I love how everyone here chimes in about how they do things better, yet they are the ones watching a "how to" video. I will have this in my bag of tricks and it will probably really help me some day. Thanks!
He's obviously learning and experimenting in this video. There are likely plenty of commenters here that have done this more than him. *I've yet to do this. But I watch plenty of "how to" videos for things I know how to do. And plenty of others do the same.
Chamfer your edges with a steeper angle that way you have a much larger surface area for the Weld or Braise rod to adhere to. Which in turn will create a much much stronger joint !
Great tip. With standard welding im looking for penetration at the joint when i chamfer, But thats a great point since its more of an adherence on the surface
I'm looking to build a structural wall out of Aluminum and I plan on brazing it. The structural wall will be going into the back of my transit, and a piece of 1/2 wood will be screwed to that aluminum. The wall will be used to hold my Air, vaccum, and pressure washer hose reel. about 300-400lbs. Would brazing have the structural integrity to hold that kind of weight?
What I learned from a similar alu braze product years ago, is to scratch the surfaces of the areas your braze bead lays on with a sharp pointy metal pen INSIDE the liquid hot bead before letting it cool. Aluminium reoxidizes almost instantly after you remove it with your brush or sandpaper. By scratching open this tiny new alu-oxide layer inside the hot bead, there is no oxigen to mess up the bond again. Good luck!
RUclipsr "This Old Tony" is the master of cutting metal via karate chop. I've watched an re-watched his technique, but I'm yet to get the super-clean cuts in steel that he gets...
They make paint pens that change color when certain temperatures are reached for different processes. So you pick the closes temperature pen to melt the brazing rod .
Oh many things. Brazing doesnt need the chamfer. That is for welding. Brazing just wicks into the joint. Flux will help / should be used. For cleaning the carbon brush may contaminate the aluminum. You should use SS, and then clean with iso-p or acetone before fluxing and then brazing. Braze will run towards the heat. But brazing is a great way to build a frame without a welder!
Good video. I dont have a welder so this is good to know. Bicycle frames are brazed usually with bronze and are plenty strong enough. Brazing deserves more respect than it gets. Some things dont need to be molecularly bonded for what it is, like in woodworking, not every joint needs to be a dovetail joint, sometimes a nail and glue is enough, sometimes brazing is enough.
I previously had a job making flex-wing microlights where we used aluminium tube for the structure of the wing; we used a chop saw (eventually got a aluminium specific blade for it after some strong words from me :-) ) and one of the best pieces of advice is keep a can of WD-40 next to it to spray the blade before cutting as the ally is so soft and will 'gum' up the teeth of the blade, reducing it's effectiveness very quickly!!
I appreciate the testing and learning on camera. I find it very helpful to understand WHY I should do a specific step that's laid out. Also, I was confused as to why the table didn't have an enclosed square base, but then I saw how you had it positioned next to the chair. As a professional cleaner, I appreciate that open end for easier floor cleaning! I found your video fun and informative, I dig your style.
Dear John, thanks for this teaching and entertaining tutorial! The table i will definitely rebuild as my first try in brazing! Greetings from Germany and have a great week 👍🌞🍀
Wow this is fricken awesome. I spent all last night blowing through some half inch by half inch aluminum square tube and I’m definitely going to give this a try
Not bad at all. You do great work. I think I would've v'ed the ends a little more, BUT if it holds you, that works. And that's the name of the game. Have a blessed day.
I gave it a thumbs up just because we weigh the same....you wear it better than I do. Oh and now I'm going to try and implement some of this on a piece of aluminum lawn furniture...and maybe on a cart I use to haul sound system stuff into music gigs.
You got more power tools in there than I’ve ever owned in my life. Your using a chop saw were I’m using a hack saw to build a truck camper, truly hand built on my end. Using a flux would give you a faster and better results.
When you're braising, you don't need clamping pressure, you only need to hold the parts together for the heat to dissipate. A good way of knowing when you have clamped down enough, is if you can hold a piece of paper in place, you've got enough holding force.
Absolutely loved the video I’m building a fold out bed in the back of my Jeep for camping and this just inspired me to take a totally different route. Probably gonna make a lot of mistakes at first but we’ll see. Also thanks for supporting the USMC.
