Oh many things. Brazing doesnt need the chamfer. That is for welding. Brazing just wicks into the joint. Flux will help / should be used. For cleaning the carbon brush may contaminate the aluminum. You should use SS, and then clean with iso-p or acetone before fluxing and then brazing. Braze will run towards the heat. But brazing is a great way to build a frame without a welder!
Chamfer your edges with a steeper angle that way you have a much larger surface area for the Weld or Braise rod to adhere to. Which in turn will create a much much stronger joint !
Great tip. With standard welding im looking for penetration at the joint when i chamfer, But thats a great point since its more of an adherence on the surface
I'm looking to build a structural wall out of Aluminum and I plan on brazing it. The structural wall will be going into the back of my transit, and a piece of 1/2 wood will be screwed to that aluminum. The wall will be used to hold my Air, vaccum, and pressure washer hose reel. about 300-400lbs. Would brazing have the structural integrity to hold that kind of weight?
What I learned from a similar alu braze product years ago, is to scratch the surfaces of the areas your braze bead lays on with a sharp pointy metal pen INSIDE the liquid hot bead before letting it cool. Aluminium reoxidizes almost instantly after you remove it with your brush or sandpaper. By scratching open this tiny new alu-oxide layer inside the hot bead, there is no oxigen to mess up the bond again. Good luck!
I appreciate the testing and learning on camera. I find it very helpful to understand WHY I should do a specific step that's laid out. Also, I was confused as to why the table didn't have an enclosed square base, but then I saw how you had it positioned next to the chair. As a professional cleaner, I appreciate that open end for easier floor cleaning! I found your video fun and informative, I dig your style.
Dear John, thanks for this teaching and entertaining tutorial! The table i will definitely rebuild as my first try in brazing! Greetings from Germany and have a great week 👍🌞🍀
RUclipsr "This Old Tony" is the master of cutting metal via karate chop. I've watched an re-watched his technique, but I'm yet to get the super-clean cuts in steel that he gets...
When i where in the Navi in the beginning of the 90:s i got the order to "solder" 5mm aluminium. I really had my doubts about but it turned out great, sp i had to do 20 antenna masts.... I havent touched a welder or anything like it since those days and i thought it where a common practise today.
They make paint pens that change color when certain temperatures are reached for different processes. So you pick the closes temperature pen to melt the brazing rod .
I had no idea this was possible, John. As someone who hasn't ventured down the welding road yet, this is a super intriguing process. And I really like the design too!
We used to use a wet cloth on the metal at some position between the heated area and the area you want to keep cool, helps absorb the heat before it destroys other joints or paint.
One thing that is questionable here is the use of a carbon steel wire brush to clean the metal. You should use a stainless brush. Carbon brushes can contaminate your parent material and make it harder to braze or weld. Stainless won't.
This is from Lincoln Electric's web site. Base-metal preparation: To weld aluminum, operators must take care to clean the base material and remove any aluminum oxide and hydrocarbon contamination from oils or cutting solvents. Aluminum oxide on the surface of the material melts at 3,700 F while the base-material aluminum underneath will melt at 1,200 F. Therefore, leaving any oxide on the surface of the base material will inhibit penetration of the filler metal into the workpiece. To remove aluminum oxides, use a stainless-steel bristle wire brush or solvents and etching solutions. When using a stainless-steel brush, brush only in one direction. Take care to not brush too roughly: rough brushing can further imbed the oxides in the work piece. Also, use the brush only on aluminum work-don't clean aluminum with a brush that's been used on stainless or carbon steel. When using chemical etching solutions, make sure to remove them from the work before welding. To minimize the risk of hydrocarbons from oils or cutting solvents entering the weld, remove them with a degreaser. Check that the degreaser does not contain any hydrocarbons.
Excellent tips. Also, consider brazing with eutectic and/or silver solder (hard solder) rods. They can get up to 70ksi. For making drill press, bandsaw, or other light duty stands out of old bed frames. I use a cheap $20 laser temp gun (kitchen prep) to check metal temp in addition to kitchen use and dog exercising... Don't overheat your metal, run your rod along the joint every so often to find out when its up to temp.
