Really good video.. I love DIY Projects and you were patient with yours… great build.. I’m a little OCD myself and wish I had ocd friends who liked doing your kind of stuff👍👍
They look great in position! Got my new cells and need to find time to run full cycles to see actual performance. Van sleep area is getting a custom designed bench/bed, toilet cupboard and opposite wall of storage. I'll have too many places to stash things and stay tidy
Excellent video, can't wait to use these for a battery someday. For connecting the boards to the cell, the balance current is so low compared to the large size of the bars connecting the cells you could connect both balance wires to the same cell to make the wiring easier / cleaner. Good to cross connect for the larger charge / discharge current though since for that there would be a small voltage drop in the bus bars with high current. However for your setup because you have three bus bars connecting each of the middle cells together the main positive and negative should connect to the center of the positive and negative bus bars. That way the center cell gets the main wire and the two cells to either side have the same voltage drop through the same length of bus bar. Right now the wire connects the cell on the edge and that one gets the best connection the cell in the middle has a little bit of a drop through the bus bar and the cell on the opposite edge has twice that voltage drop through the bus bar.
Thanks for this and let me have a think about what you are suggesting regarding the main positive and negative terminals. I'm sure you are right regarding the cell module wiring - in reality the longer negative wire probably isn't needed.
Very nice Adam. I just recieved my boards from JLCPCB, and need to fit the ATTiny and Wemos to them. Just need those parts first. Funnily enough my LifePo4 pack is sitting at the same voltage yours is at the moment! Whoever disliked this video doesn't like green energy :P
Nice build! You might want to check your solar charge controller settings. It looks like your write of the settings for float set point didn’t save When you refreshed it, it changed back to 13.8
BersekViking they are shockingly thin. If they were just voltage sense wires fine, but for sense and balance... i’m not so sure. Will definitely get poor voltage readings with balancing
Nicely done, Adam. Thanks. I would like to know whether self adhesive Velcro strips were considered? They work very well, don't cost much, are easy to undo and are also re-useable when you need to make repairs or changes. Cyanoacrylates are often affected by heat and moisture, and also very brittle, so using cheaper varieties to join flexible plastics together in an English garden shed, with all of the humidity of our climate is not the best choice. A general purpose impact adhesive is better. The solder in those connectors is probably something like a version of Wood's metal, Field's metal or GalInStan, all of which will melt before the heatshrink sleeving begins to be damaged. (Woods metal melts at around 70°C, or a little warmer.) Those alloys are much more resistive than 'normal' Copper wire solders. They're fine for your low current wiring, but can become hot and thus soften in higher current applications.They also degrade differently. For example, I have some Woods metal which was cast inside a glass bottle, years ago, and I notice that some oxidation has occurred with aerobic storage. Wikipedia has some reasonably accurate information about low melting point alloys, which is worth perusing. Woods metal contains Antimony and other toxic metals. Galinstan is exactly what it says; Gallium, Indium and Tin, (Ga In Sn). Finally, your Lead/acid pack had a capacity of slightly les than 1kWh, if my memory is correct. What is the actual capacity of the LiFePO4 battery, please? Tests need to be run, of course, but it will be an interesting video to watch. 👈 🙂 👍
That’s very useful thanks. Forgot to think about the temperature compensation. The single cell values in the diyBMS? I haven’t done anything there because I haven’t got the relay module hooked up yet. Thanks again.
Thanks a lot for your videos. I am curious about: 1. aliexpress link for LiFePO4 batteries doesn't seem to work, it only shows you a "search terms page" and not a link product. Could you please share it to us? 2. I also want to know how will you configure MPPT and BMS not to "fight" each other about max voltage of cells. (I think in pass video I wrote about it, how to control max voltage per cell with BMS, and total voltage in MPPT). I am inpatient to see your next video, thanks a lot.
