Click (Read more) at the bottom of this comment. Don't forget to like, subscribe, and hit the notification bell for more DIY projects and heating solutions! Thank you very much for watching and God bless. ✅Diesel heater I installed in my video amzn.to/4f5Gqwz 15% discount code：JimsReview15 ✅All in one Diesel heater amzn.to/48dpzWc ✅My Amazon store. www.amazon.com/shop/diyjim
People have had long term success diluting used oil with kerosene. Another key is to start the heater with kerosene and once it gets hot, switch to the kerosene - oil mixture. Before shutting it off, switch to kerosene only for 5-10 minutes. Doing these things will give you the best chance of not clogging the burn chamber. You have to set a a switch before the filter so you can easily switch between kerosene and used oil mixture.
this is cool you posted this type of heater...there was another guy a few years ago online talking about a diesel heater like this and my friend of mine talked about how it would work....obviously it does for you. I recently lucked out and got a propane radiant heater giving to me so I rigged it instead , runs on propane and works wonderfully. Best thing ive ever heated with. BUT if i wouldnt of lucked out this was next in line...thanks for the content.
David McLuckie has done an entire series on what used motor oil does to a diesel parking heater. The short story is the burn chamber gets entirely clogged up with nastiness after not very long at all. There are additives in motor oil which don't burn completely and they tend to build up exactly where you don't want them to.
@@DIYJIM You can always disassemble it and clean it out, but it'll gum up the ignition element too and it'll eventually need to be replaced. Might be more trouble than it's worth in my opinion.
Just replace the $10 glow plug & $2 screen, it takes all of 5 mins if that. & don't use diesel use gas & add something like injector cleaner for a better complete burn. Lucas brand for example helps clean them out. Also it works better if you run diesel on start up & shut off for about 10 mins so have duel tanks T'ed in with shut off valves. I run the additive in my all diesel heater when it gets too cakes instead of cleaning it out. It works. Also the heaters that let you turn the settings are needed, the other one works but it floods the machine easy if your not playing with it blocking part of the air flow to help it heat up - that's where the diesel at start up is better for it. I found when I needed to clean one I just spray it with brake cleaner & let it sit then spray it out, the rest can burn off. It's a burn chamber after all. It's all about getting that complete burn & since diesel is already a % of oil the combustion points change cause it's tough to ignite straight oil - its gotta be pre heated high. Gas has a lower combustion temperature so gas & oil burns off more complete but still not 100%. A full vehicle serving for cleaning out & a lot less regularly added per tank in between. Try that stuff brother & I know you'll have much better results. Diesel is about 18% fuel, and you only skim from the top of the barrel so the sludge settles to the bottom because the mix has to be mixed up & sit a bit. The more of that sludge your machine burns, the worst it cakes up. Since your making a fuel with waste, dont skip the refining process - even if it is skimming the lighter/cleaner stuff off the top without any bedsheet filtering. I strain my oil through stainers with cheese cloth between 2 so I get as much big stuff like metal out - which is another key thing. There is a bit of a science to it but it can be done, One guy claimed when using the fuel addtive for a complete burn that after a year his machine was still fairly clean for what it was burning. Fuel sitting in -30c makes a difference too, it has to be thin & diesel gels, oil get thicker. Gas stay roughly the same, just gotta add water remover.
I've seen a lot of people mostly from the UK try this and usually same result, use then take apart to clean up or replace. I've been using my Hcalory for two years in my cargo trailer and have zero problems using just plain diesel.
I would burn some oil mix then some diesel to help keep the burn chamber clean ,The best thing is to filter it very good, it filters easier by thinning the oil first.
If you go with fresh used oil straight out of the engine into a clean container let it sit for a few days and only use about 5 -10 % max oil/ diesel and run it on high you'll never have a problem. Cummins 12 valve engines are authorized to burn up to 20% used oil mix. After that you get some hazing. 5 to 10% is the safe zone.
Maybe run a 2 to 1 ratio of diesel and used oil for the benefit of the filter. Would be nice to run it long term on the mixed fuel and then do an update.
This is awesome. I have the same "generic" heater inside of the Vevor diesel heater. I am going to post some vids on it soon. If I may ask, I am new to RUclips, coming from TikTok, for fear of "banning" possibility. I have no idea how monetization works, but you mentioned how well it's going for you, I figured I'd ask.
