I have been fishing for decades and have read countless books, magazines and now of course "the internet". This is the first time I have heard of setting the drag in this manner. I also assumed the rating on the rod referred to line breaking strain! Thank you so much for explaining this. Most informative.
Your title is not wrong. I'd go as far as 97 out of 100 anglers don't know this. Thanks again on the information earlier about spool capacity. Very helpful channel.
Thank you brother!! Been fishing for a living for 35 years. It would be a dang shame to keep these tips to myself when they should be shared. More successful fishermen means more fathers taking kids fishing and more fishermen in the future.
I've been doing it wrong the whole time .. good video very educational... and I also love your channel ,don't understand why video is not doing so well..keep them coming mike...
Thanks brother!!! I really appreciate the support!! RUclips has been strange lately. It’s only been an hour, hopefully it does better. I’ll keep chugging either way!😁🙏🙏
@@MikeSmedleyOLDSCHOOLSTRIPERS I troll Yo Zuri 51/4 inch shallow or deep diving depending on the depth or P Line predator 6 inch Shallow or deep. Sometimes 3/4 ounce rattle traps in shallow water.I put a white or a black 6 inch rubber worm on the back trebles.
@@dannyneihart1821 In my playlists you will see one called TROLLING it has some cool videos showing what we troll with. There are a few freshwater ones with smaller baits as well👍👍
I do a lot of down line fishing for striper and set my drag for the initial strike where the fish can run but enough where that circle hook sets it’s self and adjust drag from there rarely have loose any
Sure. This is a breakdown video of the slow pitch rods I jig with. Fast action and slow pitch are unrelated terms. Slow pitch is a style of jigging. It’s in this video ruclips.net/video/CnLlG0R7nOU/видео.html. Fast or slow ACTION is “simply put” the speed a rod tip rebounds. But even simpler put; a soft tip is slow and a stiff tip is fast. 👍👍👍
Wow....awesome info! Thanks. What about line size for casting distance? I'm into surf fishing on the beach. Trying to find the right combo for casting distance yet strong enough to reel in that monster. Have you done a video on this?
Thanks brother!! I assume you’re going with a big spinning reel for the surf. Lots of guys go with 90lb on surf spinning reels, but I prefer 60lb on a reel in the 5500 and up size. You’ll get way more distance and a lot more capacity. 👍👍
bought a abu garcia 6500. before i fill spool at which position should the drag and spool brake be at? i mean drag tight while filling spool, likewise the brake tight? thank you. lov ur show very informative for this retired old veteran. 🙏
Glad you like the videos!!! Especially with you being a veteran!!! Thanks a million for your service brother! You can go ahead and crank the drag down while filling the reel. But don’t store the reel with drag tight. It will flatten the washers. Try to apply decent pressure to the line spool so the line lays on a bit tight. The spool tension knob isn’t really important while filling the reel. Once the reel is full, loosen the knob a lot. Until the spool is wobbling loose. Then I wobble the spool left and right with my thumb while slowly tightening the knob. Tighten until the spool is ALMOST completely stopped moving left and right. A slight looseness is preferred. Depending on your model reel you will have different brakes inside the reel on the spool. Once you get the brakes set where you want them you can fine tune with the tension knob. If my reel has 6 or 8 braking weights I always start with just two brakes engaged. I usually stay with just 2. Let me know if you have any more questions. I know it can be confusing.
Mike! i just want to give a shout out man, We've been crushing them on the flutter spoon in the Long Island sound. Got my PB sunday night, 48". Thanks for the knowledge my man!
What seems to look like all fun on your videos must come with tons of hard work behind the scenes. Very well produced and much appreciated! I have tended to keep drag settings on the tighter side because I was told once that a slipping drag kills power on hook sets. He emphasized it as a problem particularly for larger class stripers because they tend to have harder mouths for hooks to penetrate. He said to know your drag well enough so that you can adjust it down in a split second after the hook set for the ensuing fight... Interested in if you agree with that logic and if so, what situations it would be a higher consideration for you? Thanks Mike.