Hey Fernando, I just purchased 4x135ah cells from Ali express. Steel cased, the bus bars and bolts come with it too. The cells were manufactured this year. It worked out to about £460 as they were shipped from poland quickly. Only did a volt test and they all sit the same. Want to start full charge and discharge tests asap. I have a 30a smart BMS with Bluetooth, the victron charge controller is also Bluetooth You can find BLS store : #Aliexpress ￡385.48 47%OFF | 4PCS 3.2V 120AH 135AH lifepo4 Rechargeable Battery Lithium Iron Phosphate Cell solar 24V 12V cells not 150Ah EU US TAX FREE a.aliexpress.com/_dTbmYdCat my cells. This replaces my 8x 60ah sinopoly that I killed. They are much smaller and lighter than the old ones. They also give much better piece of mind.
Those all in one solder is good for low current application will suggest not to use tham for high current connection as solder does not connect well high resistance. Prefer manual soldering for high current application. Anyway nice video 👌
Great videos. Is there a Lion BMS that is adjustable so I could set the overcharge value to something other than, 14.8v for a 4S for example? Like set it to...14.2v so it is always a little undercharged to lengthen the life of the cells? Or is there a better way like an adjustable charge controller instead combines with a BMS that is not adjustable?
For the solder joins, it makes a more robust connection if you were to mesh the two wires together rather than just soldering them adjacent to each other. Not sure that with the balance cables of that diameter and the bus bars being so thick, it makes much difference which bolt you attached the BMS to anyway.
Thanks. I think I mushed them together a bit, but probably should have cut off the pre-tinned end on the jst cable. Yeah I would have thought that it would be fine connecting the cell modules to the end terminals (but also the way I did it meant I could ensure the main negative terminal wasn’t inhibited with another crimp connector).
Just seeing the setting's screen for the latest version of the software that you showed; THere is a big difference between you versio and the original v4 version. Time for me to upgrade the software
Should the lines for communication be twisted? I get communication errors as soon as I connect several dcdc converters to charge or discharge the battery. Very nice work
Tip for you: You can edit your windows machine hosts file to mask IP address to hostname. Please follow below step: Press ctrl+R Type "drivers" and press enter key, this should open windows explorer Open etc folder open "hosts" file for editing Add "192.168.4.54 betterybms.com" to last line save the file. This way you don't have to remember ip addresses. Now you can just type batterybms.com in the browser and it should open the page. Hope this helps
The diyBMS balances at 1 amp (or lower depending on the temperature). Balance wires only need to carry the balance current - and if your cells are even, they could conceivably never carry any current. I’m able to report that after a few weeks they are remaining in balance and the wires are performing beautifully.
I'm not sure if you couldn't have just used 4x ESP32's, each powered straight off the cell it's monitoring since the LiFePO4 voltage range matches the ESP32's range. Would cut down on the unnecessary wiring.
Learning a lot from your videos but still something I'm not able to figure out, even from looking at Stuart videos or the Github repo. This BMS is reading the voltage on all the cells and then rebalancing (lowering?) the voltage if any of these cells are higher in voltage than what they should be... okay... but how this diyBMS is connecting the the "other" systems to tell to stop or enable charge? (wether that's from solar and/or AC)?. This is what I?m really not getting about this diyBMS, how it talks to your inverter or all in one or whatever you have? Thanks!
The diyBMS does not sense the overall pack voltage, but it assumes it from the sum of all the modules (which are calibrated). You can set an upper pack voltage and lower pack voltage at which point you can activate relays. So you could disable, or disconnect your charger and/or a load using that facility. My solar charge controller has charge and discharge limits set in it, so essentially my diybms is just keeping the cells in balance. Cheers.
Hi, Adam As you are into Lifpo4 cells I have just purchased 4 X 14500 3.2V Battery 700mAh Lithium LFP Rechargeable Batteries to run my ESP8266-D1 Mini the same board you are using for your setup but now need to charge them up and don't want to damage them so any ideas on the best way to charge them one at a time as my D1 mini will run strait of the battery at 3.2 volts with no voltage regulator. Any help would be most welcome Bob in the UK
They charge best with a cc/cv charge to 3.65v. So a dedicated charger or a power supply able to regulate current and voltage is best. However when I solar charge these they don’t get that profile due to the irregularities of the sun. I only charge to 3.35v daily.
The cable section is calculated with the maximum current the inverter can provide or the maximum output current the battery can deliver? Any problem since installation?
