Again a great video from Mat3D (working late). Allthough time has passed the video is still very instructive. Small changes one should be aware of: The PID BED macro and the PID HOTEND do not execute an automatic SAVE anymore. In stead, the user is instructed to run the save macro.
Bin gerade drüber... dauert noch etwas (Video editing frisst extrem viel Zeit, viel mehr als die Sachen selbst zu drehen... vertont werden müssen die Sachen auch, da kommt schnell die 20-40fache Zeit der VideoLaufzeit zusammen und ich kann meistens nur Nachts arbeiten, deswegen ist meine Schlagzahl deutlich niedriger - ich mache das nur zum Spaß). Danke für Deinen Kommentar!
Thanks for this tutorial. Am I wrong or did you made some little math error : (9.17+9.05+8.91)/3=9.04 (correct) your calculus seems strange : you seem to calculate with 9.4 instead of 9.04 ((100+0,904)*4,5)/100 = 4.540, Am I wrong ? Thanks again.
Weird. The Z offset procedure is the same on my Klipperized SR, and it saves the Z offset as it should, but when starting a print it does not use it, it prints in the air. Also using the command to save Z offset to Endstops tells me the Z offset is 0. Do you have an idea ? Thanks a lot.
Bekommst du nach dem clean Klipper einen deutlich besseren first layer über das gesamte Druckbett hin? Habe noch die stock Firmware drauf. Hab schon ewig lange kalibriert und co. Aber ich kann einfach nicht mehrere Teile über das gesamte Druckbett drucken.
Hey Brouk! Danke für Deinen Kommentar! Also der First Layer ist bei mir deutlich besser geworden nach Github Klipper. Es gäbe da noch eine Option, aber die wäre schon ziemlich "nerdy"... da müsste ich richtig umbauen und auch selber n Macro schreiben usw. usf... ich glaube, dass ich das nicht machen werde/ dass ich das nicht mehr angehe. Das First Layer sieht bei mir inzwischen ziemlich gut aus (bisl under-extrusion, ansonsten gut).
What is the Klipper command for endstop calibration ? Your screen does not show what goes to the console, and I can't find the command for it. ENDSTOP_CALIBRATE does not work.
Danke für die Anleitungen zu diesem Thema. Ich hab da ein Problem vielleicht kannst du mir ja helfen, wäre super. Ich mache den Z offset wie du aber er übernimmt ihn nicht. Null ist für ihn immer die höhe welche er nach dem abtasten hatte (ca 18mm über dem bett) hast ne idee? Danke
friend and installed the vanilla following all the steps in your video, but the time of the pad I can't get it to update itself, every time I restart the printer it changes to 12 in the morning
I checked it on my V400 - it is working fine for me. This is hard to point the finger at from afar... there is a section in the installation where you set the timezone and related stuff - maybe sth wrong there? Not sure if it needs to sync every new start - if so, then connection to your Network and access to the internet may be required for the time to be set correct... but tbh, this is only guessing from my side. I did not yet check on how the time is synced on Klipper.
so, if i understand correctly, this isnt the flsun firmware, but a flashed original Klipper? then does the auto-leveling equiptment also work on this firmware? i got a new v400 and still thinking if i should flash it
Yes this is correct. This is the original Klipper version. Auto-Levelling still works, yes. I am sorry that I do not have the time to provide more content here on YT. If you want an overview about the flashing process, I did a video here as well, check this one out.
Very interesting video. I could imagine the remaining print issues to be from not perfectly horizontal moving effector plate, caused e.g. by slightly variying arm length. When the effector plate tilts a bit while traveling, the nozzle will to, causing print issues. Its pretty common for delta printers and therefore good resources to check it can be found easily. BR
Sorry for being late to the party... my macro is labeled "z offstet calibration" and is the last one in the list of macros. Did you miss it? It should be there. Thanks for your comment!
Something about your printer seems like it must be.. mechanically wrong?.. Have you considered the possibility that maybe the axis are not mounted equi-distant around the perimeter of the bed? so instead of perfect 120 degees they are slightly deviated? Just an idea for something to try and check for, you could see if a stick fits between all extrusions equally. Another similar thing to look for is if any of them might have some hardware that shifts the positions the ball-joints with a slight offset, make sure all the rails point true to the center and none have a twist at the base, etc.