Thanks for the kind words brother! I really appreciate it. What he’s saying makes total sense and I can see that being effective. However, I actually do the opposite. I set my drags for the fight and then back it off around 25% before putting it in the rod holder. I do this for a few reasons. 1. So you can get the rod out easier because it’s under a lighter load. 2. The fish makes the hardest run usually right after the strike and I’d rather tension be at an 8 versus a 10 at that point, just in case a line is nicked or drag isn’t set exactly perfect. I just think more bad things can happen with a tighter drag at strike, like bent and broken hooks, line, rod holders, rods, etc. A lot also comes down to line class. I use 30lb mono. My fight drag in open water is around 8lbs. Strike drag is around 6lbs. With a full spool. As the spool empties tension increases so a long run may end up closer to 8. (8 May turn to 10). Also, (probably most importantly) I would rather the fish run STRAIGHT during a long run on a lighter drag as it sets the hook nice and deep. When a tight drag STOPS a fish, the fish can spin, turn, flare it’s gills to expel the hook, and thrash. I feel that a longer run slowly brings the fish to a more gentle stop. That’s my take. Open water is the key of course. Hope this helps. Thanks again! 🙏👍
Thanks brother!! No scale needed. Just hook the end of a rod holder and pull up until the rod flexes well into the backbone of the rod. Slowly loosen the drag until it starts to pay out a little. As long as you’re using line that is within or above the line rating written on the rod you’re good to go. To be honest you can really use line quite a bit lighter than the rating as well in most cases. I will do a follow up video showing how to do it soon👍👍. Thanks for the continued support!!🙏🙏
Great info Mike. I use 20 lb. Mono on a medium Striper Stealth rod but I use a 12 lb fluorocarbon leader. If I set the drag to the rod don’t I risk having the leader snap on a down line hard hit?
Great question!!! You’re within %50 percent of the main line so I personally wouldn’t change it much. Although settings the drag for 12lb would still put you in the backbone nicely. Now if that leader stays on there for a few trips and weakens some you might want to back off a touch, but another beautiful thing about the SS rods is how large the back bone area is. The rods are very parabolic. They bend quite evenly. You can decrease quite a bit of drag and still have lots of backbone. If you had the H or EH rod you might have a tricky issue, but you chose the correct rod for your style 👍👍👍thanks for the great comment brother!
Opened a can of worms 😳…drag setting also goes down to terminal tackle ( hooks and leaders ) fishing from a boat from land pole action profile ETC….then we get down to type of fish and their abilities…where I’m at we don’t go max lb. Test in reel with a pole with half the capabilities…quite the opposite because we deal with a lot of wind and currents… I’d say tune you drag to your tackle first…
I personally think that the largest factor is WHERE you are; In open water or near structure. If you chose the proper gear/tackle, in open water, with no obstacles around, that other stuff doesn’t worry me at all. 👍👍
Do u do any fishing in Long Island Sound? I have been watching your videos trying to encourage my dad to try new techniques. How would you fish a new fishery especially one with structure that can be found pretty deep compared to what you guys usually fish in Raritan bay. Maybe a video idea
This was Long Island sound a while back. Only fished it a few times ruclips.net/video/3_g1CUad5T8/видео.html. This video was on fishing new areas. It actually shows what you are talking about 👍👍. Good idea 😁ruclips.net/video/sbCBEO5Eb70/видео.html
Thanks brother!!! That’s one of my signature casting rods. The black and blue series. Absolutely sinister rods. I just finished 1 year testing the 2.0 version, so it’s been around 6 years working with the builder. I won’t mention the rods in a video until I have lots of time on them. I will be announcing the 2.0 in a few weeks actually now that it’s been a year. They are designed to work as a pair, but you can get just one if you want. Blue blank with black grips is medium power. Black blank with blue grips is medium heavy power. Rainshadow moderate fast low modulus graphite composite so they are tough and not brittle like high modulus. Carbon fiber grips so it feels like you are holding the blank directly. No soft foam so you feel the blank with your entire hand. We added the counter weight system to the butt like my jigging rods. They are super high end, but not more expensive than high end rods in stores really, but you will never find a production rod like these. Hand made by a veteran in California brother!! I’m am very pleased with and very proud of these rods. You can email Rich Coulson in the description of any of my videos to get one. He can even weave your name into the blank if you like. 👍👍. If you get one, please let me know how you like it. I’m always looking for feedback from hardcore fishermen like you. Thanks for your continued support!!!🙏🙏
