime. Therefore pure nitrogen only makes sense on the racetrack, as tyres don't usually get tortured that much on public roads.
Great information, thank you so much for the lesson on counting the seconds. I always put too much air in my tire but now that I have this information it will help me do a better job.
Really good info Lou for those unfamiliar with vehicle care. I also keep a very basic pen type gauge in the car mainly for consistency. Back in the 70's I had a after school /Saturday job as a bowser boy, engine check boy, tyre repair boy, floor sweeping boy. I learnt a lot about tyres and tube. So here's what is important about tyre pressure. 1 or 2 psi is not going to make cause much of an issue but 5 psi or greater is. Especially if the pressure in all 4 tyre's is different (yes it happens), unequal tyre pressures is a bigger issue than slightly high or low. As it can greatly affect handling and braking.
Thanks for the nitrogen explanation. Up til now I thought it was some kind of lame scam but it does make sense. I think aircraft may have the same in their tires but of course it’s 50 below and with far less ambient air pressure at 35,000 ft.
Great video, 1 part not mentioned I think would be important to speak on.. Can't you exceed the door sticker recommendation as long as you stay a bit under the tire max? For example, if the sticker recommendation is 35 PSI but your tire says Max 50 you could inflate to 40 without an issue to the tire. The ride may be slightly more stiff but rarely noticable and if your tires are wearing on both outer edges due to under inflation, this could also help it wear more evenly and lastly help with slightly better gas mileage although it's not very noticeable.
First off thanks for the nice comments. Secondly yes I can talk for hours on tires and pressure and all sorts of experiences, the goal was just to make aware of the sticker and an actual manufacturer recommendation. You are 100% correct on your statement.
@@MasterTechLou ok thanks for your reply and clarification. I know what you mean, I could talk for hours on stuff like this too lol. Thanks and take care.
You could do that, but your tyres won't last as long because they'll wear out down the centre of the tread, from being too rounded out, due to the excessive air pressure. There's usually a diagram of that in the vehicle's owner's manual.
Centre tread wear due to overinflation is not an issue with the radial tyres we've been using for the last 50 years. Not unless the tyres are very badly made, or the inflation pressure is dangerously high.
@@jublywubly please refer to what Mark said in the previous comment. It's almost exactly what I was going to reply to you about. I was not saying to overinflate by high levels, but 3-5 psi makes a difference when done properly. Also, some car manufacturers recommend a lower psi for comfort but that reduces the life of the tire as they will wear unevenly. Multiple mechanics have explained it the same to me which is why I mentioned it here to clarify options. After years of having inner edges worn prematurely I learned why it's not only an alignment that can cause this issue. It's your preference really but I hope this may help.
My next door neighbor bought new tires on sale for his truck early last spring and had the tire shop mount & balance them for him. He bought E rated 10ply tires. (nice tires) The tire shop employees told him they don't look at the tire pressure rating on the tire they look at the sticker on the door. They had inflated his new tires to 40 psi. The tires are rated for 80 psi max. 60 psi being the minimum. I pointed it out to him because the tires looked under inflated and if he expected to get decent life out of them, he had better read the tires inflation recommendation on the tires themselves. 50 year mech/tec.
I only run Max side wall PSI. Tires last longer, MPG is better, Handling is better due to stiffer sidewalls. Bumps are a little rougher, but the 3 other factors more than make up for that slight downside.
I decided to make this video when a 60 year old told me he never knew about the sticker and when a teenager filled his moms tires till "they looked full" . The only goal of this video is to show that there is a specification . If you start with the specification you can adjust from there based on your needs and circumstances. Some would think this was common knowledge, but its not. Hence the video. I appreciate those that watch and hope you find my videos helpful. If you do not, well then that is ok too. I recently had a chat with a Julian from Tire Rack regarding tires and the manufacturers pressure specification, there is none, you are to go by the placard on the car. tiresvote.com/articles/everything-you-need-know-about-contact-patch/ Lou
One point that may be of interest is that higher tire pressures can reduce fuel consumption, sometimes significantly. The recommended tire pressure table often shows a higher pressure for freeway driving. I think it doesn't hurt to use this higher pressure all the time.
*About that Mercedes fuel door label at **01:17**:* In 1966 I was hitch hiking in Germany and a Mercedes picked me up. On the autobahn he hit about 175 Km/hr (about 110 mph). Slower cars in the passing lane would notice him approaching and turn on their right turn signal and shift to right lane. *That's why the tire pressure label tells you how much to add if you are going to "autobahn" it.* BTW Wikipedia says there are still stretches with no enforced speed limit. One guy back then told me: "We are warriors at heart."
I had a GMC truck and would always go higher than what it said in the door frame because the recommended pressure always left my tires looking oddly low.
I just came in from my garage to put 3 pounds of air in each of my truck tires (it got cold). I come back to the computer and I see this video waiting on me. Weird! For reference, I use a little 2 gallon air compressor with a moisture drain at the bottom that cost me $100 and a hand held digital gauge that cost me about $10. My Ford app tells me the current tire pressure so that helps but I always use the gauge. Correct PSI is very important for several reasons and over the years I've become a bit of a "PSI nut".
I always look at the tire's maximum cold PSI rating and set it at that. air stabilizes the tire and the lower you go the more slop you get. I set my tires at 50 psi and it definitely has more grip at that pressure. anything less than 40 PSI and my tires will spin through first gear. I've been doing it for decades with no problems..
What do you call INTELLECTUAL AND PRODIGY AND ACCOMPLISHED ADD two more SUBSTANTIAL AND KNOWLEDGEABLE The answer is Master Tech lou My teacher God bless you for sharing it Take care and have a great Evening with all your family around you 👍 PROFICIENT Master Tech lou From Nick Ayivor from London England UK 🇬🇧
I wear safety glasses when pumping up my tires. The air pressure can blow dirt around or the air hose could rupture. I got an eye injury when I was younger welding with a oxy acetylene setup. Now I am careful to protect my eyes.
Thank you so much. I take my small Navion motorcoach to a truck tire service center. They always want to do what he says trucker do...up the PSI from tire to max tire PSI. Example my sticker inside door way is 61 PSI dang he bumps up to 65 or 67. I so confused but I sure trust you. Thanks.
I'm still trying to get my neighbor to do a seasonal charge of the battery, when you test it it says good but recharge.12.23. The air is a future project. 😄 Good video lou.👍🇨🇦
I got so tired of going to gas station and service station for air. Years ago I went and bought my own air pump to plug in at home. Kinda simple and silly how long it took to do that. Go buy your own pump folks lol. You can get decent priced ones out there. Save you time and do it right👍. Check em once a month or so. Maybe more in the cold months if it applies.
Best explanation of, and case for, nitrogen fill that I've heard. There's a rampant false-dichotomy argument about whether nitrogen fill improves fuel economy due to lighter weight, but this argument detracts from the actual benefits. Thank you!
Now if you were the ONLY person to ever watch this video , that would have been a win for me, I simply want to educate. Your comment alone, made my day. Thank you.,
Number 1 cause of tire failure is under inflation( we all fail under inflation) ! 2000+ - F250, specks from Ford recommend 32psi, tires put on truck for use in construction recommends Max load 80 psi, we haul bobcats, dumping trailers w/ bobcats in them !
i always fill to 38 psi I have pretty low profile tires ... Last night they were all down to the same exact pressure 31.5 psi all 4 tires I haven't checked them in over 2 month or so.. Plus, it was cold out down to 50° normally, it's pretty hot in Arizona.. But yeah, my lights didn't go on ,, I felt like the ride was a little mushy .. i was right.. My rims are all aftermarket, so I can't really go by what it says on the cars label.. When I got the rims at the pro tire rim shop, they Filled to 38 and they recommended around there.. Also, don't forget to check your spare... I have a mini donut tire it's 75 psi Always check it around the same time.. The psi in the spare tire was fine last night
I feel like I just got a software upgrade… mind blown. I’ve been overfilling my tires by 7PSI, consistently, for years, having never even noticed that sticker. Thanks for the humbling but enlightening info!