Would a dc to DC, bucking from 12 or 24v to 5v USB, be a good choice for powering the master module? Pulling from all cells, and I'm guessing it doesn't require much current, like less than 1.5amps? Do you have any boards you would sell? I gave started father parts, I ordered a couple wemos, my luck, it doesn't hurt to have extra or replacement parts. I just fried my battery charger and power supply today! About $150 down the drain! I hope to get started on a bms this fall!
@@AdamWelchUK what kind of Unistrut profile is it ? I find different ones here where I live. Maybe it doesn't matter if the holes are there same size? Do you know? I want to print your holders for my diyBMS project.
You can buy completed cell modules from the JLCPCB assembly service (when they have all the components in stock) but not the controller because they have never listed the i2c IO expander chip on their assembly service. Stuart might be the best person to ask - technically his licence prevents the commercial use, and therefore someone couldn't really build them for a profit.
Hi Adam. I've just encountered an issue with a BMS applied to my setup. BMS is a DALY 24V 60A module, Batt 26.4V 105Ah. When the battery reaches capacity, the BMS disconnects the charging, so that my EpEver 4210A gets full Panel voltage, with no battery. Inverter goes over-voltage and shuts down, MPPT goes out. How do you get round this?
Up to what capacity can you balance 2th life 18650 cells with 800 mA if daily charged/uncharged ? Does it has a capacity reporting per parallel set ( so I know to what set I should add an additional cell)
Would anyone know the max. Cell count this BMS can handle? Do you think it would be able to handle a 96s battery? BTW I've been binge watchingbyiur channel. Excellent.
Said as: Lithium Iron Phosphate Or L - I - F - E - P - O - 4 (Each letter said on its own, 7 syllables, not the chemical formula strung together as a pseudo word) Not said as: Life-EE-pho-four Lithium Iron. Not LIFE EE. Sorry, that was getting to me the entire video.
Hi Adam Welch i am a viewer from Algeria and i have so many questions to ask you about electrical installations. the two most urgent are related to solar installation and grounding 1. i have a distribution board with two sources of electricity, city electric and solar (2400W inverter) the thing is the two electric circuit are never in contact with each other but i have to properly ground all the electric sockets for safety . the question is do i make sepret grouding bar for the diffrent sockets or it doesn't matter or there is other solutions. 2. for my solar installation i have a pure sine wave inverter from EPEVER 2400 watt and the problem is that it is properly grounded but when i mesur from the neutral or live wire to the ground i have half of the potential (115 volt) . ps: i have 230 volt between neutral and live i heard about neutral bonding and floating neutral but it is high level for me. i hope you can help and thank you in advance.
Not sure I would trust that heat shrink soldering. Don't see how it could get hot enough for the solder to bond to the wires properly. That five piece BMS seems unnecessarily over complicated and probably is to much of a drain on the batteries.
Well the heat shrink solder joints are an experiment and if they fail the bms will inform me. The bms is no more complicated than the batrium - which customers seem to love. It pulls less than 1mA per module but the central controller does pull ~80mA due to the wireless comms. Which is also less than the batrium I believe. It can also control up to four battery banks from a single controller. It’s not nearly as low as some single board bms systems, but I think it does a lot more than those and therefore is worth the slight increase. Cheers
This seems to be totally wrong implemented. Even wording 4s3p actually gives hint how it should be connected. You first connect series, then connect parallel. And you need 12 boards, not 4. They are per cell and not per parallel pack.
@Pluckyew - sorry no. Think about the cells in parallel for a second - each cell is made up of a stack of lower capacity cells wired in. Therefore, connecting the three cells in parallel makes it one larger capacity cell. And that one larger capacity cell needs a single BMS cell module. Adam built out the BMS exactly correct.
I love British vernacular.. especially when compared to American. I've had to call it "math" my entire life...prob because we're just a bunch of asshole.
