ATTENTION: Before watching this and installing your cooler: Read thid first!! This is not the proper arrangement of the lines. First of all, hats off to the poster for doing the work and posting a very detailed video as many of the others just pointed at stuff and not very decriptive, or just bypassing the radiator cooler but this was very detailed, but the line placement is wrong. I have installed it in the exact way this was done here but my transmission was still running very hot and still went in to safe mode once. It would be fine on the freeway but when coming to a stop or driving on the street I would be smelling the transmission fluid and felt so hot under the hood that I couldnt even touch the plastic air filter inlet and im surprised it didnt melt but thankfully I still had a transmission. I finally went back here and read the comments and there were many here that mentions this was wrong and explained the order which should be done if running with the stock cooler.The proper way is done is as follows. Keep the original line from the transmission that leads to the BOTTOM of the radiator on, you do not need to replace it. Remove the line that runs from the transmission to the TOP of the radiator (the longer line that runs to the radiator next to the battery). Run a new line from the TOP of the radiator (the one you just removed) down to the BOTTOM line on the new aux cooler (do not hook to the top, the fluid has to run UPWARD). Take your new line from the TOP the new cooler and run it back in to the only line removed from the transmission (remember, just keep the old line that runs to the bottom of the radiator). Once I did that, it runs far cooler and I can lift the hood without melting my face and can touch the air intake even after a much longer in city drive. I read all of the comments here and though a few tend to think its fine like this, many more claim it should be done this way and by experience as at least for me, it seems like this is the proper way. I think the poster did even mention to one person that this was actually the right way instead of what was shown on the video.
Thanks brother, For how much time you have done that for your car? I’m wondering about the pressure drop from that long distance and the upward movement 😅
Thank you for making this video. The other videos were confusing. You are the only one that explained it thoroughly where the connections are. we really do appreciate all your help thank you again
Great video. Theres a ton of how tos out here and this is one of the best ones HOWEVER ive discovered if you remove the fans this job is 1000 times easier and you dont even need to get under the car!!!!
The return line, on the car radiator.. should be used as the input line to the new cooler, and should be placed on the lower or lowest input on the new cooler.. The reasoning behind this, is to prevent foaming or trapped air in the system...
@@kapp_1179 Yes, he went the opposite of how its supposed to be done. Run from the "top" return line of rad, to bottom of aux cooler. Then out the top of the aux into the return on the behive. His way has it cycling through the aux cooler first, then into the rad cooler, then to the trans. Wrong way.
Actually the direction of flow (from one cooler to the other) is still correct, even though he thought it was reversed. He has it coming from the trans to the bottom of the aux cooler, then from the top of the aux cooler to the primary cooler and the top of the primary cooler back to the trans. This should keep the trans fluid at the best temp as it re-enters the trans, as Nissan intended the primary cooler to keep it at the correct temp (even though they screwed the pooch on the size of the primary cooler)...
I was under the impression that those rubber pads shown in your video, actually go between the cooler and the radiator to cushion the cooler and prevent any movement from bending the fins. Is that correct or not?
Probably one of the best videos out there for this, I need to add a trans cooler to my maxima and this is very helpful. Although I am thinking of getting the Altima OEM trans cooler but we shall see
My cvt trans is making whining noise with higher rpms, and once it gets too hot at like 70 mph for 5 mins, it goes into safe mode and stops accelerating. Its also puking from overflow tube when it gets hot, I want to put a better cooler kit than oem. Can i use a different one that holds more coolant?
Is this the same thing for a 2008 Nissan Sentra? I hear the 08 Sentras and other Nissans of this year are notorious for the transmission fluid heating up and the car runs terrible. I changed the cvt fluid in my mom's 08 Sentra and this car is still holding back after it heats up. I hear this fixes the problem! I just never did this type of job and I wanna make sure I do it correctly... Thanks
Others are buying factory cooler with four tubes and install together with aftermarket transmission cooler, and others just disconnect pipes from the current installed factory transmission cooler and take the pipes from the after market transmission cooler and connect it to the return hose pipe and the inlet pipe of the transmission direct. What is your opinion, what do you think is the best? ? Is it necessary for the new cooler to be working along with the existing cooler?
The return line, which is the top line coming out of the radiator, should be routed to the bottom of the new cooler and then back from the top of the new cooler to the transmission.