That was the main purpose of my video, I wonder how many walked out to the car to see the sticker and then check their tires to find they had a leak, or low tire. I am to help. that is it. thank you. Lou
@@madatown I’m not sure that’s true. My wife’s car is an AWD Rogue, and we recently replaced 1 of the 4 tires, which makes the computer go nutty and it’s loud at certain speeds because the height of that 1 tire is different from all of the others. Being off on pressure all these years may well have cost in terms of gas mileage, wear and tear etc. If there’s a right way to do something, I’d prefer to know about it and at least attempt to do it that way.
@@michaelkeymont501 There is some wiggle room in inflation specs. About the only thing 7 psi over the door jamb sticker value will get you is a slightly rougher ride and theoretically better fuel economy. With regard to your tire replacement issues, if the older tires were worn that much, it might have been a good idea to replace the one on the opposite end of that axle at the same time.
@@billyjack3580 they actually weren’t that bad, but since this is AWD, from what I’ve read and been told, the computer tries to compensate for the mismatch and it causes excessive wear on the transmission. All I know is that it’s gotten LOUD and all of the tires are in decent shape. We’re probably going to replace them this one time and get rid of the car. It’s not worth the trouble if you have to spend a grand every time you get a flat tire. Yeah, I’ve never had any trouble with my slightly over-inflated tires, but it’s nice to know what they’re actually supposed to be inflated to instead of just guessing.
Subaru Outback states 32 front, because of rolling circumference, with engine weight. 30psi back, because of low weight. I split my higher pressures. 40psi front, and 38.5psi rear. Gas mileage, while traveling, goes up almost 4mpg.
Was helping my buddy yesterday get a trailer ready and noticed a low tire. He was having trouble reading the info on the tire so I did and said it says 85psi max at max load so do 55 and he got all upset because it also says on the tire not to exceed 30psi for seating the tire. He couldn't read the tire seating part and just assumed that was the correct pressure. I had my Harley on that trailer for 1500 miles and also a quad for another 1000.....now I'm realizing why we had that flat on that trailer when it was loaded with atvs. Guy never had it properly inflated
The higher the pressure in the compressor's storage tank, the drier the air. Compressing air reduces it's ability to hold water. The extra water falls to the bottom of the tank or any low points in the compressor system. It needs to be drained out periodically. Improperly maintained compressors can pump this collected water out and into a tire with the air. The more a compressor runs the more water will be collected and the more often it needs to be drained. Small compressors that just compress air to the tire pressure will deliver air with the most moisture in it to your tire. These are the coin operated compressors, and the small 12V or battery compressors. A little moisture is not likely to cause a problem, but a lot of moisture in the tire can affect tire / wheel balance.
I've seen tire shops and mechanics alike put too much air in tires. I always check after getting balanced or new tires installed and have to lower the pressure to a comfortable and safe ride.
Apprecieate the videos, Joe. This one could've been done in half the time or less, though, minus all the repetition. In short, add air to cold tires (not run) only unless you have emergency, and follow manufacturer recommendations (WHO consults owner's manuals?). I fill my tires at home (barring a puncture on the road) at home with my bicycle pump. BTW, ALL tires lose air over time. My winter tires typically need 5-7 lbs after sitting all warm season.
I think my door thing says 35psi. If I run my tires at 35psi, I get tire wear and it's obvious. I run my tires at 50psi and that seems to be the sweet spot. It seems like when I looked that the tire itself recommends 40-60psi.
Gas station air fillers always have too much water to it. I bought the Dewalt air compressor. It has a digital gauge as well as a number cutoff. If I set it to 35 psi, when it reaches approx 35.0 +/- .1 it automatically shuts off.
Fwiw, agree with you on tire pressure, vehicle placard psi it is. I might add ~2psi over. "Max" psi on tire side, a common misconception/mistake it seems. I always check and fill my tires when cold, that generally means early morning and before driving. Otoh, disagree about N2 fill. Combined with regular pressure checks, been using the 'free' 78%N2 for decades. EZ peazy. Never a problem with premature tire wear or rim corrosion. Where I purchase tires (major US tire chain), free rotations and balance to maintain tire warranty, and they use the free 78%N2 fill. They also offer free drive up air pressure check/fill for anyone. A good tire gauge a must to maintain tires/psi. If someone wants to give free N2 fill (not likely), I'd consider it. Otherwise, I'll stick with free 78% N2 type. Thanks for video.
My MB dealer does that whenever I take the car in for seasonal tire/rim swap in addition necessary maintenance. N2 pressure is stable not affected by temperature change greatly.
@@tonyhwang3888 No need for me to rehash my initial thought here. If you like N2, pay for it and use it. I won't. Only place I believe N2 needed, airplane tires. But that is quite different than passenger car use. As noted, I'll stick to the free 78% N2 and check pressure regularly. It's worked for me.
My car tires always has N2 in it. Dealer does not charge for N2. Green cap valves. PSI is set and monitored by ECU. MB does not use TPMS, BMW uses TPMS. Only cars we have in the garage. We have not had tire/rim problems very long time. Always two sets of tires/rims for summer and winter.
@@tonyhwang3888 Green caps meaningless to me. Bet there's lots of cars with green caps that are not 100% N2 or close. If it's 'truly' free and N2 gives you the warm fuzzies, fine. Extremely rare, truly free N2 fill. I agree with guy in vid, and there's many other similar vids. Science. ruclips.net/video/bCnWvMleVD0/видео.html
@@MasterTechLou if max pressure is 50 I will be between 45-50. Even if the car sticker says 32. I was told that helped with fuel economy also. Low rolling resistance.
I'm a 56 year old female. My husband passed away and had always taken care of vehicles. I am now learning important things to know like this. Thank you.
Thank you! This was made to make people aware.
I always have a hard time getting the thingy on the tire thingy and it seems like air leaks out and I wonder if I am even getting any air in or wasting my $2
@@kaytriott the part we use is called and air chuck, and the part on the tire is the valve stem . Always best to buy a pressure gauge from a parts store they are only a few dollars. 😊
Sorry for your loss. Be careful out there. My fiancé has been told a lot of interesting things about her car. It looks like Lou will steer you right.
@@alanhassall thank you.
Here’s a tip: the paid timer gas station air supplies have you racing around your vehicle to beat the clock. Park appropriately, take off all valve covers, and quickly slightly overinflated each tire. Don’t waste time checking pressures while pump is giving you air. Then use a quality tire gauge with air bleeder button (I like Intercomp brand and keep one in each truck) and gently bleed each down to your exact desired pressure.
I can agree with that
Good idea if one must pay for air. I refuse. Discount/America's Tire will air you up for free, just drive up.. And/or buy a reliable inflator, use it at home.
@@faxmen09 thanks for that info. Do they use nitrogen? First I've heard about nitrogen air in tires
@@recoveringsoul755 No, DT/AT do not use/sell N2, never have. They use the good old fashioned and 'free'; 78%N2 air. Bought tires there since early 2000s, been very satisfied. Also, free proper (USTMA) (wheel and tire off, inside tire plug-patch w/rebalance) puncture repair to all, no purchase needed. So air up free, and keep a good gauge in trunk or glove box, check occasionally.
theres a special place in hell for the cheap ass that decided to start charging (2 bucks in places !!!) for air....
I'v installed tires on cars ( and trucks ) for 35 + years , and i approve this video.
have a nice day . 😊
I'm a senior citizen and I only learned about four years ago to not look at the tire for the recommended pressure. This video provides a good service.
