Dude, I have watched nearly all of your videos, and among the entertaining, several of them have really warmed my heart. But this series hits me deeply and makes me so happy: My dad was an electrician his entire life. Highschool dropout and a vet, the guy put himself through trade schools and educated himself on the job to where he had the knowledge to do much of what you are doing and had a dream of putting together his own electric car out of frustration that the big 3 couldn't figure it out. He passed in 2016 and wasn't able to make that happen. He'd have loved to watch this, he'd have loved to lend a hand, and I know he'd have loved to see someone making this happen. Thanks man!
Hey Jerry , I’m in engineering for a EV truck bus manufacturer. I have a few suggestions . 1. EMI shield the power battery cables and the 3 phase cables from motor controller to the controller . At higher speeds you will create alot of noise that will disrupt all your CAN and Cell sampling . You shielded the parallel CAN by twisting the pair but you need to protect them from external emi so you can also shield and ground the low voltage wires . 2. That’s is a great battery design , but I suggest you fill in the sides of the battery box to keep the inertia/vibrations from flexing and breaking the modules case . If your modules flex around inside the casing it will break the bus bars because they are solid copper coated with nickel so no flexing in that material . So basically make it the battery box really snug for the modules .
This is one of those things I love about this video series, not only we get to know Zack's insight of the project, but also people like you who are *actually* experienced and educated in this field putting in suggestions! Big ups, sir!
Such an achievement getting the wheels to move. Props to jerry and everyone who is helping him, he managed to turn a vehicle that's not at all designed to be electric and made it so, in his freaking garage!!
Have you ever heard of Rich Rebuilds or Ryan Mayer? Or any other car-centered channel ever? Rich recently built a V8 Tesla. Ryan Mayer builds SEMA trucks in his garage.
HELLO!!! I want to spend time with celebrities. Just kidding. GAGAGAGAGA! I only want to spend time with my two girlfriends and record videos for RUclips with the 3 of us. OH YEAH. Don't hate me for living the best life, dear kate
@@TKUA11 he will have the only one in existence and he will be able to say he made it. That's the whole point. Someone has to make the first of something before you can buy it. If everyone thought like you we would still be in the dark ages. Edison didn't wait for a light bulb to magically appear in his local Walmart. Be a change don't wait for one.
For #3, he mentioned the battery packs have channels for liquid cooling, but after he showed the three conduits [only], I wasn't sure if he was going to go through with the cooling system [yet].
I don't know why, but the moment notification arrives for this i open it with the flash like speed. Great work, can't wait to see the result and make my own electric vehicle one day
As I am a retired (45 yrs. in and as an) Electrorincs Engineering tech Large Sawmill - Headrigs and 500 HP Gang edgers, former USN Aircract Electronics tech (ASW, AT3), USAF AutoTrack Radar tech 30333, USArmy Infantry, I would offer an A+ for what you showed us in this video. Safety was paramount with death so close... great job! I am sure you'll fix the no grommets without me saying anything... you got it to move without destroying your shop. Everyone waqtching what you did should be very impressed. -- Take Care - Radar 71 and still alive Jerry Rigging all the way.
12:24, careful, blue loctite will eat away at many plastics making them extremely brittle. The product spec for 243 recommends keeping it away from all plastics. "This product is not normally recommended for use on plastics (particularly thermoplastic materials where stress cracking of the plastic could result). Users are recommended to confirm compatibility of the product with such substrates."
As electrican,i would advice you to put a edge protection around the holes where you put the wires trough,not that the isolation gets damaged on the metal edges when going over bumpy roads.But amazing work,i love it
It’s been my experience with wiring ( both from my job building sensors for The United States Airforce and my hobby as A Car Audio Freak) That only crimping those pin connections ISN’T enough to ensure they are solid enough. I always go the extra mile and solder the part and the wire. And it’s done because the USAF DEMANDS It to be DONE, not because I want to! And since they have it that way, I decided to do that with my own projects. Haven’t had a single failure on ANY wire connection since. This project is DEAR to my heart ❤️, because my father was involved with the initial development of the HumVee as Commadant of the Ft Eustis, Va Transportation College. I’m so very impressed with your efforts!!
23:00 - one comment here, you should use thread deforming all metal lock nuts instead of normal jam nuts for your HV connections. Vehicles see a lot of vibrations and these nuts could potentially come loose, but a thread deforming nut is highly unlikely to ever come loose from vibrations. Nylocs don't work because the high currents going through these connections can melt the nylon.
@@afromaximus they are probably fine. My experience is in formula student where our rulebook forbids those as they rely on pre-tensioning. Since I'm an electrical engineer, I'm not too familiar with fasteners apart from what I'm allowed to use by our rules so I can't say for certain
@@afromaximus formula student is a university competition so they only really allow safety wire, nylocks, all metal thread deforming nuts, and tab washers to make it easy to see whether it was done properly.
Loving this series. Safety tip for working with dangerous voltage and current: Don't lean on the chassis and most important use only one hand at a time of possible and keep the other behind your back. It's grounding across the torso that is most deadly, keep your heart out of the curcuit path.
@@vidznstuff1 I was about to point that out, as long as those batteries aren't connected to anything that could ground them, touching anything with one hand is theoretically safe. However accidents happen so this probably isn't a bright idea. and iven if you insulate yourself from ground, those can still hurt. because the potential of those batteries is not equal to ground.Though I suspect it is really close with air discharging and them connected through BMS which is grounded through external power
I'm pretty sure he already has something to prevent that shown in an earlier video. He just didn't put them on yet for the test because they'd have to come off again when he installs the batteries in the humvee.
Congrats on getting your project to the rolling stage. I do have a very real concern about the exposed +/- battery terminals being within a 1/2 inch of a conductive aluminum panel. There is insulation sheet material (Fiberglass GP03) that can be installed around the inside of the battery boxes that will take an impact and keep the HV terminals from shorting out on the aluminum box. Rubber will not do as it will deform and allow the terminals to contact the aluminum in the event of an impact due to an accident.
As an electrician myself this work is amazing, I haven’t worked on auto electrical but know a lot about ELV/DC systems. My favorite series on RUclips at the moment by far
A long time ago, I was a Navy nuclear propulsion nerd, turned anti-submarine warfare tech. At the time I was in school, battery banks on our boats were largely lead-acid cells in massive SP configurations. An uninsulated busbar + uninsulated tool made for a real crap day for some of my classmates, instilling in me a healthy respect/fear balance of electricity that follows me to this day. Later on, as an ASW guy working with P3's, the commands I was attached to were served by huge diesel generator-fed battery banks, so big they filled a 48ft trailer! I was not thrilled. Interesting to say in hindsight, definitely the most dangerous part of my military service was batteries! After combat, living underwater, flying in the P3 fleet; it was definitely batteries that killed people in my job more than anything else.
This project is amazing and I love following it. I do have a safety concern with the driveshaft going through the battery enclosure in the event of something failing. I would look into a drive shaft hoop to protect the box in case the u joint fails from all the new torque it’s definitely not rated for. Last thing you want is a flailing driveshaft smashing into your battery enclosure.
