Very nice restoration of this board and good call to disarm the battery charging circuit! Although I like the 486 platform, I don't get the feeling with this board. Maybe it is the layout or dimensions. Everything seems to be at the wrong place 🤣. Glad you like the tweezers!
You never want to *add* a diode to your CMOS 3V coin-cell battery. Diode has a voltage drop and even relatively fresh coin cell battery will be reported as empty. You did the right thing - find out, where the 5V charging voltage is coming in and sever that line instead. Good job!
mega repair, Tony! i was hoping you would get back to it. yesterday i replaced my ever first capacitor, it was fun but i did something wrong...cause the mosfet near the replaced capacitor, north of the chipset, gets so so hot, barely can touch it for 3 seconds, but the board, asus k8n, works, but i'm not comfortable with that high temp at all :) started doing this cause of you, BuB, vswitch, you all inspired me and i like it a lot :)
Amazing! Was that an SMD capacitor, did you use hot air? Semiconductors can cope with 300C+ temps for a limited time. That's how they're soldered at the factory. They cannot OPERATE at those temperatures. But as long as the mosfet stayed at that temp for a short time, you'll be ok. Make sure you give it time to cool down and don't try to speed up the cooling process! Well done with the job!
I jumped on the BuB channel after you previously suggested him, he's great! Somehow even watching him straighten many many many many CPU pins lately has been good!
Great repair. The tweezers I use are not exactly these but a similar model and size. I have 3 around at anytime and another 5 in case I broke the ones that I normally use. I may say that they are the best, but I know that the best tool is the one that does the job.
Many people don’t have the tools and skills Tony has and that’s okay. For many we do this as a hobby and do the best we can in the aspects that we enjoy with the time and funds that make sense. In this case it was a little accident that wasn’t supposed to happen that turned into a couple hours with the wrong tools that sparked an idea for a cool video. Don’t put others down for not being perfect at everything. There are things others can do that you can’t also.
@@morejiggawatts4992 That is very kind of you to say, that resonates with me as well! @Thorsten369 was just commenting on the soldering though, I didn't read that as being harsh to the user. But yes, let's be understanding, nobody is perfect - including myself of course! :)
Hi Tony -- see how the universe is conspiring? The model 80 board I have with the damaged VGA circuit has a perfect 386 socket for that cool interposer project.... :) Someday, you will have to do a model 80 restoration... it's inevitable :) --- I'm just teasing, great video as always!!
Great fix as always Tony. I wonder if it'd be possible to add maybe a tp4056 board in line with the holder. Adding a "LR2032" (I think its LR for rechargeable) to maintain that charging functionality. iirc some boards consume a lot of power from the cmos battery. So they can kinda chew through them.
It's an option indeed - I did forget to measure the current drawn by the BIOS. The 2032 makes things easier of course but a rechargeable makes things better! Thanks for watching!
3..2..1.. Chip 'n Dale Rescue Rangers for Sphere's 486 board. Not used parts like diods, I always left on board, slide one contact and soldered. At this time maybe for future NiHm battery.
Very good idea! In fact, I wanted to enclose the diode in the return box and... I forgot :) Well, it's a common item thankfully :) Thanks for watching!
wow brings back memories of my 486 4x100 with 8meg of ram mfm hard drive as didn't have a ide drive running windows 3.11 upgraded to win 95c with a soundblaster card and unknown video card that was supper long and high with heaps of chips on it and yes playing doom
Have you seen the destruction that epictronics has been putting up with? He's got a 486 board from Computer reset that had just an awful battery destruction. He does great work as well.
I have! That board is going to be famous for the number of jumpers! I have a more modern one with a crater on top - but I think there is way too much damage for me to consider fixing it. We'll see! Thanks for watching!
Younger generations will think that PC gaming was most boring thing ever back in the time. Only one game existed. :P Fun aside, I admire you for your tools. nice tweezers, proper PCB mask and a UV light, all the small things. And the big things too. Part of me wants to buy all if them part of me is like, no i don't deserve this. I am not even good enough for what I use now.
