Hey man great video. I have been a carpenter for 11 years and now work professionally in a studio. My comment has nothing to do with your panels acoustically but rather the construction method that you talk about. First, the screws you have have nothing to do with the wood cracking when screwing in the end grain, in fact you mention that a drywall screw could potentially cause this, when in reality a drywall screw would be less likely to crack the end grain because drywall screw shanks are usually smaller (#6). The only reason you are not cracking the pine is because pine is a softwood, but this will only help temporarily, if the wood dries out they will probably crack. So you should always pre drill when screwing into end grain. Also I would not recommend not drilling holes in the side like you are doing, because this is solid wood you are significantly weakening the frame, if you wish to do this use plywood for the sides as well. Second: As for saying "sound can't actually enter in the sides..." this is simply not true. Sound will still go through pine, quite easily even, some high frequency will bounce off but these panels pretty much designed to eat up low end. To me this is just unnecessary.
@@DeRockTucker You're welcome! Though I'm not sure the pine or any material would cause standing waves inside the frame. I mean it would, but the insulation would take care of that, the wave length inside a 32 inch panel is roughly 370Hz which is where these batts eat up a lot of the frequencies.
Great video, enough explanation without unnecessary or repeated information " Detailed and informative in the most possible short time" . thank you for such quality !
for ceiling panels, is better to provide some thin wood element on the front too, below the tissue. Otherwise the mineral wool weight will be hold in place only by the fabric layer. This would cause some deformation with time.
I built my panels without a wooden frame. I used burlap and just folded it over on the back of the panel and glued it with hot melt glue. Works great, if you screw up, just pull up the burlap and re glue. The corners are just folded over neatly and glued. I used siding samples from Home Depot, near the 4 corners of the panel on the front under the burlap with string going through the panel to the back, where the panel can then be attached to the wall. I also used heavy paper to cover the panel under the burlap as a limp membrane to prevent the highs from being absorbed.
Good stuff on the build video! Just remember for your viewers who are going down this dark path. Weed block fabric contains petroleum product and is flammable. Guilford of Maine is flame retardant and will char when lit - another reason why it is soooooo expensive. Rokul Safe n Sound and mineral wool is definitely fire resistant up to certain temps. Great videos though - thanks for sharing
Have you ever thought about hanging them with aircraft cable? I work in construction and when I’ve seen carpenters install these they were hung with cable. My guess is for increased acoustics and allowing more sound to enter space on the backside. The rooms are almost dead quiet.
I had a bunch of black moving blankets that I was using for a vocal booth. I ended up cutting them up and using them for my covering fabric. Works a treat :)
Hello from Germany I hope I can explain it clearly MDF is used because it is heavier than most types of wood, it also has a much more homogeneous structure and the way it is made it absorbs resonances more than it resonates
Great video thanks! I like the holes you put in the sides, I will have to redo mine. And when I saw you screwing in those boards my first thought was man this guy is going to split his wood -ha! I will look for those screws.
Great video, I was also thinking about drilling out holes in the sides of the wood (pine 1x6") so as to lighten the weight. Although your comment about allowing sound to enter sideways is an interesting thought. I am making a cloud panel. Also, for the gardening anti-weed fabric...very thoughtful! I use very fine lacey-type fabric that you may see in a bride's headdress. Very fine fabric.; 100% polyester. Soft chiffon fabric, breathable. I am wondering if the weed fabric would be more effective. Great video! as are Kevin P's comments. More than anything else, I see and appreciate your singular and very passionate foray into this amazing endeavor we all have embarked on...often without any real payback...truly a labor of love for the vast majority of us.
Wow! Lots of hard work. Your studio is really coming together nicely. It really looks great & I’m 100% positive it’s gonna sound great as well. Thanks for sharing your journey.
Have you thought about using two narrower lengths of wood and leaving a gap along both sides of the panel, rather than drilling holes along one length of wood?
Beautiful design and amazing craftsmanship! I would only suggest that you have your mixing/monitoring position away from the wall as far as you possibly can considering your limited space. As a general rule of thumb you want your work area off the wall about a third of the length of the room which is not really a good option for the space you have but you really need to get the monitors out away from the wall. I think that’s the most common mistake people make when building a home studio. I’m not trying to be negative or critical, just making an honest observation about the biggest improvement that you can make that I noticed and with that being said you have a much better studio setup than my home studio by far. I really like what you have done with the wood and it’s given me more ideas and inspiration to improve my space. 👍✌️
I cannot tell you how many years I have searched for an appropriate, inexpensive acoustically transparent fabric for my acoustic panels. And I have been using landscape fabric for more years than I've been building panels. Duh. Great idea.
Thoughts on this? I recently made a sound panel using 1x2 sides and a plywood back. I put 3.5" mineral wool in it. I then used the fabric to create a convex shape. I figured the shorter side wall would allows for more sound to enter. I also thought the convex shape would be better than something flat to disperse sound differently. The design causes a more dense edge, and a less dense center. I would think this would mean that sound entering (off-angle) would be force through different densities, thus handling a broader range of frequencies.
You can use old towels (if you can get enough of them) as sound insulation material. The performance is fantastic and often superior to insulation pads. The Advantage in using stacked towels as sound insulation is that you dont need to worry about any solvents or dangerous fibres. You can also use more air transparent fabric or even screening material, chicken coup screen etc. Depends on whether you can buy or source 50 or 100 used towels to make padding material for the panels.
Great video very helpful and informative. I'm about to start an in-wall speaker and installation build. I see in this video that your speakers are in wall. Did you do a video on how you constructed your in-wall system? If so, is there a link? Thank you!
Great video and you definitely gave me some ideas. I think instead of screws, I'll use wood glue and brad nails. Should be much quicker and less likely to split the wood.
Another excellent video. This will come in handy once I get my new control room framed out. I am still dealing with dimensions and angles of walls, so still researching those details....Super nice job...
Quick question. I have 3 inch mineral wool. I also have 1x5.5x7 scrape wood left over from a build. In your opinion, would you cut down the 5.5 inch width, to 2.75 inches and frame up the mineral wool? Or keep the 5.5 inch width and have one 3 inch panel with 2.5 inches of air space?