The size and weight of the vehicle and the tires against the drive shafts causes me to worry about reliability of the electrical system in especially hard jumps at speed. Please be careful and do not let some careless reckless person drive this until you well test this. Great video! The music really builds Tension! Great speaking ability. WOW!!!
Really satisfying to see all the wiring getting all organized, wrapped, hooked up, and then working properly! The battery arrangement is so clean. Must feel amazing to get to this point! Nice work Zack!
23:28 that looks like a good place for the wrench to weld itself to the case, if there is any conductive path from the battery to the box... PLEASE insulte the box wall that covers the terminals!
Insulting the walls won't help 😛 For this beeing an issue, you would need a double fault, where the negative terminal also touches the walls, but still. Uneccessary risk that can be easily mitigated by glueing a rubber mat around the terminal..
Usually I don’t stay around for the full 30 minutes RUclips videos, skipping periodically, but this series I have watched every single second. Congratulations and thank you for sharing these awesome videos!
Warning for the loctite 243 used at 12:30: Loctite makes most plastics brittle over time. You will end up seeing the plastic break and possibley drop those screws onto the PCB below it. You are far better off using a nylock nut on the outside with the screw head inside (also cover it with kapton tape).
29:31 is my favourite part. Every car build I've ever been a part of - literally every single one - has had that moment of "we shouldn't do this..." followed by us doing whatever it was we weren't supposed to do! Latecomer to this build but potentially your biggest fan already. Top work sir!
Watch out for Eddy Currents indused into the metal structure of the boxes. Since you've run positive and negative wires in separate holes going through the metal wall of the box, this will create Eddy Current in the metal. This will cause great loss of power, heat up the metal in the box and create interference in electronics. To avoid this run both cables through same Conduit.
Except that there's DC current flowing in those wires, and Eddy currents only occur when variable magnetic fields are present. The only situation it could be problematic is during sudden acceleration/regenerative breaking when the current changes rapidly, but without running the numbers I can't really say if it ends up being relevant. Edit: it also occured to me that given the orientation of the cables with respect to the box's surface, the magnetic field flux through the metal volume is only accounted by the thickness of the metal plate, thus the induced current should flow from inner to outer surface and vice versa, not along the faces. Even being quite ticc as they are, there is not much space for the Eddy currents to develop and dissipate energy thickness-wise.
It might be good to buy dedicated CAN bus cable that is already jacketed and/or shielded. These are rated and tested to meet CAN bus requirements. CAN networks requires differential impedance control to maintain signal integrity, which for twisted pairs is determined by the conductor, dielectric between, and distance between wires. With a loose twisted pair it might not work over longer distances or with higher interference.
That 'crusty compound' on the battery terminals was not dielectric. It was a conductive paste needed for high current connections to prevent hot spots in the connections.
@@buckmanriver yea I'm hoping they go back and rebuild the packs with conductive paste, I know it'll suck to do though. Been loving this series so far, great to see how far he's come from testing phone durability.
I'm Nabil from Morocco I'm planning to start an electric bikes project, and I was following you since the beginning of the project, you are just amazing bro keep going, wish you all the best ⚡🙏
Dude , i smiled so hard when i saw the wheels moving , this project is more like a journey to me , i have ben enjoying tech with you since forever , you saw some of my comments once but now i wish this reaches you, I’m proud to be your subscriber and a virtual friend over the years! I really enjoyed this project and can’t wait to see it runnin the streets! My man you are the DIY symbol for me , wishing you and your family specially lil jerry all the happiness you could get .. Enjoy your year Zack, always got ur back buddy ❤️
Just a note: You should be using HV wires with a braided shield, it will decrease the eletromagnetic noise in the car It is also advise to use proper CAN cables
This gave me so much anxiety especially while seeing the wiring of the batteries, but it was satisfying to see the Hummer move. This is one of the finest series on RUclips
CAN network - controller area network network 😉. The resistor on the ends are called terminators. The CAN bus protocol is pretty cool and relatively simple. It was fun to work with the CAN aerospace protocol as it has grown.
I am concerned on the holes that the wiring is coming out of and coming into the metal boxes - those holes do not look sharp, but they are not well rounded either - during riding it was rub on the edge and wear out the insulation on cables, in theory. A rubber ring insert will do wonders there, I think.
So glad someone added this comment. The exposed edges of those holes will inevitably pose a risk to the insulation around the cables - now is the perfect time to sort it out while access is good and before it’s becomes an issue 🔌⚡️👍
The wireless protocol GM is using for their battery management system is a new protocol called wBMS (wireless battery management system). Like WiFi / Bluetooth / BLE, it operates in the 2.4GHz ISM band, and it has a data-rate of 1.2Mbps which is similar to the data-rate of BLE, but I'd imagine that wBMS is heavily optimized for reduced latency and increased reliability for it's application compared to the other protocols. Pretty cool! Maybe this will be more widely adopted in the future with more electric vehicle manufacturers.
as an EE it still feels so backwards to me but on paper its substantial cost savings and I suppose it will be perfectly reliable too. I would personally rather see a bus system because I grew up always choosing wired whenever possible.
@@drkastenbrot Also an EE, and I totally understand. Every time I see something like this I think back to instances like the Toyota electronic throttle control failure, which ultimately was a software flaw in a system designed with no good hardware backup/override. I would hope that now the automotive industry has particularly rigorous testing for new technologies like wBMS, since it interfaces with such a critical component of the vehicle.
EE also; the design is backwards and pretty hilarious.. simplicity is key to engineering.. Tesla is a very successful backdoor company.. I'm 100% moder weaponry is their closed objective.. 2.4Ghz 1W signal will send its control board to the wall.. id rather have wires
Just a note on the termination resistors on the CAN bus lines: They are not there to tell any controller that the line ends, they are actually used to stop the signal being reflected at the open end (as it otherwise has nowhere to go and will reflect back). They are pretty important for signal integrity, especially at higher data rates. Respect for the project otherwise, you're doing all this in a really professional way and I'm sure it will end up a seriously awesome vehicle!
Gosh, this f*cking last year was harsh, lost some loved ones, lost my job and I'm at one step from loosing my house, but somehow this video made me "happycry" from seen your happiness and proudness. Cheers from Chile and congratulations for your baby and your e-humm!
@@CodeMerk the "eeeeeeeeee" noise is the carrier frequency of the variable frequency drive. I don't think you will be a able to hear it as loudly when everything will be closed, since it's a high frequency noise, easily blocked by even thin material.
This build has been such a privilege to watch and I’m so glad it’s coming together for you. The merging of all the different systems and components has obviously been a real challenge but you’ve done so well! This is really trailblazing stuff in terms of home built EV’s… well done 👍
When the tyres were spining i know every one had a small smile on there faces. damn watching this project were priceless 🤎 Keep it up jerry can't wait to see this on the street 🔥
Use a telephone line (cat 3) or Ethernet cable for your CANbus. It is the right insulation (LPDE) that has low capacitance and good dielectric properties, and it also has a well controlled impedance of 100 ohms, which is close to the official 120 ohms CANbus. You could use 100 ohm resistors for the best termination with minimal reflections, it should still work. I don't know if LPDE is the best choice for automotive though. The twisted pair runs the length of the vehicle with short stubs that branch off along the way to the peripherals. Only at each of the far ends does a termination resistor get installed.