Thanks for your comment! I am pretty sure mine is not less correct assembled than any one else on earth... the problem is systematic. Maybe you do not see it on yours (like the separated walls), because you are dispensing too much? In case you printed the snowflake - measure each and every beam of the snowflake - it should have 1.8mm in width. Not sure what is your requirement for the printer, for me, it is not yet as good / accurate as it should be. I installed original Github Klipper (see other video) and it improved after setup about 35-40%, but I am still -0.05mm to +0.25mm off (with maximum offset again in a 120° pattern). I assume this is a common V400 issue which is present more or less, but I assume it is present on any V400 (maybe even on any FLSUN Delta or maybe on any Delta printer).
@@craftingmat5425 I appreciate the feedback, though I was only giving possible ideas you might be able to check into further. If the gantry is true and the division between delta arms is the same, I'm not sure what else could cause those inaccuracies you are seeing. It seems unlikely the belts somehow have non-uniform regions that would be an irregular pitch and shift the distances, or maybe one tensions and stretched beyond specifications. But I don't think those match up with your output issues as much. It's an interesting problem so I'd be interested in seeing your resolution to it! One last idea is if the kinematic model being used is inaccurate to the printer's joints, in cases with 2 or 3 motors needed.. it might cause an exaggeration in how far it needs to shift, or possibly the opposite behavior entirely or moving too short! If a move is toward or away from a beam, all 3 are needed. If it's parallel to a beam, 2 motors do the majority of the offset from each other. There are actually some shapes you could plot out that would consist of locking 1 arm entirely, but they can't be straight lines obviously, I'm just not sure how you could use those to figure the root issue out. The generation of such objects would also be kinematically dependent for each printer, in theory.
@@Roobotics Again thanks for your input. Did you see the whole video? If yes... my conclusion is that it is somehow software related, because I could turn the issue by 30° compared between Cura 4 and Cura 5. This makes me think, that it is no mechanical issue. Still it could be a mixup between mechanical and software - not sure. Another idea I had was that it has to do with the non-linear distribution of positions due to geometry issues. The Axis makes larger Movements when it is an "inner" Postion but smaller Movements when it is an "outer" Position on the table. Maybe the positioning precision is not high enough in the outer area of the buildplate. For now, I do not know the root cause. I just have some ideas. As said I doubt it is somehow mechanical.
@@craftingmat5425 Thanks for the clarification I must have misunderstood what you meant by rotating in the context of the video, I figured it had to do with rotation on the build plate. But if the part is rotated in slicer to end up in an incrementally identical placement but prints differently.. Maybe you would also see that in a gcode simulator as well as being able to pick out and measure the edge move commands at each section? It's probably not important now, but an idea for another time.
I noticed you had a lot of Macros. Mine only has two. How did you get all of those macros? It would make my life easier not having to use the terminal.
The Macros came with the Github Klipper Install. If you are running FLSUN Klipper version, then you will not take advantage of a lot of stuff. In case you did install Github Klipper (see also other video on my channel), then the macros should be there. You can enable/ disable macros to be shown - check Settings (top right corner in Mainsail) and go for "Macros" tab. Here you have a list of all macros available and you can enable them to be shown or even group them. As I am still waiting for some Info from FLSUN on the Belt-Tension, I will not do the Belt-Tension video next, this will take me more time. I will upload a video about the settings in Github Klipper, which may also be interesting for you then. Not sure when it will be available... within next 2 weeks I guess.
Unfortunately, this is not yet fully okay, even after instlalling GitHub clipper. It improved, but it did not fully disappear. So: Yes, I still have that. Thanks for your comment, appreciated!
@@craftingmat5425 Have you turned off combing and turned on Z hop ? I've become very frustrated by the scraping. I've followed their steps on their YT about changing the cfg and slicer settings as well.
Hello Igor, thanks for commenting! I cannot tell from afar... I am using software Retract in my Slicer (Cura) and it is set to 0.5mm (which is default). I am not retracting at layer change, which is the only change I did to my slicer on the retraction topic. Not sure if your problem is related to retraction. My first guess would be that your filament is not dry. "Wet" filament will cause tons of irragularities and is not predictable when/ where/ how much. If you do not have a filament dryer, then put the filament you use in the oven at 50° for 2 or 3 hrs at least. After that give it another try. If that improved your prints... go ahead and buy a filament dryer (I like the Sunlu S2, there are vids about it and how to mod on my channel).
