Probably the most comprehensive headstock bearing adjustment video I have seen ! Only thing I can add to it is for lathes that run greased bearings ( mini lathes that have had a taper bearing conversion etc ) is to adjust out most of the end float and run the lathe on low for a good 15 min - this lets the grease disperse ( you don’t need a lot of grease either as too much creates drag and heat ) then check end float and re adjust - once you are close to zero run the lathe about mid range to heat soak the spindle and do the last adjustment . Greased bearings will run hotter than oiled bearings especially when you start spinning taper rollers at 2 grand . Finally don’t do what I’d did on my mini lathe and fit lip seals in the bearing shields - the extra heat they generate is astonishing ! Ripper video Max ! Thanks mate !
Pure F*****n brilliance, thanks for sharing your amazing work Max, could watch your videos all day, look forward to next one, cheers and all the best mate.
Gday Max, thank you for showing your way to preload the bearings, on video the sound of the lathe running is much quieter then before, I went back to a previous video to see, great series mate, throughly enjoyed watching, have a great weekend, cheers
This was very helpfull, i´m thinking of making a basic lathe for my shop, and finding out i have still a lot to learn on these machines. Thank you very much!
Really interesting Max. Great watching your skills changing and resetting the bearings. The main bearings are unbelievably cheap to say what precise work they do. Tony
Another "Good work" job Max! Appreciate you and you sharing it with us. Learn something every time I watch one of your videos. Thanks, and Have a goodern!
Nice work Max I’ve really enjoyed this series. That was a bit of a tricky bastards to get the gears back on the spindle. Great information too on setting up the headstock bearings.
Good tutorial on setting bearing pre-load, Max . Much better than the hit or miss technique I used when I replaced my spindle bearings -- will remember that the next time I set the pre-load . Thanks for the info !
This is fantastic. Brilliant solution for pushing that old bearing off. I have a very similar lathe from the early 90s that needs a bearing change, will be using your method. Also the best explanation of how to judge pre-load that i've seen in a vid. Thanks! Also Also, "Re-Nip" has been added to vocabulary. Cheers.
Hi Max Just back from Falcon. No cooler there. As always very straightforward and helpful information. Your considered approach without some of the YT heroics is very refreshing. Peter
I love seeing this kind of shop school. It really amazes me how accurate these machines are. I'll be here when you make the final adjustment in 6 months or so, cheers, 👍👍
Thanks for all the information on bearings and the end play, we're building a lathe from scratch in our shop, was really needing that information, again thanks sir, can't wait to see next video!
G’day Max I’ve been following you for a while now I’m glad that you showed how to do this it will come in handy. It’s true that I always learn something from machinists like yourself I have subscribed Max and look forward to watching the channel. Thanks mate kind regards John
Max, this was a wonderful lesson on adjusting headstock bearings! And, I suspect, _much_ more understandable than what's in the old Timken Engineering Handbook that I inherited when I started working as a Mechanical Engineer in the early '80s. No-one was interested in it when I retired (probably because it wasn't "digital"), so it followed me home.
Nice job Max, got to be happy with the run out and quiet running. I replaced the cheesy gear selector indicators with 1.5 mm aluminium covers, machined to dia and parted off, used Stainless Steel round head drive rivets to show the position.
Great series of videos Max. Thank you for sharing your experience and skill with us. I now have a little less trepidation about doing all of this on my Maximat Super 11once outside temps get to stay above 0 Celsius. It's just been dragged 4,200km across Canada to the Atlantic provinces and awaits re-assembly in my insulated shed workshop.
Great job, nice detailed tutorial on taper roller bearings for axial thrust application, as you say, taper rollers don't like pre-load, the get hot pretty quickly at light or zero loads, heavy loads helps transmit the heat fully with roller contact. Obviously when actually turning, the rear bearing could be flapping about, the rotary friction welding machines I used to install had a spring cartridge on the rear to maintain alignment and gave support to the rear transmission belt drives. Rear bearings are smaller than the front, on bigger machines, the front bearings were double or triple stacked. Sizes ranged from 8" bore inner cone, to 18" diameters. Again, great job,thanks for sharing.