@@thevillain2754 yup! The point of that is to prevent coupling between pairs. If two twisted pairs of the same twists per inch are run together they will still magnetically couple unless the phasing of the twists are set orthogonal, or 90 degrees. Twist rate is easier to control though, and more effective.
Its like watching your kid start walking, it's so sweet, can make a grown man cry ( I am 21, obvo I don't know the exact feeling of kids yet, but you get the point) . In future I also want to make a project like this when I have enough money and experience .
Really cool project and I was happy to see how far you have come so far. I am an electronics engineer from Germany. The only thing I would have changed is to isolate the batteries completely from the metal case to avoid contact with the case. I wish you continued success with your project.
Love this project! One worry though, in the case of an accident or extreme vibration, if the HV batteries came loose and the individual boxes’ positive and negative 90° terminals shorted to the metal case, the fuse would not disrupt that kind of short circuit. This would cause extreme currents to pass through the batteries, heating them immensely and would be a huge fire/ explosion risk. I think you should insulate the positive and negative terminals or add some rubber to the sides of the box near there to prevent that. Congratulations on a powered roll, and I can’t wait to see what’s next.
Actually not really true. If the modules are shorted, the cell fuses will blow quickly. Each cell has a small fuse wire on the positive and negative terminal. The danger with Tesla modules is overcharging them, that's how you end up with a thermal runaway scenario.
@@reider_mcfeely yeah but its still a huge risk having exposed terminals, not to mention they lifted the METAL CASE WITHOUT GLOVES over the exposed terminals after they went through all the safety before
@@pivotmaster9556 exposed terminals on one module or even 2 or 3 isn't very risky, the voltage isn't high enough to be dangerous as long as your hands aren't wet. The danger in that scenario is to the modules. A quick 2-3 second short across the terminals of a module could blow the cell fuses easily. DC is also inherently less dangerous than AC, since you need to contact both terminals with DC to create a circuit, whereas AC current just looks for a path to ground. It's why a common technique when dealing with high DC voltages is to use only one hand, so that you're unlikely to create a short and if you did it would go thru your fingers and not be as dangerous as if it crossed your heart to get to the other arm.
@@reider_mcfeely the two mains exposed are the positive and negative terminals of the entire 450V. Not just a single module.... The problem here is not only potentially fatal but very serious.
I'm sure (hoping) that what we saw here was a demo and not exactly the final solution. Like he said, he still needs to put finishing touches on it like running the conduit among other things. The exposed terminals jumped out to me as I was watching as well. Especially at 23:28...
Awesome project! I’m using an Orion2 BMS and 280Ah EVE cells for a 108v battery pack on my electric sailboat - I have salt water and a marine environment to contend with. Thanks for the safety suggestions and the real world assembly.
Nothing quite like that feeling of putting in all the micro steps into a vehicle project and feeling/hearing it not only turn on but roll forward even if it only is a a couple of feet for others its like a few miles in emotional high lol. I could hear it in your voice when getting ready to turn the key, then escalation with the driveshaft spinning and lastly when you rolled it that little bit. it definitely brought back all the times i have build a motor or vehicle project and heard it come to life that first time. Congratulations on the project so far, although there is a long way to go still this was a big step in the right direction keep up the great work and congrats to the new addition to the family.
Great work. This is one of the best build video series of any kind that I've watched on RUclips, and as someone interested in buying an EV in the coming year, it's super interesting to see all the engineering that goes into making them work.
1) The wire twisting creates a cancellation effect of the magnetic/electrical fields that cause distortion to the signal. 2) The reason that wire gets small as the number gets refers to when it was pulled through a die to get to that size. More pulls, smaller wires.
That truck first drive made a huge smile on my face, I felt a huge joy running through my veins and I can't imagine how happy was Zack at that moment Ps: I hope Zack did a summary of the total cost of this great project and share it with us
its amazing how electronics are like a puzzle, everything fits together perfectly and if one thing is messed up, everything doesnt work. in this case jerry did it right.
that's a great step towards a rolling HUMVEE :) One thing though, the gloves and insulated tools are great, but you lack a few things, electricity can kill you almost instantly, but, projection of molten debris and arc light from a short-circuit are equally dangerous, it burns you right to the bone, literally. You should look after face screens rated for electrical work, they have a UV filter against arc light and preserves your face against projections, second thing, I didn't see an insulated rug, it is a complement to the gloves and the insulated tools, it's the last barrier in case of involuntary contact with live conductors and trust me, accidental contact can happen quickly, even with wearing the right kind of equipment. One last thing, to you, your family and the team, I wish you all a happy new year ;)
Would be cool to see those battery boxes get powder coated. Also, you were probably already going to do this, but use rubber grommets in the holes the wires run through
slow clap, very slow clap. I do love you are showing people that after proper time spent doing homework, a complex job is just a bunch of simple straight forward problems. If you break them down small enough, that is. Today i clicked "Subscribe"
Congrats on getting her rolling! One small thing I wanted to bring to your attention - the thick 2 gauge orange wire that goes from one box to the next is being run through a hole you drilled into the boxes. That hole looks like it may have sharp edges that over time could scratch off the rubber coating on the wire. Maybe putting some time of soft material like even duct tape around the edge of the hole could lessen the effect?
There's conduit (see 0:46 ) connecting the boxes together that the wiring runs through. They simply removed it for showing purposes, the wire wont remain exposed.
You’ve got to love the ominous music when the boys were working with the batteries. Lol. Absolutely love the video. Can’t wait to see this project finished up.
This is awesome. I am amazed at the ingenuity and briliance of people and how projects like this can be shared with all! Not only is this motivating it is also entertaining. As these videos stand, they could immediately be put on the discovery chamnel. I wish the best for this team and there families. They will love this rig when on trails.
hey, cool project! really informative. You should watch out with (especially the high voltage) wires being exposed to (sharp) metal edges like the holes on 22:42, theres some rubber ish protection for that so the wire doesnt scratch and gets the metal exposed to the high voltage copper. I really recommend that or atleast some form of protection against those edges since you said you want to go offroad which causes a lot of vibration.
Came here to comment this as well. I'm sure that won't be his final setup, but it's definitely something that needs extra protection. I assume that he already has something in mind to prevent any shorts at that location but isn't including it for testing purposes.
One thing I would do, is add rubber gaskets to the holes in the boxes so that the cables wouldn't be resting against bare metal should they ever comes exposed (however unlikely).
Looks great! I'm was thinking about is the center battery/controller compartment. If you're putting an aluminum lid on that, I dont think the wireless CAN unit will make a decent connection to your laptop while being sealed in a metal box. Maybe not so bad if you're sitting on top of it though. Also, what about cooling for the BMS module. It's gotta create a lot of heat judging by those cooling fins on top of it. If that's sealed in the box it might get pretty warm in there.
