I used the same method you did using the valve grinding compound and not only did it smooth my trigger pull, but it also lightened the trigger pull weight from 7 pounds to 5 pounds....this really works and does not change any angles on the sear and hammer claws... Canada.
1:52 NEVER DROP THE HAMMER INSIDE THE TRIGGER HOUSING - the housing was not meant to take the impact of the hammer. When doing a function check with the housing separated from the action, follow the hammer down with your fingers.
You can actually keep the hammer squeezed in the crotch of your thumb and forefinger, and keep repeating it. Do not keep dry firing, it puts great stress in the frame, and the hammer pin.
Just worked up a load of 168 Hornady ELD Match for my scout squad. The results of two five shot groups at 100 yards was 1.8 MOA and 2.1 MOA. The best 3 shot in my OCW test was .61 MOA.
@@shaneclark5596 nice groups> are you glass bedded? Whats ur fav primers. lol My fav dope ,168gn SMK with 41.5gn h4895 winchester large rifle primers :0 I have yet to glass bed or shim the gasblock And have got groups sizes similar but still getting 1 inch flyers from time to time. I got an ma1 just to prove a point> with some load workup and light tuning the m1a can be a tac driver. Store bought ammo is 4 to 6 moa absolutely trash.I will have to try 168gn eld match. good luck and may ur targets always have 1 hole after a string of 5 shots :0
NZ here. Thanks, I am going to give this a go for sure. My trigger is a beast so if I can improve it any I should be able to get close to one inch three shot groups.
Very nice. I really didn't want to have to disassemble my trigger group. If i pull super slow on my trigger I can feel it grind about once or twice before firing. Not a very smooth break. I'm sure this would help.
Why wouldn't you polish the sear with a buffing wheel and a polishing compound. And actually take a measurement of the lbs and pull? Perform some measure of control.
A buffing wheel will round off the edges. Real gunsmiths use honing stones. There are many books and articles about how to do it, especially since the M1 Garand and the M14 have nearly identical trigger groups. Be careful, if you don't know what you are doing you can have all manner of dangerous things happen. Slam fires, and going full auto are possible, and also accidental discharges. There is a reason the National matches don't allow trigger pulls less than 4 1/2 pounds. It's not safe.
valve lapping compound is the worst thing you can do to your trigger. Its like sand in there. I used 1000 g sand papers to smooth out all the machining marks and then dremel polish all moving parts . I have a 2 stage 3 pound 7 ounce trigger now :) loonie groups at 50 yards with pmc 308.
it worked perfect for me. trigger is butter smooth and much lighter feeling. I am getting just about 1 moa at 100 meters. but before the trigger job it was about 3 inches
So is there no risk of the now unfinished/unparkerized rusting?Like say one time you put your rifle in the safe but for whatever reason, you didn't get any lube/protectant on the polished surfaces. You live on the West Coast where unprotected steel will have bloom on it by morning. Before long the oxidization has eaten-away at the exposed steel like a cancerous prostate tumor and the surfaces are pockmarked and rough.Hey I'm ALL about always having my firearms performing at their highest possible level. I want light, clean breaking triggers and shiny bores.Companies don't perform extra work or spend money where unnecessary.The trigger group's parts are coated/protected for a reason and it is not cosmetic.I have a prediction.10 years after the first youtube DIY trigger/gun mod videos, a LOT of firearms are going to be in pretty rough and rusty shape.
i would believe that most people that store or put away a gun in the cocked action so the hammer would be seated on its sear with lube (hopefully) and because its seated perfectly i would asse the rust would have a very hard time forming with out oxygen. my trigger after only about 300 to 400 rounds through it had the finnish worn down to the steel. I have never seen rust there but i guess in a near ocean city you could increase tho odds of it happening. im interested in taking a close look now, i havent shoot it in a long time. thanks for you question. im curious now to see that mine looks like
NEVER put any gun away with the trigger cocked. Dry fire on a snap cap, and take the tension off the hammer spring. The spring can take a set, and lose tension and will fail to fire.
I cycled the trigger using the valve grinding compound about 200 cycles and made a huge improvement. Thanks for the video and sharing.
still shoots better with a smooth trigger
I used the same method you did using the valve grinding compound and not only did it smooth my trigger pull, but it also lightened the trigger pull weight from 7 pounds to 5 pounds....this really works and does not change any angles on the sear and hammer claws... Canada.
lastchapter thats awesome to hear
1:52 NEVER DROP THE HAMMER INSIDE THE TRIGGER HOUSING - the housing was not meant to take the impact of the hammer. When doing a function check with the housing separated from the action, follow the hammer down with your fingers.
yeah i didnt think that was a good idea.
I was cringing every time he did that!
I don't think dropping the hammer for a video 6 times will kill it, yall are freaking out over nothing
You can actually keep the hammer squeezed in the crotch of your thumb and forefinger, and keep repeating it. Do not keep dry firing, it puts great stress in the frame, and the hammer pin.
Yup never had a problem. It’s an over build tool I was just breaking it in.
