Look up a "fly-back" diode. The stored magnetic field in the relay is collapsing when you open the switch. The magnetic energy built up in the coil builds the voltage until if bridges the gap and collapses the energy store. Its this voltage spike that is back feeding into the signal wire. The diode in place allows a path for the energy to go, and essentially uses the resistance of the coil, and drop across the diode to use up the energy, so it doesn't voltage spike.
@@LostDeadSoul whilst the subframe has rust on it for sure it’s only surface. The majority of the bodywork on the underside of transit is covered in this few millimetre thick rubber like material.
@@MispronouncedAdventures Yes, that was that diode. It makes the current in the coil free wheel so to say. Yeah ok. I have just seen a few cars without the chassis protection and they are eaten up by rust at age 12-16. But then again i'm from the faroe islands and there sea salt is everywhere.
@@MispronouncedAdventures Forgot to answer about the relays' diode. I have seen diodes on relays on more sensitive electronics. The inductive spike from a relay will easily fry a micro processor. Just think of the whine in some DIY car stereos. Turn up the volume and press the gas pedal and hear the engine rev. That is the generator windings generating a voltage which is passed all of a sudden when the voltage reaches 13,6 volts. That all of a sudden current spike is charging the battery at 200 amps for some micro seconds at 13,7 volts(The voltages mentioned are somewhat factual and have many other factors involved, but this is a general outline). and THAT makes a TIC in the stereo at 3 * 3 * Engine RPM resulting in a whine. Cars are usually full of them. Relays, ignition coils, electric motors and the generator. So a good filter is needed for every thing in a car so it can function flawlessly. Having basic electronic knowledge will go a long way.
Great video .. except for tape measure instead of fish tape / draw tape. To me the edges of tape measure are too thin / knife like to be used for pulling cable. Do agree with you pulling an extra wire that can be used for cable pull in future. Really like your guides and tutorials!! Very educational!!
I’ve used pipe pullers like fish tape before when conduit. The specific area I was running here is a cavity. I find anything without structure just drops down.
Thanks for the video. Worth knowing that back EMF caused by the coil on the relay can be big enough to destroy some solid state devices (It is not a problem with older technology which is why most relays don't have diodes...) Paul
I had the same issue when I converted my SRX Cafe Racer to LED indicators - a diode did the trick - In my CNC I used Opto isolated relay so the spikes from the heavy motor and extracted don't challenge the subtle singles that feed the 4 stepper motor amplifiers - it's back emf from the coils the change in magnetic flux induces a spike - good quality motor relays do come with diodes which effectively capture the pulse and send it back round the coil until it dissipates.
Cheers. Not really bothered about a skid plate for this van ( maybe the next 4WD one ) don’t think In day years with it ive taken it anywhere to warrant it and I don’t think ive even hit the sub frame of anything. Although it might have made life easier, so the time as I buried the van under side deep in even snow
Yeah I'm of a similar opinion but was mainly thinking of reducing the exposure to salt and corrosion from the roads. Maybe that's just a Scottish problem!
I have something similar to fish tape for my rooting in conduits but I don’t find it very helpful for circumstances like the one I showed. As it coiled it doesn’t seem to run in open air very well/Support itself.
Yet another great video. Just one thing you may be able to help we with is - the multi entry junction box on your roof with entry to the inside of the van, where did you get it from please?
It’s just a standard 10-way outdoor junction box off Amazon and then I’ve drilled a 40mm hole in the bottom of it and in the roof and used a 40mm waste water pipe bulkhead connector to connect them. it’s a brilliantly simple solution
Top vid..gotta say electrics are my absolute nemesis 😂 being colour blind doesn’t help either 🤷🏻♂️ nice bar on the front 👌🏻 looks smart at night with the lights on 🤘🏻
In this video no, my friend and subscriber during the first part of the video. Random car during the second part. but I will be packed up with Adz in the next few
Well, that wasn’t the root cause of the issue. I did consider that. I did test that later on and I didn’t find any continuity at a later date. But that could well have been a correct
Van is always getting better! Looking at buying a van to convert myself now. If you had to do it again would you get an ex Sainsburys fridgebox van (true blue style) or your one for the cold? Struggling to decide between the two.
Thank you very much. Currently looking at buying another van. Will be a Ford Transit again only a AWD version. I prefer the panel van look over the human box. In the cold with really with the heating system doesn’t really make much difference. Both are insulated just in different ways. Although mine was probably had more insulated than the fridge box. But overall both are easy to keep warm m
Makes sense, I suppose a small space like a van is fairly easy to heat so super insulating it might not be worth it! Good luck with the new van. Keen to see it.