Its probably both going to be fine, he will be right inside the car when connecting to it and the BMS doesnt actually get warm at all during normal usage. Its only when the pack degrades and needs lots of balancing where the BMS will give off a fair amount of heat. At that point its an fault condition anyways and needs to be addressed.
@@drkastenbrot I've never seen the actual BMS module at work so I was just judging by the fin stack. I figured the CAN module would still work, just with limited connectivity. I'd worry about a disconnect while writing something to it and bricking the module, but I don't know if it's to read/write to it or just monitor stats.
At 14:47 that's probably not dielectric grease, but most likely conductive grease. It's used where you want to lower the arc voltage's between surfaces, such as two surfaces that haven't been precision milled but you need to make sure there's a solid connection. Awesome job btw, as an EE this is awesome nerd candy for me. Hopefully watching this project will get my girls interested in what their dad does for a living.
You have ONE nice narrative voice I've heard in 20 years !!!! Do documentary narrative for Hollywood or something. Super interesting, thanks for sharing 👍
Amazing job! One side note tho, please insulate the holes seen at 25:09 on both sides with rubber rings, aswell as the central nuts (22:38, and so on), since with the car flexing, it might be tearing the big cables due to rubbing against the bare metal holes, and the nuts beeing super close to the casing.
A couple of things to look out for. Inductive capacitance. This is when a current is induced into a circuit simply by being near another circuit. It can either mess up things by giving data errors or build up to the point of explosive discharge frying components or anyone who touches a circuit they think should be cold. Resistance induced errors. When dealing with things like thermocouples one on the end of a one foot wire will give different readings to an identical one in the same location but on a twenty foot length of wire. If you add in noise from RF interference and induced currents a long sensor lead can give very incorrect readings or cause ecu faults.
Exactly what I was thinking when I saw all the unshielded the BMS wires right behind the bus bars. As an electrical engineer I have concerns about the magnetic interference on the BMS wires when high current is flowing on the bus bars. Hope it works in the end.
Dude I cant even tell you how sexy that freaking wiring is. I have never seen a wiring harness made with such precision when it has this much going on. 10/10
![BLACK BAG - Official Trailer [HD] - Only in Theaters March 14](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Du0Xp8WX_7I/mqdefault.jpg)
2 best pandemic projects on RUclips
1. Zack's humV
2. Colin's tunnel
Thanks Zack! Happy new year to everyone!
Very true
Facts
Couldnt agree more
1000% true fact
totally agree!
Dude, I have watched nearly all of your videos, and among the entertaining, several of them have really warmed my heart. But this series hits me deeply and makes me so happy: My dad was an electrician his entire life. Highschool dropout and a vet, the guy put himself through trade schools and educated himself on the job to where he had the knowledge to do much of what you are doing and had a dream of putting together his own electric car out of frustration that the big 3 couldn't figure it out. He passed in 2016 and wasn't able to make that happen. He'd have loved to watch this, he'd have loved to lend a hand, and I know he'd have loved to see someone making this happen. Thanks man!
Hey Jerry , I’m in engineering for a EV truck bus manufacturer.
I have a few suggestions .
1. EMI shield the power battery cables and the 3 phase cables from motor controller to the controller . At higher speeds you will create alot of noise that will disrupt all your CAN and Cell sampling .
You shielded the parallel CAN by twisting the pair but you need to protect them from external emi so you can also shield and ground the low voltage wires .
2. That’s is a great battery design , but I suggest you fill in the sides of the battery box to keep the inertia/vibrations from flexing and breaking the modules case . If your modules flex around inside the casing it will break the bus bars because they are solid copper coated with nickel so no flexing in that material . So basically make it the battery box really snug for the modules .
I hope he sees this comment. And his name is not Jerry. It was his grandfather’s. His name is Zack. 😋
Upvote so Zack could see
@@moonsapling I forget his real name , but your right it’s zack 😅
If there will be emi then how can they use wireless bms in it?
This is one of those things I love about this video series, not only we get to know Zack's insight of the project, but also people like you who are *actually* experienced and educated in this field putting in suggestions! Big ups, sir!
Such an achievement getting the wheels to move. Props to jerry and everyone who is helping him, he managed to turn a vehicle that's not at all designed to be electric and made it so, in his freaking garage!!
It’s Zach not jerry
@@xploration1437 I think it’s his grandpa or something
Have you ever heard of Rich Rebuilds or Ryan Mayer? Or any other car-centered channel ever? Rich recently built a V8 Tesla. Ryan Mayer builds SEMA trucks in his garage.
Clear subfloor
That's a shop . Not just a garage
This project is getting better and better, and his face when the drive shaft started spinning was priceless!
HELLO!!! I want to spend time with celebrities. Just kidding. GAGAGAGAGA! I only want to spend time with my two girlfriends and record videos for RUclips with the 3 of us. OH YEAH. Don't hate me for living the best life, dear kate
@@sa.t.2507 6m6
Seems like it’s a bigger hassle than just buying an electric car
@@TKUA11 he will have the only one in existence and he will be able to say he made it. That's the whole point. Someone has to make the first of something before you can buy it. If everyone thought like you we would still be in the dark ages. Edison didn't wait for a light bulb to magically appear in his local Walmart. Be a change don't wait for one.
I can’t stop watching Seven Hunnid on RUclips lol
suggestions:
1-insulate the terminals
2-Put some "cushion" to the batteries on the sides
3-Add a refrigeration system to the batteries
For #3, he mentioned the battery packs have channels for liquid cooling, but after he showed the three conduits [only], I wasn't sure if he was going to go through with the cooling system [yet].
Been waiting for this the whole week, this is the only series that i watch and check the progress bar every 30 sec hoping it doesn't end at all 😂
Same
Honestly it's better when you don't check the progress bar
Ooh yeah me too
Best videos on RUclips currently. Great content top tier
You need a life bro
Must be an incredible feeling to finally get it moving under its own power :)
Can't wait for your bike's new episode! You are awesome man.
My favorite mechanic youtuber commenting on my favorite phone destroying youtuber's video!
not enough volts, needs at least 10000
The fiero
this must be the greatest crossover episode of all time!
This is no small feat. This is huge! What a massive inspiration for a new future. Wow. This is your legacy.
I don't know why, but the moment notification arrives for this i open it with the flash like speed. Great work, can't wait to see the result and make my own electric vehicle one day
Same 😅
Same man 😌
Same
Yep! Same
Exactly
"We probably shouldn't be doing this, but..." - Every first drive I've ever done.
every first drive should be sketch it a law or something.
Surely you can only have one *first* drive
@@FreddieFatFingers multiple vehicles?