I'm sorry i'm new to this car and I'm doing this as a preemptive work, is the transmission cooler running ATF in it, or antifreeze? I thought the car transmission was cooled by antifreeze in that little exchanger it has on the side of the transmission. So what are you cooling with this radiator? The ATF or the Antifreeze?
Sorry to say you're running that backwards Nissan's flow is made to run from the bottom up so you need to reverse that your top radiator hose should be going to the bottom of your new transmission cooler than your new top one goes to the return line on your transmission
I agree. The top transmission cooling line is the return, so disconnect the hose from the nipple, run new hose from nipple to aux cooler, then from aux cooler to the return hose to the transmission. You can use a barb connector and clamps to attach the two hoses. That would properly complete the loop. There is another tech posting a video about nissan aux cooler installation and he explains that the outlet line from the transmission (with the hot fluid) goes into the lower nipple on the radiator and the fluid travels upwards through the radiators internal trans cooler and exits out of the top nipple and then returns to the transmission.
Wouldn’t this be even better? The point to hooking up the transmission to the radiator is to not only cool the tranny, but heat it up. If it is run through the cooler first then the radiator, it would be able to cool better and heat up just as well as it did before. Transmissions have a peak operating temperature, too cool and it just won’t work right. Too hot and it will melt shit. Idk though. I didn’t engineer this shitty transmission. I’m here like the rest of ya’ll trying to make it last longer than a apple falling from a tree.
Dogunbound hounds Assuming this Altima has a CVT. CVTs are much more sensitive to temperature differentiations so they tend to have a small happy spot while running. Too cool, you’ll blow the transmission. Too hot, you’ll blow the transmission.
@@Iridiumcosmos That is why I am putting a thermostatic bypass valve on mine. The cold winters where I live would over cool the fluid so I need to be able to keep it at 180 degrees without letting it cool too excessively.
How did the car run after you put this on ? Would your cvt go into safe mode after getting really hot before you had put the cooler on ? And I seen on amazon that they have the 514 and the 516 would the bigger number be better I’m assuming ? I just want to make sure I’m getting the right one
Car runs great with it, no issues at all, the trans never went into safe mode because of heat but after doing some research I found that the cvt doesnt discharge heat as good as it should so when I serviced the trans I figured I would install the cooler just in case. It really doesnt matter how big of a cooler you get, of course bigger cooler means more cooling but it also means its gonna require more fluid as well, its just whatever you prefer, the one I went with does the job just fine and doesnt block too much of the radiator and condenser, want to be sure they both still get good airflow through them.
i think that must be diferent. fhe outline goto the bottom.of the original radiator then from.the top of the original radiator must go to the bottom of the external oil coler then from the top of the external oil cooler to the return line of the cvt.
@@Stevendagr8 I added this cooler while doing a drain and fill of the transmission, I didn't have to add anymore than a normal drain and fill, around 5.5qts as normal, haven't had any issues at all and the transmission runs between 150 and 180° in stop and go traffic.
Leave the line running to the bottom of your radiator, take the top line from the radiator and run it to the bottom of the aftermarket cooler, then run from the top of the aftermarket cooler back to the transmission.
I drained the transmission completely before I installed the cooler, only because it was time for a fluid change, but I put a tiny bit more fluid back in than came out, best way to do it is add fluid, let the car run for a few minutes, check the fluid level, add if needed, then drive around the block, check fluid level, add fluid of needed.
I seen other videos say to put the in flow on the bottom to prevent foaming but if that were the case then why does the factory inlet on the radiator go in the top?
@Bruce Mcdermit i bought this kind of cooler i want to install it but geting confused about these hose pipes from the Nissan car which one is the inlet and which one is the return. Kindly help.me so that it may not foam inside transmission.
The stock transmission cooler on the alitma does not sufficiently cool the fluid, the main reason for transmission failure in the 2.5 altimas is overheating, this helps to cool the fluid and therfore lengthens the life of the transmission.
The maximas have the 3.5l engine, the transmission that goes with that engine has a better cooling system than the 2.5l engine does and usually doesn't fail due to overheating, generally the transmission in the 3.5 has issues with the push belt falling apart but that doesn't sound like a whistling sound, check your fluid level and possible change the fluid, that could fix the problem.