@@swanvalleymachineshop I've been working on RFW since 1989, still great to watch, even when I am doing weld development or for the first time on a new machine or new tooling, can be bum clenching time😵. Can take hours to cut and section the weldments, prep them for a bend test and both macro/microscopy. I've met many in a bar that say it doesn't work, or you can't bond copper to steel to aluminium etc. Is the heat cooling down yet? Best regards John.
Max, given your heatwave at the moment heating the bearing to 100°c will only be 10° higher than in the shop! I like the inventive use of what you have on hand.
I'm impressed with those plain axle bearings that was a good call using those and gears sound fine maybe they lapped themselves together enough they'll run forever, great how to tutorial dude am gonna grease all gaskets now greasier the easier haha
She's sounding great Max. Back to working order. Thanks for sharing the tips. Yeah, its still frikkin cold up here. Send some of that heat our way mate :) Gilles
New Sub here and Thank You for the great content! Excellent thorough presentation of a Job that most of us will tackle at some point whether we choose to or not. Thank You again and look forward to seeing your future videos.
Great video, Max! Was almost late getting to work this morning watching this 🤣. Always need clever ways of pulling stuff apart at my place of employment and anything to do with machine repair these days is infinitely helpful 😁. I noticed how quiet she was running too when you spun her up, well done! If I had 4 thumbs they'd all be up lol. Cheers! 👍👍😁👍👍
That's an incredible result for plain non precision bearings! Only a few micron runout is incredible. For reference I put p5 precision taper roller bearings and had about 4 micron run out on my Wabeco lathe. On my milling machine I put in p4 precision bearings and had 3 micron run out. It looks like you go very lucky with these bearings or timken makes really good bearings.
Lots of great tips Max. I like how you did the preload on the headstock bearings. I need to remember that. Those bearing are much more expensive here in Canada. I use 6203, 6204 and 6205 often. 30211 is $86.14 and 30212 is $94.91. Thats about $95 and $103 Australian. I think I should start to look for a new supplier. Another well done rebuild. Thanks Max
When I did my little Chinese lathe my spindle bearings were in the $80ish to. Methinks you have a better relationship with your bearing supplier than we do, hahaaa!
IR thermometers don't like shiny surfaces. Putting a piece of black tape, electrical tape works great, on any shiny surface will give you a better reading :) Awesome video!
👍Great end to the series Max with lots of great info of what and what not to do. Also, don't forget to put that spindle end cover back on or you'll be making a mess on the shop floor. LOL 🤣
That was a great little series Max 👍 Very in depth with the usual great tips. All thru it I have been thinking " Mine is fine and should not need this for at least 10 years" but after hearing the difference I am now a bit scared 🤣
Hi Max. I considered putting magnets in the top oil channels but decided against it as the bearing drip feed hole might get blocked and ruin the bearing.
Great video series. Not sure if you can edit the video titles, but if you can maybe consider adding the name and model of the lathe in the title so folk can search RUclips to find them in the future :)
The Grizzy manual for similar lathe says tighten nut extra 1/16" clockwise measured at outer circumference of nut after zero end float and zero preload is established. Hope that helps.
Thanks . That would be similar to the last tap using the sharpie marker as a reference on my one . Did that manual say if it was a operating temp adjustment or a cold adjustment ?Cheers .
Hey Max great job your attention to detail is spot on and i learned some new tricks of the trade from watching you video (roller contact ) .I think those bearings will work just fine and i don't think you will go pass there speed rating . I watch some videos and went with the precision ones i have a precision matthews lathe din''t ask them but looked on grizzlys web sight they had one bearing and the price was like $800.00 crooks . The large spindle bearing was hard to find online in NSK made in japan i found one duplex set new old stock so two bearings for $150.00 and found the small one for like $85.00 each got two on EBay for $150.00 going to stick with NSK bearings for the rest standard grind . I don't like chinese bearings to me there rough and noisy . I know this is a long story not a comment I'll try to keep it shorter . Again Thanks a lot for the videos and can't wait for the new shop five thumbs up on your channel .JM
I have never had to do the headstock on a lathe, done a number of other gearboxes and shaft alignments over the years though. I think I'd have put a shaft (a couple of mm clearance) from the tailstock right through the spindle to a decent bracket spaced right back from the drive side. I would have taken the selectors out, no matter the roll pins and would then put all the gears, bushes, circlips etc on over the shaft in order and would then slide the spindle in, not far out of alignment with where its supposed to be. May be overthinking it again, but hey.
