Training Series With Steve Bechtel: How To Train Climbing Endurance
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- Опубликовано: 28 июн 2024
- In this limited series, we welcome Steve Bechtel from Climb Strong to discuss the main facets of climbing training. We'll cover Endurance, Strength, Power, Power Endurance, Recovery, and Program design.
In this episode, we will cover Endurance 101 for the climber who needs and wants to train endurance.
We cover what the endurance energy system is, its role in climbing, assessments, how boulderers and sport climbers can train endurance, and chat about common mistakes and myths.
We hope you enjoy this episode! If you have any questions, please comment below, and we'll answer them in a follow-up episode.
Check out Steve Bechtel's training programs and resources right here www.climbstrong.com/
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Hey Mercedes! Good discussion! I have a 9 month old so consistency and endurance are what I need right now 😂 I hope you can tie this in with proper nutrition and sleep for climbing
Absolutely! We’ll cover those topics in the recovery podcast. Keep it up Atsu! It’s great to hear from ya!
Love the insights. thanks so much for the smart, valuable content, You two are great
Thank you!
Great discussion! Video timestamps would be nice. It helps for future reference. Thanks!
yes we will work on this as we get more traffic. We appreciate the feedback.
Great discussion and ideas about endurance training in the 3rd gear. Very useful for training modification. Overall the video can be a bit faster-paced.
Thank you! We’ll try to move faster but you can always speed it up and listen to it X 1.5, something I do to all youtube videos.
31:50 Steve said that it takes a longer time to develop endurance than other areas of our climbing, and it is long-lasting. Is there any scientific evidence or papers to back up his claim? And he said that power endurance is "fleeting", why is that? I'm pretty sure that most of the research out there states that endurance/aerobic fitness drops off after a few weeks of not working on it... Not sure how that applies to climbing endurance but...?
The field of sport science has held this belief for quite some time, that endurance and muscle fatigue take a long time to develop their true upper limit potential. It requires more than just a research paper, and you might do better to read textbooks, or a wide collection of research papers. Some textbooks to refer to are: Essentials of Strength Training and Conditioning, Supertraining. Here's one paper on Muscle fatigue journals.physiology.org/doi/pdf/10.1152/physrev.00015.2007#:~:text=Allen%20DG%2C%20Lamb%20GD%2C%20Westerblad%20H.&text=%E2%80%94Repeated%2C%20intense%20use%20of%20muscles,ions%2C%20and%20many%20intracellular%20metabolites. The aerobic system is the most adaptable system when it comes to "room for improvement" since there are so many components to the system. This means there are many ways each of these components can be improved. CV/heart function, uptake, utilization. For this reason, it takes time and repetition. Power endurance, especially when you are training your upper limit, is expensive to maintain in the body. Which is why we refer to power endurance as the "icing on the cake" and the cake itself being endurance/capacity. Of course, we know that if you don't use it, you lose it, but if you have heavily developed endurance and strength systems, they won't take as long to "drop off" if you don't train them for 4-8 weeks. I'll pass this on to Steve. We can definitely talk more about this in a follow up episode at the end of the series.
@@MercedesPollmeier Thanks for the detailed response. That makes sense to me. How would this apply to boulderers?
I'll make sure this is part of the follow up Q&A. Here's my very quick response. As boulderers, we will want to spend much of our time in Gear 1, doing a few powerful moves in a row with plenty of rest between reps, and then supplementing with gear 3, matching the training duration to the goal you want to achieve. You can mesh some gear 2, just making sure not to overtax the pump (the accumulation of metabolic byproducts). Thanks for the engagement and questions.
Hideous DOMS today. Went to the bouldering gym yesterday and was sore from the get go. Hadn't recovered from a pullups session on Friday. Would love advice on how I can get to the bouldering gym fresh and strong a couple of times a week while still doing weights and cardio.
I hear ya. Our next podcast on strength training will be helpful to you. Without knowing too much about what your training looks like, the best way to gauge that you’re not overdoing it is to leave gas in the tank before your session is over. A word I like to use is ‘snappy’ by the end of most sessions. This might not feel intuitive, but our goal is consistency, and you’ll get more out of showing up fresh and consistent over a long period of time instead of having a lot of crappy feeling days, and possibly losing consistency. And you don’t need much to get strong, suffering isn’t the answer :)
@@MercedesPollmeier Looking forward to it! Wrong side of 60 so need to do a better job of spreading my exercise week out more evenly to optimise recovery times.
I don’t know what your time tables look like of course but speaking for myself, I’m on usually 5 days a week (3 climbing & 2 lifting). Spacing rest days is important, and I try to time my climbs/workouts so that I’m usually getting roughly 20-24 hours between activities, so that’s a good thing to be mindful of. Also find a good and impactful warmup routine. I show up to the gym some days feeling dead but if I really focus in my warmup I end up feeling much more composed and healthy. Good luck!