Just worked up a load of 168 Hornady ELD Match for my scout squad. The results of two five shot groups at 100 yards was 1.8 MOA and 2.1 MOA. The best 3 shot in my OCW test was .61 MOA.
need to get under 1.5, have you bedded the receiver yet?
What powder have you found to be most accurate ? I've had good luck imr4895
@@bearbait2221 I had better luck with H4895. 41.6 averages 1.1 MOA for me in 5 shot groups. Smallest 5 shot has been .49.
@@patriotkieler9750 No I use a vltor stock on my Scout and a EBR chassis on my other.
@@shaneclark5596 nice groups> are you glass bedded? Whats ur fav primers. lol My fav dope ,168gn SMK with 41.5gn h4895 winchester large rifle primers :0 I have yet to glass bed or shim the gasblock And have got groups sizes similar but still getting 1 inch flyers from time to time. I got an ma1 just to prove a point> with some load workup and light tuning the m1a can be a tac driver. Store bought ammo is 4 to 6 moa absolutely trash.I will have to try 168gn eld match. good luck and may ur targets always have 1 hole after a string of 5 shots :0
NZ here. Thanks, I am going to give this a go for sure. My trigger is a beast so if I can improve it any I should be able to get close to one inch three shot groups.
Bryan Moore perfect glad I could help. how did it turn out
Very nice. I really didn't want to have to disassemble my trigger group. If i pull super slow on my trigger I can feel it grind about once or twice before firing. Not a very smooth break. I'm sure this would help.
This is awesome but don’t let the hammer dry fire all the time🤔
I just did it to polish the sear
How woud you smooth out the safety which is also very stiff?
ArimaKihe1 never looked i to this
Proper grease in safety help me alot. Mine was crazy tight.
Remove it, and stone it. If you don't know what you are doing messing with trigger assemblies is dangerous. I was taught by an Air Force armorer.
ALWAYS use a wood block to drop the hammer on, NEVER against the housing !
Well that’s a good tip but I don’t have this anymore. Canadian government said it’s to dangerous for civilians to own
It makes me sick how much bullshit information is out there. Jesus. Stop dry firing that thing
Why wouldn't you polish the sear with a buffing wheel and a polishing compound. And actually take a measurement of the lbs and pull? Perform some measure of control.
Dave Darling the pull doesnt matter to me but it was very gritty so my only mission was to make it smooth. Mission accomplished
A buffing wheel will round off the edges. Real gunsmiths use honing stones. There are many books and articles about how to do it, especially since the M1 Garand and the M14 have nearly identical trigger groups. Be careful, if you don't know what you are doing you can have all manner of dangerous things happen. Slam fires, and going full auto are possible, and also accidental discharges. There is a reason the National matches don't allow trigger pulls less than 4 1/2 pounds. It's not safe.
I never had an issue with mine in any way shape or form after doing this. The only change was a much nicer feeling trigger pull
valve lapping compound is the worst thing you can do to your trigger. Its like sand in there. I used 1000 g sand papers to smooth out all the machining marks and then dremel polish all moving parts . I have a 2 stage 3 pound 7 ounce trigger now :) loonie groups at 50 yards with pmc 308.
it worked perfect for me. trigger is butter smooth and much lighter feeling. I am getting just about 1 moa at 100 meters. but before the trigger job it was about 3 inches
You had better rethink this. The National Matches won't allow any trigger in competition less than 4 1/2 pounds, as they are not safe.
Sigh.. Let an expert work on your M14 trigger.
A Perfect M14 trigger is phenomenal.
99.99% of people won't be able to get that kinda results
So is there no risk of the now unfinished/unparkerized rusting?Like say one time you put your rifle in the safe but for whatever reason, you didn't get any lube/protectant on the polished surfaces. You live on the West Coast where unprotected steel will have bloom on it by morning. Before long the oxidization has eaten-away at the exposed steel like a cancerous prostate tumor and the surfaces are pockmarked and rough.Hey I'm ALL about always having my firearms performing at their highest possible level. I want light, clean breaking triggers and shiny bores.Companies don't perform extra work or spend money where unnecessary.The trigger group's parts are coated/protected for a reason and it is not cosmetic.I have a prediction.10 years after the first youtube DIY trigger/gun mod videos, a LOT of firearms are going to be in pretty rough and rusty shape.
i would believe that most people that store or put away a gun in the cocked action so the hammer would be seated on its sear with lube (hopefully) and because its seated perfectly i would asse the rust would have a very hard time forming with out oxygen. my trigger after only about 300 to 400 rounds through it had the finnish worn down to the steel. I have never seen rust there but i guess in a near ocean city you could increase tho odds of it happening. im interested in taking a close look now, i havent shoot it in a long time. thanks for you question. im curious now to see that mine looks like
Blaren 1, BULLSHIT, Don't worry about it. Triggers will NOT be rusted in 10, 20 years. Just shoot, clean, oil and put it away.
NEVER put any gun away with the trigger cocked. Dry fire on a snap cap, and take the tension off the hammer spring. The spring can take a set, and lose tension and will fail to fire.
nothing like hillbilly gunsmithing on a nice boomstick.
You bet