I thought some of your headstock looked a bit different to mine. I now know why: yours is a 2 x 3 gears, mine has 2 x 4 gears - all the components look quite similar, but a few things were clearly different, and I couldn't quite tell what it was. Nice work, as usual!
Heat up the bearings, they slip off then, the interference is very small, I just done the bearings in the headstock of my big Kirloskar lathe with new Gamet bearings £3000! and had to make a pair of headstock gears and a little heat was all it took. The spindle has a 4" bore with a D1-11 chuck mount. It's interesting that all modern lathes use the basic design first used by Colchester for the spindle bearings and labyrinth seals. Good video all the same.
Jeebuz, couldn't get over the price of the bearings, I've been pricing spindle bearings for my Hercus 260ATM, and I'm pushing over $500 for the good stuff, just hope I never need to change them. Thank you for this series, Max, I've learned a crapload, it still scares the shit out of me though, really impressed you didn't swear while you were putting the spindle in, either that, or brilliant editing;). Have a good one, Scott.
Thanks for the information Max, will do a run in process with the new bearings ? Thanks again your content is always down to earth and very informative
Look up the Timken website & they have the different specifications for that . There is a difference between grease & oil . I should have down loaded the page when i was looking as it took a while to find . They can run quite warm with no ill effects .
Great series Can you tell me about your drive belt, mine is a solid 25 inch and there is a lot of belt shredding, on my second and I’m just a tinkerer, my pulleys are aligned, I noticed that you have a 27 inch marked on your lathe
Hi again, Ive just gone thro this adjustment procedure works fine. Altho when I push on the head stock casting I get approx 0.0005" of deflection on my indicator is that normal Max ?
Yes . I think you are picking up the headstock & bed flexing on the tin pedestals . I can flex my one a couple of thou by hand . I am planning on building new more solid pedestals for my one . I am planning to do it this winter , hopefully . Cheers 👍
Thanks . Had to pretty much halt progress due to total fire bans , that means no cutting , grinding or welding ! Still hope to have both end walls completed early Feb .
Probably the most comprehensive headstock bearing adjustment video I have seen !
Only thing I can add to it is for lathes that run greased bearings ( mini lathes that have had a taper bearing conversion etc ) is to adjust out most of the end float and run the lathe on low for a good 15 min - this lets the grease disperse ( you don’t need a lot of grease either as too much creates drag and heat ) then check end float and re adjust - once you are close to zero run the lathe about mid range to heat soak the spindle and do the last adjustment . Greased bearings will run hotter than oiled bearings especially when you start spinning taper rollers at 2 grand . Finally don’t do what I’d did on my mini lathe and fit lip seals in the bearing shields - the extra heat they generate is astonishing !
Ripper video Max ! Thanks mate !
You are spot on with the heat generated by lip seals , it's surprising .
Excellent mini-series - Really appreciate all of your efforts to get these videos produced. I learned quite a bit. Thank you
No worries , Thanks 👍
Really nice camera angles on the Lady ," I mean Lathe ," LOL . Very interesting repair and another fine job Max !
Cheers !
Learned a lot from your lathe rebuilt. Loved the method you used to preload the main bearing. Keep your standards high!
Thanks .
You can have four beers after this job !! I am having one just watching !!
Cheers !
Well Done Max! your bearing setup is spot on. Good to have the old girl back in action. Enjoyed !!
Thanks Dean .
Just did mine last summer. 900$ Canadian just for the spindle bearings. Good job and great video 👍
Thanks .
Pure F*****n brilliance, thanks for sharing your amazing work Max, could watch your videos all day, look forward to next one, cheers and all the best mate.
Thanks .
G’Day Max, just binge-watched this series. I admire the calm confident competence.
Thanks .
The next best thing to having a new machine. After that you deserve a cold one, Cheers Max!
or 3 , it was hot !
Great tutorial Max. I have a 1988 AL960B here in Mandurah WA and have watched all your overhaul videos. Great info and tips for my old unit.
Thanks 👍
Gday Max, thank you for showing your way to preload the bearings, on video the sound of the lathe running is much quieter then before, I went back to a previous video to see, great series mate, throughly enjoyed watching, have a great weekend, cheers
Thanks , good for another 12 years !
really enjoyed this one Max, lots of detail, and I reckon I would feel confident enough to have a go at doing my own after watching this!