@iamalemontree I don’t know an exact price because it changes so often. The expenses, parts, and materials run all up and down the charts these days. I’m sure you know how it is since the prices of diesel started fluctuating so much. The best I can do is a guesstimate. They run very closely to higher end rods in stores like G.Loomis. In fact, (don’t quote me), but 2 years ago, my Black and Blue series casting rods (not jigging) ran $75 LESS than the top Loomis rods. Hope this helps, sorry I can’t give you an exact price. If you shoot Rich a quick email he will be happy to help you. He’s very easy to work with and he will definitely hook you up. I’ll email him right now and tell him to look out for your email. He will take extra good care of you if you’re interested. I’ll let him know what we spoke about and how you’ve been a huge support of Team Old School. Here ya go! Thanks! headfirstcustomrods340@gmail.com
I get what your saying and I'm sure most people do but i think of you hooked your line to a cleat and demonstrated it visually the people that could really benefit from the video would understand a bit better. Great video like usual brother!
Are you sure to set the drag according to the middle of the rod? Does it depend on the rated action of the rod to set the drag and most important the lb of the line?
Thanks brother! It’s actually pretty simple. I’ve gotten pretty good at finding it by pushing the rod down on the carpet, but it’s way easier to DO than explain. I’ll do a video on it. Great idea 👍👍
Hey Mike love your videos quick question for ya if you see this. I fish up in South Shore Ma just north of cape cod. Not uncommon for us to run into 40+ pound stripers. What brand / pound test do you suggest? We do mostly live bait trolling with those beauty striper stealth rods you showed me. Thanks in advanced!
Thanks brother!! Definitely 30lb mono. It’s my goto for all types of bait fishing. I like Pro-Spec but this stuff is more affordable and pretty amazing stuff. amzn.to/3IGDnfp
I will be doing a follow up. I see how that can be confusing. Don’t worry about the number. Adjust drag so it pays out when the backbone flexes. That backbone area is within the line rating printed on the rods. So as long as it flexes there- you’re good 👍 The numbers on drag knob and the numbers on the line test are out the window. As long as the drag pays out when the rod flexes into the backbone and not before or beyond, the drag is set👍👍
I almost always lock up the reel to full drag with clicker on. I may reduce drag to 80% to get the rod out of the holder easier, but it’s still very firm. 👍
actually learned from this video to let the drag go PAST the backbone and not up to the backbone, because the rod preforms the best with the backbone bent drag reaction before or at the start of the backbone does not allow the rod to do its job
I will do a follow up video. Just pull up on the hook until the rod bends through the backbone. Hold it there. Loosen drag until it starts to pay out slightly. 👍👍
if the rod loads on the rod are 17-30 the max drag seting is going to be 23# but the real load(WORKING LOAD) setting is between 7#s to 15#s on the drag setting, . example i have reels made for the ocean fishing on big tunas, some reels to 60 #s max drag , but i cant hold 60 # drag, so here fighting the big boys, im set for 25-30 #s drag , that 20 to 30 in the fight, , slowing down the fish , and working the act of fishing the fish instead of winching him to the boat, its to be a sport, not work? your backbone ides is right on, most rods have a 2nd to 3rd eye for the backbones on the rods, other then seeker or calstar to mention my rods of choice,
If the rod is in the rodholder when the fish strikes like live bait, cutbait or trolling I go super slow action. If I’m holding the rod at strike I like faster actions.
@@MikeSmedleyOLDSCHOOLSTRIPERS so for a rod that would be used for jigging spoons, what would you recommend? I'm looking at the catch the fever rods. As I already have their hellcat series
You really have more leeway than that, (a rod rated down to 10lb usually only needs 3-4 lbs of drag to get thru the backbone) but that’s a good rule of thumb, sure.👍👍.