Things that can be done on site and on-the-fly are the best and you nailed it. I didn't learn any skill that I didn't know already, but I was surprised at the strength...so, umm...thanks.
Adding an acetone wipe down to your prep would increase the efficiency and adherence of those brazes. There are a lot of oils, oxides and other impurities hanging out on the surface of aluminum.
I doubt any oils will survive the brazing temperature and the main oxide is aluminum oxide which naturally forms in air, that’s what the wire brush is for. Other oxides will be unaffected by a solvent wipe. Acetone might clean off some old paint but so will the wire brush. Acetone sounds like a waste of time but when you do use it, put it far away when you start brazing.
@@klave8511 Why would anyone really care what some rando on YT 'thinks' when most brazing rod manf's recommend degreasing? Obviously they don't know what they're talking about...
Sometimes when I'm having a complicated day and I need a second to cool off, I'll watch your videos for a laugh and some education. Keep posting, man. We appreciate you!
Nice video, The wood and black metal look really nice together. A couple of tips for working with aluminum. If you do much filing you will find your files loaded with aluminum. Loading them first with chalk, the big sidewalk chalk works fine, will make them easier to keep clean. Also, I did not see John mention it in the video but usually the aluminum filler rod requires you to use a stainless steel brush to clean your base metal aluminum.
Good points George, i was trying to keep it as basic as i could, I honestly will probably never use this for a furniture build again. But it was a good experience to learn
Hi John, just caught your video. After reading some of the comments I have to say you handle bad comments well. While everyone has an opinion some should refrain. You obviously have skills in welding and trying something new is always a learning process. So my opinion, at least you tried and I got to learn some useful things from your failure and successes. I just liked and subscribed and look forward to viewing your other videos. My dad used to say "even a fool can teach you something if you're willing to listen". (Not implying anything here) I learn something from everyone everyday. Keep up the good work!
Between the video, which is great by the way, and the comments I have learned enough to think I am gonna be able to build a trailer for hauling stuff with my mountain bike.
Just a heads up, the map gas does not burn “a lot” hotter that the propane, only 130 degrees according to bernzomatics website. Cost analysis between the two, with map being 10 dollars a bottle, and propane about 3-4 dollars a bottle, propane is the way to go
When i where in the Navi in the beginning of the 90:s i got the order to "solder" 5mm aluminium. I really had my doubts about but it turned out great, sp i had to do 20 antenna masts.... I havent touched a welder or anything like it since those days and i thought it where a common practise today.
next time heat the joint from the bottom, and you can get all sides at once. move the torch around to even out the heat. no need to clamp tightly, in fact you could just make a jig to hold the pieces at 90 degrees
You have a way to teach that is so awesome and enjoyable. I had to subscribe after the first video I watched. Keep making videos and I'll enjoy every moment.
Use a brazing attachment, not a soldering torch attachment. Super fine flame, make a pool and push the pool, filler rod when it burns too thin (easy with aluminium). That is "Brazing", which is what you want to do with a gas torch and any metal.
Great video here… love the added humour. I’m making a lawn leveller out of aluminum. I was going to rivet the aluminum,but after watching this video,I’d like to give brazing a try. What kind of brazing rods should I use? Thanks!
its interesting the little things dropped in to your vids here and there. When you watch a few of them it starts to form a larger picture. In another vid you made just recently you mentioned you used to play pro football, in this one you mentioned suffering from CTE which is often associated with athletes that can suffer from blows to the head and concussions, often the case with pro football. I hope this condition is manageable for you and you are getting help with how to stop or slow the progression. Its something that is really not talked about enough and its good that you are ok to mention it, not in a victim way as say many people do, but just mentioning it. I like to see the human side of people and this brief mention does that. Take care of yourself John.
I will be making a chimney cap this winter so deciding between using aluminum or steel, I know that the steel welds will be strong but like the idea of aluminum for weight and corrosion outside in New England weather. After watching this thinking the aluminum rods may be the way to go. Shouldn't have any pressure/forces applied when installed but want to make sure it holds up to wind.