K man.. not good my parents where out so I tried to do it all .. and long story short.. I'm standing outside and I'm so much shit right now.. the house is bruning like a mofo... Thanks man .. thanks a lot.. last time I listen to you
Should never hold material while cutting, should always be clamped... nearly took my fingers off doing the same and not from the blade but from razor sharp edge on a piece that kicked back.
next time heat the joint from the bottom, and you can get all sides at once. move the torch around to even out the heat. no need to clamp tightly, in fact you could just make a jig to hold the pieces at 90 degrees
He Guys I am a farrier or blacksmith give it a name but anyway. sometimes wen I need to make a aluminum horseshoe and you need to know if it’s on the right temperature heat up the aluminum and strike it across with the back side of your hickory handle from your forging hammer and wen it leaves a black mark it’s ok to bend/forge wen the mark dissolves in a few seconds it’s to hot and your piece is messed up and can throw it away because it’s going to break. And if the wooden handle doesn’t leave a mark at all it’s to cold to bend or forge. And it also works with a bar of soap 🧼 I believe put it on an heat up and it’s discoloring also wen the right temp is reached but I always have a hammer in my working space so that’s works for me i keep my soap in the bathroom.
Adding an acetone wipe down to your prep would increase the efficiency and adherence of those brazes. There are a lot of oils, oxides and other impurities hanging out on the surface of aluminum.
I doubt any oils will survive the brazing temperature and the main oxide is aluminum oxide which naturally forms in air, that’s what the wire brush is for. Other oxides will be unaffected by a solvent wipe. Acetone might clean off some old paint but so will the wire brush. Acetone sounds like a waste of time but when you do use it, put it far away when you start brazing.
@@klave8511 Why would anyone really care what some rando on YT 'thinks' when most brazing rod manf's recommend degreasing? Obviously they don't know what they're talking about...
i wonder if cutting a 45 angle, bending then brazing would create a stronger joint. Can any of the experts below comment please? Just getting into this as well so this was fun to watch :)
First that's not how to file never drag the file backwards, second that is not welding what you are doing is braising or some would say soldering. Tip get a belt sander table angel it 45 deg & sand the straight edges where you will be braising, be careful not to sand past the thickness of the materiel. You want a nice grove for the filler to flow in so you end up with a very strong mechanical join, at the moment this may seem to be strong but you really only have 1mm of aluminum holding it together so one drop or shock & it will crack very easily.
DeSpace Man I usually dont drag my file either but it really doesnt matter. Dragging a little bit helps you maintain your relative position or angle because your never leave contact from the work surface.
Hey, quick question. How long of a span can I do before one end starts the cooling process? I am not joining at a corner, but joining 2 square tubes together, roughly 2 feet. Thanks
I'm no expert, however you should be brazing a bit like you do soldering pipe. Heat the entire joint and surrounding area. Especially as it is aluminum which sucks heat. You should be able to get the top joint, both sides and the bottom in one run, needing to pull heat away as you get to the bottom. Quite different than welding, however works great for old bed frames and such that you don't want embrittled with work hardening.
Is it possible to build a in frame mini bike aluminum gas tank by brazing weld if yes how many inches thick should the aluminum be and should I use bronze or aluminum brazing rods for the job ?plz n ty…
Just a heads up, the map gas does not burn “a lot” hotter that the propane, only 130 degrees according to bernzomatics website. Cost analysis between the two, with map being 10 dollars a bottle, and propane about 3-4 dollars a bottle, propane is the way to go
Another great video and one I have tucked away for reference. And you said Penetrating and sloppy hole. BAHAHAHA!! Ya I know its sophomoric but it made me laugh!
That will 100% fall apart!!! I love how these guys think “oh I can stand on something once and it’s fine” the last Maker that did an aluminum brazing video broke the leg off his table with his vacuum cleaner!! This table is an accident waiting to happen especially after he sanded most of it off cause I seriously doubt he had much penetration
Whats wrong with experimenting ? I obviously know this isnt as good as TIG welding the Aluminum together. An accident on a little end table is not the end of the world.
Well it is a “How to” video and unfortunately you guys have a fair amount of people who rely on you for information on how to do things!!! You say how easy aluminum is to work with but obviously you haven’t worked with it much cause it clogs almost everything you cut it with unless you’re just killing time and making a sponsored video
Yeah, that plank you stepped on was directly on the corner standing rods, so all your construct did was just stabilize the vertical rods and so just carry a partial load. We still know nothing about the actual strength of these welds.
With my first try, the brazing rod wasn't melting as I expected, so I wound up actually heating the alu up to its melting point, lol. That didn't work out well. Follow-ups turned out better. :D
Wow this is fricken awesome. I spent all last night blowing through some half inch by half inch aluminum square tube and I’m definitely going to give this a try
Aluminum forms an oxide layer very quickly that will reduce the strength of the joint. An aluminum brazing flux could be added after sanding off the oxide layer
Soldering takes place at a lower temperature than brazing and requires certain alloys with low melting points, often using tin or lead. Brazing rod is usually just brass, bronze, or aluminum alloy.