2:00 Predrill holes before you drive your screws in. This will prevent the wood from splitting. The type of screw is unimportant, as you are forcing a screw where the wood naturally wants to be, and if it gets forced enough, regardless of which type of screw you are using, the wood will split. Trust me, I have been woodworking as a hobbyist and DIY'er, not professionally, for more than 30 years. If you drove that many screws into the end grain of cheap pine 1x4's without a single split......chalk that up as beginners luck. Yes, Spax screws are among the best screws to work with in a woodworking or construction project, but if the wood is thin enough, and the diameter of the screw is fat enough, you will eventually split your wood. There are plenty other reasons your wood will split including moisture, both in the air and in the wood, and stress from the weight of your project, especially if you're going to hang it on a wall with only a few screws holding everything together. If you use a drill with a drill bit slightly thinner than the inner shaft of the screw, and a drill/driver (two different tools, this will save you the time of constantly having to remove the drill bit and insert the screwdriver bit) to drive in your screws, you'll be adding only a couple seconds to driving each screw. Also you mentioned people making projects like this using drywall screws..........any woodworker, carpenter, or even interior painter, knows full well that the ONLY thing you use drywall screws for, is hanging drywall. Using drywall screws for a woodworking project is begging for the project to fail because drywall screws are actually very brittle and will very easily break under too much pressure. When hanging drywall, the drywall screw is driven in just enough to break to outer paper on the drywall.
Hi..... thanks for the video ... after long term use of the panels and covering with 2 layers of fabric , you don't have any loos fiber health problem ?
Greetings, I think the videos you have shared are great, I thank you for the information. I would like to know what fabric you used for the panel? WHAT KIND OF FABRIC IS WHITE FABRIC? GREETINGS FROM ECUADOR
I am also a carpenter and you could have used 2 pieces of the pine per side turned sideways so as to leave a long open strip up each side. No hole drilling
2:22 It might still be advisable to predrill depending on the lumber or quality of that lumber. I would still use a tiny pilot hole to guide the placement exactly where I want. Don't use large drill bits to avoid stripping the wood out.
The best absorption material is natural wool fleece! and would work well above on the Ceiling, you can just hang it on the walls on wooden dowels on blocks always away from the wall the fleece at least an inch inch and a half. For the ceiling just wave it so it sags, you can use self adhesive hooks fishing line little wooden dowels or oval nails poked through the fleece to hold it in place, I don't think it's necessary to go to thick quarter of an inch fleece is fine you don't want to make it to dead it's just as bad as not having nothing. Put the fleece round the corners back of the walls hanging over a couple of feet, so you got some 45-degree angles off the corners put the hooks about 8" from the side of the wall on the Ceiling to give you some slope, give it between 2" to 3" hanging off the ceiling and overlap the fleece doesn't have to be in one piece better if not given a couple of inches air gap between the overlaps and about the same on the overlap pieces, hooks can be put every two feet you might have problems with the type of ceiling coating if it's rough coating might need to glue with No More Nails quick drying builders adhesive, otherwise the self adhesive pads should be fine just clean service first with methylated spirits before sticking. I don't see any logic in what your friend is telling you about fibreglass and rockwool if you can enlighten me! you don't need to use fiberglass there's no benefit because of the size. depends what rockwool you can get studio grade or standard DIY wall rockwool you want the one that's a bit harder that needs to be cut with a saw like a bread knife. I like the wooden strips but you made a mistake really I would have put the strips stuck together in groups set back into the panel a couple of inches not lying flat but still effective. You need some bass traps just use the fleece hang it off the corners about 2 foot across going up to the ceiling coming out further about the same to foot from the top of the ceiling 2-ft hanging out just use a wooden dowels one for the top one on the wall couple feet down to give the slope and you don't need anymore leave a gap at the bottom about foot. You shouldn't have any problem with natural wool some people can be allergic to it you want it really properly washed or you can wash it yourself beforehand it's not the wool it's what it's picked up pollen little microscopic bugs what would give you the allergic reaction but when in place shouldn't be a problem you can use a mixed fibre of natural wool and poly fibre wall insulation comes a lot thicker and cheaper would be nice to shown a spectrum analyser test of your room! did you do this beforehand or while you were acoustically adjusting
The studio is looking really good man! I've watched all of your build videos and am super impressed on how detailed you have been! I have been wanting to build my own studio for a long time now. I'm just waiting for the right space to put it in. I cant wait to hear what kind of work you get out of there! Looking forward to the next video!
I have the materials to build a portable studio for my vo work, but have no place to build it, there is people living in the basement of the home too, and I'm in a room with other people who is always home. Do you have any suggestions? BTW great video, was wonder where you've been.
Question is did you do any room measurements to determine nodes and response, if you don't do that first and address specific nodes and frequency dampening and diffusion to achieve even room characteristic's, then your not getting a complete picture of how the room behaves.
Wow man. Good job man. I will just throw some stinky carpet roll in a corner, I have a rug till the basement floods. Always two layers of r-19 insulation. That is just for my wife. She doesn't like to hear all my crap. To each their own. Mic's can hide a lot of stuff. I like the sound of a wide open room with concrete walls. How I came up. Cool how you can adjust the panels, and change the room. Cool man =)
Just an FYI. It wasn’t about the screws. The fact that you used plywood on the ends was a great idea because that will not split no matter what screw you use and the pine won’t split when you screw into the end grain. So it was your process that was good, it wasn’t the screw. Awesome idea with the weed fabric.
Man o man, you're on repeat....what would di you use for the side wall slats...it looks like some type of finished wood and what thickness. I love your videos, now I'm changing some things up. You are so very in depth...Thanks
Verry good Video. And I`m sure you know what yo`re doing. Using the expensive but just real good old german Spax screws made me trust in and subscribe. All the best from Frankenstein (Germany) Chris
Fabric isn't going to prevent those particles from coming through the fabric. I would simply stay away from building insulation altogether for not only health reasons, and for optimal absorption coefficient curve.
The tests for rock wool are good for sound absorption. It absorbs both low and high frequencies, and is used in many many many studios. It's also far safer than fibreglass. Is it absolutely safe? No, I wouldn't put a bunch around my bed, but it does break down and get cleared from your lungs.
Jimmy yes, I'm aware of that, but it's not meant for acoustic treatment. It's for thermal insulation and absorbtion in a residential home to be used in a wall cavity. The problem with building insulation is that for mid's and high's, it over absorbs in the 125hz to 500 hz range. For using in a low frequency pressure activated device, it's not porous enough as a full material. For mid's and high's, Look at the Fletcher Munsen hearing curve, at the range between 125hz and 500hz. It actually has a nice smooth slope. There are other products designed to that curve, which will yield a more natural quality.
