Hey João, thanks for all the clarification and myth-busting. You made many good points, and I would offer only one or two more if you have the patience. Maceration (just like maturation) in the product bottle is real. There are weak non-covalent molecular interactions, but also a few actual chemical reactions still happening between reactive groups of components in the concentrate, and additional reactions with the ethanol in the diluted solution (acetal/hemiacetal formation). That is why serious manufacturers equilibrate the freshly compounded perfume concentrate for weeks to months before market release of a new batch, first without ethanol, and then diluted to final concentration. Clone brands often cannot afford the storage cost or the competitive disadvantage of waiting for months, and therefore ship freshly compounded fragrance, expecting it to slowly mature in the diluted state inside the product bottle. That is why many clone fragrances get better with time, even without aeration, but often only over the course of months. About EdP vs EdT projection, alcohol concentration itself plays very little role in the evaporation of the aromachemical molecules dissolved in it. The alcohol mainly enhances homogeneous dispersal of molecules on skin, but once it has evaporated (in a matter of seconds), what is left is the same amount of fragrance molecules that you would retain if you simply rubbed a thin film of the same amount of concentrate on your skin. I am not sure if you mentioned it explicitly, but different projection and longevity characteristics of EdP and EdT versions are usually designed by the perfumer through the actual composition of the fragrance, not just the concentration. Non-alcoholic perfume oils that are applied with a roller ball contain non-fragrant carrier oil (or viscous solvents) in addition to the fragrance concentrate, which will affect the evaporation characteristics of the perfume because they generally do not evaporate themselves and therefore bind the more volatile molecules inside the oil film. Perfume oils therefore tend to smell more muted than the pure fragrance concentrate when distributed on skin. Just to discuss one more myth: How do you imagine humidity outside of the bottle to affect the liquid inside? Would you argue that water vapour would enter the bottle through the seals of the bottle and the atomiser, together with the air that might enter through "temperature breathing"? I doubt water vapour would have much effect on the fragrance, even if small amounts of water entered the bottle in the course of multiple breathing events. There is a small percentage of water in all alcoholic perfumes anyway, simply because the 96% ethanol used contains around 4% water. Anyway, thanks for another great video from one of my most trusted fragrance reviewers. Keep up the good work!
To get those "compliments", people need to go out more, socialise more, dress up well, have a good grooming routine, be approachable, likeable with a decent personality. Oh, and it helps having a good physique too. If u fit those criterias, then you "MAY" get a random compliment, but mostly it will come from ur inner circle! Moral of the story - stop being an attention whore, and enjoy your fragrance for yourself!
Thank God Renaud Salmon explained the aging process at Amouage on Marc Gebauer'channel and how this process alters the smell. He went on to say that the process continues in customers' closets and is accelerated by the contact with oxygen. What good is it being picky on words (macération, maturation, aging, etc.) when the result is absolutely proven. Oxidation is but one of many phenomena altering fragrances. .
Misconception: a fridge is not humid, is very dry indeed. Also, humidity does not affect a perfume because it cannot enter into the fragrance, unless you leave your bottles opened.
Also, a wine fridge is able too keep fragrances on safe temperatures (14-18 Cº) unlike the regular fridge (2-6 Cº). Wine coolers can become very dry as well so it is advisable to leave the fragrances on closed plastic boxes to keep stable humidity levels.
One interesting fact I learned after starting working with materials, I actually prefer the smell of "iris" molecules than the natural orris butter, but both together, there's where the magic happen. But it's harder to create a great all "molecular" base fragrance since they can easily fell 2D. Nonetheless for me the magic is mix media, naturals have the beauty, the molecules exist to enhance that beauty. Just a slight thing, maceration do still continue after the fragrance is bottled, just like oxidation, aging etc, the thing is, a perfume changes a lot in maceration in the first 1/2/3 weeks, more if natural resins are present, but the biggest changes accour in the first week and second, at X time according to the perfumer it's the ideal point to sell a fragrance, after that the changes are small or should be small, sometimes they can change a lot better or worse, generally better, it's just not pratical and cost effective to macerate a fragrance for years sicne that also means affecting top notes, more cons then pros. Regarding some brands and the "let it rest for a month" what I suspect is basically time is money, and when a brand charges 30€ for a fragrance it probably means faster production time, meaning less maceration before selling, nonetheless it would still macerate within 2 weeks in the bottle regardless, nonethless I have experience that change either in cheap fragrances or very expensive ones so 😋
Keywords: "working with materials" Anyone who has mixed up a basic perfumer alcohol and fragrance oil will experience how perfumes will evolve during the ageing process. It confuses me that people pushback against this. It's just a reality that we've experienced first hand.
With your first point, most people are just using the wrong term: "maceration" instead of "oxidation" or "maturation" or "aging". From experience I can confirm that certain fragrances that I didn't care for initially started smelling better and more potent to me after maturation / oxidation / aging.