I previously had a job making flex-wing microlights where we used aluminium tube for the structure of the wing; we used a chop saw (eventually got a aluminium specific blade for it after some strong words from me :-) ) and one of the best pieces of advice is keep a can of WD-40 next to it to spray the blade before cutting as the ally is so soft and will 'gum' up the teeth of the blade, reducing it's effectiveness very quickly!!
Use a brazing attachment, not a soldering torch attachment. Super fine flame, make a pool and push the pool, filler rod when it burns too thin (easy with aluminium). That is "Brazing", which is what you want to do with a gas torch and any metal.
I'm looking to turn my Deep V hull aluminum boat into a bass boat with platforms. I've been thinking of using 2x3's or 2x4's for the framing and then putting a deck on of plywood and carpet. After seeing your demonstration I may spend the extra money on aluminum and do it this way instead. I used to have the old welding rods from at least 25 years ago. No real instructions and I used propane. From what I'm reading the propane won't get it hot enough. When I tried patching a canoe the stuff didn't adhere. It just crumbled and that was that. Now I know what I did wrong. Still have the canoe so repair time is coming
FYI whether particularly regular or even ali brazing, I find these torches too aggressive and too general area, I would strongly suggest getting a smaller more pin point accurate head more like an oxy acetylene torch head, you can still use it to heat the general area, but when you want more accurate localized heating for brazing its much more easier as its more localised where you want rather than everywhere...
great video. i wanna do this now! my propane torch goes out when upside down. is there a method or gas that avoids this? also how did you sand up the sloppy joints?
Aluminum oxidizes very quickly, forming a transparent ceramic. To use the alloy weld, you gotta rub the stick where you want to stay. Rubbing makes it so it will fuse well below the aluminum melt temp. RUB IT IN! Thanks.
@@John_Malecki I usually use a piece of (steel) filler rod to scrape the layer of aluminum under the braze puddle. The stuff was unusable until I learned to do that.
When you're braising, you don't need clamping pressure, you only need to hold the parts together for the heat to dissipate. A good way of knowing when you have clamped down enough, is if you can hold a piece of paper in place, you've got enough holding force.
You got more power tools in there than I’ve ever owned in my life. Your using a chop saw were I’m using a hack saw to build a truck camper, truly hand built on my end. Using a flux would give you a faster and better results.
So the brazing rod is not made of brass? Its aluminium? I didn't know aluminum rods existed... Is there some kind of flux on the rods like brass rods have? Can this weld be built up in layers to make things stronger? The reason I ask is I have an aluminium bicycle frame with a crack in it I might try to repair this way. Its cracked at the top of the seat tube where the tube going to the steering is. I asked a couple welders how much it would cost to TIG weld, they both said hundreds of dollars. I paid 25 for the bike LOL! I don't think I will be spending a few hundred on a one inch weld.
John you're awesome thanks for sharing and including those mishaps, my wife says that you're twin from the day before is better looking, sorry. Great job.
Hey John! You forgot your info with the video suggestions at the end of the video! I was gonna click the one you recommended but I just high fived you instead!
Absolutely loved the video I’m building a fold out bed in the back of my Jeep for camping and this just inspired me to take a totally different route. Probably gonna make a lot of mistakes at first but we’ll see. Also thanks for supporting the USMC.
I am thinking about constructing a specialized small infrared thermometer with a warning signals when aluminum is ready for brazing and other signals when it is overheated. I guess it would make brazing aluminum ten times easier
Do you think a guy could frame up the walls and roof of a camper trailer with this stuff? I mean, I guess I just saw you stand on a piece with very little corner bracing and four tiny legs...???
Experience with metal furniture,industrial or otherwise tells you that it's not the quality of the joint that leads to failure it's the quality of the materiels being joined.the break is almost always next to the weld bead.
How strong is this ? I am looking to make a an enclosure in the back of the pick up for the dogs so they have some air instead of being stuck in dog crates.
DID ANYONE NOTICE.....at 0:34 Either this guy is magic or he is cheating somehow. It appears he was holding the camera...then when he got to the table, he kept walking on the other side of the table & the camera separated from him and kept bouncing a following him as if he was walking with it....but CLEARLY HE WASNT HOLDING IT..........
I tried this using a product called alumiweld brazing rod. It’s tricky and what happens when you do things in steps and you reheat your previous weld and it comes apart while your trying to work elsewhere. I bought a tig welder and it’s easier.
