Multipitch Rescue Part 2: Hauling

This video explains how to go from belaying two climbers with an ATC or Reverso to a 3:1 haul system. Then transitions from a 3:1 haul to a 5:1 haul system. These are proven AMGA taught techniques for trad multipitch, sport climbing, or any outdoor climbing assistant/rescue techniques.
#haul #climbing #multipitch

[@daveaver]

Need to take a hands on class for exactly what you’ve shown.
Great video.

[@summitseekersexperience]

Please do!

[@likeyoinksscoob3258]

Great series so far Jason!

[@summitseekersexperience]

Thanks!! Got some good ones coming.

[@cristianromero6024]

I've learned so much from your videos, thank you for putting this series together!!

[@summitseekersexperience]

For sure

[@zeptosecond]

I love this stuff. Please keep it up. Makes me think about getting certified.

[@summitseekersexperience]

For sure, go for it!!

[@danutski]

Thanks so much for the valuable content and keep up the good work!

[@tadeasulrich2946]

So awesome, you're gonna save people with these videos

[@ianmcmillan2340]

As a gear nut I love this kind of stuff. I’m following along at home with my own set up.

[@summitseekersexperience]

awesome, glad you are able to follow along.

[@dungbug]

This is a great technique, thanks for the video.
I rarely if ever have cord with me, rather all my draws are 60cm slings. Would you change anything about your approach if using dynema slings as the prusik?

[@summitseekersexperience]

Mmmm… I don’t like using slings as prusiks… instead just use a normal prusik loop on some 6 mm cord and then clip it to your slings to get some length

[@vazap8662]

Great tut! I’ll need to put to practice in order to fully understand.
I do have one question. What if you were dealing with red rope rather than blue, when exiting/entering the atc loop into the temporarily unlocked biner. The fact that it would be opposite side of the gate, wouldn’t it get blocked by the blue rope?

[@VideoEngineering]

Turn the carabiner areound I would👍

[@vazap8662]

@@VideoEngineering of course, makes sense, great idea thanks!

[@svenfissiaux977]

Hiya, enjoying your vids! Anyone know where to buy the purple rope used for progress capture?

[@rickkrause3198]

With primitive equipment these are only theoretical mechanical advantages. I have done some load test and here are the results.
Max Pull Carabiner 2:1 Round Stock Carabiner 1.6
Max Pull Carabiner 2:1 Square Stock Carabiner 1.2
Max Pull Carabiner 3:1 Round Stock Carabiner 2.0
Max Pull Carabiner 3:1 Square Stock Carabiner 1.9
Max Pull GriGri 3:1 Round Stock Carabiner 1.9
Max Pull Carabiner 5:1 Round Stock Carabiner 3.3
Max Pull Carabiner 5:1 Square Stock Carabiner 2.8
Max Pull GriGri 5:1 Round Stock Carabiner 3.2
Max Pull GriGri 5:1 Complex Round Stock Carabiner 1.6
Max Pull Carabiner 6:1. Round Stock Carabiner 3.5
Max Pull Carabiner 6:1. Square Stock Carabiner 1.9
Max Pull GriGri 6:1 Round Stock Carabiner 3.4

[@ArtML]

With a prusik as progress capture and during sliding the progress capture knot, one has to keep the pull line under the full tension. It is likely to be extremely hard, especially if one hauls a weight of a climber.
Shouldn't one need some prusik limiter for the progress capture to keep it relaxed during pull, s.t. the rope could slide right through it, making the progress capture prusik work similar to most progress capture devices?

[@summitseekersexperience]

Negative, you will not be able to make it loose enough to essentially pass rope through, you want it to be tight…. The manual slide works fine if you got the hitch tied well.

[@xaviergorloo8050]

Awesome