Like I said, the fragrances do change over time, which is called oxidation/maturation, which leads ultimately to its expiration, however until then, it can smell amazing as the heavier notes gain more boost over time.
@@bhuda_finger1004what this guy is saying is that maceration happens in the lab. If you hear people who promote certain fragrances thar they need to macerate, then yes, I would advise to avoid them, but ultimately it's up to you. Also, I said that fragrances do change over time, but that's oxidation/maturation.
@@hausacat There are some fragrances that I didn't initally like from a strictly smell standpoint but later learnt to like due to my evolving tastes and experience. My initial comment more specifically refers to the ones I found to be weak in projection and complexity, and a few years of maturation gave them more strength, longevity and depth. There could also be some overlap obviously, not entirely black or white. The effect of maturation is clearly more pronounced when it comes to clone Middle Eastern brands since it appears they skip or shortcut some steps during production to rush their product to market first since many clone brands are churning out clones of the same niche counterparts and getting to market first has financial and market share advantages. Maturation in this scenario, to a certain extent, rectifies lack of maceration or whatever on those brands' part.
Even though I am of strong belief that frarances are, generaly, strictly gender oriented I find some helpful words of wisdom in this video ! Well done !
I love fragrances for myself and never buy stuff for others, but the part you said strangers following to ask what you’re wearing or tell you you smell great. That happens to me countless times.
Thank you so much for this. Something i would like to add from my experience is that i was living in New Zealand when i started really wearing perfume in my late teens. The temperature is generally between 5 degrees to about 25 degrees in summer. So its generally always cool to cold for the majority of the year. Rains throughout the year. I found that most of chanel perfumes performed like a beast in cool weather and specially indoors. Fast forward i came to india in my 20s until now ( im 33,) and the very same perfume with the same bottles literally dissipated and died within 10 minutes . I live in mumbai - hot humid tropical climate year round. - 25 degrees to about 35 degrees with a very sweaty humid climate year round. Most of the perfumes performing fantasticially literally did the opposite here. Just evaporated. Now let me tell you something interesting. CK perfumes which barely performed in New Zealand weather, performs monsterously well lasting 8 to 12 hrs and projecting for the whole 6 to 8 hour wear for most of them. Lesson i learnt. Most french perfume houses which seeks out ingredients from local regions ( perfume oils) generally perform in that weather. Like say the jasmine and rose grown in that region will smell beautiful in that region. Hence did nothing in hot humid climates. But the cheaper synthetic ones perform well in hotter weather. Final observation. However much people want to defend reformulations , something needs to be said about the perfumes made in the 80s and 90s. The powerhouses like opium, antaeus, kouros performed monstrously in both indian hot and humid weather as well as cold dry temperatures. So i really dont know how that happened? And why its not possible now. I think a real destroyer of perfume longetivity is the banning of oakmoss which really made the base of many of the powerhouse beasts and i think they should really bring it back. Their thought process to replace most perfume bases with pachouli is really pathetic because i think pachouli is far more irritating to more people than oakmoss ever was and can stuff up many peoples sinuses and really irritate the olfactory senses. My guess is that good oakmoss is expensive and big companies ran with the idea of a few people having sensitive skin aa a reason to eliminate it and still charge the same price. While i have empathy for them i feel that people dont ban peanuts do they when people have a far worse allergic reaction to it. I think labelling a perfume to contain oakmoss should be a sufficient label. They can ban pachouli for all i care because it is so irritating and ruins most otherwise good formulations but i am not selfish and i know that people enjoy certain formulations containing it. I dont understand why people made a big deal on oakmoss, and the likes of it. I think people need to be kinder to let others enjoy the perfumes they like without ranting about minor irritations all the time. I guess companies couldnt have taken advantage of it to start eliminating many ingredients which made that perfume what it was in the first place. And while i agree that people are becoming a bit paranoid on the reformulation fear, it is by no stretch of the imagination a fact that many of the 80s and 90s perfumes have been castrated thanks to these banning of ingredients unnecessarily. And while you may argue that its dated etc, it should remain a choice for those who enjoy it. People need to stop getting offended so easily. They hardly realise that in taking offence to someones perfume calling it loud abrasive etc that they are being the offensive ones finding fault with everything and not letting people just enjoy theur own scent. Some people like to sit in the smell of their own sweat. I personally find that more offensive to others if it smells bad. Others like to smell good. It uplifts theur mood. What would you rather smell? Musky b.o or a perfume you may not like ? Lets just be kind and let the people who like their perfumes loud wear it and let those who like to stink , stink. Lets learn a little from the previous generation while they had maby flaws didnt make a big deal of such 1st world problems. Sorry this was a rant. But just needed to say it somewhere once atleast. Tired of all the people attacking anyone who likes to wear perfume that actually performs and lasts calling it loud, harsh, sysnthetic etc etc etc.