Thanks .
Hello Max! new subscriber from Sweden my name is Jesper.
I'm 23 and appreciate every bit of advice.
Keep up the good work!
Thanks . 👍
There are times it would be handy to be an Octopus!
Sounds sweet Max.
Good work.
Would be good to have 3 arms sometimes !
This was very helpfull, i´m thinking of making a basic lathe for my shop, and finding out i have still a lot to learn on these machines. Thank you very much!
No worries 👍
Really enjoyed this bearing swap series, learnt heaps, Thanks Max.
On silastic your mate Alan Moffat love the stuff, he did all the TV ads
Lol , He used it to stop the windows rattling in his Ford when a Holden blasted past !!!
My best regards to the engineer who had the idea of putting those holes there and to you for demonstrating their use.
Thanks .
Max thank you for sharing about preloading bearings. It was great to learn a lot in this lathe rebuild.
No worries .
Thanks for another great learning series. The bearing tips and demonstration were priceless.
Thanks Rob .
Really interesting Max. Great watching your skills changing and resetting the bearings. The main bearings are unbelievably cheap to say what precise work they do. Tony
Thanks Tony .
Another "Good work" job Max! Appreciate you and you sharing it with us. Learn something every time I watch one of your videos. Thanks, and Have a goodern!
Thanks .
Max, the background noise sounds like your shop is next to a pub. What a great place for a shop.
Bloody noisy neighbours ! Cheers .
Nice work Max I’ve really enjoyed this series. That was a bit of a tricky bastards to get the gears back on the spindle. Great information too on setting up the headstock bearings.
Thanks .
Good tutorial on setting bearing pre-load, Max . Much better than the hit or miss technique I used when I replaced my spindle bearings -- will remember that the next time I set the pre-load . Thanks for the info !
Thanks .
Wow. What outstanding results. Sounds a ton better as well. Great repair Max!
I agree. Great info to reference later.
Thanks .
Thanks Tom .
This is fantastic. Brilliant solution for pushing that old bearing off. I have a very similar lathe from the early 90s that needs a bearing change, will be using your method. Also the best explanation of how to judge pre-load that i've seen in a vid. Thanks! Also Also, "Re-Nip" has been added to vocabulary. Cheers.
Thanks .
Hi Max Just back from Falcon. No cooler there. As always very straightforward and helpful information. Your considered approach without some of the YT heroics is very refreshing. Peter
Thanks . Hopefully we are near the end of the over 40 deg temps !
Max, very well done, excellent reasoning and beautifully explained.
Thanks .
thanks for that Max, that was one of the most informative videos i've watched in a long time. Hats off to you !
No worries !
I love seeing this kind of shop school. It really amazes me how accurate these machines are.
I'll be here when you make the final adjustment in 6 months or so, cheers, 👍👍
Thanks .
Hi Max, another fabulous video. Im hooked on this channel. I wish I knew half the stuff you know. Cheers Mate,
Thanks 👍
Thanks for all the information on bearings and the end play, we're building a lathe from scratch in our shop, was really needing that information, again thanks sir, can't wait to see next video!
No worries . Building one or reconditioning an existing one ?
@@swanvalleymachineshop building one piece by piece of steel
Thanks Max for the whole series. I have much higher confidence I could do this now. Cheers Mate. 👍👍😎👍👍
No worries !
G’day Max I’ve been following you for a while now I’m glad that you showed how to do this it will come in handy. It’s true that I always learn something from machinists like yourself I have subscribed Max and look forward to watching the channel. Thanks mate kind regards John
Thanks 👍
Max, this was a wonderful lesson on adjusting headstock bearings! And, I suspect, _much_ more understandable than what's in the old Timken Engineering Handbook that I inherited when I started working as a Mechanical Engineer in the early '80s. No-one was interested in it when I retired (probably because it wasn't "digital"), so it followed me home.
Thanks . They have some great info the old books . Cheers .
Beautiful explanation and methods.
Timken bearing leaves much to be desired.
Thanks 👍
Nice job Max, got to be happy with the run out and quiet running.