I will be making a chimney cap this winter so deciding between using aluminum or steel, I know that the steel welds will be strong but like the idea of aluminum for weight and corrosion outside in New England weather. After watching this thinking the aluminum rods may be the way to go. Shouldn't have any pressure/forces applied when installed but want to make sure it holds up to wind.
MAP gas not MAPP gas. it is only about 200 deg, f, hotter than propane. if you need more heat you need air added to the mix or a hotter gas such as acetylene. MApp gas is no longer being produced.
Oh many things.
Brazing doesnt need the chamfer. That is for welding. Brazing just wicks into the joint. Flux will help / should be used.
For cleaning the carbon brush may contaminate the aluminum. You should use SS, and then clean with iso-p or acetone before fluxing and then brazing.
Braze will run towards the heat.
But brazing is a great way to build a frame without a welder!
Chamfer your edges with a steeper angle that way you have a much larger surface area for the Weld or Braise rod to adhere to. Which in turn will create a much much stronger joint !
Great tip. With standard welding im looking for penetration at the joint when i chamfer, But thats a great point since its more of an adherence on the surface
I'm looking to build a structural wall out of Aluminum and I plan on brazing it. The structural wall will be going into the back of my transit, and a piece of 1/2 wood will be screwed to that aluminum. The wall will be used to hold my Air, vaccum, and pressure washer hose reel. about 300-400lbs. Would brazing have the structural integrity to hold that kind of weight?
What I learned from a similar alu braze product years ago, is to scratch the surfaces of the areas your braze bead lays on with a sharp pointy metal pen INSIDE the liquid hot bead before letting it cool.
Aluminium reoxidizes almost instantly after you remove it with your brush or sandpaper. By scratching open this tiny new alu-oxide layer inside the hot bead, there is no oxigen to mess up the bond again.
Good luck!
Wow. Someone that actually knows.
I appreciate the testing and learning on camera. I find it very helpful to understand WHY I should do a specific step that's laid out. Also, I was confused as to why the table didn't have an enclosed square base, but then I saw how you had it positioned next to the chair. As a professional cleaner, I appreciate that open end for easier floor cleaning!
I found your video fun and informative, I dig your style.
Dear John, thanks for this teaching and entertaining tutorial! The table i will definitely rebuild as my first try in brazing! Greetings from Germany and have a great week 👍🌞🍀
I don't have a chop saw, could you please do a video demonstrating the karate chop method, thanks
RUclipsr "This Old Tony" is the master of cutting metal via karate chop. I've watched an re-watched his technique, but I'm yet to get the super-clean cuts in steel that he gets...
@@tomdchi12 its all in the elbow, give it a little extra "Flick" right before impact, works for me every time
@@tomdchi12 its aluminium not steel
A hack saw will get you going
When i where in the Navi in the beginning of the 90:s i got the order to "solder" 5mm aluminium.
I really had my doubts about but it turned out great, sp i had to do 20 antenna masts....
I havent touched a welder or anything like it since those days and i thought it where a common practise today.
HI, I have found if i use a ceramic tile between the clamp and aluminium, the heating time is reduced and the clamps dont mark the aluminium
As they say: practice makes perfect. It also doesn't hurt to read the Bernzomatic instructions that come with their oxy-map torch setup.
Directions?
Not a bad idea, if you can read..... haha
Haha! Those papers that come with tools are for women!
Thanks for captioning your videos. I've used this stuff in the past, it's pretty finicky (especially with propane) but it does work as you showed.
Thank you! Its a solid option if you dont have a welder
That was great. I learned a lot. I love building things and your channel helps.
They make paint pens that change color when certain temperatures are reached for different processes. So you pick the closes temperature pen to melt the brazing rod .
Why not just point that non contact temperature reader at it , the one you got for COVID.
@@chrisbraid2907 because they max out at only 150 degrees Fahrenheit
I had no idea this was possible, John. As someone who hasn't ventured down the welding road yet, this is a super intriguing process. And I really like the design too!
Its a solid experiment and learning curve for sure
Love the black rifle banner!
Thanks Matt, I love BRCC
Nicely done on many levels. Thanks for the video
Thank you!
"I think I should let it cool down" *Touches hot metal anyways*
hahaha 100% of the time every time
I think we're all like that 🤣
@@John_Malecki gotta make sure it's cool enough to touch it by touching it to check
We used to use a wet cloth on the metal at some position between the heated area and the area you want to keep cool, helps absorb the heat before it destroys other joints or paint.