Storing fragrances in lock&lock type of container in a fridge (at around 5 degrees of Celsius) is in fact a great place for long-time storage.. Not a frequent in & out usage though (because of the temp diferential)
This comment is just a practice i do as im from the Philippines and most of my haul require shipping where the bottle/s are in transit for periods of time under situation or environments undisclosed to me. When the fragrance arrives, i just spray the bottle once to somewhat depressurize it from all the heat, bumps and unneccessary shakes the bottle went thru. I will try the fragrance again after it has been shelved/rested the same amount of time as it was in transit which is roughly 3 weeks to a month for me. Dont know what thats called or if thats a myth but i for one know that what i do is NOT MACERATION. For this reason, i agree with Joao that maceration is already achieved by the house/brand while aging of the fragrance just comes naturally and is something we cannot control; which makes it different from the concept of maceration. 1 is controlled by the house and the other is a natural phenomenon like life or aging which is inevitable but may be impacted by ingredients used and storage quality control
People get mad because it goes against All the nonsense they've repeated on RUclips. I commend him for doing this video regardless of the nonsense, he'll get.
Hello João, quick one: is it true (or myth) that one should not press or rub a fragrance on the skin? Asking because often I only need one spray to fragrance both wrists and, therefore, I spray one wrist, gently pad with the other one. Thanks and congrats on the awesome content
People say that rubbing your fragrance breaks down the molecules or that you'll mix up the top and base notes like they aren't already all mixed together in the bottle, which is kind of ridiculous. What can actually happen is that you might rub hard enough to warm up the fragrance and make some of the top notes evaporate quicker than they otherwise might, or you just spread the fragrance really thin which will also make it evaporate quicker as it's a smaller amount of fragrance spread over a larger surface area than it would be if you just sprayed one whole spray in a small area on each wrist. Don't forget, splash bottles of aftershave still exist and the only way to apply them is to literally rub it on. Maybe people think those splash bottles are only weaker because you rub it on rather than the truth that is they just have a lower concentration of perfume oils in them.
there's absolutely no problem in padding the fragrance, the "problem" which is not exactly a problem is rubbing, since it creates heat it acelerates the devolopment of said fragrance on skin, for example the top notes go by quicker and overall makes the fragrance last less by a small margin (there's no such things as "breaking" the molecules). It can be a good trick if one doesn't enjoy the first 30secondsa of a fragrance. Nonetheless, after saying this I personally prefer to enjoy the full scpectrum of the fragrance, so i avoid tapping, unless I accidently put too much. For example, regarding oil based fragrances it's a must to lightly spread the fragrance on skin
@@dantheman2907 exactly, that “argument” never made sense in my scientist brain as I know that molecules can’t be smashed that way. However, there could be a plausible reason behind the recommendation to not rub your fragrance, even if done gently. Thank you for sharing your thoughts on this topic ☺️
@@SamuelGustav I see… but then it would have to be a strong rubbing motion. I only gently pad to get fragrance on both wrist. Anyway, fragrance will always gently heat up in contact with our skin, even when gently sprayed on. Plus, some splash bottle require some gentle padding / rubbing to be applied so I guess perfumers thought of that very gentle application as OK. So I guess a gentle pad between wrists should be ok as long as we don’t rub it to the pint it heats up. Thank you for sharing your thoughts - very insightful ☺️
No problem at all to dab or rub your wrists. It takes a LOT of rubbing to generate any significant amount of heat, even a single degree, especially if there is a thin film of liquid perfume between your wrists. There is limited benefit in continuing to rub after the alcohol has evaporated, as most of the compounds will have been adsorbed to the surface of your skin already, but there is also no harm in rubbing until the skin feels and looks "dry". As mentioned above, "destroying the molecules" is a myth. There is no way anybody could generate enough mechanical (shearing) force at their skin surface to disrupt covalent bonds of organic molecules of a MW of
Hey. I then have a question.. I have a couple of frags, where i was told, that the older version was Beast Mode.. But the one i got wasnt.. At All.. But I left them alone for maybe 6 months.. And they where much stronger and lastede way longer.. And we Are not takling clones.. One of them was Tonnerre from beaufort.. When i got it, it was weak and didnt last.. Now it really does.. It has gone from meh to beast, just from sitting for 6 months.. I know nothing.. So im not trying to say i know why.. I just know it happened..
I recently bought Tom of findland which is discontinued, and the color was different than displayed. I did some research and I found out the color changed because of oxidation. Question is did the sell me a bad fragrance?
This was a GREAT VIDEO... I couldn't agree more with pretty much everything you said... In fact, you just saved me some $$ because I am one to admittedly get caught up on reformulations-- obviously with older stuff (especially with oakmoss) it can matter but... Post 2004? You're right... We needn't get obsessed with chasing "original" formulations... Thanks for the reminder!!!! ❤🎉
I think the biggest misconception nowadays is about longevity. Sure, beast mode is a thing, but I think anosmia is usually the culprit when people claim very poor performance. As an example, on fragrantica, 10% of voters claim that Dior Homme Parfum has poor to medium longevity. This is utterly ridiculous - I don't care about your skin chemistry, there is no way this frag lasts 3 hours on your skin. (Same story for Sauvage Elixir.)
