Great tutorial! Very helpful. I used your link for the 30mm bearing adapter. I was able to find almost the same exact tool on Amzn which saved some waiting. I love to do it myself and end up with a tool that will come in handy in the future. Now to try out the new ceramic bearings! Thanks again for taking the time to be helpful!!! (the bearing number I needed for the BSA30 was 6806 RS, and 68062RS for the ceramic)
One thing I observed is that once the bearing is extracted, that same bearing should not be used again. The inner ring is being pushed, thus, it can damage the inner and outer races and steel balls.
So, after I buy the $200 tools and the $200 bottom bracket, I have two years to enjoy the bottom bracket before they change the standard again and my new crankset requires a different tool and bottom bracket, before I even have time to change the bearings on the old one. Does anybody want a Hope 24mm bottom bracket?
During the extraction where your bearing was stuck on the tool, i’m not getting why that had to even be in there? (That tool seems like it would be used to press back together) You were pushing on the inner at the front, and pushing thru from the back bracing off the large thin ring on the outside.
Are you referring to timestamp 2:21 when I slid those little bearing off of the rod? Those are not necessary. They just make it easier to turn the handle. It’s basically a small bearing sandwiched by two washer plates. This way, when you turn the handle, it can spin around the bearing, and the washer plate still pushes the pusher rod (or whatever you are pushing on). When I took the little bearing off, the handle was pressing against the pusher rod at the same time I was rotating. It didn’t make a difference in this instance. But if there is a case where you need a lot more force (maybe a bearing is seized) then those little bearing on the rod help a lot. I think this is what you were referring to and hope it makes sense. In short, They are not necessary but make the turning smoother.
@@GNX157 ok thanks! I understand what you are asking now. The bearing sits almost flush with the cup. There is only a very small lip. Point being, there is not enough of an edge protruding from the bearing to be able to push it out with a normal extractor. The way this extractor piece works is that it expands. So first you place the piece in question inside the bearing. Then, from the backside you start pushing the big nut in. This expands the first piece which grabs hold of the bearing and pulls it out. It would not work without that piece. If you look closely at 1:12-1:15 you can see the back edge is ever so slightly raised. That is the part that catches on the small lip of the bearing. And then 3:50 you can see it again when I’m trying to get the bearing off of it. So in essence the bearing is actually being pulled out by the forces that piece is placing on the inner race, made possible by its expansion.
lolz, the money those tools cost? cheaper to just buy new BB that will have brand new bearings installed, not to mention in a few years those tools will be useless! This tool is only useful if you remove bearings regualry, which 99.9% of us don't...unless you run a business fixing BB's!
Great tutorial! Very helpful. I used your link for the 30mm bearing adapter. I was able to find almost the same exact tool on Amzn which saved some waiting. I love to do it myself and end up with a tool that will come in handy in the future. Now to try out the new ceramic bearings! Thanks again for taking the time to be helpful!!!
(the bearing number I needed for the BSA30 was 6806 RS, and 68062RS for the ceramic)
One thing I observed is that once the bearing is extracted, that same bearing should not be used again. The inner ring is being pushed, thus, it can damage the inner and outer races and steel balls.
Lol it's not something g you observed but something you read dude...
Could you please tell me how wide the external bearings protrude from the frame trying to figure out if I can use them with my FSA cranks.
So, after I buy the $200 tools and the $200 bottom bracket, I have two years to enjoy the bottom bracket before they change the standard again and my new crankset requires a different tool and bottom bracket, before I even have time to change the bearings on the old one. Does anybody want a Hope 24mm bottom bracket?
eBay link is dead got another you can recommend?
Thanks for that, very useful!
Where i can buy in EU 30mm Sealed Bearing Extractor ?
Sorry about your rod not being long enough dude. This is a lot of extra hardware to extract a bearing. I think I will just buy new cups
what tools is that?
I wanna see how u get a mid bottom bracket BB out of a american bottom bracket cup
During the extraction where your bearing was stuck on the tool, i’m not getting why that had to even be in there? (That tool seems like it would be used to press back together) You were pushing on the inner at the front, and pushing thru from the back bracing off the large thin ring on the outside.
Are you referring to timestamp 2:21 when I slid those little bearing off of the rod? Those are not necessary. They just make it easier to turn the handle. It’s basically a small bearing sandwiched by two washer plates. This way, when you turn the handle, it can spin around the bearing, and the washer plate still pushes the pusher rod (or whatever you are pushing on). When I took the little bearing off, the handle was pressing against the pusher rod at the same time I was rotating.
It didn’t make a difference in this instance. But if there is a case where you need a lot more force (maybe a bearing is seized) then those little bearing on the rod help a lot.
I think this is what you were referring to and hope it makes sense. In short, They are not necessary but make the turning smoother.
At 1:54, why did you put that in there when you were going to be pushing on the outside at the back?
@@GNX157 ok thanks! I understand what you are asking now. The bearing sits almost flush with the cup. There is only a very small lip.
Point being, there is not enough of an edge protruding from the bearing to be able to push it out with a normal extractor.
The way this extractor piece works is that it expands.
So first you place the piece in question inside the bearing.
Then, from the backside you start pushing the big nut in. This expands the first piece which grabs hold of the bearing and pulls it out.
It would not work without that piece. If you look closely at 1:12-1:15 you can see the back edge is ever so slightly raised. That is the part that catches on the small lip of the bearing. And then 3:50 you can see it again when I’m trying to get the bearing off of it.
So in essence the bearing is actually being pulled out by the forces that piece is placing on the inner race, made possible by its expansion.
@@jp7jdubs ok thanks, I understand much better now 👍
that tool is very expensive here in our country...
lolz, the money those tools cost? cheaper to just buy new BB that will have brand new bearings installed, not to mention in a few years those tools will be useless! This tool is only useful if you remove bearings regualry, which 99.9% of us don't...unless you run a business fixing BB's!
Don’t ever work on my bike