Does the V400 have power loss recovery? If so, try turning it off and check your prints. PLR sometimes causes blobs because the hot-end momentarily stops to record its progress.
You saved days of my life. I started installing everything by guide and got totally lost and stuck, to the point where i didn't know how to roll back to factory settings. Thank you very much!!! i did run into issue with my first print tho. at 89% my print simply stopped and pressing "resume" buttont didnt do much. have you had similar issues after calibration?
No, my printer is runnning fine. Did you have any error message? It is very unusual that the printer stops without any error message? I found out, that my Filament Sensor seems to be somehow not always detecting the filament, even if it is there. I deactivated it meanwhile in Klipper. The Sensor is lighted up, when it is okay and it is dark when it believes that there is no Filament. In case of a Filament run out the Printer will stop - maybe yours also had a hick-up? Other than that I assume the printer would only stop in case of a crash... but you did not mention such.
Merci pour l'éloge. Malheureusement, je n'ai pas le temps pour ce passe-temps, donc il n'y a eu que peu ou rien de nouveau depuis plusieurs mois. Merci!
Again a great video from Mat3D (working late). Allthough time has passed the video is still very instructive.
Small changes one should be aware of: The PID BED macro and the PID HOTEND do not execute an automatic SAVE anymore. In stead, the user is instructed to run the save macro.
Sehr gute Videos zum V400 , warte schon gespannnt auf das Input Shaper Video.
Bin gerade drüber... dauert noch etwas (Video editing frisst extrem viel Zeit, viel mehr als die Sachen selbst zu drehen... vertont werden müssen die Sachen auch, da kommt schnell die 20-40fache Zeit der VideoLaufzeit zusammen und ich kann meistens nur Nachts arbeiten, deswegen ist meine Schlagzahl deutlich niedriger - ich mache das nur zum Spaß).
Danke für Deinen Kommentar!
@@craftingmat5425 verstehe ich ... Jeder von uns hat noch ein Privatleben und auch Verpflichtungen. Ich habe Geduld und warte bis du soweit bist :-)
From where did you get the macros? Half of the video is done with that paper part ..the most easy one..😕
Thanks for this tutorial. Am I wrong or did you made some little math error :
(9.17+9.05+8.91)/3=9.04 (correct)
your calculus seems strange : you seem to calculate with 9.4 instead of 9.04
((100+0,904)*4,5)/100 = 4.540, Am I wrong ? Thanks again.
Weird. The Z offset procedure is the same on my Klipperized SR, and it saves the Z offset as it should, but when starting a print it does not use it, it prints in the air. Also using the command to save Z offset to Endstops tells me the Z offset is 0. Do you have an idea ? Thanks a lot.
Bekommst du nach dem clean Klipper einen deutlich besseren first layer über das gesamte Druckbett hin?
Habe noch die stock Firmware drauf. Hab schon ewig lange kalibriert und co. Aber ich kann einfach nicht mehrere Teile über das gesamte Druckbett drucken.
Ja! Bed_Mesh mit 9x9 Punkten zu 5 Versuchen kalibriert und im Start-Gcode geladen?
@@ralfterveer Ja, schon als erstes probiert. Danke
Hey Brouk! Danke für Deinen Kommentar!
Also der First Layer ist bei mir deutlich besser geworden nach Github Klipper.
Es gäbe da noch eine Option, aber die wäre schon ziemlich "nerdy"... da müsste ich richtig umbauen und auch selber n Macro schreiben usw. usf... ich glaube, dass ich das nicht machen werde/ dass ich das nicht mehr angehe.
Das First Layer sieht bei mir inzwischen ziemlich gut aus (bisl under-extrusion, ansonsten gut).
What is the Klipper command for endstop calibration ? Your screen does not show what goes to the console, and I can't find the command for it. ENDSTOP_CALIBRATE does not work.