I have run one for 2 years and replaced it this summer. On my new one I will only use diesel. First year on my last one I bought it for the same purpose of heating my workshop with old car oil. It burned at around 210 Celsius at first then after about 2 hours of run time it was in the 180's with the exhaust pipe glowing. After cleaning the burn chamber, I could not get past 200 degrees. I then ran a mixture of Jet A and road diesel. Second winter I burned 30 gallons of a mixture of 4 1/2 gallons of turbine engine oil with 2 1/2 gallons g old car gas, 1.5 gallons of alcohol, 10 gallons of Jet A and the rest road diesel. The little unit was burning around 186 for most of the winter. After 20 gallons burnt, I had to clean the chamber and was surprised that it was mostly ash in there and not the gummy coke as the winter before. The last 10 gallons the unit would not get above 150 Celsius. That is why I replaced it for this winter. I have done a test run and the new unit on 1 year old road diesel was at 208 Celsius in the burn chamber. Also, for heat recovery I bought the longest exhaust pipe available last winter for the unit. While not as efficient as plumbing it through an old steam radiator (which are not available in my area) it does add a bit of convective heat to the shop. And on my runs last winter and the test for this one the outside output of the wall was less then 100 F.
To properly burn oil you need a burner with a pressurised fuel system with high pressure nozzle. More typical for the larger 16 and up kilowatt water heaters from Eberspächer and Webasto/Spheros. The Chinese 16+ kw units doesn't have this ....
You're single biggest issue is going to be carbon build up. There is a small mesh screen at the very end of the diesel feeding tube, if not filtered correctly it'll plug that, and if there's too much carbon it'll cover the glow plug, and there's the carbon build up in your exhaust pipe, if you're fine with tearing it all down and doing a simple clean up, it'll run just fine
The main problem with the burn chamber is there is another screen which you cannot see that will get clogged with the oil additives and junk. When that screen clog's up there is no way to clean it, and the burn efficiency suffers.
If you are not confident about servicing the equipment stay away from dirty oil it will cut the life span of your glow plug and bring servicing forward. I understand that most of us using the cdh are a bit handy and can do this ourselves. But having to switch between desiel to clean out the chamber is frankly a pain and in most case will not be approached properly. Kerosene is 50p a ltr and is far better and cleaner for your environment. I have never seen after prolonged use of dirty oil (seeing as you did not filter it properly it is dirty) Lead to anything other than overheat due to poor running , higher temp from the actual equipment and in the end after this a return to clean fuel. It's now been done to deaf so my advice is use red desiel or home heating oil the the heater will give you hours and hours of straight forward use.
The used oil will be filtered by your vehicles oil filter better than any tshirt, so that's wasted effort. If it's from a small engine, just let it sit for a week until the sediment drops. If it's old french fry oil, then sure, use a tshirt. Cheers... but NOT with Lucky lol
The people that make these videos never show you what happens after period of course used motor oil will burn, that's just common knowledge. But what does it do to your machine especially if you were dumb enough to spend money on an age calorie when a cheap Chinese knockoff can be gotten for $35?I'll tell you what it does, it destroys it. In order to rectify you have to take the entire apparatus apart and manually scrape the burn chamber. That's what used motor oil actually does. Your machine will error out every time you try to Start itch. Cold outside , which would be the reason you're turning on your heater, I hope you have a backup if you listen to this guy. I recommend, you don't.
Click (Read more) at the bottom of this comment.
Don't forget to like, subscribe, and hit the notification bell for more DIY projects and heating solutions!
Thank you very much for watching and God bless.
✅Diesel heater I installed in my video amzn.to/4f5Gqwz
15% discount code：JimsReview15
✅All in one Diesel heater amzn.to/48dpzWc
✅My Amazon store. www.amazon.com/shop/diyjim
People have had long term success diluting used oil with kerosene. Another key is to start the heater with kerosene and once it gets hot, switch to the kerosene - oil mixture. Before shutting it off, switch to kerosene only for 5-10 minutes. Doing these things will give you the best chance of not clogging the burn chamber. You have to set a a switch before the filter so you can easily switch between kerosene and used oil mixture.
Good tip! Thanks for sharing.
Kerosene in my area (Arkansas) is $12.00 a gallon. I have been looking for red diesel. Should be around $3.00 a gallon.
this is cool you posted this type of heater...there was another guy a few years ago online talking about a diesel heater like this and my friend of mine talked about how it would work....obviously it does for you. I recently lucked out and got a propane radiant heater giving to me so I rigged it instead , runs on propane and works wonderfully. Best thing ive ever heated with. BUT if i wouldnt of lucked out this was next in line...thanks for the content.