I moved to NC 29 years ago. I fished a Striper lake close to my house and fished over 15 straight full days without a single bite. It was probably another 30-40 days before I could catch them regularly. Actually because there was nobody willing to help me out I made the decision right then to share everything I learned on video one day. True story. 🤷🏻♂️
I will definitely do that. Thanks for the feedback. Have someone hold the end of your line or attach the hook to a rod holder and pull the rod up. Start by tightening the drag most of the way and bend the rod to the backbone by pulling up on it. Slowly loosen drag until it pays out with the rod still bent. Once it starts to pay out you’re all set. 👍👍
@@MikeSmedleyOLDSCHOOLSTRIPERS lol yup. You touch’a my rod I break’a yo face. Hahaha Kinda tricky when your customers are the ones handling your equipment. I’d rather have a break than watching the reel go overboard. I’m sure y’all take every precaution
I have been fishing for decades and have read countless books, magazines and now of course "the internet". This is the first time I have heard of setting the drag in this manner. I also assumed the rating on the rod referred to line breaking strain! Thank you so much for explaining this. Most informative.
Thanks so much brother!!! I really appreciate that! 🙏🙏❤️
Perfect explanation!!! Thank you sir
Thanks brother!!!!🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏😁
Your title is not wrong. I'd go as far as 97 out of 100 anglers don't know this.
Thanks again on the information earlier about spool capacity. Very helpful channel.
Thank you!! I really appreciate that brother!!🙏🙏🙏😁
Next level as always. We appreciate how you invest in fisherman with your knowledge.
Thank you brother!! Been fishing for a living for 35 years. It would be a dang shame to keep these tips to myself when they should be shared. More successful fishermen means more fathers taking kids fishing and more fishermen in the future.
Wow, great, simple explanation! Now i know…Thank you Sir!
@@allanos808 thanks brother!!!🙏🙏
Thanks, your videos have been extremely helpful in getting my electronics setup. And I learned a great tip from this one also.
Thanks brother!! I really appreciate the support!! 🙏🙏🙏😁👍
I've been doing it wrong the whole time .. good video very educational... and I also love your channel ,don't understand why video is not doing so well..keep them coming mike...
Thanks brother!!! I really appreciate the support!! RUclips has been strange lately. It’s only been an hour, hopefully it does better. I’ll keep chugging either way!😁🙏🙏
You're in a big boat there brother. I always heard set the drag at 25-30% of the line strength.
Thanks a lot Mike, that's the first time I've heard that. No doubt like many others I always set the drag to suit the line. Love your videos.
Best advice on this subject I have ever heard.
Thanks Tim!! 🙏
👏👏It couldn’t be any clearer said Mike excellent excellent excellent job keep the tutorial videos coming 👍
Thanks brah!!!! 😊😁😁😁🙏🙏👍👍👍
Big help again. Thank you! I have been fishing for over 50 years and continue to learn.
🙏🙏🙏🙏👍😁😁
Definitely makes sense…. I just love fishing 🎣 thanks Team Old School
My man! Loving the continued support my brother!! 🙏🙏🙏
Excellent tips…clear n concise!
Thank you brother!!🙏🙏🙏😁
Great video Mike. I was never sure on how to set the drag. I would enjoy a trolling video. Thanks for the information!
Thanks Danny!! What types of baits do you troll?
@@MikeSmedleyOLDSCHOOLSTRIPERS I troll Yo Zuri 51/4 inch shallow or deep diving depending on the depth or P Line predator 6 inch Shallow or deep. Sometimes 3/4 ounce rattle traps in shallow water.I put a white or a black 6 inch rubber worm on the back trebles.
Same. Would love to see one of these quickies on maja spoons and mojos.