I have the same issue - I make a complex wiring thing… then six months later forget what all the bits do… so now I label all the things. Seems OTT until you come back to it later and not need to reverse engineer your own work :-) I do the label printer covered with clear heat shrink to make it neat and durable. Also. Thought of using reusable cable ties? Comes in handy when you want to add summat!
That system was somewhat noted down in my phone, but I’d be built upon so many times I knew it all did just not necessarily which relay was which. I did actually have a Labelmaker on the original system, but then I used a heat gun to do some heat shrink and since label makers are heat activated paper I turned all the nicely printed labels black 😂 I do have some larger reusable cable ties, but I find for the really small cable ties. It’s just easier with one time use
Was your heat gun tape TZe? Brother TZe printer tape is UV and Heat resistant. Used by sailors for marking outside kit. I have found it fends off heat gun heat well (to an upper limit) and is easy to put under clear heat shrink without it blackening.
I had a alarm that I fitted to my fiesta years ago. Whenever you set the alarm it would sound the horn in a very comical fashion. Maybe I just needed and diode
are you mentioning the main light bar plug to the wiring harness? If yes then Indeed I was ( which I mentioned in the video ) , the plastic clip snapped off the plug was allowed backwards. I later fixed.
@MispronouncedAdventuresiy was reference the flashing. I think you got to the bottom of the issue. I've had LEDs illuminate as they were wired wrong. Your setup looks good.
Will your alternator be powerful enough to handle these extra loads ? I guess in your next build you will install a separate 48 Volt alternator to charge the house batteries ? These things will take some HP away from the engine and increase fuel consumption, but it is still the best way to charge batteries. Solar is completely useless in campers with a descent battery bank.
There isn’t any load on my alternator from the lights. It’s all powered from the leisure battery system, it’s only around 300W even with the all the fronts on and the DCDC chargers recharge the leisure bank at around 700 to 800watt when the engine is running. My van has a reasonably large alternator anyway at 220A. With an 800W load running off the alternator when driving. It’s only around a 5% increase in engine load. The OBD/ reader on my dash which I don’t think you seen this video gives me a percentage of current engine load. You can see it drop when the engine when the DCDC chargers off. Next van, however will be going 48 V leisure system however are we sticking with a 12V alternator and using a bi-directional Safiery Scotty 12-48 3KW DCDC charger. dual alternator kits for European engines or at least my transit not really used. I would actually disagree on Solar being useless ( in the Arctic it is ) a large capacity battery bank is useless if you can’t recharge it. This van has a 500W amount of solar which in normal summertime spring to autumn keeps me charged up every day easily.
It’s a few drips daily, the overall coolant capacity is 11.5L if I remember. the reason I haven’t fixed it is the connection which leaks is very hard to get too. I’d need to take the bumper off to get there.
![Toyota Camry - Intermittent No Start, Backfiring, Runs Good When it Starts [Part 2]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/5kKc77H6RGg/mqdefault.jpg)
Look up a "fly-back" diode. The stored magnetic field in the relay is collapsing when you open the switch. The magnetic energy built up in the coil builds the voltage until if bridges the gap and collapses the energy store. Its this voltage spike that is back feeding into the signal wire. The diode in place allows a path for the energy to go, and essentially uses the resistance of the coil, and drop across the diode to use up the energy, so it doesn't voltage spike.
Jup. That is it. Indeed.
And why use all that time making it a nice van when it will not fare well without chassis and undercoat protection?
Assume that’s the diode I was given to use in the end? And the type of diode some relays have built-in?
Enjoyable learning process during this video
@@LostDeadSoul whilst the subframe has rust on it for sure it’s only surface. The majority of the bodywork on the underside of transit is covered in this few millimetre thick rubber like material.
@@MispronouncedAdventures Yes, that was that diode. It makes the current in the coil free wheel so to say.
Yeah ok. I have just seen a few cars without the chassis protection and they are eaten up by rust at age 12-16. But then again i'm from the faroe islands and there sea salt is everywhere.
@@MispronouncedAdventures Forgot to answer about the relays' diode.
I have seen diodes on relays on more sensitive electronics. The inductive spike from a relay will easily fry a micro processor. Just think of the whine in some DIY car stereos. Turn up the volume and press the gas pedal and hear the engine rev. That is the generator windings generating a voltage which is passed all of a sudden when the voltage reaches 13,6 volts. That all of a sudden current spike is charging the battery at 200 amps for some micro seconds at 13,7 volts(The voltages mentioned are somewhat factual and have many other factors involved, but this is a general outline). and THAT makes a TIC in the stereo at 3 * 3 * Engine RPM resulting in a whine.
Cars are usually full of them. Relays, ignition coils, electric motors and the generator. So a good filter is needed for every thing in a car so it can function flawlessly.