Danke für die Anleitungen zu diesem Thema. Ich hab da ein Problem vielleicht kannst du mir ja helfen, wäre super. Ich mache den Z offset wie du aber er übernimmt ihn nicht. Null ist für ihn immer die höhe welche er nach dem abtasten hatte (ca 18mm über dem bett) hast ne idee? Danke
Hi, i have not Z_OFFSET CALIBRATION MACRO, do you have terminal command?. Thanks.
friend and installed the vanilla following all the steps in your video, but the time of the pad I can't get it to update itself, every time I restart the printer it changes to 12 in the morning
I checked it on my V400 - it is working fine for me. This is hard to point the finger at from afar... there is a section in the installation where you set the timezone and related stuff - maybe sth wrong there? Not sure if it needs to sync every new start - if so, then connection to your Network and access to the internet may be required for the time to be set correct... but tbh, this is only guessing from my side. I did not yet check on how the time is synced on Klipper.
so, if i understand correctly, this isnt the flsun firmware, but a flashed original Klipper? then does the auto-leveling equiptment also work on this firmware? i got a new v400 and still thinking if i should flash it
Yes this is correct. This is the original Klipper version. Auto-Levelling still works, yes. I am sorry that I do not have the time to provide more content here on YT.
If you want an overview about the flashing process, I did a video here as well, check this one out.
Very interesting video. I could imagine the remaining print issues to be from not perfectly horizontal moving effector plate, caused e.g. by slightly variying arm length. When the effector plate tilts a bit while traveling, the nozzle will to, causing print issues. Its pretty common for delta printers and therefore good resources to check it can be found easily.
BR
When you are interessted, I can provide quick help to check that.
how do I get all of my macro options set? Mine does not show 'setting z-offset'
Sorry for being late to the party... my macro is labeled "z offstet calibration" and is the last one in the list of macros. Did you miss it? It should be there.
Thanks for your comment!
Something about your printer seems like it must be.. mechanically wrong?.. Have you considered the possibility that maybe the axis are not mounted equi-distant around the perimeter of the bed? so instead of perfect 120 degees they are slightly deviated? Just an idea for something to try and check for, you could see if a stick fits between all extrusions equally. Another similar thing to look for is if any of them might have some hardware that shifts the positions the ball-joints with a slight offset, make sure all the rails point true to the center and none have a twist at the base, etc.
Thanks for your comment!
I am pretty sure mine is not less correct assembled than any one else on earth... the problem is systematic. Maybe you do not see it on yours (like the separated walls), because you are dispensing too much? In case you printed the snowflake - measure each and every beam of the snowflake - it should have 1.8mm in width. Not sure what is your requirement for the printer, for me, it is not yet as good / accurate as it should be. I installed original Github Klipper (see other video) and it improved after setup about 35-40%, but I am still -0.05mm to +0.25mm off (with maximum offset again in a 120° pattern). I assume this is a common V400 issue which is present more or less, but I assume it is present on any V400 (maybe even on any FLSUN Delta or maybe on any Delta printer).
@@craftingmat5425 I appreciate the feedback, though I was only giving possible ideas you might be able to check into further. If the gantry is true and the division between delta arms is the same, I'm not sure what else could cause those inaccuracies you are seeing. It seems unlikely the belts somehow have non-uniform regions that would be an irregular pitch and shift the distances, or maybe one tensions and stretched beyond specifications. But I don't think those match up with your output issues as much. It's an interesting problem so I'd be interested in seeing your resolution to it!
One last idea is if the kinematic model being used is inaccurate to the printer's joints, in cases with 2 or 3 motors needed.. it might cause an exaggeration in how far it needs to shift, or possibly the opposite behavior entirely or moving too short! If a move is toward or away from a beam, all 3 are needed. If it's parallel to a beam, 2 motors do the majority of the offset from each other.
There are actually some shapes you could plot out that would consist of locking 1 arm entirely, but they can't be straight lines obviously, I'm just not sure how you could use those to figure the root issue out. The generation of such objects would also be kinematically dependent for each printer, in theory.
@@Roobotics Again thanks for your input. Did you see the whole video? If yes... my conclusion is that it is somehow software related, because I could turn the issue by 30° compared between Cura 4 and Cura 5. This makes me think, that it is no mechanical issue.
Still it could be a mixup between mechanical and software - not sure.
Another idea I had was that it has to do with the non-linear distribution of positions due to geometry issues. The Axis makes larger Movements when it is an "inner" Postion but smaller Movements when it is an "outer" Position on the table. Maybe the positioning precision is not high enough in the outer area of the buildplate.
