Blood grooves isn't a thing. They act as fullers with steel blades like on swords and knives. It gives rigidity and strength. It also helps keeps the arrow straight throughout its life.
The groove helps keep the arrow straight. When heated, the edge of the groove becomes harder than the rest of the arrow, reducing warpage. A groove that small would just instantly be filled with elastic tissue.
Thanks for the info. I think I would enjoy making an arrow. One arrow. Then back to my feather-fletched aluminum Easton arrows that I bought 3 years ago and have used almost everyday since. Still in like-new condition, and "straight as an arrow" in spite of being shot through 3/8" plywood and occasionally bouncing off rocks. I paid through the nose for them, the the sting has faded and I'm now left with outstanding arrows. One of the many considerable advantages of the aluminum Eastons is you can select the spine of the arrow to match your bow power so the arrow properly flexes around the bow as it passes over the arrow rest improving flight and accuracy. Still, handy skill to be able to make a genuine wooden arrow.
Thanks for the info. Regarding the grooves in your old arrows, in volume three of the Traditional Bowyer's Bible Jim Hamm seems to have solved the mystery. In his chapter on plains indian bows he wrote "one fine afternoon I grooved a set of arrows as soon as they were sized, then greased and heated them for the tedious straightening process, which normally took several days. The next morning, when I returned to heat and straighten the shafts yet again, I found it wasn't necessary, that the arrows had miraculously stayed straight and true as never before. I felt like a cartoon character when the giant lightbulb clicked on over my thick head. The grooves keep the shaft straight if they are heated. Ridiculously simple, as the most useful discoveries usually are, but here's how it works. Heating wood hardens it, so the ridge on the edges of each groove is exposed to more straightening heat and gets hotter, and harder, than the surrounding wood. The harder ridges, six of them if using three grooves, help prevent the shaft from warping.
Hey thank you for telling me and my dad how to make a bow and arrow that only Trace 24 minutes and I I Met You in Dogwood Canyon and today I made my own bow and arrow that works good great thank you and thank you.
Nice video! I collect and build arrows from about 7 varieties of wild shoots but mainly from red osier, black ash and white willow here around Austin, MN. I cut my fletching from wild turkey and Canada goose feathers. I believe the grooving was done, before heat treating, to aid in stiffening the shaft after the heat treat and to slightly lower the weight.
Excellent video, I would harvest these outside the growing season so from late autumn to early spring, as all trees/shrubs produce a new layer of wood during the growing season that is less strong and more prone to cracking during drying. Hazel shoots are my personal favorite.
I grabbed a piece of 2x4 and put slits in it and drilled different sized wholes into metal and put my shafts on a drilled and pushed them threw the holes and that helps shape and remove bark from my arrow shafts, but this has been the fastest method for me shaping my arrows and its better that using a knife and scraping it of.
I do not like all of the consumerism that archery has become. The fact remains that for centuries simple natural materials have yielded very potent hunting equipment. Yes, modern materials have their advantages but nothing can replace the experience of making your own hunting equipment. You will find that the most notable archers use conventional equipment. I believe that an archer is more in touch with their equipment if they produced it themselves.
Cool video bud enjoyed it , a always thought the groves that ran full length of the arrows was done to prevent them for warping in the heat . And the lightning bolts were in there opinion to make them fly faster n harder. Anyways take care. New subscriber also . Liam UK
Good video ,I am getting ready to cut the slits for the arrowheads and cut the selfnocks on some shafts that I have already straightened . I'm new to this and wanted to know which end of the shafts get the arrowhead and wich end get the nocks since saplings have a natural tapper . I would think the fatter end of the shafts would get the nock and the skinny end would get the arrowhead is this correct?
Dogwood shoots and river cane make good ones. Have considered hazel bushes but haven't tried them. Does anybody out there have any experience with them?
My personal favorite. Harvest from late autumn to early spring. I select the straighter ones and let them dry as is. Debarking is optional and does not affect flame straightening.