On most tires it says *maximum pressure.* It does not say normal operating pressure. That maximum pressure is the pressure above which there is a significant risk that the tire will blow off the rim and cause you to lose control of the vehicle if you fill it above that pressure when the tire is cold and then if you run the vehicle at highway speeds long enough to heat the tire up a lot.
Hey, better late than never. Fellow senior commenting.
I have argued with tires shops so many times about this exact same topic. They always want to inflate to the tires' max, and I tell them don't go beyond what is listed inside my door. They never listen, and then I am standing there letting air out right in front of them before I leave.
The tires I buy say 51psi max, but my truck says 35 psi. I typically run with slightly more than my door says, but only a few pounds. Like between 37 and 40. Usually 40 on the front where the engine weight is, and 37 on the rear with an empty bed.
If I am hauling a lot of weight I add air to the rear tires, and if it's a heavy load I put the full max 51 psi. As soon as I am done hauling I let the air back out to 37.
Well done. Would add three things; 1) you can drive up to most tire shops and they'll check and correct tire pressure in each tire for free. You don't have to get out of the car, you don't need an appointment, and it's generally done in real time. 2) Tires should be checked at least once a month because all tires leak air. 3) If the outside temp changes by 40 or more degrees for an extended period of time, you'll need to correct the air pressure (most of us don't have nitrogen filled tires). Many thanks for the great vid!
No way some jackleg Auto shop guy is gonna drop what he's doing to check your tires, your not money and are a waste of time, if some long Legged pretty Asian babe pulls up he will check her tires and drop the Monkey wrench on his toes to get to her car.
TIRE shop
I always keep a tire pressure gauge in the glovebox and an air pump in trunk. I've also found 32psi to be a pretty safe bet for topping up a vehicle you are unfamiliar with. I've helped plenty of people running around with 15psi in their tires. It's kinda scary thinking about how many car are driving highway speeds on under inflated tires
There's plenty of folks out there running around with 35psi or whatever in their tires and wearing a strip down the middle of the tire. That's bad personal economics. You got it, guy
I have found, through many years of airing-up my own tires, that 30-32psi gives me the most even tread wear. That, plus rotation, will give you maximum life.
Excellent practice to have good tire gauge in the trunk or glove box. And follow placard psi as directed in vid.
I mainly keep a little 12v compressor in the trunk just in case I have to use my spare tire. I check the psi a couple times a year but these cheapo temporary spares leak down fast compared to real tires.
Likewise. A nice dual-piston 12 volt compressor and a dial pressure gauge always in the vehicle.
How fast the tire inflates is directly related to what pressure your air tank regulator is set on.
Filling a tire with 40 psi coming through the air hose takes a bit longer than if the regulator is set up to 90 psi.
Use a good pressure gauge and check your pressure often when filling them up.
Just drive up to Discount Tire, they check it for free.
They may not make the pressure perfect but it's probably a lot better than 95% of the tires on the road right now.
Speed of inflation is also related to volume of air in the tire. A little tire will get there much quicker than a tire on a 2500 pickup
When I serviced aircraft tires, taking the up to 250 psi, we would use 500 psi line pressure. It would still take time to raise the pressure five pounds.
@@robertheinkel6225 I guess I should have also mentioned the volume issue, it’s always something slowing you down !
"Just drive up to Discount Tire, they check it for free." Bingo dude! DT/AT will do it for free, with a drive up. Great company.
Had replacement tires installed at Discount Tire. Something felt odd while driving down the freeway. Got home and checked the pressure after the tires got to ambient. They were all spot on at max rated pressure. Maybe new guy?
Good video, Lou......many people just don't realize how essential correctly inflated tires are to safe driving. The only thing I would emphasize, (as other commenters have) is to BUY A GOOD QUALITY AIR GUAGE for every car you own. Keep it in the glove box. Also get a 12 Volt air pump and keep it in the trunk. You rarely have tire problems in the parking lot of a tire store......it always happens at the WORST time or situation imaginable....BE PREPARED. Thanks for posting this.
Well said! thanks for reaching out!
Add a battery jumper combo because batteries can get weak . And it's never warm and sunny ! I think my combo was about $50.
@@tomsnow51 Of course. I was only pointing out the tire related stuff. I always have a spare tire and jack, cheater bar for loosening lug nuts, flashlight, basic tools, blanket and emergency drinking water, spare key, towel, (remember the Hitchhiker's Guide To The Galaxy) etc. As a former Boy Scout, I always try to "Be Prepared". 😀
One tip I think he forgot to mention is to always check your tires after having your oil changed or after having your tires rotated/balanced since the tech checking the tires will usually pump too much air in them. Check them when they are cold though like the morning after the oil change.
that's no tip, it would be too late , because air changes with climate so weekly check is more like it ,.
I wouldn’t say “usually”, I haven’t changed my own oil in years and have only had an issue with over inflation once, but it did happen. I actually had to fight with the service tech to lower the pressure (he’d inflated the tire to the maximum PSI rating for the tire) back down to something closer to what the vehicle was rated for. He refused to do it until I called his boss out and his boss told him where to look for the correct pressure setting. I only found out because I read his service report, if I hadn’t done that I wouldn’t have known until I checked the tires myself in a month or so.
@@drive-2786 I didn't say that was the only time to check them, did I now.
As a 12 year tire tech veteran I can confirm every word of this video is correct and accurate.
Now please good sir master tech, teach them to adjust their side view mirrors. I'd guess more than 90% of the vehicles I pull in have less than half the view they should have for safe driving.
Actually the lever on the center rear view for night time driving was on my list. Im sure you deal with that too!
How do you know a persons view! Everybody is built different and sits different in a vehicle! 😆
I remember when my son went to a driving school session provided by a major tire manufacturer. The instructor stated that everyone knows what the side if their vehicles look like, you don’t need to see it in your mirrors. You mirrors should be adjusted so that you just see a tiny bit of your door panel. What works for me is using the rear handles as a reference.This provides a wider range of vision off the side of your vehicle. 😊
Growing up i was always told to make sure that you have the right type of air in the tires. It was one or the other summer / winter. That only lasted till I started driving and in auto shop. Man was I gullible. Good on you for informing others👍.
We always told people they needed Japanese air for their Japanese tires😁
After years of driving different vehicles with different tires I judge by the sticker in the door jam first, then observing the wear. If wear is heavy in the center of the tire it's overinflated. Rule #1.
Great advice
You're exactly correct in doing this.
I've heard, but not confirmed, that over-inflating greatly shortens the life of the tire, but inflating to the door sticker cuts gas mileage. Of course if it's so over-inflated that it wears in the center then that would definitely shorten the longevity of the tire.
Not to beat a horse dead but, have a senior citizen neighbor I help out with vehicles from time to time. Her son firmly believes max tire pressure is the correct psi, and there's no changing his mind. I've been helping out with tire psi (placard) for her. Son came by yesterday and broke out the compressor. So, checked out tires on Civic today, placard 30psi. Cold morning psi, 44, 45, 48, and 49psi respectively. I was SMDH. I reduced all them to 32psi, mom owner wanted and knows what I did. At least taking air out easier than inflating. She has a Ranger truck, I didn't check yet, but can't wait to see tire pressure on those. /s
I check my tires in the morning before the sun shines on them. The sunlight can affect the pressure reading by 1-2 PSI.
Correct, the side were the sun hit will be higher .
It’s doesn’t matter when you inflate them because the pressure fluctuates throughout the day based on air temperature and heat from usage.
Every change of 10 degrees in air temperature causes your tire pressure to fluctuate 1-2 psi. So if you inflate them before sunrise, then they’re over-inflated at noon.
You want to inflate the tires during the time of day that you mostly drive, which likely isn’t before sunrise. And rather than the coolest part of the day, or the hottest part of the day, it’s best to inflate them at the average temperature of the day/week. So if the temperature is between 60-80F that day/week, then inflate them at 70F, which might be 10AM or 6PM, that way you have the least variance.