@@devalah After using and being in rooms with a lot of different materials from different companies, the best sounding absorption product that I have found was the acoustic foam from a company called Acoustic Fields. The reasoning is they have developed their own foam which has an abosption coefficient that's closely matched to human hearing. If you look at the absorption curve of the Fletcher Munsen hearing curve at the frequency range of 125hz to 1000hz, there is a gradual slope. What happens with most building insulation is that they weren't designed for that curve. Most of them were designed for thermal inslutiaon and sound absorption to be used inside a wall.. Acoustic treatment for music/speech has to be developed for that application. Now, after doing a lot of research and reading, the reasons why most people use Building insulation is for the wrong reasons. They use it because it's readily available, it's cheap and up until fairly recently, that's about all that people knew about. Being that Acoustic Fields is a small company and doesn't have the shear marketing power that these other companies have, not a lot of people have used it. Also, if you look at their videos of customers that have switched, they have typically switched from using building insuatlion, like RockWool or some other traditional absorption material. And I heard the exact same thing they did. It's just a more natural sound quality and if you are a recording engineer, you probably won't have to touch the EQ all that much because you don't have to compensate for the absorption curve of the material you are using. Also, Acoustic Fields had absolutely the best low frequency absorption products on the market. They figured out to use activated carbon, which they have patents on and I read a study that was done in the UK at a University where they tested activated carbon and it is actually effective down to even 20hz, which no other material can do. It's due to the density and it's porosity of activated carbon. it's very cool, indeed. They are expensive, but they are the most effective. I know, I sound like an advertisement, but I'm just recommending their products after using and have been in studios that used the traditional materials. Without a doubt the Acoustic Field's room I was in was just absolutely head and shoulders the best sounding room I've ever been in.. the first thing to do in ANY room where you are dealing with full range speakers and/or instruments is to deal with the low frequencies. The reason is they are the most difficult to deal with and it's the most expensive. Once you get a handle on the low frequencies under 100hz, then dealing with mid's and high's above 100hz is easier, but you can better hear the differences in materials. go and check out their video catalog, they have hundreds of short videos ranging from general information, to more specific information about acoustic treatment. And they even cater to the DIYer, so you can just buy the raw materials from them to build your own frame for acoustic foam with a fabric covering, etc.
I'm building a basement studio. I just scooped a bunch of panels that are 5X2X2" - I'm concerned about the sound in the room, but I'm equally concerned about the sound traveling upstairs and disrupting my family whether that be during the day, or in the evening. I'll definitely check out your other videos. I was curious if I was going to use panels on the ceiling would it be beneficial to do panels butted up against one another creating a total drop ceiling of panels? Thanks!
Much respect for your work! I am in the process of building my own studio and I wonder what to cover the walls filled with wool so that it does not dust. What do you think, are two layers of fabric or one layer of foil and fabric will be enough?
HELP! 5 QUESTIONS Does anyone think having panels with an open back would help reduce some of the airborne noise coming from traffic outside? And would having the panel a certain distance from the wall (e.g. 2") help with reducing airborne noise from outside by deadening it in the panel? I am hoping to deaden some of this airborne traffic noise in the audio of my videos. I am going to be doing videos of a person speaking and I have a really beautiful looking Room but the traffic has a lot of a low rumbling frequencies I need to reduce. I also would like to know, is there is a microphone that would be better for isolating the speaker away from those airborne noises? If panels may help reduce some of that airborne traffic noise coming in how thick should I make them? Lastly does anyone have any tips on reducing the airborne traffic coming into this room, other than demolitioning the walls to decouple new walls. I keep thinking that there must be some sort of way to erect acoustic panels/partitions or curtains around the subject in an attractive way or less preferably an acoustic fence around the front and sides of the building. Or maybe even some sort of dence acoustic shade (e.g. MLV) outside of the building that I can pull down during sessions. I'm hoping that simply putting panels up on the walls and maybe some standing panels/partitions around the subject will be sufficient along with some sort of microphone that will focus mostly on the subject. Please help!
2:35 pre drilling is so you don't split the wood. Also makes a much stronger connection. Pre drilling is always recommended in cheaper wood if you want it to last.
ello my brother I'm finishing 11 ft x16 ft recording study How many acoustic panels would you need? use thanks for your answer greets you Nilson guevara music- my youtobe
I found I liked GRK Fasteners much better when it came to large Lag Screws. They have been my best friend in different construction projects. Easy to reuse again and again if you need temporary holding power. You can quite literally drive one completely through a 2x4. Great for straightening out warped wood.
great video buddy , I just have a simple question to ask . can I cover the backing fabric around the rock wool and then insert the rock wool inside and after doing that I apply everything the front fabric and the back fabric . is that ok will it effect and absorb less. and also another question can I apply a half inch foam after the rock wool covered by backing fabric , just to seal it right . >? looking forward for your help and great video buddy
Why have a frame at all? Why not just make pillows or cushions and hang them all over the place? Can get some really cheap boxes, crates or containers of different sizes and fill them with insulation, wrap in fabric. Been thinking about doing this.
I have an honest question or two. Why does the fabric have to be acoustically transparent? In my view the fabric need only be absorbative and of course hold back fibers; then the fabric only acts as an enhancement to the panel. I have seen some liberal ways of building panels where panel builders use super thin plastic to wrap the mineral wool in to prevent fibers in the air. Think dry cleaning bag thickness ish. It might reflect the super high frequencies that we probably want in a room but absorbs most of the others frequencies that are annoying. Another question is; why did you use plywood on the shorter ends of the panels rather than just pine? stability? By the way, spax are great! I still pre drill to with a countersink bit to avoid the screw showing through the fabric but in the east some of the pine is super shitty, so I glue as well.
@@RupasCoherence Sorry I miss worded that plastic statement. The very very thin plastic allows all frequencies to pass through it except those extreme highs. The idea is to keep some of that extreme high end in the room and the rest to be absorbed by the panel. The thin plastic allows you to block any fiberglass or mineral wool particles to stay out of your room with the added benefit of keeping the wanted high end. Often rooms need a lot of treatment and over absorb the very top frequencies while dampening everything below it just fine.
Thank you for the tutorial. I don't have the cash to purchase high end professiomal room treatments. I'm not building a recording studio. I just want a dedicated listening room.
Also, quadratic is the best type of diffusor. Those other things you have aren't good diffusors as they don't conform to all of the requirements of a diffusor.
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Insulation, particularly mineral wool and rigid fiberglass, absorb low frequency waves more effectively than acoustic foam, etc. It's the low frequencies that are typically the most problematic in your recording studio.