I don't believe those are blood grooves....I believe those grooves are for "micro blades" small pieces of flint either just mashed into the Wood grooves or used a pine tar glue was used to hold them in to make the arrow more lethal.
m.ruclips.net/video/NhRbGG_0kzc/видео.html The micro blades he puts on the arrow shaft I believe are still much to big....I believe they were about 1mm of protrusion from the shaft of the arrow. Also he only goes about 2” up the arrow shaft after he’s cut the grooves in the shaft but arrows have been discovered with micro blades and groves cut almost 3/4 of the shaft. hunting broadheads have been discovered that are about 3-4mm in width and length.
Blood grooves isn't a thing. They act as fullers with steel blades like on swords and knives. It gives rigidity and strength. It also helps keeps the arrow straight throughout its life.
The groove helps keep the arrow straight. When heated, the edge of the groove becomes harder than the rest of the arrow, reducing warpage. A groove that small would just instantly be filled with elastic tissue.
Thank you for that information
Thanks for the info. I think I would enjoy making an arrow. One arrow. Then back to my feather-fletched aluminum Easton arrows that I bought 3 years ago and have used almost everyday since. Still in like-new condition, and "straight as an arrow" in spite of being shot through 3/8" plywood and occasionally bouncing off rocks. I paid through the nose for them, the the sting has faded and I'm now left with outstanding arrows. One of the many considerable advantages of the aluminum Eastons is you can select the spine of the arrow to match your bow power so the arrow properly flexes around the bow as it passes over the arrow rest improving flight and accuracy. Still, handy skill to be able to make a genuine wooden arrow.
You are right, but still a unique satisfaction of having made a good arrow from natural find!
Thanks for the info. Regarding the grooves in your old arrows, in volume three of the Traditional Bowyer's Bible Jim Hamm seems to have solved the mystery. In his chapter on plains indian bows he wrote "one fine afternoon I grooved a set of arrows as soon as they were sized, then greased and heated them for the tedious straightening process, which normally took several days. The next morning, when I returned to heat and straighten the shafts yet again, I found it wasn't necessary, that the arrows had miraculously stayed straight and true as never before. I felt like a cartoon character when the giant lightbulb clicked on over my thick head. The grooves keep the shaft straight if they are heated. Ridiculously simple, as the most useful discoveries usually are, but here's how it works. Heating wood hardens it, so the ridge on the edges of each groove is exposed to more straightening heat and gets hotter, and harder, than the surrounding wood. The harder ridges, six of them if using three grooves, help prevent the shaft from warping.
Thank you my friend for this information--- Don
Hey thank you for telling me and my dad how to make a bow and arrow that only Trace 24 minutes and I I Met You in Dogwood Canyon and today I made my own bow and arrow that works good great thank you and thank you.
Hi
Nice video! I collect and build arrows from about 7 varieties of wild shoots but mainly from red osier, black ash and white willow here around Austin, MN. I cut my fletching from wild turkey and Canada goose feathers. I believe the grooving was done, before heat treating, to aid in stiffening the shaft after the heat treat and to slightly lower the weight.
Thank you for your thoughts on the grooving, much appreciated--- your friend---Don
i have viburnum shafts now i gotta straighten them. thank you for sharing your technique with all!
You're so welcome!
Donald Porta ima dip the ends in wood glue so they dont check after i strip the bark
Excellent video, I would harvest these outside the growing season so from late autumn to early spring, as all trees/shrubs produce a new layer of wood during the growing season that is less strong and more prone to cracking during drying. Hazel shoots are my personal favorite.
Once again...youtube video from 7 years ago saves the day
Thank you for sharing
Interesting subject
👍 just subscribed 👍
I grabbed a piece of 2x4 and put slits in it and drilled different sized wholes into metal and put my shafts on a drilled and pushed them threw the holes and that helps shape and remove bark from my arrow shafts, but this has been the fastest method for me shaping my arrows and its better that using a knife and scraping it of.
Finaly this is what i looking for thanks You so much 😃💪
You're welcome 😊
I just smell the scent of freshly debarked greenwood from the video... Best smell ever apart from freshly cut grass...