The thing is that I've never been a gamer! I was playing DOOM a bit on my 386 (no sound card, no cache... it was bad!) then I played UT and some others on and off - more OFF than ON! By all means, please do feel free to suggest more games I could use to test a DOS system! Thanks for watching and no worries, I also started from a bent screwdriver :)
Tony, nice video of repair but what if you go to higher level for a future video as suggestion by doing something crazy like this: Why not to mod a celeron motherboard with 66MHz FSB limit and upgrade to 100MHz or 133MHz to use Pentium III instead? For me this will be a creative modification for those motherboard limited by cheap Celeron CPUs at these slow old boards. Continue sharing your positive attitude at retro restore/upgrade challenges!!!!
Thanks for the idea! Let's say I like repairing things but this type of modding/overclocking is really not my cup of tea! Not saying it'll never happen but I think I'd rather find another broken board and try to fix it! Sphere - and others - can then mod the board to go to Warp 9 :) But who knows, I'm open to anything :) Thanks for watching!
19:42 I just wonder why We (as retro community members) don't use a rechargable versions of those cells called LIR2032 and stop bother about those diodes.
I have tried those rechargeable 2032 batteries in two boards. In both cases the battery got to about 70 degrees C. The charging voltage is a bit high and the current is way too high. I know this can be handled by simple passives, but in the end a diode and standard 2032 is the way to go. It is simple, inexpensive and works well
"It's a pretty simple board. As you can see, it's only CPU, FPU. Then we have expansion slots, RAM slots, some cache and that's it. Anything else, there's no controllers, there's nothing on this board. Everything else has to be on expansion cards." As it should be! Integrating everything onto the motherboard should never have happened. These minimal boards are much better from a repair and upgrade perspective. More to carry over between upgrades and less to go wrong, and thus easier to diagnose and fix when something does go wrong, and less to throw out if you can't fix it. The ATX I/O shield shouldn't have been a thing. Instead, it should have just been a space for a 120mm fan, given a major reason for the design of ATX was dealing with heat. The extra space between that and the current usage by the I/O shield could be used for extra expansion slots instead. We could potentially have gotten 9 slots instead of 7, a one-slot improvement over AT, rather than the downgrade we got with ATX.
Interesting point! I think it really depends on the use case. I'd say the majority of the users really don't care about that and a single board with all that's needed on it is simpler and has less failure points. If you consider that the main storage now is on the MoBo (SSD), you can have a decent PC on a single, small motherboard. Thanks for watching!
Water per se (as in pure water) is not conductive 🙂 I know it’s weird. It’s the salts and impurities dissolved in it which makes it conductive. You can check with your multimeter in resistance mode, stick the probes in a glass of distilled water and then add some salt. You should see the multimeter reading some resistance when salt is added. I don’t use de-oxit but a similar one which ‘enhances conductivity’. It might interfere with very low voltages (under 1V) and I would be careful with high voltage. But for a board which works at 5-12V it’s totally safe, it’s not so conductive to cause shorts. Same for de-oxit of course. Thanks for watching!
@@tony359 conductivity of these fluids is interesting for me. I know that pure water is not conductive but fluids like deoxit are not a pure water. In my country, Poland, we have spray called "Kontakt" with some numbers in the name and when I worked as a maintenance and troubleshooting technician in railway company my colleague used it on connectors for similar like car ABS system. I lost a loot of hours to find why this system don't want to work and since that time I didn't use fluids on electronic but I have to try again. I've seen many times how people use liquid on electronics in videos and I've wanted to ask about it for a long time. Thank you for your answer.
I think the one I am using used to be called Servisol S10 and now it's Kontakt 61 if memory serves. There is a warning about using it on signals below 1V - it might actually insulate some contacts - but I never had issues with computers. In fact, the S10 has revived contacts where the dry contact cleaner failed. I think the best way in your case would be to check with the manufacturer, they might be able to recommend a specific product.
I upgraded to the T48 recently, which is the one you see in the video - but the TL866II would also work well. If you need to buy it now, I'd go with the T48, it's the same price.
It's great that there are still hobbyists like you who put so much effort and passion into such restorations. We can really learn a lot from you.
Thanks for your kind words - and for watching!