I think it's a shame there is a push to completely stamp out the yin and yang of fragrances. Cynics will see this as a means to sell the same fragrances to more potential customers. However, there will always be those who at times desire to project femininity or masculinity through fragrance despite the attempt to blur the boundaries and get us to accept not even an infinite spectrum, but rather an indistinct blob. I say this as a female who has been a fan of wearing certain male marketed EDTs and colognes, alongside those marketed for women and (most notably in the niche world), non-gender specific scents for decades now. Part of the fun was the contrast of being feminine whilst wearing something distinctively non-girlie. So I see it as a Venn diagram of male and female interlocking circles with an expanding overlap. Wear whatever makes you happy. No permissions necessary.
It all depends on the ingredients used and how stable they are over time, but ultimately, yes, they will eventually go bad even if stored in a cool, dark place. It will just take much longer to go bad than it would if you left them out in the sunlight and heat, or in an area with fluctuating temperatures.
If you ever delve more into the process of perfumery you'll discover the following 2 things (among others). 1) You'll become less impressed with many perfumers as what you thought was masterful blending was just using certain ingredients. You'll start to notice them and when you once would say "I love this perfume" you'll start saying "I love this note". 2) You'll realise that the indescribable magic that perfumes can have nearly all comes from naturals. The easiest way to say it is that synthetics smell 2D but high quality naturals smell 3D and "alive". You're right that they can complement each other and I prefer mixed media myself but I've found that even though I don't plan it the percentages of naturals to synthetics seem to end up fairly similar after doing the maths for the formula. Also, once you get used to that "magic" you'll be very disappointed in fragrances that don't have it, especially if they're expensive. There's a reason certain perfumes can't be properly cloned, the more synthetic, the easier to clone accurately. It's also why older perfumes often have more to them than modern ones, they were allowed to use more naturals. Interesting video though, we don't all have to agree on everything 😊.
I can agree with this, but now I can also be equaly if not more impressed with some works done in perfumery, but generaly I can also see how cheap some "luxury" brands really are
@@SamuelGustav You make a fair point, it does read like I'm suggesting perfumers aren't really talented, which wasn't my intention. 😊 I still love perfume and am impressed by perfumers that still try to achieve what is actually possible too. Unfortunately, most releases including very popular ones don't really qualify, it's quite eye opening really. What kind of thing still captures your imagination? For me it's interesting combinations of notes, the way they play and "feel", rare materials and perfumes that tell a story in their wearing journey.
@@IQ25 I think is mostly brands problem, not the perfumers, they do what the brand wants basically, which is copy popular scent dna and huge profit margins. That's why I find most interesting things coming from small niche and indie houses, they don't follow trends and don't realese copy of a copy
@@SamuelGustav I imagine you're right, I wonder if perfumers make the stuff we'd like privately. Can't really blame the brands TBH, modern briefs do seem to sell and enough people are willing to pay huge prices for it so there's clearly a market
@@hausacat ruclips.net/video/-bSHrv-NkF4/видео.htmlsi=GWLG3UvMyBl4ZRSY She is a scientist and will provide a more informed explanation on what maceration is…
Maceration and reformulation 😂😂😂. I have over 100 bottles atm, i dont believe in any of those. Even it they change a formula, should i overpay the product because of it. Absolutely not, u dont even care for discontinued fragrances. Panty droppers 😂😂😂. You dont need compliments to know that you smell nice, looks and body talk are enough. Its dior poison not poisson. That means fish in french
![[#2024MAMA] ROSÉ (로제), Bruno Mars - APT. | Mnet 241122 방송](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/dgGqD28J6aQ/mqdefault.jpg)
Hey João, thanks for all the clarification and myth-busting. You made many good points, and I would offer only one or two more if you have the patience.
Maceration (just like maturation) in the product bottle is real. There are weak non-covalent molecular interactions, but also a few actual chemical reactions still happening between reactive groups of components in the concentrate, and additional reactions with the ethanol in the diluted solution (acetal/hemiacetal formation).
That is why serious manufacturers equilibrate the freshly compounded perfume concentrate for weeks to months before market release of a new batch, first without ethanol, and then diluted to final concentration.
Clone brands often cannot afford the storage cost or the competitive disadvantage of waiting for months, and therefore ship freshly compounded fragrance, expecting it to slowly mature in the diluted state inside the product bottle. That is why many clone fragrances get better with time, even without aeration, but often only over the course of months.
About EdP vs EdT projection, alcohol concentration itself plays very little role in the evaporation of the aromachemical molecules dissolved in it. The alcohol mainly enhances homogeneous dispersal of molecules on skin, but once it has evaporated (in a matter of seconds), what is left is the same amount of fragrance molecules that you would retain if you simply rubbed a thin film of the same amount of concentrate on your skin.
