This ATX PSU Tester Analyser is USELESS!! Let's make it work properly! Power Supply Analyzer Mod
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- Опубликовано: 7 сен 2021
- I bought this ATX Analyser and it is hopeless for testing faulty Power Supplies! OK it works fine for testing power supplies that are already working anyway, but what is the point of that?
Here is what happened when I tried to use to analyse this faulty PSU
Part 1: • ATX PSU Mysterious Fau...
Part 2: • MYSTERY ATX PSU FAULT ...
So after spending well over two hours on this previous ATX repair because this stupid analyzer showed it was completely dead when in fact only the 12V supply was missing, I decided it was about time to fix this thing and actually make it fit for it's purpose - to test and diagnose faulty ATX Power supplies!
Can I get it to work properly, and how much would it cost to do that?
Wanna find out? You just gotta press PLAY!
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Thank you
Richard
I bought one of those testers from eBay and found that the 4-pin Molex test connector was wired to the 5v and 12V LEDs incorrectly (or if you prefer, the 5V and 12V LED labels were round the wrong way). If you rely on one of these testers to test 4-pin Molex cables, check that they have not also mislabelled those LEDs - I spent ages looking for a bad 5V molex pin or break in the wire (no 5V LED lit) and eventually realised the 5V Molex pin was fine, it was the 12V Molex pin that was open cct!
19:14 I think I found the answer why they've used 12V rail to power up that analyser, not from +5VSB (stb). You forgot about one thing. It is a universal analyser for ALL atx PSUs. So it has to work with all of them and it CANNOT kill any PSU by itself operation. You probably have in mind today's modern atx PSUs, which they can handle 2-3Amps on +5VSB, BUT there is a lot of old PSUs that can be killed because they can handle only from 0.1 to 0.7Amps max (depend of model) on that rail.
First example in the row: paste this to the Google graphics "Gateway 6500113 200 Watt label" and pick the picture with label and you will see that it can handle max 0.1Amps for +5Vsb. So your mod could be dangerous for that old atx PSUs.
So I think that they did the right thing. The ideal solution could be use your external power supply to supply this analyser.
Greetings from Poland.
So you are saying that the tester could take more than 100mA?
@@steve6375God only knows, what they - china people, have put inside there and how much current it can eat :-):-)
Ya - I don't think the Tester even draws 100 milli-Amps.
You may be correct ... But really, would you even WANT to repair such an old supply? Just replace it with a more modern one repaired from scrap. The number of ATX supplies that are inside scrapped PCs in recycling centres and they are probably working just fine is a bit scandalous in my view! 🤔😲👎👎
@boblewis5558 or the ones that get thrown away because of a noisy fan
Thanks for the video. I have successfully applied all your ideas for this mod to the slightly redesigned (without the electrolytic caps ) device I have. Works perfectly as far as I can see!
Excellent! Well done
Hi, can you explain how you did the mod? Because I order test analizaire but it's different inside, there's not a little capacitors. So how can I do it? Thank you
Cheers Richard. I will do this to mine over the next few weeks. I guess I'll need a new paperweight!!!
I used 4 off boost/buck converters to build a solar powered battery charger. One proprietry solar controller to charge a bulk (100AHr) battery during daylight hours and my charger to top-up 4 other batteries (7 - 9AHr Li/Fe and Pb/Acid mix) overnight. Works well.
Thank you very much for this, I will definitely perform this mod on mine.
Hi Adrian - let us know how you go on with the mod. Good luck.
@@LearnElectronicsRepair Definitely, ordered the bits up. Just a waiting game now, but now I know how to do it I know the perfectionist in me will do an half decent job of it...fingers crossed lol. Thanks again.
Thanks for this nice little hack 👍 also if you miss that 4 pin molex you could just solder wires on it and just have it coming out there 😏
great and funny video with the wire confusion 😂
That's awesome. Thanks.
Thanks!
Drink a vodka shot every time he says "yeah".
great fix also pretty cheap to do :)
Heya nice wen a plan works great job
My solution was to attach 2 small wires to the 1st capacitor and run them out of the enclosure to a small switch; then use a psu to power the pcb when not powered by a connector w/ 12v supply. Now I can test individual items as well.