DIY Projects With Chuxxsss why would you need a BMS if you have only a 1 series battery setup. all the cells should share the same potential since they are in parallel
![Current Shunt Add-On Board [DIYBMS]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/5VLVrcJPMIQ/mqdefault.jpg)
![Natanael Cano - Amor Eterno [Official Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/EO4prCs6WpM/mqdefault.jpg)
Really good video.. I love DIY Projects and you were patient with yours… great build.. I’m a little OCD myself and wish I had ocd friends who liked doing your kind of stuff👍👍
They look great in position! Got my new cells and need to find time to run full cycles to see actual performance. Van sleep area is getting a custom designed bench/bed, toilet cupboard and opposite wall of storage. I'll have too many places to stash things and stay tidy
@3:15 That's why i print everything in ABS or ASA. You can acetone weld everything. The weld is as strong as the material itself. Try it ;-)
Excellent video, can't wait to use these for a battery someday. For connecting the boards to the cell, the balance current is so low compared to the large size of the bars connecting the cells you could connect both balance wires to the same cell to make the wiring easier / cleaner. Good to cross connect for the larger charge / discharge current though since for that there would be a small voltage drop in the bus bars with high current. However for your setup because you have three bus bars connecting each of the middle cells together the main positive and negative should connect to the center of the positive and negative bus bars. That way the center cell gets the main wire and the two cells to either side have the same voltage drop through the same length of bus bar. Right now the wire connects the cell on the edge and that one gets the best connection the cell in the middle has a little bit of a drop through the bus bar and the cell on the opposite edge has twice that voltage drop through the bus bar.
Thanks for this and let me have a think about what you are suggesting regarding the main positive and negative terminals. I'm sure you are right regarding the cell module wiring - in reality the longer negative wire probably isn't needed.
Very nice Adam. I just recieved my boards from JLCPCB, and need to fit the ATTiny and Wemos to them. Just need those parts first. Funnily enough my LifePo4 pack is sitting at the same voltage yours is at the moment! Whoever disliked this video doesn't like green energy :P
Great, good to hear you will be up and running soon. Cheers :)
Nice build!
You might want to check your solar charge controller settings. It looks like your write of the settings for float set point didn’t save When you refreshed it, it changed back to 13.8
Thanks. I will double check.
Good Morning from Victoria, Texas. Long time subscriber Sir. Thank you for sharing. Blessings 🙏🏼👍🏼
Always do the glue on both sides first to lock it in before soldier, and use a flame to do it fast!
The difference in size of busbars and BMS wires are several orders of magnitude. Where you connect the thin wires to the basbars should not matter.
BersekViking they are shockingly thin. If they were just voltage sense wires fine, but for sense and balance... i’m not so sure. Will definitely get poor voltage readings with balancing
Nicely done, Adam. Thanks.
I would like to know whether self adhesive Velcro strips were considered? They work very well, don't cost much, are easy to undo and are also re-useable when you need to make repairs or changes.
Cyanoacrylates are often affected by heat and moisture, and also very brittle, so using cheaper varieties to join flexible plastics together in an English garden shed, with all of the humidity of our climate is not the best choice. A general purpose impact adhesive is better.
The solder in those connectors is probably something like a version of Wood's metal, Field's metal or GalInStan, all of which will melt before the heatshrink sleeving begins to be damaged. (Woods metal melts at around 70°C, or a little warmer.) Those alloys are much more resistive than 'normal' Copper wire solders. They're fine for your low current wiring, but can become hot and thus soften in higher current applications.They also degrade differently. For example, I have some Woods metal which was cast inside a glass bottle, years ago, and I notice that some oxidation has occurred with aerobic storage.
Wikipedia has some reasonably accurate information about low melting point alloys, which is worth perusing. Woods metal contains Antimony and other toxic metals. Galinstan is exactly what it says; Gallium, Indium and Tin, (Ga In Sn).
Finally, your Lead/acid pack had a capacity of slightly les than 1kWh, if my memory is correct. What is the actual capacity of the LiFePO4 battery, please? Tests need to be run, of course, but it will be an interesting video to watch. 👈 🙂 👍
👍 Danke fürs Hochladen!
👍 Thanks for uploading!
👍 Very good and beautiful, thank you!
👍 Sehr gut und schön, danke!
what a job, congratulations, very well done and explained, thanks!
Excellent Setup!
Success! Looks like it all came together nicely. Are you going to do a video to test your low voltage cutoff and high voltage balance/cutoff?