I am not sure if you mentioned it explicitly, but different projection and longevity characteristics of EdP and EdT versions are usually designed by the perfumer through the actual composition of the fragrance, not just the concentration.
Non-alcoholic perfume oils that are applied with a roller ball contain non-fragrant carrier oil (or viscous solvents) in addition to the fragrance concentrate, which will affect the evaporation characteristics of the perfume because they generally do not evaporate themselves and therefore bind the more volatile molecules inside the oil film. Perfume oils therefore tend to smell more muted than the pure fragrance concentrate when distributed on skin.
Just to discuss one more myth: How do you imagine humidity outside of the bottle to affect the liquid inside? Would you argue that water vapour would enter the bottle through the seals of the bottle and the atomiser, together with the air that might enter through "temperature breathing"? I doubt water vapour would have much effect on the fragrance, even if small amounts of water entered the bottle in the course of multiple breathing events. There is a small percentage of water in all alcoholic perfumes anyway, simply because the 96% ethanol used contains around 4% water.
Anyway, thanks for another great video from one of my most trusted fragrance reviewers. Keep up the good work!
This is the most detailed and plausable explanation I've heard to date. Thnx.
To get those "compliments", people need to go out more, socialise more, dress up well, have a good grooming routine, be approachable, likeable with a decent personality. Oh, and it helps having a good physique too. If u fit those criterias, then you "MAY" get a random compliment, but mostly it will come from ur inner circle!
Moral of the story - stop being an attention whore, and enjoy your fragrance for yourself!
Haha. Loved the moral of the story.
Thank God Renaud Salmon explained the aging process at Amouage on Marc Gebauer'channel and how this process alters the smell. He went on to say that the process continues in customers' closets and is accelerated by the contact with oxygen.
What good is it being picky on words (macération, maturation, aging, etc.) when the result is absolutely proven.
Oxidation is but one of many phenomena altering fragrances. .
Misconception: a fridge is not humid, is very dry indeed. Also, humidity does not affect a perfume because it cannot enter into the fragrance, unless you leave your bottles opened.
Also, a wine fridge is able too keep fragrances on safe temperatures (14-18 Cº) unlike the regular fridge (2-6 Cº). Wine coolers can become very dry as well so it is advisable to leave the fragrances on closed plastic boxes to keep stable humidity levels.
I feel like YTubers mistakenly use the term maceration when they mean maturation or oxidation. Good video. Thank you.
Thank you! Happy to know that you enjoyed the video 😊🙏
It's just a myth pedaled on RUclips.
One interesting fact I learned after starting working with materials, I actually prefer the smell of "iris" molecules than the natural orris butter, but both together, there's where the magic happen. But it's harder to create a great all "molecular" base fragrance since they can easily fell 2D. Nonetheless for me the magic is mix media, naturals have the beauty, the molecules exist to enhance that beauty. Just a slight thing, maceration do still continue after the fragrance is bottled, just like oxidation, aging etc, the thing is, a perfume changes a lot in maceration in the first 1/2/3 weeks, more if natural resins are present, but the biggest changes accour in the first week and second, at X time according to the perfumer it's the ideal point to sell a fragrance, after that the changes are small or should be small, sometimes they can change a lot better or worse, generally better, it's just not pratical and cost effective to macerate a fragrance for years sicne that also means affecting top notes, more cons then pros. Regarding some brands and the "let it rest for a month" what I suspect is basically time is money, and when a brand charges 30€ for a fragrance it probably means faster production time, meaning less maceration before selling, nonetheless it would still macerate within 2 weeks in the bottle regardless, nonethless I have experience that change either in cheap fragrances or very expensive ones so 😋
Keywords: "working with materials"
Anyone who has mixed up a basic perfumer alcohol and fragrance oil will experience how perfumes will evolve during the ageing process. It confuses me that people pushback against this.
It's just a reality that we've experienced first hand.
With your first point, most people are just using the wrong term: "maceration" instead of "oxidation" or "maturation" or "aging". From experience I can confirm that certain fragrances that I didn't care for initially started smelling better and more potent to me after maturation / oxidation / aging.
According to this guy you should have avoided those fragrances
Like I said, the fragrances do change over time, which is called oxidation/maturation, which leads ultimately to its expiration, however until then, it can smell amazing as the heavier notes gain more boost over time.
@@bhuda_finger1004what this guy is saying is that maceration happens in the lab. If you hear people who promote certain fragrances thar they need to macerate, then yes, I would advise to avoid them, but ultimately it's up to you.
Also, I said that fragrances do change over time, but that's oxidation/maturation.
Could it also be a possibility that your taste evolved in that space of time?
@@hausacat There are some fragrances that I didn't initally like from a strictly smell standpoint but later learnt to like due to my evolving tastes and experience. My initial comment more specifically refers to the ones I found to be weak in projection and complexity, and a few years of maturation gave them more strength, longevity and depth. There could also be some overlap obviously, not entirely black or white.