@@dannyneihart1821 In my playlists you will see one called TROLLING it has some cool videos showing what we troll with. There are a few freshwater ones with smaller baits as well👍👍
@@AnthonyRovedo Check out my TROLLING playlist. I have a few covering MOJOS and MOJO-SPOON combos👍👍👍🙏🙏🙏thanks brother.
Yeah do a video on what it's like chartering you ? Your charger seasons and such.the whole run down.i would love to fish a day with you .
Never knew that. I like the way you explained.
Thanks brother!!!!🙏🙏🙏👍
I do a lot of down line fishing for striper and set my drag for the initial strike where the fish can run but enough where that circle hook sets it’s self and adjust drag from there rarely have loose any
Now that was great information !!!!
Thanks Gary!!!🙏🙏🙏🙏
good info, makes sense, never thought of it that way
Thanks George! 🙏🙏
This migjt be common knowledge to some but to me this was very helpful and makes alot of sense. Great video again Striper King!
Thanks Brian!! I’m glad you liked it!! I appreciate your continued support brother 😁🙏.
Great information, Thank you!
🙏😁
Great insight! Never heard this before-
Thanks Charles! You’re not the only one. I can honestly say, I’ve never heard anyone talk about it before. 🤷🏻♂️
Thx love your vids mean it!
Hey capt. Hope all is well. Thanks for the tips
Thanks Rolando! Same to you!! Glad you like them brother 😊🙏🙏🙏
Thanks for the education!
I’m glad you found it useful brother! 😁🙏
Thanks Mike
🙏🙏🙏😁
Thanks for your video!
I have a question,
Could I explain to me about fast action & slow pitch action rod?
Sure. This is a breakdown video of the slow pitch rods I jig with. Fast action and slow pitch are unrelated terms. Slow pitch is a style of jigging. It’s in this video ruclips.net/video/CnLlG0R7nOU/видео.html. Fast or slow ACTION is “simply put” the speed a rod tip rebounds. But even simpler put; a soft tip is slow and a stiff tip is fast. 👍👍👍
Great tip Mike. Hope you can return to doing vids for southern lakes.
Thanks brother!! That is the plan! 👍👍
Wow....awesome info! Thanks.
What about line size for casting distance? I'm into surf fishing on the beach. Trying to find the right combo for casting distance yet strong enough to reel in that monster. Have you done a video on this?
Thanks brother!! I assume you’re going with a big spinning reel for the surf. Lots of guys go with 90lb on surf spinning reels, but I prefer 60lb on a reel in the 5500 and up size. You’ll get way more distance and a lot more capacity. 👍👍
bought a abu garcia 6500. before i fill spool at which position should the drag and spool brake be at? i mean drag tight while filling spool, likewise the brake tight? thank you. lov ur show very informative for this retired old veteran. 🙏
Glad you like the videos!!! Especially with you being a veteran!!! Thanks a million for your service brother!
You can go ahead and crank the drag down while filling the reel. But don’t store the reel with drag tight. It will flatten the washers. Try to apply decent pressure to the line spool so the line lays on a bit tight. The spool tension knob isn’t really important while filling the reel. Once the reel is full, loosen the knob a lot. Until the spool is wobbling loose.
Then I wobble the spool left and right with my thumb while slowly tightening the knob. Tighten until the spool is ALMOST completely stopped moving left and right. A slight looseness is preferred. Depending on your model reel you will have different brakes inside the reel on the spool. Once you get the brakes set where you want them you can fine tune with the tension knob. If my reel has 6 or 8 braking weights I always start with just two brakes engaged. I usually stay with just 2. Let me know if you have any more questions. I know it can be confusing.
Mike! i just want to give a shout out man, We've been crushing them on the flutter spoon in the Long Island sound. Got my PB sunday night, 48". Thanks for the knowledge my man!
Hell yeah!!! I love it!!! Congratulations brother!
@@MikeSmedleyOLDSCHOOLSTRIPERS Thanks bro! The community appreciates everything you do!