@@briannem.6787 oh yeah, you right :P
It's the softer version of 'Hold my beer'
As I am a retired (45 yrs. in and as an) Electrorincs Engineering tech Large Sawmill - Headrigs and 500 HP Gang edgers, former USN Aircract Electronics tech (ASW, AT3), USAF AutoTrack Radar tech 30333, USArmy Infantry, I would offer an A+ for what you showed us in this video. Safety was paramount with death so close... great job! I am sure you'll fix the no grommets without me saying anything... you got it to move without destroying your shop. Everyone waqtching what you did should be very impressed. -- Take Care - Radar 71 and still alive Jerry Rigging all the way.
12:24, careful, blue loctite will eat away at many plastics making them extremely brittle. The product spec for 243 recommends keeping it away from all plastics.
"This product is not normally recommended for use on plastics
(particularly thermoplastic materials where stress cracking of the
plastic could result). Users are recommended to confirm compatibility
of the product with such substrates."
As electrican,i would advice you to put a edge protection around the holes where you put the wires trough,not that the isolation gets damaged on the metal edges when going over bumpy roads.But amazing work,i love it
I agree but I did hear him say he’d put grommets/glands around those sharp edges when he actually puts it into the vehicle.
Yeah, I saw that too. I’d install them before the wires to make sure you don’t forget any…
yeah some rubber grommet will do just nice
It’s been my experience with wiring ( both from my job building sensors for The United States Airforce and my hobby as A Car Audio Freak)
That only crimping those pin connections ISN’T enough to ensure they are solid enough.
I always go the extra mile and solder the part and the wire.
And it’s done because the USAF DEMANDS It to be DONE, not because I want to!
And since they have it that way, I decided to do that with my own projects.
Haven’t had a single failure on ANY wire connection since.
This project is DEAR to my heart ❤️, because my father was involved with the initial development of the HumVee as Commadant of the Ft Eustis, Va Transportation College.
I’m so very impressed with your efforts!!
30 minutes e-hummer video ❤️ it truly is Christmas 🌲
23:00 - one comment here, you should use thread deforming all metal lock nuts instead of normal jam nuts for your HV connections. Vehicles see a lot of vibrations and these nuts could potentially come loose, but a thread deforming nut is highly unlikely to ever come loose from vibrations. Nylocs don't work because the high currents going through these connections can melt the nylon.
Are nordloc washers safe for this application?
@@afromaximus they are probably fine. My experience is in formula student where our rulebook forbids those as they rely on pre-tensioning. Since I'm an electrical engineer, I'm not too familiar with fasteners apart from what I'm allowed to use by our rules so I can't say for certain
@@GrenYT Interesting, I can confirm they are excellent for 8G vibration provided they are pretensioned correctly as you mentioned.
@@afromaximus formula student is a university competition so they only really allow safety wire, nylocks, all metal thread deforming nuts, and tab washers to make it easy to see whether it was done properly.
@@afromaximus Yes, Jack Rickard of EVTV proved they were right for the job several years ago.
I really like how you have solved many problem even without tutorials for your project. This is real innovation right here.
Loving this series.
Safety tip for working with dangerous voltage and current: Don't lean on the chassis and most important use only one hand at a time of possible and keep the other behind your back.
It's grounding across the torso that is most deadly, keep your heart out of the curcuit path.
The chassis is floating, not grounded, with respect to the HV battery.
@@vidznstuff1 I was about to point that out, as long as those batteries aren't connected to anything that could ground them, touching anything with one hand is theoretically safe. However accidents happen so this probably isn't a bright idea. and iven if you insulate yourself from ground, those can still hurt. because the potential of those batteries is not equal to ground.Though I suspect it is really close with air discharging and them connected through BMS which is grounded through external power
also, dont wear necklaces, chains, rings or watches, etc. - just keep it as a general rule of thumb.
@@MegaWebinator And you can forget your tinfoil hat, it never helped anyone.
;-)
@@BoB-Dobbs_leaning-left as a trained professional i can show you evident proof of People whom been permanenetly disabled for wearing said things. :D
love the progress on the Humvee 😎
You need rubber grommets to prevent the conduit cabling rubbing on the edges of the metal holes. Great video as always, Happy new year !
They will probably add them later this is a test assembly
Yeah good suggestion indeed
No doubt, I would imagine they probably know with this level of know how but things get over looked all the time
I'm pretty sure he already has something to prevent that shown in an earlier video. He just didn't put them on yet for the test because they'd have to come off again when he installs the batteries in the humvee.
he already said he will be running them in conduit
Congrats on getting your project to the rolling stage. I do have a very real concern about the exposed +/- battery terminals being within a 1/2 inch of a conductive aluminum panel. There is insulation sheet material (Fiberglass GP03) that can be installed around the inside of the battery boxes that will take an impact and keep the HV terminals from shorting out on the aluminum box. Rubber will not do as it will deform and allow the terminals to contact the aluminum in the event of an impact due to an accident.
As an electrician myself this work is amazing, I haven’t worked on auto electrical but know a lot about ELV/DC systems. My favorite series on RUclips at the moment by far
I know im a little late but you have no idea how excited i got when you got the wheels turning and than the whole thing ROLLING!
A long time ago, I was a Navy nuclear propulsion nerd, turned anti-submarine warfare tech. At the time I was in school, battery banks on our boats were largely lead-acid cells in massive SP configurations. An uninsulated busbar + uninsulated tool made for a real crap day for some of my classmates, instilling in me a healthy respect/fear balance of electricity that follows me to this day.
Later on, as an ASW guy working with P3's, the commands I was attached to were served by huge diesel generator-fed battery banks, so big they filled a 48ft trailer! I was not thrilled. Interesting to say in hindsight, definitely the most dangerous part of my military service was batteries! After combat, living underwater, flying in the P3 fleet; it was definitely batteries that killed people in my job more than anything else.
WOW . A cautionary tale.!
This project is amazing and I love following it. I do have a safety concern with the driveshaft going through the battery enclosure in the event of something failing. I would look into a drive shaft hoop to protect the box in case the u joint fails from all the new torque it’s definitely not rated for. Last thing you want is a flailing driveshaft smashing into your battery enclosure.
The size and weight of the vehicle and the tires against the drive shafts causes me to worry about reliability of the electrical system in especially hard jumps at speed. Please be careful and do not let some careless reckless person drive this until you well test this. Great video! The music really builds Tension! Great speaking ability. WOW!!!
@@dporrasxtremeLS3 Certainly a HumVee was never meant for "hard jumps at speed". You buy a Raptor for that!
the best electric "hummer" project in the world and the only. i cant wait until this beauty finished
Really satisfying to see all the wiring getting all organized, wrapped, hooked up, and then working properly! The battery arrangement is so clean. Must feel amazing to get to this point! Nice work Zack!
Super happy to see that the project isn't over yet, so we'll have lots of fun watching the continuous progress of this truck next year 😋
Hey Jerry, I believe you should cover those terminals with some insulation. The cells may move around and short out on the aluminum box.
same thing i was thinking!!!
his name is zack :)
@@LIFEOFSTUFFEDANIMALS He answers to both Zack and Jerry
definitely needs insulation to prevent shorting against the Al box
same thing I was think and You should wrap cells tap wire with orange tape.