Aluminum forms an oxide layer very quickly that will reduce the strength of the joint. An aluminum brazing flux could be added after sanding off the oxide layer
I am thinking about constructing a specialized small infrared thermometer with a warning signals when aluminum is ready for brazing and other signals when it is overheated. I guess it would make brazing aluminum ten times easier
Hey man, thanks not only for your top video, also for your humor too 👍🙂 I just drew up a quick design for a folding front bench I'm going to bolt to the front of my home. Thanks bro
I had no idea this was possible, John. As someone who hasn't ventured down the welding road yet, this is a super intriguing process. And I really like the design too!
One thing that is questionable here is the use of a carbon steel wire brush to clean the metal. You should use a stainless brush. Carbon brushes can contaminate your parent material and make it harder to braze or weld. Stainless won't.
This is from Lincoln Electric's web site. Base-metal preparation: To weld aluminum, operators must take care to clean the base material and remove any aluminum oxide and hydrocarbon contamination from oils or cutting solvents. Aluminum oxide on the surface of the material melts at 3,700 F while the base-material aluminum underneath will melt at 1,200 F. Therefore, leaving any oxide on the surface of the base material will inhibit penetration of the filler metal into the workpiece. To remove aluminum oxides, use a stainless-steel bristle wire brush or solvents and etching solutions. When using a stainless-steel brush, brush only in one direction. Take care to not brush too roughly: rough brushing can further imbed the oxides in the work piece. Also, use the brush only on aluminum work-don't clean aluminum with a brush that's been used on stainless or carbon steel. When using chemical etching solutions, make sure to remove them from the work before welding. To minimize the risk of hydrocarbons from oils or cutting solvents entering the weld, remove them with a degreaser. Check that the degreaser does not contain any hydrocarbons.
Excellent tips. Also, consider brazing with eutectic and/or silver solder (hard solder) rods. They can get up to 70ksi. For making drill press, bandsaw, or other light duty stands out of old bed frames. I use a cheap $20 laser temp gun (kitchen prep) to check metal temp in addition to kitchen use and dog exercising... Don't overheat your metal, run your rod along the joint every so often to find out when its up to temp.
He Guys I am a farrier or blacksmith give it a name but anyway. sometimes wen I need to make a aluminum horseshoe and you need to know if it’s on the right temperature heat up the aluminum and strike it across with the back side of your hickory handle from your forging hammer and wen it leaves a black mark it’s ok to bend/forge wen the mark dissolves in a few seconds it’s to hot and your piece is messed up and can throw it away because it’s going to break. And if the wooden handle doesn’t leave a mark at all it’s to cold to bend or forge. And it also works with a bar of soap 🧼 I believe put it on an heat up and it’s discoloring also wen the right temp is reached but I always have a hammer in my working space so that’s works for me i keep my soap in the bathroom.
I was wondering what the weight capacity of of that box would be and you standing on it proves to me that its pretty strong. I want to make a rickshaw for my soon to be electrified trike so that I can take my two kids for bike rides when they don't want to ride their own. I really didnt not want to go out and buy a welder and this was the second video that I watched.
I love how as soon as John takes his finger of the rattle can he takes his respirator off. Like there is no chance of fumes being in the air. Shits squirrelly.
I'm no expert, however you should be brazing a bit like you do soldering pipe. Heat the entire joint and surrounding area. Especially as it is aluminum which sucks heat. You should be able to get the top joint, both sides and the bottom in one run, needing to pull heat away as you get to the bottom. Quite different than welding, however works great for old bed frames and such that you don't want embrittled with work hardening.
Interesting! I made a similar table but a bit more industrial- 90’ angle Aluminium, riveted together and painted black with Hammerite Going to try Alu brazing....
tip for you. use sandpaper and rub the area where you are welding, insert the wooden piece inside the aluminum, it will resist and give some strength to the aluminum. after welding put the piece inside the water. now remove the wooden piece. done.
Great video. Possible solution for me. There are also some helpful comments below (spoiler alert...you also have to read some pretty dumb stuff to find the good stuff) with additional info. Thanks John Malecki...love your work.
Hey John I really really like all the humors and a double impersonator you are awesome I really enjoyed watching your videos your amazing thank you. You made laught, your really really awesome and great videos
John you're awesome thanks for sharing and including those mishaps, my wife says that you're twin from the day before is better looking, sorry. Great job.
Aluminum oxidizes very quickly, forming a transparent ceramic. To use the alloy weld, you gotta rub the stick where you want to stay. Rubbing makes it so it will fuse well below the aluminum melt temp. RUB IT IN! Thanks.
