Very nice video! The range of this setup (especially with a beam this focused) is necessarily a major improvement over any other available DIY "IR blaster" for the Flipper Zero. To anyone interested in building a GPIO IR blaster (with or without a torch/lens), I highly recommend using Osram IR LEDs, models SFH4544 (20-degree beam) or SFH4545 (10-degree beam), or a combination of the two + a basic NPN transistor. Exceptional results (30+ meters without a lens). They tolerate the 5V / 20mA pulse combo very well without any resistor, despite their 1.7V nominal forward voltage, at 100mA.
Could you please share the connections and parts to make one that combines the two IR LEDs? I am afraid I don't know much about designing circuits, but I can build based on a schematic :) ... your help would be very much appreciated.
@@chrismy hey. if you're only using 2 LEDs i suppose you can just put them in series with a 47Ω resistor and set the flipper to 5V (not sure what it outputs otherwise but it's probably not enough for the LEDs)
Thank you so much to Ray, that help me with troubeshooting, I was not able to make it works, if this i formation is helpful, I was using awg 22 cable, and I think it causes some noise, I just replace cable and now it's working as expected. Great tutorial!
couldn't find the 4 LED model you got there, but I did find a 1 LED one, also 5W. also been looking into using more high power ones (without the scope unless I can find a giant flashlight with a lens) but it's been tricky figuring out the switching. so far i've considered an optocoupler that switches a transistor that switches a mosfet that would finally be able to handle the power going through it...
Update: I connected the flipper to an optocoupler (pins 1,2). Pins 2,3 connected to battery + and gate on an irf3205. source to battery - and drain to battery +. Also, a 10K resistor between gate and battery -. This way, when the optocoupler is on, the gate gets 3.7(?)V and the LED turns on. However, it's extremely weak. Only reasons I can think of are, either the LED doesn't get to full brightness before the pulse is over, or the 3.#V isn't enough to fully 'open' the gate (though it should be enough, irf3205 is 2-4V gate threshold). I will try powering the optocoupler manually, if it's an LED response time issue it should turn fully on. If not, I'll have to take a closer look at the MOSFET
Update #2: I removed the optocoupler and connected the flipper directly to the MOSFET, it is way brighter now. This effectively removes the circuit isolation though. Will see how much of a scope it is, later ;D
Update #3: Well, it's not going to reach 300ft but it's definitely more powerful than the built-in LED. I'll try making my own board with 10W LED's at some point.
I am about to use a control board, a 60a esc with a small lipo and a potentiometer. The control board lets me arrange low pass filters in all kinds of fun ways. Potentially I’ll be able to get quite specific with the ir pulse beam and it will be screaming rather than a whisper. 😅
great video and a really cool project, I may do this myself! One comment though, optocouplers are essentially a small IR emitter and receiver. You should put a current limiting resistor somewhere in series with pins 1 or 2 to protect the emitter from possibly burning out. Great work!
Great tutorial, as always! You're one of the few people on youtube who actually know how to solder properly, which makes me irrationally happy! Can you perhaps demonstrate the range difference?
Thank you! I haven't tested it out much only on my TV from outside the house through the window, maybe 30 meters away which worked buy you have to aim it. I tried the interal IR from the same distance, and it didn't work, so it was better than the internal IR. But by how much exactly I can be sure. I might see if I can do a comparison of some sorts in the future.
Looks great, I’ve been wanting to do this for so long but I am a person who second guesses my self and would never be able to confidently try this on my own. I’m guessing I won’t be able to find publicly available ones? I would love to buy one from you if it would not be to much trouble.
Hi Ray, can you tell us what is your camera/microscope? Thank you for this new amazing video ❤6 month ago I sold my Creality Cr20Pro...but. Xmas is close! 😊 I need a new one to do some parts/cases. I want to do tutos like you for French people's can we talk in private about that ?
No, max current for 4N33 around 130 mA. I've try to 100% repeat this with no luck. IR Torch as in this video used around 0.7 A. If we try to turn it through 4N33 it lights very weak. :-(
dumb question: how can that opto handle the current from a 5W torch? datasheet shows 100mA max is it just because it's very short pulses/low duty cycle?
could i just use a 2N2222 NPN transistor and a 1K resistor in replacement of an optocoupler? if not, are there any alternatives to using the optocoupler?
@r4nd0m417 it would be underpowered compared to using the power from the battery. You could try it and then compare no harm in testing it out. Just noting the SD card power also runs off the 3.3v, so you dont really want anything that drains to much power from the 3.3v gpio pin.