I think there will be more videos as I gain more experience. I want to implement the relay module in the diyBMS too.
Looking good if you have temperature compensation remember to turn it off and single cell reconnection if you intend to use it needs to be lower IMHO.
That’s very useful thanks. Forgot to think about the temperature compensation. The single cell values in the diyBMS? I haven’t done anything there because I haven’t got the relay module hooked up yet. Thanks again.
Excellent
looks good Adam. I'm Jealous! keep up the good work.
very nice build, will hopefully do the same soon :)
Great job as always, is there a video where you do the node-red "app" for the battery charger? Thanks
Thanks a lot for your videos. I am curious about:
1. aliexpress link for LiFePO4 batteries doesn't seem to work, it only shows you a "search terms page" and not a link product. Could you please share it to us?
2. I also want to know how will you configure MPPT and BMS not to "fight" each other about max voltage of cells. (I think in pass video I wrote about it, how to control max voltage per cell with BMS, and total voltage in MPPT).
I am inpatient to see your next video, thanks a lot.
Hey Fernando, I just purchased 4x135ah cells from Ali express. Steel cased, the bus bars and bolts come with it too. The cells were manufactured this year.
It worked out to about £460 as they were shipped from poland quickly. Only did a volt test and they all sit the same. Want to start full charge and discharge tests asap. I have a 30a smart BMS with Bluetooth, the victron charge controller is also Bluetooth
You can find BLS store : #Aliexpress ￡385.48 47%OFF | 4PCS 3.2V 120AH 135AH lifepo4 Rechargeable Battery Lithium Iron Phosphate Cell solar 24V 12V cells not 150Ah EU US TAX FREE
a.aliexpress.com/_dTbmYdCat my cells.
This replaces my 8x 60ah sinopoly that I killed. They are much smaller and lighter than the old ones. They also give much better piece of mind.
Those all in one solder is good for low current application will suggest not to use tham for high current connection as solder does not connect well high resistance. Prefer manual soldering for high current application.
Anyway nice video 👌
Thanks for this - the modules can only pull ~850ma so I hope these will be ok - if not there is another video in there somewhere ;-)
Great videos. Is there a Lion BMS that is adjustable so I could set the overcharge value to something other than, 14.8v for a 4S for example? Like set it to...14.2v so it is always a little undercharged to lengthen the life of the cells? Or is there a better way like an adjustable charge controller instead combines with a BMS that is not adjustable?
For the solder joins, it makes a more robust connection if you were to mesh the two wires together rather than just soldering them adjacent to each other.
Not sure that with the balance cables of that diameter and the bus bars being so thick, it makes much difference which bolt you attached the BMS to anyway.
Thanks. I think I mushed them together a bit, but probably should have cut off the pre-tinned end on the jst cable. Yeah I would have thought that it would be fine connecting the cell modules to the end terminals (but also the way I did it meant I could ensure the main negative terminal wasn’t inhibited with another crimp connector).
Just seeing the setting's screen for the latest version of the software that you showed; THere is a big difference between you versio and the original v4 version. Time for me to upgrade the software
Unnessesairy to connect to the far side of the battery. If you expect a voltage difference between front and back there there is something very wrong.
Should the lines for communication be twisted? I get communication errors as soon as I connect several dcdc converters to charge or discharge the battery.
Very nice work
Yes. Its helps with signal degradation
Tip for you: You can edit your windows machine hosts file to mask IP address to hostname. Please follow below step:
Press ctrl+R
Type "drivers" and press enter key, this should open windows explorer
Open etc folder open "hosts" file for editing
Add "192.168.4.54 betterybms.com" to last line save the file.
This way you don't have to remember ip addresses.
Now you can just type batterybms.com in the browser and it should open the page. Hope this helps
it's a natt'ed ip. it's not like he's got it directly on the open internet.
It will work on that computer only, no other, not even ones on the same network.
mate, those are some thiiin balance leads for high energy cells
The diyBMS balances at 1 amp (or lower depending on the temperature). Balance wires only need to carry the balance current - and if your cells are even, they could conceivably never carry any current. I’m able to report that after a few weeks they are remaining in balance and the wires are performing beautifully.