@@John_Malecki I usually use a piece of (steel) filler rod to scrape the layer of aluminum under the braze puddle. The stuff was unusable until I learned to do that.
I've worked with this product. This stuff is good for only a very limited set of applications. As you you saw, when bonding multiple sided joints you end up re-melting one seem while trying to bond the other adjacent seems. His standing weight test was bogus, he stood on a board supported by the aluminum columns, not with the board soley supported by the joins. He would have snapped straight thru if he did. If you need to support any kind of weight at the actual joins use a tig or mig welder set up for aluminum.
Yea it was not the easiest thing ive put together. MIG or TIG is a better application, A lot of people dont want to get into the cost of those machines tho
FYI, find someone's old clapped out chop saw for $25 and throw the Diablo metal cutting blade on it for $36. Just as good as that metal cutting chop saw you see in a lot of recent videos.
AMAZING video. I'm on the fence as to whether or not I should attempt to do this for a studio desk. I may have to. Depending on the cost of the aluminum. 🤔
K man.. not good my parents where out so I tried to do it all .. and long story short.. I'm standing outside and I'm so much shit right now.. the house is bruning like a mofo... Thanks man .. thanks a lot.. last time I listen to you
Hey, quick question. How long of a span can I do before one end starts the cooling process? I am not joining at a corner, but joining 2 square tubes together, roughly 2 feet. Thanks
I love how everyone here chimes in about how they do things better, yet they are the ones watching a "how to" video. I will have this in my bag of tricks and it will probably really help me some day. Thanks!
He's obviously learning and experimenting in this video. There are likely plenty of commenters here that have done this more than him.
*I've yet to do this. But I watch plenty of "how to" videos for things I know how to do. And plenty of others do the same.
Chamfer your edges with a steeper angle that way you have a much larger surface area for the Weld or Braise rod to adhere to. Which in turn will create a much much stronger joint !
Great tip. With standard welding im looking for penetration at the joint when i chamfer, But thats a great point since its more of an adherence on the surface
I'm looking to build a structural wall out of Aluminum and I plan on brazing it. The structural wall will be going into the back of my transit, and a piece of 1/2 wood will be screwed to that aluminum. The wall will be used to hold my Air, vaccum, and pressure washer hose reel. about 300-400lbs. Would brazing have the structural integrity to hold that kind of weight?
What I learned from a similar alu braze product years ago, is to scratch the surfaces of the areas your braze bead lays on with a sharp pointy metal pen INSIDE the liquid hot bead before letting it cool.
Aluminium reoxidizes almost instantly after you remove it with your brush or sandpaper. By scratching open this tiny new alu-oxide layer inside the hot bead, there is no oxigen to mess up the bond again.
Good luck!
Wow. Someone that actually knows.
I don't have a chop saw, could you please do a video demonstrating the karate chop method, thanks
RUclipsr "This Old Tony" is the master of cutting metal via karate chop. I've watched an re-watched his technique, but I'm yet to get the super-clean cuts in steel that he gets...
@@tomdchi12 its all in the elbow, give it a little extra "Flick" right before impact, works for me every time
@@tomdchi12 its aluminium not steel
A hack saw will get you going
They make paint pens that change color when certain temperatures are reached for different processes. So you pick the closes temperature pen to melt the brazing rod .
Why not just point that non contact temperature reader at it , the one you got for COVID.
@@chrisbraid2907 because they max out at only 150 degrees Fahrenheit
Oh many things.
Brazing doesnt need the chamfer. That is for welding. Brazing just wicks into the joint. Flux will help / should be used.
For cleaning the carbon brush may contaminate the aluminum. You should use SS, and then clean with iso-p or acetone before fluxing and then brazing.
Braze will run towards the heat.
But brazing is a great way to build a frame without a welder!
you dont use flux with aluminum rods.
Good video. I dont have a welder so this is good to know. Bicycle frames are brazed usually with bronze and are plenty strong enough. Brazing deserves more respect than it gets. Some things dont need to be molecularly bonded for what it is, like in woodworking, not every joint needs to be a dovetail joint, sometimes a nail and glue is enough, sometimes brazing is enough.