Hey can u maybe update the part list? It dosent work. Maybe you can update a video with new or other parts they are avayble? I really want to build one bute nothing will work. My 4n33 are black. mybe they are other optocoppler. could you help here?
No strain relief? No knot on the cable inside the 3D printed back? Like this, it seems quite fragile to carry on. You'll rip the cable from the flashlight or twist it so it shorts the coupler pins. I understand the video is for dummies, but I the length would cover also the whole print in my case 😊
Good point! I actually glued the Octocoupler and wires in but didn't cover it in the video. My original one used the remote switch assembly you can get with the spring wire. But I didn't want to get another one, and it's a lot more difficult to use and mod to work.
Hi, After watching your video I bought everything to do the project. I also bought the magnetic base that revolutionized the way I work with components. But there's a catch. This experiment with this flashlight doesn't work, up close I can control the TV but moving away about 10/15 meters it no longer transmits the signal to the TV. At this point the original remote control is more powerful with a normal ir led. In these days I'm going to try other methods with the 3w ir leds that I have aside. If you have any advice to give me, I am happy to listen to it. Thank you for your tutorial.
I have only tested mine on my TV from outside my house through the window around 25-30m away. I was able to turn the TV on and off with the IR sniper where the internal IR couldn't. I haven't tested it further as I couldn't walk further away. Are you using it on a TV you have saved the signal or using the universal TV mode?
@@rayj1988 I used the universal remote control. I have a normal samsung TV. I spent a few minutes on the various tests, in the next few days I will do more tests To understand the maximum distance that can be reached at night without interference from the sun. I'll keep you posted
@matteo.olivieri as the beam is much more focused with the IR sniper, you really need to aim at the tv. Using the universal tv function you have to hold and aim it for a while. So, it is best to test it with a saved signal.
love the videos man, but is nobody going to mention you're counting the pins on the IC wrong? you're using pin 4 and 5, not 6 and 5, the right side of a chip's pins are counted from the bottom. you're probably using the correct pins, but the numbering can be important when working off of schemamtics or tables. Now you know ;)
It all comes down to the frequency sensitivity of the receiver. Yes you may shine your IR farther if you get a 850nm led but the receiver might not be as sensitive at that wavelength effectively decimating the usable range of your sniper.
I have already made it, everything works perfectly. Thank you very much for your video. I used the same one as you. I have not tried the other one.@@rayj1988
It's hard to say exactly without seeing your full set up. Did you use the exact same parts as listed? Correct settings on the Flipper Zero for external IR?
@@insanity8692 may be dead optocoupler. And 4N33 has around 130 mA max current. The torch in video used around 700 mA. It will works only for 20% of nominal power.
Apart from the content, what I love the most from this video is that there is no BACKGROUND MUSIC which most of the YTV's have in common.
😂yeah it gets super corny
I love talking Sasquatch’s content but the background music in his videos is unbearable
Very nice video! The range of this setup (especially with a beam this focused) is necessarily a major improvement over any other available DIY "IR blaster" for the Flipper Zero. To anyone interested in building a GPIO IR blaster (with or without a torch/lens), I highly recommend using Osram IR LEDs, models SFH4544 (20-degree beam) or SFH4545 (10-degree beam), or a combination of the two + a basic NPN transistor. Exceptional results (30+ meters without a lens). They tolerate the 5V / 20mA pulse combo very well without any resistor, despite their 1.7V nominal forward voltage, at 100mA.
Could you please share the connections and parts to make one that combines the two IR LEDs? I am afraid I don't know much about designing circuits, but I can build based on a schematic :) ... your help would be very much appreciated.
@@chrismy hey. if you're only using 2 LEDs i suppose you can just put them in series with a 47Ω resistor and set the flipper to 5V (not sure what it outputs otherwise but it's probably not enough for the LEDs)
I’ve been having a 🎉 Osram does make amazing ir diodes
Your videos have inspired me to try some of these projects. Thank you!
Thank you so much to Ray, that help me with troubeshooting, I was not able to make it works, if this i formation is helpful, I was using awg 22 cable, and I think it causes some noise, I just replace cable and now it's working as expected.
Great tutorial!
This solves so many problems. Thank you!
Very professional and precise work.
Thank you!
couldn't find the 4 LED model you got there, but I did find a 1 LED one, also 5W. also been looking into using more high power ones (without the scope unless I can find a giant flashlight with a lens) but it's been tricky figuring out the switching. so far i've considered an optocoupler that switches a transistor that switches a mosfet that would finally be able to handle the power going through it...