Thought I'd clarify. The 2 wires to the capacitor (with a 9v battery connector) is just to make sure the test unit isn't fouled and can come alive if nothing happens when you plug in a PSU. I also have an eBay "XR-M229 ATX Power Supply Module Desktop Chassis Power Patch Output Board". If you plug the PSU into the output board, the PSU output wires/connects will go live. You can plug the 4-pin MOLEX large and small outputs to the tester and the 12v and 3.3v LEDs will light ...or... plug in the SATA output to get the 12v/5v/3.3v LEDs to light. Then again, if you put a load on the PSU, all can be checked with a DMM if you know the pinouts.
Maybe could have used Schottky diodes?
The boost and buck regulators are amazing, just use a somewhat long wire on the output side if used for radio, esp AM radio testing, as they are RF noisy in close proximity.
Hi Richard, could you please make one video on power supply modification with frankenstein method.
very cool thinking (ANDing all the input, I remember seeing that in a Microchip tricks paper), but I still fail to see the necessity for this Chinese gizmo as it is basically an inaccurate glorified voltmeter that shows 3 or 4 voltages at the same time. an arduino with a cheap lcd and an old motherboard/PC set of connectors and couple of hours of playing could give me something with more bells and whistles.
It also shows power good time, but if you only care for the voltages, you'd need an arduino with four analog ins to measure the four voltages, and you'd probably want to protect the analog ins from over voltage. Lots of (de)soldering as well, for the connections. Sounds like quite the hassle to me, and seeing that this "Chinese gizmo" costs about 12 euro on amazon, I personally would rather just buy that instead ;)
Great idea I must do this on mine. Not a criticism but I'm surprised you didn't connect the diodes direct to the ATX input pins and just "busbar" them together at the cathodes close to the connector. Only one wire then needed from the busbar to the boost converter input.
However, if it works ... It works!
Top Tip: As I said previously I need to do this to my own tester but on checking Ali Express I discovered THIS little gem ...
I know this is pretty old, but this is a new project to me. Could you jump the diodes from one leg of each pin (leg) to the next, then one wire to the boost module instead of landing all 4 on the module? Thanks. Great Content.
Or you could have simply used a 9v battery and an on/off switch ... or a 12v battery (23A, like a small AA battery) or stack 3 CR2032 batteries and disable the LCD backlight which consumes the most power. Since you use that device only for short periods of time, a battery would last you months/years.
Anyway, the tester is at best incomplete. It doesn't put a load on 5v stand-by to see if it craps out with some load (if capacitors go bad for example).
Yeah there are many ways to do this. I still think my method is more elegant and actually at a cost of €0.76, cheaper than one set of batteries!
I'm looking at another project to load the PSU :D
Yes thats what I would have done too ! Better power it from an usb connector cause batteries allways empty if you need them. These testers are junk as they are atm...
@@intrax2tv re: "Better power it from an usb connector "
One might run into 'ground loop' problems with that approach though ...
I plugged in only the 24pin from my PSU into the tester and got an LL on the 12V2 with beeping. Using my multimeter, I measured good 12V on all the 8pin connectors (yellow wires). When I connected one of these 8pin connectors to the tester, the PSU tripped and stayed tripped until I remove the 24pin connector and replug it in again, but this time without the 8pin connector. Is my PSU faulty?
You've probably found it out by now, but for others reading this: Your PSU is probably fine. 12V2 is for the 4, 6 or 8 pin 12 Volt connectors on the opposite side of the 24 pin connector. Also: there are different models of the tester that look identical. The version I've bought works with only the 24 pin connected, but 12V2 powers the backlight for the display.
7:31 - "Let's power up our power supply." Say _that_ three times in a row fast!
Could have tapped the molex connector out to an external socket, and retained that option since it might be useful later.
Regardless that's an awesome mod.
I have two power supply that i repaired, these are works with this tester but when i plug PSU on motherboard PSU doesnt work. What can i do? Did you face problem like these
that soldering made my eyeballs bleed!!!!
it worked though.... and still is 😃
Hi. Correct me if im wrong. Can i put diode only on 5Vsb? If no 5Vsb then no others voltages, so i think 5Vsb is enough. I don't have tester now (waiting for it). Thank You for your videos. Awesome job.