I previously had a job making flex-wing microlights where we used aluminium tube for the structure of the wing; we used a chop saw (eventually got a aluminium specific blade for it after some strong words from me :-) ) and one of the best pieces of advice is keep a can of WD-40 next to it to spray the blade before cutting as the ally is so soft and will 'gum' up the teeth of the blade, reducing it's effectiveness very quickly!!
You made it look so easy for anyone with a moderate workshop to make a clean, tidy, cool piece of furniture.
Lmao. Yes he does make it look easy. He is just really really good at it. He is a great maker
I appreciate the testing and learning on camera. I find it very helpful to understand WHY I should do a specific step that's laid out. Also, I was confused as to why the table didn't have an enclosed square base, but then I saw how you had it positioned next to the chair. As a professional cleaner, I appreciate that open end for easier floor cleaning!
I found your video fun and informative, I dig your style.
As a heavy builder I hit subscribe when you stood on your work.
Thanks David !
Lol
Dear John, thanks for this teaching and entertaining tutorial! The table i will definitely rebuild as my first try in brazing! Greetings from Germany and have a great week 👍🌞🍀
Wow this is fricken awesome. I spent all last night blowing through some half inch by half inch aluminum square tube and I’m definitely going to give this a try
Not bad at all. You do great work. I think I would've v'ed the ends a little more, BUT if it holds you, that works. And that's the name of the game. Have a blessed day.
I gave it a thumbs up just because we weigh the same....you wear it better than I do. Oh and now I'm going to try and implement some of this on a piece of aluminum lawn furniture...and maybe on a cart I use to haul sound system stuff into music gigs.
You got more power tools in there than I’ve ever owned in my life. Your using a chop saw were I’m using a hack saw to build a truck camper, truly hand built on my end.
Using a flux would give you a faster and better results.
Well done sir. Well produced and especially liked how you showed your mistakes. Thanks
Thanks Brad!
When you're braising, you don't need clamping pressure, you only need to hold the parts together for the heat to dissipate. A good way of knowing when you have clamped down enough, is if you can hold a piece of paper in place, you've got enough holding force.
Absolutely loved the video I’m building a fold out bed in the back of my Jeep for camping and this just inspired me to take a totally different route. Probably gonna make a lot of mistakes at first but we’ll see. Also thanks for supporting the USMC.
Things that can be done on site and on-the-fly are the best and you nailed it. I didn't learn any skill that I didn't know already, but I was surprised at the strength...so, umm...thanks.
Thanks Robin. Glad you checked it out
In the aluminum screen enclosure world here in Florida we use a little silicon spray lube when we cut aluminum. Keeps the carbide blades sharp.
Thanks for captioning your videos. I've used this stuff in the past, it's pretty finicky (especially with propane) but it does work as you showed.
Thank you! Its a solid option if you dont have a welder
Adding an acetone wipe down to your prep would increase the efficiency and adherence of those brazes. There are a lot of oils, oxides and other impurities hanging out on the surface of aluminum.
I doubt any oils will survive the brazing temperature and the main oxide is aluminum oxide which naturally forms in air, that’s what the wire brush is for. Other oxides will be unaffected by a solvent wipe. Acetone might clean off some old paint but so will the wire brush. Acetone sounds like a waste of time but when you do use it, put it far away when you start brazing.
@@klave8511 Why would anyone really care what some rando on YT 'thinks' when most brazing rod manf's recommend degreasing? Obviously they don't know what they're talking about...
Sometimes when I'm having a complicated day and I need a second to cool off, I'll watch your videos for a laugh and some education. Keep posting, man. We appreciate you!
Nice video, The wood and black metal look really nice together. A couple of tips for working with aluminum. If you do much filing you will find your files loaded with aluminum. Loading them first with chalk, the big sidewalk chalk works fine, will make them easier to keep clean. Also, I did not see John mention it in the video but usually the aluminum filler rod requires you to use a stainless steel brush to clean your base metal aluminum.
Good points George, i was trying to keep it as basic as i could, I honestly will probably never use this for a furniture build again. But it was a good experience to learn
Hi John, just caught your video. After reading some of the comments I have to say you handle bad comments well. While everyone has an opinion some should refrain. You obviously have skills in welding and trying something new is always a learning process. So my opinion, at least you tried and I got to learn some useful things from your failure and successes. I just liked and subscribed and look forward to viewing your other videos. My dad used to say "even a fool can teach you something if you're willing to listen". (Not implying anything here) I learn something from everyone everyday. Keep up the good work!