@@iamsamori The problem is that for proper low frequency absorption from 100hz and below you really need a pressure activated absorption rather than velocity. Foam, building insulation are velocity based. The problem with building insulation, mineral wool, fiberglass is that the absorption coefficient was not really designed for acoustic treatment and their absorption coefficient curves don't have a nice smooth curve that matches well with human hearing. As far as foam is concerned, there are different brands and types of acoustic foam on the market. Generally they do not have similar absorption coefficient curves to each other, so to simply generalize them as just foam would be incorrect. You really have to look at the absorption coefficient curves to get one that does well from 125hz and above, but also has a nice natural slope so that it matches to human hearing. If you look at the Fletcher Munsen hearing curve and look at the 125hz to 1,000hz which are the 3 main octave ranges in the midrange area, it has a smooth slope to it. Now for low frequencies below 125hz, they are best handled with a pressure activated device. There are three main types of this, however, the problem is that they have different levels of effectiveness, so the most effective would be diaphragmatic, followed by Membrane (similar to diaphragmatic but with less mass) and then Helmholtz resonators. But first you have to calculate or measure what low frequencies you have problems with, the amplitude of these frequencies that are giving you the most problems and where in the room they are located. Contrary to popular belief, low frequency issues that are the most problematic are the Axial and the are between 2 walls, or floor to ceiling some times you might find them with distributions between each wall. It can get rather complicated as to what one really needs to "fix" the room mode problems in small rooms, and they generally require a LOT of area coverage to really manage them well. Now, with pressure activated devices, you can get some with a velocity based material (foam, etc.) to handle the mid range/higher frequencies, but the pressure activated devices generally are tailored more for the lower frequencies only.. Obviously, the design and materials will determine their effectiveness.. SO, it really requires a combination of velocity AND pressure activated devices, enough room coverage, and then once you get that dealt with, then you can deal with diffusion.
Oneness100 It’s generally accepted in the industry that mineral wool and rigid fiberglass are the way to go in terms of acoustic absorption in recording studios. In fact, you can always use techniques such as super chunks, etc. to have 6” or more of absorption for your corner bass traps. I’ve personally seen the effectiveness in many applications (studios, churches, etc.). I definitely appreciate your line of thinking. But, I would say for most recording studio applications (especially smaller rooms and home studios) you can’t go wrong with mineral wool or rigid fiberglass. Particularly if you focus on coverage (as you stated), thickness, and corner bass traps.
@@iamsamori generally accepted but what actually performs better are two different things. I met someone that has his own acoustic treatment company and developed their own acoustic foam and they paid close attention to the absorption coefficient curves. Being open minded, I was curious, so I went and visited one of his test rooms they had about 7 or so years ago. Their room was far more "natural" sounding than ANY room I've been in that used fiberglass, mineral wool, etc. In fact, I've had acoustic treatment using fiberglass, mineral wool, Auralex and Sonex foam and NONE of these materials sounded anywhere near as good as this company's room using their own materials. They have also gone to many recording studios that normally was using either Mineral wool or Fiberglass and they compared using this company's foam and the foam sounded better and many of those recording studios switched over after first hand listening tests. In fact, Capitol Record's Mastering room now uses their products which incorporate their acoustic foam, diagaphramatic absorption and quadratic diffusors and they sonic difference is huge. There are other studios and engineers that have done their own listening tests and have adopted this company's foam and diaphragmatic absorption with superior results. Just because others use mineral wool or fiberglass is mostly for several reasons. One, until not that long ago, that's pretty much all that's been available. And it's cheap. The company I'm referring to is a small company with a small marketing budget, and they haven't been around that long so not many people actually know about them. But over time, more and more are actually taking the time checking their products out and they have been converting people over slowly. It's just a matter of people finding out and trying out their products. But going by general way of doing things isn't necessary the ONLY or the best method.. I was skeptical until I checked out their products, but after first hand listening, I was convinced. I actually wouldn't recommend anything else.
Oneness100 I hear you. But, still not sold. I’m 100% on effectiveness. And, it’s been very well established that mineral wool and rigid fiberglass are most effective. Can you give me a link to the ATSM chart for the acoustic foam that you’re referring to? There are very few acoustic labs that are certified to test accurately below 100 Hz. But, if you have data for their effectiveness below 100 Hz it would be great to see that too.
Hey man great video. I have been a carpenter for 11 years and now work professionally in a studio. My comment has nothing to do with your panels acoustically but rather the construction method that you talk about. First, the screws you have have nothing to do with the wood cracking when screwing in the end grain, in fact you mention that a drywall screw could potentially cause this, when in reality a drywall screw would be less likely to crack the end grain because drywall screw shanks are usually smaller (#6). The only reason you are not cracking the pine is because pine is a softwood, but this will only help temporarily, if the wood dries out they will probably crack. So you should always pre drill when screwing into end grain. Also I would not recommend not drilling holes in the side like you are doing, because this is solid wood you are significantly weakening the frame, if you wish to do this use plywood for the sides as well. Second: As for saying "sound can't actually enter in the sides..." this is simply not true. Sound will still go through pine, quite easily even, some high frequency will bounce off but these panels pretty much designed to eat up low end. To me this is just unnecessary.
Thanks for this addendum! Really helps the end user out. Hope this comment gets pushed up.
Yup. I predrill everything. I countersink the heads too.
sound will also resonate with pine -- the argument could go both ways. thank you for the comment about pre-drilling, spot on!
@@ButBigger42 I was taught "if in doubt drill it out" and I always go by that now
@@DeRockTucker You're welcome! Though I'm not sure the pine or any material would cause standing waves inside the frame. I mean it would, but the insulation would take care of that, the wave length inside a 32 inch panel is roughly 370Hz which is where these batts eat up a lot of the frequencies.
Great video, enough explanation without unnecessary or repeated information " Detailed and informative in the most possible short time" . thank you for such quality !
for ceiling panels, is better to provide some thin wood element on the front too, below the tissue. Otherwise the mineral wool weight will be hold in place only by the fabric layer. This would cause some deformation with time.
I'm sure some netting like bird b gone would be perfect for that application. You can attach it underneath the fabric.
Weezna, you are truly The Man!!! Keep up the good work. As ALWAYS we at MIRROR EMAGE ENTERTAINMENT wish you NOTHING but Success.
I built my panels without a wooden frame. I used burlap and just folded it over on the back of the panel and glued it with hot melt glue. Works great, if you screw up, just pull up the burlap and re glue. The corners are just folded over neatly and glued. I used siding samples from Home Depot, near the 4 corners of the panel on the front under the burlap with string going through the panel to the back, where the panel can then be attached to the wall. I also used heavy paper to cover the panel under the burlap as a limp membrane to prevent the highs from being absorbed.
Good stuff on the build video! Just remember for your viewers who are going down this dark path. Weed block fabric contains petroleum product and is flammable. Guilford of Maine is flame retardant and will char when lit - another reason why it is soooooo expensive. Rokul Safe n Sound and mineral wool is definitely fire resistant up to certain temps.
Great videos though - thanks for sharing
it is indeed a dark path filled with tears and blood
Have you ever thought about hanging them with aircraft cable? I work in construction and when I’ve seen carpenters install these they were hung with cable. My guess is for increased acoustics and allowing more sound to enter space on the backside. The rooms are almost dead quiet.