@@Sebbylagana that’s so great to hear. I appreciate you brother 🙏🙏😊
What seems to look like all fun on your videos must come with tons of hard work behind the scenes. Very well produced and much appreciated! I have tended to keep drag settings on the tighter side because I was told once that a slipping drag kills power on hook sets. He emphasized it as a problem particularly for larger class stripers because they tend to have harder mouths for hooks to penetrate. He said to know your drag well enough so that you can adjust it down in a split second after the hook set for the ensuing fight... Interested in if you agree with that logic and if so, what situations it would be a higher consideration for you? Thanks Mike.
Thanks for the kind words brother! I really appreciate it. What he’s saying makes total sense and I can see that being effective. However, I actually do the opposite. I set my drags for the fight and then back it off around 25% before putting it in the rod holder. I do this for a few reasons. 1. So you can get the rod out easier because it’s under a lighter load. 2. The fish makes the hardest run usually right after the strike and I’d rather tension be at an 8 versus a 10 at that point, just in case a line is nicked or drag isn’t set exactly perfect. I just think more bad things can happen with a tighter drag at strike, like bent and broken hooks, line, rod holders, rods, etc. A lot also comes down to line class. I use 30lb mono. My fight drag in open water is around 8lbs. Strike drag is around 6lbs. With a full spool. As the spool empties tension increases so a long run may end up closer to 8. (8 May turn to 10). Also, (probably most importantly) I would rather the fish run STRAIGHT during a long run on a lighter drag as it sets the hook nice and deep. When a tight drag STOPS a fish, the fish can spin, turn, flare it’s gills to expel the hook, and thrash. I feel that a longer run slowly brings the fish to a more gentle stop. That’s my take. Open water is the key of course. Hope this helps. Thanks again! 🙏👍
Dummy here ... lol. I've been doing or thinking it wrong. Do or should you use a spring scale or calibrated weights to set it? U Da Man!
Thanks brother!! No scale needed. Just hook the end of a rod holder and pull up until the rod flexes well into the backbone of the rod. Slowly loosen the drag until it starts to pay out a little. As long as you’re using line that is within or above the line rating written on the rod you’re good to go. To be honest you can really use line quite a bit lighter than the rating as well in most cases. I will do a follow up video showing how to do it soon👍👍. Thanks for the continued support!!🙏🙏
Great info Mike. I use 20 lb. Mono on a medium Striper Stealth rod but I use a 12 lb fluorocarbon leader. If I set the drag to the rod don’t I risk having the leader snap on a down line hard hit?
Great question!!! You’re within %50 percent of the main line so I personally wouldn’t change it much. Although settings the drag for 12lb would still put you in the backbone nicely.
Now if that leader stays on there for a few trips and weakens some you might want to back off a touch, but another beautiful thing about the SS rods is how large the back bone area is. The rods are very parabolic. They bend quite evenly. You can decrease quite a bit of drag and still have lots of backbone. If you had the H or EH rod you might have a tricky issue, but you chose the correct rod for your style 👍👍👍thanks for the great comment brother!
All in! Thanks
Thanks brah!!😁🙏
Opened a can of worms 😳…drag setting also goes down to terminal tackle ( hooks and leaders ) fishing from a boat from land pole action profile ETC….then we get down to type of fish and their abilities…where I’m at we don’t go max lb. Test in reel with a pole with half the capabilities…quite the opposite because we deal with a lot of wind and currents… I’d say tune you drag to your tackle first…
I personally think that the largest factor is WHERE you are; In open water or near structure. If you chose the proper gear/tackle, in open water, with no obstacles around, that other stuff doesn’t worry me at all. 👍👍
Do u do any fishing in Long Island Sound? I have been watching your videos trying to encourage my dad to try new techniques. How would you fish a new fishery especially one with structure that can be found pretty deep compared to what you guys usually fish in Raritan bay. Maybe a video idea
This was Long Island sound a while back. Only fished it a few times ruclips.net/video/3_g1CUad5T8/видео.html. This video was on fishing new areas. It actually shows what you are talking about 👍👍. Good idea 😁ruclips.net/video/sbCBEO5Eb70/видео.html
@@MikeSmedleyOLDSCHOOLSTRIPERS awesome thanks mike. Keep up the good work
okay thank you 😀
🙏👍
Great video! What rod was that blue casting rod brother?