Of course you can still inflate them at whatever time of day is convenient for you, just be sure the tires are cold, and adjust the air pressure based on the temperature you’re inflating them at. So if you inflate them at 60F, but the average temperature for the day/week is 70F, then under inflate them by 1-2 psi.
If you’re driving through Death Valley at high noon in the middle of summer, adjust the air pressure for that temperature.
Give it a try. Since you already inflate your tires before sunrise, check the air pressure at the hottest time of the day. It may not be much on a day that only fluctuates 10-20F, but on a day that fluctuates 20-40F it could make a big difference.
@@LuckyCharms777 i believe matt means is not Ambient temp,is the tires that get hit by direct sunlight, on my trailer i see as much as 3 psi difference from the tire on the shade side vs the sun side. But when checked during the night they are even. this is without using the trailer for weeks
@@mandytuning
Oh, okay, thanks for letting me know, that’s not something that I’ve even considered before. It’s interesting that sunlight caused such a difference in air pressure, but it only makes sense especially considering how hot it can make a vehicle interior. I guess I need to start checking air pressure at night too, and adjust according to expected daytime temperatures. Thanks a lot for sharing!
thanks Im 62 yrold widow i needed this info. thank you!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Nice video. I always follow the sticker in the driver door jam. I used to go by the tire’s max pressure then realized the auto manufacturers put those stickers on the car for good reason and probably should follow their instructions on how to properly maintain my tires.
Thanks for the nice comments, the sticker is the guideline and what the manual and manufacturers recommended. Sure theres cases youll need more pressure but there is no magic answer. I was tryin to raise awareness of the sticker. Thanks for watching!
Dude. You follow the tire’s specifications as a rule. Don’t try to use logic for a non-sensical basis of operating
I always set it at 32 cold pressure. During my driving, i can see the pressure increase to 36. If you dont want your tire to blow up, dont over inflate it. When it was new, the tire pressure was at 50 psi. The dealer did not deflate it to the correct pressure.
As part of 'PDI'(pre-delivery inspection), the dealer is supposed to lower the tire pressures from their shipping value to what is on the vehicle door frame placard, or as I would - one PSI over, to protect the customer, who may never check the pressures until their first oil change, from themselves.
The tire pressure written on the vehicle is for the stock tires with the stock rims. If you have chosen to alter your vehicle, the air pressure may change, example there is often a difference between snow tires verus stock street tires versus low profile wide tires on taller rims.
yup, you go by the tire and what that manufacturer recommends not the door.. This doesn't mean go max psi the tire indicates.. If you go by the door sticker and the tires or rims are different could cause wear problems etc..
@@IbanezGuitarz87 Check with your tire dealer or tech! Many high performance tire manufacturers have recommendations for various upgrades.
Back in my day B.F.Goodrich, for the T/A performance line, had a whole book on tire size and pressures and how to calculate the proper pressure for the application.
caveat: "back in my day" I probably had to explain a couple of times a week the difference between a radial and a bias ply tire.
@@johnelectric933 good point!
Right. So the contention point of the video, like the door placard tire info, is useless.
@@uview1
Nope.
Nuance. No one said it was trash or wrong, just that there may be an alternative. The difference is seldom more than a couple of psi.
The sticker is always safe for any of the tire sizes listed.
Generally, the car manufacturers want a nice ride. Tire manufacturers want better wear and performance. Neither want to compromise safety.
We were all talking about putting on a different size tire and wheel which changes the volume and therefore the load/pressure figure for that tire.
Since you usually go up in size not down, for that case the sticker may be a little high. Worst that will do is wear out the center of the tread faster. It is not a safety problem.
I had a flat repaired not long ago and the shop put 42psi in (I run 35) which I knew right away because my KIA has a tpws that shows actual air pressure in each tire pretty much in real time. And these are guys who are supposed to know what they’re doing.
They don't care about psi
Also, keep in mind that if you have a donut spare it will run at a much higher pressure--often around 50-60 psi.
and that typically there will be a sticker on the wheel itself that will specify the correct pressure for the donut tire
@@JeeperZJ Yes, thank you. Now THAT psi rating that’s marked on the tire should definitely be followed! As well as the speed limit of the tire.
I can't tell you how many doughnuts roll into the shop with
Thanks for pointing this out. I check my tire pressure every other week and my doughnut spare every month, and it’s always a few pounds low.
@@jeanenviedapprendre
Recently had to use my donut spare, which was never used or checked in 18 years, lol. I was surprised that it appeared inflated when I took it out, but the reality upon installing it and checking the air pressure after it looked low with weight on it, is that it had about 10psi compared to the 80psi it was supposed to have. Still, it was enough to get me to the gas station 1.5 miles away to fill it compared to the completely flat regular tire.
This is great video
My local Costco puts nitrogen in tires when you buy from them.
Last year they installed brand new two filling stations and guess what it’s nitrogen.
If you have local Costco check you can get free nitrogen.
THANK YOU. Been arguing with a couple of the men in my life about this for YEARS. They won't listen to a "girl," but now I can point them to a video by a car dude and maybe I'll get through to them.
Good info. I would add one thing: it is best to use your own gauge, and the same gauge every time. It may not be perfectly accurate, but it will tell you how much air your tires are losing over a period of weeks. The gauge at a service station air pump may be even less accurate, and the accuracy of one gauge to another is likely to vary, so if you don't use the same pump with the same gauge at the same service station, every time you put air in your tires, the difference in accuracy between any 2 of gauges may fool you as to how fast your tires are losing air. Just use the same gauge. And don't drop it! A good bang may either change its accuracy or damage it so that it doesn't work at all. A cheap stick gauge is usually accurate enough. But use a gauge that shows your tires' pressure roughly in the middle of the gauge's range. That is where it is the most accurate. So for example if your tire is supposed to have 30 psi, use a gauge that goes from 10 psi to 50 or 60, and not a gauge that goes from 20 to 100.
You are absolutely correct. In the comments I’ve stated that I look for consistency over accuracy. Thanks!
Can I use Tire Pressure Gauge for Air And Tire Tread gauge for wear so it won’t get blow out
@@tyrellhawkins9230 I'm not quite sure what ou are asking. By "so it won't get blow out" to you mean so that the tire won't get a blow-out? If that is what you mean then the answer is by using a tire pressure gauge to keep the tire at a correct pressure, and by using a tread gauge to make sure the tire has adequate tread you will minimize the chances that the tire will get a blow out but you can still get a blow out if, for example you strike a road hazard, say a "pot-hole" (a hole in the road) or a sharp object that cuts into the tread or the sidewall. If the tire has the correct pressure a pot hole is less likely to cause a blowout, or a flat. If there is plenty of tread left, road hazards are less likely to cause a flat or a blowout.
@@soilmanted thanks for information and I just saying that because I went to discount tire a few days ago and they told me that my REAR Back tire got 4 cracks in it and my Front passenger tire needs a whole another wheel and they said they can’t replace it. Then I went to Belle Tire for tires inspection and they were using a Tire Tread gauge and they told me that my rear back tire is number 4 and the other three were 6,6, and 8 and so I wanna know is having a good tire tread for safety when the tread is messed up… because I ordered one 2days ago
@@soilmanted thanks for information and I just saying that because I went to discount tire a few days ago and they told me that my REAR Back tire got 4 cracks in it and my Front passenger tire needs a whole another wheel and they said they can’t replace it. Then I went to Belle Tire for tires inspection and they were using a Tire Tread gauge and they told me that my rear back tire is number 4 and the other three were 6,6, and 8 and so I wanna know is having a good tire tread for safety when the tread is messed up… because I ordered one 2days ago
I remember a good few years ago, my brother got his tyres changed and came to see me after. He said the ride was a bit rubbish since, I asked him whether he'd checked the tyre pressures and he said the fitter had inflated then to 45 or 47psi and stated that was the correct tyre pressure.