I had a bunch of black moving blankets that I was using for a vocal booth. I ended up cutting them up and using them for my covering fabric. Works a treat :)
this is Awesome "True Sound" thanks! Now I know how to build my own acoustic Panels.
WHAT AN AMAZING VIDEO! Thanks for this huuuge tips bro! You help us a LOT!
Great tutorial!!!! You have a lovely studio🤩. I’m using this video and the tutorial for the sound diffusers to design my new studio
Hello from Germany I hope I can explain it clearly
MDF is used because it is heavier than most types of wood, it also has a much more homogeneous structure and the way it is made it absorbs resonances more than it resonates
Hands down the most informative and complete video for DIY acoustic pannels on youtube. Well done!!!
Great video thanks! I like the holes you put in the sides, I will have to redo mine. And when I saw you screwing in those boards my first thought was man this guy is going to split his wood -ha! I will look for those screws.
The holes on the side of the frame are a genial! Well done man. Respect
Man that is totally awesome studio. Great job.
Michael Douglas thank you
Great video, I was also thinking about drilling out holes in the sides of the wood (pine 1x6") so as to lighten the weight. Although your comment about allowing sound to enter sideways is an interesting thought. I am making a cloud panel. Also, for the gardening anti-weed fabric...very thoughtful! I use very fine lacey-type fabric that you may see in a bride's headdress. Very fine fabric.; 100% polyester. Soft chiffon fabric, breathable. I am wondering if the weed fabric would be more effective.
Great video! as are Kevin P's comments. More than anything else, I see and appreciate your singular and very passionate foray into this amazing endeavor we all have embarked on...often without any real payback...truly a labor of love for the vast majority of us.
Wow! Lots of hard work. Your studio is really coming together nicely. It really looks great & I’m 100% positive it’s gonna sound great as well. Thanks for sharing your journey.
Tony Draper Thank you for that, I appreciate it
@@TrueSoundTV how flammable is that weed control fabric?
Have you thought about using two narrower lengths of wood and leaving a gap along both sides of the panel, rather than drilling holes along one length of wood?
You did a great job!
And it looks great too!
Amazing holes on side boards. First time seeing that. 😎
Your studio and panel build videos are the best on RUclips. So much detail!
hi , thanks for the video , can I ask what size of screw and pilot drill would be use so no the wood to slit ,,thanks
Beautiful design and amazing craftsmanship! I would only suggest that you have your mixing/monitoring position away from the wall as far as you possibly can considering your limited space. As a general rule of thumb you want your work area off the wall about a third of the length of the room which is not really a good option for the space you have but you really need to get the monitors out away from the wall. I think that’s the most common mistake people make when building a home studio. I’m not trying to be negative or critical, just making an honest observation about the biggest improvement that you can make that I noticed and with that being said you have a much better studio setup than my home studio by far. I really like what you have done with the wood and it’s given me more ideas and inspiration to improve my space. 👍✌️
great video, thorough explanations, well-paced editing, keep it up!
I cannot tell you how many years I have searched for an appropriate, inexpensive acoustically transparent fabric for my acoustic panels. And I have been using landscape fabric for more years than I've been building panels. Duh. Great idea.
Really good build video mate. Thanks very much.
Glad you enjoyed it
I'm gonna use wood glue too, doesnt take long to glue such a small joint, and would add strength + longevity
your studio setup is looking good.
KOOL DRIZZLE Thank you, yeah it’s been a long time coming!
love your control room mate. i wish i have one like that.
Thoughts on this?
I recently made a sound panel using 1x2 sides and a plywood back. I put 3.5" mineral wool in it. I then used the fabric to create a convex shape.
I figured the shorter side wall would allows for more sound to enter. I also thought the convex shape would be better than something flat to disperse sound differently.
The design causes a more dense edge, and a less dense center. I would think this would mean that sound entering (off-angle) would be force through different densities, thus handling a broader range of frequencies.
You can use old towels (if you can get enough of them) as sound insulation material. The performance is fantastic and often superior to insulation pads.
The Advantage in using stacked towels as sound insulation is that you dont need to worry about any solvents or dangerous fibres.
You can also use more air transparent fabric or even screening material, chicken coup screen etc.
Depends on whether you can buy or source 50 or 100 used towels to make padding material for the panels.
Great video very helpful and informative. I'm about to start an in-wall speaker and installation build. I see in this video that your speakers are in wall. Did you do a video on how you constructed your in-wall system? If so, is there a link? Thank you!
Great video and you definitely gave me some ideas. I think instead of screws, I'll use wood glue and brad nails. Should be much quicker and less likely to split the wood.
Another excellent video. This will come in handy once I get my new control room framed out. I am still dealing with dimensions and angles of walls, so still researching those details....Super nice job...
great video, could you put a link up for the acoustic fabric used with these panels, cant seem to find em anywhere, thanks
I love your Studio Design ^^
Thank you! I appreciate that
Great video! What make/model for the formaldehyde-free mineral wool?
I’d love to know this also.
Best video till now. Tnx alot!
Great video. But I wouldn’t be able to get any work done in your studio with all those patterns: my OCD would go nuts!! lol
Quick question. I have 3 inch mineral wool. I also have 1x5.5x7 scrape wood left over from a build. In your opinion, would you cut down the 5.5 inch width, to 2.75 inches and frame up the mineral wool? Or keep the 5.5 inch width and have one 3 inch panel with 2.5 inches of air space?
Some great ideas here! Thanks for the tips!
2:00 Predrill holes before you drive your screws in. This will prevent the wood from splitting. The type of screw is unimportant, as you are forcing a screw where the wood naturally wants to be, and if it gets forced enough, regardless of which type of screw you are using, the wood will split. Trust me, I have been woodworking as a hobbyist and DIY'er, not professionally, for more than 30 years. If you drove that many screws into the end grain of cheap pine 1x4's without a single split......chalk that up as beginners luck. Yes, Spax screws are among the best screws to work with in a woodworking or construction project, but if the wood is thin enough, and the diameter of the screw is fat enough, you will eventually split your wood. There are plenty other reasons your wood will split including moisture, both in the air and in the wood, and stress from the weight of your project, especially if you're going to hang it on a wall with only a few screws holding everything together. If you use a drill with a drill bit slightly thinner than the inner shaft of the screw, and a drill/driver (two different tools, this will save you the time of constantly having to remove the drill bit and insert the screwdriver bit) to drive in your screws, you'll be adding only a couple seconds to driving each screw. Also you mentioned people making projects like this using drywall screws..........any woodworker, carpenter, or even interior painter, knows full well that the ONLY thing you use drywall screws for, is hanging drywall. Using drywall screws for a woodworking project is begging for the project to fail because drywall screws are actually very brittle and will very easily break under too much pressure. When hanging drywall, the drywall screw is driven in just enough to break to outer paper on the drywall.