23:28 that looks like a good place for the wrench to weld itself to the case, if there is any conductive path from the battery to the box...
PLEASE insulte the box wall that covers the terminals!
Watching that had me nervous
I was thinking the same thing! I really hope he insulated the batteries from the box or that could go really really bad should something happen
Insulting the walls won't help 😛 For this beeing an issue, you would need a double fault, where the negative terminal also touches the walls, but still. Uneccessary risk that can be easily mitigated by glueing a rubber mat around the terminal..
@@fabianfeilcke7220 what? Yes it will. With an insulated wall, you need 3 points of failure. Currently you only need 2
@@hansdietrich83 read again what you wrote above
Usually I don’t stay around for the full 30 minutes RUclips videos, skipping periodically, but this series I have watched every single second. Congratulations and thank you for sharing these awesome videos!
This video started auto playing while I was eating. I stayed because this dudes voice made everything sound amazing. Great articulation skills
Thank you!
the moment its starts moving, it gave a big smile of how far and near Zack has been doing with the electric Hummer all this time
Warning for the loctite 243 used at 12:30: Loctite makes most plastics brittle over time. You will end up seeing the plastic break and possibley drop those screws onto the PCB below it. You are far better off using a nylock nut on the outside with the screw head inside (also cover it with kapton tape).
Seconding the kapton tape. But sugessting you print a new top that can take the other device.
29:31 is my favourite part. Every car build I've ever been a part of - literally every single one - has had that moment of "we shouldn't do this..." followed by us doing whatever it was we weren't supposed to do!
Latecomer to this build but potentially your biggest fan already. Top work sir!
This series has made everyone's day. Absolutely epic!!
Watch out for Eddy Currents indused into the metal structure of the boxes. Since you've run positive and negative wires in separate holes going through the metal wall of the box, this will create Eddy Current in the metal. This will cause great loss of power, heat up the metal in the box and create interference in electronics. To avoid this run both cables through same Conduit.
Except that there's DC current flowing in those wires, and Eddy currents only occur when variable magnetic fields are present. The only situation it could be problematic is during sudden acceleration/regenerative breaking when the current changes rapidly, but without running the numbers I can't really say if it ends up being relevant.
Edit: it also occured to me that given the orientation of the cables with respect to the box's surface, the magnetic field flux through the metal volume is only accounted by the thickness of the metal plate, thus the induced current should flow from inner to outer surface and vice versa, not along the faces. Even being quite ticc as they are, there is not much space for the Eddy currents to develop and dissipate energy thickness-wise.
Your narration is therapeutic! What could be more exciting than watching your build this!
It might be good to buy dedicated CAN bus cable that is already jacketed and/or shielded. These are rated and tested to meet CAN bus requirements. CAN networks requires differential impedance control to maintain signal integrity, which for twisted pairs is determined by the conductor, dielectric between, and distance between wires. With a loose twisted pair it might not work over longer distances or with higher interference.
That 'crusty compound' on the battery terminals was not dielectric. It was a conductive paste needed for high current connections to prevent hot spots in the connections.
yea I was pretty surprised they bolted it all up dry. Hopefully it doesn't get too corroded later down the road.
@@frostbite1991 He is figuring it out as he goes. It's good feedback though.
Ohhhh 😕
how much of a fuck up was it that they scraped it all off?
@@buckmanriver yea I'm hoping they go back and rebuild the packs with conductive paste, I know it'll suck to do though. Been loving this series so far, great to see how far he's come from testing phone durability.
I'm Nabil from Morocco I'm planning to start an electric bikes project, and I was following you since the beginning of the project, you are just amazing bro keep going, wish you all the best ⚡🙏
you know how invested you're getting in to a video series when you're getting just as excited as Zack when the hummer starts moving.
Dude , i smiled so hard when i saw the wheels moving , this project is more like a journey to me , i have ben enjoying tech with you since forever , you saw some of my comments once but now i wish this reaches you,
I’m proud to be your subscriber and a virtual friend over the years!
I really enjoyed this project and can’t wait to see it runnin the streets!
My man you are the DIY symbol for me , wishing you and your family specially lil jerry all the happiness you could get ..
Enjoy your year Zack, always got ur back buddy ❤️
Just a note:
You should be using HV wires with a braided shield, it will decrease the eletromagnetic noise in the car
It is also advise to use proper CAN cables
Twisted pair, screened, shielded. Their hope is that the cable runs are short. And they'll figure it out pretty soon if it's ok or not.
Yes agreed
Great episode. Much respect to the individuals who do this kind of 'no errors allowed job' every day
This gave me so much anxiety especially while seeing the wiring of the batteries, but it was satisfying to see the Hummer move. This is one of the finest series on RUclips
Didn't realize that I was smiling the whole time watching this. Brilliant job, Jerry and the Team...😁
CAN network - controller area network network 😉. The resistor on the ends are called terminators. The CAN bus protocol is pretty cool and relatively simple. It was fun to work with the CAN aerospace protocol as it has grown.
"Not only will it kill you... But, it will hurt the whole time."
Words to live by, my man.
The world would need more such sensible and creative people than you .
And a big like :D
One small roll for a Hummer EV, one giant roll for Hummer EV kind. Congrats on your second biggest accomplishment of 2021!
I was going to ask "what was his first?", then I remembered he had a baby.
This is such an incredible project! Enjoying every episode thoroughly. Can't wait for season 2 on Netflix 🙂👍
Watching this EV build while doing cardio hehe 😎 who better than Jerry to carry out this project
I am concerned on the holes that the wiring is coming out of and coming into the metal boxes - those holes do not look sharp, but they are not well rounded either - during riding it was rub on the edge and wear out the insulation on cables, in theory. A rubber ring insert will do wonders there, I think.
I don’t think it will be an issue once he adds the conduit between. Then there won’t be any rubbing on sharp or rounded edges lol
Was looking for this comment. Good practice is to have a plastic plug in those holes and then the wire feeding trough that.
I think covering the metal edges of those holes with rubber is a must.
So glad someone added this comment. The exposed edges of those holes will inevitably pose a risk to the insulation around the cables - now is the perfect time to sort it out while access is good and before it’s becomes an issue 🔌⚡️👍
^This, Hopefully he’s already accounted for this and is waiting for the grommets. If not, hopefully he sees these comments.
The wireless protocol GM is using for their battery management system is a new protocol called wBMS (wireless battery management system). Like WiFi / Bluetooth / BLE, it operates in the 2.4GHz ISM band, and it has a data-rate of 1.2Mbps which is similar to the data-rate of BLE, but I'd imagine that wBMS is heavily optimized for reduced latency and increased reliability for it's application compared to the other protocols. Pretty cool! Maybe this will be more widely adopted in the future with more electric vehicle manufacturers.
as an EE it still feels so backwards to me but on paper its substantial cost savings and I suppose it will be perfectly reliable too. I would personally rather see a bus system because I grew up always choosing wired whenever possible.