Between the video, which is great by the way, and the comments I have learned enough to think I am gonna be able to build a trailer for hauling stuff with my mountain bike.
Awesome video John. I plan on adding this to my arsenal of tricks and applying that to some future projects.
Glad you dig it Scott !
Just a heads up, the map gas does not burn “a lot” hotter that the propane, only 130 degrees according to bernzomatics website. Cost analysis between the two, with map being 10 dollars a bottle, and propane about 3-4 dollars a bottle, propane is the way to go
1. Jump! 2. Looks pretty 3. This was fun and educative.
When i where in the Navi in the beginning of the 90:s i got the order to "solder" 5mm aluminium.
I really had my doubts about but it turned out great, sp i had to do 20 antenna masts....
I havent touched a welder or anything like it since those days and i thought it where a common practise today.
Nice job! The aluminum brazing rod I use says they recommend using a stainless steel brush. It might help the adhesion! Cheers
next time heat the joint from the bottom, and you can get all sides at once. move the torch around to even out the heat. no need to clamp tightly, in fact you could just make a jig to hold the pieces at 90 degrees
Awesome advice!
You have a way to teach that is so awesome and enjoyable. I had to subscribe after the first video I watched. Keep making videos and I'll enjoy every moment.
Use a brazing attachment, not a soldering torch attachment. Super fine flame, make a pool and push the pool, filler rod when it burns too thin (easy with aluminium). That is "Brazing", which is what you want to do with a gas torch and any metal.
Great video here… love the added humour. I’m making a lawn leveller out of aluminum. I was going to rivet the aluminum,but after watching this video,I’d like to give brazing a try. What kind of brazing rods should I use? Thanks!
its interesting the little things dropped in to your vids here and there. When you watch a few of them it starts to form a larger picture. In another vid you made just recently you mentioned you used to play pro football, in this one you mentioned suffering from CTE which is often associated with athletes that can suffer from blows to the head and concussions, often the case with pro football. I hope this condition is manageable for you and you are getting help with how to stop or slow the progression. Its something that is really not talked about enough and its good that you are ok to mention it, not in a victim way as say many people do, but just mentioning it. I like to see the human side of people and this brief mention does that. Take care of yourself John.
I will be making a chimney cap this winter so deciding between using aluminum or steel, I know that the steel welds will be strong but like the idea of aluminum for weight and corrosion outside in New England weather. After watching this thinking the aluminum rods may be the way to go. Shouldn't have any pressure/forces applied when installed but want to make sure it holds up to wind.
I was waiting for the ear splitting shriek as you cut the aluminum, nice muting job. Cool video, learned something.
Aluminum forms an oxide layer very quickly that will reduce the strength of the joint. An aluminum brazing flux could be added after sanding off the oxide layer
Thanks John. So funny to watch and I learned something today. Love your Video
I've been wanting to do some brazing, just haven't gotten around to it. Maybe I'll play around with it this weekend. Thanks for the inspiration!
Glad you felt inspired my friend!
I am thinking about constructing a specialized small infrared thermometer with a warning signals when aluminum is ready for brazing and other signals when it is overheated.
I guess it would make brazing aluminum ten times easier
That would be awesome!! I would buy one.
A stainless steel wire brush would probably be a little better for prep work on AL.
👍Great Channel & Content.
Long time subscriber.
Hey man, thanks not only for your top video, also for your humor too 👍🙂 I just drew up a quick design for a folding front bench I'm going to bolt to the front of my home. Thanks bro
Good Luck!
I had no idea this was possible, John. As someone who hasn't ventured down the welding road yet, this is a super intriguing process. And I really like the design too!
Its a solid experiment and learning curve for sure
That was great. I learned a lot. I love building things and your channel helps.
One thing that is questionable here is the use of a carbon steel wire brush to clean the metal. You should use a stainless brush. Carbon brushes can contaminate your parent material and make it harder to braze or weld. Stainless won't.