I added the cooler at the same time that I changed the transmission fluid, so all in all it took about 6 quarts, the extra cooler doesn't hold very much fluid so you dont have to add much more than you would with a normal drain and fill.
My Gen IV Thanks. i’m not changing fluid now - maybe later. so i might not need to add more than a cup or so it sounds like - unless i loose a lot during install. This thing has 180k miles and not sure if ever had cvt fluid change. nissan called it a total trans failure 3 years ago after a limp mode episode- 6months after buying it and my wife has driven it to work (no hills or mountains) with minimal problems ever since. just thought i would try this to see if it whines less or maybe can handle some hills if cvt is kept cool.
Sometimes changing fluid will stop the whine, it usually whines because of excessive heat buildup, an aftermarket cooler will help to regulate the temp and should help prolong the life of the transmission.
![[Tutorial] Install Transmission Oil Cooler Nissan Altima 2008/09/10/11/12/13/14](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/2A3BFsWO2sw/mqdefault.jpg)
![[Tutorial] Install Transmission Oil Cooler Nissan Altima 2008/09/10/11/12/13/14](/img/tr.png)
ATTENTION: Before watching this and installing your cooler: Read thid first!! This is not the proper arrangement of the lines. First of all, hats off to the poster for doing the work and posting a very detailed video as many of the others just pointed at stuff and not very decriptive, or just bypassing the radiator cooler but this was very detailed, but the line placement is wrong. I have installed it in the exact way this was done here but my transmission was still running very hot and still went in to safe mode once. It would be fine on the freeway but when coming to a stop or driving on the street I would be smelling the transmission fluid and felt so hot under the hood that I couldnt even touch the plastic air filter inlet and im surprised it didnt melt but thankfully I still had a transmission. I finally went back here and read the comments and there were many here that mentions this was wrong and explained the order which should be done if running with the stock cooler.The proper way is done is as follows. Keep the original line from the transmission that leads to the BOTTOM of the radiator on, you do not need to replace it. Remove the line that runs from the transmission to the TOP of the radiator (the longer line that runs to the radiator next to the battery). Run a new line from the TOP of the radiator (the one you just removed) down to the BOTTOM line on the new aux cooler (do not hook to the top, the fluid has to run UPWARD). Take your new line from the TOP the new cooler and run it back in to the only line removed from the transmission (remember, just keep the old line that runs to the bottom of the radiator). Once I did that, it runs far cooler and I can lift the hood without melting my face and can touch the air intake even after a much longer in city drive. I read all of the comments here and though a few tend to think its fine like this, many more claim it should be done this way and by experience as at least for me, it seems like this is the proper way. I think the poster did even mention to one person that this was actually the right way instead of what was shown on the video.
THANK YOU
Thanks brother, For how much time you have done that for your car? I’m wondering about the pressure drop from that long distance and the upward movement 😅
Thank you for making this video. The other videos were confusing. You are the only one that explained it thoroughly where the connections are. we really do appreciate all your help thank you again
Yes 🙌🏾 a lot of these videos are very confusing but this guy surely explains it easily 🙏🏽
Great explanation on where to hook up the lines. Other videos did not explain the flow of the transmission fluid. Great job. Thanks!!
Great video. Theres a ton of how tos out here and this is one of the best ones HOWEVER ive discovered if you remove the fans this job is 1000 times easier and you dont even need to get under the car!!!!
The return line, on the car radiator.. should be used as the input line to the new cooler, and should be placed on the lower or lowest input on the new cooler.. The reasoning behind this, is to prevent foaming or trapped air in the system...
So was he wrong
@@kapp_1179 Yes, he went the opposite of how its supposed to be done. Run from the "top" return line of rad, to bottom of aux cooler. Then out the top of the aux into the return on the behive. His way has it cycling through the aux cooler first, then into the rad cooler, then to the trans. Wrong way.
I totally agree that way don't bypass the original cooler on the Radiator
Best video and explaination I've found. Doing mine today!
Nice explaining on the correct way to install the trans cooler, great video!
Actually the direction of flow (from one cooler to the other) is still correct, even though he thought it was reversed. He has it coming from the trans to the bottom of the aux cooler, then from the top of the aux cooler to the primary cooler and the top of the primary cooler back to the trans. This should keep the trans fluid at the best temp as it re-enters the trans, as Nissan intended the primary cooler to keep it at the correct temp (even though they screwed the pooch on the size of the primary cooler)...