The effect of maturation is clearly more pronounced when it comes to clone Middle Eastern brands since it appears they skip or shortcut some steps during production to rush their product to market first since many clone brands are churning out clones of the same niche counterparts and getting to market first has financial and market share advantages. Maturation in this scenario, to a certain extent, rectifies lack of maceration or whatever on those brands' part.
Even though I am of strong belief that frarances are, generaly, strictly gender oriented I find some helpful words of wisdom in this video ! Well done !
I love fragrances for myself and never buy stuff for others, but the part you said strangers following to ask what you’re wearing or tell you you smell great. That happens to me countless times.
Thank you so much for this. Something i would like to add from my experience is that i was living in New Zealand when i started really wearing perfume in my late teens. The temperature is generally between 5 degrees to about 25 degrees in summer. So its generally always cool to cold for the majority of the year. Rains throughout the year. I found that most of chanel perfumes performed like a beast in cool weather and specially indoors. Fast forward i came to india in my 20s until now ( im 33,) and the very same perfume with the same bottles literally dissipated and died within 10 minutes . I live in mumbai - hot humid tropical climate year round. - 25 degrees to about 35 degrees with a very sweaty humid climate year round. Most of the perfumes performing fantasticially literally did the opposite here. Just evaporated. Now let me tell you something interesting. CK perfumes which barely performed in New Zealand weather, performs monsterously well lasting 8 to 12 hrs and projecting for the whole 6 to 8 hour wear for most of them. Lesson i learnt. Most french perfume houses which seeks out ingredients from local regions ( perfume oils) generally perform in that weather. Like say the jasmine and rose grown in that region will smell beautiful in that region. Hence did nothing in hot humid climates. But the cheaper synthetic ones perform well in hotter weather.
Final observation. However much people want to defend reformulations , something needs to be said about the perfumes made in the 80s and 90s. The powerhouses like opium, antaeus, kouros performed monstrously in both indian hot and humid weather as well as cold dry temperatures. So i really dont know how that happened? And why its not possible now. I think a real destroyer of perfume longetivity is the banning of oakmoss which really made the base of many of the powerhouse beasts and i think they should really bring it back. Their thought process to replace most perfume bases with pachouli is really pathetic because i think pachouli is far more irritating to more people than oakmoss ever was and can stuff up many peoples sinuses and really irritate the olfactory senses. My guess is that good oakmoss is expensive and big companies ran with the idea of a few people having sensitive skin aa a reason to eliminate it and still charge the same price. While i have empathy for them i feel that people dont ban peanuts do they when people have a far worse allergic reaction to it. I think labelling a perfume to contain oakmoss should be a sufficient label. They can ban pachouli for all i care because it is so irritating and ruins most otherwise good formulations but i am not selfish and i know that people enjoy certain formulations containing it. I dont understand why people made a big deal on oakmoss, and the likes of it. I think people need to be kinder to let others enjoy the perfumes they like without ranting about minor irritations all the time. I guess companies couldnt have taken advantage of it to start eliminating many ingredients which made that perfume what it was in the first place. And while i agree that people are becoming a bit paranoid on the reformulation fear, it is by no stretch of the imagination a fact that many of the 80s and 90s perfumes have been castrated thanks to these banning of ingredients unnecessarily. And while you may argue that its dated etc, it should remain a choice for those who enjoy it. People need to stop getting offended so easily. They hardly realise that in taking offence to someones perfume calling it loud abrasive etc that they are being the offensive ones finding fault with everything and not letting people just enjoy theur own scent. Some people like to sit in the smell of their own sweat. I personally find that more offensive to others if it smells bad. Others like to smell good. It uplifts theur mood. What would you rather smell? Musky b.o or a perfume you may not like ?
Lets just be kind and let the people who like their perfumes loud wear it and let those who like to stink , stink. Lets learn a little from the previous generation while they had maby flaws didnt make a big deal of such 1st world problems.
Sorry this was a rant. But just needed to say it somewhere once atleast. Tired of all the people attacking anyone who likes to wear perfume that actually performs and lasts calling it loud, harsh, sysnthetic etc etc etc.
100% agree with you-personality + perfume
Storing fragrances in lock&lock type of container in a fridge (at around 5 degrees of Celsius) is in fact a great place for long-time storage.. Not a frequent in & out usage though (because of the temp diferential)
This comment is just a practice i do as im from the Philippines and most of my haul require shipping where the bottle/s are in transit for periods of time under situation or environments undisclosed to me. When the fragrance arrives, i just spray the bottle once to somewhat depressurize it from all the heat, bumps and unneccessary shakes the bottle went thru. I will try the fragrance again after it has been shelved/rested the same amount of time as it was in transit which is roughly 3 weeks to a month for me. Dont know what thats called or if thats a myth but i for one know that what i do is NOT MACERATION.