Thanks Scooter. Noted
Also use soldering paste to prevent oxidation of aluminum due to heat. Solder does not stick to aluminum-oxide
This is from Lincoln Electric's web site. Base-metal preparation: To weld aluminum, operators must take care to clean the base material and remove any aluminum oxide and hydrocarbon contamination from oils or cutting solvents. Aluminum oxide on the surface of the material melts at 3,700 F while the base-material aluminum underneath will melt at 1,200 F. Therefore, leaving any oxide on the surface of the base material will inhibit penetration of the filler metal into the workpiece. To remove aluminum oxides, use a stainless-steel bristle wire brush or solvents and etching solutions. When using a stainless-steel brush, brush only in one direction. Take care to not brush too roughly: rough brushing can further imbed the oxides in the work piece. Also, use the brush only on aluminum work-don't clean aluminum with a brush that's been used on stainless or carbon steel. When using chemical etching solutions, make sure to remove them from the work before welding. To minimize the risk of hydrocarbons from oils or cutting solvents entering the weld, remove them with a degreaser. Check that the degreaser does not contain any hydrocarbons.
Excellent tips. Also, consider brazing with eutectic and/or silver solder (hard solder) rods. They can get up to 70ksi. For making drill press, bandsaw, or other light duty stands out of old bed frames. I use a cheap $20 laser temp gun (kitchen prep) to check metal temp in addition to kitchen use and dog exercising...
Don't overheat your metal, run your rod along the joint every so often to find out when its up to temp.
That fakie camera pass and the quick cuts, someone’s been watching Peter McKinnon 😉
hes our dad!
John Malecki You sir just earned a sub (for this as well as the awesome content!)
Wowww..at 9.44s got shock..nice edit man.
good job sir.. this is why i always wan to work in our place 😍
He Guys I am a farrier or blacksmith give it a name but anyway.
sometimes wen I need to make a aluminum horseshoe and you need to know if it’s on the right temperature heat up the aluminum and strike it across with the back side of your hickory handle from your forging hammer and wen it leaves a black mark it’s ok to bend/forge wen the mark dissolves in a few seconds it’s to hot and your piece is messed up and can throw it away because it’s going to break.
And if the wooden handle doesn’t leave a mark at all it’s to cold to bend or forge. And it also works with a bar of soap 🧼 I believe put it on an heat up and it’s discoloring also wen the right temp is reached but I always have a hammer in my working space so that’s works for me i keep my soap in the bathroom.
Great tip!!
Why not just have a piece of solder that'll melt at the temp you are shooting for, or a cheap laser temp gun for $20.
First video I watched and I already like this channel😎😎😎😎
I was wondering what the weight capacity of of that box would be and you standing on it proves to me that its pretty strong. I want to make a rickshaw for my soon to be electrified trike so that I can take my two kids for bike rides when they don't want to ride their own. I really didnt not want to go out and buy a welder and this was the second video that I watched.
Love it. Specially it is so light.
Nice instructive -- and hilariously entertaining -- craft video. Keep up the great work, good sir!
Do you not need flux to braze aluminium? A very useful and informative video, thank you.
Its in the rod
I love how as soon as John takes his finger of the rattle can he takes his respirator off. Like there is no chance of fumes being in the air. Shits squirrelly.
John this is awesome gonna make potentially making table bases allot better for me. Is this really though as easy as you make it look.?? 👍🏴
I'm no expert, however you should be brazing a bit like you do soldering pipe. Heat the entire joint and surrounding area. Especially as it is aluminum which sucks heat. You should be able to get the top joint, both sides and the bottom in one run, needing to pull heat away as you get to the bottom. Quite different than welding, however works great for old bed frames and such that you don't want embrittled with work hardening.
I like it..here watching from Philippines ✌️❤️👍
Interesting! I made a similar table but a bit more industrial- 90’ angle Aluminium, riveted together and painted black with Hammerite
Going to try Alu brazing....
Cool to see how your shop has progressed over time ha ha ha
Fascinating. Be nice to see 45 degrees joints being brazed. 👍
Wood color looks great with the paint.
Thanks P!
HI, I have found if i use a ceramic tile between the clamp and aluminium, the heating time is reduced and the clamps dont mark the aluminium
Great video! WOuld you be able to make a base for chairs like this as well?
Very nice piece of furniture...
It came out decent, thank you Bud
Love u and this video! Just what I needed to get me started. I have ideas but not the special tools!
tip for you. use sandpaper and rub the area where you are welding, insert the wooden piece inside the aluminum, it will resist and give some strength to the aluminum. after welding put the piece inside the water. now remove the wooden piece. done.