Update: I connected the flipper to an optocoupler (pins 1,2). Pins 2,3 connected to battery + and gate on an irf3205. source to battery - and drain to battery +. Also, a 10K resistor between gate and battery -. This way, when the optocoupler is on, the gate gets 3.7(?)V and the LED turns on. However, it's extremely weak. Only reasons I can think of are, either the LED doesn't get to full brightness before the pulse is over, or the 3.#V isn't enough to fully 'open' the gate (though it should be enough, irf3205 is 2-4V gate threshold). I will try powering the optocoupler manually, if it's an LED response time issue it should turn fully on. If not, I'll have to take a closer look at the MOSFET
Update #2: I removed the optocoupler and connected the flipper directly to the MOSFET, it is way brighter now. This effectively removes the circuit isolation though. Will see how much of a scope it is, later ;D
Update #3: Well, it's not going to reach 300ft but it's definitely more powerful than the built-in LED. I'll try making my own board with 10W LED's at some point.
I am about to use a control board, a 60a esc with a small lipo and a potentiometer. The control board lets me arrange low pass filters in all kinds of fun ways. Potentially I’ll be able to get quite specific with the ir pulse beam and it will be screaming rather than a whisper. 😅
You Sir are the Man!
great video and a really cool project, I may do this myself! One comment though, optocouplers are essentially a small IR emitter and receiver. You should put a current limiting resistor somewhere in series with pins 1 or 2 to protect the emitter from possibly burning out. Great work!
you can also add a jack plug to another board you have and use a jack to connect the light to the board .
Sniper is a good job mate
Well done, mate!
Thank you!
That’s fire 🔥🔥🔥
Great tutorial, as always!
You're one of the few people on youtube who actually know how to solder properly, which makes me irrationally happy!
Can you perhaps demonstrate the range difference?
Thank you! I haven't tested it out much only on my TV from outside the house through the window, maybe 30 meters away which worked buy you have to aim it. I tried the interal IR from the same distance, and it didn't work, so it was better than the internal IR. But by how much exactly I can be sure. I might see if I can do a comparison of some sorts in the future.
My only recommendation is…sticky tacky. It’s amazing stuff, I use it on all my projects lol😂
Looks great, I’ve been wanting to do this for so long but I am a person who second guesses my self and would never be able to confidently try this on my own. I’m guessing I won’t be able to find publicly available ones? I would love to buy one from you if it would not be to much trouble.
The one I just built is ugly but it works! Thanks for the tutorial, next up will be the sub ghz. Thanks for the video!
Nice work! It always feels good to make something, and it works haha
Nice video sir! I would love to see a range test! :D
Hi Ray, can you tell us what is your camera/microscope? Thank you for this new amazing video ❤6 month ago I sold my Creality Cr20Pro...but. Xmas is close! 😊 I need a new one to do some parts/cases.
I want to do tutos like you for French people's can we talk in private about that ?
Im just using my Samsung S20. Hopefully, you get a new 3d printer for xmas they are so useful.
Hi Sir. How many amps Optocoupler 4N33 could manage? can I use an IR cob led (12V, 1.5A) instead an IR torch ? Thanks in advance.
No, max current for 4N33 around 130 mA. I've try to 100% repeat this with no luck. IR Torch as in this video used around 0.7 A. If we try to turn it through 4N33 it lights very weak. :-(
great vid. can you create basic ir blaster for flipper zero, wanted to build one but i need guide from prof. ty :)
dumb question: how can that opto handle the current from a 5W torch? datasheet shows 100mA max
is it just because it's very short pulses/low duty cycle?
Could you how is how to build this with an IR ring from a old camera?
could i just use a 2N2222 NPN transistor and a 1K resistor in replacement of an optocoupler? if not, are there any alternatives to using the optocoupler?
Thank you, Im the guy who asked you to make this video on reddit!
Can we bring the 5V of the flipper zero into the + side of the IR board?
5v might be too high for the IR torch as it runs off 3.7v, so you could burn out the IR LED/circuit.
@@rayj1988 so is the 3.3V fine ? Or will the led will be undervolted ?
@r4nd0m417 it would be underpowered compared to using the power from the battery. You could try it and then compare no harm in testing it out. Just noting the SD card power also runs off the 3.3v, so you dont really want anything that drains to much power from the 3.3v gpio pin.
Cool. Let me know if you start selling your own kits
can something similar be make to destroy the bioglass microchip?
Hey can u maybe update the part list? It dosent work. Maybe you can update a video with new or other parts they are avayble? I really want to build one bute nothing will work. My 4n33 are black. mybe they are other optocoppler. could you help here?
ty
No strain relief? No knot on the cable inside the 3D printed back? Like this, it seems quite fragile to carry on. You'll rip the cable from the flashlight or twist it so it shorts the coupler pins.