He had 15in wheels with 185/55 on his Vauxhall Corsa and they're supposed to be around 30...
I then explained that his tyre fitter was wrong (always fun explaining to people how 'professionals' are wrong) and that his overly inflated tyre would've had poor contact patch with the ground and been pretty dangerous in the rain.
I also explained the door sticker at that point.
So bad the misinformation out there, it's a good thing that at least the correct information provided by people like yourself can end up offering people some insight as it's clearly done here. 😊
Thank you I appreciate you and the nice comments!
This video could not have come at a better time. I’ve been driving around with flat tires for years. Now after this video, I can fill my tires air. Thank you!!!
hey im sure you either learned something or agreed with something, either way, its a win. thanks
Driving with flat tires for years? Post a you tube video, love to see it. Comments would be fun to read too.
@@faxmen09 this is the risk a RUclipsr takes when I try to post informal videos.
@@MasterTechLou Indeed! You've gotten some doozy replies/comments on this one. Guessing having a thick skin helps.
@@faxmen09 Broken home plus southside of Chicago. Let the haters hate
My dad taught me about the importance of tyre pressures over 60 years ago. My driving instructor taught me about the importance of correct tyre pressures. I always thought every driving instructor did the same. Obviously, they don't. And I always check my tyres every 2 weeks and use a foot pump to top up if necessary. Maybe some people think I'm sad, but hey, I don't care.
Not sad at all, my neighbors probably think I have holes in my tires or something, I check them every two weeks or so as well. It's a good idea to know all about your car, I mean we depend on it with our lives.
Almost every one has become reliant on warning lights. I recommend everyone check at every fuel fill but always as you walk to your car doesnt hurt to take a glance at your tires.
You give clear and sound advice. Good job!
Thank you I appreciate that!
I worked in a service station for a decade and I never learned this. Thank you for the education.
I didn't know to go by the door sticker until I heard rainman ray say it. He also explained that the number on the tire is different because it can fit different vehicles that may require different pressures, therefore as you stated, it is only the max pressure that the tire is rated for.
Do you feel the difference? I recently had high rear pressures (after towing+ a big load in the back) with no load -- lots of oversteer if I came into corners quick! Wet braking would be better too with correct pressures:)
Why the hell would be it there ? Engineers don’t give a fuck. And most cars do not have tire specs in gas caps
@@nomercyinc6783 its there because vehicle chassis' have rated loads, and have certain weights. I can put the same tyres on a 1 tonne camry as a 2.5T hilux, provided they are rated to support the PSI both vehicles need, but if I put the hilux PSI rating on the camry, they will bulge in the middle and wear rapidly in the middle, while having reduced traction, and the other way around they will bulge on the edge, and the edges will wear rapidly and the tyre could even come off while cornering.
Rainman is awesome
Unfortunately there are many service people out there that don't know that the pressure on the tire is max pressure. Good work.
Agree, that is unfortunate. What's also unfortunate, when those same "service people" and even average joe shown the correct psi, i.e., placard psi as Lou states, they still want to believe it's max pressure on tire sidewall. Just read some comments here.
@@faxmen09 There are some things even duct tape can't fix.
@@aerofd True that!
I go by the sticker on the door for the correct psi. For my Challenger is 32 psi on all four tires. I have a longacre analog tire pressure gauge that's extremely accurate and a portable hand held air inflator that works great.
I carry my trusty digital air pump with me at all times. I have it set to the correct pressure, so that if ever ,I need to put air in my tires, the air pump will automatically shut off when reaching the desired pressure. Saves having to get to an air pump.
Thank you for this advice about inflating your tyres with Nitrogen, I wasn't aware of that benefit! A lot of commercial companies and including the military paint the tyre pressure on the top of the wheel arch. On your civvie car you can paint the 'official instruction manual' tyre pressure on the tyre valve stem.
Or you can just memorize it, but lacking that, just check the door each time. It’s not like that’s difficult.
@@LuckyCharms777 True althiugh I am not thinking of me.
Nitrogen isnt a must have, but its a cant hurt and does help with certain scenarios.
@@billmmckelvie5188
Sorry, I was imagining a scenario where only you inflated your tires.
By the way, after watching this video, I came across a few articles concluding nitrogen in passenger vehicle tires is overrated. Apparently the NHTSA did a study, and so did Consumer Reports, that it doesn’t make a great difference in fuel consumption or tire life compared to just regularly checking air pressure. The greatest benefit for consumers is not needing to check tire air pressure regularly, although I recall hearing that blowouts can be less severe as well, but with proper tire pressure there are surely less blowouts. Between the cost to fill with nitrogen and the inconvenience of filling stations, there just wasn’t much of a benefit to make it worthwhile.
@@LuckyCharms777 I agree entirely with regular checking. In the UK we used to use a code word as an aide memoir for checking you car. P.O.W.E.R. Petrol, Oil, Water, Electrics, Rubber. I am old school were we used to have to check points, distributor cap and spark plugs, a slightly sandy residue on the plugs indicated a healthy engine Depending on your mileage your frequency of checking all your levels should be at least fortnightly (8,000 to 10,000 annual mileage) or weekly if you prefer. Fleet use has to be at the start of your shift due to our law. Thanks to integral tyre compressors everything is far more convenient than previously!
When the engineers at Ford found that the explorers we're prone to rolling over their "fix" was to lower the tire pressure. So looking at the recommended inflation's for that Mercedes has 28 psi in the front. At that pressure the tires will be trashed in no time. So I'll stick to running mine at 40 psi in town and 50 psi for highway use on a 51 psi max tire .
Always go by the sticker. The same tire can fit may different cars. Some heavier than others...
Yes sir, it's what I've always done. 👍 No issues. And another wise and common sense comment.
Think I realized why my, new to me 20 year old car with 260 k miles, tires keep needing air in the tires…corroded rims. Makes sense now. Thanks!
You are welcome 🙏 if you want to verify spray soapy water around the tire/rim area and the valve stem. Youll see bubbles 😊
I always got a 12V air pump and gauge in my cars. Vacuum-cleaner/air-pump combo works quite nicely and has a built-in gauge that's remarkably accurate (within 1psi). Still, that small gauge is hard to read accurately, so I always also carry a nice big GH Meisner gauge to verify pressures all-around.
I have a 12v inflator but decided to get a battery operated one as well. One month after buying and the cost is long forgotten. The battery unit is perfect for topping off, and ther 12v is always in reserve if the battery runs low.
I 've ran the max tire pressure stated on any of my vehicle tires for over 20 years. There is no question that improves the MPG, but it's a bit rougher ride.
I have found that slightly overinflating my tires delivers an extra 1-2 MPG. I originally had Michelin Primacy tires that said max pressure was 45 psi so I filled them to 38 psi. I have switched to Cross Climate with a max pressure of 50 psi so I am experimenting with 40 psi. I think that as long as you don't mind a slightly harsher ride and stay well under the max pressure rating that keeping tires a bit overinflated (using an accurate gauge to monitor it) can save you a buck or two each tank of gas.
Another tip is when you take your vehicle in for an oil change have them check the air pressure in the tires and especially the spare.
The sticker on the inside of the door is a good recommendation if you keep the stock tire size. However, if you change wheels/tires and they are a different size from the factory size, that sticker isn’t the most accurate recommendation.
Yes but a sticker is better than no sticker.
Most folks stick with the OE placard size tires and OE wheels so placard is the correct guide.
@@faxmen09 Cool. I already addressed that in my post.
I learned a few things from this video ! After all these years. KUDOS !!
I find that you need to inquire of the tire manufacturer of the correct pressure when not replacing with OEM, they do differ. A harder or softer compound requires different pressure, especially if you swap Summer and Winter tires. You also need to monitor your pressures seasonally. There is a big difference in pressure with 90 degree ambient and 30 degree even if you do not switch compounds.