Nailed it, you're like my little savior on this post Michael, really appreciate it!
Haha - the succulent in the can was a nice touch lol. All jokes aside, fun video, thanks for sharing!
GLad you enjoyed it Donovan
I love your some act of using tools 😍
Just be glad Sam didn’t stand on the frame. He would have crushed it 😜. I totally want to try some brazing now. Thanks for sharing, John.
Great video. Possible solution for me. There are also some helpful comments below (spoiler alert...you also have to read some pretty dumb stuff to find the good stuff) with additional info. Thanks John Malecki...love your work.
Hey John I really really like all the humors and a double impersonator you are awesome I really enjoyed watching your videos your amazing thank you. You made laught, your really really awesome and great videos
As they say: practice makes perfect. It also doesn't hurt to read the Bernzomatic instructions that come with their oxy-map torch setup.
Directions?
Not a bad idea, if you can read..... haha
Haha! Those papers that come with tools are for women!
Nicely done on many levels. Thanks for the video
Thank you!
Gonna try this! Thinking wet cloth on the brazed areas nearby might help..
Loved the video. Entertaining as heck! Keep up the good work.
As a brazer, I gotta say, you're a helluva welder.
I normally slide a piece of steel inside the tube to adsorb the heat,
It's a bit fiddly but it stops heat transfer
John you're awesome thanks for sharing and including those mishaps, my wife says that you're twin from the day before is better looking, sorry. Great job.
Hahaha for sure better looking !
Aluminum oxidizes very quickly, forming a transparent ceramic. To use the alloy weld, you gotta rub the stick where you want to stay. Rubbing makes it so it will fuse well below the aluminum melt temp. RUB IT IN! Thanks.
Great tip Kelly!
@@John_Malecki I usually use a piece of (steel) filler rod to scrape the layer of aluminum under the braze puddle. The stuff was unusable until I learned to do that.
I've worked with this product. This stuff is good for only a very limited set of applications. As you you saw, when bonding multiple sided joints you end up re-melting one seem while trying to bond the other adjacent seems. His standing weight test was bogus, he stood on a board supported by the aluminum columns, not with the board soley supported by the joins. He would have snapped straight thru if he did. If you need to support any kind of weight at the actual joins use a tig or mig welder set up for aluminum.
Yea it was not the easiest thing ive put together. MIG or TIG is a better application, A lot of people dont want to get into the cost of those machines tho
You can get wide brass feet for vice grip style c claps that will help you not have clamping marks
I wonder how well the brazed material handles anodizing and color?....
FYI, find someone's old clapped out chop saw for $25 and throw the Diablo metal cutting blade on it for $36. Just as good as that metal cutting chop saw you see in a lot of recent videos.
Did you ever consider a backing plate for your clamp to avoid distorting the tube ?
AMAZING video. I'm on the fence as to whether or not I should attempt to do this for a studio desk. I may have to. Depending on the cost of the aluminum. 🤔
I would probably say dont, haha weld it with aluminum This was not my favorite way to join metal haha
Thanks for the tips man! Love your videos, they are very informative. I like how you explain what you are doing and why. Killer shop too. Peace man
I came here to learn to weld and you made me laugh. So I’m subscribing
Man!! So many hate comments, give the guy a break, he has good content.
Thanks Carlos, but welcome to the internet. haha
Great video. I always wondered if it was possible to braze aluminum. Now I know.
K man.. not good my parents where out so I tried to do it all .. and long story short.. I'm standing outside and I'm so much shit right now.. the house is bruning like a mofo... Thanks man .. thanks a lot.. last time I listen to you
Hey, quick question. How long of a span can I do before one end starts the cooling process? I am not joining at a corner, but joining 2 square tubes together, roughly 2 feet. Thanks
Sleek design that anyone can make. Great job!
Ya super simple and basic
Great video big dog. Raaah!
Does anyone know what type of metal his filler rod is? I don't know anything about metal work but this looks like a really easy way to start.
Very nice! Wanting to try this myself 👊
Yea give it a shot, be careful tho
Thanks for da lesson I’m gonna build me an airplane!
I hates the rivets.
LOL!
@Tree Power doubt it would make it into the air