I replaced the cheesy gear selector indicators with 1.5 mm aluminium covers, machined to dia and parted off, used Stainless Steel round head drive rivets to show the position.
Yes , pretty cheap . No one would know there are adjuster screws under them !
Great series of videos Max. Thank you for sharing your experience and skill with us.
I now have a little less trepidation about doing all of this on my Maximat Super 11once outside temps get to stay above 0 Celsius.
It's just been dragged 4,200km across Canada to the Atlantic provinces and awaits re-assembly in my insulated shed workshop.
Thanks . That's one cold place where you live ! Cheers .
Great video Max and very, very educational. Thanks.
Cheers . 👍
Great job, nice detailed tutorial on taper roller bearings for axial thrust application, as you say, taper rollers don't like pre-load, the get hot pretty quickly at light or zero loads, heavy loads helps transmit the heat fully with roller contact. Obviously when actually turning, the rear bearing could be flapping about, the rotary friction welding machines I used to install had a spring cartridge on the rear to maintain alignment and gave support to the rear transmission belt drives. Rear bearings are smaller than the front, on bigger machines, the front bearings were double or triple stacked. Sizes ranged from 8" bore inner cone, to 18" diameters.
Again, great job,thanks for sharing.
Thanks . Rotary friction welding would be great to see in real life !
@@swanvalleymachineshop I've been working on RFW since 1989, still great to watch, even when I am doing weld development or for the first time on a new machine or new tooling, can be bum clenching time😵.
Can take hours to cut and section the weldments, prep them for a bend test and both macro/microscopy.
I've met many in a bar that say it doesn't work, or you can't bond copper to steel to aluminium etc.
Is the heat cooling down yet?
Best regards John.
@@bostedtap8399 Still hot . 43 Deg C yesterday !
@@swanvalleymachineshop Ouch!
Cheers Max, nice job mate, it runs like new.
Thanks .
Golden lathe refurbishment max very interesting to watch 💯👍🏻🇬🇧
Cheers 👍
Great job! you made it loo easy.. Great results you got with non-precision bearings
Thanks .
G'day Max, absolutely fantastic mate, great to see the old girl running sweet again 😀
Thanks 👍
Max, given your heatwave at the moment heating the bearing to 100°c will only be 10° higher than in the shop! I like the inventive use of what you have on hand.
Thanks .
Great school keep up the great work Max
Thanks .
I'm impressed with those plain axle bearings that was a good call using those and gears sound fine maybe they lapped themselves together enough they'll run forever, great how to tutorial dude am gonna grease all gaskets now greasier the easier haha
Yep , the greasier the easier ! Cheers .
Nice job. Can't ask for better than that for run out.
Yes , i was impressed !
Wow! Thanks for this VERY interesting part and series. I needed to adjust mine...now I know. Thanks very uch.
No worries !
Nice one, Max. I really enjoyed.
Cheers !
She's sounding great Max. Back to working order. Thanks for sharing the tips. Yeah, its still frikkin cold up here. Send some of that heat our way mate :) Gilles
We have heaps to go around , 43 Deg C today !
Perfect timing, I’m about to do this to my Hare & Forbes “runout master” 🙄, thanks 👍🏻
Cheers !
New Sub here and Thank You for the great content! Excellent thorough presentation of a Job that most of us will tackle at some point whether we choose to or not. Thank You again and look forward to seeing your future videos.
Thanks 👍
Great video, Max! Was almost late getting to work this morning watching this 🤣. Always need clever ways of pulling stuff apart at my place of employment and anything to do with machine repair these days is infinitely helpful 😁.
I noticed how quiet she was running too when you spun her up, well done! If I had 4 thumbs they'd all be up lol. Cheers! 👍👍😁👍👍
Thanks Chris .
Thanks a lot , Max , that was a fantastic video ! Very informative
No worries !
Good job max it worked out well
Thanks .
Great results on the headstock play. 👍🏴
Thanks 👍
That's an incredible result for plain non precision bearings! Only a few micron runout is incredible. For reference I put p5 precision taper roller bearings and had about 4 micron run out on my Wabeco lathe. On my milling machine I put in p4 precision bearings and had 3 micron run out. It looks like you go very lucky with these bearings or timken makes really good bearings.
I think i may have just got lucky , or any run out from the spindle & bearing combined evened out !