Thanks brother!!! That’s one of my signature casting rods. The black and blue series. Absolutely sinister rods. I just finished 1 year testing the 2.0 version, so it’s been around 6 years working with the builder. I won’t mention the rods in a video until I have lots of time on them. I will be announcing the 2.0 in a few weeks actually now that it’s been a year. They are designed to work as a pair, but you can get just one if you want. Blue blank with black grips is medium power. Black blank with blue grips is medium heavy power. Rainshadow moderate fast low modulus graphite composite so they are tough and not brittle like high modulus. Carbon fiber grips so it feels like you are holding the blank directly. No soft foam so you feel the blank with your entire hand. We added the counter weight system to the butt like my jigging rods. They are super high end, but not more expensive than high end rods in stores really, but you will never find a production rod like these. Hand made by a veteran in California brother!! I’m am very pleased with and very proud of these rods. You can email Rich Coulson in the description of any of my videos to get one. He can even weave your name into the blank if you like. 👍👍. If you get one, please let me know how you like it. I’m always looking for feedback from hardcore fishermen like you. Thanks for your continued support!!!🙏🙏
@@MikeSmedleyOLDSCHOOLSTRIPERS do ya know how much does the rod cost brother?
@iamalemontree I don’t know an exact price because it changes so often. The expenses, parts, and materials run all up and down the charts these days. I’m sure you know how it is since the prices of diesel started fluctuating so much. The best I can do is a guesstimate. They run very closely to higher end rods in stores like G.Loomis. In fact, (don’t quote me), but 2 years ago, my Black and Blue series casting rods (not jigging) ran $75 LESS than the top Loomis rods. Hope this helps, sorry I can’t give you an exact price. If you shoot Rich a quick email he will be happy to help you. He’s very easy to work with and he will definitely hook you up. I’ll email him right now and tell him to look out for your email. He will take extra good care of you if you’re interested. I’ll let him know what we spoke about and how you’ve been a huge support of Team Old School.
Here ya go! Thanks!
headfirstcustomrods340@gmail.com
I get what your saying and I'm sure most people do but i think of you hooked your line to a cleat and demonstrated it visually the people that could really benefit from the video would understand a bit better. Great video like usual brother!
Great idea. I’ll do a follow up video 👍👍👍🙏. Thanks!
Are you sure to set the drag according to the middle of the rod? Does it depend on the rated action of the rod to set the drag and most important the lb of the line?
Not the middle of the rod exactly. The middle of the back bone. When you set the drag to line rating on the rod you will be in the back bone👍👍
How do you find the backbone of each particular rod? Thanks for the great videos!
Thanks brother! It’s actually pretty simple. I’ve gotten pretty good at finding it by pushing the rod down on the carpet, but it’s way easier to DO than explain. I’ll do a video on it. Great idea 👍👍
Hey Mike love your videos quick question for ya if you see this. I fish up in South Shore Ma just north of cape cod. Not uncommon for us to run into 40+ pound stripers. What brand / pound test do you suggest? We do mostly live bait trolling with those beauty striper stealth rods you showed me. Thanks in advanced!
Thanks brother!! Definitely 30lb mono. It’s my goto for all types of bait fishing. I like Pro-Spec but this stuff is more affordable and pretty amazing stuff. amzn.to/3IGDnfp
@@MikeSmedleyOLDSCHOOLSTRIPERS thanks Mike you’re the best! You often do a 30 lb mono leader with a swivel too correct?
Most times yes sir, but you’re on clearer water than me so I would go with 30lb fluoro leader. Small swivel. 👍👍👍
@@MikeSmedleyOLDSCHOOLSTRIPERS thanks Mike you’re the goat
Interesting and I agree but you never said how to set the drag. How to determine 15 lbs of drag.
I will be doing a follow up. I see how that can be confusing. Don’t worry about the number. Adjust drag so it pays out when the backbone flexes. That backbone area is within the line rating printed on the rods. So as long as it flexes there- you’re good 👍 The numbers on drag knob and the numbers on the line test are out the window.