Thank you for dulling the noise of the metal cutting
Thank you
Thanks for da lesson I’m gonna build me an airplane!
I hates the rivets.
LOL!
@Tree Power doubt it would make it into the air
One thing that is questionable here is the use of a carbon steel wire brush to clean the metal. You should use a stainless brush. Carbon brushes can contaminate your parent material and make it harder to braze or weld. Stainless won't.
Thanks Scooter. Noted
Also use soldering paste to prevent oxidation of aluminum due to heat. Solder does not stick to aluminum-oxide
This is from Lincoln Electric's web site. Base-metal preparation: To weld aluminum, operators must take care to clean the base material and remove any aluminum oxide and hydrocarbon contamination from oils or cutting solvents. Aluminum oxide on the surface of the material melts at 3,700 F while the base-material aluminum underneath will melt at 1,200 F. Therefore, leaving any oxide on the surface of the base material will inhibit penetration of the filler metal into the workpiece. To remove aluminum oxides, use a stainless-steel bristle wire brush or solvents and etching solutions. When using a stainless-steel brush, brush only in one direction. Take care to not brush too roughly: rough brushing can further imbed the oxides in the work piece. Also, use the brush only on aluminum work-don't clean aluminum with a brush that's been used on stainless or carbon steel. When using chemical etching solutions, make sure to remove them from the work before welding. To minimize the risk of hydrocarbons from oils or cutting solvents entering the weld, remove them with a degreaser. Check that the degreaser does not contain any hydrocarbons.
Excellent tips. Also, consider brazing with eutectic and/or silver solder (hard solder) rods. They can get up to 70ksi. For making drill press, bandsaw, or other light duty stands out of old bed frames. I use a cheap $20 laser temp gun (kitchen prep) to check metal temp in addition to kitchen use and dog exercising...
Don't overheat your metal, run your rod along the joint every so often to find out when its up to temp.
Great video big dog. Raaah!
No you don't even need a $50 grinder, all you need is a basic $500 cut off saw.
Was kinda expecting a hacksaw guy.
I believe, and correct if im wrong, I 100% Say hacksaw in the video.....
I see someone hasn't heard of Harbor freight
Who me?
@@John_Malecki No the people complaining about the price of tools.
You aren’t a real man unless you have purchased a chop saw
K man.. not good my parents where out so I tried to do it all .. and long story short.. I'm standing outside and I'm so much shit right now.. the house is bruning like a mofo... Thanks man .. thanks a lot.. last time I listen to you
Should never hold material while cutting, should always be clamped... nearly took my fingers off doing the same and not from the blade but from razor sharp edge on a piece that kicked back.
Kurt Boczarski can attest to this. My buddy one thumb joe can too.
If you never drive a car,you would never die of a car accident. Come on man dont push your safety Sally shiz on everyone else
@@joesmoth2610 don't complain when you too got greedy
Very nice
Success!
next time heat the joint from the bottom, and you can get all sides at once. move the torch around to even out the heat. no need to clamp tightly, in fact you could just make a jig to hold the pieces at 90 degrees
Awesome advice!
He Guys I am a farrier or blacksmith give it a name but anyway.
sometimes wen I need to make a aluminum horseshoe and you need to know if it’s on the right temperature heat up the aluminum and strike it across with the back side of your hickory handle from your forging hammer and wen it leaves a black mark it’s ok to bend/forge wen the mark dissolves in a few seconds it’s to hot and your piece is messed up and can throw it away because it’s going to break.
And if the wooden handle doesn’t leave a mark at all it’s to cold to bend or forge. And it also works with a bar of soap 🧼 I believe put it on an heat up and it’s discoloring also wen the right temp is reached but I always have a hammer in my working space so that’s works for me i keep my soap in the bathroom.
Great tip!!
Why not just have a piece of solder that'll melt at the temp you are shooting for, or a cheap laser temp gun for $20.
Adding an acetone wipe down to your prep would increase the efficiency and adherence of those brazes. There are a lot of oils, oxides and other impurities hanging out on the surface of aluminum.
I doubt any oils will survive the brazing temperature and the main oxide is aluminum oxide which naturally forms in air, that’s what the wire brush is for. Other oxides will be unaffected by a solvent wipe. Acetone might clean off some old paint but so will the wire brush. Acetone sounds like a waste of time but when you do use it, put it far away when you start brazing.