Very nice restoration of this board and good call to disarm the battery charging circuit! Although I like the 486 platform, I don't get the feeling with this board. Maybe it is the layout or dimensions. Everything seems to be at the wrong place 🤣. Glad you like the tweezers!
Yes it reminds me an early 286 board I have. Very basic, very crude! But also very cute! Thanks for watching!
I've held my breath while the traces part. Very relaxing repair for the middle of the week after an exhausting day. Feel revitalized !!!
Thanks for the nice comment!
Great job Tony, another one saved.
Thank you!
You never want to *add* a diode to your CMOS 3V coin-cell battery. Diode has a voltage drop and even relatively fresh coin cell battery will be reported as empty.
You did the right thing - find out, where the 5V charging voltage is coming in and sever that line instead.
Good job!
Absolutely, it’s always a little gamble. I ended up with only one diode on the line, two would have been too much indeed. Thanks for watching!
As always it is pleasure to watch your repairs.
Thanks for your kind words!
Nice job, Tony. Thanks for explaining about the diode for the non-rechargeable battery.
My pleasure! Thanks for watching!
mega repair, Tony! i was hoping you would get back to it. yesterday i replaced my ever first capacitor, it was fun but i did something wrong...cause the mosfet near the replaced capacitor, north of the chipset, gets so so hot, barely can touch it for 3 seconds, but the board, asus k8n, works, but i'm not comfortable with that high temp at all :) started doing this cause of you, BuB, vswitch, you all inspired me and i like it a lot :)
Amazing! Was that an SMD capacitor, did you use hot air? Semiconductors can cope with 300C+ temps for a limited time. That's how they're soldered at the factory. They cannot OPERATE at those temperatures. But as long as the mosfet stayed at that temp for a short time, you'll be ok. Make sure you give it time to cool down and don't try to speed up the cooling process! Well done with the job!
@@tony359 thank you, Tony.
I jumped on the BuB channel after you previously suggested him, he's great! Somehow even watching him straighten many many many many CPU pins lately has been good!
I really enjoy his videos. Very relaxing and well made! He's the Wizard of pins indeed :)
Awesome repair, beautiful restoration. Loved your video.
Thank you very much!
A Cool simple repair, thank you
Thank you!
Great repair. The tweezers I use are not exactly these but a similar model and size. I have 3 around at anytime and another 5 in case I broke the ones that I normally use. I may say that they are the best, but I know that the best tool is the one that does the job.
Indeed, everybody has their own "best" tools! Thanks for watching!
Excellent job e very informative!. Today is very rare find someone like you, that like to fix vintage computer.
Thank you for watching!
Good video as always Tony, and great result with the board repair....
Thank you!
I have never seen anybody so excited about a pair of tweezers.😄.....great video....keep making more interesting videos please...👍
What else can bring you more joy than a pair of tweezers? :D
Thanks for watching!
Great video! Thank you.
Thank you for watching!
Well done, as always :) Very cool interposer!
Sphere is a Wizard when it comes to those things! Thank you!
Super informative for me.. thanks tony❤
Thank you for watching!
Great video as always!
And thank you for sharing the tweezers link.
You're welcome - I hope they are good over time!
Sometimes the video needs no drama and mystery just a satisfying repair. Good job!
ahah yes, for a change! It just worked :) Imagine if it hadn't posted... Thanks for watching!
In my old job i replaced many of those IC's and it feels bad to see that soldering work. Anyway great video Tony, keep up the good work.
Sorry! :)
Learning :) Next time will do better I hope! Thanks for watching!
@@tony359 Not ment you Tony i ment the customer, you did an amazing job ;)
Oh sorry, I thought you were commenting on another video, my bad! Thank you! :)
Many people don’t have the tools and skills Tony has and that’s okay. For many we do this as a hobby and do the best we can in the aspects that we enjoy with the time and funds that make sense. In this case it was a little accident that wasn’t supposed to happen that turned into a couple hours with the wrong tools that sparked an idea for a cool video. Don’t put others down for not being perfect at everything. There are things others can do that you can’t also.