Yes you can just use 5VSB to power the step up converter. It is possible to have an ATX PSU with no 5VSB but other voltages are working, or at least that is possible when it is attached to an analyzer like these ones which don't need 5VSB present to start the PSU. I'm sure I talked about this possibility in the video - correct me if I am wrong.
@@LearnElectronicsRepair Sorry, maybe you mentioned it.Too much knowledge at once ;) (I watched all Your the videos about PSU repair in 3 days). Thank You for Your answer.
I didn't even know that ATX psu testers exist. I always wanted to build a simple tester to check how much current an ide or sata HDD draws before connecting it to an external usb interface.
Yeah it cost about €6.50 inc postage. For an extra 50 cents it would even have been useful! Ahh well it is now... and it made for an interesting video too :D
It does not load the PSU or measure the current drawn - but I am sure that mod will be the topic of another video soon.
Been around for years actually. I even bought mine about 16 years ago in Maplins! No longer in business though.
@@boblewis5558 Maplin went into administration in 2018 and closed all it's stores but it was reacquired or something in 2019 and changed to Maplin Online, I'm pretty sure they have some stores again now.
What caused it to fail later on?
You are right. I bought this after seeing it one of your early videos. It is pretty useless.
Hi Nasir - yes I am sorry about my earlier review of this item. I will leave the video up but pin some comments to that review and direct viewers here. You can see that these problems can be fixed and it's very cheap to make the mod - I hope maybe in time you will also mod yours.
Hi, That is the whole point of learning electronics. Going to do the mod now. Learned alot from this video too.
Have the newer ones been improved at all? I just bought one off of Amazon. I have revision 3.41 Date: 2022.10.06.
Is it just mine or everyone's pin 18 on 24 pin is connected to ground inside of this tester/device? Pin 18 is N/C NOT ground .. some psu manufacturers still keep compatibility with older standard where it is used for -5v rail . And it gets connected to ground using this device . I damaged couple of psu-s before i realized this .. Beware when using it
Greetings from Germany. Rick, I have a board from a HP UPS I messed around and got the magic smoke. I would be happy if you could help me diagnose it. I will make your while worth. thx
Could you not have just connected the 5v and 5v standby to the output of the 5v regulator via diodes? The tester wouldn't work if you only had 3v3, but if you have no 5v standby, no 5v and no 12v then you've got problems.
Couldn't you have broke the track just before the capacitor after the split in the 12-volt track and put a wire from 5 volts to the end of the voltage regulator
"piece of crap" love it :)
Hello. Great mod. If it were possible, could you tell me R29 code? Thank you very much.
I am drawing a simple circuit to put a load of 50W(Cement power resistor on parallel) on each 12V, 3.3v, 5v rail respectively controlled by a PST Switch , a Power On switch button, some leds on each rail, nothing fancy at all, terminals to easy attach a DMM to prove Voltage before put test load. Anyway, I think it is getting fine, because sometime I need to check if the PSU will work on load, but at the same time, Do you think guys I will be able to sell on ebay if people find it interesting?
I might buy a 2nd Tester to do that to - leave one as is! They are economically priced.
What if you put a battery in it?
Hi Jason - yes I am sure that there are a number of ways to do this - an external PSU for example or like you say, a battery. Probably you could connect a 9V battery feeding into the little 12V regulator and it should still give 5V out to the analyzer circuitry. You would need an on-off switch (or just disconnect the battery)
I wanted to find a way to do this mod so it fits inside the original casing, which is why I did it the way i did. I think that is probably the most elegant solution.
I'm far from being any kind of ATX power supply authority, but carefully watching your video brought to my attention that this "ATX PSU Tester" measures "12V1" and "12V2" (inferred from the LCD screen) which implies more than one 12V rail.
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Preliminary "google research" indicates that there is a single 12V rail for most ATX PSUs (and I believe in practice 99% of ATX PSUs on the market are probably single 12V rail), but there appears to be support for "multiple 12 volt rail" ATX PSUs.