Thanks for watching, so far it is working awesome
David McLuckie has done an entire series on what used motor oil does to a diesel parking heater. The short story is the burn chamber gets entirely clogged up with nastiness after not very long at all. There are additives in motor oil which don't burn completely and they tend to build up exactly where you don't want them to.
So maybe I better stop burning used oil in it if I want it to last. Thanks for the info.
@@DIYJIM You can always disassemble it and clean it out, but it'll gum up the ignition element too and it'll eventually need to be replaced. Might be more trouble than it's worth in my opinion.
Came here to say this, but NoelBarlau said it much better than I could have.
Just replace the $10 glow plug & $2 screen, it takes all of 5 mins if that. & don't use diesel use gas & add something like injector cleaner for a better complete burn. Lucas brand for example helps clean them out. Also it works better if you run diesel on start up & shut off for about 10 mins so have duel tanks T'ed in with shut off valves. I run the additive in my all diesel heater when it gets too cakes instead of cleaning it out. It works. Also the heaters that let you turn the settings are needed, the other one works but it floods the machine easy if your not playing with it blocking part of the air flow to help it heat up - that's where the diesel at start up is better for it. I found when I needed to clean one I just spray it with brake cleaner & let it sit then spray it out, the rest can burn off. It's a burn chamber after all. It's all about getting that complete burn & since diesel is already a % of oil the combustion points change cause it's tough to ignite straight oil - its gotta be pre heated high. Gas has a lower combustion temperature so gas & oil burns off more complete but still not 100%. A full vehicle serving for cleaning out & a lot less regularly added per tank in between. Try that stuff brother & I know you'll have much better results. Diesel is about 18% fuel, and you only skim from the top of the barrel so the sludge settles to the bottom because the mix has to be mixed up & sit a bit. The more of that sludge your machine burns, the worst it cakes up. Since your making a fuel with waste, dont skip the refining process - even if it is skimming the lighter/cleaner stuff off the top without any bedsheet filtering. I strain my oil through stainers with cheese cloth between 2 so I get as much big stuff like metal out - which is another key thing. There is a bit of a science to it but it can be done, One guy claimed when using the fuel addtive for a complete burn that after a year his machine was still fairly clean for what it was burning. Fuel sitting in -30c makes a difference too, it has to be thin & diesel gels, oil get thicker. Gas stay roughly the same, just gotta add water remover.
I've seen a lot of people mostly from the UK try this and usually same result, use then take apart to clean up or replace. I've been using my Hcalory for two years in my cargo trailer and have zero problems using just plain diesel.
God bless you and your family
thank you very much
I would burn some oil mix then some diesel to help keep the burn chamber clean ,The best thing is to filter it very good, it filters easier by thinning the oil first.
Good idea I think I will try that. Thanks for watching!
If you go with fresh used oil straight out of the engine into a clean container let it sit for a few days and only use about 5 -10 % max oil/ diesel and run it on high you'll never have a problem. Cummins 12 valve engines are authorized to burn up to 20% used oil mix. After that you get some hazing. 5 to 10% is the safe zone.
Thanks for the tip! Thanks for watching
Maybe run a 2 to 1 ratio of diesel and used oil for the benefit of the filter. Would be nice to run it long term on the mixed fuel and then do an update.
I think I will take it apart after I burn some fuel through it. Thanks for watching
I think as long as you keep the heater on high you’ll have less issues.
This is awesome. I have the same "generic" heater inside of the Vevor diesel heater. I am going to post some vids on it soon. If I may ask, I am new to RUclips, coming from TikTok, for fear of "banning" possibility. I have no idea how monetization works, but you mentioned how well it's going for you, I figured I'd ask.
Thanks for watching, I'm happy to help. send me an e-mail with your number I'll try to find time to give you a call
@@DIYJIM Thanks so much!
If I may make a suggestion please.
Only do that in the emergency.
Just by some fuel.
thanks for the info and thanks for watching
How long do you think the fuel filter will last?