A harder or softer compound requires different pressure? Really? What tire manual are you reading?
As a 20 year professional if someone asked me this question I would tell them USE THE PRESSURE PROVIDED ON THE DOOR LABEL. You are 100% incorrect, if the tire size is the same as the OEM, the pressure needs to be the same, regardless of tire compound.
@@robertkorn In a static world I would not be interested in arguing. However, the 'cold' PSI driving in Houston in the summer or Duluth in the winter has an operating PSI that would differ greatly, maybe 10 PSI. I know driving my sports car aggressively can alter the 'hot' PSI 4+ pounds. Maybe the recommended pressure is an average, but almost never optimal for longevity, MPG or performance.
@Dave blockhead read his comment next time before trying to answer. His response HAD NOTHING to do with your weather. He is strictly responding to the previous post regarding tire materials. Again learn to read. Its fundamental.
@@zlonewolf Its more of a comprehension thing 😅
Using smaller compressors take more time. Usually the pancake and small cylinder types are about 3 seconds for 1 psi on a car tire. My pickup (275/7017) seems to be closer to 4 seconds. I’ve even had one max out putting in 70 psi with a load on the truck. Wish I had a compressor with more volume and pressure. Oh 1/4” fittings with 3/8” hose.
Trying to inflate 33in tyres with a cordless compressor takes like...60s per psi ;) The ARB twin air is good apparently. I love the Sherpa Big Air, but you pay for it, in weight too :)
I got tired of trying to find a gas station air fill that wasn't spitting water out so I bought one of those portable tire fill air compressors and do it at home myself. Takes a little longer, but at least I get dry air. I don't rely on it's analog gauge, I simply slightly overfill, and then back off a little using a high end digital air gauge.
Why is the air your compressing drier at your home than at the station? Did you add a drier to the compressor inlet?
@@GrampalettasCamp Because there's no water condensation in the small unit, at least none that can be seen or felt. At the gas station you can literally see water spraying out by pressing the valve.
@@Joseph1NJ When you compress air into a tank, the water condenses out in that tank. It can be drained off or filtered out (or both). When you use a compressor with no tank and fill the tire directly, the water condenses out in the tire. The amount will depend on the humidity when you fill the tire.
You aren’t getting drier air. The condensation is simply happening in your tire rather than in the air hose. If you feel how hot your little compressor gets you will see why. It is hard to condense water out of hot air, but once the air cools in your tire, the water will condense inside your tire.
thx man i will admit i have been maxing out my tires for 40 yrs
I had a flat and had the tire repaired by a shop that I was not familiar with. Later I noticed an odd shaking when I got on the interstate. I took it to my regular mechanic and he found that the tire had about a QUART of water in it.
Never heard of that. I think he conned you.
❓
@@jimmcdiarmid7308 He is a terrible con man he charged me $20.00. His family has had a shop at the same location for 68 Years.
I had a similar experience where I started to get odd shaking in the front end. Went to a great shop where they told me the tire patch that was done elsewhere had finally begun to bulge, giving me an actual bump on the tire itself.
"Master Tech Lou" is in CYA mode due to liability exposure. I have been a Hypermiler for over 40 years, I used to compete in fuel economy events nationwide. If one drives relatively slow, does not corner like a race car driver, and prioritzes MILES PER GALLON, there is nothing wrong with inflating tires up to sidewall max......which is 44 PSI in most tires. I ALWAYS overinflate, and currently am driving 2,100 miles per week on the highway. My tires ALWAYS end up with perfectly even wear across the tread, as modern steel belted radials are very stiff and strong. Currently I drive a 2020 Toyota Prius L ECO, which I purchased new. I already have 280,00 miles on the odometer. Have averaged 81.55 MPG during this time. For sure, the stock Bridgestone Ecopia 422+ rubber does a good job, they are LRR tires, with a hard rubber compound and computer optimized tread pattern. The size is 195/65/15. So remember, for maximum fuel economy, you want tall, skinny tires, NOT low profile aftermarket ones. Drive a little slower than normal and put air in tires up to sidewall max. Use MOMENTUM techniques such as looking WAY ahead to the next stoplight and try to seldom use the brakes.....
hey glad to hear! again as I have stated numerous times the only goal of this video was to show of the sticker spec. from there, you can over or under inflate as needed for each individual case. thanks for watching and reaching out!
No, water does not damage the inside of your tyre. The most obvious way to know that is because you have never seen an old tyre damaged from the inside by water, but they all have water in there throughout their lifetime, as it is not avoidable when putting air in there in the usual fashion, e.g. at home / at the gas station. The inside and the outside of the tyre are made of the same rubber, and the outside is exposed to water all the time and does not get damaged, or else we would not make tyres of rubber. The seals in your water pipes are made of rubber, the seal in your tyre valve is made of rubber, most water tightening seals are made of rubber, it is not reactive to water. The reason you do not want water in your tyre is pressure control. If a litre of water changes in to the gaseous phase, it expands to ca 1 cubic metre, i.e. a factor of 1,000. So having even a little bit of water can have a substantial effect on tyre pressure as the tyre gets warm or even hot due to outside air temperature and/or driving style - but we want to keep our pressure in a controlled range for reliable performance. That is because while water fully changes to the gaseous phase at boiling point / 100 C, some of it always changes to a certain degree as a chemical property of water, even below 100 C, so if a tyre has 30-40-50 C, that already has an effect despite being nowhere near the boiling point. If all you ever do is local trips to the Starbucks, the water in a tyre does not matter, as it never heats up in a substantial way, and if it did, the driving conditions would be well below the tyre's limit. But if you hit the Autobahn for 5 hours on a hot summer day, it matters. That is why some manufacturers will also tell you to measure the pressure at e.g. 20 C, and also specify speed limits for a given tyre pressure. "Cold" tyres means different things to different people, especially seeing how fucking dumb the average person is ;) But of course tyres also have a wide range of acceptable pressure, so it rarely matters whether you check pressure at 18 or 23 C... My tyres even have 2 pressures to choose from, so what is the correct pressure is on a spectrum - it has to be - tyres take a lot of abuse from ignorance and their use cases throughout their lifetime. Therefore pure nitrogen only makes sense on the racetrack, as tyres don't usually get tortured that much on public roads.
Great information, thank you so much for the lesson on counting the seconds. I always put too much air in my tire but now that I have this information it will help me do a better job.
Really good info Lou for those unfamiliar with vehicle care. I also keep a very basic pen type gauge in the car mainly for consistency. Back in the 70's I had a after school /Saturday job as a bowser boy, engine check boy, tyre repair boy, floor sweeping boy. I learnt a lot about tyres and tube. So here's what is important about tyre pressure. 1 or 2 psi is not going to make cause much of an issue but 5 psi or greater is. Especially if the pressure in all 4 tyre's is different (yes it happens), unequal tyre pressures is a bigger issue than slightly high or low. As it can greatly affect handling and braking.
Thanks for the nitrogen explanation. Up til now I thought it was some kind of lame scam but it does make sense. I think aircraft may have the same in their tires but of course it’s 50 below and with far less ambient air pressure at 35,000 ft.
All gases expand and contract with temperature. The only benefit I can think of for nitrogen is that it is DRY.
Very well explained,and your not ranting at all. Thank you for sharing your wisdom. Excelent video!
Great info! Especially at 5:34 regarding the second per pound info
Depends on compressor but at the end I show you why I said that 🤷🏼♂️
If you go 2-3 lbs lower than the tire states your good. Even wear.. Good ride.. Good gas milage.
Great video, 1 part not mentioned I think would be important to speak on..
Can't you exceed the door sticker recommendation as long as you stay a bit under the tire max?
For example, if the sticker recommendation is 35 PSI but your tire says Max 50 you could inflate to 40 without an issue to the tire. The ride may be slightly more stiff but rarely noticable and if your tires are wearing on both outer edges due to under inflation, this could also help it wear more evenly and lastly help with slightly better gas mileage although it's not very noticeable.