@@klave8511 Why would anyone really care what some rando on YT 'thinks' when most brazing rod manf's recommend degreasing? Obviously they don't know what they're talking about...
i wonder if cutting a 45 angle, bending then brazing would create a stronger joint. Can any of the experts below comment please? Just getting into this as well so this was fun to watch :)
finally found the tech.. can i use kitchen flametorch
nice track outside XD
I like your channel. Fun stuff
Thank you!
First that's not how to file never drag the file backwards, second that is not welding what you are doing is braising or some would say soldering. Tip get a belt sander table angel it 45 deg & sand the straight edges where you will be braising, be careful not to sand past the thickness of the materiel. You want a nice grove for the filler to flow in so you end up with a very strong mechanical join, at the moment this may seem to be strong but you really only have 1mm of aluminum holding it together so one drop or shock & it will crack very easily.
DeSpace Man I usually dont drag my file either but it really doesnt matter. Dragging a little bit helps you maintain your relative position or angle because your never leave contact from the work surface.
Hey, quick question. How long of a span can I do before one end starts the cooling process? I am not joining at a corner, but joining 2 square tubes together, roughly 2 feet. Thanks
As a heavy builder I hit subscribe when you stood on your work.
Thanks David !
Lol
I'm no expert, however you should be brazing a bit like you do soldering pipe. Heat the entire joint and surrounding area. Especially as it is aluminum which sucks heat. You should be able to get the top joint, both sides and the bottom in one run, needing to pull heat away as you get to the bottom. Quite different than welding, however works great for old bed frames and such that you don't want embrittled with work hardening.
Is it possible to build a in frame mini bike aluminum gas tank by brazing weld if yes how many inches thick should the aluminum be and should I use bronze or aluminum brazing rods for the job ?plz n ty…
Just a heads up, the map gas does not burn “a lot” hotter that the propane, only 130 degrees according to bernzomatics website. Cost analysis between the two, with map being 10 dollars a bottle, and propane about 3-4 dollars a bottle, propane is the way to go
Another great video and one I have tucked away for reference. And you said Penetrating and sloppy hole. BAHAHAHA!! Ya I know its sophomoric but it made me laugh!
Always good to laugh!
Finally, i was looking for the comment in relation to the sloppy hole to allow movement. Yes yes so it does.
A stainless steel wire brush would probably be a little better for prep work on AL.
👍Great Channel & Content.
Long time subscriber.
No flux? Would flux give you a better bond?
That will 100% fall apart!!! I love how these guys think “oh I can stand on something once and it’s fine” the last Maker that did an aluminum brazing video broke the leg off his table with his vacuum cleaner!! This table is an accident waiting to happen especially after he sanded most of it off cause I seriously doubt he had much penetration
Whats wrong with experimenting ? I obviously know this isnt as good as TIG welding the Aluminum together. An accident on a little end table is not the end of the world.
Well it is a “How to” video and unfortunately you guys have a fair amount of people who rely on you for information on how to do things!!! You say how easy aluminum is to work with but obviously you haven’t worked with it much cause it clogs almost everything you cut it with unless you’re just killing time and making a sponsored video
Yeah, that plank you stepped on was directly on the corner standing rods, so all your construct did was just stabilize the vertical rods and so just carry a partial load. We still know nothing about the actual strength of these welds.
but the design of the furniture didn't require those to be strong so... guess it didn't really end up mattering
This jointing method wont hold shit
@@mercer982 Its an end table. Id bet it'd hold my lamp and coffee just fine
With my first try, the brazing rod wasn't melting as I expected, so I wound up actually heating the alu up to its melting point, lol. That didn't work out well. Follow-ups turned out better. :D
GOOD LUCK WITH THE KARATE CHOP😂
Does anyone know what type of metal his filler rod is? I don't know anything about metal work but this looks like a really easy way to start.
What do I do about fumes? Have had some respiratory problems, want to be safe.
Wow this is fricken awesome. I spent all last night blowing through some half inch by half inch aluminum square tube and I’m definitely going to give this a try
Aluminum forms an oxide layer very quickly that will reduce the strength of the joint. An aluminum brazing flux could be added after sanding off the oxide layer
Link to the aluminum brazing rods please
Do you not need flux to braze aluminium? A very useful and informative video, thank you.
Its in the rod
Dude what you did is called soldering.
Soldering takes place at a lower temperature than brazing and requires certain alloys with low melting points, often using tin or lead. Brazing rod is usually just brass, bronze, or aluminum alloy.
Thanks Tom. I dunno how many times I have to send the definition of Brazing, but we can let all of the trolls do their thing
Soldering -> Brazing -> Welding
All different temperatures bud
@@wudchk not true, solder and braze join stuff by surface bond,welding melts stuff together.