Sorry no clue I guess it depends on how dirty your fuel is. Thanks for watching
I have run one for 2 years and replaced it this summer. On my new one I will only use diesel. First year on my last one I bought it for the same purpose of heating my workshop with old car oil. It burned at around 210 Celsius at first then after about 2 hours of run time it was in the 180's with the exhaust pipe glowing. After cleaning the burn chamber, I could not get past 200 degrees. I then ran a mixture of Jet A and road diesel. Second winter I burned 30 gallons of a mixture of 4 1/2 gallons of turbine engine oil with 2 1/2 gallons g old car gas, 1.5 gallons of alcohol, 10 gallons of Jet A and the rest road diesel. The little unit was burning around 186 for most of the winter. After 20 gallons burnt, I had to clean the chamber and was surprised that it was mostly ash in there and not the gummy coke as the winter before. The last 10 gallons the unit would not get above 150 Celsius. That is why I replaced it for this winter. I have done a test run and the new unit on 1 year old road diesel was at 208 Celsius in the burn chamber. Also, for heat recovery I bought the longest exhaust pipe available last winter for the unit. While not as efficient as plumbing it through an old steam radiator (which are not available in my area) it does add a bit of convective heat to the shop. And on my runs last winter and the test for this one the outside output of the wall was less then 100 F.
Thanks for the information, very interesting!
Mine jest smokes on red fuel. Any ideas
Really not sure sorry, thanks for watching
Have you checked out the inside of the burn chamber?
not yet, thanks for watching
Would like to see a cold start on used motor oil. I don't want to see you tear up your heater though.
I will show that next video with the exhaust at the same time.
To properly burn oil you need a burner with a pressurised fuel system with high pressure nozzle.
More typical for the larger 16 and up kilowatt water heaters from Eberspächer and Webasto/Spheros. The Chinese 16+ kw units doesn't have this ....
thanks for watching
The atomizer will get clogged a lot faster with the used moter oil.
thanks for watching, another guy told me the same thing maybe I should not burn used oil.
Where is the atomizer that you speak of? These heaters use a wicking system.
I just used almost 10 gallons of oil on my deck, I need more oil changes cause I still need to do the rails and posts.
Thanks for watching.
Seems like I saw something on RUclips where a guy used a wick to transfer and clean dirty oil from one container to another.
I’ll do some searching…
Let me know if you find anything. Thanks for watching
You're single biggest issue is going to be carbon build up. There is a small mesh screen at the very end of the diesel feeding tube, if not filtered correctly it'll plug that, and if there's too much carbon it'll cover the glow plug, and there's the carbon build up in your exhaust pipe, if you're fine with tearing it all down and doing a simple clean up, it'll run just fine
Yes it will run on it - but not for long. You will see.
Thanks for watching
The main problem with the burn chamber is there is another screen which you cannot see that will get clogged with the oil additives and junk. When that screen clog's up there is no way to clean it, and the burn efficiency suffers.
Good to know, thanks for watching.
Seems to me you like to put garbages in everything ... Used car oil in your heater and Lucky streak in your body!🤣🤣🤣🤣 . Cheers man !!!
thanks for watching
Probably uses same method to convert cooking oil to bio diesel
Thanks for watching.
If you are not confident about servicing the equipment stay away from dirty oil it will cut the life span of your glow plug and bring servicing forward.
I understand that most of us using the cdh are a bit handy and can do this ourselves.
But having to switch between desiel to clean out the chamber is frankly a pain and in most case will not be approached properly.
Kerosene is 50p a ltr and is far better and cleaner for your environment.
I have never seen after prolonged use of dirty oil (seeing as you did not filter it properly it is dirty)
Lead to anything other than overheat due to poor running , higher temp from the actual equipment and in the end after this a return to clean fuel.
It's now been done to deaf so my advice is use red desiel or home heating oil the the heater will give you hours and hours of straight forward use.
Thanks for watching and for the info
The used oil will be filtered by your vehicles oil filter better than any tshirt, so that's wasted effort. If it's from a small engine, just let it sit for a week until the sediment drops. If it's old french fry oil, then sure, use a tshirt. Cheers... but NOT with Lucky lol
Thanks for the tip and thanks for watching
@@DIYJIM xo
Consider me subscribed
Thank you for subscribing
Try used cooking oil instead.
Maybe I will try that thanks for watching
I'm burning veg oil and diesel here in mine. 2 pumps feeding one heater using a fuel signal tweaker. Video on my page.
The people that make these videos never show you what happens after period of course used motor oil will burn, that's just common knowledge. But what does it do to your machine especially if you were dumb enough to spend money on an age calorie when a cheap Chinese knockoff can be gotten for $35?I'll tell you what it does, it destroys it. In order to rectify you have to take the entire apparatus apart and manually scrape the burn chamber. That's what used motor oil actually does. Your machine will error out every time you try to Start itch. Cold outside , which would be the reason you're turning on your heater, I hope you have a backup if you listen to this guy. I recommend, you don't.
Thanks for watching and for the good information
It's going to leave a lot of soot on your combustion system. Don't use used engine oil.
Thanks for the tip