I'm not sure if you couldn't have just used 4x ESP32's, each powered straight off the cell it's monitoring since the LiFePO4 voltage range matches the ESP32's range. Would cut down on the unnecessary wiring.
Learning a lot from your videos but still something I'm not able to figure out, even from looking at Stuart videos or the Github repo. This BMS is reading the voltage on all the cells and then rebalancing (lowering?) the voltage if any of these cells are higher in voltage than what they should be... okay... but how this diyBMS is connecting the the "other" systems to tell to stop or enable charge? (wether that's from solar and/or AC)?. This is what I?m really not getting about this diyBMS, how it talks to your inverter or all in one or whatever you have? Thanks!
The diyBMS does not sense the overall pack voltage, but it assumes it from the sum of all the modules (which are calibrated).
You can set an upper pack voltage and lower pack voltage at which point you can activate relays. So you could disable, or disconnect your charger and/or a load using that facility.
My solar charge controller has charge and discharge limits set in it, so essentially my diybms is just keeping the cells in balance. Cheers.
@@AdamWelchUK thank you so much this helps a lot!
What about printing some red nut covers?
Hi, Adam As you are into Lifpo4 cells I have just purchased 4 X 14500 3.2V Battery 700mAh Lithium LFP Rechargeable Batteries to run my ESP8266-D1 Mini the same board you are using for your setup but now need to charge them up and don't want to damage them so any ideas on the best way to charge them one at a time as my D1 mini will run strait of the battery at 3.2 volts with no voltage regulator. Any help would be most welcome Bob in the UK
They charge best with a cc/cv charge to 3.65v. So a dedicated charger or a power supply able to regulate current and voltage is best. However when I solar charge these they don’t get that profile due to the irregularities of the sun. I only charge to 3.35v daily.
yes, the lopsided battery will fall off the shelf at best or have a much smaller capacity at worst!
The cable section is calculated with the maximum current the inverter can provide or the maximum output current the battery can deliver? Any problem since installation?
I don't like this video...., I Love it!
Would a dc to DC, bucking from 12 or 24v to 5v USB, be a good choice for powering the master module? Pulling from all cells, and I'm guessing it doesn't require much current, like less than 1.5amps? Do you have any boards you would sell? I gave started father parts, I ordered a couple wemos, my luck, it doesn't hurt to have extra or replacement parts. I just fried my battery charger and power supply today! About $150 down the drain! I hope to get started on a bms this fall!
You would have been better off using double sided tape link please were can I buy those cell modules and receiver
Another good video there mate :)
Thank you.
@@AdamWelchUK what kind of Unistrut profile is it ? I find different ones here where I live. Maybe it doesn't matter if the holes are there same size? Do you know? I want to print your holders for my diyBMS project.
life po4 not life e po4 ok
Do you know anyone that would assemble the BMS that you’re using then sell them to people? Great video.
You can buy completed cell modules from the JLCPCB assembly service (when they have all the components in stock) but not the controller because they have never listed the i2c IO expander chip on their assembly service. Stuart might be the best person to ask - technically his licence prevents the commercial use, and therefore someone couldn't really build them for a profit.
Adam Welch thanks very much.
Hi Adam.
I've just encountered an issue with a BMS applied to my setup. BMS is a DALY 24V 60A module, Batt 26.4V 105Ah.
When the battery reaches capacity, the BMS disconnects the charging, so that my EpEver 4210A gets full Panel voltage, with no battery. Inverter goes over-voltage and shuts down, MPPT goes out. How do you get round this?
Can you tell me where I can get that DIY BMS? Can it do 15S?
It’s a self build - I’ve done a video on each step. Haven’t tested it, but I believe it can do 15s
Good job Adam. Can you please measure the power consumption of the esp8266 main controller since you have already plugged it to the meter?
I can indeed... pic.twitter.com/NA51piSXEX About 78-85mA at 5 volts.
If i took 16 of these lifepo4 batteries and put them in series (for 48v), would i need 16 circuit modules?