Hi..... thanks for the video ... after long term use of the panels and covering with 2 layers of fabric , you don't have any loos fiber health problem ?
Greetings, I think the videos you have shared are great, I thank you for the information. I would like to know what fabric you used for the panel? WHAT KIND OF FABRIC IS WHITE FABRIC?
GREETINGS FROM ECUADOR
Nice job. Thanks for sharing.
Looks really great.
Hi, love your videos. I just wondering how you made those white panels behind you with the stripes in it? Do you have a video of this? Thanks, Steve
Hi sir great video..kindly upload link for finish fabric where we find plz
I am also a carpenter and you could have used 2 pieces of the pine per side turned sideways so as to leave a long open strip up each side. No hole drilling
2:22 It might still be advisable to predrill depending on the lumber or quality of that lumber.
I would still use a tiny pilot hole to guide the placement exactly where I want. Don't use large drill bits to avoid stripping the wood out.
The best absorption material is natural wool fleece! and would work well above on the Ceiling, you can just hang it on the walls on wooden dowels on blocks always away from the wall the fleece at least an inch inch and a half. For the ceiling just wave it so it sags, you can use self adhesive hooks fishing line little wooden dowels or oval nails poked through the fleece to hold it in place, I don't think it's necessary to go to thick quarter of an inch fleece is fine you don't want to make it to dead it's just as bad as not having nothing. Put the fleece round the corners back of the walls hanging over a couple of feet, so you got some 45-degree angles off the corners put the hooks about 8" from the side of the wall on the Ceiling to give you some slope, give it between 2" to 3" hanging off the ceiling and overlap the fleece doesn't have to be in one piece better if not given a couple of inches air gap between the overlaps and about the same on the overlap pieces, hooks can be put every two feet you might have problems with the type of ceiling coating if it's rough coating might need to glue with No More Nails quick drying builders adhesive, otherwise the self adhesive pads should be fine just clean service first with methylated spirits before sticking.
I don't see any logic in what your friend is telling you about fibreglass and rockwool if you can enlighten me! you don't need to use fiberglass there's no benefit because of the size. depends what rockwool you can get studio grade or standard DIY wall rockwool you want the one that's a bit harder that needs to be cut with a saw like a bread knife.
I like the wooden strips but you made a mistake really I would have put the strips stuck together in groups set back into the panel a couple of inches not lying flat but still effective. You need some bass traps just use the fleece hang it off the corners about 2 foot across going up to the ceiling coming out further about the same to foot from the top of the ceiling 2-ft hanging out just use a wooden dowels one for the top one on the wall couple feet down to give the slope and you don't need anymore leave a gap at the bottom about foot.
You shouldn't have any problem with natural wool some people can be allergic to it you want it really properly washed or you can wash it yourself beforehand it's not the wool it's what it's picked up pollen little microscopic bugs what would give you the allergic reaction but when in place shouldn't be a problem you can use a mixed fibre of natural wool and poly fibre wall insulation comes a lot thicker and cheaper would be nice to shown a spectrum analyser test of your room! did you do this beforehand or while you were acoustically adjusting
Great knowledge to put out. Thanks a lot!
Not a problem
Thank you for the video. Many ideas for my room and sonorisation.
I found great the idea of the holes on the side and the landscape fabric! May I ask you which fabric did you use for the front? Tks
Great Panels ⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️ Well Explained.🎹🎸
Hi and thanks for this vidéo 👌
Can i put a green screen in front of m'y acoustic panel without loosing absorbtion ?
The studio is looking really good man! I've watched all of your build videos and am super impressed on how detailed you have been! I have been wanting to build my own studio for a long time now. I'm just waiting for the right space to put it in. I cant wait to hear what kind of work you get out of there! Looking forward to the next video!
Tony Mor Thank you! Yeah if you have any questions let me know if you build your own!
I have the materials to build a portable studio for my vo work, but have no place to build it, there is people living in the basement of the home too, and I'm in a room with other people who is always home. Do you have any suggestions? BTW great video, was wonder where you've been.
Question is did you do any room measurements to determine nodes and response, if you don't do that first and address specific nodes and frequency dampening and diffusion to achieve even room characteristic's, then your not getting a complete picture of how the room behaves.
Yes throughout the entire build process, it was measured everytime i installed a portion of absorption or diffusion!
Owens Corning thermafiber is not available except in huge quantities.
That cheap backing fabric he mentioned is also called cambric. You can find it cheap at JoAnn's.
Great video! Could I use felt material to lay over the insulation?
Wow man. Good job man. I will just throw some stinky carpet roll in a corner, I have a rug till the basement floods. Always two layers of r-19 insulation. That is just for my wife. She doesn't like to hear all my crap. To each their own. Mic's can hide a lot of stuff. I like the sound of a wide open room with concrete walls. How I came up. Cool how you can adjust the panels, and change the room. Cool man =)
very great job !
Fab Voixoffnet thank you
Thank you for the video. Without building any kind of support, do you find any kind of issue with the insulation sagging in the middle of the panel?
Thank you. Great video.
Thank you too!
Just an FYI. It wasn’t about the screws. The fact that you used plywood on the ends was a great idea because that will not split no matter what screw you use and the pine won’t split when you screw into the end grain. So it was your process that was good, it wasn’t the screw.
Awesome idea with the weed fabric.
Man o man, you're on repeat....what would di you use for the side wall slats...it looks like some type of finished wood and what thickness. I love your videos, now I'm changing some things up. You are so very in depth...Thanks
Producer Reef thank you! So I used 1/4in Baltic finish grade birch on the sidewalks
You say they didn't split any wood, but we totally can see the wood cracking and splitting when you put them in. You need to predrill.
They're less prone to splitting because of the design, that does not mean they will never split wood...
Verry good Video. And I`m sure you know what yo`re doing. Using the expensive but just real good old german Spax screws made me trust in and subscribe.
All the best from Frankenstein (Germany)
Chris
Fabric isn't going to prevent those particles from coming through the fabric. I would simply stay away from building insulation altogether for not only health reasons, and for optimal absorption coefficient curve.
The tests for rock wool are good for sound absorption. It absorbs both low and high frequencies, and is used in many many many studios. It's also far safer than fibreglass. Is it absolutely safe? No, I wouldn't put a bunch around my bed, but it does break down and get cleared from your lungs.