For this reason, i agree with Joao that maceration is already achieved by the house/brand while aging of the fragrance just comes naturally and is something we cannot control; which makes it different from the concept of maceration. 1 is controlled by the house and the other is a natural phenomenon like life or aging which is inevitable but may be impacted by ingredients used and storage quality control
Thank you for this kind of content, so informational, so interesting to know😊
Thank you so much! Happy to know that you enjoyed the video 🤗
The perfume itself is exposed to oxygen during the bottling process. Spraying the atomizer is a moot point.
The dark side of sourcing natural oud, civet, musk, castoreum, ambergris etc...makes synthetic seem not so bad.
THE TRUTH
Can we handle the truth?! 😂
@@ScentedMoments absolutely not!
People get mad because it goes against All the nonsense they've repeated on RUclips. I commend him for doing this video regardless of the nonsense, he'll get.
Hello João, quick one: is it true (or myth) that one should not press or rub a fragrance on the skin? Asking because often I only need one spray to fragrance both wrists and, therefore, I spray one wrist, gently pad with the other one. Thanks and congrats on the awesome content
People say that rubbing your fragrance breaks down the molecules or that you'll mix up the top and base notes like they aren't already all mixed together in the bottle, which is kind of ridiculous.
What can actually happen is that you might rub hard enough to warm up the fragrance and make some of the top notes evaporate quicker than they otherwise might, or you just spread the fragrance really thin which will also make it evaporate quicker as it's a smaller amount of fragrance spread over a larger surface area than it would be if you just sprayed one whole spray in a small area on each wrist.
Don't forget, splash bottles of aftershave still exist and the only way to apply them is to literally rub it on. Maybe people think those splash bottles are only weaker because you rub it on rather than the truth that is they just have a lower concentration of perfume oils in them.
there's absolutely no problem in padding the fragrance, the "problem" which is not exactly a problem is rubbing, since it creates heat it acelerates the devolopment of said fragrance on skin, for example the top notes go by quicker and overall makes the fragrance last less by a small margin (there's no such things as "breaking" the molecules). It can be a good trick if one doesn't enjoy the first 30secondsa of a fragrance. Nonetheless, after saying this I personally prefer to enjoy the full scpectrum of the fragrance, so i avoid tapping, unless I accidently put too much. For example, regarding oil based fragrances it's a must to lightly spread the fragrance on skin
@@dantheman2907 exactly, that “argument” never made sense in my scientist brain as I know that molecules can’t be smashed that way. However, there could be a plausible reason behind the recommendation to not rub your fragrance, even if done gently. Thank you for sharing your thoughts on this topic ☺️
@@SamuelGustav I see… but then it would have to be a strong rubbing motion. I only gently pad to get fragrance on both wrist. Anyway, fragrance will always gently heat up in contact with our skin, even when gently sprayed on. Plus, some splash bottle require some gentle padding / rubbing to be applied so I guess perfumers thought of that very gentle application as OK. So I guess a gentle pad between wrists should be ok as long as we don’t rub it to the pint it heats up. Thank you for sharing your thoughts - very insightful ☺️
No problem at all to dab or rub your wrists. It takes a LOT of rubbing to generate any significant amount of heat, even a single degree, especially if there is a thin film of liquid perfume between your wrists. There is limited benefit in continuing to rub after the alcohol has evaporated, as most of the compounds will have been adsorbed to the surface of your skin already, but there is also no harm in rubbing until the skin feels and looks "dry".
As mentioned above, "destroying the molecules" is a myth. There is no way anybody could generate enough mechanical (shearing) force at their skin surface to disrupt covalent bonds of organic molecules of a MW of
Hey.
I then have a question..
I have a couple of frags, where i was told, that the older version was Beast Mode.. But the one i got wasnt.. At All.. But I left them alone for maybe 6 months.. And they where much stronger and lastede way longer..
And we Are not takling clones..
One of them was Tonnerre from beaufort.. When i got it, it was weak and didnt last.. Now it really does.. It has gone from meh to beast, just from sitting for 6 months..
I know nothing.. So im not trying to say i know why.. I just know it happened..
Preach!!! I enjoy and very much appreciate this video 😊
Thank you so much! Happy to know that you enjoyed the video 😊🙏
I recently bought Tom of findland which is discontinued, and the color was different than displayed. I did some research and I found out the color changed because of oxidation. Question is did the sell me a bad fragrance?
Joao Lima I am so you talked about this Subject my friend ✌🏾
Happy to know that you enjoyed the video, my friend 😊
Really well curated and spot on video. Facts on facts!!!!
Thank you! 😊🙏
This was a GREAT VIDEO... I couldn't agree more with pretty much everything you said... In fact, you just saved me some $$ because I am one to admittedly get caught up on reformulations-- obviously with older stuff (especially with oakmoss) it can matter but... Post 2004? You're right... We needn't get obsessed with chasing "original" formulations... Thanks for the reminder!!!! ❤🎉
I love your take. Outstanding video
I think the biggest misconception nowadays is about longevity. Sure, beast mode is a thing, but I think anosmia is usually the culprit when people claim very poor performance. As an example, on fragrantica, 10% of voters claim that Dior Homme Parfum has poor to medium longevity. This is utterly ridiculous - I don't care about your skin chemistry, there is no way this frag lasts 3 hours on your skin. (Same story for Sauvage Elixir.)