Up to what capacity can you balance 2th life 18650 cells with 800 mA if daily charged/uncharged ? Does it has a capacity reporting per parallel set ( so I know to what set I should add an additional cell)
Umm no it hasn't confirmed your settings because it reset float to 13.8v
Ta. It has now :-)
Would anyone know the max. Cell count this BMS can handle?
Do you think it would be able to handle a 96s battery?
BTW I've been binge watchingbyiur channel. Excellent.
Check Stuart pittaway Channel. New version handles more than 100 cells
@@dittagecoeco2738 will do!
Said as:
Lithium Iron Phosphate
Or
L - I - F - E - P - O - 4
(Each letter said on its own, 7 syllables, not the chemical formula strung together as a pseudo word)
Not said as:
Life-EE-pho-four
Lithium Iron. Not LIFE EE.
Sorry, that was getting to me the entire video.
Hi Adam Welch i am a viewer from Algeria and i have so many questions to ask you about electrical installations.
the two most urgent are related to solar installation and grounding
1. i have a distribution board with two sources of electricity, city electric and solar (2400W inverter)
the thing is the two electric circuit are never in contact with each other but i have to properly ground all the electric sockets for safety .
the question is do i make sepret grouding bar for the diffrent sockets or it doesn't matter or there is other solutions.
2. for my solar installation i have a pure sine wave inverter from EPEVER 2400 watt and the problem is that it is properly grounded but when i mesur from the neutral or live wire to the ground i have half of the potential (115 volt) .
ps: i have 230 volt between neutral and live
i heard about neutral bonding and floating neutral but it is high level for me.
i hope you can help and thank you in advance.
RC model shops sell super glue drier spray!
Do you by any change know what product is in those sprays ?
@@bartdepauw1156 www.quora.com/Whats-the-easiest-way-to-make-superglue-dry-faster
Good job! attiny for diyBMS is unfortunately not available on LCSC. so far only ordered printed circuit boards. Greetings from Russia 🇷🇺
Yeah stock on the tiny’s seems to be hit or miss. It’s a shame it’s not reliable. Cheers
You can still have JLCPCB build the board without the attiny chip. Then you only need to buy and solder that one.
If the old batteries were working why would you not leave them all on aren't they compatible
They really aren't compatible. The charging and max/min voltages are very different.
I agree with John, mixing chemistries adds issues around charging and discharging. Also on a much more basic level, I don’t have the space!
Dear for buy for 16s ?
No temperature sensor?
Each module has a temp sensor and the charge controller has a battery sensor too.
Not sure I would trust that heat shrink soldering. Don't see how it could get hot enough for the solder to bond to the wires properly. That five piece BMS seems unnecessarily over complicated and probably is to much of a drain on the batteries.
Well the heat shrink solder joints are an experiment and if they fail the bms will inform me. The bms is no more complicated than the batrium - which customers seem to love. It pulls less than 1mA per module but the central controller does pull ~80mA due to the wireless comms. Which is also less than the batrium I believe. It can also control up to four battery banks from a single controller. It’s not nearly as low as some single board bms systems, but I think it does a lot more than those and therefore is worth the slight increase. Cheers
Is anyone offering this BMS system pre built ?
I'm afraid not, but JLCPCB will build the cell modules for you if you time it right and they have attiny stock.
good afternoon friend that you can sell me a bms for 14 series already
This seems to be totally wrong implemented. Even wording 4s3p actually gives hint how it should be connected. You first connect series, then connect parallel. And you need 12 boards, not 4. They are per cell and not per parallel pack.
@Pluckyew - sorry no. Think about the cells in parallel for a second - each cell is made up of a stack of lower capacity cells wired in. Therefore, connecting the three cells in parallel makes it one larger capacity cell. And that one larger capacity cell needs a single BMS cell module. Adam built out the BMS exactly correct.
IEEEEEEEEEEEEEI!!!!!!!!
:)
so so many ads !!!
I love British vernacular.. especially when compared to American. I've had to call it "math" my entire life...prob because we're just a bunch of asshole.
Can you still get the boards and part from China Adam? I need like fourteen models. Will it hand like 1s 200p?
DIY Projects With Chuxxsss why would you need a BMS if you have only a 1 series battery setup. all the cells should share the same potential since they are in parallel