I do not like all of the consumerism that archery has become. The fact remains that for centuries simple natural materials have yielded very potent hunting equipment. Yes, modern materials have their advantages but nothing can replace the experience of making your own hunting equipment. You will find that the most notable archers use conventional equipment. I believe that an archer is more in touch with their equipment if they produced it themselves.
Interesting and useful, TY.
Glad it was helpful!
Cool video bud enjoyed it , a always thought the groves that ran full length of the arrows was done to prevent them for warping in the heat . And the lightning bolts were in there opinion to make them fly faster n harder. Anyways take care. New subscriber also . Liam UK
Great informative video ! How did you aquire those old arrows ? Those old arrows are very cool !
Very interesting 😊
Great video! Thanks for the info! Awesome old arrows how did you attain them ?
They were gifted to me by an older native, said I would cherish them!
ruclips.net/video/jOcvkeiBDjQ/видео.html
how much does drying affect the arrows made from green shaft wood?
Thanks, Daniel
I straighten them over a flame and when I am done the wood is seasoned and should keep it's shape
Would those arrow shafts also work for a hand drill spindle?
yes
Very cool old arrows ! Where did you get them !
Good video ,I am getting ready to cut the slits for the arrowheads and cut the selfnocks on some shafts that I have already straightened . I'm new to this and wanted to know which end of the shafts get the arrowhead and wich end get the nocks since saplings have a natural tapper . I would think the fatter end of the shafts would get the nock and the skinny end would get the arrowhead is this correct?
that is right. Nock gets the larger end!
@@donaldporta thanks
I always look for arrow shafts at my house but no tree has them
Look for the small shrubs or new tree seedlings
JA X try searching for young tulip poplar
Do you have an opinion on how efficient these arrows were compared to modern ones. (Though I see little difference...)
Dogwood shoots and river cane make good ones. Have considered hazel bushes but haven't tried them. Does anybody out there have any experience with them?
Hazel is number 1
My personal favorite. Harvest from late autumn to early spring. I select the straighter ones and let them dry as is. Debarking is optional and does not affect flame straightening.
@@dragoscoco2173 thanks for the reply.
I don't believe those are blood grooves....I believe those grooves are for "micro blades" small pieces of flint either just mashed into the
Wood grooves or used a pine tar glue was used to hold them in to make the arrow more lethal.
Blades set like that would slice up the bow and the archer’s hand real fast. 0/10 would not recommend.
m.ruclips.net/video/NhRbGG_0kzc/видео.html
The micro blades he puts on the arrow shaft I believe are still much to big....I believe they were about 1mm of protrusion from the shaft of the arrow. Also he only goes about 2” up the arrow shaft after he’s cut the grooves in the shaft but arrows have been discovered with micro blades and groves cut almost 3/4 of the shaft. hunting broadheads have been discovered that are about 3-4mm in width and length.
Do you have the name of this shrub for us Donald ?it seems like a bush for blueberries but I'm not sure ?!!
You in the Pittsburgh area?
grew up there. spend the winters in FL. there in the summer.
@@donaldporta awesome, Im in the Crafton/Ingram area, lets shoot bow this summer if your down
Will do--- keep in touch,
hey my friend
ruclips.net/video/jOcvkeiBDjQ/видео.html
Making those badboys straight is hard. I seem to have bent mine more!
I use a candle or oil lamp on a table to straighten them. It is finicky at first but it gets very easy with a bit of experience.
This is what I call true wooden aroww
ruclips.net/video/jOcvkeiBDjQ/видео.html
@@saikiran-jq2ns you too that's cool
@@lukasonusaitis5456 tq.
@@lukasonusaitis5456hey lukas do you have whatsapp.
Sugoi arrows
Not blood grooves.
what you
ruclips.net/video/jOcvkeiBDjQ/видео.html
Jesus was the mic in your sock ?
Have you tried Chinese bamboo?
A kind of bamboo that is not hollow. Only in Chenzhou, Hunan Province