I was under the impression that those rubber pads shown in your video, actually go between the cooler and the radiator to cushion the cooler and prevent any movement from bending the fins. Is that correct or not?
Probably one of the best videos out there for this, I need to add a trans cooler to my maxima and this is very helpful. Although I am thinking of getting the Altima OEM trans cooler but we shall see
Did you get oem ? Or aftermarket ?? I got a Maxima too
making this video soon
My cvt trans is making whining noise with higher rpms, and once it gets too hot at like 70 mph for 5 mins, it goes into safe mode and stops accelerating. Its also puking from overflow tube when it gets hot, I want to put a better cooler kit than oem. Can i use a different one that holds more coolant?
09 altima 2.5 s
Mine was doing the same bro, just change the transmission oil, if you add the cooler even better
Is this the same thing for a 2008 Nissan Sentra? I hear the 08 Sentras and other Nissans of this year are notorious for the transmission fluid heating up and the car runs terrible. I changed the cvt fluid in my mom's 08 Sentra and this car is still holding back after it heats up. I hear this fixes the problem! I just never did this type of job and I wanna make sure I do it correctly...
Thanks
Others are buying factory cooler with four tubes and install together with aftermarket transmission cooler, and others just disconnect pipes from the current installed factory transmission cooler and take the pipes from the after market transmission cooler and connect it to the return hose pipe and the inlet pipe of the transmission direct. What is your opinion, what do you think is the best? ? Is it necessary for the new cooler to be working along with the existing cooler?
Will this work for a 08 Sentra. My mom's Sentras cvt transmission is heating up.... And it's not running right... I hear a transmission cooler helps.
The return line, which is the top line coming out of the radiator, should be routed to the bottom of the new cooler and then back from the top of the new cooler to the transmission.
How to know bottom and top of new cooler
Can you describe where the original hoses end up going to? Thanks man!
Still going strong?
I'm sorry i'm new to this car and I'm doing this as a preemptive work, is the transmission cooler running ATF in it, or antifreeze? I thought the car transmission was cooled by antifreeze in that little exchanger it has on the side of the transmission. So what are you cooling with this radiator? The ATF or the Antifreeze?
Sorry to say you're running that backwards Nissan's flow is made to run from the bottom up so you need to reverse that your top radiator hose should be going to the bottom of your new transmission cooler than your new top one goes to the return line on your transmission
I agree. The top transmission cooling line is the return, so disconnect the hose from the nipple, run new hose from nipple to aux cooler, then from aux cooler to the return hose to the transmission. You can use a barb connector and clamps to attach the two hoses. That would properly complete the loop. There is another tech posting a video about nissan aux cooler installation and he explains that the outlet line from the transmission (with the hot fluid) goes into the lower nipple on the radiator and the fluid travels upwards through the radiators internal trans cooler and exits out of the top nipple and then returns to the transmission.
Wouldn’t this be even better? The point to hooking up the transmission to the radiator is to not only cool the tranny, but heat it up.
If it is run through the cooler first then the radiator, it would be able to cool better and heat up just as well as it did before.
Transmissions have a peak operating temperature, too cool and it just won’t work right. Too hot and it will melt shit. Idk though. I didn’t engineer this shitty transmission. I’m here like the rest of ya’ll trying to make it last longer than a apple falling from a tree.
Dogunbound hounds Assuming this Altima has a CVT. CVTs are much more sensitive to temperature differentiations so they tend to have a small happy spot while running. Too cool, you’ll blow the transmission. Too hot, you’ll blow the transmission.
@@Iridiumcosmos That is why I am putting a thermostatic bypass valve on mine. The cold winters where I live would over cool the fluid so I need to be able to keep it at 180 degrees without letting it cool too excessively.
@@dogunboundhounds9649 🤣😂... Same.
How did the car run after you put this on ? Would your cvt go into safe mode after getting really hot before you had put the cooler on ? And I seen on amazon that they have the 514 and the 516 would the bigger number be better I’m assuming ? I just want to make sure I’m getting the right one
Car runs great with it, no issues at all, the trans never went into safe mode because of heat but after doing some research I found that the cvt doesnt discharge heat as good as it should so when I serviced the trans I figured I would install the cooler just in case.