Lots of great tips Max. I like how you did the preload on the headstock bearings. I need to remember that. Those bearing are much more expensive here in Canada. I use 6203, 6204 and 6205 often. 30211 is $86.14 and 30212 is $94.91. Thats about $95 and $103 Australian. I think I should start to look for a new supplier. Another well done rebuild. Thanks Max
Thanks . I would have thought your bearings would have been much cheaper there . I am lucky to have a major bearing supplier just down the road .
When I did my little Chinese lathe my spindle bearings were in the $80ish to.
Methinks you have a better relationship with your bearing supplier than we do, hahaaa!
Thank you for sharing your incredible expertise
No worries !
IR thermometers don't like shiny surfaces. Putting a piece of black tape, electrical tape works great, on any shiny surface will give you a better reading :)
Awesome video!
Thanks 👍
Ya have a lot of patience keep up the good work
Cheers 👍
Hi Max very good repair of the lathe, for 100 dollars it is all fixed up to make lots more chips!
Good for another 12 years !
That spindle setup looks very similar to my cholchester clone and I need to do this job on it
Thanks . If it has back to back rollers at the front , it may have a different spec . Cheers Adam .
👍Great end to the series Max with lots of great info of what and what not to do.
Also, don't forget to put that spindle end cover back on or you'll be making a mess on the shop floor. LOL 🤣
Cover on , no mess !!!
been looking forward to this. have a good un Max. keep up the great videos
Thanks .
Many thanks for this info. Kind regards Tony
No worries 👍
That was a great little series Max 👍 Very in depth with the usual great tips. All thru it I have been thinking " Mine is fine and should not need this for at least 10 years" but after hearing the difference I am now a bit scared 🤣
Hey Bill , check it's not just the change gears on the back . Cheers .
Will do mate, Cheers 🍺
Thank You for this video, learned some stuff.
No worries . 👍
Interesting series of videos. Thanks!
Thanks 👍
Great video. It reminds me why I hate doing this.
Lol ! Thanks .
Hi Max. I considered putting magnets in the top oil channels but decided against it as the bearing drip feed hole might get blocked and ruin the bearing.
I did , but was careful how they sat . Used real earth ones . 👍
Cheers for this man, really helped me out
No worries . 👍
Great video series. Not sure if you can edit the video titles, but if you can maybe consider adding the name and model of the lathe in the title so folk can search RUclips to find them in the future :)
Probably a good idea .
Thanks .
Very good job MAX,,the old school forever
Yes , old school forever ! Cheers .
The Grizzy manual for similar lathe says tighten nut extra 1/16" clockwise measured at outer circumference of nut after zero end float and zero preload is established. Hope that helps.
Thanks . That would be similar to the last tap using the sharpie marker as a reference on my one . Did that manual say if it was a operating temp adjustment or a cold adjustment ?Cheers .
we heat the bearing and sometimes wrap the shaft in plastic and put in dry ice or just ice
Thanks . At work we use liquid nitrogen .
@@swanvalleymachineshop I do service in 500 shops and most would not let me bring in liquid nitrogen, I even have to document WD40
@@garylarson6386 I guess it would have to be on their MSDS ( material saftey data sheets ) .
Hey Max great job your attention to detail is spot on and i learned some new tricks of the trade from watching you video (roller contact ) .I think those bearings will work just fine and i don't think you will go pass there speed rating . I watch some videos and went with the precision ones i have a precision matthews lathe din''t ask them but looked on grizzlys web sight they had one bearing and the price was like $800.00 crooks . The large spindle bearing was hard to find online in NSK made in japan i found one duplex set new old stock so two bearings for $150.00 and found the small one for like $85.00 each got two on EBay for $150.00 going to stick with NSK bearings for the rest standard grind . I don't like chinese bearings to me there rough and noisy . I know this is a long story not a comment I'll try to keep it shorter . Again Thanks a lot for the videos and can't wait for the new shop five thumbs up on your channel .JM
Cheers . I keep well away from those chinese things as well , where possible !
Id like to see this done on my old Hendey lathe. I hear that one is done completely differently with shims or some such thing.
Not sure how Hendy's were set up . Adam from Small Town Machine Shop might know .