First off thanks for the nice comments. Secondly yes I can talk for hours on tires and pressure and all sorts of experiences, the goal was just to make aware of the sticker and an actual manufacturer recommendation. You are 100% correct on your statement.
@@MasterTechLou ok thanks for your reply and clarification. I know what you mean, I could talk for hours on stuff like this too lol.
Thanks and take care.
You could do that, but your tyres won't last as long because they'll wear out down the centre of the tread, from being too rounded out, due to the excessive air pressure. There's usually a diagram of that in the vehicle's owner's manual.
Centre tread wear due to overinflation is not an issue with the radial tyres we've been using for the last 50 years. Not unless the tyres are very badly made, or the inflation pressure is dangerously high.
@@jublywubly please refer to what Mark said in the previous comment. It's almost exactly what I was going to reply to you about. I was not saying to overinflate by high levels, but 3-5 psi makes a difference when done properly. Also, some car manufacturers recommend a lower psi for comfort but that reduces the life of the tire as they will wear unevenly. Multiple mechanics have explained it the same to me which is why I mentioned it here to clarify options. After years of having inner edges worn prematurely I learned why it's not only an alignment that can cause this issue. It's your preference really but I hope this may help.
My next door neighbor bought new tires on sale for his truck early last spring and had the tire shop mount & balance them for him. He bought E rated 10ply tires. (nice tires) The tire shop employees told him they don't look at the tire pressure rating on the tire they look at the sticker on the door. They had inflated his new tires to 40 psi. The tires are rated for 80 psi max. 60 psi being the minimum. I pointed it out to him because the tires looked under inflated and if he expected to get decent life out of them, he had better read the tires inflation recommendation on the tires themselves. 50 year mech/tec.
Good video! Everyone needs to know this.
I only run Max side wall PSI. Tires last longer, MPG is better, Handling is better due to stiffer sidewalls.
Bumps are a little rougher, but the 3 other factors more than make up for that slight downside.
Whoa! I had never heard the counting trick. Good stuff.
It doesnt replace a gauge, its merely something ive learned myself to save time running back and forth to the dash to make sure tpms is happy. Thanks!
This is absolutely brilliant...love how much depth uve gone in to. Thanku so much ... blessings to u x
Thanks! Great video with great info!!!!!! One of the best car care channels I've seen. Count me a new sub!!
Awesome, thank you!
I decided to make this video when a 60 year old told me he never knew about the sticker and when a teenager filled his moms tires till "they looked full" .
The only goal of this video is to show that there is a specification . If you start with the specification you can adjust from there based on your needs and circumstances. Some would think this was common knowledge, but its not. Hence the video. I appreciate those that watch and hope you find my videos helpful. If you do not, well then that is ok too.
I recently had a chat with a Julian from Tire Rack regarding tires and the manufacturers pressure specification, there is none, you are to go by the placard on the car.
tiresvote.com/articles/everything-you-need-know-about-contact-patch/
Lou
One point that may be of interest is that higher tire pressures can reduce fuel consumption, sometimes significantly. The recommended tire pressure table often shows a higher pressure for freeway driving. I think it doesn't hurt to use this higher pressure all the time.
@@ib9rt running max psi is not beneficial
@@nomercyinc6783 What do you mean by "max psi" and what do you mean by "not beneficial"?
Also, most tire manufacturers also have a book of suggested pressures for your car with their tire. You can't go wrong with either.
But what if your using a different brand of tire than the car came with? Does the recommended psi still apply?
very informative video. I never knew this.
Spot on. This should be taught in drivers Ed.
@@willem2544 rims aren’t. Atleast the last time I checked. I could be wrong. It’s happened before. Just ask my wife.
This what makes RUclips great.
*About that Mercedes fuel door label at **01:17**:* In 1966 I was hitch hiking in Germany and a Mercedes picked me up. On the autobahn he hit about 175 Km/hr (about 110 mph). Slower cars in the passing lane would notice him approaching and turn on their right turn signal and shift to right lane. *That's why the tire pressure label tells you how much to add if you are going to "autobahn" it.* BTW Wikipedia says there are still stretches with no enforced speed limit. One guy back then told me: "We are warriors at heart."
Haha, that's awesome. Wish we had an autobahn type freeway here in the US. I think Texas has about as close as it comes with 85 mph speed limits.
@@ironpanther2420 IIRC, before the oil crisis of the 1980s, Nevada had no speed limit on most of their highways.
Dang, now I feel like I’ve gotta watch a video on how to correctly brush my teeth. 🤷♂️
I had a GMC truck and would always go higher than what it said in the door frame because the recommended pressure always left my tires looking oddly low.
Same on my F350
I just came in from my garage to put 3 pounds of air in each of my truck tires (it got cold). I come back to the computer and I see this video waiting on me. Weird! For reference, I use a little 2 gallon air compressor with a moisture drain at the bottom that cost me $100 and a hand held digital gauge that cost me about $10. My Ford app tells me the current tire pressure so that helps but I always use the gauge. Correct PSI is very important for several reasons and over the years I've become a bit of a "PSI nut".
I always look at the tire's maximum cold PSI rating and set it at that. air stabilizes the tire and the lower you go the more slop you get. I set my tires at 50 psi and it definitely has more grip at that pressure. anything less than 40 PSI and my tires will spin through first gear. I've been doing it for decades with no problems..
What do you call INTELLECTUAL AND PRODIGY AND ACCOMPLISHED ADD two more SUBSTANTIAL AND KNOWLEDGEABLE The answer is Master Tech lou
My teacher
God bless you for sharing it Take care and have a great Evening with all your family around you 👍 PROFICIENT Master Tech lou
From Nick Ayivor from London England UK 🇬🇧
Thank you Nick I appreciate you always
I wear safety glasses when pumping up my tires. The air pressure can blow dirt around or the air hose could rupture. I got an eye injury when I was younger welding with a oxy acetylene setup. Now I am careful to protect my eyes.
Thank you so much. I take my small Navion motorcoach to a truck tire service center. They always want to do what he says trucker do...up the PSI from tire to max tire PSI. Example my sticker inside door way is 61 PSI dang he bumps up to 65 or 67. I so confused but I sure trust you. Thanks.
I'm still trying to get my neighbor to do a seasonal charge of the battery, when you test it it says good but recharge.12.23. The air is a future project. 😄 Good video lou.👍🇨🇦
When they pay almost 300$ for a new battery they may finally listen 👂🏻
What is a seasonal charge?
@@calitri76 in spring @ just before winter.
@@404notfound..... Why not just drive it on the highway for 30 minutes??
I’ve had lead acid batteries last over 6 years doing this
@@christophervanzetta I used to do just that but after working 11 1/2 hours every day it's the last thing I wanna do lol
I got so tired of going to gas station and service station for air. Years ago I went and bought my own air pump to plug in at home. Kinda simple and silly how long it took to do that. Go buy your own pump folks lol. You can get decent priced ones out there. Save you time and do it right👍. Check em once a month or so. Maybe more in the cold months if it applies.
Best explanation of, and case for, nitrogen fill that I've heard. There's a rampant false-dichotomy argument about whether nitrogen fill improves fuel economy due to lighter weight, but this argument detracts from the actual benefits. Thank you!
I just discovered I had never taught my 20 year old son where to look for proper inflation pressures. He looked at the sidewall like you said.
