Great video! Thank you for sharing your knowledge and experience with electric motors. Any advice on how to troubleshoot when I disassemble my Toro Electric Corded Power Jet F700? My Toro Power Jet F700 died two-(2) months past the 2-year warranty! I hope I can fix it: I quit using it because sparks were arcing inside when I looked in the exhaust. I did some research and then proceeded to disassemble the leaf blower: I was a little apprehensive, but I pressed forward with the disassembly because I quit using the leaf blower and hoped that I could repair it [big dreams]. My Father was a Master Electrician, so I retrieved his old book titled Electric Motor Repair by Robert Rosenberg: I am trying to understand what type of motor is in my leaf blower: I was leaning towards a Alternating Current Motor Control because I must plug it into the house electrical receptacle for it to power on; however the Universal Motor is applicable to both AC and DC? It was a challenge to reassemble too because the plastic housing has to matchup. These past four-(4) days has been frustrating because I searched both RUclips and the internet and also read the Electric Motor Repair book and I still cannot get the leaf blower to power on when plugged into electrical receptacle. I used color matching zip-ties, so I can reconnect the correct wires [only 2 pairs!!] I thought once I cleaned-up the commutator I thought my leaf blower was going to operate.
Hmm...I think some of those motors require a controller board to send a signal from the switch to the motor for "safety." Most likely it would be AC. If you are seeing sparks then the brushes are toast. There maybe a safety switch somewhere too. Have you tried Toro's service site and download the parts diagram? I do see a motor but no number. www.toro.com/getpub/178570 From Toro's diagram it shows the wire pack but I cannot see how it connects to the motor. Have you tried finding a replacement from Grainger? For another project to replace my mom's 65+ yrs old Necchi sewing machine motor I went to Grainger's site and found size, etc. to match and wired it direct. Good luck and be careful working around electricity
@@denverhomestead1003 Than you for responding to my request - thank you very much for the parts catalog. Yesterday, I finally got the leaf blower operating again. Whoa Nellie! I disassembled the core motor subassembly; thus removing the rotor from the stator as I was inspecting the rotor I thought how could I clean the rotor better because I had already removed the carbon-char a few days ago and the copper contacts appeared very clean compared to my initial inspection of the rotor. I was brainstorming on which hand tool is best to remove the carbon-char from the copper contacts on the commutator. I finally remembered that I should try the metal file. I commenced using the metal file to scrape the copper contacts for a about 15 minutes until I concluded that it is my best effort. I was real careful on the tips where the core copper wires from the armature loop around the copper contact hooks (pitch or file marks?) on the commutator [in the Study Questions and Illustrations section of the book title Electric Motor Repair by Robert Rosenberg on page 136, figure 6-45] I followed-up by cleaning all copper surfaces with the isopropyl alcohol. Once I was ready to reassemble the parts I thought - "hey the switch is isolated, so I tested the continuity by plugging the plug into a extension cord that was plugged into the wall socket, I closed the circuit with my old Archer-Kit Analog Volt-Ohm-Milliammeter (aka VOM, Multimeter), after turning the switch to on to max blowing the switch tested good. I also realized that maybe I always incorrectly used wire-nuts, so this time I inserted the wires loosely together into the wire-nut and then twisted until I couldn't twist anymore. [I always twisted the pair of wires with my fingers then placed the wire-nut on the twisted-pair and twisted again.]. After setting the motor and fan-rocket subassembly into the casing I tested it again by plugging the plug into a extension cord and that was plugged into the wall socket, Geez Louise I was happy! I assembled the cover, which meant I finally got every part aligned correctly! My leaf blower is back in action! THANKS
Safety switch on mine crapped out. It worked just enough to let me know it was the problem. Removed the wires from the switch terminals, removed the switch, connected wires together with a couple tabs from the switch. Works now.
I have a Toro maybe just a year or two older than this one, model 51587, and it has been great, but last time I used it, it made a terribly loud noise and blew the inlet cover right off. It turns on, the power is running, but the sound is terrible- like the engine is stuck or something. We were using it as a vacuum with the bag when this happened. Any suggestions? I have taken it apart, but don't see anything stuck. Thanks!
Maybe the bearings are gone? Does the motor spin freely? If it spins you may try a little WD40 on the motor shaft. If there is nothing stuck check to make sure the blade is secure and no broken parts. Good luck
@@denverhomestead1003 thanks a lot. The motor spins fine and nothing is stuck. It looks like one of the blades of the impeller broke off. Could that cause this much grief? I think I'll order a replacement and see if it fixes things.
Because of this video, my leaf blower lives another day. I'm so thankful for your video.
Thank you for watching and the comment. Glad they made it serviceable.
Great video! Thank you for sharing your knowledge and experience with electric motors.