I have never had to do the headstock on a lathe, done a number of other gearboxes and shaft alignments over the years though. I think I'd have put a shaft (a couple of mm clearance) from the tailstock right through the spindle to a decent bracket spaced right back from the drive side. I would have taken the selectors out, no matter the roll pins and would then put all the gears, bushes, circlips etc on over the shaft in order and would then slide the spindle in, not far out of alignment with where its supposed to be. May be overthinking it again, but hey.
Overthinking !!! Good idea though ! 👍
I thought some of your headstock looked a bit different to mine. I now know why: yours is a 2 x 3 gears, mine has 2 x 4 gears - all the components look quite similar, but a few things were clearly different, and I couldn't quite tell what it was. Nice work, as usual!
Thanks .
Heat up the bearings, they slip off then, the interference is very small, I just done the bearings in the headstock of my big Kirloskar lathe with new Gamet bearings £3000! and had to make a pair of headstock gears and a little heat was all it took. The spindle has a 4" bore with a D1-11 chuck mount. It's interesting that all modern lathes use the basic design first used by Colchester for the spindle bearings and labyrinth seals. Good video all the same.
Thanks . Not the sort of spindle you can pick up with one hand & put in the press ! Cheers .
@@swanvalleymachineshop i've just subscribed too!
@@crozwayne Thanks . This is how i do bearings with heat ! ruclips.net/video/5MGGtAGVVpE/видео.html
Hmm interesting pressing solution. I would have thought the bearing would have been a bit more pissy and stubborn breaking loose. Nicely played!
Thanks .
Jeebuz, couldn't get over the price of the bearings, I've been pricing spindle bearings for my Hercus 260ATM, and I'm pushing over $500 for the good stuff, just hope I never need to change them.
Thank you for this series, Max, I've learned a crapload, it still scares the shit out of me though, really impressed you didn't swear while you were putting the spindle in, either that, or brilliant editing;).
Have a good one,
Scott.
No , did not loose my lolly at any time !
Excellent job max, beer o'clock now Great video, keep'um coming...
Thanks 👍
It says, Run the lathe for 20 minutes in high gear to reach normal operating temperature before performing adjustment. Hope that helps.
Thanks . I had it running about 2 hrs for the op temp adjustment , just to be sure ! Cheers .
Those must be the nicest circlip pliers I’ve ever seen. Happen to have a brand name for them?
If they were the ratchet ones , they are Bluepoint . 👍
@@swanvalleymachineshop thanks!
If I was seeing things correctly, it looks like you ended up with your previously scribed marks aligned again? 58:30
They were close . 👍
Thanks for the information Max, will do a run in process with the new bearings ? Thanks again your content is always down to earth and very informative
I ran it for a couple of hours before that final adjustment on the video & will re check in about 6 months or so . . Cheers .
I never would have guessed that the bearings would slip like that.
Stranger things have happened ! 👍
Excellent video Max! When checking the temps, what figure above ambient is acceptable? And for greased bearings?
Look up the Timken website & they have the different specifications for that . There is a difference between grease & oil . I should have down loaded the page when i was looking as it took a while to find . They can run quite warm with no ill effects .
@@swanvalleymachineshop Thanks for that, will do.
This been most helpful , thanks😅
No worries 👍
Great series
Can you tell me about your drive belt, mine is a solid 25 inch and there is a lot of belt shredding, on my second and I’m just a tinkerer, my pulleys are aligned, I noticed that you have a 27 inch marked on your lathe
BX27 , cog type belt . I have a different motor fitted than the original . I always go for a cog type belt with small pulleys .
👍👍👍
Cheers .
Hi again, Ive just gone thro this adjustment procedure works fine. Altho when I push on the head stock casting I get approx 0.0005" of deflection on my indicator is that normal Max ?
Yes . I think you are picking up the headstock & bed flexing on the tin pedestals . I can flex my one a couple of thou by hand . I am planning on building new more solid pedestals for my one . I am planning to do it this winter , hopefully .
Cheers 👍
Nice job!
Thanks Chui .
Looking Good Max....
Thanks 👍
Nicely done, thanks
Cheers .
Great work mate. Better tolerances than new. How’s the new workshop going?
Thanks . Had to pretty much halt progress due to total fire bans , that means no cutting , grinding or welding ! Still hope to have both end walls completed early Feb .