@@drkastenbrot Also an EE, and I totally understand. Every time I see something like this I think back to instances like the Toyota electronic throttle control failure, which ultimately was a software flaw in a system designed with no good hardware backup/override. I would hope that now the automotive industry has particularly rigorous testing for new technologies like wBMS, since it interfaces with such a critical component of the vehicle.
EE also; the design is backwards and pretty hilarious.. simplicity is key to engineering.. Tesla is a very successful backdoor company.. I'm 100% moder weaponry is their closed objective.. 2.4Ghz 1W signal will send its control board to the wall.. id rather have wires
@@ohmslaw6856 Id like to point out that this nutcase is not an EE
@@drkastenbrot ?, why would i lie about being an EE? Lmao.. EE with a minor in mechanical.. ABET University btw
This is one of the best series I've ever taken part of. The point when the tire started rolling I had a big smile on my face and it came automatically
“Not only will it kill you. But it will hurt the entire time you’re dying” I love you, Zach. That’s hilarious
Such an awesome line!
Isn't that a reference to Portal (2)?
An often quoted line, but completely appropriate here.
Just a note on the termination resistors on the CAN bus lines: They are not there to tell any controller that the line ends, they are actually used to stop the signal being reflected at the open end (as it otherwise has nowhere to go and will reflect back). They are pretty important for signal integrity, especially at higher data rates.
Respect for the project otherwise, you're doing all this in a really professional way and I'm sure it will end up a seriously awesome vehicle!
Gosh, this f*cking last year was harsh, lost some loved ones, lost my job and I'm at one step from loosing my house, but somehow this video made me "happycry" from seen your happiness and proudness. Cheers from Chile and congratulations for your baby and your e-humm!
LOVE how quiet it is!
Wait, am I the only one who hears the super loud "Eeeeeeee" noise as it moves the wheels?
@@CodeMerk the "eeeeeeeeee" noise is the carrier frequency of the variable frequency drive. I don't think you will be a able to hear it as loudly when everything will be closed, since it's a high frequency noise, easily blocked by even thin material.
@@UhOhUmm hopefully because that thing was loud
I hate the high frequency sound. Nissan Leaf's are really bad for it, can hear them coming from a mile away. Tesla's dont seem to make it.
Eeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee lol
This build has been such a privilege to watch and I’m so glad it’s coming together for you. The merging of all the different systems and components has obviously been a real challenge but you’ve done so well! This is really trailblazing stuff in terms of home built EV’s… well done 👍
I'm studying electricity I love everything electric related and this is one of the best videos
When the tyres were spining i know every one had a small smile on there faces. damn watching this project were priceless 🤎 Keep it up jerry can't wait to see this on the street 🔥
Use a telephone line (cat 3) or Ethernet cable for your CANbus. It is the right insulation (LPDE) that has low capacitance and good dielectric properties, and it also has a well controlled impedance of 100 ohms, which is close to the official 120 ohms CANbus. You could use 100 ohm resistors for the best termination with minimal reflections, it should still work. I don't know if LPDE is the best choice for automotive though. The twisted pair runs the length of the vehicle with short stubs that branch off along the way to the peripherals. Only at each of the far ends does a termination resistor get installed.
And also comes conveniently pre-twisted to various twist rates
@@thevillain2754 yup! The point of that is to prevent coupling between pairs. If two twisted pairs of the same twists per inch are run together they will still magnetically couple unless the phasing of the twists are set orthogonal, or 90 degrees. Twist rate is easier to control though, and more effective.
Its like watching your kid start walking, it's so sweet, can make a grown man cry ( I am 21, obvo I don't know the exact feeling of kids yet, but you get the point) . In future I also want to make a project like this when I have enough money and experience .
Really cool project and I was happy to see how far you have come so far. I am an electronics engineer from Germany. The only thing I would have changed is to isolate the batteries completely from the metal case to avoid contact with the case.
I wish you continued success with your project.
Love this project! One worry though, in the case of an accident or extreme vibration, if the HV batteries came loose and the individual boxes’ positive and negative 90° terminals shorted to the metal case, the fuse would not disrupt that kind of short circuit. This would cause extreme currents to pass through the batteries, heating them immensely and would be a huge fire/ explosion risk. I think you should insulate the positive and negative terminals or add some rubber to the sides of the box near there to prevent that.
Congratulations on a powered roll, and I can’t wait to see what’s next.
Actually not really true. If the modules are shorted, the cell fuses will blow quickly. Each cell has a small fuse wire on the positive and negative terminal.
The danger with Tesla modules is overcharging them, that's how you end up with a thermal runaway scenario.
I was actually looking for a comment like this. I don't think the fuse wouldn't blow but the unisolated 90° angles are giving me headaches
@@reider_mcfeely yeah but its still a huge risk having exposed terminals, not to mention they lifted the METAL CASE WITHOUT GLOVES over the exposed terminals after they went through all the safety before
@@pivotmaster9556 exposed terminals on one module or even 2 or 3 isn't very risky, the voltage isn't high enough to be dangerous as long as your hands aren't wet. The danger in that scenario is to the modules. A quick 2-3 second short across the terminals of a module could blow the cell fuses easily.
DC is also inherently less dangerous than AC, since you need to contact both terminals with DC to create a circuit, whereas AC current just looks for a path to ground. It's why a common technique when dealing with high DC voltages is to use only one hand, so that you're unlikely to create a short and if you did it would go thru your fingers and not be as dangerous as if it crossed your heart to get to the other arm.
@@reider_mcfeely the two mains exposed are the positive and negative terminals of the entire 450V. Not just a single module.... The problem here is not only potentially fatal but very serious.
I had a biggest smile when everything start spinning can't imagine how you feel then. Amazing serial 👏
do the frames not have any risk of shorting the terminals of the batteries, say if they were impacted and contacted the batteries?
Was wondering the same, would it not be better to have them covered?
Good point
Yeah I don't understand why the terminals weren't covered in some form of insulation before putting the boxes together
I'm sure (hoping) that what we saw here was a demo and not exactly the final solution. Like he said, he still needs to put finishing touches on it like running the conduit among other things. The exposed terminals jumped out to me as I was watching as well. Especially at 23:28...
Awesome project! I’m using an Orion2 BMS and 280Ah EVE cells for a 108v battery pack on my electric sailboat - I have salt water and a marine environment to contend with. Thanks for the safety suggestions and the real world assembly.
Nothing quite like that feeling of putting in all the micro steps into a vehicle project and feeling/hearing it not only turn on but roll forward even if it only is a a couple of feet for others its like a few miles in emotional high lol. I could hear it in your voice when getting ready to turn the key, then escalation with the driveshaft spinning and lastly when you rolled it that little bit. it definitely brought back all the times i have build a motor or vehicle project and heard it come to life that first time.
Congratulations on the project so far, although there is a long way to go still this was a big step in the right direction keep up the great work and congrats to the new addition to the family.
This is so AWESOME! congratulations!
Great work. This is one of the best build video series of any kind that I've watched on RUclips, and as someone interested in buying an EV in the coming year, it's super interesting to see all the engineering that goes into making them work.