I braize copper pipe and it’s a much higher melting point than this.. you can’t just run a braize rod over it but need to keep the flame on it.
Instead of clamping the frame pieces together, clamp 'em to a piece of plywood with the corner(s) over the edges. Clips deformation in the bud.
Great tip.
Thanks my friend !
Is that aluminum 1/16 or 1/8 thick ? Plenty strong enough for my project but i know nothing about metal building
cool
I previously had a job making flex-wing microlights where we used aluminium tube for the structure of the wing; we used a chop saw (eventually got a aluminium specific blade for it after some strong words from me :-) ) and one of the best pieces of advice is keep a can of WD-40 next to it to spray the blade before cutting as the ally is so soft and will 'gum' up the teeth of the blade, reducing it's effectiveness very quickly!!
Use a brazing attachment, not a soldering torch attachment. Super fine flame, make a pool and push the pool, filler rod when it burns too thin (easy with aluminium). That is "Brazing", which is what you want to do with a gas torch and any metal.
cool idea! could I make a sliding gate around 20ft long with this method? do you think it would be strong enough? it sounds like a good option
I'm looking to turn my Deep V hull aluminum boat into a bass boat with platforms. I've been thinking of using 2x3's or 2x4's for the framing and then putting a deck on of plywood and carpet.
After seeing your demonstration I may spend the extra money on aluminum and do it this way instead.
I used to have the old welding rods from at least 25 years ago. No real instructions and I used propane. From what I'm reading the propane won't get it hot enough. When I tried patching a canoe the stuff didn't adhere. It just crumbled and that was that. Now I know what I did wrong. Still have the canoe so repair time is coming
FYI whether particularly regular or even ali brazing, I find these torches too aggressive and too general area, I would strongly suggest getting a smaller more pin point accurate head more like an oxy acetylene torch head, you can still use it to heat the general area, but when you want more accurate localized heating for brazing its much more easier as its more localised where you want rather than everywhere...
great video. i wanna do this now! my propane torch goes out when upside down. is there a method or gas that avoids this? also how did you sand up the sloppy joints?
Aluminum oxidizes very quickly, forming a transparent ceramic. To use the alloy weld, you gotta rub the stick where you want to stay. Rubbing makes it so it will fuse well below the aluminum melt temp. RUB IT IN! Thanks.
Great tip Kelly!
@@John_Malecki I usually use a piece of (steel) filler rod to scrape the layer of aluminum under the braze puddle. The stuff was unusable until I learned to do that.
Trust me, just buy a cheap inverter TIG machine and learn to weld that shit.
Thanks Adam. I have a squarewave TIG 200. this video isnt for that, its for those who dont want to learn welding, and just showing a different option.
When you're braising, you don't need clamping pressure, you only need to hold the parts together for the heat to dissipate. A good way of knowing when you have clamped down enough, is if you can hold a piece of paper in place, you've got enough holding force.
You got more power tools in there than I’ve ever owned in my life. Your using a chop saw were I’m using a hack saw to build a truck camper, truly hand built on my end.
Using a flux would give you a faster and better results.
TIG welding is the only way to go . brazing just won't cut it well not with alumininum
TIG is by far the preferred way.
some kind of industrial glue would probably be stronger and easier to use
You should also use a flux of some sort! Example of someone doing work when they don't know what they doing! I can see you not confident in your work!
Well done sir. Well produced and especially liked how you showed your mistakes. Thanks
Thanks Brad!
So the brazing rod is not made of brass? Its aluminium? I didn't know aluminum rods existed...
Is there some kind of flux on the rods like brass rods have? Can this weld be built up in layers to make things stronger? The reason I ask is I have an aluminium bicycle frame with a crack in it I might try to repair this way. Its cracked at the top of the seat tube where the tube going to the steering is. I asked a couple welders how much it would cost to TIG weld, they both said hundreds of dollars. I paid 25 for the bike LOL! I don't think I will be spending a few hundred on a one inch weld.
John you're awesome thanks for sharing and including those mishaps, my wife says that you're twin from the day before is better looking, sorry. Great job.
Hahaha for sure better looking !
Should have taken the coating off the aluminum... with a stainless steel brush to not contaminate the aluminum
Also, flux is needed for a good joint.
I do use a stainless brush.
The brazing rod is flux
He literally did that. How the hell are some people so ridiculous?
A shop like that and thats the kind of work you do? Horrible, just horrible.
You obviously missed the po int of this video Mobbin.....
@@John_Malecki I think someone is just passive-aggressive jealous...