Good talk Jo !
Thank you, glad you enjoyed the video 😊
Have you tried the new christian provenzano collection? I love the palazzo one it smells like opulent soap from a luxurious bath house
Excellent discussion!
I think it's a shame there is a push to completely stamp out the yin and yang of fragrances. Cynics will see this as a means to sell the same fragrances to more potential customers.
However, there will always be those who at times desire to project femininity or masculinity through fragrance despite the attempt to blur the boundaries and get us to accept not even an infinite spectrum, but rather an indistinct blob.
I say this as a female who has been a fan of wearing certain male marketed EDTs and colognes, alongside those marketed for women and (most notably in the niche world), non-gender specific scents for decades now. Part of the fun was the contrast of being feminine whilst wearing something distinctively non-girlie.
So I see it as a Venn diagram of male and female interlocking circles with an expanding overlap.
Wear whatever makes you happy.
No permissions necessary.
Do fragrances go bad if you keep them in a cool and dark place ? Thank you!
It all depends on the ingredients used and how stable they are over time, but ultimately, yes, they will eventually go bad even if stored in a cool, dark place. It will just take much longer to go bad than it would if you left them out in the sunlight and heat, or in an area with fluctuating temperatures.
@@dantheman2907 Thank you! Cheers!
Great video. At least i know how to pronounce Dior Poison now 😅
If you ever delve more into the process of perfumery you'll discover the following 2 things (among others).
1) You'll become less impressed with many perfumers as what you thought was masterful blending was just using certain ingredients. You'll start to notice them and when you once would say "I love this perfume" you'll start saying "I love this note".
2) You'll realise that the indescribable magic that perfumes can have nearly all comes from naturals. The easiest way to say it is that synthetics smell 2D but high quality naturals smell 3D and "alive".
You're right that they can complement each other and I prefer mixed media myself but I've found that even though I don't plan it the percentages of naturals to synthetics seem to end up fairly similar after doing the maths for the formula.
Also, once you get used to that "magic" you'll be very disappointed in fragrances that don't have it, especially if they're expensive.
There's a reason certain perfumes can't be properly cloned, the more synthetic, the easier to clone accurately.
It's also why older perfumes often have more to them than modern ones, they were allowed to use more naturals.
Interesting video though, we don't all have to agree on everything 😊.
I can agree with this, but now I can also be equaly if not more impressed with some works done in perfumery, but generaly I can also see how cheap some "luxury" brands really are
@@SamuelGustav You make a fair point, it does read like I'm suggesting perfumers aren't really talented, which wasn't my intention. 😊
I still love perfume and am impressed by perfumers that still try to achieve what is actually possible too.
Unfortunately, most releases including very popular ones don't really qualify, it's quite eye opening really.
What kind of thing still captures your imagination? For me it's interesting combinations of notes, the way they play and "feel", rare materials and perfumes that tell a story in their wearing journey.
@@IQ25 I think is mostly brands problem, not the perfumers, they do what the brand wants basically, which is copy popular scent dna and huge profit margins. That's why I find most interesting things coming from small niche and indie houses, they don't follow trends and don't realese copy of a copy
@@SamuelGustav I imagine you're right, I wonder if perfumers make the stuff we'd like privately.
Can't really blame the brands TBH, modern briefs do seem to sell and enough people are willing to pay huge prices for it so there's clearly a market
Maturation is not a myth, it is a normal process where natural ingredients change with time. It is different from oxidation.
The myth discussed was "maceration" after it's dispatched from the manufacturers.
@@hausacat ruclips.net/video/-bSHrv-NkF4/видео.htmlsi=GWLG3UvMyBl4ZRSY She is a scientist and will provide a more informed explanation on what maceration is…
great content
Thank you! Happy to know that you enjoyed the video 😊
Yes it's fragrances culture 👌
Thank you! 😁🙏
Like like like like like👍 👌 💛
Thank you so much, really appreciate that 😊🙏
Nice video! Mostvof what you said, " I kinda knew." Panty dropper..lol..its a joke
Thank you! I'm happy to know that you enjoyed the video 😊
Ima tell u right now. La nuit de l’homme edt was RUINED
Of course, like I said, there are cases where fragrances were completely watered down, but that's not always the case
Maceration and reformulation 😂😂😂. I have over 100 bottles atm, i dont believe in any of those. Even it they change a formula, should i overpay the product because of it. Absolutely not, u dont even care for discontinued fragrances. Panty droppers 😂😂😂. You dont need compliments to know that you smell nice, looks and body talk are enough. Its dior poison not poisson. That means fish in french