I’m literally almost crying of excitement to see this project almost done and it looks so gooooood
1) The wire twisting creates a cancellation effect of the magnetic/electrical fields that cause distortion to the signal.
2) The reason that wire gets small as the number gets refers to when it was pulled through a die to get to that size. More pulls, smaller wires.
1) Um...no
@@vidznstuff1 Explain?
I love this series. I'm already sad that it's coming to an end
Very very happy to see that your Own electric Humvee is rolling on its own Power...Keep Rocking Man, Waiting to see it rolling on road
That truck first drive made a huge smile on my face, I felt a huge joy running through my veins and I can't imagine how happy was Zack at that moment
Ps: I hope Zack did a summary of the total cost of this great project and share it with us
its amazing how electronics are like a puzzle, everything fits together perfectly and if one thing is messed up, everything doesnt work. in this case jerry did it right.
The music choice in this video was crazy good! I was on edge the whole time, amazing project
that's a great step towards a rolling HUMVEE :)
One thing though, the gloves and insulated tools are great, but you lack a few things, electricity can kill you almost instantly, but, projection of molten debris and arc light from a short-circuit are equally dangerous, it burns you right to the bone, literally. You should look after face screens rated for electrical work, they have a UV filter against arc light and preserves your face against projections, second thing, I didn't see an insulated rug, it is a complement to the gloves and the insulated tools, it's the last barrier in case of involuntary contact with live conductors and trust me, accidental contact can happen quickly, even with wearing the right kind of equipment.
One last thing, to you, your family and the team, I wish you all a happy new year ;)
Would be cool to see those battery boxes get powder coated. Also, you were probably already going to do this, but use rubber grommets in the holes the wires run through
slow clap, very slow clap. I do love you are showing people that after proper time spent doing homework, a complex job is just a bunch of simple straight forward problems. If you break them down small enough, that is. Today i clicked "Subscribe"
Happy New year, Zack and Zack Jr!
I wish you a year of *scratches at a level 6 with deeper grooves at a level 7!* 👌🏻
Congrats on getting her rolling! One small thing I wanted to bring to your attention - the thick 2 gauge orange wire that goes from one box to the next is being run through a hole you drilled into the boxes. That hole looks like it may have sharp edges that over time could scratch off the rubber coating on the wire. Maybe putting some time of soft material like even duct tape around the edge of the hole could lessen the effect?
There's conduit (see 0:46 ) connecting the boxes together that the wiring runs through. They simply removed it for showing purposes, the wire wont remain exposed.
@@jrharbortproductions Awesome I missed that, thanks for the heads up!
You’ve got to love the ominous music when the boys were working with the batteries. Lol. Absolutely love the video. Can’t wait to see this project finished up.
This is awesome. I am amazed at the ingenuity and briliance of people and how projects like this can be shared with all! Not only is this motivating it is also entertaining. As these videos stand, they could immediately be put on the discovery chamnel. I wish the best for this team and there families. They will love this rig when on trails.
hey, cool project! really informative. You should watch out with (especially the high voltage) wires being exposed to (sharp) metal edges like the holes on 22:42, theres some rubber ish protection for that so the wire doesnt scratch and gets the metal exposed to the high voltage copper. I really recommend that or atleast some form of protection against those edges since you said you want to go offroad which causes a lot of vibration.
Yup brushing against sharp edges might short it eventually.
Came here to comment this as well. I'm sure that won't be his final setup, but it's definitely something that needs extra protection. I assume that he already has something in mind to prevent any shorts at that location but isn't including it for testing purposes.
Was thinking the exact same thing. Maybe there will be changes made before final instillation?
0:46 - as someone has said already in the comments
The tap wires are also high voltage wires, so there is a lot to be wary about! The thinkness is just misleading in that regard!
Those wheels spinning put a smile on my face, its so amazing to see it all come together
One thing I would do, is add rubber gaskets to the holes in the boxes so that the cables wouldn't be resting against bare metal should they ever comes exposed (however unlikely).
100% agree.
We sell all kinds of Bitcoin miners send a direct message via the contact 👆
Looks great! I'm was thinking about is the center battery/controller compartment. If you're putting an aluminum lid on that, I dont think the wireless CAN unit will make a decent connection to your laptop while being sealed in a metal box. Maybe not so bad if you're sitting on top of it though. Also, what about cooling for the BMS module. It's gotta create a lot of heat judging by those cooling fins on top of it. If that's sealed in the box it might get pretty warm in there.
Its probably both going to be fine, he will be right inside the car when connecting to it and the BMS doesnt actually get warm at all during normal usage. Its only when the pack degrades and needs lots of balancing where the BMS will give off a fair amount of heat. At that point its an fault condition anyways and needs to be addressed.
@@drkastenbrot I've never seen the actual BMS module at work so I was just judging by the fin stack.
I figured the CAN module would still work, just with limited connectivity. I'd worry about a disconnect while writing something to it and bricking the module, but I don't know if it's to read/write to it or just monitor stats.
It’s a lot of electricity and heat involved in this machine’s work so please keep it safe! I love your work!!
Was eagerly waiting for this video. Enjoyed this series a lot. Hope to see the final prototype very soon.
At 14:47 that's probably not dielectric grease, but most likely conductive grease. It's used where you want to lower the arc voltage's between surfaces, such as two surfaces that haven't been precision milled but you need to make sure there's a solid connection. Awesome job btw, as an EE this is awesome nerd candy for me. Hopefully watching this project will get my girls interested in what their dad does for a living.
You have ONE nice narrative voice I've heard in 20 years !!!! Do documentary narrative for Hollywood or something. Super interesting, thanks for sharing 👍
Amazing job! One side note tho, please insulate the holes seen at 25:09 on both sides with rubber rings, aswell as the central nuts (22:38, and so on), since with the car flexing, it might be tearing the big cables due to rubbing against the bare metal holes, and the nuts beeing super close to the casing.
A couple of things to look out for.
Inductive capacitance.
This is when a current is induced into a circuit simply by being near another circuit. It can either mess up things by giving data errors or build up to the point of explosive discharge frying components or anyone who touches a circuit they think should be cold.
Resistance induced errors.
When dealing with things like thermocouples one on the end of a one foot wire will give different readings to an identical one in the same location but on a twenty foot length of wire.
If you add in noise from RF interference and induced currents a long sensor lead can give very incorrect readings or cause ecu faults.
Exactly what I was thinking when I saw all the unshielded the BMS wires right behind the bus bars.
As an electrical engineer I have concerns about the magnetic interference on the BMS wires when high current is flowing on the bus bars.
Hope it works in the end.
Dude I cant even tell you how sexy that freaking wiring is. I have never seen a wiring harness made with such precision when it has this much going on. 10/10
22:00 If you should stay away from the battery terminals, isn't moving a metal box over it with your bare hands extremely dangerous?
Seriously that was frightening to see. The terminals were completely bare!
hahahah i know that was fucked. at least its not like a 450 volt capacitor but still bro
I doubt the shock from those 3 cells will be too high, but a short on those terminals? Yeah that will blow sth up