Having basic electronic knowledge will go a long way.
You need swicth the lowest ligth Bar to an better one with new Styled lens 😮 and Park light
Oh you bougth some, i didn’t watch the full video yet 😅
I am also planning to swap the bottom one out to a similar light bar
Great video .. except for tape measure instead of fish tape / draw tape. To me the edges of tape measure are too thin / knife like to be used for pulling cable. Do agree with you pulling an extra wire that can be used for cable pull in future.
Really like your guides and tutorials!! Very educational!!
I’ve used pipe pullers like fish tape before when conduit. The specific area I was running here is a cavity. I find anything without structure just drops down.
That last bit about the guys drone has made me excited for the next episode to see what happens! I doubt you’ll find it! But good luck
Oh I think he will!!
We can only try!
You bugger! Adding in all those 'balmys'. I've got to be up for work in the morning! 🤪😂
Happy to help!
Thanks for the video. Worth knowing that back EMF caused by the coil on the relay can be big enough to destroy some solid state devices (It is not a problem with older technology which is why most relays don't have diodes...) Paul
Definitely a learning curve
Another belter episode, mate. Thanks again. Amazed about your stamina to keep working outside in such hostile environment. Kudos to you.
Glad you enjoyed the episode
It’s great to see your upgrades and your wiring methods and not to forget your logical way of thinking.
Thanks!
Brilliant top tape tip Alex and the lights look superb. And off to help out a mate out 300 miles away. A true gent
Always gent and always happy to help
Another ace video Alex 👍
Cheers!
Love all the constant upgrades 🤣 My cousin's kid is now at Everest Base Camp, they abandoned the North Approach along with some other teams this year.
Always love my upgrades! Congrats to them reaching EBC even if it not the side they wanted.
I had the same issue when I converted my SRX Cafe Racer to LED indicators - a diode did the trick - In my CNC I used Opto isolated relay so the spikes from the heavy motor and extracted don't challenge the subtle singles that feed the 4 stepper motor amplifiers - it's back emf from the coils the change in magnetic flux induces a spike - good quality motor relays do come with diodes which effectively capture the pulse and send it back round the coil until it dissipates.
Definitely a learning curve dealing with EMF. New issue for me to consider in the future.
Great one Alex 👌
Thank you!
Nice upgrades. I'm always surprised at how exposed the underside of the engine is. Have you ever considered getting a skid plate / cover?
Cheers.
Not really bothered about a skid plate for this van ( maybe the next 4WD one ) don’t think In day years with it ive taken it anywhere to warrant it and I don’t think ive even hit the sub frame of anything.
Although it might have made life easier, so the time as I buried the van under side deep in even snow
Yeah I'm of a similar opinion but was mainly thinking of reducing the exposure to salt and corrosion from the roads. Maybe that's just a Scottish problem!
ah I see. No salt used in the arctic. It’s too cold for it. Just crushed rock used
Excellent episode mate. Can I suggest you try using a "fish tape" for the cable routing
I have something similar to fish tape for my rooting in conduits but I don’t find it very helpful for circumstances like the one I showed. As it coiled it doesn’t seem to run in open air very well/Support itself.
Yet another great video. Just one thing you may be able to help we with is - the multi entry junction box on your roof with entry to the inside of the van, where did you get it from please?
It’s just a standard 10-way outdoor junction box off Amazon and then I’ve drilled a 40mm hole in the bottom of it and in the roof and used a 40mm waste water pipe bulkhead connector to connect them. it’s a brilliantly simple solution
@@MispronouncedAdventures many thanks for the quick reply. Safe travels
Yep back emf, use a diode. Use a in reverse polarity across the coil. Sends EMF to the deck.
OK kept watching and you have done it..... Electronics hate back emf. Causes big problems with collapsing fields. Great videos keep up the good work.
Fun learning process that’s for sure when doing new circuits to consider.
Great installation documentation as usual. 👍
Definitely a bit of a different install video doing it in -25
12:34, And now I'm legless. Cheers!
Excellent!
The pull string is a good idea, how has your van been doing when it comes to moisture and mold?
Moisture and mold has never been an issue in the van. Especially in the arctic it’s so dry anyway.
If I could I would go rescue a drone too:)
I do my best
Top vid..gotta say electrics are my absolute nemesis 😂 being colour blind doesn’t help either 🤷🏻♂️ nice bar on the front 👌🏻 looks smart at night with the lights on 🤘🏻
Thank you I’m definitely happy with the new bar. On the electric front, understandable some people love it, some people hate it
Were you parked up next to the Pigeon, (Adz)?
In this video no, my friend and subscriber during the first part of the video. Random car during the second part.
but I will be packed up with Adz in the next few
Really good video, top tips and great skills ... I loved watching you bail out adz, you're a top man!