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So I believe you have to deal with 3.3V, 5.0V, 5.0V STB, 12V1 & 12V2 which requires 5 and not 4 diode rectifiers.
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Your "mod" will work on "single 12V rail" ATX PSUs and not (as you wish) on "multiple 12 volt rail" ATX PSUs.
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Given that your ATX PSU Tester measures/monitors "12V1" and "12V2" (as seen on the LCD display) you are having to deal with possible "multiple 12 volt rail" ATX PSUs.
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One day you might be testing a "multiple 12 volt rail" ATX PSU where "12V2" is available and "12V1" is missing and your ATX PSU Tester will not power up.
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I really like your idea, but I would have used a tiny 12V alkaline battery (sometimes used in automotive remote controls) to provide "backup power" for the "ATX PSU Tester" to let it power up and if there was "12V1" or "12V2" then there would be zero battery drain, otherwise the tiny 12V alkaline battery would provide power (disable the LCD illumination LED for longer battery life) for the "ATX PSU Tester" if there was zero power from the PSU.
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Excellent video !!! I simply went along for the ride and followed the "bouncing ball" and saw the problem and solution with my eyes.
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Please read the following URL in regard to "multiple 12 volt rail" ATX PSUs to understand what "12V1" and "12V2" is all about.
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So what's all this rubbish about multiple 12 volt rails?
www.playtool.com/pages/psumultirail/multirails.html
The testers use 12V2 to indicate the voltage on the 4, 6 or 8 pin connectors on the opposite side of the 24 pin connector. Those are the CPU AUX / EPS and the PCIex graphics card connectors. Has nothing to do with the different 12 volt rails of a PSU.
I wanted to do this to my tester... However its welded shut,
Check which pin is used to power the tester. Then use a 24 pin ATX extension and put the boost converter output to that pin of the extension plug and connect the boost converter input to the extension socket via a combination of diodes or a selector switch. Easy peasy and no tester modification necessary.
@@chrishuhn5065 that's actually really smart
A very bad design and you fixed that :)
High Load PSU Tester: does anyone make?
Don't understand why you need the mod? If it does not come on then you know that the 12V rail is bad.
Hi steve
Watch this one
ruclips.net/video/LAfLC_XP7q4/видео.html
And this one
ruclips.net/video/z7lmSIyUXio/видео.html
Then I think the requirement for the modification will become pretty clear 😉
@@LearnElectronicsRepair uh, not really. If there is no 5V standby then it won't switch on so you just need to look at 5V standby. If it does switch on then it has 5V standby. If it switches on but you get no display then it has no 12V output.
Just warning: Resistors from aliexpress like you used are mostly fake, they stick to magnet. Normal resistors do not have legs that stick to magnets. Is there reliable source from aliexpress?
As luck would have it the fake resistor is working very well then. I suppose a definition of a fake resistor would be if it is A: the wrong value, B: various resistors of the same value are outside of tolerance if I test several of them or C: it can not dissipate the rated wattage. If it can do all of those then it would be working as expected so would genuienly be a component of the correct secification. I'm not sure how sticking to magnets would affect the operation of the resistor but I do have a spare magnet so I'll test some of these and also pull a few from some scrap motherboards and see how they compare. I'll show the results on one of my upcoming videos.
@@LearnElectronicsRepair Great, thank you. The fake resistors are nightmare to use in audio or analog radio/tuner related scenarios as magnetism interferes with frequency modulations etc.
Those resistors are not fake. They are genuine 1%(ish) resistors except they have steel legs that have been plated to accept solder just fine. That is why they are magnetic. If you project is critical, it may require regular resistors with copper legs which are more expensive. Those can be supplied by Digikey or Mouser, etc. For my projects, the cheap ones are just fine.
@@englishrupe01 All even the 0.1% resistors I got from farnell or ELFA catalogs are magnetic.
Hmm.....i guess you are right, then. I had not realized that quality resistors had also gone over to plated steel. I thought it was just my cheapskate stock. So even "normal" ones are plated now. Will have to recover some from old vintage circuit boards to sell to audiophiles, then....;-)
all PSU testers without load is useless
I think the chineesjes have some work to do ! These testers are junk...😇🐯 year of the tiger !