I understand the video is for dummies, but I the length would cover also the whole print in my case 😊
Good point! I actually glued the Octocoupler and wires in but didn't cover it in the video. My original one used the remote switch assembly you can get with the spring wire. But I didn't want to get another one, and it's a lot more difficult to use and mod to work.
Anyway to test the octocouppler? I have done the exact same thing you did and it is not working
Hi, After watching your video I bought everything to do the project. I also bought the magnetic base that revolutionized the way I work with components. But there's a catch. This experiment with this flashlight doesn't work, up close I can control the TV but moving away about 10/15 meters it no longer transmits the signal to the TV. At this point the original remote control is more powerful with a normal ir led. In these days I'm going to try other methods with the 3w ir leds that I have aside.
If you have any advice to give me, I am happy to listen to it. Thank you for your tutorial.
I have only tested mine on my TV from outside my house through the window around 25-30m away. I was able to turn the TV on and off with the IR sniper where the internal IR couldn't. I haven't tested it further as I couldn't walk further away. Are you using it on a TV you have saved the signal or using the universal TV mode?
@@rayj1988 I used the universal remote control. I have a normal samsung TV. I spent a few minutes on the various tests, in the next few days I will do more tests To understand the maximum distance that can be reached at night without interference from the sun. I'll keep you posted
@matteo.olivieri as the beam is much more focused with the IR sniper, you really need to aim at the tv. Using the universal tv function you have to hold and aim it for a while. So, it is best to test it with a saved signal.
How did you get that firmware on flipper zero where it’s sorted out
@@that_kid_nothin5075 Momentum Firmware
Do you have links to products you used in this video? Thanks!
They are all in the description
@@rayj1988 Do you have an email or a place I can contact you at with some questions?
@GooseLooseYT just ask here if others have the same questions it will be here for them to see also.
@@rayj1988 2 things a few of the links didn't work and also I have questions regarding a separate project and would like to talk privately
@GooseLooseYT Which links didn't work? Message me on reddit RJ01988
love the videos man, but is nobody going to mention you're counting the pins on the IC wrong? you're using pin 4 and 5, not 6 and 5, the right side of a chip's pins are counted from the bottom. you're probably using the correct pins, but the numbering can be important when working off of schemamtics or tables. Now you know ;)
Thanks good to know! I am by no means an expert in electronics, so always good to learn as I just make things for a bit of fun.
what make is the soldering board holding thingy ?
omnifixo
Why 940nm and not 850nm?
It seems that the 850 has more range according to the Aliexpres description
Most remotes use 940nm. You can try 850nm, but I'm not sure if it will work or not. If you try, keep us updated.
It all comes down to the frequency sensitivity of the receiver. Yes you may shine your IR farther if you get a 850nm led but the receiver might not be as sensitive at that wavelength effectively decimating the usable range of your sniper.
I have already made it, everything works perfectly. Thank you very much for your video. I used the same one as you. I have not tried the other one.@@rayj1988
Do you have the link to your helping hand?
omnifixo.com/ it is awesome, great purchase.
is it like an ir blaster?
I got a problem, It doesn't work, I checked everything more than twice. Could it be that optocoupler don't work?
It's hard to say exactly without seeing your full set up. Did you use the exact same parts as listed? Correct settings on the Flipper Zero for external IR?
@@rayj1988 yes I did. The optocoupler was just black but the one from your Link. I just don't get it what I did wrong
@@rayj1988 it have to less power I think, what Battery you use? I got 3,7v 18650 cell with 9800mah
@@insanity8692 may be dead optocoupler. And 4N33 has around 130 mA max current. The torch in video used around 700 mA. It will works only for 20% of nominal power.
What is the reason for not using a VCSEL LED? Is it not capable of this project?
I have tried using VCSEL but they didn't work. It does not send a valid signal.
Thank you for the prompt reply@@rayj1988. I will just order the one that you suggested then.
WHat exactly does this thing do?
Increases the IR range by using external flashlight instead of small internal LED.
you should sell it
Doesnt work for me idk how test optocoupler
Have you tried checking with your phone camera to see if the IR touch is flashing?
@@rayj1988 yes
@@rayj1988 is there other optocoupler but with 4 pins that i can use
@@rayj1988 yes 6 pin opto doesnt work i need 4 pin one but cant find it and if i find one voltage rating is 80V flip cant pover that opto
@@rayj1988 where i can find 4 pin opto that is copatable with fliper
can i pay u to make me one
Are you in Australia?
@@rayj1988 us
@@rayj1988 im in the us
@@rayj1988 the us
@@rayj1988 can u ship to us