For now, I do not know the root cause. I just have some ideas. As said I doubt it is somehow mechanical.
@@craftingmat5425 Thanks for the clarification I must have misunderstood what you meant by rotating in the context of the video, I figured it had to do with rotation on the build plate. But if the part is rotated in slicer to end up in an incrementally identical placement but prints differently.. Maybe you would also see that in a gcode simulator as well as being able to pick out and measure the edge move commands at each section? It's probably not important now, but an idea for another time.
@@Roobotics I already tried this. I have Simplify3D which has a good simulator - you do not see this issue there.
hey can you send me that whole macro for the z calibration i dont seem to have it in my configurations.
Would you be willing to share your Cura profile?
I noticed you had a lot of Macros. Mine only has two. How did you get all of those macros? It would make my life easier not having to use the terminal.
The Macros came with the Github Klipper Install. If you are running FLSUN Klipper version, then you will not take advantage of a lot of stuff. In case you did install Github Klipper (see also other video on my channel), then the macros should be there.
You can enable/ disable macros to be shown - check Settings (top right corner in Mainsail) and go for "Macros" tab. Here you have a list of all macros available and you can enable them to be shown or even group them.
As I am still waiting for some Info from FLSUN on the Belt-Tension, I will not do the Belt-Tension video next, this will take me more time. I will upload a video about the settings in Github Klipper, which may also be interesting for you then. Not sure when it will be available... within next 2 weeks I guess.
Hi super Videos die du für den Flsun gemacht hast, vielen Dank. Was verwendest du für eine Webcam am V400? 🥳👍
Do you have any issues with nozzle scraping prints ?
Unfortunately, this is not yet fully okay, even after instlalling GitHub clipper. It improved, but it did not fully disappear. So: Yes, I still have that.
Thanks for your comment, appreciated!
@@craftingmat5425 Have you turned off combing and turned on Z hop ? I've become very frustrated by the scraping. I've followed their steps on their YT about changing the cfg and slicer settings as well.
mine only goes so low then stops, i can keep hitting the minus buttons and it will go up and down at the same point.
Hello, please tell me how much you have a retract? I have pimples and irregularities on the model when printing. Because of what maybe?
Hello Igor, thanks for commenting!
I cannot tell from afar... I am using software Retract in my Slicer (Cura) and it is set to 0.5mm (which is default). I am not retracting at layer change, which is the only change I did to my slicer on the retraction topic.
Not sure if your problem is related to retraction.
My first guess would be that your filament is not dry. "Wet" filament will cause tons of irragularities and is not predictable when/ where/ how much.
If you do not have a filament dryer, then put the filament you use in the oven at 50° for 2 or 3 hrs at least. After that give it another try.
If that improved your prints... go ahead and buy a filament dryer (I like the Sunlu S2, there are vids about it and how to mod on my channel).
Does the V400 have power loss recovery? If so, try turning it off and check your prints. PLR sometimes causes blobs because the hot-end momentarily stops to record its progress.
@@craftingmat5425 Thanks)
Can you share the configuration file?
Exactly which config file do you mean?
Adaptive mesh is a whole lot less time consuming!
You saved days of my life. I started installing everything by guide and got totally lost and stuck, to the point where i didn't know how to roll back to factory settings.
Thank you very much!!!
i did run into issue with my first print tho. at 89% my print simply stopped and pressing "resume" buttont didnt do much. have you had similar issues after calibration?
No, my printer is runnning fine. Did you have any error message? It is very unusual that the printer stops without any error message?
I found out, that my Filament Sensor seems to be somehow not always detecting the filament, even if it is there. I deactivated it meanwhile in Klipper. The Sensor is lighted up, when it is okay and it is dark when it believes that there is no Filament. In case of a Filament run out the Printer will stop - maybe yours also had a hick-up?
Other than that I assume the printer would only stop in case of a crash... but you did not mention such.
Dommage qu'il n'y est pas la même qui existe en français même si on arrive a suivre ; Bravo super travail!👍
Merci pour l'éloge. Malheureusement, je n'ai pas le temps pour ce passe-temps, donc il n'y a eu que peu ou rien de nouveau depuis plusieurs mois. Merci!
See video Обзор FLSUN V400 - Где амазинг спеед?