It really doesnt matter how big of a cooler you get, of course bigger cooler means more cooling but it also means its gonna require more fluid as well, its just whatever you prefer, the one I went with does the job just fine and doesnt block too much of the radiator and condenser, want to be sure they both still get good airflow through them.
i think that must be diferent.
fhe outline goto the bottom.of the original radiator then from.the top of the original radiator must go to the bottom of the external oil coler then from the top of the external oil cooler to the return line of the cvt.
@@mygeniv8377 Did you have to add more Fluid or it’s just plug and play? Ready to go?
@@Stevendagr8 I added this cooler while doing a drain and fill of the transmission, I didn't have to add anymore than a normal drain and fill, around 5.5qts as normal, haven't had any issues at all and the transmission runs between 150 and 180° in stop and go traffic.
@My Gen IV if you don't mind can you send me the link that way I can purchase thank you
Can u show me a diagram of the return line to install a trans oil cooler.. im having troble and want to do the inseries
Leave the line running to the bottom of your radiator, take the top line from the radiator and run it to the bottom of the aftermarket cooler, then run from the top of the aftermarket cooler back to the transmission.
@@mygeniv8377 thankx bro,, do u have to top it off with more fluid after intalling the aftermarket transmission oil cooler?
Add a remote filter too
Best video!! Thanks
Did you add more fuild
I drained the transmission completely before I installed the cooler, only because it was time for a fluid change, but I put a tiny bit more fluid back in than came out, best way to do it is add fluid, let the car run for a few minutes, check the fluid level, add if needed, then drive around the block, check fluid level, add fluid of needed.
@@mygeniv8377 how much fluid did you end up adding in the end after the flush? Also do you have a link for this cooler???
about to do this on my girls 2012 altima but not running it like you are doing. the cool fluid should come from the top , opposite of what u are doing
You are right. Hot to the bottom!!!
I seen other videos say to put the in flow on the bottom to prevent foaming but if that were the case then why does the factory inlet on the radiator go in the top?
@Bruce Mcdermit i bought this kind of cooler i want to install it but geting confused about these hose pipes from the Nissan car which one is the inlet and which one is the return. Kindly help.me so that it may not foam inside transmission.
Any updates on the car? Is the cvt transmission still whining when you accelerate at high rpm?
No issues, transmission is nice and quiet.
My Gen IV I have a question so with the original line the ran back from the radiator to the transmission did you just discard it?
What is the purpose of this ??
The stock transmission cooler on the alitma does not sufficiently cool the fluid, the main reason for transmission failure in the 2.5 altimas is overheating, this helps to cool the fluid and therfore lengthens the life of the transmission.
@@mygeniv8377 i have a 2020 maxima and when i accelerate im hearing a light whistle sound im trying to see what is it?
The maximas have the 3.5l engine, the transmission that goes with that engine has a better cooling system than the 2.5l engine does and usually doesn't fail due to overheating, generally the transmission in the 3.5 has issues with the push belt falling apart but that doesn't sound like a whistling sound, check your fluid level and possible change the fluid, that could fix the problem.
@@mygeniv8377 thanks
@@mygeniv8377thats all nissan cvts. Theyre all weak.
how much cvt fluid did you add to top off after installation? thanks!
I added the cooler at the same time that I changed the transmission fluid, so all in all it took about 6 quarts, the extra cooler doesn't hold very much fluid so you dont have to add much more than you would with a normal drain and fill.
My Gen IV Thanks. i’m
not changing fluid now - maybe later. so i might not need to add more than a cup or so it sounds like - unless i loose a lot during install. This thing has 180k miles and not sure if ever had cvt fluid change. nissan called it a total trans failure 3 years ago after a limp mode episode- 6months after buying it and my wife has driven it to work (no hills or mountains) with minimal problems ever since. just thought i would try this to see if it whines less or maybe can handle some hills if cvt is kept cool.
Sometimes changing fluid will stop the whine, it usually whines because of excessive heat buildup, an aftermarket cooler will help to regulate the temp and should help prolong the life of the transmission.
@@Vidmr2407 with that many miles I would recommend a drain and fill only i would avoid flushing the transmission.
My Gen IV i will try the drain/fill at some point. thanks!