Good work from you are it's 2020 yo
First video I watched and I already like this channel😎😎😎😎
Mantap Boz
I need to weld a taillight bracket back onto my bass boat. The aluminum is much thicker, will this process still work?
Is the noise dampened or is that beauty of a miter saw really that quiet?
Its both haha
Yes! It's really that quiet.... that way you can hear his screams in HD sound as he cuts a hand off....
Hey John! You forgot your info with the video suggestions at the end of the video! I was gonna click the one you recommended but I just high fived you instead!
Better just subscribe then !!
@@John_Malecki I'm offended that you think I wasn't already subscribed 😉 I love your videos and hope to meet you someday!
Absolutely loved the video I’m building a fold out bed in the back of my Jeep for camping and this just inspired me to take a totally different route. Probably gonna make a lot of mistakes at first but we’ll see. Also thanks for supporting the USMC.
I am thinking about constructing a specialized small infrared thermometer with a warning signals when aluminum is ready for brazing and other signals when it is overheated.
I guess it would make brazing aluminum ten times easier
That would be awesome!! I would buy one.
You made it look so easy for anyone with a moderate workshop to make a clean, tidy, cool piece of furniture.
Lmao. Yes he does make it look easy. He is just really really good at it. He is a great maker
In the aluminum screen enclosure world here in Florida we use a little silicon spray lube when we cut aluminum. Keeps the carbide blades sharp.
They had exact same tables at TJ MAxx for $30
Ill sell you this one for $29
So you are just soldering them together :p
Except that he's not using solder
@@jarodmorris611 Concept is identical. Just a different type of metal...
@@jtrthehax - yes but solder is a material. If no one says anything, people who don't know, can't learn.
It’s brazing. Solder is a bit different.
@@Mikey-ym6ok Brazing in Dutch is "Hardsolderen" which liturly means hard soldering. So brazing ins soldering.
Check out Make Something with Dave Pistachio, this stuff is junk and doesn't hold up well at all.
I see you used the makita bl immediately followed by the Fuel. I went with the makita but was torn, which do you prefer?
Do you think a guy could frame up the walls and roof of a camper trailer with this stuff? I mean, I guess I just saw you stand on a piece with very little corner bracing and four tiny legs...???
Nice job! The aluminum brazing rod I use says they recommend using a stainless steel brush. It might help the adhesion! Cheers
Bernzomatic is looking for someone else to sponsor now.
Good, i'll give them your info.
Spray a little WD40 on that chopsaw blade for cutting aluminium
Thats a great tip!
use cutting wax. i would not use wd40 unless in a bind.
@@groundzero. not neweer WD40, aluminium used alcohol if you drill,cut, etc cooling denatured spirit. have best. and cutting used wax. to blade.
Experience with metal furniture,industrial or otherwise tells you that it's not the quality of the joint that leads to failure it's the quality of the materiels being joined.the break is almost always next to the weld bead.
How strong is this ? I am looking to make a an enclosure in the back of the pick up for the dogs so they have some air instead of being stuck in dog crates.
Did you ever consider a backing plate for your clamp to avoid distorting the tube ?
DID ANYONE NOTICE.....at 0:34 Either this guy is magic or he is cheating somehow. It appears he was holding the camera...then when he got to the table, he kept walking on the other side of the table & the camera separated from him and kept bouncing a following him as if he was walking with it....but CLEARLY HE WASNT HOLDING IT..........
Great content .....but I only subscribed due to your humor .......
Do not use for anything that holds weight or you move around alot. I only use it for art.
Yea i think thats a great point, this was obviously an experiment
Not for weight?! My whole outside storage building is made this way!Complete with tools hangin from the ceiling & shelves fastened to the framing.
I tried this using a product called alumiweld brazing rod. It’s tricky and what happens when you do things in steps and you reheat your previous weld and it comes apart while your trying to work elsewhere. I bought a tig welder and it’s easier.
John this is awesome gonna make potentially making table bases allot better for me. Is this really though as easy as you make it look.?? 👍🏴
What kind of glove do you recommend for the hand chop method?
I will be making a chimney cap this winter so deciding between using aluminum or steel, I know that the steel welds will be strong but like the idea of aluminum for weight and corrosion outside in New England weather. After watching this thinking the aluminum rods may be the way to go. Shouldn't have any pressure/forces applied when installed but want to make sure it holds up to wind.
MAP gas not MAPP gas. it is only about 200 deg, f, hotter than propane. if you need more heat you need air added to the mix or a hotter gas such as acetylene. MApp gas is no longer being produced.