Now if you were the ONLY person to ever watch this video , that would have been a win for me, I simply want to educate. Your comment alone, made my day. Thank you.,
Number 1 cause of tire failure is under inflation( we all fail under inflation) ! 2000+ - F250, specks from Ford recommend 32psi, tires put on truck for use in construction recommends Max load 80 psi, we haul bobcats, dumping trailers w/ bobcats in them !
i always fill to 38 psi I have pretty low profile tires ... Last night they were all down to the same exact pressure 31.5 psi all 4 tires I haven't checked them in over 2 month or so.. Plus, it was cold out down to 50° normally, it's pretty hot in Arizona.. But yeah, my lights didn't go on ,, I felt like the ride was a little mushy .. i was right.. My rims are all aftermarket, so I can't really go by what it says on the cars label.. When I got the rims at the pro tire rim shop, they Filled to 38 and they recommended around there.. Also, don't forget to check your spare... I have a mini donut tire it's 75 psi Always check it around the same time.. The psi in the spare tire was fine last night
I'm surprised at how many people don't know that the proper air pressure for your tires is written on the driver's door, and not the tire sidewall.
I feel like I just got a software upgrade… mind blown. I’ve been overfilling my tires by 7PSI, consistently, for years, having never even noticed that sticker.
Thanks for the humbling but enlightening info!
That was the main purpose of my video, I wonder how many walked out to the car to see the sticker and then check their tires to find they had a leak, or low tire. I am to help. that is it. thank you.
Lou
And yet, nothing has ever gone wrong...
@@madatown I’m not sure that’s true. My wife’s car is an AWD Rogue, and we recently replaced 1 of the 4 tires, which makes the computer go nutty and it’s loud at certain speeds because the height of that 1 tire is different from all of the others. Being off on pressure all these years may well have cost in terms of gas mileage, wear and tear etc. If there’s a right way to do something, I’d prefer to know about it and at least attempt to do it that way.
@@michaelkeymont501 There is some wiggle room in inflation specs. About the only thing 7 psi over the door jamb sticker value will get you is a slightly rougher ride and theoretically better fuel economy. With regard to your tire replacement issues, if the older tires were worn that much, it might have been a good idea to replace the one on the opposite end of that axle at the same time.
@@billyjack3580 they actually weren’t that bad, but since this is AWD, from what I’ve read and been told, the computer tries to compensate for the mismatch and it causes excessive wear on the transmission. All I know is that it’s gotten LOUD and all of the tires are in decent shape. We’re probably going to replace them this one time and get rid of the car. It’s not worth the trouble if you have to spend a grand every time you get a flat tire.
Yeah, I’ve never had any trouble with my slightly over-inflated tires, but it’s nice to know what they’re actually supposed to be inflated to instead of just guessing.
Lou, , thanksyou did good I understand everything that you said
Great advice thank you.
My advice to the shop owner is to get an air dryer for your air compressor .
Thanks! That is an air dryer just not located properly. I drain it daily as its also inside a detail shop. Talk about moisture!
Subaru Outback states 32 front, because of rolling circumference, with engine weight. 30psi back, because of low weight.
I split my higher pressures. 40psi front, and 38.5psi rear. Gas mileage, while traveling, goes up almost 4mpg.
Was helping my buddy yesterday get a trailer ready and noticed a low tire. He was having trouble reading the info on the tire so I did and said it says 85psi max at max load so do 55 and he got all upset because it also says on the tire not to exceed 30psi for seating the tire. He couldn't read the tire seating part and just assumed that was the correct pressure. I had my Harley on that trailer for 1500 miles and also a quad for another 1000.....now I'm realizing why we had that flat on that trailer when it was loaded with atvs. Guy never had it properly inflated
The higher the pressure in the compressor's storage tank, the drier the air. Compressing air reduces it's ability to hold water. The extra water falls to the bottom of the tank or any low points in the compressor system. It needs to be drained out periodically. Improperly maintained compressors can pump this collected water out and into a tire with the air. The more a compressor runs the more water will be collected and the more often it needs to be drained. Small compressors that just compress air to the tire pressure will deliver air with the most moisture in it to your tire. These are the coin operated compressors, and the small 12V or battery compressors. A little moisture is not likely to cause a problem, but a lot of moisture in the tire can affect tire / wheel balance.
30 years later of me doing all! Wrong.
SMH.
Thank you 🙏🏽
For your honesty and knowledge.
You are so welcome and thank you!
Hmm thanks - I learned a few things. Very informative for every car owner, great video
Great advice, thanks! I’m especially pleased that you backed up your statements with the reasons/facts behind them. NICE JOB!
simp
I've seen tire shops and mechanics alike put too much air in tires. I always check after getting balanced or new tires installed and have to lower the pressure to a comfortable and safe ride.
Great advice. Thank you.
Apprecieate the videos, Joe. This one could've been done in half the time or less, though, minus all the repetition.
In short, add air to cold tires (not run) only unless you have emergency, and follow manufacturer recommendations (WHO consults owner's manuals?).
I fill my tires at home (barring a puncture on the road) at home with my bicycle pump.
BTW, ALL tires lose air over time. My winter tires typically need 5-7 lbs after sitting all warm season.
I think my door thing says 35psi. If I run my tires at 35psi, I get tire wear and it's obvious. I run my tires at 50psi and that seems to be the sweet spot. It seems like when I looked that the tire itself recommends 40-60psi.
yeah it all depends on case by case scenarios but at least you are aware of the sticker, thats the purpose of this video. thanks for reaching out.
Lou
Gas station air fillers always have too much water to it. I bought the Dewalt air compressor. It has a digital gauge as well as a number cutoff. If I set it to 35 psi, when it reaches approx 35.0 +/- .1 it automatically shuts off.
I like that
Anyone else hate using tire gauges? Sometimes the reading stick springs out with momentum giving you a crazy reading.
I use mine 3-4 times on the same tire to make sure its at least consistent. Accuracy is another thing but I look more for consistency.
This explains why my son has to put air in his one tire every few days.
Fwiw, agree with you on tire pressure, vehicle placard psi it is. I might add ~2psi over. "Max" psi on tire side, a common misconception/mistake it seems. I always check and fill my tires when cold, that generally means early morning and before driving. Otoh, disagree about N2 fill. Combined with regular pressure checks, been using the 'free' 78%N2 for decades. EZ peazy. Never a problem with premature tire wear or rim corrosion. Where I purchase tires (major US tire chain), free rotations and balance to maintain tire warranty, and they use the free 78%N2 fill. They also offer free drive up air pressure check/fill for anyone. A good tire gauge a must to maintain tires/psi. If someone wants to give free N2 fill (not likely), I'd consider it. Otherwise, I'll stick with free 78% N2 type. Thanks for video.
My MB dealer does that whenever I take the car in for seasonal tire/rim swap in addition necessary maintenance. N2 pressure is stable not affected by temperature change greatly.
@@tonyhwang3888 No need for me to rehash my initial thought here. If you like N2, pay for it and use it. I won't. Only place I believe N2 needed, airplane tires. But that is quite different than passenger car use. As noted, I'll stick to the free 78% N2 and check pressure regularly. It's worked for me.
My car tires always has N2 in it. Dealer does not charge for N2. Green cap valves. PSI is set and monitored by ECU. MB does not use
TPMS, BMW uses TPMS. Only cars we have in the garage.
We have not had tire/rim problems very long time. Always two sets of tires/rims for summer and winter.
@@tonyhwang3888 Green caps meaningless to me. Bet there's lots of cars with green caps that are not 100% N2 or close. If it's 'truly' free and N2 gives you the warm fuzzies, fine. Extremely rare, truly free N2 fill. I agree with guy in vid, and there's many other similar vids. Science. ruclips.net/video/bCnWvMleVD0/видео.html
How do you know there putting in n2.
I go with the tire pressure on the tire. Tire company is the one that speed rates that tire.
At max pressure? Theres only 1 print on the tire and its max pressure. The tire doesnt know what car its on or how its loaded.
@@MasterTechLou if max pressure is 50 I will be between 45-50. Even if the car sticker says 32. I was told that helped with fuel economy also. Low rolling resistance.
@@largecarken8504 it does.