@@morejiggawatts4992 That is very kind of you to say, that resonates with me as well! @Thorsten369 was just commenting on the soldering though, I didn't read that as being harsh to the user. But yes, let's be understanding, nobody is perfect - including myself of course! :)
You got really good in this Game of Legs ;)
Yes! Now it's time I fix that PS3 CPU I butchered ages ago! Thanks for watching!
Hi Tony -- see how the universe is conspiring? The model 80 board I have with the damaged VGA circuit has a perfect 386 socket for that cool interposer project.... :) Someday, you will have to do a model 80 restoration... it's inevitable :) --- I'm just teasing, great video as always!!
ruclips.net/video/kIbEj1CIpuU/видео.html :D
One day I'll stumble into a suitable power supply! Thanks for watching!
Very cool!, i want to start learn fixing electronic, so i can fix or even create something by myself :)
Amazing, good luck!
Top as always! Love every repair video.
Thank you!
Great video!
Thank you!
Great repair very satisfying to watch
Thank you Sir, glad you enjoyed it!
Thank You for the Video!
Thank you for watching!
Hi Tony i like these kind of restoration of vintage computers. As usual your explanation is very clear. Thanks for this great video.
Thank you for your nice words!
Great fix as always Tony. I wonder if it'd be possible to add maybe a tp4056 board in line with the holder. Adding a "LR2032" (I think its LR for rechargeable) to maintain that charging functionality. iirc some boards consume a lot of power from the cmos battery. So they can kinda chew through them.
It's an option indeed - I did forget to measure the current drawn by the BIOS. The 2032 makes things easier of course but a rechargeable makes things better! Thanks for watching!
Excellent as always!
Thank you!
3..2..1.. Chip 'n Dale Rescue Rangers for Sphere's 486 board. Not used parts like diods, I always left on board, slide one contact and soldered. At this time maybe for future NiHm battery.
Very good idea! In fact, I wanted to enclose the diode in the return box and... I forgot :) Well, it's a common item thankfully :)
Thanks for watching!
Nice repair
Thanks 👍
Bel lavoro! Already bought the same tweezers after seeing them at work. Ciao!
Spero che passino la prova del tempo - I hope the pass the test of time (can I even say that in English?) :) Thank you!
wow brings back memories of my 486 4x100 with 8meg of ram mfm hard drive as didn't have a ide drive running windows 3.11 upgraded to win 95c with a soundblaster card and unknown video card that was supper long and high with heaps of chips on it and yes playing doom
I remember those times - but never had an MFM drive! Thanks for watching!
This was a really nice, enjoyable, straight forward fix. Thank You! ^_^ And yep, these tweezers are pretty amazing ^o^
Thank you for watching!
Great job!
Thank you!
Have you seen the destruction that epictronics has been putting up with? He's got a 486 board from Computer reset that had just an awful battery destruction. He does great work as well.
I have! That board is going to be famous for the number of jumpers! I have a more modern one with a crater on top - but I think there is way too much damage for me to consider fixing it. We'll see! Thanks for watching!
you can use a LR2032 or a LiR2032, which are rechagable, sooo it might work plug an play.
I understand that a regulation circuit would need to be provided. It can work but not PnP AFAIK - never tried though. Thanks for watching!
Younger generations will think that PC gaming was most boring thing ever back in the time. Only one game existed. :P
Fun aside, I admire you for your tools. nice tweezers, proper PCB mask and a UV light, all the small things. And the big things too. Part of me wants to buy all if them part of me is like, no i don't deserve this. I am not even good enough for what I use now.
The thing is that I've never been a gamer! I was playing DOOM a bit on my 386 (no sound card, no cache... it was bad!) then I played UT and some others on and off - more OFF than ON!
By all means, please do feel free to suggest more games I could use to test a DOS system!
Thanks for watching and no worries, I also started from a bent screwdriver :)
Nice repair :)
Thank you! Cheers!
Tony, nice video of repair but what if you go to higher level for a future video as suggestion by doing something crazy like this: Why not to mod a celeron motherboard with 66MHz FSB limit and upgrade to 100MHz or 133MHz to use Pentium III instead?
For me this will be a creative modification for those motherboard limited by cheap Celeron CPUs at these slow old boards.
Continue sharing your positive attitude at retro restore/upgrade challenges!!!!