Jimmy yes, I'm aware of that, but it's not meant for acoustic treatment. It's for thermal insulation and absorbtion in a residential home to be used in a wall cavity. The problem with building insulation is that for mid's and high's, it over absorbs in the 125hz to 500 hz range. For using in a low frequency pressure activated device, it's not porous enough as a full material.
For mid's and high's,
Look at the Fletcher Munsen hearing curve, at the range between 125hz and 500hz. It actually has a nice smooth slope. There are other products designed to that curve, which will yield a more natural quality.
@@Oneness100 Can you name some of the safer to use materials to replace rockwool? Thanks!
@@devalah After using and being in rooms with a lot of different materials from different companies, the best sounding absorption product that I have found was the acoustic foam from a company called Acoustic Fields. The reasoning is they have developed their own foam which has an abosption coefficient that's closely matched to human hearing. If you look at the absorption curve of the Fletcher Munsen hearing curve at the frequency range of 125hz to 1000hz, there is a gradual slope. What happens with most building insulation is that they weren't designed for that curve. Most of them were designed for thermal inslutiaon and sound absorption to be used inside a wall.. Acoustic treatment for music/speech has to be developed for that application.
Now, after doing a lot of research and reading, the reasons why most people use Building insulation is for the wrong reasons. They use it because it's readily available, it's cheap and up until fairly recently, that's about all that people knew about. Being that Acoustic Fields is a small company and doesn't have the shear marketing power that these other companies have, not a lot of people have used it. Also, if you look at their videos of customers that have switched, they have typically switched from using building insuatlion, like RockWool or some other traditional absorption material. And I heard the exact same thing they did. It's just a more natural sound quality and if you are a recording engineer, you probably won't have to touch the EQ all that much because you don't have to compensate for the absorption curve of the material you are using.
Also, Acoustic Fields had absolutely the best low frequency absorption products on the market. They figured out to use activated carbon, which they have patents on and I read a study that was done in the UK at a University where they tested activated carbon and it is actually effective down to even 20hz, which no other material can do. It's due to the density and it's porosity of activated carbon. it's very cool, indeed. They are expensive, but they are the most effective.
I know, I sound like an advertisement, but I'm just recommending their products after using and have been in studios that used the traditional materials. Without a doubt the Acoustic Field's room I was in was just absolutely head and shoulders the best sounding room I've ever been in..
the first thing to do in ANY room where you are dealing with full range speakers and/or instruments is to deal with the low frequencies. The reason is they are the most difficult to deal with and it's the most expensive. Once you get a handle on the low frequencies under 100hz, then dealing with mid's and high's above 100hz is easier, but you can better hear the differences in materials.
go and check out their video catalog, they have hundreds of short videos ranging from general information, to more specific information about acoustic treatment. And they even cater to the DIYer, so you can just buy the raw materials from them to build your own frame for acoustic foam with a fabric covering, etc.
Amazing! My respects.
Superb video. I'm so inspired by your ideas!!! Thanks, you just saved me about $1000.00.
Great vídeo! Thanks
Glad you liked it!
15:25 speaker tripod stand, good idea. I’ll take that thanks !
Laura Brown piss off, spammer.
I'm building a basement studio. I just scooped a bunch of panels that are 5X2X2" - I'm concerned about the sound in the room, but I'm equally concerned about the sound traveling upstairs and disrupting my family whether that be during the day, or in the evening. I'll definitely check out your other videos. I was curious if I was going to use panels on the ceiling would it be beneficial to do panels butted up against one another creating a total drop ceiling of panels? Thanks!
Much respect for your work!
I am in the process of building my own studio and I wonder what to cover the walls filled with wool so that it does not dust. What do you think, are two layers of fabric or one layer of foil and fabric will be enough?
Hey please what is the density of the insulation used?
Great explanation! Thanks) 🤓👍
HELP! 5 QUESTIONS
Does anyone think having panels with an open back would help reduce some of the airborne noise coming from traffic outside? And would having the panel a certain distance from the wall (e.g. 2") help with reducing airborne noise from outside by deadening it in the panel? I am hoping to deaden some of this airborne traffic noise in the audio of my videos. I am going to be doing videos of a person speaking and I have a really beautiful looking Room but the traffic has a lot of a low rumbling frequencies I need to reduce. I also would like to know, is there is a microphone that would be better for isolating the speaker away from those airborne noises? If panels may help reduce some of that airborne traffic noise coming in how thick should I make them? Lastly does anyone have any tips on reducing the airborne traffic coming into this room, other than demolitioning the walls to decouple new walls. I keep thinking that there must be some sort of way to erect acoustic panels/partitions or curtains around the subject in an attractive way or less preferably an acoustic fence around the front and sides of the building. Or maybe even some sort of dence acoustic shade (e.g. MLV) outside of the building that I can pull down during sessions. I'm hoping that simply putting panels up on the walls and maybe some standing panels/partitions around the subject will be sufficient along with some sort of microphone that will focus mostly on the subject. Please help!
What is the final fabric ?
Tell us more about the cabinets mounted in the walls.
If your talking about the soffit mounted speakers, it was mentioned a few times in my full studio build series
Right on, I've watched and search and didn't see anything. Thanks anyway.
axe76man they are my custom built monitor speakers that I built using three-quarter inch MDF, two 8 inch woofers, with a three-way crossover.
2:35 pre drilling is so you don't split the wood. Also makes a much stronger connection. Pre drilling is always recommended in cheaper wood if you want it to last.
I’m inclined to box/finger joint those panel frames instead of using screws. Bad idea?
ello my brother
I'm finishing 11 ft x16 ft recording study
How many acoustic panels would you need? use thanks for your answer greets you Nilson guevara music- my youtobe
I found I liked GRK Fasteners much better when it came to large Lag Screws. They have been my best friend in different construction projects. Easy to reuse again and again if you need temporary holding power.
You can quite literally drive one completely through a 2x4. Great for straightening out warped wood.
great video buddy , I just have a simple question to ask . can I cover the backing fabric around the rock wool and then insert the rock wool inside and after doing that I apply everything the front fabric and the back fabric . is that ok will it effect and absorb less. and also another question can I apply a half inch foam after the rock wool covered by backing fabric , just to seal it right . >? looking forward for your help and great video buddy
Why have a frame at all? Why not just make pillows or cushions and hang them all over the place?
Can get some really cheap boxes, crates or containers of different sizes and fill them with insulation, wrap in fabric. Been thinking about doing this.
I have an honest question or two. Why does the fabric have to be acoustically transparent? In my view the fabric need only be absorbative and of course hold back fibers; then the fabric only acts as an enhancement to the panel. I have seen some liberal ways of building panels where panel builders use super thin plastic to wrap the mineral wool in to prevent fibers in the air. Think dry cleaning bag thickness ish. It might reflect the super high frequencies that we probably want in a room but absorbs most of the others frequencies that are annoying.