Any advice on how to troubleshoot when I disassemble my Toro Electric Corded Power Jet F700?
My Toro Power Jet F700 died two-(2) months past the 2-year warranty! I hope I can fix it: I quit using it because sparks were arcing inside when I looked in the exhaust. I did some research and then proceeded to disassemble the leaf blower: I was a little apprehensive, but I pressed forward with the disassembly because I quit using the leaf blower and hoped that I could repair it [big dreams]. My Father was a Master Electrician, so I retrieved his old book titled Electric Motor Repair by Robert Rosenberg: I am trying to understand what type of motor is in my leaf blower: I was leaning towards a Alternating Current Motor Control because I must plug it into the house electrical receptacle for it to power on; however the Universal Motor is applicable to both AC and DC? It was a challenge to reassemble too because the plastic housing has to matchup. These past four-(4) days has been frustrating because I searched both RUclips and the internet and also read the Electric Motor Repair book and I still cannot get the leaf blower to power on when plugged into electrical receptacle. I used color matching zip-ties, so I can reconnect the correct wires [only 2 pairs!!] I thought once I cleaned-up the commutator I thought my leaf blower was going to operate.
Hmm...I think some of those motors require a controller board to send a signal from the switch to the motor for "safety." Most likely it would be AC. If you are seeing sparks then the brushes are toast.
There maybe a safety switch somewhere too.
Have you tried Toro's service site and download the parts diagram? I do see a motor but no number.
www.toro.com/getpub/178570
From Toro's diagram it shows the wire pack but I cannot see how it connects to the motor.
Have you tried finding a replacement from Grainger?
For another project to replace my mom's 65+ yrs old Necchi sewing machine motor I went to Grainger's site and found size, etc. to match and wired it direct.
Good luck and be careful working around electricity
@@denverhomestead1003 Than you for responding to my request - thank you very much for the parts catalog. Yesterday, I finally got the leaf blower operating again. Whoa Nellie! I disassembled the core motor subassembly; thus removing the rotor from the stator as I was inspecting the rotor I thought how could I clean the rotor better because I had already removed the carbon-char a few days ago and the copper contacts appeared very clean compared to my initial inspection of the rotor. I was brainstorming on which hand tool is best to remove the carbon-char from the copper contacts on the commutator. I finally remembered that I should try the metal file. I commenced using the metal file to scrape the copper contacts for a about 15 minutes until I concluded that it is my best effort. I was real careful on the tips where the core copper wires from the armature loop around the copper contact hooks (pitch or file marks?) on the commutator [in the Study Questions and Illustrations section of the book title Electric Motor Repair by Robert Rosenberg on page 136, figure 6-45] I followed-up by cleaning all copper surfaces with the isopropyl alcohol. Once I was ready to reassemble the parts I thought - "hey the switch is isolated, so I tested the continuity by plugging the plug into a extension cord that was plugged into the wall socket, I closed the circuit with my old Archer-Kit Analog Volt-Ohm-Milliammeter (aka VOM, Multimeter), after turning the switch to on to max blowing the switch tested good. I also realized that maybe I always incorrectly used wire-nuts, so this time I inserted the wires loosely together into the wire-nut and then twisted until I couldn't twist anymore. [I always twisted the pair of wires with my fingers then placed the wire-nut on the twisted-pair and twisted again.]. After setting the motor and fan-rocket subassembly into the casing I tested it again by plugging the plug into a extension cord and that was plugged into the wall socket, Geez Louise I was happy! I assembled the cover, which meant I finally got every part aligned correctly! My leaf blower is back in action! THANKS
@@PappyNet01 Great news indeed! Glad to hear it worked out!
Safety switch on mine crapped out. It worked just enough to let me know it was the problem. Removed the wires from the switch terminals, removed the switch, connected wires together with a couple tabs from the switch. Works now.
Glad to hear. Mine is still going over 20+ yrs old
I have a Toro maybe just a year or two older than this one, model 51587, and it has been great, but last time I used it, it made a terribly loud noise and blew the inlet cover right off. It turns on, the power is running, but the sound is terrible- like the engine is stuck or something. We were using it as a vacuum with the bag when this happened. Any suggestions? I have taken it apart, but don't see anything stuck. Thanks!
Maybe the bearings are gone? Does the motor spin freely? If it spins you may try a little WD40 on the motor shaft. If there is nothing stuck check to make sure the blade is secure and no broken parts. Good luck
@@denverhomestead1003 thanks a lot. The motor spins fine and nothing is stuck. It looks like one of the blades of the impeller broke off. Could that cause this much grief? I think I'll order a replacement and see if it fixes things.
@@TheBeautybound Awesome good luck. Most likely a broken blade would cause it to howl. Good
@@denverhomestead1003 Thanks a lot!
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