Thanks for the idea! Let's say I like repairing things but this type of modding/overclocking is really not my cup of tea! Not saying it'll never happen but I think I'd rather find another broken board and try to fix it! Sphere - and others - can then mod the board to go to Warp 9 :)
But who knows, I'm open to anything :)
Thanks for watching!
19:42 I just wonder why We (as retro community members) don't use a rechargable versions of those cells called LIR2032 and stop bother about those diodes.
I have tried those rechargeable 2032 batteries in two boards. In both cases the battery got to about 70 degrees C. The charging voltage is a bit high and the current is way too high. I know this can be handled by simple passives, but in the end a diode and standard 2032 is the way to go. It is simple, inexpensive and works well
Oh yes, someone did mention that. Interesting feedback from @Birdman_in_CLE though.
The ISA sound card may not work, because the sound card may need -5 volts supply. The ATX PSU do not supply.
Good idea - but no, it was something else. You'll see on a future video! Thanks for your comment!
"It's a pretty simple board. As you can see, it's only CPU, FPU. Then we have expansion slots, RAM slots, some cache and that's it. Anything else, there's no controllers, there's nothing on this board. Everything else has to be on expansion cards."
As it should be! Integrating everything onto the motherboard should never have happened. These minimal boards are much better from a repair and upgrade perspective. More to carry over between upgrades and less to go wrong, and thus easier to diagnose and fix when something does go wrong, and less to throw out if you can't fix it.
The ATX I/O shield shouldn't have been a thing. Instead, it should have just been a space for a 120mm fan, given a major reason for the design of ATX was dealing with heat. The extra space between that and the current usage by the I/O shield could be used for extra expansion slots instead. We could potentially have gotten 9 slots instead of 7, a one-slot improvement over AT, rather than the downgrade we got with ATX.
Interesting point! I think it really depends on the use case. I'd say the majority of the users really don't care about that and a single board with all that's needed on it is simpler and has less failure points. If you consider that the main storage now is on the MoBo (SSD), you can have a decent PC on a single, small motherboard.
Thanks for watching!
Great video, as always. I am wondering how can You use deoxit - it is a fluid so it may create shorts?
Water per se (as in pure water) is not conductive 🙂 I know it’s weird. It’s the salts and impurities dissolved in it which makes it conductive. You can check with your multimeter in resistance mode, stick the probes in a glass of distilled water and then add some salt. You should see the multimeter reading some resistance when salt is added.
I don’t use de-oxit but a similar one which ‘enhances conductivity’. It might interfere with very low voltages (under 1V) and I would be careful with high voltage. But for a board which works at 5-12V it’s totally safe, it’s not so conductive to cause shorts. Same for de-oxit of course. Thanks for watching!
@@tony359 conductivity of these fluids is interesting for me. I know that pure water is not conductive but fluids like deoxit are not a pure water. In my country, Poland, we have spray called "Kontakt" with some numbers in the name and when I worked as a maintenance and troubleshooting technician in railway company my colleague used it on connectors for similar like car ABS system. I lost a loot of hours to find why this system don't want to work and since that time I didn't use fluids on electronic but I have to try again. I've seen many times how people use liquid on electronics in videos and I've wanted to ask about it for a long time. Thank you for your answer.
I think the one I am using used to be called Servisol S10 and now it's Kontakt 61 if memory serves. There is a warning about using it on signals below 1V - it might actually insulate some contacts - but I never had issues with computers. In fact, the S10 has revived contacts where the dry contact cleaner failed. I think the best way in your case would be to check with the manufacturer, they might be able to recommend a specific product.
You are awesome! Where can we find your address I would love to send some even better tweezers! lol
That's very kind of you! My email is on my main profile page, if you click on the description! Thanks for watching!
@@tony359 great!! Keep up the great videos!!! Just followed you on X as well!!
I never heard that 2032 are not rechargeable???? It is lithium ?
They are! :) Definitely not rechargeable. There is a rechargeable version called LR2032.
Can you please tell the bios programer you are using.
I upgraded to the T48 recently, which is the one you see in the video - but the TL866II would also work well. If you need to buy it now, I'd go with the T48, it's the same price.