Another question is; why did you use plywood on the shorter ends of the panels rather than just pine? stability? By the way, spax are great! I still pre drill to with a countersink bit to avoid the screw showing through the fabric but in the east some of the pine is super shitty, so I glue as well.
Oh and the hole idea is brilliant. I guess large waves won't fit but smaller ones will!
@@jonwikan3986 idk but i'm not sure that plastic can reflect a lot of freqs. for the lower end of spectre plastic is nothing.
@@RupasCoherence Sorry I miss worded that plastic statement. The very very thin plastic allows all frequencies to pass through it except those extreme highs. The idea is to keep some of that extreme high end in the room and the rest to be absorbed by the panel. The thin plastic allows you to block any fiberglass or mineral wool particles to stay out of your room with the added benefit of keeping the wanted high end. Often rooms need a lot of treatment and over absorb the very top frequencies while dampening everything below it just fine.
Which mineralwool are you using? Great Video! Thx
Those two layers wont stop any fiberglass... its very microscopic
Thank you for the tutorial. I don't have the cash to purchase high end professiomal room treatments. I'm not building a recording studio. I just want a dedicated listening room.
Also, quadratic is the best type of diffusor. Those other things you have aren't good diffusors as they don't conform to all of the requirements of a diffusor.
But this is an absorber. Not a diffuser.
@@2112jonr Yes, I know, but he has things that some people THINK are a Diffusor in the background at around 9:15.
@@2112jonr And he also talks about making an absorber/diffusors at about 13:00 to about 13:20
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why are you using building insulation in the first place? What was the technical reason to use it?
Insulation, particularly mineral wool and rigid fiberglass, absorb low frequency waves more effectively than acoustic foam, etc. It's the low frequencies that are typically the most problematic in your recording studio.
@@iamsamori The problem is that for proper low frequency absorption from 100hz and below you really need a pressure activated absorption rather than velocity. Foam, building insulation are velocity based.
The problem with building insulation, mineral wool, fiberglass is that the absorption coefficient was not really designed for acoustic treatment and their absorption coefficient curves don't have a nice smooth curve that matches well with human hearing.
As far as foam is concerned, there are different brands and types of acoustic foam on the market. Generally they do not have similar absorption coefficient curves to each other, so to simply generalize them as just foam would be incorrect. You really have to look at the absorption coefficient curves to get one that does well from 125hz and above, but also has a nice natural slope so that it matches to human hearing. If you look at the Fletcher Munsen hearing curve and look at the 125hz to 1,000hz which are the 3 main octave ranges in the midrange area, it has a smooth slope to it.
Now for low frequencies below 125hz, they are best handled with a pressure activated device.
There are three main types of this, however, the problem is that they have different levels of effectiveness, so the most effective would be diaphragmatic, followed by Membrane (similar to diaphragmatic but with less mass) and then Helmholtz resonators.
But first you have to calculate or measure what low frequencies you have problems with, the amplitude of these frequencies that are giving you the most problems and where in the room they are located.
Contrary to popular belief, low frequency issues that are the most problematic are the Axial and the are between 2 walls, or floor to ceiling some times you might find them with distributions between each wall.
It can get rather complicated as to what one really needs to "fix" the room mode problems in small rooms, and they generally require a LOT of area coverage to really manage them well.
Now, with pressure activated devices, you can get some with a velocity based material (foam, etc.) to handle the mid range/higher frequencies, but the pressure activated devices generally are tailored more for the lower frequencies only.. Obviously, the design and materials will determine their effectiveness..
SO, it really requires a combination of velocity AND pressure activated devices, enough room coverage, and then once you get that dealt with, then you can deal with diffusion.
Oneness100 It’s generally accepted in the industry that mineral wool and rigid fiberglass are the way to go in terms of acoustic absorption in recording studios. In fact, you can always use techniques such as super chunks, etc. to have 6” or more of absorption for your corner bass traps. I’ve personally seen the effectiveness in many applications (studios, churches, etc.). I definitely appreciate your line of thinking. But, I would say for most recording studio applications (especially smaller rooms and home studios) you can’t go wrong with mineral wool or rigid fiberglass. Particularly if you focus on coverage (as you stated), thickness, and corner bass traps.
@@iamsamori generally accepted but what actually performs better are two different things. I met someone that has his own acoustic treatment company and developed their own acoustic foam and they paid close attention to the absorption coefficient curves. Being open minded, I was curious, so I went and visited one of his test rooms they had about 7 or so years ago. Their room was far more "natural" sounding than ANY room I've been in that used fiberglass, mineral wool, etc. In fact, I've had acoustic treatment using fiberglass, mineral wool, Auralex and Sonex foam and NONE of these materials sounded anywhere near as good as this company's room using their own materials.
They have also gone to many recording studios that normally was using either Mineral wool or Fiberglass and they compared using this company's foam and the foam sounded better and many of those recording studios switched over after first hand listening tests.
In fact, Capitol Record's Mastering room now uses their products which incorporate their acoustic foam, diagaphramatic absorption and quadratic diffusors and they sonic difference is huge.
There are other studios and engineers that have done their own listening tests and have adopted this company's foam and diaphragmatic absorption with superior results.
Just because others use mineral wool or fiberglass is mostly for several reasons. One, until not that long ago, that's pretty much all that's been available. And it's cheap. The company I'm referring to is a small company with a small marketing budget, and they haven't been around that long so not many people actually know about them. But over time, more and more are actually taking the time checking their products out and they have been converting people over slowly.
It's just a matter of people finding out and trying out their products.
But going by general way of doing things isn't necessary the ONLY or the best method..
I was skeptical until I checked out their products, but after first hand listening, I was convinced. I actually wouldn't recommend anything else.
Oneness100 I hear you. But, still not sold. I’m 100% on effectiveness. And, it’s been very well established that mineral wool and rigid fiberglass are most effective. Can you give me a link to the ATSM chart for the acoustic foam that you’re referring to? There are very few acoustic labs that are certified to test accurately below 100 Hz. But, if you have data for their effectiveness below 100 Hz it would be great to see that too.
Good idea
Finally! I've been looking for DIY vid that covers up info about insulation and air pollution
For making panel, If i done have fiberglass, can it be use coushion?
correction "Done", "Don't"
Does this helps the sound to not come out of the room?
No...this is sound absorption. You’re talking about sound proofing.
whats is the white cloth ?
Bed sheets!
how do you know if your fabric is "acoustically transparent"?
Marcelo Suarez I was was looking for that answer
If you breathe into the fabric and feel your breath on the other side, it is good for acoustic treatment.