As long as the drag pays out when the rod flexes into the backbone and not before or beyond, the drag is set👍👍
well explained
Thanks brother!!!🙏👍
Mike do you use a clicker when fishing live or cut bait? Or just have the drag set accordingly?
I almost always lock up the reel to full drag with clicker on. I may reduce drag to 80% to get the rod out of the holder easier, but it’s still very firm. 👍
actually learned from this video
to let the drag go PAST the backbone and not up to the backbone, because the rod preforms the best with the backbone bent
drag reaction before or at the start of the backbone does not allow the rod to do its job
love my crappie fishing
Awesome! 🙏🙏
My drag is 18lbs can i put a 20lbs braided on the spool?
No. It will snap well before drag pays out. We use 30lb line and only 5-6lb of drag max.
Tell us how to set drag, I have a fish scale and hook up the line to it and pull on it until the scale is at the weight I want the line adjusted.
I will do a follow up video. Just pull up on the hook until the rod bends through the backbone. Hold it there. Loosen drag until it starts to pay out slightly. 👍👍
if the rod loads on the rod are 17-30 the max drag seting is going to be 23# but the real load(WORKING LOAD) setting is between 7#s to 15#s on the drag setting, . example i have reels made for the ocean fishing on big tunas, some reels to 60 #s max drag , but i cant hold 60 # drag, so here fighting the big boys, im set for 25-30 #s drag , that 20 to 30 in the fight, , slowing down the fish , and working the act of fishing the fish instead of winching him to the boat, its to be a sport, not work? your backbone ides is right on, most rods have a 2nd to 3rd eye for the backbones on the rods, other then seeker or calstar to mention my rods of choice,
Great info. Thanks brother!
What rod reaction do you recommend
If the rod is in the rodholder when the fish strikes like live bait, cutbait or trolling I go super slow action. If I’m holding the rod at strike I like faster actions.
@@MikeSmedleyOLDSCHOOLSTRIPERS so for a rod that would be used for jigging spoons, what would you recommend? I'm looking at the catch the fever rods. As I already have their hellcat series
Wouldn't it be true that if the backbone is 10-17lbs, then 10lb line should be the minimum size line you use?
You really have more leeway than that, (a rod rated down to 10lb usually only needs 3-4 lbs of drag to get thru the backbone) but that’s a good rule of thumb, sure.👍👍.
Do you still use the striper stealth rods?
Absolutely! They are predominantly live and cut bait rods. Some trollinhThey are excellent for that use!
First! BAM!!!
Wa POW! 😁
This would be great info, if I could actually catch fish…
I moved to NC 29 years ago. I fished a Striper lake close to my house and fished over 15 straight full days without a single bite. It was probably another 30-40 days before I could catch them regularly. Actually because there was nobody willing to help me out I made the decision right then to share everything I learned on video one day. True story. 🤷🏻♂️
@@MikeSmedleyOLDSCHOOLSTRIPERS it’s much appreciated brother
🙏🙏
So the drag don’t have numbers ,so how do you know how much to tie your drag?make video.
I will definitely do that. Thanks for the feedback.
Have someone hold the end of your line or attach the hook to a rod holder and pull the rod up. Start by tightening the drag most of the way and bend the rod to the backbone by pulling up on it. Slowly loosen drag until it pays out with the rod still bent. Once it starts to pay out you’re all set. 👍👍
@@MikeSmedleyOLDSCHOOLSTRIPERS thanks.
So show us how to do it please
Sure. I’ll post a follow up👍
Snapping necks and breaking rods.
Snapping rods and breaking necks.
@@MikeSmedleyOLDSCHOOLSTRIPERS lol yup. You touch’a my rod I break’a yo face. Hahaha
Kinda tricky when your customers are the ones handling your equipment. I’d rather have a break than watching the reel go overboard. I’m sure y’all take every precaution
Excellent tips…clear n concise!
Thanks brother!! 🙏🙏🙏😁