Glad you enjoyed the video the next few videos coming up will be with Adz. His timeline for video release was quite a good chunk quicker than mine
Do you think the light bar is grounding inside?
Well, that wasn’t the root cause of the issue. I did consider that. I did test that later on and I didn’t find any continuity at a later date. But that could well have been a correct
Good to see you this weekend buddy, take care and safe travels
It was a good weekend that’s for sure!
@@MispronouncedAdventures 💯
Van is always getting better! Looking at buying a van to convert myself now. If you had to do it again would you get an ex Sainsburys fridgebox van (true blue style) or your one for the cold? Struggling to decide between the two.
Thank you very much. Currently looking at buying another van. Will be a Ford Transit again only a AWD version. I prefer the panel van look over the human box. In the cold with really with the heating system doesn’t really make much difference. Both are insulated just in different ways. Although mine was probably had more insulated than the fridge box. But overall both are easy to keep warm m
Makes sense, I suppose a small space like a van is fairly easy to heat so super insulating it might not be worth it! Good luck with the new van. Keen to see it.
Phew! and what a good man you are helping a mate out.seem to remember you also got his van out of a snow drift well done.👍
I did a lot of helping with Adz! He’s a good lad, great to just spend time with him
I have the same issue - I make a complex wiring thing… then six months later forget what all the bits do… so now I label all the things. Seems OTT until you come back to it later and not need to reverse engineer your own work :-)
I do the label printer covered with clear heat shrink to make it neat and durable.
Also. Thought of using reusable cable ties? Comes in handy when you want to add summat!
That system was somewhat noted down in my phone, but I’d be built upon so many times I knew it all did just not necessarily which relay was which.
I did actually have a Labelmaker on the original system, but then I used a heat gun to do some heat shrink and since label makers are heat activated paper I turned all the nicely printed labels black 😂
I do have some larger reusable cable ties, but I find for the really small cable ties. It’s just easier with one time use
Was your heat gun tape TZe? Brother TZe printer tape is UV and Heat resistant. Used by sailors for marking outside kit. I have found it fends off heat gun heat well (to an upper limit) and is easy to put under clear heat shrink without it blackening.
👍👍👍
👍
There is a diy garage in Rovaniemi, no more frost bites🤔
Where about?
I had a alarm that I fitted to my fiesta years ago. Whenever you set the alarm it would sound the horn in a very comical fashion. Maybe I just needed and diode
Could well be
Is it, the LEDs are wired the wrong way round?
are you mentioning the main light bar plug to the wiring harness? If yes then Indeed I was ( which I mentioned in the video ) , the plastic clip snapped off the plug was allowed backwards. I later fixed.
Actually, I’m not sure if that was in this video the last one which specific moment do you mean?
@MispronouncedAdventuresiy was reference the flashing. I think you got to the bottom of the issue. I've had LEDs illuminate as they were wired wrong. Your setup looks good.
Will your alternator be powerful enough to handle these extra loads ? I guess in your next build you will install a separate 48 Volt alternator to charge the house batteries ? These things will take some HP away from the engine and increase fuel consumption, but it is still the best way to charge batteries. Solar is completely useless in campers with a descent battery bank.
There isn’t any load on my alternator from the lights. It’s all powered from the leisure battery system, it’s only around 300W even with the all the fronts on and the DCDC chargers recharge the leisure bank at around 700 to 800watt when the engine is running. My van has a reasonably large alternator anyway at 220A.
With an 800W load running off the alternator when driving. It’s only around a 5% increase in engine load. The OBD/ reader on my dash which I don’t think you seen this video gives me a percentage of current engine load. You can see it drop when the engine when the DCDC chargers off.
Next van, however will be going 48 V leisure system however are we sticking with a 12V alternator and using a bi-directional Safiery Scotty 12-48 3KW DCDC charger. dual alternator kits for European engines or at least my transit not really used.
I would actually disagree on Solar being useless ( in the Arctic it is ) a large capacity battery bank is useless if you can’t recharge it. This van has a 500W amount of solar which in normal summertime spring to autumn keeps me charged up every day easily.
❤❤❤❤❤💯💯💯💯💯👍👍👍👍👍
Cheers
Why not fix the coolant leak. Thats more likely to leave you stranded .
It’s a few drips daily, the overall coolant capacity is 11.5L if I remember.
the reason I haven’t fixed it is the connection which leaks is very hard to get too. I’d need to take the bumper off to get there.
@@MispronouncedAdventures Fair enough. Though I have no idea why you wouldn't want to lie under a leaky transit in -19C. 😆
👍🚐😎
Cheers 👍
1
Indeed you were!